Thanks for the tip, I was having problems with what seemed over fueling on mine. Moved it to position 2 and made a big difference. 750 Holley with 355 and vortec heads. Manual 5 speed
Before you start with your pump, you need to get your transfer slots right. To get them "square", racers take a 1/16 drill bit and drill a hole in the middle of each primary butterfly, this gets your RPM higher, so lower your idle RPM screw. This brings your butterflies closed more so you have less transfer slot showing. You may have to work up larger with a slightly bigger drill bit to obtain a higher Idle RPM. The wrong way to do it is to adjust your secondaries open more to obtain a higher idle, because then you mess up your secondary metering.
Thanks for taking the time to show me I had 2 springs on my carb one facing opposite direction I removed the one facing the front and it seem to help with my foot pedal not sure why there was two springs like that it was like that when I bought my 68 chevelle
I'm having trouble on my 2 barrel Holley carburetor that I just purchased to go on my boat it's a 5.7 the two barrel manifold In acts like it's going to work good until it warms up and then backfire off idle and sometimes if you race it up real fast it runs really good
i had to go to a 50cc pump on mine, I tried and tried with the avenger I own, changing out the cam, the squirters, adjustments ect. then i went to a50cc pump, and bam no more issues...mine was bogging in stop go traffic, and when cruising, then i accelerate more, it will bog at cruising
I wonder if there’s a chart. I have a Summit 600 vac sec carb. 331 cu in, weiand street warrior, blue. Print 190cc heads, comp xe266hr12, 4400 lb Bronco with 3.73 gears manual trans 35” tires at 5000’ elevation. No idea if pump nozzle is too big or small, color pump cam but position I guess would be 1 since idle is 750
hey there got a holley 600cfm 1850 i milled the choke horn was wondering your views on the subject as i watch your videos and think you know ur stuff cheers
Here’s a question for you. 1969 Ford 302. Holley 600 vacuum secondaries. Has the correct power valve for vacuum in drive. Adjusted accelerator pump. Installed a Thompson performance plate under spray nozzle. The carb has a hesitation from a stop light and then kicks in and goes. Removed the the Thompson Performance plate and now has no hesitation can break the rear tires loose. I checked alignment on the plate looks good. Just a little stumped why it’s causing a hesitation and not helping. Any thoughts on this? Thanks!
I have an annoying issue with my 350 chev, it back fires through the carb when throttle is applied moderate to quickly, timing is set right, could it be a jetting or pump cam issue? Timing is set right. Not sure if it is a lean or rich back fire. Has a Holley 650 vac sec, appreciate any help.
William Chisholm - i doubt it has anything to do with the jetting and pump cam. Look to make sure your accelerator pump is adjusted right, watch the Holley accelerator pump adjustment youtube video on how to check it and also make sure all of your spark plugs are gapped correctly.
650 is a little big for a 350 without any porting and polishing. Check for vacuum leaks. Mine had a bad vacuum connection going from the carb to the accel coil
Gear ratio and weight of car is a big factor. So reving at idle won't tell you what it's going to do in gear and driving. If it takes longer to move through rpms due to weight or gears then you want a longer shot. If it runs up gears fast like in a stick shift then you want a shorter shot. What I need to know is the color coding to these cams.
starbattles1 i tune mine with an o2 gauge driving. i tr to stay around12.5 to one on acceleration. here is a link to te pumpcam color coding. www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/images/b/b0/Holley_pump_cam_info.jpg
ThunderHead289 I was thinking of doing that. I found out the street avenger is an emissions approved carb and has a leaned out transfer circuit. Onl way to fix it is to change the metering block from an older 600 holley. Anything else is just a band-aid. Holley is bad for not making this clear. A lot of people waste precious time and money on these things only to junk them and buy something else. Thats just bad business. I didn't buy this carb. Previous owner did. I am going to look at the box in autozone and see if it says anything about being an emissions carb. But even if it does, if it's not explained, then no one would know what that means for there motor. It needs a small cam with large overlap and high intake vacuum to pull fuel from the undersized transfer slots..
I have a holley on a small block chevy and I have a really big loss in power I don't really have a clue what the problem anybody with some insight id appreciate it
drummer12371 ah, so much to consider here. . . .can you be more specific? like coming from a stop? all the time? is the throttle response in neutral snappy?
Thunderhead also no matter how good everything is if the gas is boiling squierter nozzle dumps fuel with air in it when its boiling.this is very important point .so i found put wawa sells pure gasoline here in fl.which has a higher boiling point.people can make a mistake of increasing the size of nozzle cause of nozzle ll put fuel mix with air cause of boiling fuel .that took me decade to figure out i hope it helps to newbies.try pure gasoline first.now i have my holley shield on and a return line but still.
