The stuff works, I noticed after spraying my car interior with it that the shop actually got quieter as if I put in a big area rug, besides the panels not having that "ring" anymore.
Thanks for your input. I appreciate it. May I respectfully counter? Raptor liner is a great product. I would use it for a lot of things, but personally I would hesitate to use it on an interior. 1) Although the jury is still out, there is some concern about Raptor off-gassing, so personally I wouldn't risk using it on an interior. Of course your mileage may vary, but I personally opt out just for that. 2) Raptor is not a very good insulator for heat or for sound (compared to Lizardskin). At the risk of stating the obvious, Raptor is primarily designed to prevent dents and chipping on sheet metal (especially in a truck bed, or perhaps on the undercarriage). As a by-product, Raptor does result in noise reduction because the "tinny" sound effect of the sheet metal is naturally reduced by the enhanced thickness, but it's inferior to the Lizardskin in the tests that I've seen. Raptor has roughly 0 heat insulative properties. 3) I'd love to see the link where you can buy Raptor for 1/2 the price. Lizardskin is about $90/gallon as of this writing. I can't find Raptor for under $130/gal. You're claiming you can buy it for $45? Please share! 4) Finally, my understanding is that the Raptor is hard and relatively brittle compared to Lizardskin. Again, that makes it superior on the exterior, but I'm not looking for protection from dents on the interior. I'd rather have something that flexes with the metal on the interior. For what it's worth, although I see some people applying Lizardskin on the exterior (undercarriage, wheel housings, etc), I would not do that. Lizardskin is too soft for that application. Raptor liner (or perhaps KBS Undercoating for the best bang for the buck) rules the day on the exterior applications. Thanks again for your input!
I like the restoration. Getting a fresh new life. I like that rhino lining texture or the vht wrinkle as well. The wrinkle red looks very nice as well you should look into it maybe. Do a comparison
How much was this? Was it affordable? And what was the coverage? I think it looks good and sounds great if it's a affordable for my project. Thanks again
I haven't priced it for a while, but I believe the price for Lizardskin is comparable to other insulators and sound barriers. It was $80 - $100 / gallon, which gives you about 25 sq ft of coverage at 40 mils thick. I put it on a little thinner than that, and I think it's fine. The trick is the gun, which was $100 on its own. A typical paint spray gun won't work because you need an open nozzle to handle the thick material. There are probably suitable alternatives to the Lizardskin gun, but I don't know what they are.
@@nickle549 the nozzle diameter is almost the size of a yellow #2 pencil , it's huge. I'm doing a 2nd coat tonight on a project,the stuff really works great. Since I've got a gun now ,and it's easy to work with I won't hesitate to spray it in my other cars or projects that come along.
I'm wondering if it is just another way to hold the rust under a nice color? I would say just lay down 2-3 coats of good paint will accomplish the same thing. What is different in this stuff that other coating don't have?
This isn't a rust inhibitor. It's a sound barrier and insulator. So, instead of cutting a bunch of sheets of insulation and sticking them on there one at a time, the Lizard skin accomplishes the same thing with a spray on application.
Watch the demo vid on the lizard skin channel and get back to me where they hammer a 1/4 plate uncoated and then coated. Paint won't do squat, and their vid is pretty much dead on with the results you get.
That thought certainly crossed our minds. In fact we thought about it quite a bit. You'll notice, though, that we did get the full 40 mils of thickness where it counts (firewall and floor). I submit that 20 mils of each (for a total of 40 mils) is better than 40 mils of either one. In the end, we're happy with it. Thanks for the comment.
@@JuanjoseMiguel-z9f I wouldn't put sound mats over it. I think the heavy texture would adversely affect adhesion (the sound mats might not stick well). And it is definitely not a rust inhibitor. The key to avoiding rust is to make sure you eliminate it before you paint and then to get a good layer of coverage. I used epoxy primer for that. Lizardskin was applied on top of the primer.
No the material you are using does not show how well the sound is dampened or reduced as you are not even knocking with your hand. When you leaned in and was speaking I could hear the sound of your voice echo/reverberating when you were near the dash cavity. But could also hear your hand making noise as you dragged your hand over the surface of the area you lined. Lining, sound decoupler and insulating are things best resolved one at a time. When you truck was made they merely painted it. Perhaps put down some sort of composite liner. Finally carpeting perhaps. I'd suggest a decoupler like Amazon Basics, Kilmat, or Dynamat for example. Then I'd go with a closed cell foam insulator like Siless. Finished off with carpeting.
The stuff works, I noticed after spraying my car interior with it that the shop actually got quieter as if I put in a big area rug, besides the panels not having that "ring" anymore.
That is interesting. I hadn't thought about that, but I can see how it would absorb sound from a room. Very cool.
Raptor liner does the same thing for 1/2 the price..
Thanks for your input. I appreciate it. May I respectfully counter?
Raptor liner is a great product. I would use it for a lot of things, but personally I would hesitate to use it on an interior.
1) Although the jury is still out, there is some concern about Raptor off-gassing, so personally I wouldn't risk using it on an interior. Of course your mileage may vary, but I personally opt out just for that.
