100% agree...you sir get my vote of approval for the most accurate flat tappet cam break in procedure on UA-cam. This is exactly what I tell my customers. Break in oil, additives with oil AFTER Break in, spray pattern varying the RPM Etc... And in over 30 years in business and literately engines in the thousands, I've only lost maybe 3 or 4 camshafts during break in. Awesome Video. you have my Subscription for sure!
The like button just isn't enough for this video. That is awesome. Nice looking engine. Really like the engine run stand. You need to do a video on that. Maybe I need to get back to videos also since I am doing the Cummins in the backhoe now.
Thanks. I don't know if you saw my video on how I made the test run stand: ua-cam.com/video/5vtmxiPS8tA/v-deo.html I will also do a wiring vid on the test run stand soon. I would love to see your Cummins build!
Spent lots of time at PAW before they closed! Thats good stuff (lube) not that runny crap. Not a fan of that line of cams but the 256 and 262 grinds make good torque
"Break in" Did Detroit ever do this, or did they just do a 5 or 6 minute run in to check for leaks and vibrations/noises, and get the timing set plus final carburetor adjustments to decide if an engine was worth putting a transmission on? As close as I can find, Lunati came out with 'voodoo juice' somewhere near 1990ish, but other more seasoned engine builders would know more than me about special oils history. Point being, a "break in" is a final mating of parts - a burnishing of sorts. The modern variant strangely uses oils with decreased protection to accelerate wear. [Why are we wrangling with cam failures I ask?] There's only one engine component that has no other choice but to finish mating after a machine is built: the rings. And if the hone is good, that happens quickly. Our cams and lifters only need oil film protection - if ra stays under 40 as ground. Maybe... break in oil should dress the bores and skirts for assembly and that vr1 goes in the sump? There is no help from the SAE crowd because the astm tests [IVA and IVB] they lean on for cam and lifters both specify overhead cam engines as part of test procedure, and that means...API certs and product labeling are useless or non-information when the application is a pushrod/flat tappet engine.
I'm building my first full build 306 in a bit... the one question I always cant seem to find the answer to is about timing. I have a basic idea of where my distributor is supposed to be pointed ( its EFI so where the TFI is pointing basically ) based on a photo when the stock engine came out. I always read how important it is to get the RPM right up to 2000 but how important is timing? Obviously a team of two that were good could be running a timing light DURING break in but that may not be possible for me. I do plan to do the 10-10-10 method ... but like is it okay as long as the timing is in a ball park? then worry about it after that first 20-30 minutes? Or is it crucial its right on... thanks for any help
Check total timing say at 3k maybe a lil less. If its too retarded the pipes will glow red and run hot. Have someone monitor engine temp the other keeping an eye out for leaks under hood. I like to keep them around 2500 give or take occasionally running more rpm so you get lots of splash
I do not like mixing different chemistries together had problems where they don,t mix separate and void warranties on small engines the lucas break in would have enough zinc phosphorous moly to do the job
Have you ever broken in a new set of lifters on a cam that’s already existing? I’ve got an AMC 304 that has a crane 272 cam in it that I like but the lifters won’t pass oil to all of the rockers.
No, I always have gotten a new cam and new lifters. I would check your pushrods to make sure that they are not plugged. I would also be wary of "imported lifters".
how long will the lube stay on the lobes after install, will i have a few weeks to put my engine together before breaking it in, or do i only have a few days?
I had a flat tappet cam 350 Chevy back in the year 2000 that sat for 1 year before I got to break it in. There were no ill effects. I might add that I used STP as the engine assembly lube. An old timer told me that back in the day STP will stick around if you can't get to the break in for a while and he was correct. Your should be ok if you use the Isky Rev lube moly cam paste. I can't say for sure if the red goo that comes with some of the new flat tappet cams will survive.
Most flat tappets are going flat no matter, I just built a motor, had it on a break in stand, put in $100 break in oil broke it in at 2500 for 30 mins, dumped the oil and filter put another $!00 break in oil and filter and 4 hours later flat. My buddy just broke in a cam and same thing and while we were discussing it in the store two other people said their cams went flat. I just watched a video from a well know builder saying 50% of flat tappet cams now go flat. Also some builders will not even put them in and you can bet they know how to break in a cam.
