To make edge jointing safer, easier, and more accurate, you could take advantage of the extremely sturdy construction of your guard's support assembly by adding spring-loaded roller(s) or feather boards to the end of the adjustable horizontal piece closest to the fence. These would hold the face of the work piece firmly against the fence, further reducing the likelihood of fingers going anywhere near the blade.
Sorry for the delay in responding, but I've been off-grid for a bit lately... This is a replacement motor, a 3-phase 200 (yes, not 220 volt) motor I picked up very inexpensively - but new in the box. Probably because of the unusual voltage. That having been stated, it works really well with my FM VFD and hasn't given me any problems at all. The motor which came with the machine when I purchased it from a gent who had put a lot of effort into refurbishing it, was a 5hp single-phase 220 volt monster of a motor. I sold that motor to a friend in exchange for some lathe turning lessons (which, come to think about it, I still haven't taken!). Hope this helps.
@@ApexWoodworks Thats quite alright, thanks for replying. I just purchased an RD from 1954 and it needs some work. All the information you have provided will be a great help. I'm hoping my original motor works well and nothing needs to be done. Would you be able to take some photos of your machine and send it my email? It will just give me a vision to aim for when refurbishing mine. Thanks Bryce
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hello. I made a safety guide after watching your video. Thank you for being an inspiration to me.
You're more than welcome. Glad you were inspired and made one for yourself.
@@ApexWoodworks Oh, thank you. Please visit my channel from time to time ^^
Nice job , your a fan of crocs like myself I see , nice workshop too 👍🏻
You have a great surface planer there. Well demonstrated the use of the bridge guard. Tony
Thanks, Eyup. It's been wonderful to use.
To make edge jointing safer, easier, and more accurate, you could take advantage of the extremely sturdy construction of your guard's support assembly by adding spring-loaded roller(s) or feather boards to the end of the adjustable horizontal piece closest to the fence. These would hold the face of the work piece firmly against the fence, further reducing the likelihood of fingers going anywhere near the blade.
Thanks for the idea, Michael. I've been using a pair of magnetic-base featherboards, one for each plane, to make things safer.
did you fit a new motor to this machine or is it original?
Sorry for the delay in responding, but I've been off-grid for a bit lately...
This is a replacement motor, a 3-phase 200 (yes, not 220 volt) motor I picked up very inexpensively - but new in the box. Probably because of the unusual voltage. That having been stated, it works really well with my FM VFD and hasn't given me any problems at all.
The motor which came with the machine when I purchased it from a gent who had put a lot of effort into refurbishing it, was a 5hp single-phase 220 volt monster of a motor. I sold that motor to a friend in exchange for some lathe turning lessons (which, come to think about it, I still haven't taken!).
Hope this helps.
@@ApexWoodworks Thats quite alright, thanks for replying. I just purchased an RD from 1954 and it needs some work.
All the information you have provided will be a great help. I'm hoping my original motor works well and nothing needs to be done.
Would you be able to take some photos of your machine and send it my email? It will just give me a vision to aim for when refurbishing mine.
Thanks
Bryce
Where did you get the gaurd
It was made by a metal worker for me, after having discussed the various options and ways of going about making it.
way to go, Marty! Can I be the first to subscribe?