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Laticrete Hydro Ban Cementitious OUTPERFORMS Ardex 8+9 in Glass Box Test
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- Опубліковано 27 лют 2020
- Laticrete Hydro Ban Cementitious OUTPERFORMS Ardex 8+9 in Glass Box Test. Not what I thought! As most of you know, I have been using Ardex 8+9 in all of my shower pans in the last few years. I use it as a secondary barrier on top of my polyethylene sheet membrane. The reason I like it is because it is cementitious, meaning it is made with cement, so that it bonds really well to mortar. I also like the fact that it is cured by chemical reaction- no air is needed in the curing process, which is one of the main drawbacks to single component waterproofing products.
I was eager to try out the Hydro Ban Cementitious membrane because it only requires the use of mixing with water.
Please watch the video and let me know what you think! Please leave your comments in the section below. You can find me on instagram @tilecoach
8+9 says 1to 1 mix unless mixing for filling larger gaps.
Hey Isac keep up the great work! Quick question, when you come across a floor that has crowns and low spots throughout on wood subfloor what do you typically do. Especially if your trying to install large format tile that us cupped. Do you try to convince the homeowner to use another product or just try to get the tile as flat as possible. Thanks
@@jacksonvlogs7342 self level it. Prime the substrate and pour it all at once. If it's not flat, your tile is cupped and you're using lft, it would be a giant pain in the ass to try and get the tile installed flat and lippage free
Not true, read the instructions
@@ChasMtz420 Installation
Mixing Ratio Paintable Consistency:
1 gallon (3.78 L) of ARDEX 8 per 9 lb. (4 kg) of ARDEX 9
*For small batches, 1 part ARDEX 8 to 1 part ARDEX 9 by volume
Here ya go boss👌😉
@@Tilethoughts You have a lot more reading to do homie, keep going
Watched the video all the way through! and thought Ardex would for sure outperform Hydroban with the cracking and pin holes. The result was very surprising at the end, great video!
COLLABORATION!!!
2 of the best UA-cam tile setters together...awesome!!
I'm a contractor 30 plus years. When it needs to be said say it, Your awesome! Wish you all the best of success this business can give you. 👍
Concerning the air bubbles. If you mix it with a little slower drill you’ll fight less bubbles. Our mix is +/- 10% water. Once you mix it regularly you can dial it in. Also note, you’re adding water to the mix and it is creating a chemical cure. Interesting video.
Haha I knew this would get your attention.
Would be interesting to see how each holds up after the perspex box has been twisted/flexed a little to replicate structural movement/timber shrinkage etc. and see which handles it better or is more prone to cracking.
it's a glass box, not plastic I think
I've spent about 48 hours over the past few months watching your videos. I love the build science in your videos! Would love to see you team up with Matt Reisner.
I would love to see a standard Schluter pan without an added waterproofing with tile, grout, and silicone. Do a few day sprinkler test and see if any water gets through it all.
I think the air bubbles are caused by the mixer, and the speed of the drill. The air - that forms the bubble - is already in the mix before you apply the coats. Great video and thanks. You've really helped me with my first shower install.
Before using the 8+9 I talked to a very knowledgeable rep from Ardex and he gave me detailed instructions for use ... he told me to mix very well at a 1 to 1 ratio and mix with a paddle bit for at least 3 minutes but preferred 5 minutes.... the mix at that point changes consistency and becomes very creamy because all of the polymers begin to emulsify...I used one batch that I didn’t mix well enough and it behaved like a different animal ...all that being said I’ll do a cardboard box test myself because this surprised me ...
What were the results of your cardboard test?
you provide so much knowledge and experience,you are a very valuable resource
The air bubbles are probably due to using the drill, maybe a lower speed would be better. Or hand mixing unless you are having a big area. Good job on your videos. Been doing tile work for over 30 years and I have seen everything!
One other thing about the pinholes and cracking. HB Cementitious can be made thicker with your mix. You can get a better result with a flat trowel application. Thicker isn’t better. 40 mils is the application.
Yes, I agree. You can mix it thicker.
