This guy is the reason I got into detailing over 9 years ago, bought his book, never looked back since and always try to think outside the box to being more efficient and safe when detailing...
Just bought this machine... Additionally i have 3 tips for working on doors 1. I separate them, click the latch on the door to create a space to work safely to edges (pulling the handle releases the latch) , 2. If working the back door I open the front door so I can work to the edges also, 3. I'd work parallel to the body line just like Mr Phillips, Including the door handle, then divide the lower section into halves, I always try to work along a body line and not crossing against it that could potentially burn the edge
@@yuriy797 I ordered my 15mm flavor through Skysthelimit, I believe it was just under $700 for the kit with tool & 2x5ah batteries. If you have Flex tools or are in that eco system already the tool/polisher only options should be available soon from what I’ve seen at various retailers online, which could provide some savings depending on your individual situation/needs. I hope this helps.
I find that most detailers underwork the correction fluid or work at too high a machine speed, polishes/compund have 2 parts, the abrasive and the carrier, if you work the machine at a high speed the carrier burns out before the abrasives get a chance to do any major correction, instead work at around speed 3/4 at first, clean the pad and redure speed to 2/3 and do a pass before wiping off the polish, this would ensure a proper buff cycle (note that most polishes to date use diminishing abrasive technology, DOT)
Yeah, I'm having to acquire the taste for the color-change, but it's the least important factor to me. Thank you for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
Definitely like the 6 inch backing plate with these. My only gripe of the rotary is the max speed is a little low for using a pad washer and spinning out the pad. These polishers are all beasts. Also nice having the lifetime warranty. Both the rotary and the forced rotation came with 6 and 5 inch backing plates with mine.
I agree with the high-speed RPM for slinging out water when using a pad washer but I'm confident the engineers at FLEX gave it a minimum and maximum RPM for the function of a battery-operated tool as well as the most common use for this tool is for doing paint correction on modern clearcoats where you don't need super high RPM. Gelcoat is another situation, but I still show and use these for removing sanding marks out of gelcoat - but on the highest speed setting. The freedom of buffing out a boat (or a car), without using a tool with a power cord is really nice. Thank you for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
To be honest, I thought they already were available in Europe. I know they were shown first at the Automechanika show in Germany last summer. I'll contact FLEX and try to get you an answer. Thanks for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
@mikephillipsrealworlddetailing Looks like they are already here. But they still have the same look (red) And they have the 18v battery instead of the 24v.. so i am confused. But they should be stronger even with the 18v.. Strange
Thank you for sharing your polishing expertise-it's always greatly appreciated! I’m in need of some advice as I’m about to upgrade my equipment, aiming to make the purchase by Thanksgiving. Initially, I had my sights set on the new model from the Italian brand, but after attending SEMA, I’ve decided to go with Flex instead. I was set on getting the FX3321 random orbital with the upgraded 6-amp stacked batteries. However, after watching your videos and Nick’s from McKee's multiple times, I’ve started leaning toward the gear-driven FX3322. Now I’m torn between the two. A little background: I’m an auto detailer working out of a garage studio and a mobile van. About 30-40% of my work involves paint gloss enhancement or correction, but I plan to increase that number since I focus on reconditioning vehicles. Since I’m not as young as I’d like to be, factors like weight, noise, vibration, and balance are particularly important. I know you’re more inclined toward rotary or gear-driven machines, but if I asked you to take an unbiased approach, which would you recommend based on the details I’ve provided? For reference, I currently work with a random orbital.
You indirectly answered your own question. Since you own a random orbital, get the gear driven. There’s a reason why the GOAT, Mike Phillips, chooses it as his first weapon of choice unless there’s really severe defects then it’s the rotary first followed by the gear driven 2nd. And for what it’s worth, I own two gear driven flex polishers and a DA polisher. Gear driven every time unless it’s super soft paint, then it’s the DA. And you’ll appreciate that the gear driven tool doesn’t stall which means your saving time with each detail and time equals money. But for sure follow Mike’s guidance. He’s used every tool in the book.
