Kudos for the proper bleeding procedure. I did it my way by attaching all the hoses and pouring in the coolant. I noticed the coolant filled up the reservoir prematurely which was a sign of air in the system. I opened up the two bleeding valves and no air vented out. Had to start the engine to get the air moving. I heard a loud bang as the I started the engine. Then I waited for the engine to warm up. The moment the thermostat opened up, the engine almost stopped for a second. And thus how I bled the system.
There are several methods you can use to bleed the coolant system as you say, also depends on the car, some are even self bleeding. This particular car even from new has had a luke warm heater (the owner tells me). I installed a new heater matrix and bled the system, but still the heater is not functioning as it should, however the car is not overheating anymore. I'll look into the heater next time i get to work on it again.
i guess Im asking the wrong place but does any of you know a tool to log back into an Instagram account? I somehow forgot the account password. I would love any tips you can offer me!
Hey mate I was just driving down the motorway and noticed the car starting to pull and lose a little power. I didnt think much of it then 30 mins later the thermostat started to rise. I pulled over and the bonnet and engine were hot. I took the cap off the coolant and steam came out but was still half full of coolant. The last time it was in the garage the mechanic said to get rid of the car when it next has issues. Do you think it is worth saving? Thanks mate
Hi John, It's possible that it's the thermostat that's failed, a cheap fix. Top up with coolant and let the car come up to temp and check the coolant pipes either side of the thermostat, if one side is hot and the other stays cool that's your problem. Check the water pump is ok ie the belt isn't slipping. Fill up with coolant run the engine turn the heater and Fan inside the car to full and see if the heater does what it should if it heats up as it should the pump and thermostat are ok. Check inside the oil filler cap and check there is no "mayonnaise" type substance if there is then it is a Head Gasket failure. This is an expensive fix. Is it worth saving......if it's just a thermostat it's an easy cheap fix if you can do it yourself, so you might get more use out of your car. I'd say the same for the water pump. However if it's the Head Gasket, it's an expensive job and knowing what 206's go for these days, you would probably need to sell and find another car. I suppose the other thing is does it have other issues which may affect your decision. I hope you can get it sorted.........PS if you don't have one get a Haynes manual off eBay. David
Nice video Dave. I just stumbled on your vid after stopping on a motorway for nearly 3 hours tonight, waiting for rac rescue as my radiator was leaking. The bloke came and topped the water in the coolant and off was on my way home. He showed me the leakage at the bottom of radiator, looks like its corroded. Your video encouraged me to diy but lack a few tools. Can i source the radiator and have it replaced by a garage for labour?
Thanks. If you are able to borrow a few tools I'd give it a go. If you want it replaced by a garage you probably won't save much , if at all by sourcing a Rad yourself. You could try pricing a rad and getting a quote from a mobile mechanic to fit it (less overheads) I suppose it comes down to how quick you need the car back running. Hope you get it sorted soon. Love to hear how you get on. Regards David
I know there's a screw somewhere to drain the engine block. I've been trying to find a video or any info on the net about it but no luck so far. I don't think I really need it, but at this point it's just stubbornness driving me . lol
There's a bleed/drain allen plug on the Thermostat and a plastic bleed screw on one of the heater hoses,( which you already know) but I'm not aware of a drain plug on the engine block. IfI drain the water I remove the Rad bottom hose or the Rad drain plug. I hope you find the block drain, let me know if you find it...... Good luck
If you just bleed from the reservoir you are likely to have air trapped somewhere. The best way is to put the heater to full, add your coolant, open the bleed screw on the rubber heater outlet pipe and let it bleed air out until you see coolant start to leak and close it. Do the same with the bleed screw on the thermostat. Then I would run the engine and repeat the process, I open the bleed screw carefully while the engine is running to see if any air wants to escape. Top up your coolant as required, always allow the coolant to cool down before opening the reservoir cap. Once you have no air bleeding out of the system run the engine up to full temp and check the heater in the car is doing what it should. It is possible you may have to repeat the process. Good luck.
@@davidbaugh I didn't bleed mine properly, when changing a thermostat. Over time, any air in the coolant will eventually bubble up and disperse within the reservoir, would you say?
@@robertmudrow8034 It is possible however sometimes trying to get all the air out by letting it seep out can be hit and miss. I had to bleed it a couple of times before I was satisfied it was properly bled.
Changing the Radiator was very straightforward, lots of access. I later changed the cabin heater matrix without removing the dash, now that was fiddly with lots of grazed knuckles.
You are right. Most of the parts are really hard to remove, but it's challenging to put it back. It can be painful. I own a 206, so I have an experience on it.
Kudos for the proper bleeding procedure. I did it my way by attaching all the hoses and pouring in the coolant. I noticed the coolant filled up the reservoir prematurely which was a sign of air in the system. I opened up the two bleeding valves and no air vented out. Had to start the engine to get the air moving. I heard a loud bang as the I started the engine. Then I waited for the engine to warm up. The moment the thermostat opened up, the engine almost stopped for a second. And thus how I bled the system.