2) Raptor is not a very good insulator for heat or for sound (compared to Lizardskin). At the risk of stating the obvious, Raptor is primarily designed to prevent dents and chipping on sheet metal (especially in a truck bed, or perhaps on the undercarriage). As a by-product, Raptor does result in noise reduction because the "tinny" sound effect of the sheet metal is naturally reduced by the enhanced thickness, but it's inferior to the Lizardskin in the tests that I've seen. Raptor has roughly 0 heat insulative properties.
3) I'd love to see the link where you can buy Raptor for 1/2 the price. Lizardskin is about $90/gallon as of this writing. I can't find Raptor for under $130/gal. You're claiming you can buy it for $45? Please share!
4) Finally, my understanding is that the Raptor is hard and relatively brittle compared to Lizardskin. Again, that makes it superior on the exterior, but I'm not looking for protection from dents on the interior. I'd rather have something that flexes with the metal on the interior.
For what it's worth, although I see some people applying Lizardskin on the exterior (undercarriage, wheel housings, etc), I would not do that. Lizardskin is too soft for that application. Raptor liner (or perhaps KBS Undercoating for the best bang for the buck) rules the day on the exterior applications.
Thanks again for your input!
Just curious what did you use for undercarriage?
By undercarriage, are you asking about the bottom of the cab? studio.ua-cam.com/users/videoMOLibyIpIsY/edit
I like the restoration. Getting a fresh new life. I like that rhino lining texture or the vht wrinkle as well. The wrinkle red looks very nice as well you should look into it maybe. Do a comparison
Thx, Jorge. I had not seen the VHT wrinkle paint, but it looks promising! I'll give it a go one of these days.
How much was this? Was it affordable? And what was the coverage? I think it looks good and sounds great if it's a affordable for my project. Thanks again
I haven't priced it for a while, but I believe the price for Lizardskin is comparable to other insulators and sound barriers. It was $80 - $100 / gallon, which gives you about 25 sq ft of coverage at 40 mils thick. I put it on a little thinner than that, and I think it's fine. The trick is the gun, which was $100 on its own. A typical paint spray gun won't work because you need an open nozzle to handle the thick material. There are probably suitable alternatives to the Lizardskin gun, but I don't know what they are.
@@some-guys-garage thank you 😊 it looked and sounds great!! Il try to maybe borrow a different type of gun from a friend. Thanks again.
@@some-guys-garage Could I use a normal bed liner spray gun for $20?
Probably. Anything with a nozzle large enough to handle the thick substance with little nodules in it should work fine, I would think.
@@nickle549 the nozzle diameter is almost the size of a yellow #2 pencil , it's huge.
I'm doing a 2nd coat tonight on a project,the stuff really works great.
Since I've got a gun now ,and it's easy to work with I won't hesitate to spray it in my other cars or projects that come along.
What CFM compressor would you need to use this? I can take breaks for my compressor if need be. Its 5.9 CFM at 90 psi. Thanks.
That should work. I believe it calls for 4-5 CFM at 70 psi.
@someguyzgarage Sounds good.
I'm wondering if it is just another way to hold the rust under a nice color? I would say just lay down 2-3 coats of good paint will accomplish the same thing. What is different in this stuff that other coating don't have?
This isn't a rust inhibitor. It's a sound barrier and insulator. So, instead of cutting a bunch of sheets of insulation and sticking them on there one at a time, the Lizard skin accomplishes the same thing with a spray on application.
Watch the demo vid on the lizard skin channel and get back to me where they hammer a 1/4 plate uncoated and then coated.
Paint won't do squat, and their vid is pretty much dead on with the results you get.
Paint won't do anything, nor will bedliner. Too hard to absorb anything
What's the point of spending so much money to then just not even meet spec and half do it??? Should have just used sound mats.
That thought certainly crossed our minds. In fact we thought about it quite a bit. You'll notice, though, that we did get the full 40 mils of thickness where it counts (firewall and floor). I submit that 20 mils of each (for a total of 40 mils) is better than 40 mils of either one. In the end, we're happy with it. Thanks for the comment.
Exactly!
@@some-guys-garagecan you put the sound mats over it ? And you think it can prevent rust from forming ?
@@JuanjoseMiguel-z9f I wouldn't put sound mats over it. I think the heavy texture would adversely affect adhesion (the sound mats might not stick well). And it is definitely not a rust inhibitor. The key to avoiding rust is to make sure you eliminate it before you paint and then to get a good layer of coverage. I used epoxy primer for that. Lizardskin was applied on top of the primer.
No the material you are using does not show how well the sound is dampened or reduced as you are not even knocking with your hand. When you leaned in and was speaking I could hear the sound of your voice echo/reverberating when you were near the dash cavity. But could also hear your hand making noise as you dragged your hand over the surface of the area you lined. Lining, sound decoupler and insulating are things best resolved one at a time. When you truck was made they merely painted it. Perhaps put down some sort of composite liner. Finally carpeting perhaps. I'd suggest a decoupler like Amazon Basics, Kilmat, or Dynamat for example. Then I'd go with a closed cell foam insulator like Siless. Finished off with carpeting.
I agree. Carpet is a must.