Bro is the bmw Jesus. You’re gonna help me nearly completely rebuild my 02 325xi and make her beautiful again so thanks e46 Jesus, I’d be lost without you.
Jason. Thank you so much for your support and your ability to demonstrate to those of us NOT so fortunate to have been born with your mechanicals abilities. I replaces all three pulleys just like you did. It just took a bit longer, but I did. You should be a College Professor. Again I enjoy all of your videos. Perhaps you can tell us how we can send some money your way, to at least cover your expenses when you buy your OEM PARTS. I, will be more than happy to help you out. It is more than feared, for the time you devote to all of us BMW e46 owners. May God blessed you always. Thank you so much. Tonio.
Firstly, thank you for all your well prepared videos. Like to add a tip on the E46 tensioner; it has two matching holes (on the flanges of the stationery & moving parts), which will line up when the spring is fully compressed. This lets you insert a thick nail or Allen wrench to lock it in the compressed position. Makes life much easier, allowing you to put the serpentine belt on with both hands, without having to struggle with one hand while using the other hand to torque the tensioner to its max. I have a photo but cannot include here.
@@BimmerDope You are the only person who has read my comment and responded positively. Though not used this time, it will next time. Such is life! Thank you.
Amazon actually sells those pullies now for 15 separate from their perspective tensioners, but you probably know that by now . Thanks for the amazing content over the years
Hi.. would u know if hydraulic tensioner pulley and the pulley on mechanical are the same? In description of the replacement pulley it says hydraulic but i have a mechanical tensioner. Thanks
@@BimmerDope im pretty sure you can just change it to the new one right should be the same bolt pattern ive been away from cars now for like 6 months so im not to sure off the top of my head
I’m sure you all have figured out by now that the alternator/ps pump tensioner pulley and AC pulley aren’t the same. •Alternator/PS pump tensioner pulley INA F-220179-300 •AC tensioner pulley INA F-226239-2300 Great video Jason
i just have to send you a huge thanks. your videos have helped me very much. I'm a first time bmw owner and with your vids i was able to bring new life to this 2002 180k e46
Hi man! Good video as usual. One thing is, in my deep opinion, which is equal to yours - better Do NOT replace tensioner to the hydraulic one! 1) Chiper to buy another mechanical one. (INA as an exapmle, BMW used INA actually in orig boxes I saw...) 2) Mechanical have less time to replace (just 2 bolts instead of 3 ,) ) 3) Mechanical have very easy construction with body and spring inside. Nothing more! 4) Hydraulic one have plastic bushing at the upper side of the hydraulic tensioner itself and this plastic might be from a poor material which will be dead in few thousands of KM and start to vibrate... And this is a problem! If he car is old (basically it is) and Oil Pan gasked didn't replaced yet - the vibratin will speedup the replacement :) Because oil will start/continue leaking much more with vibration. Why it coul start to be bad as an example if water pump pulley have a non-centric "beating"... especially if it is not original. Should be checked. And this would speed up such tensioner to die.... 5) If we can check BMW parts catalogue - we would see that at next generation engines there were NO hydraulic tensioners anymore! All of new engines have ONLY mechanical tensioners! That is also telling us something... Looks like it was an experiment or making-money toy... Mechanical ones perfectly worked since 90s... And worked perfectly without any worries.. So, let's Don't waste our money and don't get additional problems and headache - mechanical belt tensioner is the proper choise! :) P.S. And as Sawier noted here in chat few months ago... INA 531076010 is the proper opne roller for mechanical tensioner.
Yes i bought INA 531 0760 10, exactly same pulley as the one i took out, also faster to replace since you dont have to remove whole tensioner. And it was 5 times cheaper than buying whole tensioner.
Beautiful! Every time I start a repair on my E46, I check with your channel and every time, you’ve got me covered. Best live Chilton’s or Bentley’s. Actually, far far better than Bentley’s (what’s the point of that book anyway?). You are, as always, the single best authority on E46 anywhere!
I check your channel every day for part one of the engine rebuild lol. I'm excited to see it so I can get a feel for what I'm getting into with mine before I tear it down.
