Hi folks, Happy new year!! We hope 2022 has been kind to you all so far! The comments are rolling in thick and fast on this one which is soooo appreciated as Lou is already getting some great tips! We may not be able to reply to every comment this week as we normally do as Lou is getting ready to go away and as most of you know I probably won’t understand half of them anyway lol!! Please know we will read every single one and every comment, tip, trick and just general banter is always welcome. As always, thank you all so much for watching and we will see you all soon, happy Sunday!! 😀😀
Bang a couple of pc fans behind the numberplate and space the plate out for airflow. They should give you enough airflow to stop it condensing low down. Did it on my transit a few years ago🤟
In emergency you can Put a heat gun in the intake after the filter and try starting also you will want to look at getting a heating blanket for the fuel tank as the diesel turn to jelly the colder it gets
Talk about a total redesign Louise and Emily. One thing I will add is a tilting mechanism to your solar panel, I've got friends way up north and it makes a megger difference in winter. Look forward to watching all the updates and another Fanny 😀
Hi girls, Just a couple of thoughts for your consideration. As a qualified plumber of more than 50 years, I can tell you that a few millimetres of lagging on your pipes, won't protect from more than a light frost - I was an apprentice during the great freeze of 1963, and I can remember pipes freezing, that were buried 2 and a half feet, (that's about 76cm), BELOW ground! Some of the bigger coachbuilt continental MoHos have a heated double floor, which houses tanks and pipes, to overcome the problem. Obviously you cannot do this with a PVC, so maybe you'll have to drain your underslung tanks and carry a 10 litre can in the garage. Regarding your heater, we also have a Planar in our Sprinter, and it really is a good bit of kit. However the thermostat that came with it, was not very flexible - all or nothing. Autoterm recently brought out a new control unit, which gives very fine control, allows you to set a temperature, which, once reached, switches the heater off, until the temperature drops by a degree or so, then restarts the heater. It's about 120 quid, but we'll worth it. That being the case, you could perhaps run a duct back under your bed, and maintain a gentle heat to help with the condensation. You would of course, need to put a tee piece in it so you could control air to either your garage, or your living area. We had the same problems as you, with a VW about 3 or 4 years ago - white vapour coming out of the exhaust - we limped home with several stops to top up the rad. Anyway, long story short, nobody could tell me what was wrong with it, so I did what I would have done 30 years ago, I put leak sealant in the rad. It cured it and stayed cured until the day I sold it! I don't go anywhere now, without a little can of sealant in the toolbox. K-Seal is what I used and I thoroughly recommend it. www.amazon.co.uk/K-Seal-DE5501D-Universal-Radiator-Sealant/dp/B07D1FSP74/ref=sr_1_5?crid=1XQMMYGXZBI6F&keywords=K+seal&qid=1641935530&sprefix=k+seal%2Caps%2C124&sr=8-5 We really enjoy your videos and look forward to them coming out. Oh and finally, when you refit, build in a proper loo - you won't regret it - AJ will happy on your bed! Best of luck, Pete and Anne.
Engine: Block heater. Water tank: blanket (or DIY polystyrene) and heater probe, recirc. pump. Condensation: it’s all about managing the humidity in your van. Open your fwd vent fan slightly, power your aft fan to exhaust, and crank up your heater. You want to increase the ventilation airflow only enough to exchange the air inside the van. Remember: you’re actually drawing in relatively dry air at -15C, it’s the breathing and cooking that’s increasing the humidity. Hand brakes: leave them the f**k alone, it’s a matter of when, not if, their cables will freeze. Greetings from Eastern Canada (the warmer part) Temperature this morning -25C
Fit a good brand glowplugs if in doubt. For preheating the engine fit a Webasto Thermotop heater. It not only helps to start the engine but also reduces the wear on it from cold starts. And you will have a warm cabin much faster. Fit the biggest starter battery and insulate it (or divert a small amount of warm air from the diesel air heater to it). A cold battery looses a lot of the cranking power. Fit uprated suspension (for example Bilstein) and air suspension is also a good way to go (but expensive) but only helps at the rear. Never use the bandbrake in freezing conditions. The cable tend to freeze which will prevent the hand brake fro releasing. Just leave it in gear and if neccessary chock the wheels. Route ducting from the air heater to the rear storage under the bed and leave a gap between the bed and the doors so the air can rise up preventing condensation issues. The added benefit is that the bed is also warm. Don't know if you have an external T-sensor fitted to the air heater (probably not) but that works way better in regulating the temperature then using the one inside the air heater. Place it near to where you want to have the set temperature (sitting area / bed?). The only good solution for the drinking water and waste water under the van is to move them inside. Alternatively you can add a small tank inside (30L) for using when it is freezing (simple 3-way valve to switch from inside tank to outside tank) and make sure the underslung tank is empty. If it freezes it is likely to burst some pipes or fittings. Leave the gray water tank open in freezing conditions. Trying to prevent them from freezing @-15 or -20°C is nearly impossible and would require a lot of energy from the batteries. Especially in winter conditions the solar will have a hard time charging the batteries.
As a keen Ukulele player was very pleased to see your Uke in a nice warm place .... Good to see ... And can we see a bit more Uke playing in Fanny in the future .... Very informative video ... 👍👍👍
If European travel is a thing you will do a lot of ( and why not), then a european van would come equipped with all these changes, including the steering wheel being on the correct side. A new Ford Transit supplied here has -20 start, snow tyres, and ac for the very hot summers, plus all the fluids are rated. That GB sticker and plate stands out like a sore thumb, parked up, or travelling. Stay grey.
So your problem with getting under the van ? First get prepared ,buy a crawler board ( the kind that mechanics use to get under a car) get all your pipe insulation and heater blankets ready together with some strong large cable ties. Accidently knock your other half (the small person) over this is best done onto a soft surface ie carpeted area before she can get up insert crawler board under her and quickly cable tie here to the board, push outside insert under the van and when she stops screaming and swearing get here to insulate the pipework and tanks !!!😁 JOB DONE .p.s.totally love you two.
Hi Ladies, glad to see your still ok and Louise is still up for a challenge. I'll keep this as brief as I can as to what we installed to winterize our 6m MWB VW Crafter three years ago and why. If one point helps then job done. 1. If you are running ducting from your diesel heater to the rear, consider sleeving the ducting with Webasto duct insulation 60mm AND sleeve that with 100mm it will stop you losing a lot of heat over that length behind the cupboards allowing the van to heat up quicker. It will still be warm enough behind the panels to help stop any pipes from freezing. 2. Keep water pipes as short as possible then any self regulating heating wire you run alongside it will be shorter and hence use less electric. 3. Bring your fresh water tank inside if you can. Our van is only 6m and our Barratt tank is 100 litres but we still squeezed it in the rear (oops! sorry for the pun, blush). So much less stressful (But we still installed 2 x 15w heating pads and a 30w probe on a thermostatic switch just in case!) 4. Don't worry about the waste tank, leave that under, just have the facility to divert the drain pipe into a bucket as and when needed. Works for us even on 2 x 150A non- Lithium AGM batteries. (Ours Lead Carbon). Worst case so far was in Sweden at -16C in Jan 2020. Apart from a frozen waste tank which thawed out no damage were still rolling. Good luck with the Mods and understand if you don,t reply. I'm sure you're swamped. Too much choice.
It is always lovely to listen to you and Emily. Nice to hear AJ is recovering. But! Remember to buy PTFE based lock oil. PTFE prevents locks from freezing among other things. From what i could see the tires you had looks like friction tires. Nothing wrong with those if you are living where you do or on the continent. But if you go to northern scandinavia you need studed winter tires, there are a law on that. Like, Kumho WinterCraft ICE WI31 or any similar tire from any other brand. I advice you to do some research on what tires you should have where you´r going. They are also better to handle black ice. But make sure you have PTFE based lock oil with you. It can help you alot. I live in northern sweden where it gets around -25 C sometimes -35 C in the winter, getting locked out is the last thing you want to be.
One point on second solar panel, it isn't completely useless when the two are in series and with mppt charge controller, I have two 300w panels set like this. The reason is that when the sun is too weak with one panel or two but in parallel the voltage is still as with one panel and can easy get below 14v, if the two or more panels are in series the voltage will double; basically when one panel will make only 10volts two will be 20 so you can still charge properly. This is particularly important the more north you go as the sun angle gets lower and lower. In my case my panels are 36 volts so both come to 72, this helps me extract every last bit of sun power possible. Next things is to also make it possible for the panels to tilt, I have that in my future upgrades list, and in the nordic countries this is more or less a must! I work full time from the van (living in it full time) and even run a 3d printer (not so much in the winter though) and usually i have to use dc charger while driving 8-10 times per year and I have never charged from the mains except for when I was testing the electrical system.
If you do go down the rip it all out route, weigh everything. I'm sure your aware of maximum gross weight, the problem with most van conversions is once everything is in you are over mgw. If my memory serves me well relay, boxer and ducato are 2400kg meaning an empty van has a max load capacity of 800kg which isn't a full pallet of cement, 3/4 of a pack of 2.4m 2x4 One of the ways to reduce weight is to make functional areas out of foam and fibreglass its extremely strong and light weight compared to the same wood or metal construction. So areas like the bed and storage. This intern reduces the weight over the rear of the vehicle so also the load on the springs. springs are only half the suspension and you have van dampers and not motor home dampers the suspension fluid will be heavier in the motor home dampers as they are of a different design internally having a fast and slow rebound rate. This does not in anyway make the ride perfect but it does make things a lot less dramatic as I'm sure the odd cuppa has been spilled. Food for thought regards harryb
7:30 lifting van You can drive it onto blocks. It's easier if they're different lengths so you're only lifting one wheel at a time, you can also put short blocks on top of long ones to get multiple heights.
All the stuff I've looked at seems to point in the direction of underfloor heating - but then you get the additional cost of something like a Wabasco. The major difference between a blower and the floor heating, with the former you lose all the warmth as soon as you open the door. The latter heats up everything, and that heat is then retained and the van is almost instantly warm again. But then everyone's a bloody expert ;)
Come to think of it - with the long list of modifications, it is looking more and more like re-doing the entire van, instead of just applying a few upgrades. Have you considered instead just buying another van, doing it up from the beginning with winter vanlife in mind - maybe even tweaking the layout and finding a way to put the water tanks inside, which would save you a lot of power usage in the depth of winter? Then, when the new van is ready, you can just sell the current one as it is. No need to throw away so much good work and materials you've already invested in this one. And you would constantly have a van ready to use throughout the process - so less stress. Just an idea.
