Your video dude… Totally helped me fix my problem… I changed my impeller pump for the first time since only my boat, which is not very long, but I did not get the gear shaft lined up and I couldn’t get my boat to go in gear at the dock during my first launch of the of the season… your video helped me solve my problem, thank you
its heavy and kind of a pain to get the lower in solo. at least on my old chrysler. but that little twist you showed helped me get it back in finally. right after mine barely clicked in you have to turn it to for the impeller to link up so that was probably why was such a pain not much play in that area on mine at least. it is easier with a 2nd pair of hands to at least help hold the weight a little.
What a great video with excellent explanation. Great job showing the proper method to install the lower unit. Also, adding the mistakes that could occur. Was wondering if you could show how the adjust the shift shaft back to neutral if the lower shaft spline is accidentally moved? If that shaft spline is moved, it appears that the lower end jumps into forward gear. I purchased the special shift socket to adjust back to neutral and it turned the shaft counter clockwise to hit the reverse and neutral detent. If this happens, people will have a problem with the upper shaft in neutral and their lower shaft in gear. Then they will install the lower unit in gear. Could you make a video showing how to correct this situation?? I want to do it but it is a pain to correct. Would really like to see a professional correct it the proper way. Thanks again for the great video. You are an excellent instructor.
Thank you for the compliments Byron. That is a great idea for a video. I have a couple ways of ensuring the lower unit and control are both in the same gear so I will put together a video in the near future that covers just that.. Thanks for your feedback.
Appreciate the video as im currently having trouble getting my lower unit back on all the way on my 115 yamaha. Just did the impeller change with no issues other than the woodriff key, but now this darn lower unit just wont cinch up all the way. Im fairly sure its somehow hanging up on the shift shaft spline. My question to you is....ive watched numerous other videos as well as comments stating that it's best to leave it in gear when re-installing the lower unit...reason being, so that you can slightly turn the prop to help line up the splines. But on your video, you are stating to keep it in neutral. Since im having major problems trying to get this back on, ill take any advice possible to help me somehow get this lower end back on. Your thoughts are appreciated! 😎
Hi jim am thinking about removing the lower leg on my 40hp (because i am curious about the type of pump i have ) and i have noticed the pitot tube doesnt have a connector outside like the one your working on ,now i know it is a 50hp but when i put this question up on the yamaha forum here in aus one person said that the connector is behind the plate /cover with the two 12mm bolts at the front Having to take that cover plate of every time you service the lower unit seems that it would wear out the bolt threads eventually . I notice that your tube seems to run behind of that cover somehow and the joiner is higher up on the tube . What i would like to do is cut the tube above the plate and put in a joiner so as not to have to remove the plate every time ,i know it's' only two bolts just seems like a pain to have to keep pulling it of all the time to service the lower water pump
That would work. There is usually enough slack in the tube so you can drop the lower unit a bit and disconnect the tube as the lower unit is coming out.
The Yamaha Service Manual states to use Loctite 572 (white) for many of the lower unit bolts. I'm assuming that's because they're worried about vibration. Based on the fact you're just using marine grease, I'm guessing that works well enough and you've never heard of bolts rattling loose?
Loctite 572 is a thread sealer. Yamaha uses it to seal the threads from (mostly) water intrusion, particularly salt water. Grease also works very well as a thread sealer. The bottom line is to stop water creeping up the threads.
Any advice on how to get the shifter into neutral? Mine rotates about 3/4 of a turn, but regardless of where it is in this 3/4 range it still is connected to the prop (can't spin the prop without the driveshaft moving). Thanks for the help in advance!!
You have turned your shift shaft too far. I have had this happen myself. you basically have to use a small amount of force to pop the shift cam back into place to re-engage it.
Gday mate watching this video i thought you forgot to do the bolt on the anode then you pulled of the lower leg ,on my 40 you have to undo the anode to release the gearbox pain really , trying to find a workshop manual for this 40la is near impossible here they wont even sell you one i asked a large dealer and they said it is something with yamaha australia protocols sucks really if you want to do your own servicing and learn about your engine .
