MORE Crazy 1mm Nozzle Experiments - Hairy Lion in 7hrs!
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- Опубліковано 28 вер 2024
- Fitting a large nozzle is something every 3D Printing enthusiast should try! In this video I'll show you the pros and cons to using a 1mm nozzle and how I used it to print the popular hairy lion model at 300% scale in 7 hours.
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That's no hairy lion, that's a rasta lion man :p
lol
No, that's PASTA Lion, man!
Angus, now you really need to reprint the hairly lion using some protopasta filament... then you can call it pasta lion, mon :)
snoop lion
A Rasta-Monsta! :p that crap gives you wings!
I want to thank you for sharing your knowledge and experiences with the community. I have learned a lot by watching videos like this one. People like you make life easier for others and inspire others to follow suit.
I totally agree.
Angus how many of those classy cat models do you think you've printed ? Lol
So many that I know it's called the Gayer Anderson Cat
Erik Bradstreet well I’ve printed 562 mini vans
Point of advice: Linear Advance is paramount to getting nice quality with large nozzles.
**PTSD flash backs to full metal alchemist**
nooooooooooo
Too soon... Its been 10 years and its too soon...
Took me a while to figure that out, haha
NOOOOOOO NINA!!!!!
Too soon man
That black matte PLA looks great. Low poly mask is looking great.
After loosing my previous printer in a fire decided to get a resin printer for my first step back into the space after a while. And man it's insane I'm absolutely loving the quality I can get on this thing. Got some new resin colours coming in and I'm going to see if there's some way you can layer colours in the vat. Wondering if I can get a sorta tie dye effect going on.
Well I tried it and seems that mixing different colour resins of the same brand and type results in some really crappy prints. No idea why.
To get custom nozzle sizes in cura I had to install the "printer settings" addon.
Cura does DLCs now?!
Spent the last two weeks cranking out parts that I should wouldn't have had time for without larger nozzles. The time saved is definitely worth the price of a set of assorted sizes. Some other notes:
- It also helped to cut off fixed lengths of filament and time how long it takes manually push them through the hot end under gentle but consistent pressure to get a sense of how much more volume throughput you can get at higher temperatures. This results in added stringing but is invaluable for cranking out quick test prints with the larger nozzles...just keep the rasps and flush cutters handy.
- cut a washer out of silicone or teflon sheet to seal between the nozzle and heating block. This mitigates surprise leaks if you're swapping nozzles a lot. Selecting nozzles with wider hex profiles help squeeze the seal too. I think I used a drill bit for the centre hole and a paper hole punch to make nice consistent washer disks.
- when swapping, make sure to only twist the nozzle against to heating block and not the rest of the assembly which could damage bearings or loosen other parts of the assembly. I ended up using a small hex socket and adjustable wrench to really control what was being torqued.
YEAH BRING THAT HAIRY LION BACK!
youre a legend
When you haven’t showered in 10 days
Or the homeless hairy lion
Very cool findings. I tried 1mm nozzle that came with my Anycubic Mega-s and i had mixed results, had some gaps on a large print project i am working on. So I switched back to the stock nozzle. Fun to try and speed up my prints a crazy amount but not practical for my use case.
To manually input nozzle diameter in Cura 4.3 is the same as before, go to Settings > Printer > Manage Printers, pick your printer and click Machine Settings > Hot End tab > Nozzle size. 👍
That is so cool thank you for doing that and I definitely agree I can’t imagine why so many 3-D printers with a larger print area come with a Standard size print nozzles
This would be good for creating parts designed to be sanded or machined to final dimensions and would probably be smoother when done
I wonder how well cura's 'adaptive layer height' would work with such a nozzle.
Hairy Lion: Cousin It Version...
Drill, simple and efficient👍
Thanks for sharing👍😀
I don’t do any 3-D printing but I love watching your videos
Would love newer 1mm videos. I'm just started printing about 4 months ago and immediately upgraded my sidewinder x1. V4 to a hemera with a SuperVolcano. I'm printing huge models and can quite get the settings right
*_Symba was a rebel without a cause._*
I love your esk8! I’ve got the same one
Thankfully Cura 4.4 brought back the textbox for nozzle size.
I am working on 3d printed parts for my 3018 cnc and just brought a 0.8mm nozzle thinking this would print stronger, now I am now so sure it will work.
Check out CNC Kitchen's channel for test of strength of prints from different nozzle sizes.
@@Graham_Wideman yes I did and I also watched the annealing Tests. I have htpla V3 and I tried it at 110 with good results, but warping was enough that I am not going to do
It's the Bob Marley of Hairy Lions! 😃👌
Perhaps you should try PETG since it requires less cooling
I don't know, 3D printing nerd is definitely no hair stylist! Side by side, yours isn't looking to bad! xD
Jk jk love you both!
