2012 Acura TL has about 85k. I called the dealer to see how much timing belt, tuneup would cost, so I could budget for next year service. They want around 2k… I think I’m going to get to know u and your videos really well!!!
Great job. Detailed and knowledgeable, now I feel confident I could do a timing belt and water pump change with the necessary tools at home. Keep up the good work. I learn a lot from ETCG cause he is real and very clever like you.
Thanks for putting up this tutorial. It really helps to see how difficult this job is going to be and made me decide to do this job myself. I'm half way through my replacement on a 2006 Acura TL @ 80K original miles. Just got the new water pump in and putting on the new timing belt. It was getting dark so I'm going to put the belt on tomorrow in good light. I've watched Eric the car guy and Eric at South Main Auto do this job. Everyone shows their own way of doing it. I didn't have to remove the plenum solenoid but I removed the power steering pump all the way out. The hoses are still supple. You do a great job of showing where all the bolts are and the laser pointer is a great idea. I was amazed at how tight it is trying to get at some of the bolts. Wish I had a lift. I've done a lot of shade tree mechanic work in the past but this is my first timing belt replacement. Thanks for your clear instructions and for going over all the tools needed. I bought a 3/8" Ryobi battery ratchet wrench today, similar to yours. It helps with a lot of the bolt removals. Also got an NitroCat 1200-K pneumatic impact and the HD socket. My ancient Chicago Pneumatic gun wouldn't budge the crank bolt but the NitroCat zipped it off immediately. Having the right tools makes the job easier. I sprung for a coolant refill kit too and the very necessary long arm straight wrenches.
I was doing it yesterday, marked the belts, but was in rush and fucked up marks. Now I have to install the belt with no marks. Tried many times but I'm getting slack on 2 segments(crank - 2nd bank sprocket and 2nd - 1st sprocket) if everything is aligned. Now I think I have to move crank and cam sprockets little bit to get a good tension on a belt but not sure if it'll work. Any idea?
Thank you for this video. After watching and you showing the little bits left off plus the cutting of the lower cover. I see the care you have put in the videos you bring to the channel.
Awesome,this guy spares us the worry for crank position sensor getting wet,I knew that wasn't a problem,if ur worried,just cover it with a plastic bag,DEFNLY NO NEED TO REMOVE..there's ppl out there that will tell you the doors need to come off
I have that Kimo battery ratchet and it’s fantastic! Got it with 2 batteries for $71.00 and it’s worth every penny! I have the Milwaukee battery ratchets at work, but for the price the Kimo is great!
Replaced the timing belt on our 02 MDX at 147K. Original Gates belt was in perfect condition but the tensioner pulley bearing was near failure with significant blue discoloration of the bearing retainer due to overheating. I suspect many belt failures could be traced to seized tensioner or idler bearings that destroy an otherwise good belt. My original tensioner was solid with no leaks but, like Bundy says, you’re already in knee deep so replace it! Take your time, mark the new belt carefully, and don’t forget that crank key. These motors last forever with just basic care - truly fine engineering.
What do you recommend timing belt set for Honda?, thanks for making this video, I have confidence that I can do my own, this one will save me at least $1000 ...
Great video Bundy. I did my 2006 honda Odyssey timing belt and water pump for the crank bolt i have Ryobi 1/2 inch impact wrench with lyle socket it came out like a butter.
Great info, on a great J Series motor. These hummmmmm and are very quiet cars, in the EXL V6 Accord line. Too bad they don't offer them in the new Accords. Too bad you're not closer, I would let you have at it with mine.
Thanks for the video. I'm retired, so I have the time to do it myself, but not the money to pay to get it done. They want 1000 dollars to do it. So I'm going to do it myself. 😊
Of all the vids I watched on this..I always pick one that I play and pause through a job to get I right,I like this one cause he thinks like me,no unessary extra work,I saw one guy go as far as taking the whole computer out, IT'S 100% NOT NEEDED,idk it just pissed me off lol
At 49:12 you can clearly see the control arm bushing. It looks seriously CRACKED/fractured. Did anyone else notice that? Or is it the lighting is not optimal and I'm wrong? I did like the video, good job explaining how to do it and what to be mindful of so it's done correctly.
I used this video to replace the timing belt in my Honda. Actually had the laptop in the garage.... Great video. Now I have a question. I think you are the only one who can answer this. I took off the intake manifold to clean out that exhaust recirc port. Again. I tried to unplug the censor in the back of the intake manifold, driver side. The connection broke. I used super glue to get it together. What is that sensor so I can replace the sensor and the connection. To go on a bit. I cleaned the port and gas mileage jumped from 27 to 29, almost 30 MPG. A few days later a 401 code started coming up every time I started and ran the car for 5 minutes and it appears the gas gauge goes down faster than it did on my 65 Olds with a 425 CI engine. It is a 2000 Accord V6. I will have to look up and test the EGR valve. But what is that senor on the manifold?
