HO How to - Turnouts and Ground Throws
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- Опубліковано 4 січ 2017
- I was requested to show how I do these. Pretty simple once you figure it out.
Let me know if you have any questions.
The link to the ground throw I used:
www.cabooseind.com/_p/prd1/353...
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/ cordovavalleyrr - Розваги
What a great idea. Just retired and getting back into model railroading and I have a lot of old Atlas track and switches. I tried cleaning and tightening the hinges on the points but nothing seemed to work they do just suck. I tried this on an old turnout and it worked great I can make a small switcher just crawl over the turnout with no stalls.
I'm glad it was useful!
Another great and useful tutorial ,with this and the Tortoise switch machine video you did ,I`m all set.
Thanks!!
Great tutorial! Liking the Jammie bottoms! I got a pair myself! Thanks for the help!
Sweet how to Dave!!!! Thanks for sharing how you do yours.
model railer no problem man.
I like the jumoer idea and a good simple way to do the turnout throw switch.
Cool video DaveCo, I imagine new turnouts don’t require this modification to connect the stock rail to the point rails
Great video Dave,thanks , good information
Thanks James.
Thank you for this video !!
Great video, been doing this for a long time but always enjoy seeing how someone else does theirs and I've learned some new tips on this. Thanks for sharing!
David Durbin Glad you enjoyed! Thanks man.
thanks Dave. that helped out a lot. I should go get some of that solder that you have. might be easier. I have the caboose industries throw with the flags. lol, lots of extra part with them ones.
sparky107107 I initially got those too because I thought they look cool. They certainly look cool but I couldn't be bothered making all of them so I bought these ones. If you want i can bring them Friday for you.
Update: they are the ones with lanterns. If you still want them they're yours.
sure, that be great. those are the ones I bought, and the style you did the video on
sparky107107 The ones in the video are different than the ones I'd be giving you.
I have Peco Code 83 Turnouts and the Caboose 218S throw switches. Finally figure out how to install it. My question is this: Being as the throw-bar on the turnout and throw stand only go in one direction, back and forth, is there any reason I can't superglue the pins to them? They are wiggly. I guess once the stand is secured they won't be as much but don't want to take any chances. Thanks.
You could glue the Caboose Pin to the throw bar if you wanted. It just means that if you decide to move/re-use the bar you may damage it when trying to separate them. Maybe just use a dab of super glue, that way it's strong enough to hold but not too hard to separate them if you ever need to.
16:25 "Bad news bears". Hahaha. Great video Dave!
Thanks man!
good job
Dave, that was very informative!!! I'm at the point of installing ground throws this weekend on my layout like the one in your video and glad I saw this. Really like the idea with the T-pins and cutting them, will use that idea for the install. I notice that you did not take the switch to the center position, is that something you don't need to do with the manual ground throw? As always, thanks for the video and looking forward to more!!! BTW video of Big Horn Sheep on the mountain was very cool.
David Muse Thanks David! I don't center the turnout just because by the time I glue it down I know the throw is what I want because I checked it when I pinned it down. you certainly could leave it centered if you'd like, it might help the glue dry in a way that won't set on the throw bar. Good luck!
Thank you.
After I ballast my track, I remove the track nails. The glue from the ballast holds the track down good. Because there are no track nails in the real world. Have fun, Roy
containerman 68 ah that's a great idea. I am in no rush to ballast so I never thought of that. Good tip.
This idea works good for code 100. As for code 83, its more harder as you need to be more precise.
Nice video....Nice wire strippers too. Do they work well on Romex 12AWG or 14AWG as well. I may buy a pair of those.
Phil
Hi Phil,
They work pretty good on 14awg but I've never used then for anything bigger than that. I can't see why they wouldn't, there was plenty of room to spare with the 14awg.
@@DaveCoTrains Thanks for the info Dave. They are a very cool tool. I will be wiring a fairly large mountain (HO) layout for DCC starting with running 12AWG Bus wire and also running the track feeders so I think that tool would come in handy. I do have wire strippers, but that tool you used seemed really fast.
Phil
would you suggest doing that to Peco insulfrog switches I have just begun on my layout and I see there is no power on inter lope
It wouldn't hurt. I'd say try them as is and if you have any power drops then go ahead and try this.
Flux - you need FLUX! The new solder doesn’t contain enough lead (due to new health & safety rules) to help the solder flow well enough. Therefore, a good acid flux is paramount for good soldering. Plus a VERY hot iron so only the smallest amount of contact is needed. I’m not criticising your work, just trying to help those who have difficulty soldering.