Very creative! I am curious if any of the issues you faced were due to the home-made nature of your nozzle being drilled out.
Not getting the diameter spot on probably doesn't help, but reliable flow at such a large size is definitely crucial.
Cool video, I did a hairy lion few months back on my anycubic predator maxed the scale out and it printed using a 0.8mm nozzle and 0.4lh and that came out really well.
Any way great video yet again.
dual extruder setup with 0.4 and 1mm nozzle?
I am pretty sure that one can nozzle size and adjust the extrusion width (thats how I have done it all this time and it has worked up to 0.8mm nozzles). At least in S3D the nozzle size only adjusts extrusion width and I guess cura does the same.
With respect to the nozzle diameter, does that setting even do anything? As far as I know, everything the slicer actually outputs depends only on the various linewidths.
I use a .8 all the time on my CR-10 but do .2 mm layer heights, yeah it's not as fast as .6 mm would be but with far fewer parameters, you still get a very high quality print in most instances. And because you can usually get a way with one perimeter, it's still a lot faster.
I wonder how accurate and fast a printer with a nozzle array would be?
Did I miss it? How long did it take to print the lion? Compare the time with a 0.4mm nozzle.
BTW, LOVE your channel. thanks for all you do for the community.
I'm new to 3D printing.. that's a very cool trick for making hair.
Another approach I've seen is to print a bunch of unsupported horizontal radial lines. The sagging that occurs when the nozzle makes the trip back to the center winds up making a long loop that rests on the loops below it. Saw it on a pine tree model a couple years ago.
Volcano with custom 1mm or 0.8mm airbrush nozzle and beasty cooling fans should give pretty good results and is on my shortlist of mods to try out 🙃
Question, Printing on brand new Flashforge Creator Pro (NOVICE LEARNING), Using ABS on right extruder and PVA on left extruder for water soluable supports. How can i set the print bed to to accommodate both types of filament? The ABS is set to 110 on the bed but the PVA is saying up to 60 max is needed? how do i do this? Thank You Rob C.
ok so if were talking mods here, may i suggest longer rails on a delta printer? i heard about someone putting 1.5 meter long rails on the anycubic predator
In Cura 4.4.0 you can enter the nozzle size in mm. No more drop down menu from which to select one of a fixed set of nozzle diameters. You worked out the actual nozzle diameter was more like 0.95mm instead of 1mm. Did you print a retraction calibration object? I would hazard a guess that the retraction settings would need to be tweaked somewhat for that large diameter nozzle. It would be interesting to see how that might affect the quality of the prints.
I know it wasn’t intended, but that explosion effect on the black cat looked pretty cool regardless
I've been using a 0.8mm nossle for my more chunky functional prints. The only problem I'm having is tuning out the questionable binding of the solid fill layers to the outer perimeters. I just can't seem to close the gaps to my liking.
A cool project would be to print candy. I wonder if a jolly rancher loader for the print head would be hard to make.
Hi Angus I've been debating getting a 3D printer for nearly a year. I have settled on getting a Resin 3D printer like the Photon S because of my passion for mineatures.
Do you know of any changes happening in 2020 that would make it wiser for me to wait.
Are there any newer printers, software, materials etc. that would make it easier, cheaper for me to wait a few months before hopping into 3D printing.
I live in Canada (if that matters) and I'm speaking purely as someone who would like to become a hobbyist.
Resin printers are at a great price point now, I wouldn't hold off... Just be mindful of the safety considerations with resin!
I like printing with 1mm using my tevo little monster however I find layer adhesion to be tricky... Especially big prints with little infill are feels brittle compared to same kind of model with more thinner layers I find so far. Any hints on improving that? I was thinking perhaps heated chamber with less cooling seeing how I'm already printing PLA at 235 to output that much plastic... I think slowing down helped with layer adhesion maybe? I look forward to experimenting printing ABS with that 1mm nozzle but need few more upgrades still :-/
EDIT: WOAH! Thanks for making me discover CNC KITCHEN! This dude is amazing... Answered all my questions about layer adhesion when using big nozzles and then some! Freaking awesome :-)
I just change the line width when I change the nozzle, not much difference in terms of failing causes if there's any. Ender-3 often comes with e-steps lower than actual extruded length, I think this caused knots/bumps in infills that may crash with the nozzle, gets extremely bumpy the higher the print goes and eventually print failure due to skipped steps in x/y. not mentioning that the walls often had underextrusion in the start, whether that's due to glooping or that lack of extra flow from the anemic e-steps, specially true when using larger nozzle.
For boxy stuff (electronics mounting boxes), would the thick layers work, or give you really crappy corners, screw holes, etc.?
What's the fan duct used here?
Whatever did happen to vangaurd anyway?