I appreciate you doing these tests and sharing them! I always try to test my materials as much as possible but it's hard for me to test every product as thoroughly as I would like so it's always been important for me to have a network of professionals to consult with and get feed back from. You're extending that network in a helpful and impactful way!
One of the things I love about tile is how long lasting it can be but it's only long lasting if it's done right. In testing materials I find an important step in the process is pushing the material to the point of failure because no product is good for everything and you have to understand the attributes of the materials you're working with to be able to know what's going to perform well in the range of situations you're going to encounter. This video illustrates that point very well!
It's long but worth the 45-second read -- To all the professionals out there.... go to the manufacturer's website and watch the manufacturer's training and product videos. As great of a guy that this gentleman appears to be, he did almost everything incorrectly. Please stop putting all your faith in UA-cam videos that are not endorsed by manufacturers. Manufacturers have mixing specifications for a reason. Read the entire "printed" technical data sheet (TDS) listed on the manufacturer’s website. It is in your best interest to not only read the pail, jug, or bucket - but also read the complete product TDS. You are not receiving complete product recommendations and you might be missing critical information. He measured his Laticrete but eyed the Ardex and then makes a statement that the Ardex surprisingly did not waterproof as well. He should have done 2 different tests side by side (not 2 products in the same mockup). Waterproofing is very specific. It either works or it does not. You're waterproofed or you are not. And when the product is mixed incorrectly, it often will not perform as advertised/expected. The latex in Ardex 8+9 is critical because it along with the proper powder ratio creates the waterproofing membrane. If you notice it was mixed it up thick with less latex. This was an incorrect ratio. If you are not mixing the "entire unit" and just skimming off small amounts of powder from the top of the bag, you might not have all the critical components/powder as materials separate in transport. Get in the habit of mixing complete kits/units for the best results. Mixing half or partial units only leads to problems. Waste is a job cost. Plan on waste - charge accordingly. If the material was properly dry blended first using a dry drill and clean pail and then some powder was scooped out, it would have been a better approach. Did he properly agitate the Ardex liquid to make sure it was well blended? Solids settle in latex and improper mixing causes failures. Why use Ardex 8+9 over Kerdi? Kerdi is a waterproofing all by itself - redundant. If he is using waterproofing to seam the Kerdi, Schluter would recommend using the Kerdi Band and a non-modified thin-set. All I am saying...if you learn something incorrectly and then follow the incorrect information yourself, who is responsible should a problem occur? Talk to your local product representative, read the manufacturer's printed information, and go to the manufacturer's product training. You will improve your understanding by avoiding any possible misinformation.
This comment should be pinned at the top. Actually this video should be taken down: irrelevant results for not following manufacturer instructions. Even the camera guy noted that he mixes it a lot thinner -probably he follows the directions. Not saying this guy doesn't do good work - I'll just call it demo-itis.
The manufacturers instructions also state that the 8+9 can be used at a thicker consistency that is still supposed to be waterproof, the consistency they describe is 2/3 powder to 1/3 water. The instructions also mention mixing smaller portions for filling seams/gaps and then mixing back into the paintable consistency to roller. No where do the instructions state anything about dry mixing or that you have to mix an entire batch of their product for it to work correctly. I literally just read the instruction sheet.
You sound like a out of touch liberal not based in reality
Been using laticrete products back in the 80s. They been around a long time . They were pricey back then,and still now. But it is a proven company. And still using there product. Great demo as always.👍 you still need to work on you short game lol.
This process is great for a test. I just recently came across your channel. Great stuff!!
I would like to see you do this test again but using the 8+9 proper manufacturer mixing recommendation. I think you'll find it will perform better than it did. As you said in the video, when first applying the 8+9, it was too thick. The thicker the material, the less chance for air bubbles to escape from the porous thinset. To many air bubbles captured in the material provide a path for water to penetrate.
Great video. I use Durock with Redguard. Been doing it for 15 years or so. No issues that. However, I just use the mesh tape for the durock, so Redguard is completely exposed to the air.
I love that you test products. I have used kirdy, schluter membrane and schluter panels. I have found that Durock and Redguard when installed correctly is the best bang for the buck.
