Hats off to you sir. This format of instructional video is perfect. No blabbering bs constantly. Very clear and quick. I normally speed up automotive videos and skip forward but not once did i have to do this with your video. Thankyou
Thanks for the post! Glad you found it useful and informative. We try stay on point with our videos. To support our channel, give us a thumbs up and to get notifications of new videos, please subscribe.
Awesome and showed reassembly. Most just tell you to put it back reverse of how you took it apart. I may attempt this myself. The marks on the belt is a very nice trick of the trade! as that is my biggest concern. I'm doing this on a 1999 model which actually has a little more room to work.
@@hardlymovingpro love the simplicity of your tutorials. People tend to leave cameras pointing at ceilings lol. What brand power steering pump was that. My type s look deferent. Maybe after market. What water pump you used. I gotta check if I’m running oem. Car engine is fine but the belt,pullies fans all soon harshly loud.
Just finished my first water pump/timing belt on a 2000 Base TL. Although there are a few slight differences ( the 2000 is 2nd generation, '04 TL is 3rd. Small details like 2 drive belts instead of one, no bolt on "keeper" around crankshaft timing cog, etc.) There's no way I could have done this without this video. I probably watched it 25 times total, starting and starting it countless times. I cannot tell you how good I feel right now, accomplishing such a daunting task, all the while standing on the shoulders of the genius who made this video. Thank you sir. You should consider teaching a shop class for kids. I can see you changing young lives like you have mine.
Hey that's great news! Performing a timing belt and water pump replacement is a big accomplishment for someone who's never done it before. Also, think of all the money saved if you had the dealer do it. To support this channel and to get updates on new videos, please subscribe.
Torque specifications are very important. Furthermore, you should always ensure the timing belt is installed correctly by rotating the engine with a breaker bar twice. if your marks still line up after those two revolutions then finish putting it back together. if not then your still out of time even if it is only a single tooth this will cause damage to the engine if you dont ensure its lined up Correctly. Other than these two things you did an outstanding job. Master tech here. 35 years exp.
Thanks for your post! I use paint marks and transfer them to the new belt to avoid wasting time with the "two revolution" technique after belt installation. If there's no belt slack between the cams and cranks, you're in alignment; however, engines that do not have have a self adjusting pulley tensioner (mostly the 4 cylinder engines) do require rotation to allow the belt to seat. But instead of rotating the engine, I start the engine which I found to better seat the belt.
On my channel I film my mechanical repairs. I'm getting ready to install a water pump on this same car. I searched youtube to see if anyone else has made any good videos? Sometimes I'll find either no videos or really bad videos that helps me decide if I should take the time to make a video. In this case there is no reason for me to upload a video. You did an excellent job on your video that I would just be wasting my time. Great job!
Thank you! I didn't even notice that 15 minutes had elapsed and the tutorial video was over. This is the first youtube vid I did not skip ahead or have to go back and watch again, or check to see how much more time there was. Your video was spot on, easy to follow, hear clearly and understand. No time for the mind to wander. hahahaha. After watching, I can definitely do this with full confidence. I have all the tools to do the job too and know my bolt sizes too. BTW, I bet it took you longer to edit and master this tutorial video than it did actually doing the job. You Rock. Cheers!
This is a high quality video. The content is very detailed. The camera angles give you a great view of the work being done and the lighting really allows you to see the parts that he is describing. Very helpful!!!
There's a few things I would have done differently but that's because I'm picky. With that said, I think this is a perfect example of a how to video. No BS, no ridiculously drawn out intro. You did a fine job sir thank you for the video.
Thanks for your comment and support! If I were to do a timing belt job on this engine a few months from now, I'm sure I'd do something different or slightly out of order.
Been debating on buying or not buying a TL because I would have to change the timing belt right after purchasing it... This video has made me more confident that I could do the service myself. Great video!!!!!!!!
Additionally: Draining the coolant: There is a nice and fairly easy to access drain plug to drain the coolant out the engine block and water pump. It is located on the back of the engine in front of the steering tie rod link. You can see it from inside the front right wheel well. Drain the coolant before taking the water pump off so that most of the coolant is gone Knocking noise!!!! If changing the timing belt because of a knocking noise then make sure you get a timing belt kit with the shim that needs to be installed also on the timing belt idle pulley. If not, the noise may come back down the road (Apparently Acura says its the timing belt slapping on the engine mount) TSB 08-031
Just successfully did the timing belt, bearings, and water pump on my 2002 Honda Accord V6! I would never have felt remotely confident enough to try it, had I not found this amazing video first! I had a few issues: the harmonic balancer bolt was dead-locked. I was even prepared with the exact high-mass impact socket attached to my heavy duty 1/2" impact...and it wouldn't budge at all. I eventually had to employ the bump start method to get it off. Highly stressful, but it worked on the 2nd try! The other issue I had was that my tensioner was a different design from the one you re-used in the video. Instead of a pin, mine comes with this ridiculous "clip" over the ends, compressing the whole thing together. But the spot where it goes was so tight, as soon as I got it down there it came off. At that point I thought I was totally screwed. After over an hour working on it, a buddy of mine comes over and we discover(using the old tensioner) that you can not use a vise to get it compressed again. You have to remove the nut on the back end and use a flat head screw driver to back up the tensioner to get the clip on. I then zip tied the clip on and after a long struggle I was finally able to get it bolted down. I had to thread in the top bolt on the tensioner and then use every bit of strength I had in me to push the tensioner bearing up so that I could force the tensioner in place and thread in the lower bolt...it was definitely the toughest part of the whole job! I also replaced the 2 other drive belts. I've never done a job this complicated and having your video in the garage with me was a life saver. After all parts were in and engine was ready, she started up on a dime and I took a 20 minute drive on freeway. THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR MAKING THESE INCREDIBLE VIDEOS!!! THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR MAKING THIS VIDEO SIR!!! I wish you sooooooo much health, happiness, and abundance. Please reply if anyone reading this has any questions for me about my specific vehicle or whatever, I will check periodically. Oh, and I'm now a faithful subscriber. Mazel Tov, it's a boy!
Good story and glad it all worked out for you! You saved over $1,000 if you had let the dealer do it! Surprised the bump stop method worked for you. I began using the high mass socket when the bump stop didn't work for me anymore. If you remove all the timing belt slack to the left and right of the tensioner pulley, you shouldn't have had any problem bolting on the tensioner. That would mean moving the rear cam counter clockwise and the lower crank clockwise.
