Just a heads up - the two washers that come with the reservoir kit to space out the bracket DO NOT fit the OEM clamp. The OD is too big. I didn't get the Brembo clamp as I'm using bar end mirrors. Luckily I had a top hat spacer in my parts bin that fit
There are two switches in the assembly: one for the cruise control (deactivation) and one for the brake switch. Reworking the plunger is part of solution, but it's important to alter the timing between the two switch engagements so that the brake lights turn on when you start braking. Otherwise, the brakes can slow the bike down appreciably without any brake light illumination. The shim, although small, sets the proper timing between the switches.
During this action today I broke off the small contacts that have to be pushed into the switch. It should be pointed out here that the contact has to be pressed when assembling the two parts so that the triggers can be properly inserted again. I broke my contacts so that I have to order a new cable ...
Hi, is the reason for so much modification on the switch due to the different lever? I'm recently upgraded to the R1 m/c and using the oem lever and the "clicks" seem spot on?
Not the lever, unfortunately. The switch will operate functionally correct if it's not modified. However, you'll notice that the brakes will start to slow the bike down before the brake light illuminates. It's only a small amount of brake pressure, but if you're a trail brake'r or feathering it in traffic, splitting lanes, etc., - you might be scrubbing significant speed without alerting those behind you.
You probably dont give a shit but does any of you know of a method to get back into an instagram account? I somehow lost the login password. I would love any tips you can give me!
@Crew Nash i really appreciate your reply. I found the site through google and im in the hacking process atm. Seems to take quite some time so I will reply here later with my results.
Unfortunately, cannot reuse the complete lever. However, contact Pazzo about getting the proper ‘knee’ for the R1 lever. That part adapts a common lever to a specific master cylinder.
Great question - we haven't tried one to find out. The switch looks to be the same, so there is a good chance it'd be the same process. If you try it out, please give us an update!
Can you replace an axial master cylinder with any radial master cylinder that fits, or do you have to be mindful of the piston diameter? I have an F4i with a radial master cylinder from a 2007-2012 CBR600RR and someone said it's got too much pressure and is going to blow the caliper seals.
You should be aware of the change in piston diameter. This won't "blow your caliper seals" (if they're in good condition), but the piston diameter change will affect hydraulic leverage - which will determine lever throw and feel.
@@StoltecMoto Thanks, that's good to know. The lever throw and feel are great right after a bleed. Over a few days the lever gets spongy and starts to travel too far toward the bar. Pumping it up or bleeding again helps for a while. I suspect the MC seals are tired. Do you guys sell seal kits?
@@ThePsvan use OEM seals if you can get them. There are plenty of offshore replacements, but they aren’t as good. Don’t skimp in the braking department! We can get them, but frankly, our oem parts prices are no cheaper than what you can buy online or at your local dealer.
@@StoltecMoto Yeah, I like to go OEM for carburetor parts too (different bike). The usual parts houses are slower these days but I've found OEM parts from good eBay sellers by typing in part numbers. Thanks a lot for all the tips. Subscribed
Ich habe heute bei dieser Aktion die kleinen Kontakte abgebrochen, die in den Schalter geschoben werden müssen.. Hier sollte darauf hin gewiesen werden, dass der Kontakt beim Montieren der beiden Teile gedrückt werden muss, damit sich die Auslöser wieder vernüftig einfügen können. Ich habe mir die Kontakte abgebrochen, so dass ich mir eion neues Kabel bestellen muss...
Hey. I managed to get parts second hand then after installing I noticed the brake light coming in slightly late then I watched this…. I’ve had a look on your site and can’t see the shim sold seperate (and wouldn’t be financially viable being in Nz) are you able to tell me how thick the shim is?
Professional install videos like this are what sells products and allows people worried about the install to pull the trigger. THANK YOU
Thanks for the feedback!
Just a heads up - the two washers that come with the reservoir kit to space out the bracket DO NOT fit the OEM clamp. The OD is too big. I didn't get the Brembo clamp as I'm using bar end mirrors. Luckily I had a top hat spacer in my parts bin that fit
Leather ? Oh you mean Lever ! 👍😂 great video .
Incredibly detailed video mate thank you kindly
Really good explanation
Whats the purpose of the shim in the brake switch? Simply filing down the nub/plunger isnt enough?
There are two switches in the assembly: one for the cruise control (deactivation) and one for the brake switch. Reworking the plunger is part of solution, but it's important to alter the timing between the two switch engagements so that the brake lights turn on when you start braking. Otherwise, the brakes can slow the bike down appreciably without any brake light illumination. The shim, although small, sets the proper timing between the switches.