Thanks for your videos. Casey K.
good video. Very informative. Thanks. Really appreciate the guy who makes these.
Thanks for watching!
You’re absolutely right about the instructions. Been retired for quite a few years but I cannot remember how many times I would yell at guys read the instructions so many workers think they’re above reading instructions. They all think they’re too cool for school
myself i like to use hard rubber float,it seams to take away the bubbles,or any other mix related issue,but I use whatever ,depending what is available at hand,but I like videos,I watch them all,thank you
For floor applications, polyurethane probably is a better option than cementitious coatings because they are more rigid and subject to crack. Cementitious coatings from where I live do have different flexibility options, the more flexible ones are for floor applications. For wall applications, we use more rigid cementitious coatings because the flexible ones may risk sagging once tiles are laid. Also , regardless of what coatings you use, the industry best practice stipulates that transition from vertical wall to floor be smoothed out or be made a 45 degree angle before applying coating to minimize cracking. But it's seldomly followed by residential contractors, some of them just use fibre mesh for reinforcement instead.
I think it's good to let the hydroban slake 5 to 10 minutes then re mix before you apply it. That should help with the bubbles. I always like to low speed my mixes also as it doesn't whip as much air into it. Great demonstration... I have always liked the laticrete products!
Been using red guard since I was 13 and I’m 27 now. Never had a leak! Just be good at hanging you backer board and making a pan the tighter the joint the less worry
Love these type of content cause I learn from them regardless that I'm not in your trade. Great job.
Thanks Isaac for you're helpful videos! I've learned a lot from you as I've been building my diy walk-in shower.
you should make separate boxes for each product to have more reliable results.
So this is just me guessing. But if that first layer of 8+9 was a little more loose, it probably would of soaked in better and released the air bubbles which then would have prevented the pin hole leaks. Am I wrong on that?
Great work Isaac! God bless.
I'd like to see you peel up the sample you made for this video... I think those water spot are not really water spots but material that really didn't mix well so it didn't cure fully. Just a thought.
They are still spots that got wet and bled through otherwise they would have shown up before the box was flooded. In any case if what you say was what happened it shows the advantage of a pre mixed sysyem.
I would like to add to this video in regards to the Ardex 8+9. I still believe ARDEX is easier to use due to that you don’t have to carry a scale to measure by weight. One more thing is that Ardex recommends using a 3/8 paint roller to apply their 8+9. I still believe that Ardex will outperform any liquid roll on waterproof membrane. Also I saw another text you did of the 8+9 with the seem tape saying that it leaked through their tape, their mesh tape needs to applied with 8+9 underneath it and then have the two coat application over their mesh.
I like the fact that both products seem compatible.
Great content. I think the rapid set mortar wasn’t cured long enough and caused the air bubbles and somewhat invalidated the test as the membranes were compromised before they could cure as a solid membrane. The test illustrated the better tolerance of the one product to a surface that wasn’t ready for waterproofing. You are much more knowledgeable in the trade than I am and you continue to educate me on tile and shower pans. I appreciate your videos. I am no expert, just an engineer. Thanks. I just used 8+9 two days ago and feel that I was actually looking for a product like laticrete and thought the Ardex 8+9 was more of a cement. Ultimately I am glad I used the Ardex and am pleased with the flexibility of the Ardex.
Good job, just starting my walk in shower.
Will be using Ardex 8 plus 9. Thanks 🇨🇦
First timer here, and I have cement board on my floor in bathroom (installed by previous owner I guess) and want to add a layer of waterproofing down before I lay down tile (since water is why we had to rip everything out in the first place). Do I just lay this down over cement board then lay tile as usual? If no, what should I do? If yes, what is best thinset to use on top of this for tile install? I have half a bag of schulter all set but don't want to use the wrong thing. Thanks!
I'm a little late to the party to comment but what I've learned from being in aviation when dealing with sealants especially in areas that can't have moisture is not to use a fuzzy roller or cotton to apply a protection seal. The material will come off in the wet applied seal and become embedded when hardend and will eventually exorb enough moisture to compromise the seal. But you did use the roller on both sides so idk.