@@hardlymovingpro The shop wanted $1500 and I only paid $400! So over 1k! I knew it had to be a slack issue but couldn't really figure out what to do in the moment. Thankfully I was able to force it in; but thank you, I'll remember that next time. And yeah, I was totally expecting the high mass socket to work, but it failed hard. Thank G-D the bump start did work, cuz I don't know what I would have done if it hadn't. So you can move the cams and crankshaft separately and in different directions independent of each other? I would not have thought to do that.
FANTASTIC video - best I've seen in a long time. Quick, clear, fast forwarded exactly when needed and freeze-frame with arrows when needed. PERFECT. Can't wait to get cracking on my new-to-me 04 TL!
@@hardlymovingpro So I'm into it today and so far so good, but now I'm trying to line up cams and I have no yellow marks...what do the marks look like otherwise if there's no yellow paint to go by? Another question: With your method of making (blue) marks and transferring to the new belt, why do I even need to find TDC? The car is currently properly timed; I just need to leave everything as it is, mark the cams and crank (and belt), transfer marks and replace, right? Why would it matter where the engine is in its cycle (TDC vs. wherever it randomly stopped when I turned it off) as long as I don't move anything and just replace the belt in the same spot?
Kudos to ya sir. Great great video. None of the blabbing about stuff that's not important. Straight and to the point. First DOHC I've ever done and thanks to you it worked perfect. Can't say thank you enough for this FANTASTIC video
Thank you for the instructional video. I am not mechanic, but, this enhances my appreciation for those with the mechanical skill and aptitude to handle this installation.
I LOVE this channel. So no judgements just you dont need to disconnect the hoses for power steering pump. Just remove mounting bolts then move whole pump, with hoses attached, ontop of upper intake. Removing the 10mm hose clamp on back cylinder head also helps get more play in high pressure hose. Just to save someone somewhere some time.
Thank you, i did my 04 accord, and i followed all ur instructions and it works out very well thank you. I noticed to remove the camshaft bolt was like going to war witbout a powerful gun. Always make sure your gun have more than 700lb pressure to remove it easily.
Nice work man. You make it look easy . Received all my OEM water pump kit and misc stuff to do this job today on my wife’s car. So glad I found your video.
Just did this on wifes Honda pilot and I learned a couple new course words doing the timing belt. Great job! Oh and I had to do the breaker bar and bump the starter a few times to get crank bolt loose. It was laughing at me.
Wow, you make it look so easy that even I could do it,,, (or not,) I wonder how much a job like this would be nowadays? I have the exact same car. Great video and my respect to you.
What an excellently made video. Thank you for this. Good to know it can be done without needing a lift for the car, or worse, removing the engine. Still contemplating whether I can do this myself, especially without the crank bolt tool
Makes me wonder why honda put timing belts for soooo long on the V6's instead of timing chains like Toyota, cant think of any reasons. Hopefully the new ones have timing chains this is soooo much of a hassle lol. Great video though best of UA-cam💯💯💯
Thanks for your comment and support! Timing belts have less centrifugal mass than a timing chain setup and therefore robs less horse power. From a maintenance perspective, timing chains do not require replacement unless the chain stretches (caused by not changing the oil as outlined by the manufacturer or the crankcase oil level dropped and oil wasn't added). A stretched timing chain replacement job is around 3X the cost of a typical timing belt replacement (both parts and labor).
I did have most of the tools already, the trick with marking the existing timing belt with an ink pen and taking a picture before removing the tensioner, then matching it carefully with the new belt, was wonderful! That crank pulley bolt is no joke, fighting that crank bolt can stop your progress in a hurry. I tried to get it off with a 18v snap on impact and it couldn't even budge it, I also have milwaukee tools so I ran out and I bought the new milwaukee m18 fuel impact and that took the bolt off with ease. I also bought a concrete mixing pan to catch the coolant from the block when you take off the pump housing. I did it on jack stands in the garage just fine. I would say it probably took me 8-10hrs doing the thermostat as well, but I wasn't rushing and started Friday night and worked on and off over the weekend
Thanks for the great and to the point video. Your tips on marking the belt was great. I am glad I marked it as you have shown. Old stretched belt didn’t exactly match and without the marks it would have been possible to install the new belt one tooth off on the heads.
Thanks for the Post and i have not seen such an wonderful ways of explaining things to users and this will really help the others globally with confidence
@@hardlymovingpro Thank again and i need your suggestion. I do have a 2002 Acura TL type s with 183000 Miles on it , For a full tank i get close to 220 miles and have replaced the spark plugs , still the same . Timing Belt change will improve the Gas mileage ? just an ask .
@@chenthilkumar9724 If there was a slight belt stretch with the old belt, with a new belt the engine should run better since the camshafts and crankshaft will be in perfect alignment.
Great video, about the only thing I don’t agree with is using the old tensioner itself. We have several Honda/Acura vehicles with the J-series engine. & once the tensioner gets old, it starts to rattle & loses its ability to keep the timing-belt tight.
@@hardlymovingpro indeed, we have several Honda/Acura vehicles with the J-Series V6 engine. The timing-belts in all of them were fine, but the tensioner in every one were rattling like crazy (think of engine knock noise)!
@@hardlymovingpro So you would not recommend replacing the cam seals and crank seal while doing this? I have a 2005 Acura, 158k miles, that I do not believe the 105k mile maintanence was done (the timing belt and water pump specifically). No visible indications of leaks from these seals, but I am wondering if it might be worth it to do them while I have everything apart already. Great video though, got the subscribe from me and I'll follow your links since I still need to purchase that Lisle 19mm socket. That spill-free funnel looks great, too, probably going to add that to the tool box as well.
@@hardlymovingpro Okay, great, thanks. I'll inspect the area thoroughly for leaks but leave them alone if I see none. I wasn't sure if replacing them may be good preventative maintenance or not. I picked up the Lisle 19mm socket and funnel using your affiliate links, so hopefully that worked on your end. Thanks again for the great video!
@@hardlymovingpro Thanks for the great video btw. I did my 05 TL, an 09 MDX, and a 2011 Odyssey, thanks to you. The Lisle tools worked perfectly. Doing the work allowed me to diagnose two power steering pumps with leaking rear seals and get those flushed and replaced, too.
awesome tutorial. Just the important words and not the useless chit chat and rants like the other tutorials. This is how tutorial should be made! One favor i need is:What impact wrench did you use? How much Ft.Lbs? Thanks
Thanks for your comment! The impact tool to remove the crankshaft pulley bolt is a Milwaukee M18 Fuel 1/2" and it generates around 1,400 lbs of torque. Used with a high mass 19 mm impact socket, taking off the harmonic balancer pulley bolt is easy. If you want more details, let me know.