My rebuild 350 just got a flat cam lobe some mechanic told me since I got metal in the oil I need a new rebuild again. Is it true or can I just replace the cam and lifters
At the very least, you would want to disassemble your engine and visually inspect ALL the rod, main and cam bearings for gouges and scratches. I would do a thorough inspection of the rod and crank journals too. I would check the piston bores and piston skirts as well. You also might want to flush out all of the oil passages and make sure there is no debris in your oil pan that might get later sucked up into your engine later on.
PAW ? Haven't heard that in forever. Performance Automotive Warehouse. And you still have that little container of assembly lube? What is your definition of liberally? I've got a 351C balanced rotating assy I haven't gotten around to installing. I've got doubts on their honesty. Paid a good bit extra for it all to be balanced. I don't think they did any balancing. They maybe kept their balance while they boxed it up. Anyway, live and learn
I clean the cam with mineral spirits or gas before applying the assembly lube. I also look for any nicks, ridges, roughness or burs on the cam that I might have to sand of with 400-600 grit sand paper. I usually just take my finger and give the cam lobes and the lifters a good liberal smearing of assembly lube.
Good video. I actually have 2 of those small plastic containers with the old school break in lube. Came with my crane cams from back then. Sold the cams, kept the lube. 🤙🏻
This gives me the confidence I need to finally complete my build thank you so much for showing that us little guys can do it too.
I feel this comment 😂
100% agree...you sir get my vote of approval for the most accurate flat tappet cam break in procedure on UA-cam. This is exactly what I tell my customers. Break in oil, additives with oil AFTER Break in, spray pattern varying the RPM Etc... And in over 30 years in business and literately engines in the thousands, I've only lost maybe 3 or 4 camshafts during break in. Awesome Video. you have my Subscription for sure!
Too many run em at 2000 maybe, never vary rpm or crank the daylights out of it rather than make sure the bowls have fuel and dist is in right.
Bookmarked! I'll be doing a cam break-in soon and this old school info works for me. Also, thanks for posting the engine stand vid!
This thing started like the last Chevie I built!
Awesome video very informative
The like button just isn't enough for this video. That is awesome. Nice looking engine. Really like the engine run stand. You need to do a video on that. Maybe I need to get back to videos also since I am doing the Cummins in the backhoe now.
Thanks. I don't know if you saw my video on how I made the test run stand: ua-cam.com/video/5vtmxiPS8tA/v-deo.html
I will also do a wiring vid on the test run stand soon.
I would love to see your Cummins build!
Easy break in, use roller lifters / tappets.
Keep that HEI, best dist ever made! Hard to get a good one anymore most are chicom crap
Flat tappet put the BREAK into BREAK IN.
Spent lots of time at PAW before they closed! Thats good stuff (lube) not that runny crap.
Not a fan of that line of cams but the 256 and 262 grinds make good torque
Did you use weak valve springs or did you use double springs?
"Break in" Did Detroit ever do this, or did they just do a 5 or 6 minute run in to check for leaks and vibrations/noises, and get the timing set plus final carburetor adjustments to decide if an engine was worth putting a transmission on? As close as I can find, Lunati came out with 'voodoo juice' somewhere near 1990ish, but other more seasoned engine builders would know more than me about special oils history. Point being, a "break in" is a final mating of parts - a burnishing of sorts. The modern variant strangely uses oils with decreased protection to accelerate wear. [Why are we wrangling with cam failures I ask?] There's only one engine component that has no other choice but to finish mating after a machine is built: the rings. And if the hone is good, that happens quickly. Our cams and lifters only need oil film protection - if ra stays under 40 as ground. Maybe... break in oil should dress the bores and skirts for assembly and that vr1 goes in the sump? There is no help from the SAE crowd because the astm tests [IVA and IVB] they lean on for cam and lifters both specify overhead cam engines as part of test procedure, and that means...API certs and product labeling are useless or non-information when the application is a pushrod/flat tappet engine.