@@jamess.7415 I realize I should have been more specific. This purchase is actually meant to replace my current random orbital rather than adding to my "arsenal." My main concern isn’t really about stalling, as that’s rarely an issue with my random orbital. What I’d really like to know, in addition to my earlier questions, is whether the cutting power of the gear-driven model is significant enough to justify the potentially longer time it might take to complete a job. My understanding is that the 15mm throw of the random orbital allows for faster coverage but is less effective compared to the 8mm throw of the gear-driven. But is the difference substantial enough to make it worthwhile?
I just read through your original question and the follow-up replies by Jamess.7415 and then yourself. Here's the deal. When using ANY brand or type of free spinning random orbital polisher, you're always going to fight the issue of pad stalling. It's just a fact. Besides making it take longer to do paint correction; you also have the issue of BRAIN DRAIN. Brain Drain is when you mark the side of a backing plate and/or buffing pad to make it EASIER for your EYES to see if the buffing pad is in fact rotating and oscillating. In theory this means for the entire time you're buffing out the car you MUST LOOK and SEE if the pad is rotating/oscillating or simply stalling out. I call this brain drain and I for one simply don't use these types of tools very often for this reason. I like to go fast when I do any machine paint correction, thus I primary use rotary polishes and the ORGINAL FLEX BEAST because the original BEAST has the highest OPMs and the highest RPMs. Thus you can plow through a paint correction as fast as humanly possible while maintaining pro-grade results. Throw in a simple 8mm Porter Cable and you can tackle just about anything. Thanks for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
I truly appreciate your feedback-it means so much! It seems I made the right choice. I’ve ordered the gear-driven polisher and can’t wait to start using it!
@@jamess.7415 - Yup, if I can use the BEAST, then it's Go Time! If a rotary is faster, then I start with rotary. If the paint is soft or I'm working on clear plastics, I go with a simple Porter Cable 7424XP. Use the right tool for the job. Thanks for watching AND commenting. -Mike Phillips
Yes. I hear people tell me all the time that they don't like that the FLEX family of 8mm gear-driven tools because they buffing pads spins counterclockwise instead of clockwise like a rotary polisher. What this means is due to the power you get with a gear-driven orbital polisher, if you don't hold the pad flat to the surface, you'll feel the tool pulling in any certain direction. This pulling is the POWER. Free spinning random orbital polishers don't pull like this or *"walk"* like this and that's because they don't have the same power. The other comment I hear is, *I like the RUPES Mille because the buffing pad spins clockwise* This is accurate and the same rules apply, if you don't hold the pad flat to the surface, the RUPES Mille will pull or walk in a certain direction. So, no matter which direction the buffing pad is spinning, due to the extra power provided by gear-driven orbitals, they are all going to pull or walk to some degree. There's also the comment where people that like prefer the buffing pad to rotate clockwise are basically saying, *I like this tool because it pulls me this direction* So kind of silly. One of the characteristics of a gear-driven orbital is it is going to have the *walking-effect* or the pulling characteristics - it doesn't matter which direction the pad is spinning. And for the record, ALL of the FLEX 8mm gear-driven orbital polishers spin the buffing pad counterclockwise. This includes, The BEAST The Supa BEAST The CBEAST and the newest version of the original CBEAST, the 24 volt CBEAST. Thanks for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
This guy is the reason I got into detailing over 9 years ago, bought his book, never looked back since and always try to think outside the box to being more efficient and safe when detailing...
Wow! It's always rewarding to read comments like yours. Thank you for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
Just bought this machine... Additionally i have 3 tips for working on doors 1. I separate them, click the latch on the door to create a space to work safely to edges (pulling the handle releases the latch) , 2. If working the back door I open the front door so I can work to the edges also, 3. I'd work parallel to the body line just like Mr Phillips, Including the door handle, then divide the lower section into halves, I always try to work along a body line and not crossing against it that could potentially burn the edge
Great tips. I just used all these tips on a 1935 Chevy 3-Window Coupe Streetrod.