Great video, thank you for posting! The only thing I would change is to say right up front not to start this job unless you have the Lisle 77080 socket! I could not get the crank bolt undone with a standard impact socket and had to wait a day to get the Lisle. Then it came off in about 5 seconds!
Most excellent video! But the only thing that bothers me is allowing coolant from water pump just pour over the crank sensor,, mine seems due an 06 TL runs smooth and powerful but it has clatter on cold starts below 70°f then goes away when motor is warmed up, I'm looking to have it changed soon,, Perfect Video!
Hands down one of the best vids I’ve came across on UA-cam. Great job! Question: If I’m changing only the tensioner do I still have to remove the crank bolt?
Great Video! I need some advice about a problem that I have yet to see on any UA-cam videos. I'm working with a 2003 Acura MDX and started by following the shop manual instructions. I completed the project; and hand rotated the belt 5-6 times as stated in the manual. The timing marks all lined up but the belt had walked from the center of the camshaft sprockets to the engine side of the sprockets. I decided to put everything back together and see how it ran and if possibly it would migrate back to the center of the sprockets. It started and ran fine for approximately 10 minutes, but once it was warmed up I could hear some knocking. I took everything apart and the belt was still against the engine side of the sprockets and a small amount of grey powder was visible. So the timing belt is rubbing. I've tried flipping the belt and adjusting the torque on the tensioner pulley. Each time after I take the belt off, reposition it in the center of the sprockets and rotate the crankshaft pulley 5-6 times it has moved against the engine side of the sprockets. I reviewed TSB 08-03. That supposedly doesn't apply to a 2003 MDX, and the shim that they recommend installing would seem to move the belt towards the engine to keep it away from the engine mount housing. Anyways, long story short, I'm stumped...any ideas??
Only way a belt can move out of center is from a out-if-center tensioner, guide or water pump pulley bearing IMHO. Don't understand how you adjusted the tensioner. It's auto adjusting. Also don't know the brand of the belt kit you bought. Knocking noise after 10 min run? Has to be one of the bearings.
@@hardlymovingpro Thanks for the quick response. The Timing Belt kit was a genuine Honda kit. As far as the torque on the tensioner pulley; someone online mentioned that it's possible to overtighten the pulley bolt and cause the belt to offtrack.. I loosened and then retightened to 19lb/ft as the manual stated. But I guess it is possible that the pulley bearing was affected by running for 10 minutes before that under high torque. I've found the shim for the idler pulley locally and I'm going to pick one up tomorrow and see if that makes a difference. Possibly I could flip it around and have the thick edge on the right side. Some of the timing belt kits that I've seen for sale include the shim, even for the 2003. I'll keep you posted...
Problem Solved! I purchased a timing belt component kit which included an idler pulley & bolt, tensioner pulley and metal shim. When I compared the previously installed, new Honda tensioner pulley with the newly purchased Dayco one it was fairly obvious that the Honda pulley wasn't evenly aligned from left to right. It was off by a millimeter+. Perhaps it was dropped at the factory or??? It came out of new packaging. I put everything back together with the new components and the off tracking issue hasn't reoccurred. This would be a good reason to turn the belt 5-6 times to not only check the timing marks but ensure that the belt isn't wandering. Thanks again for the informative video and prompt advice.
i did this to my car . thanks ! i also started it and it sounded great . normal. ran it for like 8 mnts and then when i tried turning it back on it seems like it's misfiring
@@hardlymovingpro taking car to the mech now I called ahead to see if parts were available i know its the tensioner rest of stuff is only had 50k on it what do u recommend swap whole timing belt kit out and or just tensioner?? I'm on budget
@@ilovenythismuchilovenewyor5801 The kit comes with a 4 components: Belt, Idle Pulley, Tensioner Pulley and Tensioner. I'd recommend you replace the just the belt with the tensioner. The pulleys usually last a long time ... around 150K miles or more.
@@hardlymovingpro let me see wth the mechanic says 2m and make a choice hopefully he's a fair and honest guy seems like a real nice old man but hopefully his work and honesty and price all good too
As usual a very concise video. I would advise viewers to be sure to break torque on the crank bolt before doing anything else. Where can I find that angled drill??
Great video! After the timing belt is installed, would you recommend manually turning over the engine by hand at least a few revolutions to make sure the timing marks stay aligned and there is no piston to valve contact? Is this even do-able? Thanks!
No ... not necessary. Even if you did, turning the engine manually one full revolution will not bring the belt alignment marks to where they were set. This is what happens with twin cam V6 engines.
Great video! Just picked up an 07 type S and it recently started making a rattling sound on really cold mornings (30 degrees or less) but goes away when warning up. Dug around and apparently the hydraulic tensioners in these cars go bad causing the belt to flap around. Unsure if/when belt, pump, and tensioner were done so thinking of doing it myself just to be safe. How do you keep the crank pulley from moving without impact tools? And how did you know where to mark the belt before installing? Thanks again!
Congrats on your type S purchase. If not sure when was the last time the belt was replaced, play it safe and have new parts installed with good parts you're comfortable with. Never know the quality of the previous replacement parts. The tools needed to remove the crank pulley without impact tools (like a crank pulley holder and a super longer breaker bar) isn't worth it. You can get yourself a cheap AC electric plug in tool for around $50 now and use that with the high mass impact socket. Paint marks were based off of the camshaft and crankshaft top-dead-center timing alignment marks. It's all in the video.
Wow, well done my friend! Not sure who took the video but you captured each step very well and just what I was looking for. I'm looking to purchase the same model/yr for my teenage son with 89k miles from a dealer and I doubt the previous owner had it replaced so I can use it as a bargaining chip. It's the more rarer 6spd manual too, which according to Acura forums, are more reliable. Any chance you have a video on how to change out the clutch? Thanks brother!
Haven't had a failed or worn-out tensioner situation on a V6 Honda to date. Did have a failed tensioner on a Mitsubishi V6. The strength of a tensioner can be tested in a vise.
@@hardlymovingpro still should have replaced it. That is what fails on these cars, not the belt itself. Maybe you will get lucky and it won't fail for another 100k miles. Either way its s big risk not replacing it
@@hardlymovingpro but the tensioner is cheap. Even if it wasnt, it is definitely cheaper than a new engine if it were to fail. So at that point while you are in there you might as well just do everything. You are right, the idler can fail. The hydrallic tensioner definitely could. It wears out and starts leaking oil. Idk man you do you, but I want piece of mind that everything was done and there is no chance of a failure
You make valid points but find out for yourself. Call up some dealers and independent repair shops for a timing belt / water pump replacement quote. After you get their quote, ask them if it includes a new tensioner.