Those timing cover bolts (short flange bolt)are HARD ASF to find,ppl steal a few here n there..you can only get m OEM ,rocks hardware don't have m,Lowes MAYBE idk
Need help please History. My 99 accord j30a1 had a blown headgasket at #1. The headgasket was a very small leak for the longest time throwing p0301, p0300 & p1399 when only very cold (below 32 degrees outside) but the miss would go away during the warmer parts of the year. It took the longest time to diagnose due to its very unusual issue. The headgasket at #1 finally let go & showed its ugly truth bout december of last year. I've since pulled both heads & sent them off to a wonderful machine shop. The machine shop surfaced both heads & found all exhaust valves slightly leaking as well & those were replaced. The heads came back & everything was assembled with new timing belt, water pump, seals at cam gears & oil pump seal. All timing is perfect tdc checked & verified multiple times prior to start up & rotated by hand x8 revolutions by hand no plugs in to make sure everything was smooth end to end. Upon starting the engine 1st startup with oil pressure up (cranked with no fuel & no ignition) it fired up right away but I could hear a misfire once again. My fear was true as the money light came on with p0302 this time. Note the original miss was p0301. It has relatively new denso plugs & ngk plug wires. Compression was checked & every cylinder has 180-182. I checked & removed all fuel injectors at 12ohms each. A light was used at each connector & each was firing when cranked. Every plug was checked & all have spark. In an attempt to further find anything I swapped all x3 rear fuel injectors with the x3 front. I also swapped all plugs in the front with all plugs in the rear. Upon startup (again) the miss is still there but is p0303?! Is my car cursed & should I call a priest? Any help would be the greatest. Thank you
@@bundysgarage yes 1999 has distributor & plug wires no coil on plug. The cap & rotor was changed bout 6 months ago. Oh forgot to mention the vehicle has 125K miles on the clock. Also valves were adjusted to spec after the heads were back on. All of the rocker lost motion assembly was removed prior to the heads going to the machine shop so upon assembly valves & such were adjusted. Basically all gaskets from the oil pick up O ring to the spark plug seals are new. I did find a small promise this morning tho. Even tho the denso plugs are newish 5k miles I found the new miss in #3. I took the plug directly from #3 & moved it to #6 then did a drop test on #6. #6 now has the miss, so yeah its a bad plug? Keeping fingers crossed
Yeah that what I thought. The 99’s still had distributors. I would throw those Densos out and replace them all with NGK’s. Just make sure you get them from a reliable source (NOT EBAY) there are a ton of fake spark plugs out there that have wiped out engines.
@@bundysgarage so I went to my local O'Reilly auto parts & picked up some fresh new ngk & right at startup its silky smooth. I still have to flush the cooling system & put some miles on it but all seems well. I looked all around for ngk vs denso plugs & couldn't find anything conclusive but for sure the j series doesn't like denso plugs. I did find a few interesting things bout the j series while tearing it down & assembly, particularly the backing plates behind the cams mounted to the head have a small rubber channel seal along the bottom. It likes to fall out while setting the heads down & my rear head tried to trap the rubber between the head & block. Without due diligence that little piece of rubber could be a real pain in the butt & no has ever even mentioned it. Anyways flush & test drive awaits. Use ngk plugs lol
2012 Acura TL has about 85k. I called the dealer to see how much timing belt, tuneup would cost, so I could budget for next year service. They want around 2k… I think I’m going to get to know u and your videos really well!!!
Excellent as always
Thx.
2012 Acura TL has about 85k. I called the dealer to see how much timing belt, tuneup would cost, so I could budget for next year service. They want around 2k… I think I’m going to get to know u and your videos really well!!!
Great job. Detailed and knowledgeable, now I feel confident I could do a timing belt and water pump change with the necessary tools at home. Keep up the good work. I learn a lot from ETCG cause he is real and very clever like you.
Thanks for putting up this tutorial. It really helps to see how difficult this job is going to be and made me decide to do this job myself. I'm half way through my replacement on a 2006 Acura TL @ 80K original miles. Just got the new water pump in and putting on the new timing belt. It was getting dark so I'm going to put the belt on tomorrow in good light.
I've watched Eric the car guy and Eric at South Main Auto do this job. Everyone shows their own way of doing it. I didn't have to remove the plenum solenoid but I removed the power steering pump all the way out. The hoses are still supple.
