Oh yes, US OD was a semi-gloss enamel that was baked on in those ovens. The "oven" looks so big like a tunnel so they can do many tanks at once. You can still see chipping on high wear areas like hatch edges but it's usually pretty refined....and boring :) but chip-less tanks aren't cool... It's not like powder coating on bikes; since those are just held on electrostatically until they're cured which bakes them into a sort of shell. The OD is an enamel paint so it actually binds onto the surface more like any normal paint. "Standard Catalog of U.S. Military Vehicles" by Doyle has some of the best info on OD.
Just use your reference photos. For example I saw that on modern LAV vehicles theres a little chipping, and the undercoat was white. One presumes that modern paint is tougher, and modern vehicles in peacetime are better maintained.
@@orbitalair2103 oh modern armour get beat up really bad. But I guess it helps when the typical modern tank survives much longer than 4 weeks to a few months as most WWII stuff did.
@@orbitalair2103 overall I would say that the painting techniques are much better today than they were in WWII and unit for unit a lot more time and money is put into it. During WWII they would experiment just how little paint they physically needed to put on simply to save time and resources. You will see wear spots on high traffic areas of a modern tank but I find it much less apparent than on references photos of WWII ones.
@@Javo2491 ...gloss coat? no. OD had a semi gloss finish itself. Smoother finish results in less wear. That is why cars are shiny and not matte-finished. The colour is "A/N 319 Olive Drab , I.M.S (improved moisture sealant), slight gloss".
I know Im asking the wrong place but does anybody know of a tool to get back into an Instagram account?? I stupidly forgot my account password. I would love any assistance you can offer me.
My father's older brother (my uncle) worked at General Motors during WWII (yes, I am THAT old). We had almost this same discussion many, many years ago. The gist of it was this. Although they made Shermans as quickly as they could; all of them were properly primed and painted. There was no immediate urgency as to speed of manufacture as the war was thousands of miles away. Unlike in Germany and Russia where on a great many occasions, tank crews picked up their vehicle and went straight to the battlefield. Yes, Shermans did chip and wear; just not to the extreme that other vehicles did. Proper priming and painting was sometimes circumvented or totally absent in Europe as the war drug on. Personally, if I am doing a Sherman I AM going to chip and weather it. I just keep it toned down a bit. Nevertheless, outstanding video; as always. Hope the above is of some use. Good job!
I love the weathering you do Nightshift. The effort is insane and I cant wait to see the final result. I'm only 14 and I have 7 WW2 models. Your videos are helping me a lot!
@@professionalmrmeatspeedrun4554, yeah I was thinking about doing Soviet tanks. I have German, American, and British tanks. Idk if I have enough room to add another shelf on the wall for the Russians. Probably in the future though.
Model making is something you will do for the rest of your life so just enjoy it no rush It good to see new blood I was starting to feel as if we were among the last to go
Martin, congratulations on 100K subscribers! Even though I have not built anything for a couple of years, and have never built an armor model (I mostly built automotive subjects), I was very impressed not only by your skill and technique, but your demeanor and attitude toward the hobby. I thoroughly enjoy your content and have learned quite a bit from your great videos. In the unlikely event I ever start building again, I think I can definitely apply some of the knowledge I have gained by watching you. Thank you very much for sharing your passion with all of us, and continued success!
i admire your knowledge and talent. Its always good to see how others do builds. I just got into this hobby and although i plan to do some painting, i wont be getting into such detail. It will be just me that sees no art show or movie set and i have already dropped $350 on a hobby i dont even know if i like or not. So no excessive detail for me, at least not now.
Hello Night Shift, I love your videos and your funny comments and humor expecially. Thank you that you show us this and other "easy" technics. Since i watch your vidios my skill in building models is much better and I have a much higher claim for me and my modells. Don't stop it, PLEASE!
Hey Uncle Night Shift! I wanna ask you, if you're gonna make a tank with interior in the future? Would be really interesting, how you would texture and chip the whole interior! I know, I know; you got enough projects to do... Thats why I am asking. Btw: I am building an old Matchbox M4A3 Sherman in 1:72 scale! Nice video as always! Helped me a lot with my Sherman! Greetings from Germany!
Interior models are not really my thing, most of the time you can barely see inside and I don't like presenting them "disassembled" just to show the insides. I've got one kit with full interior in my stash that I'd like to build this year, so please don't take it too seriously when I throw the entire interior in the trash :D
@@NightShiftScaleModels Yeah, I can understand you... Got a Panther in 1:35 scale with Full Interior, but the Painting in the Building instruction was completely wrong. I did'nt know that before, that it was wrong. After I found out, I tried to repaint the whole interior and besides, I destroyed the interior with it...