Hi ladies, to reduce condensation in the van you need to get the diesel heater to draw sum fresh air in to get better circulation, as we breathe out half a pint of water overnight. If you have run a car in the winter with the heater on full with it set to recycled are you will see the windows steam up which is why you need to have recycled air. Keeping the roof vent but there needs to go out somewhere as in a car has outlet vents usually in the boat,
Have a look round caravan/motorhome dealers to see how things are fitted on the inside. What things are used to keep the weight down, check the layout. You could possibly fit a shower/toilet unit and not lose that much space.
the only advice i can give you is to have fun and give the little one a hug to stay sane whilst doing the rebuild . looking fwd to seeing what you get up to and how it turns out . big hugs from down under
8:23 glow plugs They take a lot of current so corroded wires are often the problem not the glowplugs themselves. Try cleaning the contacts with sandpaper & then a smear of CoppaSlip to slow new corrosion but you're quite likely to need new wires.
Land Rover use Webasto heaters to preheat the engine and cabin. Why don't you take a third outlet forward into the engine bay from your current heater. The best insulation for vehicles is Dacron insulation, you use spray contact adhesive to afix to the bulkhead. Saves weight and works really well keeping you warm/cold. One of the reasons your van gets really cold in the winter is due to it being white. But, it also helps to keep it cooler in the summer as white reflects the sun away. You could also wrap the van in a different colour for winter! Solar, 20W is 20W you should always over spec for your solar. Just missed you in Germany as I was also heading back to the UK.
Hi Lou 🙂 Just a thought regarding your floor replacement: you could use a multi-tool with a vibrating head and fine-tooth saw head to neatly cut the floor around the outside and inside of your cabinets. I don't know if this could work, but may be an option. I know the worktops would then be ½' higher in effect than they are now, but even little people (?) should be ok with that. Love watching your stuff, and, as others have commented, your cinematography is superb. All the best.
Here in Sweden we have 2 sorts of engine heaters: -220 volt engine heaters that you need to plug in or -webasto diesel/gasoline burning heaters that don't need to be plugged in. My Peugeot boxer has a webasto engine heater that heats the coolant and at the same time it heats the inside of the van. It starts on a timer or by pushing the start button. On my Audi Q5 it starts by remote control.
Knaus's solution for winterising underslung tanks is an insulated box which has blown air heating sent into it which you can control by opening or closing a flap. You have a diesel heater in the van which you could use for this. Possibly build a plywood box (insulated with armorall lagging) and then run vent pipes to the box. Rather than a heating element which will not survive really low temps. Tank blanket is another possibilty.
You need to have a chat with Ash he as been there and done it , brakes will freeze in really cold weather even your diesel can freeze . If you get some 16mm sticks to hold the units up while your get them out you can cut some of the flooring that you can get up . Regarding fitting a heat blanket to the tank is a good idea in theory but it will be the pipes that will freeze first anyway . If you really want to protect your pipes from freezing it can be quite a big job but not too expensive you can always have you diesel heater with another Y or T peace with pipe reduction to a smaller size and run the pipes next to your tank and your pipes but the easier we is to fit another heater underneath your van just to heat your tank and pipes but you will use more diesel. Having said that the easiest way is to lag your pipes but also cover them so when your driving in snowy condition the snow dose not stick to the lagging or pipe work we used to use and they more likely still do in the armed forces on vehicles that are being used in extreme conditions you can use plastic guttering and all you have to do is heat the edges with a heat gun or a blow lamp so you can screw it to the floor body . Which will not ad weight to your van ,I’m not one for writing ✍️ so I hope I have explained it that you understand
Solve two problems at once: put the toilet across from the electrical panel so it pulls out in front of the fridge location, relocate the fridge above the new toilet location. Fridge moves up for better access and more space in garage. AJ sleeps on the floor in almost the same location. Win, win, win! Put a water fill on the side of the van instead of the bottom and fill/draw off the top. Tank pad heater and pipe heater/insulation A block heater and possibly a second battery solve the cold start issue. Repair glow plugs. Good idea with the heater to solve condensation. Don't go too strong on the spring rates or the dampening with suspension upgrades, you don't want a harsh ride ruining your trips. Leave the wood floor alone and put down interlocking carpet squares. Easy install/removal for deep cleaning and easy to replace if needed. If there isn't plywood under your wood flooring you would be walking on foam that would crush down with just carpet on top. Best of luck
Hi just a quick tip with your floor. Take the kitchen doors off and use a multi tool to cut the floor tight to the cupboard. You need to remove the doors to give a better cut. Hope this helps
Having lived in the Scottish Highlands for several years and going off road in a 4x4 in severe winters I made many changers to my vehicle. Yes unlike yours it was petrol driven so no comment on preheating. But still had to overcome treacherous terrain with my existing suspension. I added gas shock absorbers namely Pro Comp ones. But as I believe you have leaf springs and given your extra weight, I would replace the leaf springs with heavy duty ones and add gas shock absorbers. These will work two ways. One the will make your ride more comfortable but more important in snowy ice conditions will give the wheels better traction because they will put more pressure downwards. I never got stuck in deep snow in the wilds and gave me extra grip with standard road tyres even fording shallow rivers with slippery stones. terrain
take the doors of the kitchen and such like, then use a trim saw against the edge of the cabinet, this will enable you to remove most of the floor but leave the bits under the units.
Hi Louise, goodluck with the changes, as far as the floor is concerned I would leave the kitchen in situ, then using a multi tool with the square saw blade attachment fitted, just follow around the footprint of you kitchen cupboard, you can then unscrew the rest of the floor and lift it out leaving that cupboard where it is. I've done a few conversations now and been full time in my coachbuilt Chieftain for last 5 and half years, made lots of changes to that too. Anyway goodluck, dont panic it really isnt as shitty job as you fear 👍 all the best Ray
Hello Vibes, I used to own and run a small camper business in Lancs. a few years ago, built all our own vans. We used to fit all tanks internal because the technology just wasn't there for heating outside tanks, drained the batteries way to quick...so no help there. Ive fitted over 50 Air ride suspension mods to vans and while very effective , Ive just fitted the Sumo Springs from Rhodes Vans to my sprinter (they are available for your van) and I think they work slightly better in that they are progressive in the way they work, an air bag is simply that, fill it to 20 psi and it jacks the van up but handles no better and bumps seem to be worse, great intro photography , love it ! keep up your good travels 👍👍👍
If you add a duct hose to the back, it doesn't have to be as large in diameter as the other. You could have it terminate in the back in a box with a small 12v fan. That way you can regulate it by switching the fan on and off from your bed when the furnace is on. For the fan, there are 12v electric heaters (not very useful by themselves) on Amazon. You could use one of those with the heater element removed so only the fan works. Haven't done it; just an idea.
Lou, you are my absolute hero. Emily is lucky to have someone like you taking care of all the technical things in life. She would not even know all these things exist without you there to remind her 😜 I can't wait for all the rebuild vids.
Hi, I'm originally from Minnesota, US where winter temps can get to -20°F (-28°C) and colder. With diesel fuel, you want to make sure you have additives in the fuel so it won't jell. If you can keep the fuel warm it will also help with starting. When it's cold outside the humidity goes down but burning diesel and propane in heaters will add humidity as will cooking and just breathing. The best way to fight the humidity is with air moment. I have retired and moved to Florida and there is plenty of humidity to fight. Besides the air conditioner cooling the air it removes humidity and just a small fan greatly helps with the humidity and mold. Good Luck with the van make-over.
For an extra layer of tank insulation it might be useful to paint them with liquid rubber before wrapping with the thermal blanket. Lots of products for use on things ranging from water tanks to flat roofs. You might also consider painting your existing floor with a non-slip industrial paint instead of ripping it out. As it is a hardwood laminate it would key well for application and you would retain the thermal value of the existing floor. Floor paint comes in lots of different colours and textures these days (think garage floors and wet rooms) and I think there is even a formula that dog kennels use. I have had floor paint in my cottage kitchen for 16yrs and just renewing it this year. Prep, priming and as many coats as the product recommends is the secret to a successful outcome....and it is a job that Emily could do! Looking forward to seeing Fanny's new thermal underwear!
C.A.K. Heaters (on eBay) 12v /36watt/3amp ..has internal auto thermostat:- on 5* above freezing 🥶 and off at 10*. Drill the hole in the tank with a tapered cutter (as opposed to a starrat/hole saw) to get an exact/forced fit even though silicone will also be used. Remember to order the metal external bracket if you cannot access the inside of the tank. They can fit either horizontally or vertically subject to clearances. Also Dunlop Air suspension-fit and forget. Chris.
I wish my wife was as enthusiastic about all things van life... If i were you i would get some Altro flooring and fit it neatly over the existing floor. A lot less hassle and the weight that's there is low down anyway so shouldn't affect the drive too much. Good luck, I'm looking forward to following ....
You need to plug in your engine when it’s cold and sitting for awhile. I think it’s like a dipstick you put in the oil and it has a cord with a plug through the grate in front of engine, use an outdoor extension cord to a power source. From the States, from the Dakotas.
you're correct. No miracle way to get rid of condensation, other than heat and well designed ventilation. Every roof is built on that principle. I notice though that it builds up. One thing I do is blast the van with heat regularly with the diesel heater, then straight after, run the engine cab heater at the front, with the windows cracked. The moisture is pushed onto the cold windscreen from the back of the van, then out of the windows by the engine heater. You don't seem to get much condensation for a few days after that. Unibond moisture traps also suck up a good amount of moisture. And some low power usb fans to circulate air. I'd also try to cover any exposed metal around the wood with some of that bubble foil insulation and stretch carpet/fabric, using spray glue, to give moisture less chance to settle on cold surfaces - the more it gets pushed onto the windscreen, the easier it is to get rid of.
Your almost there with the extra heat vent idea but what you need is better warm air circulation. You have areas blocked off from others therefore air can’t circulate and you’ll get cold pockets of still air. Convection is required to help your needs. As warm air rises from the heater outlet (s) the colder air falls but you need it to move and not just sit. Unfortunately in the van life system of ramming as much into the small space of a van is ok in warmer climates but not what’s best in cold climates where you need air FLOW in all areas. Extra fans dotted around the van will help as well as extra heat outlets and encourage air flow Chanel’s through your van areas
5:30 water tanks. I've never had a frozen tank but I have had a frozen _sink drain_ On the side of the road I sawed it off just below the floor & let it drain on the ground. (Sawing ice upside down when you know what's above it isn't fun) First repair was to just hang a bucket off the chassis, later I had push-fit piping & all sorts of scraps of guttering & blocks taking the water to drains or whatever was close enough. Ice comes out of guttering but not out of pipes.