There are several methods you can use to bleed the coolant system as you say, also depends on the car, some are even self bleeding.
This particular car even from new has had a luke warm heater (the owner tells me). I installed a new heater matrix and bled the system, but still the heater is not functioning as it should, however the car is not overheating anymore. I'll look into the heater next time i get to work on it again.
Спасибо за проделанную работу!
i guess Im asking the wrong place but does any of you know a tool to log back into an Instagram account?
I somehow forgot the account password. I would love any tips you can offer me!
@Major Malachi instablaster =)
Hey mate I was just driving down the motorway and noticed the car starting to pull and lose a little power. I didnt think much of it then 30 mins later the thermostat started to rise. I pulled over and the bonnet and engine were hot. I took the cap off the coolant and steam came out but was still half full of coolant.
The last time it was in the garage the mechanic said to get rid of the car when it next has issues. Do you think it is worth saving? Thanks mate
Hi John, It's possible that it's the thermostat that's failed, a cheap fix. Top up with coolant and let the car come up to temp and check the coolant pipes either side of the thermostat, if one side is hot and the other stays cool that's your problem.
Check the water pump is ok ie the belt isn't slipping. Fill up with coolant run the engine turn the heater and Fan inside the car to full and see if the heater does what it should if it heats up as it should the pump and thermostat are ok.
Check inside the oil filler cap and check there is no "mayonnaise" type substance if there is then it is a Head Gasket failure. This is an expensive fix.
Is it worth saving......if it's just a thermostat it's an easy cheap fix if you can do it yourself, so you might get more use out of your car. I'd say the same for the water pump. However if it's the Head Gasket, it's an expensive job and knowing what 206's go for these days, you would probably need to sell and find another car.
I suppose the other thing is does it have other issues which may affect your decision.
I hope you can get it sorted.........PS if you don't have one get a Haynes manual off eBay.
David
Nice video Dave. I just stumbled on your vid after stopping on a motorway for nearly 3 hours tonight, waiting for rac rescue as my radiator was leaking. The bloke came and topped the water in the coolant and off was on my way home. He showed me the leakage at the bottom of radiator, looks like its corroded. Your video encouraged me to diy but lack a few tools. Can i source the radiator and have it replaced by a garage for labour?
Thanks. If you are able to borrow a few tools I'd give it a go. If you want it replaced by a garage you probably won't save much , if at all by sourcing a Rad yourself. You could try pricing a rad and getting a quote from a mobile mechanic to fit it (less overheads) I suppose it comes down to how quick you need the car back running. Hope you get it sorted soon. Love to hear how you get on. Regards David
Can I fit an automatic radiator into a manual model?
I can't see any reason why not, however I would check in the owners manual or with a parts supplier.
Does this radiator have a drain or do you have to remove the bottom hose?
From memory, I think there is a drain plug.
I know there's a screw somewhere to drain the engine block. I've been trying to find a video or any info on the net about it but no luck so far. I don't think I really need it, but at this point it's just stubbornness driving me . lol
There's a bleed/drain allen plug on the Thermostat and a plastic bleed screw on one of the heater hoses,( which you already know) but I'm not aware of a drain plug on the engine block.
IfI drain the water I remove the Rad bottom hose or the Rad drain plug.
I hope you find the block drain, let me know if you find it...... Good luck
Hi can you bleed the system by just running the car with the reservoir cap off?
If you just bleed from the reservoir you are likely to have air trapped somewhere. The best way is to put the heater to full, add your coolant, open the bleed screw on the rubber heater outlet pipe and let it bleed air out until you see coolant start to leak and close it. Do the same with the bleed screw on the thermostat. Then I would run the engine and repeat the process, I open the bleed screw carefully while the engine is running to see if any air wants to escape. Top up your coolant as required, always allow the coolant to cool down before opening the reservoir cap.
Once you have no air bleeding out of the system run the engine up to full temp and check the heater in the car is doing what it should. It is possible you may have to repeat the process.
Good luck.
@@davidbaugh I didn't bleed mine properly, when changing a thermostat.
Over time, any air in the coolant will eventually bubble up and disperse within the reservoir, would you say?
@@robertmudrow8034 It is possible however sometimes trying to get all the air out by letting it seep out can be hit and miss. I had to bleed it a couple of times before I was satisfied it was properly bled.
Peugeot 206 1.4 hdi sistem havasını nasıl alabiliriz
Hi, do you mean how do you remove air from the heater system?
@@davidbaugh peaugot 3008.
@@hafsahmuhammad2944 What about a 3008?
206 is not easy to work on in my experience. Everything is squezzed tightly
Absolutely a nightmare, I can guarantee you that.
Changing the Radiator was very straightforward, lots of access. I later changed the cabin heater matrix without removing the dash, now that was fiddly with lots of grazed knuckles.
You are right. Most of the parts are really hard to remove, but it's challenging to put it back. It can be painful. I own a 206, so I have an experience on it.
,