Thanks for uploading. It's very politely work as usual. And I got a lot from this video. Especially, some colors that's blending are very interesting. Also I'm looking forward to watch next !!!
Hey Martin. You are insane man!!! I am amazed by your work. You are the reason I switched from my only love , the aviation and I building the sherman copying your techniques because I was inspired by your work.. You are making it look so easy. Keep'em coming. Cant wait for the next one.
Popular Mechanics Dec 1940 The automobile industry is employing large numbers of infra-red lamps, Ford using more than 10,000 on a variety of operations, such as the drying of priming coats of paint, first-coat enamel, some finish enamel and repair enamel. In the River Rouge plant is a ninety-foot tunnel containing 4,800 drying lamps of 260 watts each, with which a priming coat of paint on an auto body may be dried in ten or fifteen minutes, compared to one hour by older methods.
Amazing work as usual, i back to the hobby after some 30 years. I can't believe all the new products. I've been trying to find out where to buy Wilder products in Canada but not having any luck. I've asked a few others and seemed to be dismissed by their answers. Have you ever made a video just starting at a very basic level and showed progression and tools used?. Maybe you can call it modeling for newbs ... lol Anyway enjoy your day ,your workmanship is amazing👍🇨🇦👍
@@___j____6643 Well you keep typing out Night Shift for your reasons, and I'll keep shortening it to NS for my reasons and we're all happy. What do you think about me shortening Uncle Night Shift to UNS? I bet you have reasons for not doing it.
Sherman tanks with the longer 76 were often camouflaged at the end of the barrel because german tankers were afraid of its higher pen. I recommend you research this and maybe consider doing this.
Extra context- this was because those Shermans were targeted by the German crews. They could go through some German tanks and thus posed a higher threat.
AKs weathering pencils are brilliant for blending and streaking and for dust effects just sitting on tops of of things it's hard to explain but it's just so natural! I use them more now than oils! I weathered 2 models with only weathering pencils to just get used to them and really just how to apply them the best way! Using them like a pencil though is definitely going to be everyone's first mistake and throwing them aside never to use them again thinking there rubbish! I did lol but I then gave them a go as I have 4 different sets and not cheap! I found the best way to use them is to sharpen the tips to a long point the dust and streaking sets the best the concrete pencil is a really nice effect too! I use that and the buff for the dust! Anyway back to it, lol sharpen them right up well just along exposed tip all laying down flat and using your paintbrush dipped in water softening up the tips of the pencils get them going you'll leave a wee groove through them but just paint them on in streaks to dot fillers and wait till they dry abitty before going back to either blend in steak rust dirt dust etc waw if I could show you the pak 43 I weathered up and chipped theres a chipping set too! You'd be shocked at how good they are!
In the future, you should do concrete armor with abrasion and battle damage, so that you immediately recognize it as concrete (still looks great even when it's unblemished as it is here).
Those modelers are thinking about powder coat paint, which was invented in 1945 so it couldn't be used on all US vechicles, just those produced in the last months of the war. Furthermore it couldn't be used because baking whole finished tank in oven would destroy any rubber elements and electrical wire isolation. This all is not important anyway because powder coat paint still chips, even more than regular solvent paint, because if you scratch it, over time rust develops on the surface of the steel around the scratch and the paint falls off in large chunks. Powder coat is basically a plastic powder that you spray on the thing, it holds on to the thing just by electrostatics, so you have to bake it on an oven to make it a uniform coat. EDIT: Oh, I wrote this comment before you said you worked there :D. It's awesome that you clarified it in the video. You are the first person that I heard that correctly described powder coat properties, I thought that I was alone in this world with this.
I think many weathering processes darken a tank over time. If one starts out too dark, it can be hard to lighten up and the contrast is lost. Especially as vehicles smaller than the real thing should be lighter than the real thing (as if you were viewing it from far away). I've often herd of olive drab referred to as a black and yellow mix. So if one were to scale down the color and make it less dark, I can understand why many comments are saying it is too light or too yellow. But I venture to guess that after additional effects, this will darken up nicely into the darker OD green we'd expect. I love the color contrast of the pre dusting (light tan) and the wet mud (brown texture). And as much of it will get painted over anyway, it is a great technique to check out the general colors ahead of time to see what works and what does not
Great video as always and I think it'd be interesting if he did a tank that was knocked out due to a cook-off of the ammunition. But that might just be me, and I think a Russian tank like T-34-76 would be accurate to do it on as they never really had armored ammunition storage.