Adding a little insulation around your diesel filter is worthwhile. At -15 and below the diesel can freeze into a slush. I have experience of this as I live in Scotland. Engine starts drives a mile or so then stops . Then wait until it thaws. I used neoprene wrap, like you can get for beer cans/bottles. Worked fine. Didn’t happen again. Sometimes the little nut on top of the glow plugs comes loose and can cause starting issues, worth a check. Good luck with fanny. All the best. Cheers. 👍🐾😎
Agree with others - multi tool to cutround cabinets rather than taking them out, i would give it an undercut at an angle then new floor can wedge into the angle created. I have a factory fitted diesel preheater in my sprinter and it is good but not sure it is worth it tbh but does mean you drive away with a clear windscreen. Better off to sort your glowplug issue - Dont just change em but put a dc clamp meter round cable to each one and turn the key - if zero amps then address it, if 20ish amps on each then it is fine, don't risk snapping it off trying to remove a plug that is working. I have 4 ducts coming out of my heater - more ducts = quieter, better spread of heat etc, if you can heat the area under the bed it is sooo nice to warm the mattress a little and stops bedding getting mouldy round the edges in really cold weather. See you on the road. J.
That’s a lot of work but worth it, I see a lot of comments saying use a multi tool, which will work but if you choose that route allow plenty of cash for the blades, they don’t last long on flooring. I’ve gone through 3 machines in 4 years doing wood floors, just a heads up…
Hi.. We work on these vans all the time.. They all have cold start problems,make sure all the battery earth points are clean.. we put extra earth straps on the body to Gearbox and from the battery to the body.. This makes a massive difference on cold start,we do it on all the vans we work on. I would definitely look at some way of heating the oil/coolent before -10 cold start.. I personally look at heating the engine oil i’m sure you can get a heated sump plug as oil can increase in viscosity in very low temperatures which will make the engine hard to start. The rear brakes on these vans are always a nightmare I’m pretty sure the handbrake cables are freezing causing the rear brakes to stick on and overheat.. I wouldn’t use the handbrake in extreme conditions.
You mentioned about the condensation issue on the rear doors and the air gap to the rubber tubing. I personally think after watching many other UA-camrs who have gone to very cold climates that the answer here unlike your idea, is to fully insulate the rear doors. Looking at the video, the rusting is due to there being no insulation there. Yes there is an air gap between the door and the rubber seal, but this is normal in all vans. But adding the same insulation as you have done elsewhere there will stop condensation forming there and running down to where you think it is coming from. As to ripping up all the solid flooring and removing your existing kitchen etc to accommodate your dog, unless you have lots of time and money, I would add in just one particular area of flooring anti slip paint.
Hi there, thanks for your comment. I think you may have misunderstood, the rear doors are insulated, the condensation forms on the door seal, as this is connected to the exterior metal of the van you cannot insulate behind that bit of seal. Condensation forms there due to a process called thermal bridging. Lou used to work with insulation and part of her job was preventing condensation, air flow, ventilation and heat will be the only way to stop it forming on the seal. It’s not forming on the door itself, it’s forming on the seal then running down onto the door. Hope that makes sense, and again, thanks for watching 😀😀
It takes a lot of electricity to create heat, which is why you use diesel and gas for that. For the freezing of water pipes and tank under the van, have you thought of an option like what you're considering for the rear doors condensation problem? A tube carrying hot air alongside (preferably inside the lagging) of the water pipe and dispersing under tank insulation should be enough to mimic an interior system.
Just a thought regarding the extra vent from the diesel heater to the garage/battery storage, perhaps relocating the heater itself in the garage area may be a better option we have ours in a storage area and it keeps it right toasty you could run the vent supply pipe near the batteries to keep them warm without directly feeding hot air into a closed space 🤔. Love the content as always good luck with your project Mark and Lynda 👍🚙
Lou is always great and interesting, but we missed the tiny little goblin chocolate monster! :-) I recall you have a bricks and sticks place, so maybe invest in or borrow a good hydraulic floor jack and two axle-stands, rated for the weight of the van? Maybe four tons? It looks as though you will be van lifers for some time to come yet, so a trolley jack is almost essential for a DIY mechanic. [Stay safe of course]. The jacks that come with vehicles [screw or hydraulic type] are really only good for emergency tyre changes. Polystyrene is super-light, and if you sniff around a white-goods retailer or TV retail outlet, they usually have heaps of the stuff that goes to the recycling or rubbish tip. A small electric heater against the tank, and the insulation might do it. Maybe one to one and a half inches of polystyrene all round the tank. It is fragile stuff, but perhaps some thin, lightweight plastic panelling [cold tolerant] might do the job. I am thinking cheap because while you don't appear starved, you are unlikely to be millionaires. The van floor? I am thinking about 1 inch thick cork instead of the wood, topped with vinyl. Anyway, my two cents, I am not a cold expert. Around these parts, it is not unusual to hit 40+ degrees centigrade in summer. Some plasticy stuff can get very brittle at very low temperatures. Good luck Lou and I hope you get some effective advice on your problems.
You need a small windmill on a telescoping pole. You only put it up when you have no sun. My hubs is in the process of making one for us at home when we have no sun.
To preheat engine, Diesel Hydronic Heater. Electric engine block heater / oil pan heater. Colder country's have carparks with electric outlet to plug in your car, to keep engine block warm. Engine needs to be preheated at -15 or below for about 2 -4 hours, depending on how cold it gets outside. Diesel Hydronic Heater about 1-2 hours.
Hi Lou, With regards to your low temp start problem. There are three methods of low temp start solutions. 1, Crankcase heaters. 2, Block heaters . 3, Diesel pre heaters . Check these out on the net. If you need more info let me know. Citron have a cold system for Canada and other cold countries. Though they do not advertise this. It is normal for ALL manufacturers to have this system otherwise how do they sell their vans for cold weather countries. I am now wintering in Scotland from sunny Spain brass monkies and welding torches is the order of the day. Good luck with your upgrades.
Hi lou keep up the good work, there are ways to reclaim heat off your night heater exhaust pipe to heat water, there are videos on UA-cam covering this topic.hope this helps. John
Your thinking on winter proofing the van are on the right track. Welcome to everyday 🇫🇮. Adding heat piping for better heat and air circulation, adding a heat mat + insulation to your tanks and getting an engine block heater. Standard stuff in ”Nordic” motorhomes.
Tank blankets vs tank heater probe: The blankets work even if the tank is empty and don’t burn out. The probes heaters need to be covered by liquid (fresh or waste) and never quite fit to the bottom of the tank, so this can be a pain if you are having problems finding fresh water and running really low, and you have to let the waste fill a bit before turning on the heater probe so it may already have frozen. The only real downside of the blanket style heater is a risk of damage if on the bottom of the tank. As well as using bubble style insulation outside the tank and heater, see if you can find some of the plastic material they make Estate Agent “for sale” signs out of - it’s light weight, corrugated inside (more insulation) but also good for deflecting stones and other objects likely to damage the tank insulation under the van. Just my 2p worth, hope this helps.
Multi tool on floor, cover the water tank with polystyrene , then thermo blanket, seen loads when doing mot’s on adventure trucks, foam floor tiles with carpet will give so much warmth, over runners where animals go to protect from mud, etc , upgrade springs, don’t do bags, let the suspension work as intended, Jack up kits are available for your van. I know you want to here from experience, this what I’ve seen when working on vehicles at work and taking to customers that drive in extreme low temperatures, best wishes always girls ❤️❤️
If you are going somewhere cold make sure you don't have too much UK Diesel in your tank and instead fill up on the local winter/Arctic or premium brand. Well worth the extra 2 or 3 cents a liter. Not only less likely to freeze up in the tank but easier to start.
Hi Guys, been watching you vids for probably 2 or 3 months now. I've been watching UA-cam on my TV so haven't ben able to leave any comments so far. (don't worry I've subscribed and always hit that big fat thumbs up) 👍But...... just thought I'd nip onto my laptop to say how much I'm enjoying your vids and especially your verbals...😂 I can appreciate how much effort and hard work that goes into each one, so just wanted to take time out to say keep up the good work, I'm loving it. Being a London Lad who's lived away for many many years, your verbals with each other bring back so many memories and just crack me up at times. Also having done lots of traveling around the place over the years myself, its good to see the slightly different way you vanlifers go about it all.👍 So all the best and keep on enjoying what you do.... trust me its going down well...
Hey Richard, thanks for taking the time to comment for the first time, glad you are enjoying the vids, we do love making them and being able to share and even better you like the way we speak 😆😀
You could all you could always spend the diesel heater round 180° and have it blowing towards the the back of the van , then put your Y connection on and have you to blowing from underneath your cooker
Change to twin leaf springs, I have in the same van and the transformation is absolutely incredible it use to wallow around in strong winds now drives superb
Unfortunately I don't know one end of a vehicle to the other, but I know that you'll do this and do it well. PS I can act as a witness that Em has said that she'd hate to go anywhere cold. It's a woman's prerogative to change our minds! Love you both 😘
Yeah, I live in Germany and every single person (even the lady who works as a receptionist at the car inspection place 😂) told me not to use the handbrake in the winter. This is wild for me as well, as it had never occurred to me before (and I also never had any issues. Luck I guess. Originally from the US ) I think these cold weather countries are very well adapted. Now, to just get used to not using the handbrake...