For what it's worth I tested some Redgard and no cracks even on a quarter inch thick blob. And it cured all the way thru. It was a warm dry day in case that matters.
Redgard is great... cant wait till Isaac finds out...thousands of jobs later
Amazing video. I got from the video that your a little partial to Ardex 8+9. Probably because it’s “tried and true” but for your purpose, the hydroband cementitious would be better in my opinion Since you still adhere the Kerdi membranes with thinset and not 8+9; 8+9’s quality of being able to dry in the absence of air does not really benefit you. Hydroband cementitious Waterproofing being that it provides less water penetration and coupled with the fact that you only use in a topical application and not to adhere anything, why not just go with the one that provides better protection even if it’s not the one that dries in a vacuum better. Since there is not much use for the specific quality in the way you use it. Or is there a benefit to having that quality of the 8+9 ( complete dry in a vacuum) that I’m not picking up on for the specific method in which you use it. If you have the time, I’d appreciate your thoughts. Thank you for what you do. God Speed.
Awesome videos Isaac, following your progress closely. 👍
Awesome individual and thank you for all that you do to make us all perform at our highest level.
Hi isaac I’m a German tile layer, the water proofing in Germany is really strickt and it all depends on what the waterproofing is put together with. Maybe you can check out the German DIN 18534 it’s splittet in 6 parts and tells you everything about waterproofing and you’ll probably lern something different
Hi, I tried to find documentation on that spec but strangely every document was for a pdf that costs money.
What's nice you can do a full laticrete shower, using your waterproofing method of sheet membrane + cementitious hydroban. If a person cares about having a manufacturer warranty
Do you think it would be worthwhile to test 8+9 at several different mixing ratios and see how different mixing ratios perform. Maybe over different type of surface, like large gap, corner and flat, etc.? Perhaps different mixing ratios fair better over different surfaces, or there is a golden ratio that works best on all.
i love how more and more people in the trades on the internet mention, that it would be easier with the metric system...
I now see why you're left with so much liquid with the 8+9. I feel that you need to do this test over and use the correct amount and mixtures to get the right results.
Exactly! Imagine weighing and accurately measuring one, then just saying “ahhh, that’s about right” on the other. If the Ardex was wetter it would not have so many pinholes. It would flow better to close them up.
@@5degreenegativerake The Ardex was literally uncured due to lack of the liquid component, that's why water was going through it. Just because it looks brown doesn't mean it's sealing the surface!!
Hi Isaac,
I really enjoy your videos, the testing especially. I personally have been in the tile game for 30+ years, 3rd gen master tile mechanic.. my preferred method of waterproofing is redgard ,
One thing I've noticed so far in all my experience, none of theses systems are actually 100% water proof. They get pretty close.. but none are. If you have time, could you look into epoxy materials for a possible option for waterproofing?
My method for showers are : preslope, 40mil pan liner, 1/2 inch durock, 2 inch mud bed, tape and thinset all joints and seams, skim coat all surfaces with modified thinset, and then roll and brush all with redgard 2-3 thin coats..
This system has proven to perform well for me.. but it is time consuming and labor intensive.
Why Durock over the pan liner?
3 thin coats works for me
@@tinman1955 I'm pretty sure he doesn't mean he puts Durock on the pan liner. But it sounds like he said he puts thinset on the entire walls, but that's probably not what he means.
Own a tile store in Pa. I asked my schluter rep about 8+9 and he flipped. Can’t wait to hear his response when I ask him about Kerdi Coll
Of course he did. I’m sure in his eyes any other product is inferior.
I wonder how much the glass substrate is a factor. I’m curious about the performance on separate boxes of plywood, concrete backer board, or other common, in-the-field substrates. My concern is the glass is already impactful factor negating the findings.
Thank you! I've been watching a lot of your videos and I'm halfway through installing a complete Schluter shower using Kerdi board, Schluter ST shower tray, Kerdi membrane/band etc.. I'm paranoid that it might leak! I would like an extra layer of waterproof protection. Do you recommend using the Laticrete Hyrdo Ban over the Schulter membrane and band? I'm installing very expensive marble and if I have to pull it out at a later date because of failure I will be extremely upset. Thanks in advance!