Everytime I see one of your videos I just want to see more! Keep it up! But also, have you considered doing a video only using paint brushes and maybe spray paint (rattle can), for those who wish to follow along that don't have access to an airbrush? I think it would be well received!
OD did fade into very light tones. Airplanes are a great example, but of course this isn't a plane... I included one ref picture in the previous episode showing how light it could get. Have a few more in my Sherman folder, however another reason I always go for a very light base coat is simply because it's easier to weather and it makes the model look bigger. Also, it's much easier to look at the finished model in real life under natural light conditions, as every effect pops up :)
You are an awesome inspiration for us modelers. Thank you for what you do! I know you were talking about taking on new/bigger projects. Ever think of 1/16 tanks or any panzer Commander figures? Would love to is a 1946 what if Panther some day ;)
12:50 US Armor Was powder coated and, powder coating prevents rust and chipping. Powder Coating used later on cars during the 60s and they still use it today. but it is dangerous to thick pieces of metal cause the process they heat the metal up and apply the powder to the surface and then it drys, so the metal might crack. Th US airbrushes there tanks but, aviation vehicles are still being powder coated along with cars.
If you wanna do realistic rust wash on a bigger model, mix thin transparent wash with fine rust powder or just simply mix rust powder with enamel thinner, so it sticks it onto the paint. While it is still wet, it won't seem much, but when it dries, the iron-oxide grains stick to one another in a fashion that they create a real layer of rust, which even has a good pattern. Care must be taken, it can get thick, that is why I said to try on a bigger model, however if you want to make a burnt out wreck, then it will do an absolutely FABULOUS job! If you are unfamiliar with this cheapskate technique, I advise getting a piece of plastic, paint it some color, and then try it out on that surface, experiment untill you get it right. By the way, rust powder, you can make it by getting a piece of steel or iron, and put it under water for a night, by the morning, it'll have a nice coat of rust. You file the rust down with a nail filer or sandpaper into a little container, like a little jar or something. If the surface of the piece of iron or steel is smooth, not rusty, and still intact, use a nail filer or a sandpaper to damage its surface a bit so the water can attack it to create rust. Also, goes without saying, try not to use rust-free steel.
Sherman recipe calls for baking at 350 degrees for 30 minutes followed by a dusting of powdered sugar... :) Yes, American armor chipped, all paint will chip.
In the 100K video, you were talking about possible models and all the genres people want you to build... I'm gonna throw one in the mix that *might* appeal.... How about Maschinen Krieger? [aka Ma.K] Seems like a logical step - if people want you to do sci-fi or gundam - to do some sort of robot genre where military modelling paint techniques would work really well. It is actually really good fun to do Ma.K now and again - coz you can paint, weather and rust the hell out of it and noone can tell you you're wrong.
Car paint is baked on. Still chips though. Tanks aren't exactly trailer queens. They experience some pretty rough treatment. Paint can only handle so much.
I normally don't try to defend a build, or the procedures and techniques I use - it's MY model and I will paint and weather it MY way (feel free to provide some feedback though, just be gentle, lol). I do prefer 'artistic' over 'realistic', models are a 3D rendering and I find this approach more interesting. I will offer my advice as well but I would never be arrogant enough to think my opinion is more important than yours - we call those people 'rivet counters'.
Fantastic paint job so far, but I feel the mix of OD you made up is a bit too light. By the end of the video, it looks like one of the tanks you'd see at outdoor displays rather than being a few weeks/months old in combat, especially with the amount of rust/chipping. The darker OD we see on original surviving examples today have been baked under the sun for 70+ years, so it turns to that lighter color you've got on now. I've a collection of original Jerry cans from the war that don't nearly have the amount of rust you have on yours. While not impervious, US paint jobs back then were a touch more durable than now so you should tone down the rust and heavy chipping a bit.
Dust and mud tones always tone down about 30-50% of chipping :) OD actually faded a lot even on tanks, I dropped one BW photo in the previous video showing just how light it could get. Then there's the obvious "scale factor" which I keep using on all my models - in a nutshell: lighter model is easier to weather and, once finished, looks "bigger"
@@NightShiftScaleModels I do agree it does fade to the point where its painted, but generally after about 70 years as mentioned :) I have been following this and many of your other series, but also as a historian who also restores period US vehicles I'm very familiar with the nature and fickleness of OD ;) Its my humble opinion that the OD star is closer to the shade you should be aiming for and the star should be a touch darker as well to reflect that. Either way, I'll reserve judgement for the final product. Cant wait to see how it turns up :)
My experience from looking at tons of war time photos is that American armour wasn't so much chipped as the paint could've been more resistant. But it faded a lot from the environmental exposure thus giving us a different pallet to work from compare to other nations armour.