Hmm. A little difficult to post a comment. Anyway here's a few observations: Thanks for a great video. I also review all your other postings! Here's some additional info: There are two different lower A/C tensioners. You illustrate the one with two bolts; there is also a version with just one central bolt, which I had in my 2004 e46 Coupe/M56. I got all the INA bearings (OEM) on eBay at reasonable prices. Same for the Conti belts (OEM). I got a Conti belt for the A/C, but it was a cm or two shorter than the original, and was too short to install. Reused the old one. The A/C idler pulley is NOT the same as the upper serpentine tensioner pulley. They look very similar but the upper one uses the rear washer you illustrated, while the lower one has this cover built in to the tensioner unit (at least on the one-bolt A/C tensioner). Different diameters of the fixed part, different bolts for mounting. I had the hydraulic tensioner on my car, and was able to just replace the pulley. With only 82km miles on my 2004 250 Csi and a careful inspection the hydraulic tensioner was fine. The hydraulic tensioner is preferred by BMW because it's failure mode is just slow loss of tension. The mechanical one fails catastrophically, which can cause a lot of other problems. I'd NOT recommend keeping it at all.
Worth knowing - I found a squeaking noise at idle and thought it was the pulley but it turned out to be the spring inside the mechanical tensioner. Take the belt off and move the tensioner with your wrench and you can hear the squeak.
Hats off to you 50sKid ... was able to get both the upper tensioner and the idler pulley changed out, and to torque spec - sounds so much better and a have a great piece of mind that I did it right! Thank you!!!
Thank you for sharing your knowledge. The video was essential for me to be able to make the necessary repairs on my 2002 BMW 320i 2.2 24v. My name is RaGe and I live in Brazil, on the southern border with Argentina, Paraguay and Uruguay
2:30 actually you can buy it separate (the pulley itself). You need to search the part number only. 11287841228 for the one with the offset screw (top position) and 11281748131 for the other one with the centered screw (middle one). BUT! Take good care because in some cases you may run into a problem when the 11281748131 pulley (middle one, center screw) might not work and you have to buy some kind of universal pulley by dimensions you measure off the existing one. Because in most cases the pulley you order will have that one solid wall with just a hole for the hex screw while the other one will have no wall and a different torx (not hex) screw. IMO the hex is for the tensioner with suspension while the other with the torx is for the mechanical (spring) tensioner. Best if you remove it prior ordering replacement parts so you know what you got in your car. AFAIK the suspension one should have a bigger plastic cover and the mechanical should have it smaller... but you know how it is. Check it out first. The good thing is you can put it back together and drive like usually while you wait for your parts to come in and do it some other day again. And always keep an eye on torque specs. The engine gets warm and cold which is translating into material stretch meaning if you overtorque a screw too much it may snap off one day. That applies across the whole engine, not only the pulley etc.. Hope any of that helped :) PS: Continental belts are the best you can get. So are INA or SKF pulleys. There are some other brands good too but I can't remember them now :)
The hydraulic tensioner may be more prone to failure but it is considered an "upgrade." Regarding eBay parts, I see little savings from that venue over large-scale suppliers like Bavarian Auto and Pelican Auto Parts. With those two suppliers it is easy to know who made your parts. I totally agree that purchasing INA pulleys is the way to go. Why take a chance on receiving junk when you need to get the job done?
Hi just whats the best way to remove my tensioner pulley if the bolt is messed up previous owner/mechanic forced or use something to damage the bolt.i dont know how could i remove the whole assembly.thank you.
Great video. Thank you for this extraordinary help. Just one thing though- I’m not sure about the 45 Nm torque on the hydraulic tensioner. I went to 45 and “snap!” Thankfully I was able to install a mechanical tensioner, available at my local AutoZone. So I didn’t need the third bore. And as always, Bentley’s is useless, providing basically no information on drive belts and definitely not a word about torque specs. Thank you though for all of your immensely helpful videos!
So it’s possible to install a mechanical tensioner instead of the hydraulic one I took of my e46? How do I get rid of that long shaft that’s comes out that’s used for the longer bolt on the hydraulic tensioner.
This may be a bit old, but I want to ask about the top two alternator tensioner pulleys. I just bought an e46 with a M54B22 and it doesn't have the top tensioner pulley. Another friend with the same engine said that his engine was the same way, but when he changed his pulleys and ordered the new ones, it came "with one extra" and it was that top one so he put it on. My pulleys are all fine and all the accessories are working fine and the belt has tension in it, but it's strange how the same engine has different sets of pulleys. My question is, should I be concerned? Should I continue to drive it how it is, or should order the top pulley?