You really need to use a different camera than your cell, as the noise cancellation feature likes to stifle background noise, but usually very sporadically, as in this video. The audio kept cutting in and out, making both your voice and exhaust sound muted and burbley. FYI
@@ThunderHead289 i have a stock 302 in a lil 88 ranger. If I slowly apply throttle its fine but try to snap it and it backfires/too rich. Wat should I try first?? Cam or squirter?
I have a 327/350 with the Holley 80457-5 (2626) 600 CFM elec Choke. Car bogs down, getting air. I'm about to adjust the Accelerator pump lever. Q." First Disingage Fast Idle Cam Lever", same thing ??said differently, .15 feeler guage when NOT at open throttle, always at WOT for this adjustment. Not clear ??? can you help
+Jim Hoffman if you can get the feeler gauge in at full throttle, you are in good shape. You can do it without the throttle open. I'm guessing your issue is more based around the lever adjustment, idle speed vs idle throttle percentage, and mix screw settings.
Thanks for the tip, I was having problems with what seemed over fueling on mine. Moved it to position 2 and made a big difference. 750 Holley with 355 and vortec heads. Manual 5 speed
I really appreciate your videos, especially the carb stuff.
The holley accel pump squirter with the little nozzles on the end always work better i find, rather than just the one with the holes.
Before you start with your pump, you need to get your transfer slots right. To get them "square", racers take a 1/16 drill bit and drill a hole in the middle of each primary butterfly, this gets your RPM higher, so lower your idle RPM screw. This brings your butterflies closed more so you have less transfer slot showing. You may have to work up larger with a slightly bigger drill bit to obtain a higher Idle RPM. The wrong way to do it is to adjust your secondaries open more to obtain a higher idle, because then you mess up your secondary metering.
It sounds exactly the same before and after...
Thanks for taking the time to show me
I had 2 springs on my carb one facing opposite direction I removed the one facing the front and it seem to help with my foot pedal not sure why there was two springs like that it was like that when I bought my 68 chevelle
Thank you brother. This helped me big time.
I'm having trouble on my 2 barrel Holley carburetor that I just purchased to go on my boat it's a 5.7 the two barrel manifold
In acts like it's going to work good until it warms up and then backfire off idle and sometimes if you race it up real fast it runs really good
Excellent video and demo
thank you. iv since pulled this engine to run better things. RIP little 302
Man you rock!! This worked!! Thanks for the help!!!!!
nice truck, thanks for the tips.
The way he has that spring setup it will wear out the throttle shaft. You're better off puting the spring opposite of the cable.
I floor my aceleratlor pedal on my 73 charger and it bearly runs please help
I have a quick fuel brawler and I keep having a stumble or dead spot when throttling and even cruising to full throttle any ideas ?
well explained . thanks
i had to go to a 50cc pump on mine, I tried and tried with the avenger I own, changing out the cam, the squirters, adjustments ect. then i went to a50cc pump, and bam no more issues...mine was bogging in stop go traffic, and when cruising, then i accelerate more, it will bog at cruising
BCcreativeInnovation What engine are u running?
Mucho bueno, Gracias.
Thunderhead what cam color are you using with your Holley.
I wonder if there’s a chart. I have a Summit 600 vac sec carb. 331 cu in, weiand street warrior, blue. Print 190cc heads, comp xe266hr12, 4400 lb Bronco with 3.73 gears manual trans 35” tires at 5000’ elevation. No idea if pump nozzle is too big or small, color pump cam but position I guess would be 1 since idle is 750
hey there got a holley 600cfm 1850 i milled the choke horn was wondering your views on the subject as i watch your videos and think you know ur stuff cheers
It helps alittle.
I've seen tests where milling it actually doesnt do anything.
Here’s a question for you. 1969 Ford 302. Holley 600 vacuum secondaries. Has the correct power valve for vacuum in drive. Adjusted accelerator pump. Installed a Thompson performance plate under spray nozzle. The carb has a hesitation from a stop light and then kicks in and goes. Removed the the Thompson Performance plate and now has no hesitation can break the rear tires loose. I checked alignment on the plate looks good. Just a little stumped why it’s causing a hesitation and not helping. Any thoughts on this? Thanks!
What kind of intake are running
Arthur Hill Ford motorsports dual plane.
I have an annoying issue with my 350 chev, it back fires through the carb when throttle is applied moderate to quickly, timing is set right, could it be a jetting or pump cam issue? Timing is set right. Not sure if it is a lean or rich back fire. Has a Holley 650 vac sec, appreciate any help.