My thoughts and same question?
I use 2 coats of redguard over kerdi but use shluter all mortar mix for kerdi band in shower corners and 3 coats of redguard over kerdi on bottom 6" and pan itself. Never had any problems yet. I kind of like the hydroban cementicous just because it has a longer shelf life and it looks like it wirk better then the 8+9. I wouldn't use it's to apply kerdi band though, just over it. Just because I like applying an extra layer of water proofing on shower floors.
Not using metrics is a*s backwards. We use a metric tape all the time for precision work. Great test, thx.
Ohh i just had another thought. If one protectant is slightly thicker than the other it would make it easier for the roller/ brush fibers to be pulled from the tool and into the wet seal.
Thanks for your effort Issac, very helpful!
I am putting a shower on the second floor of my son and daughter-in-law’s house. I am using Kerdi board 5/8 inch sheet with a schluter shower pan with a curb. I am going to use the kerdi band. I was looking at your videos and thinking about coating all the seams with Ardex 8 +9. Now I have ruled that out after seeing this video. I am now leaning towards the hydro ban, but am very hesitant to do that as well. I am now thinking that the best way to waterproof all the seams is going to get a ten gallon tub and mix Ardex 8+9, Hydro Ban, Red Gaurd, Fiberglass strands, Resin, G flex epoxy, and super glue. I think that it is going to be the best way to get a total water proof job. You might think I am joking but I am totally serious. I have looked into the chemical properties of each compound and have calculated the exact amount to mix in based on the International Society of Waterproofing standardization guidelines to allow for equilibrium stabilization to occur. I will apply the mix using a Ryobi paint sprayer in thin coats to reach a maximum thickness of 90 mils. Immediately after I will hit it very lightly with a blow torch to remove any air bubbles. I will be making a video of this process and I will post it at the end of the job.
thanks for this video. I have a couple of unproven but likely theories for the leaks and cracks. Any form of cement will tend to crack if its too thin or contains too much much water. My theory for why laticrete cracked is too much water. I looked at the data sheet for your proper mix ratio. I guess it was on the bag. My biggest local laticrete distributor doesn't sell this laticrete product. I'm not sure what is the best mix ratio. Seemed like it was too thin. I'd like to see the same test ardex vs regular hydroban (white bucket green lid). Or, try applying a drier version of the cementitious product to a heated and slightly damp surface. I'll bet the bond would have been free of cracks and bubbles. Air bubbles are likely caused by heat. As a membranes are applied, they immediately experience an exothermic curing reaction. In other words, curing liquid membranes give off heat. Thinset on the glass started at room temp. As the membrane cured, got hotter than room temp, and increased the cured thinset temp, any air in the thinset got pushed out and up. This is a common issue with two part glues like epoxy and polyester resins. The secret is to heat up the substrate before applying the next coat. For fiberglass boat repair, we like to warm up the patch area with a heat gun, or do the work as the sun goes down so the hull is cooling when applying epoxy resin. Same with paint and drywall compound. We get much better results when a properly prepared surface is cooling.
Very interesting. Thanks for all this info Isaac! I build about 2 custom bathrooms every year or so. Have been a Laticrete fanboy since going to their Connecticut training in 2017. Love seeing real world scenarios tested. Keep up the good work!
It looked like the whole back of the hydroban side is darker, meaning its ALL completely slightly damp, which would make sense as it's cementitious. The ardex has just pin hole water spots, not damp everywhere. Also, the Ardex was made both times with WAY too much 9 and not enough 8, from my experience. I wonder if this compromised it? Anyways, I think you have it down right using it as a secondary waterproofing and not the main. Great video! Love the testing.
Not at all what I expected,thanks for the test,have a great weekend bud.👊🏼
what type of product would you use for an outdoor waterproof membrane to seal a horizontal crack that is non-structural yet went completely around a gunite hot tub behind the waterline tile. i know there are many products but i was wondering which might be the most flexible in temperature changes yet still waterproof that i could seal the crack with before retiling. i've been getting very little help from the pool builders in the area and yet thats where everyone i talk to tries to send me. i figure the more i know the better.