My power steering pulley is constantly misaligned. Bought 2 now. Just doesnt seem balanced to the water pump and/or alternator. Slightly forward, unless suppose to be like that? Which I doubt..
Just snapped the top bolt on my replacement hydraulic tensioner when tightening to your recommended 33 ft lb torque. Did I misread that? You state 18 lb ft for the two (I’m assuming mechanical tensioner bolts) but 33 lb ft for the 3 hydraulic tensioner bolts? Or did you mean 18 for the tensioner bolts regardless of style and 33 for the torx bolt holding the pulley to the tensioner? Also how do I get this sheared bolt out now?? Been enjoying your vids for years now for my 02 330i. Thanks.
Just lost power steering and my battery light came on. Checked my pulleys and my tensioner pulley was only held on by one bolt. The other is sheared off. Any ideas on what I should do??
Hey Sir, thanks a lot for your content. I now did DISA, a/c tensioner and power steering reservoir. BUT: the torx of my hydraulic tensioner is round. Any idea, how to replace the whole tensioner assembly without removing the tensioner pulley before?
gread vid...glad I watched...I was removing the belts on a 2001 330i and was using the accessory belt tensioner torx bolt instead of the 16mm bolt in the back...stripped the torx and was contemplating removing it...however, as I watched your vid, it is an assembly and not just the pulley...would like to replace it though...perhaps I can find the ebay dealer who sells just the pulley...thanks...LR.
Hi 50skid! I love your videos and learned a lot from it. Just want to ask as my car 325ci 2002 doesn’t have idler/guise pulley. I bought it like that. Not sure if this was remove by previous owner. My car is working fine though. My question is what is the disadvantage of having no guide pulley?
Yes just buy the mechanical one. The bolt ones all line up. The mechanical only uses two holes instead of three like the hydraulic version. The reason BMW went to hydraulic is supposedly better gas mileage and lower noises and less strain on the engine. Just make sure you get the INPA or BMW brand only. INPA is the way to go as it is way less and is the OEM that the BMW version is the exact same thing with the BMW logo added.
I know this is an old video I just have a question of my idler pulleys are bad or any my pulleys are bad would it make my fan wobble my E46 what's an M54
Somehow a fan clutch bolt fell in between the crank pulley and oil pan, inside that little groove, i dont get it how it got in between there, it makes a squeeking noise
I know obviously you replace pulleys by rotating it and hearing a sound but How can I tell if I need to replace the tensioners for both A/C and serpentine belt
You likely won't have to replace the tensioners due to them losing tension or something. Perhaps the seals can fail in the hydraulic tensioner (if you have that style) and you'd lose tension and the belt would be way to slack. So that's your answer, test the slack of the belt (it should deflect about an inch) and if it's all sloppy, look to your tensioners.
hi 50 's kid. you just mentioned the both tensioner pulleys are identical one. And I found the pulley only for mechanical tensioner at e-bay. My question is that is it possible to replace only pulley on air compressor tionsioner, as the pulley is available at ebay? thanks million.
I got a mechanical tensioner and I'm about to change the pulley only.. funny thing is that someone swapped the bolt that holds the pulley with a hex bolt that sticks out and I'm unable to use the dust cap.. Anyone knows the part number for the torx bolt that holds the pulley ?
Is it fine if there is gap between back of the mount and upper tensioner mounting point? My hydraulic sits flush but i went with mechanical and now there is gap at top mounting point where i can see bolt
Mas Low Photography here's the thing, when I drive the car long distances (60 + miles) the sound stops. But when the engine cools down and I start the car it starts making it agin.
Not the best idea start threading bolts with that electrical ratchet tool. Better start by hand and then you can continue with it, if you don´t want to cry later with a damaged thread ;)
Why..... Why will nobody show how to get the fan off. For fucks sake. It’s the only part I need and nobody shows it. Great info otherwise. But it blows my mind how many people won’t show t
Hey man!!! Need help ASAP! My tensioners won’t go counter clockwise to be moved out of the way for the belt...it simply tightens and loosens... do the other bolts have to be off I’m confused PLEASE help.
Bro is the bmw Jesus. You’re gonna help me nearly completely rebuild my 02 325xi and make her beautiful again so thanks e46 Jesus, I’d be lost without you.