I have the same exact vehicle as this. Mine has 178,000 miles on it and hasn't ever had the timing belt replaced. One day while WOT Accelerating out of a turn, the engine started to misfire noticeably. I pulled the codes, and it is misfiring on all 6 cylinders. I've checked the usual ignition components and haven't found any issues. This leads me to believe that the timing belt is likely the issue. The question I have, is when I go to put on the new timing belt, how do I appropriately line up the new belt as you've done with the old functioning one? I can get the motor to tdc and line up the cam pully and all, but how can I be certain that the belt is lined up?
I am going to guess that you're misfire problem is related to a jumped timing belt. Assuming this is true, the thing to do is to align your crankshaft to top dead center first. Then check the position of your camshafts. So if your timing belt jumped I would assume 1 camshaft would be in alignment with the timing mark while the other camshaft would not. You simply need to remove the timing belt Andre position that camshaft that is out of alignment to the top dead center mark.
Also, since you can’t used belt paint marks for the belt alignment, you have to check the belt tension between the cam and crank sprockets. That is, if there is to much belt slack between the crank and cam, your out of alignment. You can move the crank one cog to the left to mount the belt, then position it back to remove the slack. The same logic can be used for the two cams.
Hardly Moving Productions thank you do much for your response. I'll get started now. I have the same kit as in your description. Thank you very much. Subbed
Thanks for you comment. Been doing this for so many years, don't use torque wrench that much. More important to spread torque evenly, clean contact surfaces and using quality parts. Though I do use toque specs. for head bolts doing head gasket replacements.
Hats off to you sir. This format of instructional video is perfect. No blabbering bs constantly. Very clear and quick. I normally speed up automotive videos and skip forward but not once did i have to do this with your video. Thankyou
Thanks for the post! Glad you found it useful and informative. We try stay on point with our videos.
To support our channel, give us a thumbs up and to get notifications of new videos, please subscribe.
Awesome and showed reassembly. Most just tell you to put it back reverse of how you took it apart. I may attempt this myself. The marks on the belt is a very nice trick of the trade! as that is my biggest concern. I'm doing this on a 1999 model which actually has a little more room to work.
Thanks! I've had guys post that paint marks aren't necessary.
@@hardlymovingpro ít hight Technic and ưell done
@@hardlymovingpro love the simplicity of your tutorials. People tend to leave cameras pointing at ceilings lol. What brand power steering pump was that. My type s look deferent. Maybe after market. What water pump you used. I gotta check if I’m running oem. Car engine is fine but the belt,pullies fans all soon harshly loud.
Just finished my first water pump/timing belt on a 2000 Base TL. Although there are a few slight differences ( the 2000 is 2nd generation, '04 TL is 3rd. Small details like 2 drive belts instead of one, no bolt on "keeper" around crankshaft timing cog, etc.)
There's no way I could have done this without this video. I probably watched it 25 times total, starting and starting it countless times. I cannot tell you how good I feel right now, accomplishing such a daunting task, all the while standing on the shoulders of the genius who made this video.
Thank you sir. You should consider teaching a shop class for kids. I can see you changing young lives like you have mine.
Hey that's great news! Performing a timing belt and water pump replacement is a big accomplishment for someone who's never done it before. Also, think of all the money saved if you had the dealer do it.
To support this channel and to get updates on new videos, please subscribe.
Torque specifications are very important. Furthermore, you should always ensure the timing belt is installed correctly by rotating the engine with a breaker bar twice. if your marks still line up after those two revolutions then finish putting it back together. if not then your still out of time even if it is only a single tooth this will cause damage to the engine if you dont ensure its lined up Correctly. Other than these two things you did an outstanding job. Master tech here. 35 years exp.
Thanks for your post! I use paint marks and transfer them to the new belt to avoid wasting time with the "two revolution" technique after belt installation. If there's no belt slack between the cams and cranks, you're in alignment; however, engines that do not have have a self adjusting pulley tensioner (mostly the 4 cylinder engines) do require rotation to allow the belt to seat. But instead of rotating the engine, I start the engine which I found to better seat the belt.
On my channel I film my mechanical repairs. I'm getting ready to install a water pump on this same car. I searched youtube to see if anyone else has made any good videos? Sometimes I'll find either no videos or really bad videos that helps me decide if I should take the time to make a video. In this case there is no reason for me to upload a video. You did an excellent job on your video that I would just be wasting my time. Great job!
Thanks for your comment and glad you found the TB video useful. Good luck with the repair!
Thank you! I didn't even notice that 15 minutes had elapsed and the tutorial video was over. This is the first youtube vid I did not skip ahead or have to go back and watch again, or check to see how much more time there was. Your video was spot on, easy to follow, hear clearly and understand. No time for the mind to wander. hahahaha. After watching, I can definitely do this with full confidence. I have all the tools to do the job too and know my bolt sizes too. BTW, I bet it took you longer to edit and master this tutorial video than it did actually doing the job. You Rock. Cheers!
Thanks for your comments! Your right ... it does take a long time to make these videos. This 15 minute one over one day (1 day based on 8 hr).
This is a high quality video. The content is very detailed. The camera angles give you a great view of the work being done and the lighting really allows you to see the parts that he is describing. Very helpful!!!
Thanks for your critique!
This video deserves way more likes. No bs just straight to the point. The quality and simplicity are beyond 👌
Thanks for your support!
There's a few things I would have done differently but that's because I'm picky. With that said, I think this is a perfect example of a how to video. No BS, no ridiculously drawn out intro. You did a fine job sir thank you for the video.
Thanks for your comment and support! If I were to do a timing belt job on this engine a few months from now, I'm sure I'd do something different or slightly out of order.
Been debating on buying or not buying a TL because I would have to change the timing belt right after purchasing it... This video has made me more confident that I could do the service myself. Great video!!!!!!!!
Glad you found the video useful and good luck with the service!
My coworker who's been working on cars for 30 years told me about the paint marker tip. My first one is tomorrow on one of these. Great video.
Thanks and good luck with the repair.