I think as others have mentioned you can get heater elements will either heat the water in the Engine block which join the engine block via a T piece and work on 24 volt not sure what the current draw on your inverter would be though or heat the Oil in the sump If the engine is sluggish to turn over in a really cold ambient temperature might be worth trying a winter grade oil from October to March also doing two oil changes in a year won't harm the engine Try the new glow plugs first though but get a good garage to do the job so no broken glow plugs I think adding a heater outlet to the rear and venting from skylight may work for the condensation Watch out for that black mould though can cause respiratory issues
Lou, your back doors looks as though you have fitted painted V grouped MDF, it may help if you use Anti-Mould Paint (Fungicidal Paint) to help reduce any mould on you rebuild Bob
Hi Bob, thanks for the tip, I actually profiled the doors myself and they’re made from external grade 6mm ply and still treated both sides. The mould will most likely wash off but that’s not the point, the fact that’s it’s forming means we are breathing bad air whilst in the hab area which is never good lol! Thanks again Bob and thanks for watching 😀👍
I have a demountable camper that sits on the back of my Isuzu pick up which is a large chunk of weight on the back axle and I've had Dunlop air suspension fitted at the back only. It makes such a difference to the handling and ride that I wouldn't be without it and I even had it taken off my Ford Ranger and transferred it to the D-Max when I changed vehicles. Unfortunately, mine is a manual system that need to be pumped up externally with a compressor. It came with the camper when I bought it so I've stuck with it but If I was starting from fresh I would have one of the electric ones that you control from the drivers seat. I've heard nothing but good things about the electrical systems from people in the demountable community.
Hi lou, regarding any possible le changes to the rear suspension we had exactly the same issue with our 2014 Peugeot Boxer LWB after much research we decided not to install air suspension but to fit double leaf springs with slightly longer shock absorbers. After three years and 25000 miles I am very pleased with the choice, as the motorhome usually runs fully loaded it flattens the springs out nicely wnd gives a good ride. We also use our van for day to day running and when the van is not fully loaded it is a bit more springy but nothing out of the way. Also the extra ground clearance comes in really handy! I'll dig our the paperwork and let you know the make of the spri gs and the shockers that we fit. Keep up the cracking blog. Mark and Sue.
Whilst you're replumbing the heater you could divert a pipe that runs next to the external pipes (and tank if needed) and insulate the lot, worked when I lived in an old Merc down to -12c or so. Some people use the exhaust pipe to do this but I worried about setting fire to things... Good luck with the work, I hope you have a multi tool to cut that floor 🤔, or there'll be a lot of 🤬🤬🤬
As for the suspension. I had an extra leaf added to the rear springs which increased their capacity by almost 1000lbs. I then did not have to make any changes to the front suspension. This has worked for three yrs now with no further issues.
We have a compass auntie motorhome and we had air spring as sisters fitted. The existing springs are left in place and the air bellow devices are fitted in place of the bump stops. The system works great. The van has much less body roll on the move and they help the springs no end as it lifts the back end of the vehicle up. They cost £250 and I fitted them myself in a morning.
when driving in wet or snow, SLIGHTLY apply park brake before stopping for the night to dry them out before applying to park. we did this with our brakes on semi(lorry) to prevent freezing to drums
Wire your glow plugs direct( ull have a switch on the dash) switch it on they will heat up no matter the weather.( any good mechanic will do it. Air suspension is useless too you as it will only give u height it wont fix the roughness of the drive,heavy duty leaf springs get another 1or 2 extra leafs on each side. For you floor use multifuntional tool with fine blade and cut the line of the kitchen and take flòor out,,should get it out no hassle 👍
Hello Regarding the suspension, check the French van Chanel Voyage-voyage: he change his relay to pneumatic... And Removing some of the wood would help reducing on the wear & tear ... Good luck and keep on the good work !
I recall that in Sweden (as a nipper) our family car was plugged in winter times for an hour before driving off. The heater was heating the oil, IIRC. It was a fairly standard installation, every car had the "Winter Upgrade". May you have to go to Sweden for *that* upgrade :) (They have snow there too)
Handbrake is probably the pivot point in the middle underneath ('L' shaped with a spring). We have the seize in the winter at work on a fleet of fiat ducato's. Single cable going in and 2 cables coming out. When it seizes the handbrake lever side goes down making you think its off but the pivot remains on therefore your rear brakes stay on. Really poor design as we now strip and grease them every service. Anyway loving your videos, keep up the good work. it may not be this but definitely worth a look and grease. One day I will build my own camper
9:06 Diesel preheat. You're taking about several different things here, heating the fuel & heating the engine, before starting & while running. Diesel has waxes which condense out when it's cold & this blocks the filters, the first thing is to get fuel frequently & locally so the mix matches the expected weather (if you get caught out you can chuck a gallon of petrol into a nearly-full tank to dissolve the wax). When it gets colder you can get fuel filters with electrical heaters for pre-heat & a loop into your cab heater water for running-heat. Really really cold light a fire under your fuel tank (making sure there's nothing flammable round it or on top). Blowlamps take hours, don't bother with them. Engine pre-heating, the most obvious solution is a 'Bobil heater' (spelling?) but I'm not sure your 2KW saloon heater is big enough to do both engine & saloon. It might be, seek advice. Next is a separate Diesel-powered heater for the engine, there's lots of makes, all are expensive so look in scrap yards for nearly-new. They're available in England but not common, get one anywhere north or east of Paris. (You can loop this or the Bobil through the Diesel filter too). In your situation I wouldn't recommend an electric engine heater, they take too much power, but they are available if you think you can make one work. Many factory carparks from Germany northwards have an electric post on each bay for these. If your engine fails to warm up when running it's most likely a stuck thermostat but if it isn't, slide a piece of corrugated cardboard down the front of the radiator. Look at all the vans as you pass them, if most have cardboard you probably need it too.
DON'T drill holes in the tank. Use a heating pad and trace heat lines on the pipes. They still might freeze, mine did, but they thaw easily when you power it up.
Be very careful changing glow plugs, they can snap very easily and you’ll then have to have them drilled out. I replaced a set a few years ago on a Vauxhall Combo and I kept soaking them for about a week with a spray called “freeze and release” then removed them after warming the engine and spraying them again and I was very gentle with the pressure I applied to the wrench. It might also be worth looking into engine heating for use in cold climates.
Forty something years ago, on my first job after I left the navy, I helped with installing a freezer/chiller plant in a factory. All the equipment had drains that were there to take the condensation away from the equipment but they were notorious for freezing. So, there was a heater tape wrapped arount the pipes, it's about 10mm wide with two wires in it which we connected to 240V but no doubt there would be a 12V version available and they were applied in a spiral around the pipe with about a 25mm gape between turns. Connected to a thermastat there should be no reason why the drain pipes should freeze up. Have fun with the refit and test cruise. :-)
Hi guys! Great vid! I live in Sweden so I'm well versed in chilly environments. Here is some advice: 1. Don't use handbrake but just leave it in reverse, small chocks are fine. 2. Do a ceramic treatment on your glass as its easier to defrost. Why not ceramic coat the whole vehicle, protection against salt is so much better than dealing with rust. 3. Lubricate your door seals with silicone lube. 4. Lube your locks. 5. Diesel block heaters are amazing. 6. Winter diesel is a must. The coldest I've experienced is -40 and I used my diesel block heater. Good kit. I sleep at home with a window open all year, ventilation and heat is the only way, sure cracking a window will lose some heat but at least you won't get condensation.
Hi, nice to see you messing again.. fixed my diesel heater today, but that's another story.. the last time I had a glow plug issue, I paid a mechanic, for fear of snapping them.. the next day, same as before.. bought a new relay.. job done. Go for the cheapest option first. Good luck.
A few comments. First is the tricky one: stronger springs or air assist are just papering over the cracks. The problem is probably that the van is too heavy. You should take it to a weighbridge, fully loaded, and get the separate axle weights. If you're near the limits, reduce the weight instead of strengthening springs. The pine boards are a huge unnecessary weight. Replace them with something light. Go through the van and see if anything is heavier than it needs to be. With the brakes, it's a good idea to use the handbrake frequently in winter, but never to leave it on when you are parked overnight. Even if it's not freezing, it can stick. The condensation on the back doors might be helped if you can add weatherstrip on the outer edge of the door opening, to stop cold blowing in. Getting heat to the back makes sense, but maybe you could run the duct under the floor, near the tanks and inside their blankets (hopefully the pipes in there too). The little heat that leaks out might help. Put a controllable vent outlet at the back of the van so you can adjust how much warm gets through. The cold starting problem is a fault in your van. Fix the fault before thinking about pre heaters. It should have no trouble starting in -15 temperatures. But remove glowplugs carefully. Too hard a pull will snap them off and repairing that is a big expensive job! Best left to a genuine expert, that job. Not an apprentice at the main dealers!
allo a block heater will do the job with your jackery for your cold strart the colder the weather the longer you let it on here in quebec its get cold very cold and we use block heater all the time,good lock
Forget air suspension. Go double leaf springs and change bump stops for 'sumo springs'. Will be winning combo. For tanks I would take tanks down and lag outside, install heater probe and temp probe. Fit 12v valve at tank exit so all water stays in tank and not in pipes. Ensure pipes have no sags for 'standing water' to hold. Then you can monitor tank temp and use heater as and when needed for emptying the tank. Activate valve and all water will empty with none left in external pipes. Hope that's makes some sort of sense.
You are such an inspiration to women Lou showing that anything is possible. My husband even says your very knowledgeable and is impressed with your problem solving. Keep up the good work 👍 and looking forward to your updates.
Moving water freezes slower as tank anklet may not stop the pipes from freezing may be a return water pipe to the tank (secondary circulation) doesn't have to be fast moving just to keep the water agitated
Hi folks, Happy new year!! We hope 2022 has been kind to you all so far! The comments are rolling in thick and fast on this one which is soooo appreciated as Lou is already getting some great tips! We may not be able to reply to every comment this week as we normally do as Lou is getting ready to go away and as most of you know I probably won’t understand half of them anyway lol!!
Please know we will read every single one and every comment, tip, trick and just general banter is always welcome.
As always, thank you all so much for watching and we will see you all soon, happy Sunday!! 😀😀
Bang a couple of pc fans behind the numberplate and space the plate out for airflow. They should give you enough airflow to stop it condensing low down.
Did it on my transit a few years ago🤟
In emergency you can Put a heat gun in the intake after the filter and try starting also you will want to look at getting a heating blanket for the fuel tank as the diesel turn to jelly the colder it gets
Talk about a total redesign Louise and Emily. One thing I will add is a tilting mechanism to your solar panel, I've got friends way up north and it makes a megger difference in winter. Look forward to watching all the updates and another Fanny 😀
Hi girls,
Just a couple of thoughts for your consideration.
As a qualified plumber of more than 50 years, I can tell you that a few millimetres of lagging on your pipes, won't protect from more than a light frost - I was an apprentice during the great freeze of 1963, and I can remember pipes freezing, that were buried 2 and a half feet, (that's about 76cm), BELOW ground!