Don’t even need a service manual with this man. Your work is definitely appreciated and thank you for saving so many of us from unnecessary spending.
Jason.
Thank you so much for your support and your ability to demonstrate to those of us NOT so fortunate to have been born with your mechanicals abilities. I replaces all three pulleys just like you did.
It just took a bit longer, but I did. You should be a College Professor.
Again I enjoy all of your videos. Perhaps you can tell us how we can send some money your way, to at least cover your expenses when you buy your OEM PARTS. I, will be more than happy to help you out.
It is more than feared, for the time you devote to all of us BMW e46 owners.
May God blessed you always.
Thank you so much. Tonio.
Firstly, thank you for all your well prepared videos.
Like to add a tip on the E46 tensioner; it has two matching holes (on the flanges of the stationery & moving parts), which will line up when the spring is fully compressed. This lets you insert a thick nail or Allen wrench to lock it in the compressed position. Makes life much easier, allowing you to put the serpentine belt on with both hands, without having to struggle with one hand while using the other hand to torque the tensioner to its max. I have a photo but cannot include here.
I wish i saw ur comment earlier..pissed off! Thanks for future
@@BimmerDope You are the only person who has read my comment and responded positively.
Though not used this time, it will next time. Such is life!
Thank you.
massively helpful, cheers
Amazon actually sells those pullies now for 15 separate from their perspective tensioners, but you probably know that by now . Thanks for the amazing content over the years
Hi.. would u know if hydraulic tensioner pulley and the pulley on mechanical are the same? In description of the replacement pulley it says hydraulic but i have a mechanical tensioner. Thanks
@@BimmerDope im pretty sure you can just change it to the new one right should be the same bolt pattern ive been away from cars now for like 6 months so im not to sure off the top of my head
I’m sure you all have figured out by now that the alternator/ps pump tensioner pulley and AC pulley aren’t the same.
•Alternator/PS pump tensioner pulley
INA F-220179-300
•AC tensioner pulley
INA F-226239-2300
Great video Jason
I need a adapter (spacer) I need clearance for the mechanical tensioner pulley
i just have to send you a huge thanks. your videos have helped me very much. I'm a first time bmw owner and with your vids i was able to bring new life to this 2002 180k e46
Jairo Garcia I'm on the same mission saving money by doing DIY's
I recently bought a 2005 330i ZHP and your videos have helped me immensely. Thank you so much and please keep making more videos!
Hi man! Good video as usual.
One thing is, in my deep opinion, which is equal to yours - better Do NOT replace tensioner to the hydraulic one!
1) Chiper to buy another mechanical one. (INA as an exapmle, BMW used INA actually in orig boxes I saw...)
2) Mechanical have less time to replace (just 2 bolts instead of 3 ,) )
3) Mechanical have very easy construction with body and spring inside. Nothing more!
4) Hydraulic one have plastic bushing at the upper side of the hydraulic tensioner itself and this plastic might be from a poor material which will be dead in few thousands of KM and start to vibrate...
And this is a problem! If he car is old (basically it is) and Oil Pan gasked didn't replaced yet - the vibratin will speedup the replacement :) Because oil will start/continue leaking much more with vibration.
Why it coul start to be bad as an example if water pump pulley have a non-centric "beating"... especially if it is not original. Should be checked. And this would speed up such tensioner to die....
5) If we can check BMW parts catalogue - we would see that at next generation engines there were NO hydraulic tensioners anymore! All of new engines have ONLY mechanical tensioners! That is also telling us something...
Looks like it was an experiment or making-money toy... Mechanical ones perfectly worked since 90s... And worked perfectly without any worries..
So, let's Don't waste our money and don't get additional problems and headache - mechanical belt tensioner is the proper choise! :)
P.S. And as Sawier noted here in chat few months ago... INA 531076010 is the proper opne roller for mechanical tensioner.
You can buy the tensioner pulley separate. The Dayco 89133 pulley is what people on Fanatics use. I bought the same, and have been very happy so far.
Yes i bought INA 531 0760 10, exactly same pulley as the one i took out, also faster to replace since you dont have to remove whole tensioner. And it was 5 times cheaper than buying whole tensioner.
I've replaced the tensioner pulley too with an INA.
