How To: Remove Front Differential on First Gen Nissan Xterra (Replacing Oil Pan Step 2)
Вставка
- Опубліковано 19 лип 2021
- Need to replace your leaking oil pan on VG33E Nissan Xterra? After you remove the steering system, the next step is to tackle your front differential (4WD models only). To remove the oil pan, you will have to remove the front cross member that the differential bolts to, which also makes it easier to re-install the front differential when you are finishing up.
While the differential is out, now is a good time to throw in a Lokka automatic differential locker, replace any seals that may be leaking, and swap out your diff fluid.
Now is NOT a good time for diff drop bushings. There is never a good time for diff drop bushings. Please don't do that mod.
Thanks Rob! Great video as always. Very much appreciate what you do for the Xterra/Frontier community and helping us all keep these beasts on the road. Looking forward to the next installment.
Always happy to help! Thanks for the kind comments.
I’m not a 100% certain but I think this is the same concept for the first gen 4x4 frontiers also this video is helping a lot on my 92 XE pathfinder, please correct me if I’m wrong. I’m sure everything isn’t the same but again the concept is the same to drop the front diff to get to the oil pan.
Should be extremely close. Just gotta look and see what's in the way blocking access to get the oil pan out. Should be super close but I don't have direct experience on the pathfinder or frontiers.
Awesome video! Can't wait to see the oil pan and starter sequel.
Thanks for the comment...coming soon... :)
Dude, I'm replacing my steering parts right now. Got an 04 X same color as yours. I'm putting on the AC articulator lift, Moog steering parts, and Grassroots center link. Your videos have been insanely helpful! Thanks dude!
Awesome my dude! Happy to help! Let me know how it goes.
@@XterraRob lca problems like usual. Buying a bushing driver as we speak haha! Other than that, smooth
Dammit, now I'm scared to start this process. Just finished my full suspension lift, HD steering assembly, and complete front brake kit last weekend. Last on the list is the diff drop and s/c radiator upgrade. 4x4parts UCA bushing were tough enough...now I hear the diff bushings are worse?? Shiiiiy
Keep the weight of the vehicle up on blocks or jackstands when you remove the cross member the frame will twist out if you dont
Thanks for the tip!
Once again great video Rob!
Just curious to know if you ever replaced your motor mounts?. I'm currently looking to replace mines for the hd motor mounts from Rugged Rocks. Do you know if the front differential need to be dropped down in the process? or is there any trick to replace them? Especially the mount from the driver's side since the front differential is on the way to remove the lower bolts.
I have never had to replace motor mounts. I would take a look at the factory service manual. Just do a google search for "Nissan Xterra Factory Service Manual" and look for a link through NiccoClub or some website to that effect. They have .pdf downloads of the factory service manual from Nissan. For very specific replacements like a motor moount...I would start there. I imagine they will tell you to lift the engine out though...
I juust paid a guy to do this. He messed up my torsion bar indexing in the process, but he didn't know.
Wonder how he did that...no real need to mess with torsion bars to remove front diff. Did he do oil pan too or just the differential? Or did he do rear main seal too? Dropping transmission requires torsion bars to be removed.
@@XterraRob oh ok, he did the oil pan but then the rear main seal, I guess that's how it happened
@@brother_dana That is probably how it happened. I have a video of how to re-index them from a couple years ago if you want to give it a go yourself. Otherwise, you can send it to the mechanic and have him re-do it :)
Hi Rob! Is it worth it intalling the front Lokkaa to the first gen Xterra if you have a 3 inch lift and running 33's?
Depends on how you use 4WD. Mostly on actual trails? Yes 100%. Mostly on snowy roads in the winter? Nah. Mix of trails and snowy roads, probably if you are willing to learn how it drives amd adjust accordingly on snowy roads.
Unrelated to this video, however I love your stuff and I have a question. I have an 04 xterra. I want to do a 2" BL. It looks like my X has a 1" on it already. Could I double up the 1" pucks that I have and then just buy whatever other 2" pucks that I need to finish? It would cut down on cost a bit if I could go that route. What are your thoughts?
Are you sure you are seeing a 1 1nch body lift on your truck? Where are you seeing this? My guess is that it is the rubber body mount you are seeing and not a lift puck. I have a video all about body lift tips and tricks and should show all the details to help explain. Otherwise you can shoot me an email (on my channel page on the "About" section) with a photo of exactly what you are looking at.
@@XterraRob thanks for the reply. I just sent you an email with a few pics. Thanks for the great content. Very helpful videos!
Quick question - when reinstalling, do I have to re-weld the welds I grinded off?
I did not...if you have a welder you can though. Otherwise just torque them as high as you can with hand tools...100+ foot pounds or so is probably good.
@@XterraRob Thanks! That's good news since I don't know how to weld. Hell, I barely know how to work on my Xterra, but your vidies and help are teaching me s lot and are giving me the confidence to try.
Hey boss, do I need to cut the tack welds if I’m just taking the diff out for a lokka install? Or can I remove the whole assembly? Also do I need to take the wheels off or can the car just sit the way it is? Mine is lifted to I can just climb right under there
Wheels stay on...same here...lifted trucks make it easier to work underneath! I have another video on the Lokka install you can review. You have two options: 1) grind the welds off and lower the differential down with cross member still attached. 2) un bolt the differential bushing mount that attaches to the cross members. Leave the cross member in place and rotate the differential down and off the cross member. It is a bit tedious and more difficult to raise into place though because you have to raise it at an angle to get the front diff bushing back on top of the cross member.
@@XterraRob cool thank you man, appreciate the help! I'll try the second method first, I'll get my buddy to help, we both bench 250 so together we should be able to work something out lol.
Just going to do some research on the dimensions now once the lokka is in. Kind of confused on where the micro measurements come from, since I mean its the same diff, and the same lokka, so more or less everyone should have the same measurements yet some folks' are totally off. Im still confused on where those measurements come from, and how they're adjusted, I wish there was a bit more elaboration on it
@@XterraRob okay I did a bit more research, looks like the shims seem to determine the size. So for example, if with the shims installed, everything assembled, let's say the gap is too big by just a bit.. i've seen some people sand the shims down in an attempt to make them thinner. Is this a good strat lol? And the more important question is, what is the shims are too skinny and make the gap too large?
I don't even know at this point lol
So the shim washers in the diff come in different sizes from Nissan. Ideally you would order the correct size based on your measurements. That being said...i took some measurements and just reassembled everything. As long ss you have enough clearance for the gears to ratchet without hitting the cross shaft, and the gap is close enough that the springs don't fall out,you should be good.
@@XterraRob great, I feel fairly confident in this now, thanks to your help. Ordered the thing about a week ago so I guess i'll get to it as soon as it arrives, I'll post an update and I'll send the facebook xterra group to your channel when I finish it up
🍀☘️⭐🌟👍