Some of the bigger coachbuilt continental MoHos have a heated double floor, which houses tanks and pipes, to overcome the problem.
Obviously you cannot do this with a PVC, so maybe you'll have to drain your underslung tanks and carry a 10 litre can in the garage.
Regarding your heater, we also have a Planar in our Sprinter, and it really is a good bit of kit. However the thermostat that came with it, was not very flexible - all or nothing. Autoterm recently brought out a new control unit, which gives very fine control, allows you to set a temperature, which, once reached, switches the heater off, until the temperature drops by a degree or so, then restarts the heater. It's about 120 quid, but we'll worth it.
That being the case, you could perhaps run a duct back under your bed, and maintain a gentle heat to help with the condensation. You would of course, need to put a tee piece in it so you could control air to either your garage, or your living area.
We had the same problems as you, with a VW about 3 or 4 years ago - white vapour coming out of the exhaust - we limped home with several stops to top up the rad. Anyway, long story short, nobody could tell me what was wrong with it, so I did what I would have done 30 years ago, I put leak sealant in the rad. It cured it and stayed cured until the day I sold it! I don't go anywhere now, without a little can of sealant in the toolbox. K-Seal is what I used and I thoroughly recommend it.
www.amazon.co.uk/K-Seal-DE5501D-Universal-Radiator-Sealant/dp/B07D1FSP74/ref=sr_1_5?crid=1XQMMYGXZBI6F&keywords=K+seal&qid=1641935530&sprefix=k+seal%2Caps%2C124&sr=8-5
We really enjoy your videos and look forward to them coming out.
Oh and finally, when you refit, build in a proper loo - you won't regret it - AJ will happy on your bed! Best of luck, Pete and Anne.
Engine: Block heater.
Water tank: blanket (or DIY polystyrene) and heater probe, recirc. pump.
Condensation: it’s all about managing the humidity in your van. Open your fwd vent fan slightly, power your aft fan to exhaust, and crank up your heater. You want to increase the ventilation airflow only enough to exchange the air inside the van. Remember: you’re actually drawing in relatively dry air at -15C, it’s the breathing and cooking that’s increasing the humidity.
Hand brakes: leave them the f**k alone, it’s a matter of when, not if, their cables will freeze.
Greetings from Eastern Canada (the warmer part) Temperature this morning -25C
Fit a good brand glowplugs if in doubt. For preheating the engine fit a Webasto Thermotop heater. It not only helps to start the engine but also reduces the wear on it from cold starts. And you will have a warm cabin much faster. Fit the biggest starter battery and insulate it (or divert a small amount of warm air from the diesel air heater to it). A cold battery looses a lot of the cranking power.
Fit uprated suspension (for example Bilstein) and air suspension is also a good way to go (but expensive) but only helps at the rear.
Never use the bandbrake in freezing conditions. The cable tend to freeze which will prevent the hand brake fro releasing. Just leave it in gear and if neccessary chock the wheels.
Route ducting from the air heater to the rear storage under the bed and leave a gap between the bed and the doors so the air can rise up preventing condensation issues. The added benefit is that the bed is also warm. Don't know if you have an external T-sensor fitted to the air heater (probably not) but that works way better in regulating the temperature then using the one inside the air heater. Place it near to where you want to have the set temperature (sitting area / bed?).
The only good solution for the drinking water and waste water under the van is to move them inside. Alternatively you can add a small tank inside (30L) for using when it is freezing (simple 3-way valve to switch from inside tank to outside tank) and make sure the underslung tank is empty. If it freezes it is likely to burst some pipes or fittings.
Leave the gray water tank open in freezing conditions.
Trying to prevent them from freezing @-15 or -20°C is nearly impossible and would require a lot of energy from the batteries. Especially in winter conditions the solar will have a hard time charging the batteries.
As a keen Ukulele player was very pleased to see your Uke in a nice warm place .... Good to see ... And can we see a bit more Uke playing in Fanny in the future .... Very informative video ... 👍👍👍
Lou does love her Uke, I'm sure there will be more playing once these upgrades are done
If European travel is a thing you will do a lot of ( and why not), then a european van would come equipped with all these changes, including the steering wheel being on the correct side.
A new Ford Transit supplied here has -20 start, snow tyres, and ac for the very hot summers, plus all the fluids are rated.
That GB sticker and plate stands out like a sore thumb, parked up, or travelling.
Stay grey.
So your problem with getting under the van ? First get prepared ,buy a crawler board ( the kind that mechanics use to get under a car) get all your pipe insulation and heater blankets ready together with some strong large cable ties. Accidently knock your other half (the small person) over this is best done onto a soft surface ie carpeted area before she can get up insert crawler board under her and quickly cable tie here to the board, push outside insert under the van and when she stops screaming and swearing get here to insulate the pipework and tanks !!!😁 JOB DONE .p.s.totally love you two.
Hi Ladies, glad to see your still ok and Louise is still up for a challenge. I'll keep this as brief as I can as to what we installed to winterize our 6m MWB VW Crafter three years ago and why.
If one point helps then job done.
1. If you are running ducting from your diesel heater to the rear, consider sleeving the ducting with Webasto duct insulation 60mm AND sleeve that with 100mm it will stop you losing a lot of heat over that length behind the cupboards allowing the van to heat up quicker. It will still be warm enough behind the panels to help stop any pipes from freezing.
2. Keep water pipes as short as possible then any self regulating heating wire you run alongside it will be shorter and hence use less electric.
3. Bring your fresh water tank inside if you can. Our van is only 6m and our Barratt tank is 100 litres but we still squeezed it in the rear (oops! sorry for the pun, blush). So much less stressful (But we still installed 2 x 15w heating pads and a 30w probe on a thermostatic switch just in case!)
4. Don't worry about the waste tank, leave that under, just have the facility to divert the drain pipe into a bucket as and when needed.
Works for us even on 2 x 150A non- Lithium AGM batteries. (Ours Lead Carbon). Worst case so far was in Sweden at -16C in Jan 2020. Apart from a frozen waste tank which thawed out no damage were still rolling.
Good luck with the Mods and understand if you don,t reply. I'm sure you're swamped. Too much choice.
It is always lovely to listen to you and Emily. Nice to hear AJ is recovering. But! Remember to buy PTFE based lock oil. PTFE prevents locks from freezing among other things. From what i could see the tires you had looks like friction tires. Nothing wrong with those if you are living where you do or on the continent. But if you go to northern scandinavia you need studed winter tires, there are a law on that. Like, Kumho WinterCraft ICE WI31 or any similar tire from any other brand. I advice you to do some research on what tires you should have where you´r going. They are also better to handle black ice. But make sure you have PTFE based lock oil with you. It can help you alot. I live in northern sweden where it gets around -25 C sometimes -35 C in the winter, getting locked out is the last thing you want to be.
You could put a small pipe from your diesel heater to blow on your outside water tank. Richard. Stay safe.
One point on second solar panel, it isn't completely useless when the two are in series and with mppt charge controller, I have two 300w panels set like this.
The reason is that when the sun is too weak with one panel or two but in parallel the voltage is still as with one panel and can easy get below 14v, if the two or more panels are in series the voltage will double; basically when one panel will make only 10volts two will be 20 so you can still charge properly. This is particularly important the more north you go as the sun angle gets lower and lower.
In my case my panels are 36 volts so both come to 72, this helps me extract every last bit of sun power possible. Next things is to also make it possible for the panels to tilt, I have that in my future upgrades list, and in the nordic countries this is more or less a must!
I work full time from the van (living in it full time) and even run a 3d printer (not so much in the winter though) and usually i have to use dc charger while driving 8-10 times per year and I have never charged from the mains except for when I was testing the electrical system.
If you do go down the rip it all out route, weigh everything.
I'm sure your aware of maximum gross weight, the problem with most van conversions is once everything is in you are over mgw.
If my memory serves me well relay, boxer and ducato are 2400kg meaning an empty van has a max load capacity of 800kg which isn't a full pallet of cement, 3/4 of a pack of 2.4m 2x4
One of the ways to reduce weight is to make functional areas out of foam and fibreglass its extremely strong and light weight compared to the same wood or metal construction. So areas like the bed and storage.
This intern reduces the weight over the rear of the vehicle so also the load on the springs.
springs are only half the suspension and you have van dampers and not motor home dampers the suspension fluid will be heavier in the motor home dampers as they are of a different design internally having a fast and slow rebound rate.
This does not in anyway make the ride perfect but it does make things a lot less dramatic as I'm sure the odd cuppa has been spilled.
Food for thought regards harryb
Bilstein B6 shock absorber struts in front/B6 shocks in rear, Firestone Air bags in rear, job done.
7:30 lifting van
You can drive it onto blocks.
It's easier if they're different lengths so you're only lifting one wheel at a time, you can also put short blocks on top of long ones to get multiple heights.
All the stuff I've looked at seems to point in the direction of underfloor heating - but then you get the additional cost of something like a Wabasco. The major difference between a blower and the floor heating, with the former you lose all the warmth as soon as you open the door. The latter heats up everything, and that heat is then retained and the van is almost instantly warm again. But then everyone's a bloody expert ;)
Come to think of it - with the long list of modifications, it is looking more and more like re-doing the entire van, instead of just applying a few upgrades. Have you considered instead just buying another van, doing it up from the beginning with winter vanlife in mind - maybe even tweaking the layout and finding a way to put the water tanks inside, which would save you a lot of power usage in the depth of winter? Then, when the new van is ready, you can just sell the current one as it is. No need to throw away so much good work and materials you've already invested in this one. And you would constantly have a van ready to use throughout the process - so less stress. Just an idea.
I've directed the heater exhaust to the underside of the tank by the outlet. It worked to defrost the frozen water.
Hi ladies, to reduce condensation in the van you need to get the diesel heater to draw sum fresh air in to get better circulation, as we breathe out half a pint of water overnight. If you have run a car in the winter with the heater on full with it set to recycled are you will see the windows steam up which is why you need to have recycled air. Keeping the roof vent but there needs to go out somewhere as in a car has outlet vents usually in the boat,
Have a look round caravan/motorhome dealers to see how things are fitted on the inside. What things are used to keep the weight down, check the layout. You could possibly fit a shower/toilet unit and not lose that much space.
the only advice i can give you is to have fun and give the little one a hug to stay sane whilst doing the rebuild . looking fwd to seeing what you get up to and how it turns out . big hugs from down under
Aw thanks Mark, it will be fun I'm sure 😊
8:23 glow plugs
They take a lot of current so corroded wires are often the problem not the glowplugs themselves.