Additionally:
Draining the coolant: There is a nice and fairly easy to access drain plug to drain the coolant out the engine block and water pump. It is located on the back of the engine in front of the steering tie rod link. You can see it from inside the front right wheel well. Drain the coolant before taking the water pump off so that most of the coolant is gone
Knocking noise!!!! If changing the timing belt because of a knocking noise then make sure you get a timing belt kit with the shim that needs to be installed also on the timing belt idle pulley. If not, the noise may come back down the road (Apparently Acura says its the timing belt slapping on the engine mount) TSB 08-031
Good to know. Thanks!
Thanks for this info. I've used it on three J series honda V6 now. Saves a ton of mess!
Hey ... glad it worked out for you!
Just successfully did the timing belt, bearings, and water pump on my 2002 Honda Accord V6! I would never have felt remotely confident enough to try it, had I not found this amazing video first! I had a few issues: the harmonic balancer bolt was dead-locked. I was even prepared with the exact high-mass impact socket attached to my heavy duty 1/2" impact...and it wouldn't budge at all. I eventually had to employ the bump start method to get it off. Highly stressful, but it worked on the 2nd try! The other issue I had was that my tensioner was a different design from the one you re-used in the video. Instead of a pin, mine comes with this ridiculous "clip" over the ends, compressing the whole thing together. But the spot where it goes was so tight, as soon as I got it down there it came off. At that point I thought I was totally screwed. After over an hour working on it, a buddy of mine comes over and we discover(using the old tensioner) that you can not use a vise to get it compressed again. You have to remove the nut on the back end and use a flat head screw driver to back up the tensioner to get the clip on. I then zip tied the clip on and after a long struggle I was finally able to get it bolted down. I had to thread in the top bolt on the tensioner and then use every bit of strength I had in me to push the tensioner bearing up so that I could force the tensioner in place and thread in the lower bolt...it was definitely the toughest part of the whole job! I also replaced the 2 other drive belts. I've never done a job this complicated and having your video in the garage with me was a life saver. After all parts were in and engine was ready, she started up on a dime and I took a 20 minute drive on freeway. THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR MAKING THESE INCREDIBLE VIDEOS!!! THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR MAKING THIS VIDEO SIR!!! I wish you sooooooo much health, happiness, and abundance. Please reply if anyone reading this has any questions for me about my specific vehicle or whatever, I will check periodically. Oh, and I'm now a faithful subscriber. Mazel Tov, it's a boy!
Good story and glad it all worked out for you! You saved over $1,000 if you had let the dealer do it! Surprised the bump stop method worked for you. I began using the high mass socket when the bump stop didn't work for me anymore. If you remove all the timing belt slack to the left and right of the tensioner pulley, you shouldn't have had any problem bolting on the tensioner. That would mean moving the rear cam counter clockwise and the lower crank clockwise.
@@hardlymovingpro The shop wanted $1500 and I only paid $400! So over 1k! I knew it had to be a slack issue but couldn't really figure out what to do in the moment. Thankfully I was able to force it in; but thank you, I'll remember that next time. And yeah, I was totally expecting the high mass socket to work, but it failed hard. Thank G-D the bump start did work, cuz I don't know what I would have done if it hadn't. So you can move the cams and crankshaft separately and in different directions independent of each other? I would not have thought to do that.
This is the best video on a timing belt job on UA-cam. Hands 🤚🏻 down!
Thanks for your comment 👍. Check out our other handy DIY videos!
Great video! This is how a video on how to do it be. Cut the BS and straight for it with details! Once again nice job
Thanks for your kind comment! Really do appreciate it.
FANTASTIC video - best I've seen in a long time. Quick, clear, fast forwarded exactly when needed and freeze-frame with arrows when needed. PERFECT. Can't wait to get cracking on my new-to-me 04 TL!
Thanks for your post and good luck with the tb job!
@@hardlymovingpro So I'm into it today and so far so good, but now I'm trying to line up cams and I have no yellow marks...what do the marks look like otherwise if there's no yellow paint to go by?
Another question: With your method of making (blue) marks and transferring to the new belt, why do I even need to find TDC? The car is currently properly timed; I just need to leave everything as it is, mark the cams and crank (and belt), transfer marks and replace, right? Why would it matter where the engine is in its cycle (TDC vs. wherever it randomly stopped when I turned it off) as long as I don't move anything and just replace the belt in the same spot?
Kudos to ya sir. Great great video. None of the blabbing about stuff that's not important. Straight and to the point. First DOHC I've ever done and thanks to you it worked perfect. Can't say thank you enough for this FANTASTIC video
Thanks for sharing and glad it worked out for you!
Thank you for the instructional video. I am not mechanic, but, this enhances my appreciation for those with the mechanical skill and aptitude to handle this installation.
Appreciate your post on our work!
I LOVE this channel. So no judgements just you dont need to disconnect the hoses for power steering pump. Just remove mounting bolts then move whole pump, with hoses attached, ontop of upper intake. Removing the 10mm hose clamp on back cylinder head also helps get more play in high pressure hose. Just to save someone somewhere some time.
Good to know and thanks for sharing!
Thank you, i did my 04 accord, and i followed all ur instructions and it works out very well thank you. I noticed to remove the camshaft bolt was like going to war witbout a powerful gun. Always make sure your gun have more than 700lb pressure to remove it easily.
Thanks for sharing your experience and advice!
Really well put together video! As someone who isn’t a mechanic, this looks difficult, but not too far of a stretch to try and do myself.
Thanks!
If I could give this video 100 million likes I would very informative
Thanks for your feedback!
Possibly the best automotive how to vid I've ever watched. Thanks for all the info and tricks.
Thanks and you bet!
I love that he shows how to put it back together too. That’s always the issues with people taking these videos
Yup ... putting it back together could be confusing for some.
Nice work man. You make it look easy . Received all my OEM water pump kit and misc stuff to do this job today on my wife’s car. So glad I found your video.
Thanks for your post and good luck with the belt replacement!
Seriously great straight forward video made a hard job look very easy just time consuming but this is a life saver I've prolly got to do this soon
Glad you liked it!
Thank you so much for this informative video. I am just finishing up. You made the job easy (except for the harmonic balancer bolt, what a pain)
Glad it was helpful!
How long did it take you?
Just did this on wifes Honda pilot and I learned a couple new course words doing the timing belt. Great job! Oh and I had to do the breaker bar and bump the starter a few times to get crank bolt loose. It was laughing at me.
You're lucky you got it off. Use to do the bump start method till my luck ran out one day.
I’m a BMW guy and I just bought one of these cars 05. And I have to change the water pump great video dude thank you.And I subscribed
When everything is working, the Accord / TL is a nice ride. Much easier to fix than a BMW and parts are easy to find. Good luck with owning it.