Beautiful! Every time I start a repair on my E46, I check with your channel and every time, you’ve got me covered. Best live Chilton’s or Bentley’s. Actually, far far better than Bentley’s (what’s the point of that book anyway?). You are, as always, the single best authority on E46 anywhere!
I check your channel every day for part one of the engine rebuild lol. I'm excited to see it so I can get a feel for what I'm getting into with mine before I tear it down.
Hmm. A little difficult to post a comment. Anyway here's a few observations:
Thanks for a great video. I also review all your other postings! Here's some additional info:
There are two different lower A/C tensioners. You illustrate the one with two bolts; there is also a version with just one central bolt, which I had in my 2004 e46 Coupe/M56.
I got all the INA bearings (OEM) on eBay at reasonable prices. Same for the Conti belts (OEM).
I got a Conti belt for the A/C, but it was a cm or two shorter than the original, and was too short to install. Reused the old one.
The A/C idler pulley is NOT the same as the upper serpentine tensioner pulley. They look very similar but the upper one uses the rear washer you illustrated, while the lower one has this cover built in to the tensioner unit (at least on the one-bolt A/C tensioner). Different diameters of the fixed part, different bolts for mounting.
I had the hydraulic tensioner on my car, and was able to just replace the pulley. With only 82km miles on my 2004 250 Csi and a careful inspection the hydraulic tensioner was fine.
The hydraulic tensioner is preferred by BMW because it's failure mode is just slow loss of tension. The mechanical one fails catastrophically, which can cause a lot of other problems. I'd NOT recommend keeping it at all.
Worth knowing - I found a squeaking noise at idle and thought it was the pulley but it turned out to be the spring inside the mechanical tensioner. Take the belt off and move the tensioner with your wrench and you can hear the squeak.
Hats off to you 50sKid ... was able to get both the upper tensioner and the idler pulley changed out, and to torque spec - sounds so much better and a have a great piece of mind that I did it right! Thank you!!!
Great job 50's kid! Very easy to follow along.
Thanks 50s Kid. Used your video again and everything is top notch. Great job!
Always appreciate those torque numbers!
Thank you for sharing your knowledge. The video was essential for me to be able to make the necessary repairs on my 2002 BMW 320i 2.2 24v. My name is RaGe and I live in Brazil, on the southern border with Argentina, Paraguay and Uruguay
Wellll... my mechanical tensioner has a sheared bolt on the bottom so I couldn’t get it out. Now I gotta find a way to get the bolt out.
Thank you bro much love and respect, I’m learning a lot....and also create a chance of saving more money....thanks again....
50s kid always saving my life! And my wallet.. the more thorough, the better
Appreciate this DIY. Mine was slightly different but overall straightforward.
guessing you also don't have an idler pulley like me?
Thank you for sharing your knowledge. Helped me a lot many times!
Keep up the good work
Thanks for your videos! Next thing I'm doing is an expansion tank replacement
2:30 actually you can buy it separate (the pulley itself). You need to search the part number only. 11287841228 for the one with the offset screw (top position) and 11281748131 for the other one with the centered screw (middle one).
BUT!
Take good care because in some cases you may run into a problem when the 11281748131 pulley (middle one, center screw) might not work and you have to buy some kind of universal pulley by dimensions you measure off the existing one. Because in most cases the pulley you order will have that one solid wall with just a hole for the hex screw while the other one will have no wall and a different torx (not hex) screw. IMO the hex is for the tensioner with suspension while the other with the torx is for the mechanical (spring) tensioner. Best if you remove it prior ordering replacement parts so you know what you got in your car. AFAIK the suspension one should have a bigger plastic cover and the mechanical should have it smaller... but you know how it is. Check it out first. The good thing is you can put it back together and drive like usually while you wait for your parts to come in and do it some other day again.
And always keep an eye on torque specs. The engine gets warm and cold which is translating into material stretch meaning if you overtorque a screw too much it may snap off one day. That applies across the whole engine, not only the pulley etc..
Hope any of that helped :)
PS: Continental belts are the best you can get. So are INA or SKF pulleys. There are some other brands good too but I can't remember them now :)
The hydraulic tensioner may be more prone to failure but it is considered an "upgrade." Regarding eBay parts, I see little savings from that venue over large-scale suppliers like Bavarian Auto and Pelican Auto Parts. With those two suppliers it is easy to know who made your parts. I totally agree that purchasing INA pulleys is the way to go. Why take a chance on receiving junk when you need to get the job done?