From what I know and according to at least some of the comments here, US WWII OD on tanks was indeed a baked on semi-gloss enamel, much more durable than the factory finish on pretty muc all the other players' tanks. However. Not every tank has the same "life experiences" and even reference photos from the war can be deceiving. I can see any side publishing photos of their better-looking tanks and of the enemy's *worst-looking* tanks, so it's entirely reasonable that you can build a model of a relatively heavily-chipped Sherman. It did its job and may have even survived the war but wasn't destined for photographed fame.
Uncle Nightshift, I have seen other sherman models with a darker olive drab, can you make another sherman tutorial with the darker tones? Great model and video btw. Cheers mate!
I am pretty sure the paint chipped in U.S. Tanks during the war. It may not appear so because touching up chips and scratches was probably done during routine maintenance giving the appearance my be paint never chipped.
I have built tanks modles for years. I really like what you do to make them look so real. I have built so many sherman tanks its hard to say how many. I am now building the best sherman I have ever built. I plan to use many of your ideas you do because there so good. I have to ask where did you see this idea of the cement ? I have never seen any tank that did this to there tank. Ever. It seems to me that this would weigh the tank down so much it would move at a crawl and maybe useless in a battle. Is this a real ? I know i dont know everything about what the army did to save there lives but I never seen this.
I like it - I like it a lot. But it just doesn't look Olive Drab to me. Maybe this will change as things go on though. Looks great so far. Great video thanks for sharing.
U should look at the krangvong from world of tanks it has a tank round inveted into the side of the turret armor you should do that and have a flack shell inveted into the gun mandlet or something
Oi mate! ...would you be able to share a photograph of your tank on daylight?? (because it looks a solutely Brown not a hint of Green [olive] ...AT ALL, at least in the videos)
![[UA] NAVI проти G2 Esports | Blast Premier Fall Final](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/QWlIm4FGESQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Who else has been waiting for this all week
the only meaning a "week" has now is that we get more modelling videos every "week"
Guilty.
Me
Everyone
And me too
I like how he seems so happy to have a Tamiya kit 😂 no more bad Revell kits
Oh yes, US OD was a semi-gloss enamel that was baked on in those ovens. The "oven" looks so big like a tunnel so they can do many tanks at once. You can still see chipping on high wear areas like hatch edges but it's usually pretty refined....and boring :) but chip-less tanks aren't cool...
It's not like powder coating on bikes; since those are just held on electrostatically until they're cured which bakes them into a sort of shell. The OD is an enamel paint so it actually binds onto the surface more like any normal paint.
"Standard Catalog of U.S. Military Vehicles" by Doyle has some of the best info on OD.
Just use your reference photos. For example I saw that on modern LAV vehicles theres a little chipping, and the undercoat was white. One presumes that modern paint is tougher, and modern vehicles in peacetime are better maintained.
@@orbitalair2103 oh modern armour get beat up really bad. But I guess it helps when the typical modern tank survives much longer than 4 weeks to a few months as most WWII stuff did.
@@orbitalair2103 overall I would say that the painting techniques are much better today than they were in WWII and unit for unit a lot more time and money is put into it.
During WWII they would experiment just how little paint they physically needed to put on simply to save time and resources. You will see wear spots on high traffic areas of a modern tank but I find it much less apparent than on references photos of WWII ones.
As far as I know those where not ovens, those where infra red tunnels and that is not a gloss coat but a freshly painted one
@@Javo2491 ...gloss coat? no. OD had a semi gloss finish itself. Smoother finish results in less wear. That is why cars are shiny and not matte-finished. The colour is "A/N 319 Olive Drab
, I.M.S (improved moisture sealant), slight gloss".
"I like my tanks beaten up like a toy car in a cement mixer"
-Uncle Night Shift, 2020
I know Im asking the wrong place but does anybody know of a tool to get back into an Instagram account??
I stupidly forgot my account password. I would love any assistance you can offer me.
@Colby Deandre instablaster :)
My father's older brother (my uncle) worked at General Motors during WWII (yes, I am THAT old). We had almost this same discussion many, many years ago. The gist of it was this. Although they made Shermans as quickly as they could; all of them were properly primed and painted. There was no immediate urgency as to speed of manufacture as the war was thousands of miles away. Unlike in Germany and Russia where on a great many occasions, tank crews picked up their vehicle and went straight to the battlefield. Yes, Shermans did chip and wear; just not to the extreme that other vehicles did. Proper priming and painting was sometimes circumvented or totally absent in Europe as the war drug on. Personally, if I am doing a Sherman I AM going to chip and weather it. I just keep it toned down a bit. Nevertheless, outstanding video; as always. Hope the above is of some use. Good job!