William Chisholm - i doubt it has anything to do with the jetting and pump cam. Look to make sure your accelerator pump is adjusted right, watch the Holley accelerator pump adjustment youtube video on how to check it and also make sure all of your spark plugs are gapped correctly.
I've got the same issue, honey mentions that exact issue in one of their tech videos and says the fix is a bigger spray nozzle
Check plug wires are wired right
650 is a little big for a 350 without any porting and polishing. Check for vacuum leaks. Mine had a bad vacuum connection going from the carb to the accel coil
Gear ratio and weight of car is a big factor. So reving at idle won't tell you what it's going to do in gear and driving. If it takes longer to move through rpms due to weight or gears then you want a longer shot. If it runs up gears fast like in a stick shift then you want a shorter shot. What I need to know is the color coding to these cams.
starbattles1 i tune mine with an o2 gauge driving. i tr to stay around12.5 to one on acceleration. here is a link to te pumpcam color coding. www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/images/b/b0/Holley_pump_cam_info.jpg
ThunderHead289 I was thinking of doing that. I found out the street avenger is an emissions approved carb and has a leaned out transfer circuit. Onl way to fix it is to change the metering block from an older 600 holley. Anything else is just a band-aid.
Holley is bad for not making this clear. A lot of people waste precious time and money on these things only to junk them and buy something else. Thats just bad business. I didn't buy this carb. Previous owner did. I am going to look at the box in autozone and see if it says anything about being an emissions carb. But even if it does, if it's not explained, then no one would know what that means for there motor. It needs a small cam with large overlap and high intake vacuum to pull fuel from the undersized transfer slots..
Emissions for pussies
What farm truck is that? I grew up on farm and never seen no farm truck with carb set up like quarter mile truck. Farm truck my ass.
I dont see stumble but i do see the black smoke
I have a holley on a small block chevy and I have a really big loss in power I don't really have a clue what the problem anybody with some insight id appreciate it
drummer12371 ah, so much to consider here. . . .can you be more specific? like coming from a stop? all the time? is the throttle response in neutral snappy?
Will rich or lean idle mixture affect acceleration as well?
casanovaevren it all harmoniously works together, so yes indeed it will
@@ThunderHead289 i got my holley for 5 years i believe anytime i play with the mixture,it affects the acceleration and not only idle
What i figured is that I was compensating rich idle (transition slots were uncovered)with smaller nozzle
Thunderhead also no matter how good everything is if the gas is boiling squierter nozzle dumps fuel with air in it when its boiling.this is very important point .so i found put wawa sells pure gasoline here in fl.which has a higher boiling point.people can make a mistake of increasing the size of nozzle cause of nozzle ll put fuel mix with air cause of boiling fuel .that took me decade to figure out i hope it helps to newbies.try pure gasoline first.now i have my holley shield on and a return line but still.
What about the rear pump? same thing?
Yup. If it's a double pumper.
@@jumpinjojo thanks man.
You really need to use a different camera than your cell, as the noise cancellation feature likes to stifle background noise, but usually very sporadically, as in this video. The audio kept cutting in and out, making both your voice and exhaust sound muted and burbley. FYI
and don't hook up your spring like that or it will wear out your shaft. pull from the front not the rear.
What color pump cam are you using?
Chandler Castanza im usually in the green white red and orange area. those have always seemed to work best for my cars.
Just been using the factory orange, going to try green and maybe a different nozzle. Thanks!
good luck! i like the green ones curve the best. that or orange do best on the o2 gauge.
@@ThunderHead289 i have a stock 302 in a lil 88 ranger. If I slowly apply throttle its fine but try to snap it and it backfires/too rich. Wat should I try first?? Cam or squirter?
what? color in the campump is better
macanudogodoy Every motor is different. Make sure you dont use a 50cc squirter cam with a 30cc squirter.
No difference lol
Very terrible microphone!!!! Over modulation! Can't stand to listen to any further. What a shame
Some people just should not make videos?
This is way old as far as my automotive career goes. If you have any questions I'd be happy to offer a much better explanation than this
I have a 327/350 with the Holley 80457-5 (2626) 600 CFM elec Choke. Car bogs down, getting air. I'm about to adjust the Accelerator pump lever. Q." First Disingage Fast Idle Cam Lever", same thing ??said differently, .15 feeler guage when NOT at open throttle, always at WOT for this adjustment. Not clear ??? can you help
+Jim Hoffman if you can get the feeler gauge in at full throttle, you are in good shape. You can do it without the throttle open. I'm guessing your issue is more based around the lever adjustment, idle speed vs idle throttle percentage, and mix screw settings.