I'm building my first full build 306 in a bit... the one question I always cant seem to find the answer to is about timing. I have a basic idea of where my distributor is supposed to be pointed ( its EFI so where the TFI is pointing basically ) based on a photo when the stock engine came out. I always read how important it is to get the RPM right up to 2000 but how important is timing? Obviously a team of two that were good could be running a timing light DURING break in but that may not be possible for me. I do plan to do the 10-10-10 method ... but like is it okay as long as the timing is in a ball park? then worry about it after that first 20-30 minutes? Or is it crucial its right on... thanks for any help
Check total timing say at 3k maybe a lil less.
If its too retarded the pipes will glow red and run hot. Have someone monitor engine temp the other keeping an eye out for leaks under hood.
I like to keep them around 2500 give or take occasionally running more rpm so you get lots of splash
I do not like mixing different chemistries together had problems where they don,t mix separate and void warranties on small engines the lucas break in would have enough zinc phosphorous moly to do the job
Have you ever broken in a new set of lifters on a cam that’s already existing? I’ve got an AMC 304 that has a crane 272 cam in it that I like but the lifters won’t pass oil to all of the rockers.
No, I always have gotten a new cam and new lifters. I would check your pushrods to make sure that they are not plugged. I would also be wary of "imported lifters".
how long will the lube stay on the lobes after install, will i have a few weeks to put my engine together before breaking it in, or do i only have a few days?
I had a flat tappet cam 350 Chevy back in the year 2000 that sat for 1 year before I got to break it in. There were no ill effects. I might add that I used STP as the engine assembly lube. An old timer told me that back in the day STP will stick around if you can't get to the break in for a while and he was correct. Your should be ok if you use the Isky Rev lube moly cam paste. I can't say for sure if the red goo that comes with some of the new flat tappet cams will survive.
Most flat tappets are going flat no matter, I just built a motor, had it on a break in stand, put in $100 break in oil broke it in at 2500 for 30 mins, dumped the oil and filter put another $!00 break in oil and filter and 4 hours later flat. My buddy just broke in a cam and same thing and while we were discussing it in the store two other people said their cams went flat. I just watched a video from a well know builder saying 50% of flat tappet cams now go flat. Also some builders will not even put them in and you can bet they know how to break in a cam.
I think if you read the instructions you'll have no problem.
My rebuild 350 just got a flat cam lobe some mechanic told me since I got metal in the oil I need a new rebuild again. Is it true or can I just replace the cam and lifters
At the very least, you would want to disassemble your engine and visually inspect ALL the rod, main and cam bearings for gouges and scratches. I would do a thorough inspection of the rod and crank journals too. I would check the piston bores and piston skirts as well. You also might want to flush out all of the oil passages and make sure there is no debris in your oil pan that might get later sucked up into your engine later on.
No car manufacturer ever jumped through these hoops "back in the day"...why do people make this so difficult?
Some FT cams and lifters are not made like they used to "be back in the day".
Because the materials and procedures they use nowadays to make cams, lifters,ect. quite frankly, suck!.
What lifters did you use?
Comp cams matching hydraulic lifters.
PAW ? Haven't heard that in forever. Performance Automotive Warehouse. And you still have that little container of assembly lube? What is your definition of liberally? I've got a 351C balanced rotating assy I haven't gotten around to installing. I've got doubts on their honesty. Paid a good bit extra for it all to be balanced. I don't think they did any balancing. They maybe kept their balance while they boxed it up. Anyway, live and learn
I clean the cam with mineral spirits or gas before applying the assembly lube. I also look for any nicks, ridges, roughness or burs on the cam that I might have to sand of with 400-600 grit sand paper. I usually just take my finger and give the cam lobes and the lifters a good liberal smearing of assembly lube.
Good video. I actually have 2 of those small plastic containers with the old school break in lube.
Came with my crane cams from back then. Sold the cams, kept the lube. 🤙🏻
Never under 2000 rpm for me,,for 20 minutes