During this action today I broke off the small contacts that have to be pushed into the switch. It should be pointed out here that the contact has to be pressed when assembling the two parts so that the triggers can be properly inserted again. I broke my contacts so that I have to order a new cable ...
Me too thanks to this worm!
Hi, is the reason for so much modification on the switch due to the different lever? I'm recently upgraded to the R1 m/c and using the oem lever and the "clicks" seem spot on?
Not the lever, unfortunately.
The switch will operate functionally correct if it's not modified. However, you'll notice that the brakes will start to slow the bike down before the brake light illuminates. It's only a small amount of brake pressure, but if you're a trail brake'r or feathering it in traffic, splitting lanes, etc., - you might be scrubbing significant speed without alerting those behind you.
Awesome! Do you sell any kit for a Kawasaki Z900 2021? Thx!
Not yet, but we’d love to! We’d need a customer bike for fitment testing, so if you know someone in the Pa, NJ area, have them contact us.
You probably dont give a shit but does any of you know of a method to get back into an instagram account?
I somehow lost the login password. I would love any tips you can give me!
@Marcus Beckham instablaster =)
@Crew Nash i really appreciate your reply. I found the site through google and im in the hacking process atm.
Seems to take quite some time so I will reply here later with my results.
@Crew Nash it did the trick and I now got access to my account again. Im so happy:D
Thank you so much, you really help me out !
Is there a way with this kit to use the levers currently on the bike I'm running pazzo levers right now and don't wanna have to buy a new set?
Unfortunately, cannot reuse the complete lever. However, contact Pazzo about getting the proper ‘knee’ for the R1 lever. That part adapts a common lever to a specific master cylinder.
@@StoltecMoto awesome thanks for the quick reply and with that knee would I still have to modify the brake switch?
@@jaredp1426 yes. That’s a separate function.
@@StoltecMoto awesome thanks for all the info!
Regarding the brake switch, do I have to make the same amends to the brake switch from a 2019 Yamaha Tracer 900 GT?
Great question - we haven't tried one to find out. The switch looks to be the same, so there is a good chance it'd be the same process. If you try it out, please give us an update!
Can you replace an axial master cylinder with any radial master cylinder that fits, or do you have to be mindful of the piston diameter? I have an F4i with a radial master cylinder from a 2007-2012 CBR600RR and someone said it's got too much pressure and is going to blow the caliper seals.
You should be aware of the change in piston diameter. This won't "blow your caliper seals" (if they're in good condition), but the piston diameter change will affect hydraulic leverage - which will determine lever throw and feel.
@@StoltecMoto Thanks, that's good to know. The lever throw and feel are great right after a bleed. Over a few days the lever gets spongy and starts to travel too far toward the bar. Pumping it up or bleeding again helps for a while. I suspect the MC seals are tired. Do you guys sell seal kits?
@@ThePsvan use OEM seals if you can get them. There are plenty of offshore replacements, but they aren’t as good. Don’t skimp in the braking department! We can get them, but frankly, our oem parts prices are no cheaper than what you can buy online or at your local dealer.
@@StoltecMoto Yeah, I like to go OEM for carburetor parts too (different bike). The usual parts houses are slower these days but I've found OEM parts from good eBay sellers by typing in part numbers. Thanks a lot for all the tips. Subscribed
Excellent 👌
Where this master cylinder come from? R1 or aftermarket product? Tanks for the answer!
We include OEM Nissin from the current 2015 R1. Best value on the market (yes, that includes you, Brembo RCS).
What lever is required if not MT10 spec? An R1 lever?
Yes. 2015-2020 (and likely 2021) YZF-R1.
Great job
Three topics to avoid during Thanksgiving visits: religion, politics, brake bleeding.
Helps me a lot 😉 thank u
Happy to help. Ride safe!
Ich habe heute bei dieser Aktion die kleinen Kontakte abgebrochen, die in den Schalter geschoben werden müssen.. Hier sollte darauf hin gewiesen werden, dass der Kontakt beim Montieren der beiden Teile gedrückt werden muss, damit sich die Auslöser wieder vernüftig einfügen können. Ich habe mir die Kontakte abgebrochen, so dass ich mir eion neues Kabel bestellen muss...
Hey.
I managed to get parts second hand then after installing I noticed the brake light coming in slightly late then I watched this…. I’ve had a look on your site and can’t see the shim sold seperate (and wouldn’t be financially viable being in Nz) are you able to tell me how thick the shim is?
The shim is 8 mm OD x 6 mm ID x 0.3 mm. Let us know if you have any other questions...