I have learned so much from you. Thank you so much.
you should make some videos at the junkyard some day :)
Great video as always... Is it difficult to change the AC unit itself? I think that's where my squeak is coming from? 🤔
INA is very good brand CONTI belts too
Hi just whats the best way to remove my tensioner pulley if the bolt is messed up previous owner/mechanic forced or use something to damage the bolt.i dont know how could i remove the whole assembly.thank you.
Great video. Thank you for this extraordinary help. Just one thing though- I’m not sure about the 45 Nm torque on the hydraulic tensioner. I went to 45 and “snap!” Thankfully I was able to install a mechanical tensioner, available at my local AutoZone. So I didn’t need the third bore. And as always, Bentley’s is useless, providing basically no information on drive belts and definitely not a word about torque specs. Thank you though for all of your immensely helpful videos!
Which bolt are we talking about? The one for the pulley?
So it’s possible to install a mechanical tensioner instead of the hydraulic one I took of my e46? How do I get rid of that long shaft that’s comes out that’s used for the longer bolt on the hydraulic tensioner.
You CAN buy that pulley by itself on Amazon, just not the INA. DAYCO 89133. Just replaced mine on a 2001 BMW 325i.
i just bought two pulleys for mine off amazon, do you just loosen the bolt in the middle to remove the old one?
Thanks again for your videos, they are very helpful!
However my Bimmer has a hydraulic tensioner not mechanical. How to adjust it, I don’t see a way?
Hi.Whats the name of the pulley that connects to the fan clutch. Mine has gon bad and i cant the find name of it.
Hi! Do u think I can just replace the pulley on a mechanical tensioner?
I’ve never worked on a car in my life and in the past few weeks it’s all I want to do. Is that how it starts?
You should have left that pin in the tensioners till you had the belts on, gives you both hands for routing them..
Another great one, keep'em coming.
Why my car ac tensioner doesn't look like yours? I bought online but it doesn't fit my car it's a 325i 2005
Whats the name of this cordless tool?
This may be a bit old, but I want to ask about the top two alternator tensioner pulleys. I just bought an e46 with a M54B22 and it doesn't have the top tensioner pulley. Another friend with the same engine said that his engine was the same way, but when he changed his pulleys and ordered the new ones, it came "with one extra" and it was that top one so he put it on. My pulleys are all fine and all the accessories are working fine and the belt has tension in it, but it's strange how the same engine has different sets of pulleys. My question is, should I be concerned? Should I continue to drive it how it is, or should order the top pulley?
My power steering pulley is constantly misaligned. Bought 2 now. Just doesnt seem balanced to the water pump and/or alternator. Slightly forward, unless suppose to be like that? Which I doubt..
You make excellent videos!
Just snapped the top bolt on my replacement hydraulic tensioner when tightening to your recommended 33 ft lb torque. Did I misread that? You state 18 lb ft for the two (I’m assuming mechanical tensioner bolts) but 33 lb ft for the 3 hydraulic tensioner bolts? Or did you mean 18 for the tensioner bolts regardless of style and 33 for the torx bolt holding the pulley to the tensioner? Also how do I get this sheared bolt out now?? Been enjoying your vids for years now for my 02 330i. Thanks.
i belive they are 25nm but i would never torque them down just tighten them manually never had any issues.
good man please continue
Just lost power steering and my battery light came on. Checked my pulleys and my tensioner pulley was only held on by one bolt. The other is sheared off. Any ideas on what I should do??
Hey Sir, thanks a lot for your content. I now did DISA, a/c tensioner and power steering reservoir. BUT: the torx of my hydraulic tensioner is round. Any idea, how to replace the whole tensioner assembly without removing the tensioner pulley before?
If im replacing my manual tensioner do I have to also replace the deflection pulley? Or can I use the old one?
Will this pully replacement be the same for a 2002 bmw 330ci?
gread vid...glad I watched...I was removing the belts on a 2001 330i and was using the accessory belt tensioner torx bolt instead of the 16mm bolt in the back...stripped the torx and was contemplating removing it...however, as I watched your vid, it is an assembly and not just the pulley...would like to replace it though...perhaps I can find the ebay dealer who sells just the pulley...thanks...LR.