This right here!
I love the weathering you do Nightshift. The effort is insane and I cant wait to see the final result. I'm only 14 and I have 7 WW2 models. Your videos are helping me a lot!
If you love ww2 models, maybe try a cold war t55 by mini art, I am also 14 and have loved the kit tons
@@professionalmrmeatspeedrun4554 or the new 1/48 T-55 from Tamiya :)
@@professionalmrmeatspeedrun4554, yeah I was thinking about doing Soviet tanks. I have German, American, and British tanks. Idk if I have enough room to add another shelf on the wall for the Russians. Probably in the future though.
Model making is something you will do for the rest of your life so just enjoy it no rush
It good to see new blood I was starting to feel as if we were among the last to go
@@NightShiftScaleModels oh hi nightshift
The weekend hasn’t started without Uncle Night Shift giving us another great vid :)
Among many things about this video, I LOVE how you are self-treating your AMS tendencies.
Martin, congratulations on 100K subscribers! Even though I have not built anything for a couple of years, and have never built an armor model (I mostly built automotive subjects), I was very impressed not only by your skill and technique, but your demeanor and attitude toward the hobby. I thoroughly enjoy your content and have learned quite a bit from your great videos. In the unlikely event I ever start building again, I think I can definitely apply some of the knowledge I have gained by watching you. Thank you very much for sharing your passion with all of us, and continued success!
You are part of what makes me look forward to Friday's bud. After four months of waiting, i finally got my tamiya putty.
MARTIN!!!!! As always, perfection. Pure perfection.
Never thought a Sherman could have so many tiny details brought out...loving this series!
i admire your knowledge and talent. Its always good to see how others do builds. I just got into this hobby and although i plan to do some painting, i wont be getting into such detail. It will be just me that sees no art show or movie set and i have already dropped $350 on a hobby i dont even know if i like or not. So no excessive detail for me, at least not now.
This is by far my favorite build. I love the concrete armor tanks, you should do the concrete armor stug next!!
Hello Night Shift, I love your videos and your funny comments and humor expecially. Thank you that you show us this and other "easy" technics. Since i watch your vidios my skill in building models is much better and I have a much higher claim for me and my modells. Don't stop it, PLEASE!
me: has a sad weekend
Uncle Night Shift: Why is nobody having fun. I specifically requested it! :)
Thank you Night for your quality content.
"I think we might be going a weathering process too far." -General "I'm Not General Browning" Person on youtube
Very interesting. I'll have to try your methods. Great work.
Hey Uncle Night Shift!
I wanna ask you, if you're gonna make a tank with interior in the future? Would be really interesting, how you would texture and chip the whole interior! I know, I know; you got enough projects to do... Thats why I am asking. Btw: I am building an old Matchbox M4A3 Sherman in 1:72 scale! Nice video as always! Helped me a lot with my Sherman!
Greetings from Germany!
Interior models are not really my thing, most of the time you can barely see inside and I don't like presenting them "disassembled" just to show the insides. I've got one kit with full interior in my stash that I'd like to build this year, so please don't take it too seriously when I throw the entire interior in the trash :D
@@NightShiftScaleModels Yeah, I can understand you... Got a Panther in 1:35 scale with Full Interior, but the Painting in the Building instruction was completely wrong. I did'nt know that before, that it was wrong. After I found out, I tried to repaint the whole interior
and besides, I destroyed the interior with it...
I like how you referenced Tamiya tracks from the 70's. I recently finished a kit with them!!
*Uncle NightShift or how to weather plastic models to make look like real ... WELL DONE! 👍👏👏*
Looks fantastic as always!
you are king!!!
Thanks for uploading. It's very politely work as usual. And I got a lot from this video. Especially, some colors that's blending
are very interesting. Also I'm looking forward to watch next !!!
top modely z tvojí garáže Martine, neskutečnej pokrok a krásně se na videa kouká..
When he said sharp details. Fantastic
Hey Martin. You are insane man!!! I am amazed by your work. You are the reason I switched from my only love , the aviation and I building the sherman copying your techniques because I was inspired by your work.. You are making it look so easy. Keep'em coming. Cant wait for the next one.
ALWAYS a treat to watch you work, my friend. And, as always, thank you for sharing.
Steve
Yes that picture is a light tunnel just to speed up the drying time and increase production
Exactly, infrared in fact and not an oven!