Wow, you make it look so easy that even I could do it,,, (or not,) I wonder how much a job like this would be nowadays? I have the exact same car. Great video and my respect to you.
Thanks! Based on inflation, around $1,200 +
What an excellently made video. Thank you for this. Good to know it can be done without needing a lift for the car, or worse, removing the engine.
Still contemplating whether I can do this myself, especially without the crank bolt tool
If you can get the pulley bolt off, the rest is gravy!
Soy mexicano y esta muy bien explicate tu video Paso por paso, gracias por compartir tus conocimientos con la gente,bendiciones gracias
Gracias y agradezco tu comentario!
Makes me wonder why honda put timing belts for soooo long on the V6's instead of timing chains like Toyota, cant think of any reasons. Hopefully the new ones have timing chains this is soooo much of a hassle lol. Great video though best of UA-cam💯💯💯
Thanks for your comment and support! Timing belts have less centrifugal mass than a timing chain setup and therefore robs less horse power. From a maintenance perspective, timing chains do not require replacement unless the chain stretches (caused by not changing the oil as outlined by the manufacturer or the crankcase oil level dropped and oil wasn't added). A stretched timing chain replacement job is around 3X the cost of a typical timing belt replacement (both parts and labor).
Man, your skills and details go above and beyond, may the God of Abraham,Isaac and Jacob keep you safe and bless you.
I appreciate that! And blessed be the automakers who build affordable, reliable and quality cars for those in need.
Great video. We just completed the same job with you successful as rookies. Very helpful.
Glad it helped and thanks for sharing!
Just completed this job with your guidance, thanks so much! Awesome video!
Glad it helped!
How long did it take? Did you get all of the tools on the list or did you improvise?
I did have most of the tools already, the trick with marking the existing timing belt with an ink pen and taking a picture before removing the tensioner, then matching it carefully with the new belt, was wonderful! That crank pulley bolt is no joke, fighting that crank bolt can stop your progress in a hurry. I tried to get it off with a 18v snap on impact and it couldn't even budge it, I also have milwaukee tools so I ran out and I bought the new milwaukee m18 fuel impact and that took the bolt off with ease. I also bought a concrete mixing pan to catch the coolant from the block when you take off the pump housing. I did it on jack stands in the garage just fine. I would say it probably took me 8-10hrs doing the thermostat as well, but I wasn't rushing and started Friday night and worked on and off over the weekend
Very well explained... Looks complicated but doable...
Thanks for the great and to the point video. Your tips on marking the belt was great. I am glad I marked it as you have shown. Old stretched belt didn’t exactly match and without the marks it would have been possible to install the new belt one tooth off on the heads.
Thanks for watching!
Best video ever , very well done and easy to follow .
Glad you liked it! Thanks for your comment and support! Have any questions, ask anytime.
Great video and stellar skill. Love the goodntight torque specs, a true master has the feel for it!
Thanks! You're right about the torque specs I keep getting comments (hounded) on!
Thanks for the Post and i have not seen such an wonderful ways of explaining things to users and this will really help the others globally with confidence
Thanks for your kind critique of our videos and yes, we do wish to help those with tight budgets repair their own vehicles.
@@hardlymovingpro Thank again and i need your suggestion. I do have a 2002 Acura TL type s with 183000 Miles on it , For a full tank i get close to 220 miles and have replaced the spark plugs , still the same . Timing Belt change will improve the Gas mileage ? just an ask .
@@chenthilkumar9724 If there was a slight belt stretch with the old belt, with a new belt the engine should run better since the camshafts and crankshaft will be in perfect alignment.
I really like the idea of the paint marks on the belt, great video.
If you're a rookie with timing belt jobs, it does make the job worry free; that is, did I line everything up correctly?
Great video, about the only thing I don’t agree with is using the old tensioner itself.
We have several Honda/Acura vehicles with the J-series engine. & once the tensioner gets old, it starts to rattle & loses its ability to keep the timing-belt tight.
Thanks for your post. Good to know about the tensioner. Don't seem to have that problem with Toyota's.
@@hardlymovingpro indeed, we have several Honda/Acura vehicles with the J-Series V6 engine. The timing-belts in all of them were fine, but the tensioner in every one were rattling like crazy (think of engine knock noise)!
This makes the timing belt job on my v6 Toyota look like a breeze. Nice work:)
Thanks for your support. The only thing really different is that the cam and crank seals on the Honda's last longer and don't need replacement.
@@hardlymovingpro So you would not recommend replacing the cam seals and crank seal while doing this? I have a 2005 Acura, 158k miles, that I do not believe the 105k mile maintanence was done (the timing belt and water pump specifically). No visible indications of leaks from these seals, but I am wondering if it might be worth it to do them while I have everything apart already.
Great video though, got the subscribe from me and I'll follow your links since I still need to purchase that Lisle 19mm socket. That spill-free funnel looks great, too, probably going to add that to the tool box as well.
@@brassmule I can't come up with any rationale reason why but Honda cam and crank seals last longer than Toyota ... never seen one leak.
@@hardlymovingpro Okay, great, thanks. I'll inspect the area thoroughly for leaks but leave them alone if I see none. I wasn't sure if replacing them may be good preventative maintenance or not. I picked up the Lisle 19mm socket and funnel using your affiliate links, so hopefully that worked on your end. Thanks again for the great video!
@@hardlymovingpro Thanks for the great video btw. I did my 05 TL, an 09 MDX, and a 2011 Odyssey, thanks to you. The Lisle tools worked perfectly. Doing the work allowed me to diagnose two power steering pumps with leaking rear seals and get those flushed and replaced, too.
best video ever!!! my hat off to this gentleman.
Thanks!
awesome tutorial. Just the important words and not the useless chit chat and rants like the other tutorials. This is how tutorial should be made!
One favor i need is:What impact wrench did you use? How much Ft.Lbs? Thanks
Thanks for your comment! The impact tool to remove the crankshaft pulley bolt is a Milwaukee M18 Fuel 1/2" and it generates around 1,400 lbs of torque. Used with a high mass 19 mm impact socket, taking off the harmonic balancer pulley bolt is easy. If you want more details, let me know.
Just in the point, you apreciate our time, I'll apreciate your explanation.
Thanks for your comment and support!
Very well explained, started up smooth like butter. 👍👍👍
Thanks ... glad you liked it.