You do a great job of showing where all the bolts are and the laser pointer is a great idea. I was amazed at how tight it is trying to get at some of the bolts. Wish I had a lift. I've done a lot of shade tree mechanic work in the past but this is my first timing belt replacement. Thanks for your clear instructions and for going over all the tools needed.
I bought a 3/8" Ryobi battery ratchet wrench today, similar to yours. It helps with a lot of the bolt removals. Also got an NitroCat 1200-K pneumatic impact and the HD socket. My ancient Chicago Pneumatic gun wouldn't budge the crank bolt but the NitroCat zipped it off immediately. Having the right tools makes the job easier. I sprung for a coolant refill kit too and the very necessary long arm straight wrenches.
I got through this same project got to putting it back together and would have been a life saver to have my belt marked
I was doing it yesterday, marked the belts, but was in rush and fucked up marks. Now I have to install the belt with no marks. Tried many times but I'm getting slack on 2 segments(crank - 2nd bank sprocket and 2nd - 1st sprocket) if everything is aligned. Now I think I have to move crank and cam sprockets little bit to get a good tension on a belt but not sure if it'll work. Any idea?
MAkes it way easier if the belt is marked. I do 2 marks per cam and 2 for the crank. That way I don't have to second guess myself.
Thank you for this video. After watching and you showing the little bits left off plus the cutting of the lower cover. I see the care you have put in the videos you bring to the channel.
Just curious, where did you keep getting the parts to replace all the screwed up and missing ones? Junk yard or dealer? that had to be annoying...
Awesome,this guy spares us the worry for crank position sensor getting wet,I knew that wasn't a problem,if ur worried,just cover it with a plastic bag,DEFNLY NO NEED TO REMOVE..there's ppl out there that will tell you the doors need to come off
I’ve never had a problem with crank sensor. Right people will tell you, you gotta take off the trunk lid to do the job 😜
I have that Kimo battery ratchet and it’s fantastic! Got it with 2 batteries for $71.00 and it’s worth every penny! I have the Milwaukee battery ratchets at work, but for the price the Kimo is great!
Replaced the timing belt on our 02 MDX at 147K. Original Gates belt was in perfect condition but the tensioner pulley bearing was near failure with significant blue discoloration of the bearing retainer due to overheating. I suspect many belt failures could be traced to seized tensioner or idler bearings that destroy an otherwise good belt. My original tensioner was solid with no leaks but, like Bundy says, you’re already in knee deep so replace it! Take your time, mark the new belt carefully, and don’t forget that crank key. These motors last forever with just basic care - truly fine engineering.
Thanks you sir...I have 2012 v6 74k miles and I'm planning to change my timing belt...
What do you recommend timing belt set for Honda?, thanks for making this video, I have confidence that I can do my own, this one will save me at least $1000 ...
Great video Bundy. I did my 2006 honda Odyssey timing belt and water pump for the crank bolt i have Ryobi 1/2 inch impact wrench with lyle socket it came out like a butter.
i would definitely hire this guy to do this job on my 2014 accord ex-l.
Great info, on a great J Series motor. These hummmmmm and are very quiet cars, in the EXL V6 Accord line.
Too bad they don't offer them in the new Accords. Too bad you're not closer, I would let you have at it
with mine.
Love this video... very informative and excellent tips. I'm subscribing for sure!
Thx
Thanks for the video. I'm retired, so I have the time to do it myself, but not the money to pay to get it done. They want 1000 dollars to do it. So I'm going to do it myself. 😊
Of all the vids I watched on this..I always pick one that I play and pause through a job to get I right,I like this one cause he thinks like me,no unessary extra work,I saw one guy go as far as taking the whole computer out, IT'S 100% NOT NEEDED,idk it just pissed me off lol
Can u send link to part 2 pls great job man
Wayyyy Kool. Thx a Ton for the Post.
Did u do part 2 video putting everything back together ?
At 49:12 you can clearly see the control arm bushing. It looks seriously CRACKED/fractured. Did anyone else notice that? Or is it the lighting is not optimal and I'm wrong? I did like the video, good job explaining how to do it and what to be mindful of so it's done correctly.
My timint belt broke how do i line back up the cams without the belt
Good Stuff Gives me confidence to do it my self. Do you have the link to Part 2?