Hi 50skid! I love your videos and learned a lot from it. Just want to ask as my car 325ci 2002 doesn’t have idler/guise pulley. I bought it like that. Not sure if this was remove by previous owner. My car is working fine though. My question is what is the disadvantage of having no guide pulley?
I have a hydraulic tensioner. Can i switch it to a mechanical?
Yes just buy the mechanical one. The bolt ones all line up. The mechanical only uses two holes instead of three like the hydraulic version. The reason BMW went to hydraulic is supposedly better gas mileage and lower noises and less strain on the engine. Just make sure you get the INPA or BMW brand only. INPA is the way to go as it is way less and is the OEM that the BMW version is the exact same thing with the BMW logo added.
They sell the tensioner pulley at O Reillys
You can buy pilley only from Pelican Parts.
hi one question i have one problem bmw x5 e53 3.0d diesel straight 6 do the oil pump nut or bolt run slack like the e46 model /?
I don't have any information on the diesels.
thank you
Hi 50s kid would anyone know that if the pulley on hydraulic and mechanical tensioner are same and interchangeable?
I know this is an old video I just have a question of my idler pulleys are bad or any my pulleys are bad would it make my fan wobble my E46 what's an M54
Somehow a fan clutch bolt fell in between the crank pulley and oil pan, inside that little groove, i dont get it how it got in between there, it makes a squeeking noise
Doh!
INA parts are actually made in Slovakia, at least the pulley I bought.
I know obviously you replace pulleys by rotating it and hearing a sound but How can I tell if I need to replace the tensioners for both A/C and serpentine belt
You likely won't have to replace the tensioners due to them losing tension or something. Perhaps the seals can fail in the hydraulic tensioner (if you have that style) and you'd lose tension and the belt would be way to slack. So that's your answer, test the slack of the belt (it should deflect about an inch) and if it's all sloppy, look to your tensioners.
hi 50 's kid. you just mentioned the both tensioner pulleys are identical one. And I found the pulley only for mechanical tensioner at e-bay. My question is that is it possible to replace only pulley on air compressor tionsioner, as the pulley is available at ebay?
thanks million.
If it's the correct pulley, yes.
50sKid thanks
would you still have the link for the product on eBay? i would like to purchase too, thanks
just type " e46 pulley" and you will find many of them.
I got a mechanical tensioner and I'm about to change the pulley only.. funny thing is that someone swapped the bolt that holds the pulley with a hex bolt that sticks out and I'm unable to use the dust cap..
Anyone knows the part number for the torx bolt that holds the pulley ?
I know it's been a year but it's 07129905534 and it's here: www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-fillister-head-screw-07129905534
Is it fine if there is gap between back of the mount and upper tensioner mounting point? My hydraulic sits flush but i went with mechanical and now there is gap at top mounting point where i can see bolt
Help needed asap please
Thanks for this!
as always... thank u so much
You changed a tensor not a pulley
AutoZone has the Pulley it self for the belt tensioner Duralast part number 231133 just had to replace it cost me $18.99 plus tax
What else is new to b m w
good luck getting a hand in there
My man, my car just starting some noises and I believe it's coming from the upper pulleys. Would you recommend me to change them?
Ray.J determine exactly where the sound is. Remove the belt and spin the pulleys if you believe it's the pulley.
Mas Low Photography here's the thing, when I drive the car long distances (60 + miles) the sound stops. But when the engine cools down and I start the car it starts making it agin.
What ended up being the problem?
good lad
like it thanks for information
Why not just start the bolts by hand 🤦🏻♂️
Here is the number of the mechanical tensioner pulley that is being sold separatly 531 0760 10
I love you.
Not the best idea start threading bolts with that electrical ratchet tool. Better start by hand and then you can continue with it, if you don´t want to cry later with a damaged thread ;)
I know what I'm doing at this point ;-)
sure
Why.....
Why will nobody show how to get the fan off.
For fucks sake. It’s the only part I need and nobody shows it.
Great info otherwise. But it blows my mind how many people won’t show t
Hey man!!! Need help ASAP! My tensioners won’t go counter clockwise to be moved out of the way for the belt...it simply tightens and loosens... do the other bolts have to be off I’m confused PLEASE help.