A few years ago I used a fabric banding material with Redgard. I don't remember the name of it. It absorbed the Redgard and was able to dry out due to the fabric allowing the moisture to evaporate. Has anyone tried that? Thoughts?
I have done two Redgard projects. I used the 6' fabric banding t intersection ngls and to my knowlwdgw, everything has been fine. The pans passed their standing water tests and I have not had callbacks from the customers.
have you tried to install kerdi band or membrane with ardex 8+9 since thinset isn't waterproof? is that even possible, just asking before i go and test it myself
Why not red-guard over the schleuter seams of unmodified thin-set. The mortar will wick water so cover the mortar at the membrane seams with a liquid membrane
Did you use Ardex P51 primer before applying 8+9 it's needed when used over sandy substrate like thinset, self leveller etc.
Also quite weird if that Laticrete product is really cementitious it should harden due contact of water and even cure under water like cement does
Mr. Wizeguy no it's not.
Ever instal Kerdi normally(thinset between layers) but use redguard on top? Don’t think that would stay liquid
Yeah, there is water in the air that would react with the hydroban. Your videos are good stuff. I’m no expert, but I do have a chemistry degree if you want further explanation.
Using schluter sheet membrane and over top of that ardex 8+9, aren't you creating a moisture sandwich given the pin hole test results with the 8+9?
Water penetrated through the 8+9 and sat in the bottom of the glass! With that said, will it not do the same in a shower causing a moisture sandwich and eventually that would lead to seperation of 8+9 and kerdi fabric?
I'm always sceptical about using topical, or sheet membrane in my jobs and with a ton of research and using all products through the years my go to product for waterproofing is now Wedi. With Wedi I find that it's far less parts and steps to install and common sense tells me that less parts and steps equals to a lesser chance of failure!
Just my professional opinion, not knocking your work at all, love your videos and will continue watching!!
Those cementitious membranes require tape over the seams and change of plane.....Awesome video 👍
It is always a good ideal and cheap insurance to use reinforcement tape with roll on membranes. I find mapei tape works best across the board, its a 6" and embeds the thinest in roll on membranes. For cement base roll on, I stick with backer board tape. Either way it's cheap insurance to protect your self and only adds 10-15 extra min to your install.
@@TileCoach Good to know. You did a test where you used a regular fabric with 8+9 and it didn't leak at all. It seems to me that any liquid membrane is better applied with a fabric....8+9, redgard, hydroban etc. The fabric reinforces the installation avoiding cracks and pin holes.
Good video, but you should focus on controls more when performing these tests. Mix ardex exactly as instructed and follow the drying times exactly. If you're not following manufacturers recommendations exactly there's potential for skewed results. Good video and appreciate the time put in. Just making some suggestions, not knocking it at all.
Good comment. He often mixes stuff wrong and continues with the flawed test regardless.
Dont switch on us coach!! 8+9 is the shhhhhh
So I just installed a kirdi system for my shower. I used the schluter all set to install the entire membrane bands and corners. After watching issacs videos I am concerned about my seems. Can I go over all my seams with hydra ban even after using the thin set.
Yes, I dont know why he does not discuss that. Just brush on hydro ban over everything. It will seal over top of the thinset
I thought the Schulter Kerdi board was waterproof and you only needed to embed their tape with thinset in the corners. Am I wrong. Are you adding a layer of the products you are testing over the board and/or corners?
Great job coach!
i use 254p to stick the membrane and my kerdi the seams over dens sheild, then hydroban tank it, although dens Sheildis is not on the recommended install substrate i like it all my tests never leaked and sticks like crazy. My tile shop is ordering me some cementitious this week.
Hi . Looks like you take time to do it right ,I try my best when I do something also . Question . I have seen you remove granite slabs from shower , because of leak . Im planning to put granite slabs on my shower walls . In your experience , what is the best way to attach it to walls ? should I use durock or something else ? Im installing countertops for 15+ years , but no experience in shower area . Thank you .