He either has very bad hair or he's got dreadlocks
A "Wire" printed shape with your big nozzle would be interesting.
it's not the worst hairy lion! he just having dreads
That hairy lion reminds me way too much of the chimera in Full Metal Alchemist. Harkening back to my childhood nightmares just in time to usher in Christmas! #loveandcheerandyourworstfears
Why would I drill out a 1mm nozzle when I can buy one? THough I am hoping to get a set of nozzles going from .2 to 1mm for Christmas.
I just ordered a 0.2 mm and 1.0 mm nozzle. I want to print out a remote holder, and are not willing to wait half a day before it completes. The 1 mm nozzle slashes away 7 hours of printing time.
i always wonder if is there any option in any slicer, that for example on 3 outline perimeters print at 0.3mm and infill print at 1mm layer heght ! In simplify 3d i have not locate something similar to this
PANTELIS k If I’m not mistaken, prusa slicer can do something similar. Add a modifier using a scaled down version of your part, and change your layer height in the modifier.
@@dogman8339 i think it's time to try pursa slicer ,tnxx
Just buy a kit on amazon, been testing with all sorts of sizes and really like the .6mm balance between speed and quality!
I used a .6mm nozzle and was pleased with the speed an quality but the layer adhesion was so poor I could break the prints apart far too easily.
Try less cooling, worked for me
What speeds were you printing at? You may have been over the maximum cm^3/s of material for the hotend, which may have affected your quality.
Gooday from SF. Thought I'd ask if you're still putting any time into laser stuff..?
4:40 you are the real front man
We need a double nozzle printer that use both 1mm nozzle with 0.4mm to print faster while printing the details with the smaller one
3:00 that’s a chonky Benchy
You can increase your line width to 1mm. I die that and it wirkend perfectly with a 0,8mm nozzle:)
Heads up, setting your nozzle size in your slicer doesn’t really matter as it’s not used to calculate anything except for some sanity checks. I regularly swap nozzles from .4 to 1.2 and never bother to change the nozzle dia in slicer, changing line width and layer height is enough
Nice ANGUS
Need to make dialateable nozzels.
Boardgames to. Sweet!
soooo what are your thoughts on the nova hot end?
What brand of shirt is that, I like the logo
Ya Mon Rasta!
Interesting.
Sorry to say so, but with tweaking and linear advance, variable width you could print with the larger nozzle with much higher quality and the same print time. So, please give it an other look with more technical approach.
cool!
Great
that one hair over the face makes the lion look anime
print something with ABS wit the 1mm nozzle and try to smooth it with acetone
What printer where you using?
I Made an 2mm vulcano nozzle and got some amazing looking results.
GOTH LION!
Hey Angus, how do I find the right settings for my 3D printer? Is it by trial and error?
Trial and error. But what problems are you experiencing with settings?
@@barracuda6817 everything is good, but I can't figure out the difference between the nozel size and the layer height.
@@Jawad_Alhakeem Ok most printers come at a .4mm nozzle. Usually we don't set layer height at .4mm because it may clog. .1-.25mm is where you should be in layer height. Finer layer height = finer detail.
@@barracuda6817Thanks, I really appreciate it.
Awsome!
That cat looks like a creature out of Princess Mononoke.
if you want to drill more precise you can use a reamer. 1mm should not be that expensive
Slicers don't need to know the exact nozzle diameter. A 0.05mm difference is definitely irrelevant you could have just set 1.0 and called it a day and it would not have made any difference. I don't know why that's even a setting. The setting should just say bead width and the user would ideally choose a nozzle with an orifice that's a little bit smaller than the slicer's bead width setting.
Angus, the Vlad Impaler of Creativity in 2020, don't miss the November Elections in the US
Make Huge Nozzles Handy Again
Yeah, you would think in this day and age, that any printer over $300 dollars should come with 2x .4mm, .6mm, .8mm and 1.0mm nozzles. People NEED CHOICES!!!! Why do these companies not understand that by now???
@4:38 is it just me or does the mask look like Elon Musk
CyberMusk?
😂😂😂😂
Elon Mask? =)
Pour faire un Bon Marley 😎✌️🤘🤙
I'm using 1.0 or 1.2 nozzle with 0.2 layer hight not 0.6 . This is stupid. And Parts are printing faster and stronger than 0,4 and 3 layers
printing spaghetti lol
He's got dreads mon.
Hold it upside down for initial hot air gun forming...
Cura went downhill from 4.1 on.
Snoop lion
Angus:
- at 0.4 mm he is handsome
- at 1.0 mm he is LOLsome 04:41
LOL 💝
proper dready lion :v
One of most interesting materials about 3d printing, something different than this ultraperfect hyper long prints that still are not perfect, maybe its only a necesity to adjust the models to diferent materiall properties... and what about clay? :D
this ,,hairy lion,, wookls like after wery HARD party
Edward.....Ed -nina
Pretty nifty.