I’m still editing it together but should have it soon. Check this one out in the meantime. ua-cam.com/video/lEg9_OCas_w/v-deo.html
I need part 2 !!!!😢
I used this video to replace the timing belt in my Honda. Actually had the laptop in the garage.... Great video. Now I have a question. I think you are the only one who can answer this. I took off the intake manifold to clean out that exhaust recirc port. Again. I tried to unplug the censor in the back of the intake manifold, driver side. The connection broke. I used super glue to get it together. What is that sensor so I can replace the sensor and the connection. To go on a bit. I cleaned the port and gas mileage jumped from 27 to 29, almost 30 MPG. A few days later a 401 code started coming up every time I started and ran the car for 5 minutes and it appears the gas gauge goes down faster than it did on my 65 Olds with a 425 CI engine. It is a 2000 Accord V6. I will have to look up and test the EGR valve. But what is that senor on the manifold?
gotta always use new egr gaskets
How do I stop camshaft from moving when rotate the crankshaft
Do You Have Any Honda B16a Timing Belt Video?
I don't but my buddy Eric the Car Guy might.
Those timing cover bolts (short flange bolt)are HARD ASF to find,ppl steal a few here n there..you can only get m OEM ,rocks hardware don't have m,Lowes MAYBE idk
I’m not sure if I missed it or not but did you support the engine before you took the motor mounts off?
Yes support the engine after taking the motor mounts off.
Would this apply to my 2003 Accord V6
Where are you located ? Do you have a shop ?
Southern California
Need help please
History.
My 99 accord j30a1 had a blown headgasket at #1. The headgasket was a very small leak for the longest time throwing p0301, p0300 & p1399 when only very cold (below 32 degrees outside) but the miss would go away during the warmer parts of the year. It took the longest time to diagnose due to its very unusual issue.
The headgasket at #1 finally let go & showed its ugly truth bout december of last year. I've since pulled both heads & sent them off to a wonderful machine shop. The machine shop surfaced both heads & found all exhaust valves slightly leaking as well & those were replaced.
The heads came back & everything was assembled with new timing belt, water pump, seals at cam gears & oil pump seal. All timing is perfect tdc checked & verified multiple times prior to start up & rotated by hand x8 revolutions by hand no plugs in to make sure everything was smooth end to end.
Upon starting the engine 1st startup with oil pressure up (cranked with no fuel & no ignition) it fired up right away but I could hear a misfire once again. My fear was true as the money light came on with p0302 this time. Note the original miss was p0301. It has relatively new denso plugs & ngk plug wires.
Compression was checked & every cylinder has 180-182. I checked & removed all fuel injectors at 12ohms each. A light was used at each connector & each was firing when cranked. Every plug was checked & all have spark.
In an attempt to further find anything I swapped all x3 rear fuel injectors with the x3 front. I also swapped all plugs in the front with all plugs in the rear.
Upon startup (again) the miss is still there but is p0303?! Is my car cursed & should I call a priest? Any help would be the greatest.
Thank you
Does yours have a distributor?
@@bundysgarage yes 1999 has distributor & plug wires no coil on plug. The cap & rotor was changed bout 6 months ago.
Oh forgot to mention the vehicle has 125K miles on the clock. Also valves were adjusted to spec after the heads were back on. All of the rocker lost motion assembly was removed prior to the heads going to the machine shop so upon assembly valves & such were adjusted.
Basically all gaskets from the oil pick up O ring to the spark plug seals are new.
I did find a small promise this morning tho. Even tho the denso plugs are newish 5k miles I found the new miss in #3. I took the plug directly from #3 & moved it to #6 then did a drop test on #6. #6 now has the miss, so yeah its a bad plug?
Keeping fingers crossed
Yeah that what I thought. The 99’s still had distributors. I would throw those Densos out and replace them all with NGK’s. Just make sure you get them from a reliable source (NOT EBAY) there are a ton of fake spark plugs out there that have wiped out engines.
@@bundysgarage so I went to my local O'Reilly auto parts & picked up some fresh new ngk & right at startup its silky smooth.
I still have to flush the cooling system & put some miles on it but all seems well.
I looked all around for ngk vs denso plugs & couldn't find anything conclusive but for sure the j series doesn't like denso plugs.
I did find a few interesting things bout the j series while tearing it down & assembly, particularly the backing plates behind the cams mounted to the head have a small rubber channel seal along the bottom. It likes to fall out while setting the heads down & my rear head tried to trap the rubber between the head & block. Without due diligence that little piece of rubber could be a real pain in the butt & no has ever even mentioned it.
Anyways flush & test drive awaits. Use ngk plugs lol
Where is part 2 pls
16:40 (pulley)
2012 Acura TL has about 85k. I called the dealer to see how much timing belt, tuneup would cost, so I could budget for next year service. They want around 2k… I think I’m going to get to know u and your videos really well!!!