Javier Mendoza really? I did not know that it was infrared
Popular Mechanics Dec 1940
The automobile industry is employing large numbers of infra-red lamps, Ford using
more than 10,000 on a variety of operations, such as the drying of priming coats of paint, first-coat enamel, some finish enamel and repair enamel.
In the River Rouge plant is a ninety-foot tunnel containing 4,800 drying lamps of 260 watts each,
with which a priming coat of paint on an auto body may be dried in ten or fifteen minutes, compared to one hour by older methods.
Amazing work as usual, i back to the hobby after some 30 years. I can't believe all the new products. I've been trying to find out where to buy Wilder products in Canada but not having any luck. I've asked a few others and seemed to be dismissed by their answers. Have you ever made a video just starting at a very basic level and showed progression and tools used?. Maybe you can call it modeling for newbs ... lol Anyway enjoy your day ,your workmanship is amazing👍🇨🇦👍
I'm following this build with anticipation, love your style, I like your commentary it's great, top notch production values, thanks for the video
Return of the Chonki Boi... It will be a good day :D
Thank you , Uncle Martin .
That tank is thicc! Real thicc. Thanks Uncle NS, you are my favourite uncle.
Bro I wouldn't shorten Night Shift with NS just for reasons...
@@___j____6643 Well you keep typing out Night Shift for your reasons, and I'll keep shortening it to NS for my reasons and we're all happy. What do you think about me shortening Uncle Night Shift to UNS? I bet you have reasons for not doing it.
The best details and best paints for the best tank of the western front... am I the only one having some freeaboo vibes rn?
Pretty amazing. Being a bolt action game guy, i am just in love with the detail of these bigger models. I think i may do some just for fun!
Another extremely helpful video, Uncle Nightshift. Thank you!
Sherman tanks with the longer 76 were often camouflaged at the end of the barrel because german tankers were afraid of its higher pen. I recommend you research this and maybe consider doing this.
Not King Tigers haha 😂
Extra context- this was because those Shermans were targeted by the German crews. They could go through some German tanks and thus posed a higher threat.
It was a common practice on the british Fireflies and 76s, but I have never seen it done on an american 76 Sherman
lot of originals ideas and not another time an easy eight like fury
good job !
AKs weathering pencils are brilliant for blending and streaking and for dust effects just sitting on tops of of things it's hard to explain but it's just so natural! I use them more now than oils! I weathered 2 models with only weathering pencils to just get used to them and really just how to apply them the best way! Using them like a pencil though is definitely going to be everyone's first mistake and throwing them aside never to use them again thinking there rubbish! I did lol but I then gave them a go as I have 4 different sets and not cheap! I found the best way to use them is to sharpen the tips to a long point the dust and streaking sets the best the concrete pencil is a really nice effect too! I use that and the buff for the dust! Anyway back to it, lol sharpen them right up well just along exposed tip all laying down flat and using your paintbrush dipped in water softening up the tips of the pencils get them going you'll leave a wee groove through them but just paint them on in streaks to dot fillers and wait till they dry abitty before going back to either blend in steak rust dirt dust etc waw if I could show you the pak 43 I weathered up and chipped theres a chipping set too! You'd be shocked at how good they are!
You are the best! :D My favorite friday night program! :D
An Artist!
In the future, you should do concrete armor with abrasion and battle damage, so that you immediately recognize it as concrete (still looks great even when it's unblemished as it is here).
I remember when i found you on yt while u had 5k subs, and i learnt a lot from you since that time
God DAMN that looks good!
Another great video
Gosh this looks good
Nice vid liked it a lot it was really fun
looks amazing!
2:26 that's one laggy brush
Dude, your the Dude
😁👌
Cool art
Those modelers are thinking about powder coat paint, which was invented in 1945 so it couldn't be used on all US vechicles, just those produced in the last months of the war. Furthermore it couldn't be used because baking whole finished tank in oven would destroy any rubber elements and electrical wire isolation. This all is not important anyway because powder coat paint still chips, even more than regular solvent paint, because if you scratch it, over time rust develops on the surface of the steel around the scratch and the paint falls off in large chunks. Powder coat is basically a plastic powder that you spray on the thing, it holds on to the thing just by electrostatics, so you have to bake it on an oven to make it a uniform coat.
EDIT: Oh, I wrote this comment before you said you worked there :D. It's awesome that you clarified it in the video. You are the first person that I heard that correctly described powder coat properties, I thought that I was alone in this world with this.