If you email your year, model and serial number we can look into finding a digital manual for you so freight costs aren't so high. support@canadawidemarine.com
Hello sir, this is not related to video but i have a question for you. I'd be very happy if you could answer. Can dot4 - 5 - 6 fluid be used instead of tilt trim fluid for Yamaha F25 power trim?
I guess you could use dot 5 brake fluid because it is silicone based and does not absorb water. Do not use dot 3, dot 4, or dot 5.1 as they absorb water. I am not familiar with dot 6. (I don't think there is such a thing). I would be more inclined to use a general hydraulic fluid, or power steering fluid , or transmission fluid if I couldn't get proper trim fluid.
I assume you are asking about the exhaust pressure? Basically the same as the exhaust on your car. Now there are a few other factors, in that the propeller leaves a vacuum in the center that helps draw the exhaust out when the boat is moving, so there is no pressure to speak of in the exhaust housing. It would be interesting to put a gauge on the exhaust housing to measure it under different running situations. I'm sure someone has.
Your video dude… Totally helped me fix my problem… I changed my impeller pump for the first time since only my boat, which is not very long, but I did not get the gear shaft lined up and I couldn’t get my boat to go in gear at the dock during my first launch of the of the season… your video helped me solve my problem, thank you
Great video. I feel confident to do my own impeller service after watching this series. Thanks for taking the time! New subscriber!
Thanks for the sub!
its heavy and kind of a pain to get the lower in solo. at least on my old chrysler. but that little twist you showed helped me get it back in finally. right after mine barely clicked in you have to turn it to for the impeller to link up so that was probably why was such a pain not much play in that area on mine at least. it is easier with a 2nd pair of hands to at least help hold the weight a little.
What a great video with excellent explanation. Great job showing the proper method to install the lower unit. Also, adding the mistakes that could occur. Was wondering if you could show how the adjust the shift shaft back to neutral if the lower shaft spline is accidentally moved? If that shaft spline is moved, it appears that the lower end jumps into forward gear. I purchased the special shift socket to adjust back to neutral and it turned the shaft counter clockwise to hit the reverse and neutral detent.
If this happens, people will have a problem with the upper shaft in neutral and their lower shaft in gear. Then they will install the lower unit in gear. Could you make a video showing how to correct this situation?? I want to do it but it is a pain to correct. Would really like to see a professional correct it the proper way.
Thanks again for the great video. You are an excellent instructor.
Thank you for the compliments Byron.
That is a great idea for a video. I have a couple ways of ensuring the lower unit and control are both in the same gear so I will put together a video in the near future that covers just that..
Thanks for your feedback.
You are my personal hero and thank you for all the instructions
Being a personal hero is a pretty big compliment, thank you. I'll do my best to live up to the title.
Thanks for watching.
Appreciate the video as im currently having trouble getting my lower unit back on all the way on my 115 yamaha. Just did the impeller change with no issues other than the woodriff key, but now this darn lower unit just wont cinch up all the way. Im fairly sure its somehow hanging up on the shift shaft spline. My question to you is....ive watched numerous other videos as well as comments stating that it's best to leave it in gear when re-installing the lower unit...reason being, so that you can slightly turn the prop to help line up the splines. But on your video, you are stating to keep it in neutral. Since im having major problems trying to get this back on, ill take any advice possible to help me somehow get this lower end back on. Your thoughts are appreciated! 😎
Hello
Could you please make some video on that motor for spark plugs, internal anodes, thermostat, how to desalt the engine?
You explained the process very well..thx for the lessons... enjoy your videos
Glad you like them!
are all lower units all the same for installation and take off?