Try cleaning the contacts with sandpaper & then a smear of CoppaSlip to slow new corrosion but you're quite likely to need new wires.
Land Rover use Webasto heaters to preheat the engine and cabin. Why don't you take a third outlet forward into the engine bay from your current heater. The best insulation for vehicles is Dacron insulation, you use spray contact adhesive to afix to the bulkhead. Saves weight and works really well keeping you warm/cold. One of the reasons your van gets really cold in the winter is due to it being white. But, it also helps to keep it cooler in the summer as white reflects the sun away. You could also wrap the van in a different colour for winter! Solar, 20W is 20W you should always over spec for your solar. Just missed you in Germany as I was also heading back to the UK.
Hi Lou 🙂
Just a thought regarding your floor replacement: you could use a multi-tool with a vibrating head and fine-tooth saw head to neatly cut the floor around the outside and inside of your cabinets. I don't know if this could work, but may be an option. I know the worktops would then be ½' higher in effect than they are now, but even little people (?) should be ok with that.
Love watching your stuff, and, as others have commented, your cinematography is superb. All the best.
totally agree with John's suggestion.. have had to do that in a small reno.. works a treat.. 😊👍
Just away to suggest the same idea. this would save you ripping everything out
Was going to suggest the same myself!!
Same here, it will save you a lot of time and effort but still give you a nice job.
Just as well I read the comments first, I was going to suggest the same thing .
Engine heaters can either be an electrical element mounted on the engine block, or a heater that burns petrol or diesel to heat coolant.
Here in Sweden we have 2 sorts of engine heaters:
-220 volt engine heaters that you need to plug in or
-webasto diesel/gasoline burning heaters that don't need to be plugged in.
My Peugeot boxer has a webasto engine heater that heats the coolant and at the same time it heats the inside of the van. It starts on a timer or by pushing the start button.
On my Audi Q5 it starts by remote control.
Knaus's solution for winterising underslung tanks is an insulated box which has blown air heating sent into it which you can control by opening or closing a flap. You have a diesel heater in the van which you could use for this. Possibly build a plywood box (insulated with armorall lagging) and then run vent pipes to the box. Rather than a heating element which will not survive really low temps. Tank blanket is another possibilty.
Cheers Andy, love all the info 🙂🙂
You need to have a chat with Ash he as been there and done it , brakes will freeze in really cold weather even your diesel can freeze . If you get some 16mm sticks to hold the units up while your get them out you can cut some of the flooring that you can get up . Regarding fitting a heat blanket to the tank is a good idea in theory but it will be the pipes that will freeze first anyway . If you really want to protect your pipes from freezing it can be quite a big job but not too expensive you can always have you diesel heater with another Y or T peace with pipe reduction to a smaller size and run the pipes next to your tank and your pipes but the easier we is to fit another heater underneath your van just to heat your tank and pipes but you will use more diesel. Having said that the easiest way is to lag your pipes but also cover them so when your driving in snowy condition the snow dose not stick to the lagging or pipe work we used to use and they more likely still do in the armed forces on vehicles that are being used in extreme conditions you can use plastic guttering and all you have to do is heat the edges with a heat gun or a blow lamp so you can screw it to the floor body . Which will not ad weight to your van ,I’m not one for writing ✍️ so I hope I have explained it that you understand
Solve two problems at once: put the toilet across from the electrical panel so it pulls out in front of the fridge location, relocate the fridge above the new toilet location. Fridge moves up for better access and more space in garage. AJ sleeps on the floor in almost the same location. Win, win, win!
Put a water fill on the side of the van instead of the bottom and fill/draw off the top. Tank pad heater and pipe heater/insulation
A block heater and possibly a second battery solve the cold start issue. Repair glow plugs.
Good idea with the heater to solve condensation.
Don't go too strong on the spring rates or the dampening with suspension upgrades, you don't want a harsh ride ruining your trips.
Leave the wood floor alone and put down interlocking carpet squares. Easy install/removal for deep cleaning and easy to replace if needed. If there isn't plywood under your wood flooring you would be walking on foam that would crush down with just carpet on top.
Best of luck
Hi just a quick tip with your floor. Take the kitchen doors off and use a multi tool to cut the floor tight to the cupboard. You need to remove the doors to give a better cut. Hope this helps
Having lived in the Scottish Highlands for several years and going off road in a 4x4 in severe winters I made many changers to my vehicle.
Yes unlike yours it was petrol driven so no comment on preheating. But still had to overcome treacherous terrain with my existing suspension. I added gas shock absorbers namely Pro Comp ones. But as I believe you have leaf springs and given your extra weight, I would replace the leaf springs with heavy duty ones and add gas shock absorbers. These will work two ways. One the will make your ride more comfortable but more important in snowy ice conditions will give the wheels better traction because they will put more pressure downwards. I never got stuck in deep snow in the wilds and gave me extra grip with standard road tyres even fording shallow rivers with slippery stones.
terrain
take the doors of the kitchen and such like, then use a trim saw against the edge of the cabinet, this will enable you to remove most of the floor but leave the bits under the units.
Hi Louise, goodluck with the changes, as far as the floor is concerned I would leave the kitchen in situ, then using a multi tool with the square saw blade attachment fitted, just follow around the footprint of you kitchen cupboard, you can then unscrew the rest of the floor and lift it out leaving that cupboard where it is. I've done a few conversations now and been full time in my coachbuilt Chieftain for last 5 and half years, made lots of changes to that too. Anyway goodluck, dont panic it really isnt as shitty job as you fear 👍 all the best Ray
Hello Vibes, I used to own and run a small camper business in Lancs. a few years ago, built all our own vans. We used to fit all tanks internal because the technology just wasn't there for heating outside tanks, drained the batteries way to quick...so no help there. Ive fitted over 50 Air ride suspension mods to vans and while very effective , Ive just fitted the Sumo Springs from Rhodes Vans to my sprinter (they are available for your van) and I think they work slightly better in that they are progressive in the way they work, an air bag is simply that, fill it to 20 psi and it jacks the van up but handles no better and bumps seem to be worse, great intro photography , love it ! keep up your good travels 👍👍👍
If you add a duct hose to the back, it doesn't have to be as large in diameter as the other. You could have it terminate in the back in a box with a small 12v fan. That way you can regulate it by switching the fan on and off from your bed when the furnace is on. For the fan, there are 12v electric heaters (not very useful by themselves) on Amazon. You could use one of those with the heater element removed so only the fan works. Haven't done it; just an idea.
Lou, you are my absolute hero. Emily is lucky to have someone like you taking care of all the technical things in life. She would not even know all these things exist without you there to remind her 😜 I can't wait for all the rebuild vids.
🤣🤣 lucky, hmmm you don't have to clean up after her 🤣🤣
Don't forget ventilation under the mattress like using a waffle style pad or you will get mold under there.
Hi, I'm originally from Minnesota, US where winter temps can get to -20°F (-28°C) and colder. With diesel fuel, you want to make sure you have additives in the fuel so it won't jell. If you can keep the fuel warm it will also help with starting. When it's cold outside the humidity goes down but burning diesel and propane in heaters will add humidity as will cooking and just breathing. The best way to fight the humidity is with air moment. I have retired and moved to Florida and there is plenty of humidity to fight. Besides the air conditioner cooling the air it removes humidity and just a small fan greatly helps with the humidity and mold. Good Luck with the van make-over.
If you light a classical (not led) bulp next to fresh water tank, it helps. 20-30 watts are ok. You do not need your water is warm. Just 3-5 c is ok.
For an extra layer of tank insulation it might be useful to paint them with liquid rubber before wrapping with the thermal blanket. Lots of products for use on things ranging from water tanks to flat roofs. You might also consider painting your existing floor with a non-slip industrial paint instead of ripping it out. As it is a hardwood laminate it would key well for application and you would retain the thermal value of the existing floor. Floor paint comes in lots of different colours and textures these days (think garage floors and wet rooms) and I think there is even a formula that dog kennels use. I have had floor paint in my cottage kitchen for 16yrs and just renewing it this year. Prep, priming and as many coats as the product recommends is the secret to a successful outcome....and it is a job that Emily could do! Looking forward to seeing Fanny's new thermal underwear!
C.A.K. Heaters (on eBay) 12v /36watt/3amp ..has internal auto thermostat:- on 5* above freezing 🥶 and off at 10*. Drill the hole in the tank with a tapered cutter (as opposed to a starrat/hole saw) to get an exact/forced fit even though silicone will also be used. Remember to order the metal external bracket if you cannot access the inside of the tank. They can fit either horizontally or vertically subject to clearances. Also Dunlop Air suspension-fit and forget. Chris.
I wish my wife was as enthusiastic about all things van life...
If i were you i would get some Altro flooring and fit it neatly over the existing floor. A lot less hassle and the weight that's there is low down anyway so shouldn't affect the drive too much.
Good luck, I'm looking forward to following ....
You need to plug in your engine when it’s cold and sitting for awhile. I think it’s like a dipstick you put in the oil and it has a cord with a plug through the grate in front of engine, use an outdoor extension cord to a power source. From the States, from the Dakotas.
you're correct. No miracle way to get rid of condensation, other than heat and well designed ventilation. Every roof is built on that principle. I notice though that it builds up. One thing I do is blast the van with heat regularly with the diesel heater, then straight after, run the engine cab heater at the front, with the windows cracked. The moisture is pushed onto the cold windscreen from the back of the van, then out of the windows by the engine heater. You don't seem to get much condensation for a few days after that. Unibond moisture traps also suck up a good amount of moisture. And some low power usb fans to circulate air. I'd also try to cover any exposed metal around the wood with some of that bubble foil insulation and stretch carpet/fabric, using spray glue, to give moisture less chance to settle on cold surfaces - the more it gets pushed onto the windscreen, the easier it is to get rid of.
Your almost there with the extra heat vent idea but what you need is better warm air circulation. You have areas blocked off from others therefore air can’t circulate and you’ll get cold pockets of still air. Convection is required to help your needs. As warm air rises from the heater outlet (s) the colder air falls but you need it to move and not just sit. Unfortunately in the van life system of ramming as much into the small space of a van is ok in warmer climates but not what’s best in cold climates where you need air FLOW in all areas. Extra fans dotted around the van will help as well as extra heat outlets and encourage air flow Chanel’s through your van areas
5:30 water tanks.