Nice as always. All the best for You! ;)
great works Martin, i am working in them
I think many weathering processes darken a tank over time. If one starts out too dark, it can be hard to lighten up and the contrast is lost. Especially as vehicles smaller than the real thing should be lighter than the real thing (as if you were viewing it from far away). I've often herd of olive drab referred to as a black and yellow mix. So if one were to scale down the color and make it less dark, I can understand why many comments are saying it is too light or too yellow. But I venture to guess that after additional effects, this will darken up nicely into the darker OD green we'd expect. I love the color contrast of the pre dusting (light tan) and the wet mud (brown texture). And as much of it will get painted over anyway, it is a great technique to check out the general colors ahead of time to see what works and what does not
It is not about 'dark' but about actual color pigments.
When you don't use greens, it's no surprise the result is not even greenish..
@@axp8598 not sure what you're referring to...? The tank in this video that was painted with many green pigments?
Great video as always and I think it'd be interesting if he did a tank that was knocked out due to a cook-off of the ammunition. But that might just be me, and I think a Russian tank like T-34-76 would be accurate to do it on as they never really had armored ammunition storage.
Everytime I see one of your videos I just want to see more! Keep it up!
But also, have you considered doing a video only using paint brushes and maybe spray paint (rattle can), for those who wish to follow along that don't have access to an airbrush? I think it would be well received!
Love your work and I know there is more weathering coming up, but it seems very light for an OD tank....
OD did fade into very light tones. Airplanes are a great example, but of course this isn't a plane... I included one ref picture in the previous episode showing how light it could get. Have a few more in my Sherman folder, however another reason I always go for a very light base coat is simply because it's easier to weather and it makes the model look bigger. Also, it's much easier to look at the finished model in real life under natural light conditions, as every effect pops up :)
You are an awesome inspiration for us modelers. Thank you for what you do!
I know you were talking about taking on new/bigger projects. Ever think of 1/16 tanks or any panzer Commander figures? Would love to is a 1946 what if Panther some day ;)
12:50 US Armor Was powder coated and, powder coating prevents rust and chipping. Powder Coating used later on cars during the 60s and they still use it today. but it is dangerous to thick pieces of metal cause the process they heat the metal up and apply the powder to the surface and then it drys, so the metal might crack. Th US airbrushes there tanks but, aviation vehicles are still being powder coated along with cars.
Not entirely correct. Only the landing gear is powder coated on aircraft. The rest is epoxy paint.
@@ScottKenny1978 Correct but, they used powder coating before the 1930s. :)
the sherman lock seack
Would be interesting to see you do a kit with a full interior and how you handle chipping and weathering as well a scratch building
Great job, my friend!!!!
Amazing!
They actually had a temperature specification for the light oven they used on the tanks. Oshkosh still uses the same spec on the M-ATV
Hey night shift congrats on 100k
Rite Unc, Sheee is lookin Betterer. TFS, G :)
Nice
Hey Uncle Night Shift! l enjoy your commentary ! as well as your modelling.... petty you could not do a short video mid-week.
If you wanna do realistic rust wash on a bigger model, mix thin transparent wash with fine rust powder or just simply mix rust powder with enamel thinner, so it sticks it onto the paint. While it is still wet, it won't seem much, but when it dries, the iron-oxide grains stick to one another in a fashion that they create a real layer of rust, which even has a good pattern. Care must be taken, it can get thick, that is why I said to try on a bigger model, however if you want to make a burnt out wreck, then it will do an absolutely FABULOUS job! If you are unfamiliar with this cheapskate technique, I advise getting a piece of plastic, paint it some color, and then try it out on that surface, experiment untill you get it right.
By the way, rust powder, you can make it by getting a piece of steel or iron, and put it under water for a night, by the morning, it'll have a nice coat of rust. You file the rust down with a nail filer or sandpaper into a little container, like a little jar or something. If the surface of the piece of iron or steel is smooth, not rusty, and still intact, use a nail filer or a sandpaper to damage its surface a bit so the water can attack it to create rust. Also, goes without saying, try not to use rust-free steel.
Sherman recipe calls for baking at 350 degrees for 30 minutes followed by a dusting of powdered sugar... :) Yes, American armor chipped, all paint will chip.
for some reason, I really wanna see night shift make a 1/35th Hetzer
In the 100K video, you were talking about possible models and all the genres people want you to build... I'm gonna throw one in the mix that *might* appeal.... How about Maschinen Krieger? [aka Ma.K] Seems like a logical step - if people want you to do sci-fi or gundam - to do some sort of robot genre where military modelling paint techniques would work really well. It is actually really good fun to do Ma.K now and again - coz you can paint, weather and rust the hell out of it and noone can tell you you're wrong.
Car paint is baked on. Still chips though. Tanks aren't exactly trailer queens. They experience some pretty rough treatment. Paint can only handle so much.