Your videos are amazing! Thanks so much
Great video as usual! I have a question, will a lower unit from a Yamaha 60, 2stroke, 3 cylinder fit at 70hp of the same age, late 80’s?? Thanks 🎣🍀
I'm sorry but I have no idea. You would have to compare them side by side, as well as work out the gear ratio.
@@CanadaWideMarine ok, nothing is easy😅 thanks for your time 👌
Hi jim am thinking about removing the lower leg on my 40hp (because i am curious about the type of pump i have ) and i have noticed the pitot tube doesnt have a connector outside like the one your working on ,now i know it is a 50hp but when i put this question up on the yamaha forum here in aus one person said that the connector is behind the plate /cover with the two 12mm bolts at the front Having to take that cover plate of every time you service the lower unit seems that it would wear out the bolt threads eventually . I notice that your tube seems to run behind of that cover somehow and the joiner is higher up on the tube . What i would like to do is cut the tube above the plate and put in a joiner so as not to have to remove the plate every time ,i know it's' only two bolts just seems like a pain to have to keep pulling it of all the time to service the lower water pump
That would work.
There is usually enough slack in the tube so you can drop the lower unit a bit and disconnect the tube as the lower unit is coming out.
The Yamaha Service Manual states to use Loctite 572 (white) for many of the lower unit bolts. I'm assuming that's because they're worried about vibration. Based on the fact you're just using marine grease, I'm guessing that works well enough and you've never heard of bolts rattling loose?
Loctite 572 is a thread sealer. Yamaha uses it to seal the threads from (mostly) water intrusion, particularly salt water. Grease also works very well as a thread sealer. The bottom line is to stop water creeping up the threads.
Excellent! Was wondering about shift link. But PLZ turn up your audio. I watched on Close Cap.
Thank you, I have since bought a new microphone setup to solve that problem.
Any advice on how to get the shifter into neutral? Mine rotates about 3/4 of a turn, but regardless of where it is in this 3/4 range it still is connected to the prop (can't spin the prop without the driveshaft moving). Thanks for the help in advance!!
You have turned your shift shaft too far. I have had this happen myself. you basically have to use a small amount of force to pop the shift cam back into place to re-engage it.
Gday mate watching this video i thought you forgot to do the bolt on the anode then you pulled of the lower leg ,on my 40 you have to undo the anode to release the gearbox pain really , trying to find a workshop manual for this 40la is near impossible here they wont even sell you one i asked a large dealer and they said it is something with yamaha australia protocols sucks really if you want to do your own servicing and learn about your engine .
If you email your year, model and serial number we can look into finding a digital manual for you so freight costs aren't so high.
support@canadawidemarine.com
@@CanadaWideMarine thanks for that ill get onto it straight away
Hello sir, this is not related to video but i have a question for you. I'd be very happy if you could answer.
Can dot4 - 5 - 6 fluid be used instead of tilt trim fluid for Yamaha F25 power trim?
I guess you could use dot 5 brake fluid because it is silicone based and does not absorb water. Do not use dot 3, dot 4, or dot 5.1 as they absorb water. I am not familiar with dot 6. (I don't think there is such a thing).
I would be more inclined to use a general hydraulic fluid, or power steering fluid , or transmission fluid if I couldn't get proper trim fluid.
@@CanadaWideMarine Thank you so much for your reply.
Perfect thank you so much
You're welcome 😊
This is why I dont remove and change the impeller by my own because I cant reinstall it so hard . I dont wanna destroy anything on my shaft or so😮
More on the trim installation
Thanks!
And I thank you!
How to refill gearbox video pls
full video here:
ua-cam.com/video/kdOYZ_hsHZk/v-deo.html
How much pressure comes out tail shaft
I assume you are asking about the exhaust pressure? Basically the same as the exhaust on your car. Now there are a few other factors, in that the propeller leaves a vacuum in the center that helps draw the exhaust out when the boat is moving, so there is no pressure to speak of in the exhaust housing.
It would be interesting to put a gauge on the exhaust housing to measure it under different running situations. I'm sure someone has.