Great video, thank you for posting! The only thing I would change is to say right up front not to start this job unless you have the Lisle 77080 socket! I could not get the crank bolt undone with a standard impact socket and had to wait a day to get the Lisle. Then it came off in about 5 seconds!
Thanks for sharing your experience with the lisle socket. It's a great 🔧 tool!
I'm doing this Job in my 05 tl now, annoying, but it's manageable with well explained video like this, thank you sir 👍🏾🔥
Good luck!
@@hardlymovingpro Thank you 🔥🔥
Pretty straight foreword video. Right on bro 🙌
Thanks ... appreciate your post!
Most excellent video! But the only thing that bothers me is allowing coolant from water pump just pour over the crank sensor,, mine seems due an 06 TL runs smooth and powerful but it has clatter on cold starts below 70°f then goes away when motor is warmed up, I'm looking to have it changed soon,, Perfect Video!
Thanks! You can blow the sensor dry with compressed air if you want.
Hey thanks! I came to learn so I don't make a mistake and bend valves!
Glad I could help!
Hands down one of the best vids I’ve came across on UA-cam. Great job! Question: If I’m changing only the tensioner do I still have to remove the crank bolt?
Thanks ... And glad you found it useful! Accessory belt or timing belt tensioner?
This guy is a great mechanic
Thanks!
Great Video! I need some advice about a problem that I have yet to see on any UA-cam videos. I'm working with a 2003 Acura MDX and started by following the shop manual instructions. I completed the project; and hand rotated the belt 5-6 times as stated in the manual. The timing marks all lined up but the belt had walked from the center of the camshaft sprockets to the engine side of the sprockets. I decided to put everything back together and see how it ran and if possibly it would migrate back to the center of the sprockets. It started and ran fine for approximately 10 minutes, but once it was warmed up I could hear some knocking. I took everything apart and the belt was still against the engine side of the sprockets and a small amount of grey powder was visible. So the timing belt is rubbing. I've tried flipping the belt and adjusting the torque on the tensioner pulley. Each time after I take the belt off, reposition it in the center of the sprockets and rotate the crankshaft pulley 5-6 times it has moved against the engine side of the sprockets. I reviewed TSB 08-03. That supposedly doesn't apply to a 2003 MDX, and the shim that they recommend installing would seem to move the belt towards the engine to keep it away from the engine mount housing. Anyways, long story short, I'm stumped...any ideas??
Only way a belt can move out of center is from a out-if-center tensioner, guide or water pump pulley bearing IMHO. Don't understand how you adjusted the tensioner. It's auto adjusting. Also don't know the brand of the belt kit you bought. Knocking noise after 10 min run? Has to be one of the bearings.
@@hardlymovingpro Thanks for the quick response. The Timing Belt kit was a genuine Honda kit. As far as the torque on the tensioner pulley; someone online mentioned that it's possible to overtighten the pulley bolt and cause the belt to offtrack.. I loosened and then retightened to 19lb/ft as the manual stated. But I guess it is possible that the pulley bearing was affected by running for 10 minutes before that under high torque. I've found the shim for the idler pulley locally and I'm going to pick one up tomorrow and see if that makes a difference. Possibly I could flip it around and have the thick edge on the right side. Some of the timing belt kits that I've seen for sale include the shim, even for the 2003. I'll keep you posted...
Problem Solved! I purchased a timing belt component kit which included an idler pulley & bolt, tensioner pulley and metal shim. When I compared the previously installed, new Honda tensioner pulley with the newly purchased Dayco one it was fairly obvious that the Honda pulley wasn't evenly aligned from left to right. It was off by a millimeter+. Perhaps it was dropped at the factory or??? It came out of new packaging. I put everything back together with the new components and the off tracking issue hasn't reoccurred. This would be a good reason to turn the belt 5-6 times to not only check the timing marks but ensure that the belt isn't wandering. Thanks again for the informative video and prompt advice.
Awesome vide good knowledge, filmed well, straight to the point. Thx
Thanks!
Did mines today thank you for your video I'm a do it yourself person
Good job and congratulations! Now move on to the front suspension struts, ball joints and control arms. The car will drive like new!
Thanks for the video. Saved me $800
Good for you!
Incredible video awesome breakdown and illustration of doing this job. Great work 👍👍👍👍
Thanks! Glad you liked it!
Great video, no BS just straight to work.
Thanks!
i did this to my car . thanks ! i also started it and it sounded great . normal. ran it for like 8 mnts and then when i tried turning it back on it seems like it's misfiring
8 minutes or months?
nice n simple explanation great job just wish I had a bigger garage and tools to work on my own car
Thanks!
@@hardlymovingpro taking car to the mech now I called ahead to see if parts were available i know its the tensioner rest of stuff is only had 50k on it what do u recommend swap whole timing belt kit out and or just tensioner?? I'm on budget
@@ilovenythismuchilovenewyor5801 The kit comes with a 4 components: Belt, Idle Pulley, Tensioner Pulley and Tensioner. I'd recommend you replace the just the belt with the tensioner. The pulleys usually last a long time ... around 150K miles or more.
@@hardlymovingpro let me see wth the mechanic says 2m and make a choice hopefully he's a fair and honest guy seems like a real nice old man but hopefully his work and honesty and price all good too
Great instructions...doing this next week ...thanks
Good luck!
Camera man did an awesome job too.
Thanks ... would not have been able to publish these quality videos without him!
Your video and instructions are perfect. It's like " timing belt for dummies".
@@lawrenceescoriaza4122 Thanks ... We like to keep it simple to understand!
As usual a very concise video.
I would advise viewers to be sure to break torque on the crank bolt before doing anything else.
Where can I find that angled drill??
Thanks for your post! The link to the drill: amzn.to/3krvexb
Great video! After the timing belt is installed, would you recommend manually turning over the engine by hand at least a few revolutions to make sure the timing marks stay aligned and there is no piston to valve contact? Is this even do-able? Thanks!
No ... not necessary. Even if you did, turning the engine manually one full revolution will not bring the belt alignment marks to where they were set. This is what happens with twin cam V6 engines.
Fantastic video sir..no BS just strait to work. thank you
Glad you liked it and thanks for your support and post!
Well explained, good camera angle.
Thanks for your comment and support!
Thank you for posting. Im looking at a 2006 TL that im not sure if timing job has been done so i will likely be doing this in the near future.
You bet!
Hey man, the way you explained, is great thanks.
You're welcome!
Very nice video! Makes me wanna go back in time before I had the shop do it lol
Thanks! I do all my videos outside in the sunlight.
