Is it really worth doing a clutch kit for the 9R? Heard it is pretty dialed from the factory? I would definitely use adjustable clutch weights for changes in elevation.
@@doug7759 I stand corrected. We’ve had multiple sources think it was aluminum but it’s steel. The new bolt is steel as well but slightly different. Hopefully it’s the fix.
Thanks for the video! I feel like I should address one apparent error in this video. The proper way to reinstall the P22 is to perform initial torque to 140 ft/lbs using a special "tool". The tool is simply a stronger bolt that doesn't have the taper by the threads and is available from Polaris. Once set, remove the tool and replace with the primary clutch bolt and torque to 110 ft/lbs. Highly recommend occasionally rechecking torque and hopefully the new bolt will take the frequent torquing. Polaris and it's ambassadors continue to downplay issues with the P22 and I understand it isn't happening or going to happen to everyone, but for those of use who have had their P22 fall off and/or explode in remote locations, this clutch is guilty until proven innocent.
Blue works. I wouldn’t use red on those T27’s. Remember that clutching isn’t a “set it & forget it” thing so having the ability to get back into the internals is a good idea 👍 Also with all things snowmobiling going back through your machine looking for loose nuts + bolts is just good upkeep…. Thanks for watching ✊
So I have my set screw flush to the heal and I’m hitting 8300 rpm on my trail sled at 120 to 150km so should I bury the weight to carry that rpm at top speed cause at 190km it dropped to 7900rpm.
Awesome news! I thought it was running high at 8600 after I put the green spring with the yellow stripe from SLP in there. Turns out it sounds perfect.
Remember I don’t work for Polaris. The bolt issue has been an issue that they have addressed to multiple dealers. The new bolt is steel and should solve things 👍
I don’t think it’s “making such a big deal about” when those bolts are breaking all the time. It is an actual big deal when you’re in the backcountry. Take an extra bolt.....easy right.....but the majority of the time it breaks and leaves threads in the crank so a new bolt doesn’t do you any good anyways. The fact of the matter is, this is something we absolutely shouldn’t have to be worried about. And the worst part.....it’s happening year after year.
Just like anything it all takes a bit of patience and practice. Being a rider and not having some basic idea of how this stuff works could be a bad thing. Having a belt or clutch problem in the backcountry is a reality we all face so at least having some idea would be helpful. Thanks for sharing 🙏
Clutch guys like JS are GOLD......thanks for the post!💰💰💰💰
Agreed he’s one in a million 👊👊👊
Definitely the best video I’ve ever watched on clutching and it’s called throw lol
Great Video couldn't have explained it better!
Nice work guys!!!
Great video Dan. I think that clutch bolt should be torqued be for every ride. Even though they say it is from engaging and disengage 😊
Super informative! Thanks
Thanks for watching, glad you found it useful!
Is it really worth doing a clutch kit for the 9R? Heard it is pretty dialed from the factory? I would definitely use adjustable clutch weights for changes in elevation.
night and day gain when I added the clutch kit
The factory 9R clutching is possibly the worst stock calibration I've ever ridden.
@@performanceengineered2839naw. The Boost is much worse. 😂
Do you know what Polaris is gonna do about the primary clutch bolt situation?
They’ve gone to a steel bolt that should solve the issue 👊
What material were the bolts before?
@@doug7759 I stand corrected. We’ve had multiple sources think it was aluminum but it’s steel. The new bolt is steel as well but slightly different. Hopefully it’s the fix.
@@Ccrider2220 hey bud I was wrong. The bolt was steel and is still steel but a slightly different spec. Hopefully it’s the fix. 👍
There’s a list of 24 quality improvements. They should be much better!
Thanks for the video! I feel like I should address one apparent error in this video. The proper way to reinstall the P22 is to perform initial torque to 140 ft/lbs using a special "tool". The tool is simply a stronger bolt that doesn't have the taper by the threads and is available from Polaris. Once set, remove the tool and replace with the primary clutch bolt and torque to 110 ft/lbs. Highly recommend occasionally rechecking torque and hopefully the new bolt will take the frequent torquing. Polaris and it's ambassadors continue to downplay issues with the P22 and I understand it isn't happening or going to happen to everyone, but for those of use who have had their P22 fall off and/or explode in remote locations, this clutch is guilty until proven innocent.
I've done the same thing with my cat secondary but with my drill press
Do you happen to have a part number? My dealer definitely didn’t know what I was talking about when I asked them about the new bolt.
I don’t have the new part number either. Hopefully it’s info that Polaris is making available 👍
Well Done Boys
Just wondering what kind of Loctite is used on the set screws, Looking to replaced it a set i am using.
Blue works. I wouldn’t use red on those T27’s. Remember that clutching isn’t a “set it & forget it” thing so having the ability to get back into the internals is a good idea 👍
Also with all things snowmobiling going back through your machine looking for loose nuts + bolts is just good upkeep….
Thanks for watching ✊
Do they tell ya how to keep a primary clutch on a Polaris cause there still flying off
What size were the primary clutch cover bolts you bought from hardware store? Dia,, length & thread ?
SCR-M6X1.0X35
This is the stock bolt and I just took it in and went 3/4” longer.
Makes the install very simple 👍
i had a bikeman cover,had the clutch rebalanced.Clutch cover cracked.Careful what you buy
Bummer you had a problem. We’ve been running multiple covers in multiple sleds for a while now with zero issues 🙏
They will warranty it out if you had an issue. please contact them
So I have my set screw flush to the heal and I’m hitting 8300 rpm on my trail sled at 120 to 150km so should I bury the weight to carry that rpm at top speed cause at 190km it dropped to 7900rpm.
You should ask this exact question to Bikeman Performance. They’ll have the right answer for ya!
Thanks for watching ✊
What is the target RPM maximum that we are looking for on a stock 24 boost?
We like 8550-8650!!
Awesome news! I thought it was running high at 8600 after I put the green spring with the yellow stripe from SLP in there. Turns out it sounds perfect.
now can you do ski doo? Just snow checked a 2025 summit turbo ;)
Would a titanium clutch bolt be an even better option?
Titanitum is a weaker material than steel...
Didn’t talk about sending the primary out to be balanced. Pros/cons
I’ve actually never done that so I left it out of this video. I continue to hear good things though and a pile of guys are recommending it. 👍👍
FIRST !! FROM SWEDEN
It would be nice if you had of spent a little more time on the primary bolt issue beside just saying this is what everyone is talking about .
Remember I don’t work for Polaris. The bolt issue has been an issue that they have addressed to multiple dealers. The new bolt is steel and should solve things 👍
I can’t wait to rip this sled in a few months! :-)
Polaris engineers have never figured out how to prevent clutch bolt failures, unbelievable!
When you buy everything from China this is the result
I don’t think it’s “making such a big deal about” when those bolts are breaking all the time. It is an actual big deal when you’re in the backcountry. Take an extra bolt.....easy right.....but the majority of the time it breaks and leaves threads in the crank so a new bolt doesn’t do you any good anyways. The fact of the matter is, this is something we absolutely shouldn’t have to be worried about. And the worst part.....it’s happening year after year.
Air is too be at time of. Ride
One thing should be explained is first time owners should not be doing clutch work. Or people that just ride and don’t do their own maintenance .
Just like anything it all takes a bit of patience and practice. Being a rider and not having some basic idea of how this stuff works could be a bad thing. Having a belt or clutch problem in the backcountry is a reality we all face so at least having some idea would be helpful.
Thanks for sharing 🙏