I normally don't try to defend a build, or the procedures and techniques I use - it's MY model and I will paint and weather it MY way (feel free to provide some feedback though, just be gentle, lol). I do prefer 'artistic' over 'realistic', models are a 3D rendering and I find this approach more interesting. I will offer my advice as well but I would never be arrogant enough to think my opinion is more important than yours - we call those people 'rivet counters'.
Would really like to see your collection of built models,
Fantastic paint job so far, but I feel the mix of OD you made up is a bit too light. By the end of the video, it looks like one of the tanks you'd see at outdoor displays rather than being a few weeks/months old in combat, especially with the amount of rust/chipping. The darker OD we see on original surviving examples today have been baked under the sun for 70+ years, so it turns to that lighter color you've got on now. I've a collection of original Jerry cans from the war that don't nearly have the amount of rust you have on yours. While not impervious, US paint jobs back then were a touch more durable than now so you should tone down the rust and heavy chipping a bit.
Dust and mud tones always tone down about 30-50% of chipping :) OD actually faded a lot even on tanks, I dropped one BW photo in the previous video showing just how light it could get. Then there's the obvious "scale factor" which I keep using on all my models - in a nutshell: lighter model is easier to weather and, once finished, looks "bigger"
@@NightShiftScaleModels I do agree it does fade to the point where its painted, but generally after about 70 years as mentioned :)
I have been following this and many of your other series, but also as a historian who also restores period US vehicles I'm very familiar with the nature and fickleness of OD ;) Its my humble opinion that the OD star is closer to the shade you should be aiming for and the star should be a touch darker as well to reflect that.
Either way, I'll reserve judgement for the final product. Cant wait to see how it turns up :)
eey I watch and like right away
Now eventually you do plan to have green, on your green Sherman? Right?
No, 'Shermans in Irak' is trending..
My experience from looking at tons of war time photos is that American armour wasn't so much chipped as the paint could've been more resistant. But it faded a lot from the environmental exposure thus giving us a different pallet to work from compare to other nations armour.
From what I know and according to at least some of the comments here, US WWII OD on tanks was indeed a baked on semi-gloss enamel, much more durable than the factory finish on pretty muc all the other players' tanks.
However.
Not every tank has the same "life experiences" and even reference photos from the war can be deceiving. I can see any side publishing photos of their better-looking tanks and of the enemy's *worst-looking* tanks, so it's entirely reasonable that you can build a model of a relatively heavily-chipped Sherman. It did its job and may have even survived the war but wasn't destined for photographed fame.
NIce. Having a lot of oil paint, but none enamel wash, I would be interested to see the comparison with oil paint washes.
Uncle Nightshift, I have seen other sherman models with a darker olive drab, can you make another sherman tutorial with the darker tones? Great model and video btw. Cheers mate!
Juste WOW😮😮😮
Hi! When's the German grey? We're waiting!!!
I am pretty sure the paint chipped in U.S. Tanks during the war. It may not appear so because touching up chips and scratches was probably done during routine maintenance giving the appearance my be paint never chipped.
Hello Martin!
STRAHOVNJIK name dropper
@@dotdashdotdash what?
You should make a destroyed French town as a diorama for this
he said he wanted it to be a tank in Germany 1945, so a destroyed german town would be more accurate
What does uncle Nightshift and Gordon Ramsay have in common?
Both of them want that TEXTURE
Am here yessss
I have this kit 👍
would be nice if a plane model was next like a spitfire or a stuka if possible
Please make a modern British tank, I want to know good tips on those
I have built tanks modles for years. I really like what you do to make them look so real. I have built so many sherman tanks its hard to say how many. I am now building the best sherman I have ever built. I plan to use many of your ideas you do because there so good. I have to ask where did you see this idea of the cement ? I have never seen any tank that did this to there tank. Ever. It seems to me that this would weigh the tank down so much it would move at a crawl and maybe useless in a battle. Is this a real ? I know i dont know everything about what the army did to save there lives but I never seen this.
I like it - I like it a lot. But it just doesn't look Olive Drab to me. Maybe this will change as things go on though.
Looks great so far. Great video thanks for sharing.
Yeah, on my screen his last two tanks have looked far more tan and yellow.
Oh yea we baked that paint so hard that shit would stop 130mm guns point blank!
U should look at the krangvong from world of tanks it has a tank round inveted into the side of the turret armor you should do that and have a flack shell inveted into the gun mandlet or something
Oi mate!
...would you be able to share a photograph of your tank on daylight??
(because it looks a solutely Brown not a hint of Green [olive] ...AT ALL, at least in the videos)
can you do a video on Acrylic rust?