-Mike
The Flex Legend! Just got my 24V 15mm and put up my first impressions. Correcting an FL5 Type R this weekend and it’s killer so far.
Enjoy!
Thank you for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
How much did you pay for this tool?
@@yuriy797 I ordered my 15mm flavor through Skysthelimit, I believe it was just under $700 for the kit with tool & 2x5ah batteries. If you have Flex tools or are in that eco system already the tool/polisher only options should be available soon from what I’ve seen at various retailers online, which could provide some savings depending on your individual situation/needs. I hope this helps.
@@yuriy797 - This particular tool retails for just under $700.00 and this includes the batteries, 2 batteries, a storage case and the charger.
-Mike
@@mikephillipsrealworlddetailing 😂 Cheap 😂
I find that most detailers underwork the correction fluid or work at too high a machine speed, polishes/compund have 2 parts, the abrasive and the carrier, if you work the machine at a high speed the carrier burns out before the abrasives get a chance to do any major correction, instead work at around speed 3/4 at first, clean the pad and redure speed to 2/3 and do a pass before wiping off the polish, this would ensure a proper buff cycle (note that most polishes to date use diminishing abrasive technology, DOT)
Good info, thanks for sharing. -Mike
Great review mike!!! 👍🏻🇨🇦
Thank you for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
great stuff.🤔👍👍👍👍👍
Thanks for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
I’m a wee bit torn on the new colors. They could have at least put a red racing stripe down the center. Anyway, Flex is the best!
Yeah, I'm having to acquire the taste for the color-change, but it's the least important factor to me.
Thank you for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
Great review
Thank you sir!
Thank you for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
Definitely like the 6 inch backing plate with these. My only gripe of the rotary is the max speed is a little low for using a pad washer and spinning out the pad. These polishers are all beasts. Also nice having the lifetime warranty. Both the rotary and the forced rotation came with 6 and 5 inch backing plates with mine.
I agree with the high-speed RPM for slinging out water when using a pad washer but I'm confident the engineers at FLEX gave it a minimum and maximum RPM for the function of a battery-operated tool as well as the most common use for this tool is for doing paint correction on modern clearcoats where you don't need super high RPM. Gelcoat is another situation, but I still show and use these for removing sanding marks out of gelcoat - but on the highest speed setting. The freedom of buffing out a boat (or a car), without using a tool with a power cord is really nice.
Thank you for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
When will they be available in europe? Cant wait! Greetings from Belgium 💪🏻
To be honest, I thought they already were available in Europe. I know they were shown first at the Automechanika show in Germany last summer. I'll contact FLEX and try to get you an answer.
Thanks for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
@mikephillipsrealworlddetailing Looks like they are already here.
But they still have the same look (red)
And they have the 18v battery instead of the 24v.. so i am confused.
But they should be stronger even with the 18v..
Strange
Thank you for sharing your polishing expertise-it's always greatly appreciated! I’m in need of some advice as I’m about to upgrade my equipment, aiming to make the purchase by Thanksgiving. Initially, I had my sights set on the new model from the Italian brand, but after attending SEMA, I’ve decided to go with Flex instead.
I was set on getting the FX3321 random orbital with the upgraded 6-amp stacked batteries. However, after watching your videos and Nick’s from McKee's multiple times, I’ve started leaning toward the gear-driven FX3322. Now I’m torn between the two.
A little background: I’m an auto detailer working out of a garage studio and a mobile van. About 30-40% of my work involves paint gloss enhancement or correction, but I plan to increase that number since I focus on reconditioning vehicles. Since I’m not as young as I’d like to be, factors like weight, noise, vibration, and balance are particularly important.
I know you’re more inclined toward rotary or gear-driven machines, but if I asked you to take an unbiased approach, which would you recommend based on the details I’ve provided? For reference, I currently work with a random orbital.