I've never had a frozen tank but I have had a frozen _sink drain_
On the side of the road I sawed it off just below the floor & let it drain on the ground. (Sawing ice upside down when you know what's above it isn't fun)
First repair was to just hang a bucket off the chassis, later I had push-fit piping & all sorts of scraps of guttering & blocks taking the water to drains or whatever was close enough. Ice comes out of guttering but not out of pipes.
Adding a little insulation around your diesel filter is worthwhile. At -15 and below the diesel can freeze into a slush.
I have experience of this as I live in Scotland. Engine starts drives a mile or so then stops . Then wait until it thaws. I used neoprene wrap, like you can get for beer cans/bottles. Worked fine. Didn’t happen again. Sometimes the little nut on top of the glow plugs comes loose and can cause starting issues, worth a check. Good luck with fanny. All the best.
Cheers. 👍🐾😎
Agree with others - multi tool to cutround cabinets rather than taking them out, i would give it an undercut at an angle then new floor can wedge into the angle created.
I have a factory fitted diesel preheater in my sprinter and it is good but not sure it is worth it tbh but does mean you drive away with a clear windscreen. Better off to sort your glowplug issue - Dont just change em but put a dc clamp meter round cable to each one and turn the key - if zero amps then address it, if 20ish amps on each then it is fine, don't risk snapping it off trying to remove a plug that is working.
I have 4 ducts coming out of my heater - more ducts = quieter, better spread of heat etc, if you can heat the area under the bed it is sooo nice to warm the mattress a little and stops bedding getting mouldy round the edges in really cold weather. See you on the road. J.
That’s a lot of work but worth it, I see a lot of comments saying use a multi tool, which will work but if you choose that route allow plenty of cash for the blades, they don’t last long on flooring. I’ve gone through 3 machines in 4 years doing wood floors, just a heads up…
Hi..
We work on these vans all the time.. They all have cold start problems,make sure all the battery earth points are clean.. we put extra earth straps on the body to Gearbox and from the battery to the body.. This makes a massive difference on cold start,we do it on all the vans we work on.
I would definitely look at some way of heating the oil/coolent before -10 cold start.. I personally look at heating the engine oil i’m sure you can get a heated sump plug as oil can increase in viscosity in very low temperatures which will make the engine hard to start.
The rear brakes on these vans are always a nightmare I’m pretty sure the handbrake cables are freezing causing the rear brakes to stick on and overheat.. I wouldn’t use the handbrake in extreme conditions.
You mentioned about the condensation issue on the rear doors and the air gap to the rubber tubing. I personally think after watching many other UA-camrs who have gone to very cold climates that the answer here unlike your idea, is to fully insulate the rear doors. Looking at the video, the rusting is due to there being no insulation there. Yes there is an air gap between the door and the rubber seal, but this is normal in all vans. But adding the same insulation as you have done elsewhere there will stop condensation forming there and running down to where you think it is coming from. As to ripping up all the solid flooring and removing your existing kitchen etc to accommodate your dog, unless you have lots of time and money, I would add in just one particular area of flooring anti slip paint.
Hi there, thanks for your comment. I think you may have misunderstood, the rear doors are insulated, the condensation forms on the door seal, as this is connected to the exterior metal of the van you cannot insulate behind that bit of seal. Condensation forms there due to a process called thermal bridging. Lou used to work with insulation and part of her job was preventing condensation, air flow, ventilation and heat will be the only way to stop it forming on the seal. It’s not forming on the door itself, it’s forming on the seal then running down onto the door. Hope that makes sense, and again, thanks for watching 😀😀
It takes a lot of electricity to create heat, which is why you use diesel and gas for that. For the freezing of water pipes and tank under the van, have you thought of an option like what you're considering for the rear doors condensation problem? A tube carrying hot air alongside (preferably inside the lagging) of the water pipe and dispersing under tank insulation should be enough to mimic an interior system.
Just a thought regarding the extra vent from the diesel heater to the garage/battery storage, perhaps relocating the heater itself in the garage area may be a better option we have ours in a storage area and it keeps it right toasty you could run the vent supply pipe near the batteries to keep them warm without directly feeding hot air into a closed space 🤔.
Love the content as always good luck with your project Mark and Lynda 👍🚙
Lou is always great and interesting, but we missed the tiny little goblin chocolate monster! :-)
I recall you have a bricks and sticks place, so maybe invest in or borrow a good hydraulic floor jack and two axle-stands, rated for the weight of the van? Maybe four tons? It looks as though you will be van lifers for some time to come yet, so a trolley jack is almost essential for a DIY mechanic. [Stay safe of course]. The jacks that come with vehicles [screw or hydraulic type] are really only good for emergency tyre changes.
Polystyrene is super-light, and if you sniff around a white-goods retailer or TV retail outlet, they usually have heaps of the stuff that goes to the recycling or rubbish tip. A small electric heater against the tank, and the insulation might do it. Maybe one to one and a half inches of polystyrene all round the tank. It is fragile stuff, but perhaps some thin, lightweight plastic panelling [cold tolerant] might do the job. I am thinking cheap because while you don't appear starved, you are unlikely to be millionaires.
The van floor? I am thinking about 1 inch thick cork instead of the wood, topped with vinyl. Anyway, my two cents, I am not a cold expert. Around these parts, it is not unusual to hit 40+ degrees centigrade in summer. Some plasticy stuff can get very brittle at very low temperatures. Good luck Lou and I hope you get some effective advice on your problems.
You need a small windmill on a telescoping pole. You only put it up when you have no sun. My hubs is in the process of making one for us at home when we have no sun.
Nobody ponces around a van like you! Absolutely love what you guys do.
😆 she does it so well
To preheat engine, Diesel Hydronic Heater. Electric engine block heater / oil pan heater. Colder country's have carparks with electric outlet to plug in your car, to keep engine block warm. Engine needs to be preheated at -15 or below for about 2 -4 hours, depending on how cold it gets outside. Diesel Hydronic Heater about 1-2 hours.
Hi Lou,
With regards to your low temp start problem.
There are three methods of low temp start solutions.
1, Crankcase heaters.
2, Block heaters .
3, Diesel pre heaters .
Check these out on the net.
If you need more info let me know.
Citron have a cold system for Canada and other cold countries. Though they do not advertise this.
It is normal for ALL manufacturers to have this system otherwise how do they sell their vans for cold weather countries. I am now wintering in Scotland from sunny Spain brass monkies and welding torches is the order of the day. Good luck with your upgrades.
Hi lou keep up the good work, there are ways to reclaim heat off your night heater exhaust pipe to heat water, there are videos on UA-cam covering this topic.hope this helps. John
Your thinking on winter proofing the van are on the right track. Welcome to everyday 🇫🇮. Adding heat piping for better heat and air circulation, adding a heat mat + insulation to your tanks and getting an engine block heater. Standard stuff in ”Nordic” motorhomes.
Tank blankets vs tank heater probe: The blankets work even if the tank is empty and don’t burn out. The probes heaters need to be covered by liquid (fresh or waste) and never quite fit to the bottom of the tank, so this can be a pain if you are having problems finding fresh water and running really low, and you have to let the waste fill a bit before turning on the heater probe so it may already have frozen. The only real downside of the blanket style heater is a risk of damage if on the bottom of the tank. As well as using bubble style insulation outside the tank and heater, see if you can find some of the plastic material they make Estate Agent “for sale” signs out of - it’s light weight, corrugated inside (more insulation) but also good for deflecting stones and other objects likely to damage the tank insulation under the van.
Just my 2p worth, hope this helps.
Multi tool on floor, cover the water tank with polystyrene , then thermo blanket, seen loads when doing mot’s on adventure trucks, foam floor tiles with carpet will give so much warmth, over runners where animals go to protect from mud, etc , upgrade springs, don’t do bags, let the suspension work as intended, Jack up kits are available for your van. I know you want to here from experience, this what I’ve seen when working on vehicles at work and taking to customers that drive in extreme low temperatures, best wishes always girls ❤️❤️
If you are going somewhere cold make sure you don't have too much UK Diesel in your tank and instead fill up on the local winter/Arctic or premium brand. Well worth the extra 2 or 3 cents a liter. Not only less likely to freeze up in the tank but easier to start.
Multi tool cut around the floor at your kitchen cabinets and other areas and just lay new floor up to those points
Hi Guys, been watching you vids for probably 2 or 3 months now. I've been watching UA-cam on my TV so haven't ben able to leave any comments so far. (don't worry I've subscribed and always hit that big fat thumbs up) 👍But...... just thought I'd nip onto my laptop to say how much I'm enjoying your vids and especially your verbals...😂 I can appreciate how much effort and hard work that goes into each one, so just wanted to take time out to say keep up the good work, I'm loving it. Being a London Lad who's lived away for many many years, your verbals with each other bring back so many memories and just crack me up at times. Also having done lots of traveling around the place over the years myself, its good to see the slightly different way you vanlifers go about it all.👍 So all the best and keep on enjoying what you do.... trust me its going down well...
Hey Richard, thanks for taking the time to comment for the first time, glad you are enjoying the vids, we do love making them and being able to share and even better you like the way we speak 😆😀
You could all you could always spend the diesel heater round 180° and have it blowing towards the the back of the van , then put your Y connection on and have you to blowing from underneath your cooker
For Springs I used Jones Springs in Darlaston. They made me some heavy duty double leaf Springs for my Iveco
Change to twin leaf springs, I have in the same van and the transformation is absolutely incredible it use to wallow around in strong winds now drives superb
Unfortunately I don't know one end of a vehicle to the other, but I know that you'll do this and do it well. PS I can act as a witness that Em has said that she'd hate to go anywhere cold. It's a woman's prerogative to change our minds! Love you both 😘
😆 exactly Anna we can so change our minds right
Yeah, I live in Germany and every single person (even the lady who works as a receptionist at the car inspection place 😂) told me not to use the handbrake in the winter. This is wild for me as well, as it had never occurred to me before (and I also never had any issues. Luck I guess. Originally from the US ) I think these cold weather countries are very well adapted. Now, to just get used to not using the handbrake...