Wow what nice work, auto mechanic,, Happy watching I got learning
Thanks for your post and appreciate your comment!
Sir you made that look so easy. Damn good job
Thanks! Not that difficult of a job.
Great video! Just picked up an 07 type S and it recently started making a rattling sound on really cold mornings (30 degrees or less) but goes away when warning up. Dug around and apparently the hydraulic tensioners in these cars go bad causing the belt to flap around. Unsure if/when belt, pump, and tensioner were done so thinking of doing it myself just to be safe. How do you keep the crank pulley from moving without impact tools? And how did you know where to mark the belt before installing? Thanks again!
Congrats on your type S purchase. If not sure when was the last time the belt was replaced, play it safe and have new parts installed with good parts you're comfortable with. Never know the quality of the previous replacement parts. The tools needed to remove the crank pulley without impact tools (like a crank pulley holder and a super longer breaker bar) isn't worth it. You can get yourself a cheap AC electric plug in tool for around $50 now and use that with the high mass impact socket. Paint marks were based off of the camshaft and crankshaft top-dead-center timing alignment marks. It's all in the video.
You are a true definition 🥂💯🤝
Thanks!
Wow, well done my friend! Not sure who took the video but you captured each step very well and just what I was looking for. I'm looking to purchase the same model/yr for my teenage son with 89k miles from a dealer and I doubt the previous owner had it replaced so I can use it as a bargaining chip. It's the more rarer 6spd manual too, which according to Acura forums, are more reliable. Any chance you have a video on how to change out the clutch? Thanks brother!
Thanks! No video yet on replacing the clutch.
Very informative video. However, it would be nice if you would give the honda parts numbers for the parts used in this job.
Sorry. This is a free to the public how-to video. Also, all repair manuals like Haynes and Chilton do not provide OEM part numbers.
Great video has always, you are a great mechanic.
Thanks!
U make it easy bud.
Excellent video
So about a 15 min job ? Great video , I’ll be doing this tomorrow
Easier than reading a repair manual!
Pending on how many times you get pulled off, my best time is 45ish minutes
Beautiful video Sr. !!! Nice job
Thanks!
Need to buy those Milwaukee’s 😏
Makes the job go faster and easier ... doesn't it?
Hardly Moving Productions
True that !!
And thank you for the video 👍
No problem!
What's the tool named?
very good job
Thanks!
Extremely well put together video!
Thanks! Appreciate your comment!
This was a great how to video str8 to the point
Thanks for the comment!
Great job 😊
Glad you liked it!
Hello sir nice job , how often is recommended to change the timig and water pump? Thank you sir.
Just click on the "SHOW MORE" below this video's description to get that info.
7 years or 105k miles
What a huge job. I've got a coolant leak in that area... hoping it's not the water pump
If the pump bearing is shot, there will be leaks.
GOOD TEACHING THANKYOU ❤
You bet! Glad it was helpful.
Great video 👍
Thanks 👍
Great informative video! Thank you for posting.
I have a quick question do you need any tools to lock the cams in place?
Not on the Honda V6.
@@hardlymovingpro yes I agree! I was reading you don’t need them I wanted to make sure thanks again!
Great job!!!!! But Why leave same tensioner in?????
Haven't had a failed or worn-out tensioner situation on a V6 Honda to date. Did have a failed tensioner on a Mitsubishi V6. The strength of a tensioner can be tested in a vise.
@@hardlymovingpro still should have replaced it. That is what fails on these cars, not the belt itself. Maybe you will get lucky and it won't fail for another 100k miles. Either way its s big risk not replacing it
From my observations of all the belt jobs I've done, it's the idler, tensioner and water pump bearings that wear out and fail.
@@hardlymovingpro but the tensioner is cheap. Even if it wasnt, it is definitely cheaper than a new engine if it were to fail. So at that point while you are in there you might as well just do everything. You are right, the idler can fail. The hydrallic tensioner definitely could. It wears out and starts leaking oil. Idk man you do you, but I want piece of mind that everything was done and there is no chance of a failure
You make valid points but find out for yourself. Call up some dealers and independent repair shops for a timing belt / water pump replacement quote. After you get their quote, ask them if it includes a new tensioner.
Looked pretty tight in my engine bay but after watching this is doesn't look that bad
You're right.
Great video 👍👍😉
Thanks for the visit!
Man very good job! 😊 beautiful explanation wow! Actually the best I have seen so for! 🇯🇲🙏🏾🔥
Hey ... glad you like it and thanks for your comment and support!
@@hardlymovingpro give me your address so I can fight you if I mess up after watching your video step by step! 😂😂😂
I live in the suburbs east of Memphis, TN ... but you can post your questions on this channel if you run into any problems and I'll respond.
@@hardlymovingpro no problem man respect 🙏🏾😂
This well help me a lot
Well done
You bet!
Excellent job
Thanks!
Great vid. Thanks!
Glad you liked it!
I have the same exact vehicle as this. Mine has 178,000 miles on it and hasn't ever had the timing belt replaced. One day while WOT Accelerating out of a turn, the engine started to misfire noticeably. I pulled the codes, and it is misfiring on all 6 cylinders. I've checked the usual ignition components and haven't found any issues. This leads me to believe that the timing belt is likely the issue. The question I have, is when I go to put on the new timing belt, how do I appropriately line up the new belt as you've done with the old functioning one? I can get the motor to tdc and line up the cam pully and all, but how can I be certain that the belt is lined up?
I am going to guess that you're misfire problem is related to a jumped timing belt. Assuming this is true, the thing to do is to align your crankshaft to top dead center first. Then check the position of your camshafts. So if your timing belt jumped I would assume 1 camshaft would be in alignment with the timing mark while the other camshaft would not. You simply need to remove the timing belt Andre position that camshaft that is out of alignment to the top dead center mark.
Also, since you can’t used belt paint marks for the belt alignment, you have to check the belt tension between the cam and crank sprockets. That is, if there is to much belt slack between the crank and cam, your out of alignment. You can move the crank one cog to the left to mount the belt, then position it back to remove the slack. The same logic can be used for the two cams.
Hardly Moving Productions thank you do much for your response. I'll get started now. I have the same kit as in your description. Thank you very much. Subbed
No problem and good luck with the job!
Looks like an excellent Video .
I notice you didnt specify torque numbers on bolts for the Crank bolt , water pump , etc .
Thanks for you comment. Been doing this for so many years, don't use torque wrench that much. More important to spread torque evenly, clean contact surfaces and using quality parts. Though I do use toque specs. for head bolts doing head gasket replacements.