You indirectly answered your own question. Since you own a random orbital, get the gear driven. There’s a reason why the GOAT, Mike Phillips, chooses it as his first weapon of choice unless there’s really severe defects then it’s the rotary first followed by the gear driven 2nd.
And for what it’s worth, I own two gear driven flex polishers and a DA polisher. Gear driven every time unless it’s super soft paint, then it’s the DA.
And you’ll appreciate that the gear driven tool doesn’t stall which means your saving time with each detail and time equals money.
But for sure follow Mike’s guidance. He’s used every tool in the book.
@@jamess.7415 I realize I should have been more specific. This purchase is actually meant to replace my current random orbital rather than adding to my "arsenal." My main concern isn’t really about stalling, as that’s rarely an issue with my random orbital.
What I’d really like to know, in addition to my earlier questions, is whether the cutting power of the gear-driven model is significant enough to justify the potentially longer time it might take to complete a job. My understanding is that the 15mm throw of the random orbital allows for faster coverage but is less effective compared to the 8mm throw of the gear-driven. But is the difference substantial enough to make it worthwhile?
I just read through your original question and the follow-up replies by Jamess.7415 and then yourself.
Here's the deal. When using ANY brand or type of free spinning random orbital polisher, you're always going to fight the issue of pad stalling. It's just a fact. Besides making it take longer to do paint correction; you also have the issue of BRAIN DRAIN. Brain Drain is when you mark the side of a backing plate and/or buffing pad to make it EASIER for your EYES to see if the buffing pad is in fact rotating and oscillating. In theory this means for the entire time you're buffing out the car you MUST LOOK and SEE if the pad is rotating/oscillating or simply stalling out. I call this brain drain and I for one simply don't use these types of tools very often for this reason.
I like to go fast when I do any machine paint correction, thus I primary use rotary polishes and the ORGINAL FLEX BEAST because the original BEAST has the highest OPMs and the highest RPMs. Thus you can plow through a paint correction as fast as humanly possible while maintaining pro-grade results. Throw in a simple 8mm Porter Cable and you can tackle just about anything.
Thanks for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
I truly appreciate your feedback-it means so much! It seems I made the right choice. I’ve ordered the gear-driven polisher and can’t wait to start using it!
@@jamess.7415 - Yup, if I can use the BEAST, then it's Go Time! If a rotary is faster, then I start with rotary. If the paint is soft or I'm working on clear plastics, I go with a simple Porter Cable 7424XP.
Use the right tool for the job.
Thanks for watching AND commenting. -Mike Phillips
Does this model still spin counterclockwise?
Yes. I hear people tell me all the time that they don't like that the FLEX family of 8mm gear-driven tools because they buffing pads spins counterclockwise instead of clockwise like a rotary polisher. What this means is due to the power you get with a gear-driven orbital polisher, if you don't hold the pad flat to the surface, you'll feel the tool pulling in any certain direction. This pulling is the POWER. Free spinning random orbital polishers don't pull like this or *"walk"* like this and that's because they don't have the same power.
The other comment I hear is,
*I like the RUPES Mille because the buffing pad spins clockwise*
This is accurate and the same rules apply, if you don't hold the pad flat to the surface, the RUPES Mille will pull or walk in a certain direction. So, no matter which direction the buffing pad is spinning, due to the extra power provided by gear-driven orbitals, they are all going to pull or walk to some degree.
There's also the comment where people that like prefer the buffing pad to rotate clockwise are basically saying,
*I like this tool because it pulls me this direction*
So kind of silly. One of the characteristics of a gear-driven orbital is it is going to have the *walking-effect* or the pulling characteristics - it doesn't matter which direction the pad is spinning.
And for the record, ALL of the FLEX 8mm gear-driven orbital polishers spin the buffing pad counterclockwise. This includes,
The BEAST
The Supa BEAST
The CBEAST
and the newest version of the original CBEAST, the 24 volt CBEAST.
Thanks for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
Great review
Thanks for watching and commenting Humberto! -Mike Phillips