I think as others have mentioned you can get heater elements will either heat the water in the Engine block which join the engine block via a T piece and work on 24 volt not sure what the current draw on your inverter would be though or heat the Oil in the sump If the engine is sluggish to turn over in a really cold ambient temperature might be worth trying a winter grade oil from October to March also doing two oil changes in a year won't harm the engine Try the new glow plugs first though but get a good garage to do the job so no broken glow plugs I think adding a heater outlet to the rear and venting from skylight may work for the condensation Watch out for that black mould though can cause respiratory issues
Lou, your back doors looks as though you have fitted painted V grouped MDF, it may help if you use Anti-Mould Paint (Fungicidal Paint) to help reduce any mould on you rebuild
Bob
Hi Bob, thanks for the tip, I actually profiled the doors myself and they’re made from external grade 6mm ply and still treated both sides. The mould will most likely wash off but that’s not the point, the fact that’s it’s forming means we are breathing bad air whilst in the hab area which is never good lol! Thanks again Bob and thanks for watching 😀👍
I have a demountable camper that sits on the back of my Isuzu pick up which is a large chunk of weight on the back axle and I've had Dunlop air suspension fitted at the back only. It makes such a difference to the handling and ride that I wouldn't be without it and I even had it taken off my Ford Ranger and transferred it to the D-Max when I changed vehicles.
Unfortunately, mine is a manual system that need to be pumped up externally with a compressor. It came with the camper when I bought it so I've stuck with it but If I was starting from fresh I would have one of the electric ones that you control from the drivers seat. I've heard nothing but good things about the electrical systems from people in the demountable community.
Hi lou, regarding any possible le changes to the rear suspension we had exactly the same issue with our 2014 Peugeot Boxer LWB after much research we decided not to install air suspension but to fit double leaf springs with slightly longer shock absorbers. After three years and 25000 miles I am very pleased with the choice, as the motorhome usually runs fully loaded it flattens the springs out nicely wnd gives a good ride. We also use our van for day to day running and when the van is not fully loaded it is a bit more springy but nothing out of the way. Also the extra ground clearance comes in really handy! I'll dig our the paperwork and let you know the make of the spri gs and the shockers that we fit. Keep up the cracking blog. Mark and Sue.
Whilst you're replumbing the heater you could divert a pipe that runs next to the external pipes (and tank if needed) and insulate the lot, worked when I lived in an old Merc down to -12c or so. Some people use the exhaust pipe to do this but I worried about setting fire to things...
Good luck with the work, I hope you have a multi tool to cut that floor 🤔, or there'll be a lot of 🤬🤬🤬
As for the suspension. I had an extra leaf added to the rear springs which increased their capacity by almost 1000lbs. I then did not have to make any changes to the front suspension. This has worked for three yrs now with no further issues.
For living in really cold conditions, maybe contact Lost in Europe? They are in Northern Sweden with about -40°C or something like that.
We have a compass auntie motorhome and we had air spring as sisters fitted. The existing springs are left in place and the air bellow devices are fitted in place of the bump stops. The system works great. The van has much less body roll on the move and they help the springs no end as it lifts the back end of the vehicle up. They cost £250 and I fitted them myself in a morning.
when driving in wet or snow, SLIGHTLY apply park brake before stopping for the night to dry them out before applying to park. we did this with our brakes on semi(lorry) to prevent freezing to drums
Wire your glow plugs direct( ull have a switch on the dash) switch it on they will heat up no matter the weather.( any good mechanic will do it.
Air suspension is useless too you as it will only give u height it wont fix the roughness of the drive,heavy duty leaf springs get another 1or 2 extra leafs on each side.
For you floor use multifuntional tool with fine blade and cut the line of the kitchen and take flòor out,,should get it out no hassle 👍
If you add a line to your heater for the garage put a damper in it and then you can adjust how much heat you want to go there.
Amazing info.thanks, what a brilliant job you have done with the van. We have older version of yours in NZ.❤
Hello
Regarding the suspension, check the French van Chanel Voyage-voyage: he change his relay to pneumatic...
And Removing some of the wood would help reducing on the wear & tear ...
Good luck and keep on the good work !
I recall that in Sweden (as a nipper) our family car was plugged in winter times for an hour before driving off. The heater was heating the oil, IIRC. It was a fairly standard installation, every car had the "Winter Upgrade". May you have to go to Sweden for *that* upgrade :) (They have snow there too)
Thank you, so think you may be right, easier to get it sorted in one of the countries that are used to it lol! Sweden looks amazing!
Been missing you. Thanks for the update
We are back 😀😀😀
Great to see you back
Handbrake is probably the pivot point in the middle underneath ('L' shaped with a spring). We have the seize in the winter at work on a fleet of fiat ducato's. Single cable going in and 2 cables coming out. When it seizes the handbrake lever side goes down making you think its off but the pivot remains on therefore your rear brakes stay on. Really poor design as we now strip and grease them every service. Anyway loving your videos, keep up the good work. it may not be this but definitely worth a look and grease. One day I will build my own camper
For the engine prehet wabasto do a unit. Runs on diesel connects into the coolant system and gets the engine up to temperature
You could leave the flooring under the kitchen and cut along the front of the units
9:06 Diesel preheat.
You're taking about several different things here, heating the fuel & heating the engine, before starting & while running.
Diesel has waxes which condense out when it's cold & this blocks the filters, the first thing is to get fuel frequently & locally so the mix matches the expected weather (if you get caught out you can chuck a gallon of petrol into a nearly-full tank to dissolve the wax).
When it gets colder you can get fuel filters with electrical heaters for pre-heat & a loop into your cab heater water for running-heat.
Really really cold light a fire under your fuel tank (making sure there's nothing flammable round it or on top). Blowlamps take hours, don't bother with them.
Engine pre-heating, the most obvious solution is a 'Bobil heater' (spelling?) but I'm not sure your 2KW saloon heater is big enough to do both engine & saloon. It might be, seek advice.
Next is a separate Diesel-powered heater for the engine, there's lots of makes, all are expensive so look in scrap yards for nearly-new. They're available in England but not common, get one anywhere north or east of Paris. (You can loop this or the Bobil through the Diesel filter too).
In your situation I wouldn't recommend an electric engine heater, they take too much power, but they are available if you think you can make one work. Many factory carparks from Germany northwards have an electric post on each bay for these.
If your engine fails to warm up when running it's most likely a stuck thermostat but if it isn't, slide a piece of corrugated cardboard down the front of the radiator. Look at all the vans as you pass them, if most have cardboard you probably need it too.
So much info Alan, thanks, I'll make sure lou has a little look 😀
DON'T drill holes in the tank. Use a heating pad and trace heat lines on the pipes. They still might freeze, mine did, but they thaw easily when you power it up.
Thanks David
Be very careful changing glow plugs, they can snap very easily and you’ll then have to have them drilled out. I replaced a set a few years ago on a Vauxhall Combo and I kept soaking them for about a week with a spray called “freeze and release” then removed them after warming the engine and spraying them again and I was very gentle with the pressure I applied to the wrench. It might also be worth looking into engine heating for use in cold climates.
Forty something years ago, on my first job after I left the navy, I helped with installing a freezer/chiller plant in a factory. All the equipment had drains that were there to take the condensation away from the equipment but they were notorious for freezing. So, there was a heater tape wrapped arount the pipes, it's about 10mm wide with two wires in it which we connected to 240V but no doubt there would be a 12V version available and they were applied in a spiral around the pipe with about a 25mm gape between turns. Connected to a thermastat there should be no reason why the drain pipes should freeze up.
Have fun with the refit and test cruise. :-)
Hi guys! Great vid! I live in Sweden so I'm well versed in chilly environments.
Here is some advice:
1. Don't use handbrake but just leave it in reverse, small chocks are fine.
2. Do a ceramic treatment on your glass as its easier to defrost. Why not ceramic coat the whole vehicle, protection against salt is so much better than dealing with rust.
3. Lubricate your door seals with silicone lube.
4. Lube your locks.
5. Diesel block heaters are amazing.
6. Winter diesel is a must.
The coldest I've experienced is -40 and I used my diesel block heater. Good kit.
I sleep at home with a window open all year, ventilation and heat is the only way, sure cracking a window will lose some heat but at least you won't get condensation.
Hi, nice to see you messing again.. fixed my diesel heater today, but that's another story.. the last time I had a glow plug issue, I paid a mechanic, for fear of snapping them.. the next day, same as before.. bought a new relay.. job done. Go for the cheapest option first.
Good luck.
A few comments. First is the tricky one: stronger springs or air assist are just papering over the cracks. The problem is probably that the van is too heavy. You should take it to a weighbridge, fully loaded, and get the separate axle weights. If you're near the limits, reduce the weight instead of strengthening springs. The pine boards are a huge unnecessary weight. Replace them with something light. Go through the van and see if anything is heavier than it needs to be.
With the brakes, it's a good idea to use the handbrake frequently in winter, but never to leave it on when you are parked overnight. Even if it's not freezing, it can stick.
The condensation on the back doors might be helped if you can add weatherstrip on the outer edge of the door opening, to stop cold blowing in.
Getting heat to the back makes sense, but maybe you could run the duct under the floor, near the tanks and inside their blankets (hopefully the pipes in there too). The little heat that leaks out might help. Put a controllable vent outlet at the back of the van so you can adjust how much warm gets through.
The cold starting problem is a fault in your van. Fix the fault before thinking about pre heaters. It should have no trouble starting in -15 temperatures. But remove glowplugs carefully. Too hard a pull will snap them off and repairing that is a big expensive job! Best left to a genuine expert, that job. Not an apprentice at the main dealers!
allo a block heater will do the job with your jackery for your cold strart the colder the weather the longer you let it on here in quebec its get cold very cold and we use block heater all the time,good lock
Forget air suspension. Go double leaf springs and change bump stops for 'sumo springs'. Will be winning combo. For tanks I would take tanks down and lag outside, install heater probe and temp probe. Fit 12v valve at tank exit so all water stays in tank and not in pipes. Ensure pipes have no sags for 'standing water' to hold. Then you can monitor tank temp and use heater as and when needed for emptying the tank. Activate valve and all water will empty with none left in external pipes. Hope that's makes some sort of sense.
You are such an inspiration to women Lou showing that anything is possible. My husband even says your very knowledgeable and is impressed with your problem solving. Keep up the good work 👍 and looking forward to your updates.
Thanks guys, lou is definitely handy to have around 😆😀
Moving water freezes slower as tank anklet may not stop the pipes from freezing may be a return water pipe to the tank (secondary circulation) doesn't have to be fast moving just to keep the water agitated
Multitool will help cut around the kitchen units good luck 👍