Have you tried laticrete 9235? A solid installer I know uses that for all his pans. I appreciate the content.
Anyone?
🚨💥Will the kerdi board be covered by the warranty from schluter if using other products on the kerdi board 💥🚨
I suspect that flexing or expansion /contraction or movement from deflection could cause these to tear. Have you tested using a waterproof fabric (such as you apply over a previous crack or joint in the substrate) to see how it would reinforce the product?
I wonder if the Hydro Ban is absorbing any water that might want to migrate through it therefore nothing visible on the glass box test. The 8+9 cures hard faster so any water that wants to migrate cannot be absorbed and shows up in the glass box test. Just my thoughts, thanks for the great videos.
You should try to use fiber glass resin with that fleece, I would bet that it would work great.
How does a cementitious barrier perform over a small micro crack that might open, how can a cement product flex across the crack? That's what I don't understand about these products? All buildings will move to some extent.
Exactly
Good point
I just have the Schluter tray and membrane in the wall. Should I use Hydroban on top of the membrane? Please advise.
So trying to cover up or fix a product that doesn't work in the first place why schluter cost so much fathoms me.
In the technical spec sheet it only lists hard, concrete based products as acceptable substrates. It seems to be susceptible to any movement whatsoever. No schluter (foam) was listed. Thoughts?
I use metric system, MAPEI bags always give metric numbers, and the tile, mostly designed outside US, is natively measured in mm. It makes no sense to use imperial system for tile work.
Thank you so much I learned a lot from you .
Im doing a remodel now, and I saw my tile guy is using a Waterproofing and Crack Prevention called REDGARD. Can you check on this and do a video
Great video !
Hydroban waterproof membrane comes already mixed just like redgard but it requires no fabric in the field or in seams under 1/8th inch. It is used for swimming pools no liners needed. Hard to find a better waterproof membrane than Hydroban. 2 Coats is all you need
Isaac lookin like red from That 70s Show 😂
Could the reason be that a thinner mixture actually penetrates better into the porous cement surface? Yeah, 8+9 is super thick, but if it's that thick, can it actually penetrate the surface, or just sit on top of it? Especially since it's brushed on, it's not really being keyed in under trowel force like thinset would be. It's the same idea too with Redgard and the primer coats, one thin coat to help it fully absorb into the porous surface, then your next coats thicker at full strength.
So you use 8+9 instead of thinset? Or do you go over the seams and top coat the joints with 8+9?
If you are just top coating the seems wouldn't the air curing not be an issue since it's not between the layers of kerdi? Seems the hydroban was a better result.
I wonder if building inspectors will change the way the check showers now…
What if you use the HydroBan C as the thin-set to install sheet membrane?
Have you ever tested TEC HydraFlex as a waterproofing? It claims to be more flexible than RedGard and designed for crack filling but is also an air dry product
So the Hydraband relies on hydrophobic properties of their product? Be used on rock solid framing because it doesn’t look flexible.
Just a question, after the schluter system has dried you could use red guard just to “paint” the thinset that was used to glue them together since you will have air circulation to dry it out. But definitely not as a substitute for thinset in “glueing ” them together. Am I right?
Excellent and informative video. Thanks again. You beat me too the punch with the last part of the test where you adhered two membranes. I have a question though. Will unmodified thinset not behave the same as Hydroban when used to set banding and corners? I’ve pulled it apart the next day and have also seen that same crumbly texture with unmodified. Since Hydroban is cementitious it likely could use more time to cure between membranes, but then it could possibly behave more like modified and take forever. It would be interesting to see a direct comparison of Kerdi banding and corners set with unmodified and Hydroban.
I wonder if I figured out a possible cause of the air bubbles. In drywall patching fast set first coat causes bubbles in subsequent coats. I wonder if your fast setting thin set has something to do with the bubbles?
I am a tad confused. It seems like you prefered the the cementitious over the 8 +9, but then you talked about the membrane not being cured and waterproofed with use of the cementitious product...
I wonder if the wet spots are small lumps of powder that haven't mixed properly? What are your conclusions about which product is better?