How to Solder a Ball Valve to Copper Pipe
Вставка
- Опубліковано 9 вер 2024
- In this video I demonstrate how to properly solder a brass or bronze ball valve to copper pipe. This process works for all solder (also known as sweat) ball valves, both lead free and leaded.
Great video
Nice job, but you should also mention the two different kinds of flux. (Potable and non-potable). Also you forget to reinstall the washer back under valve nut.
You are correct, it is absolutely essential to use lead-free solder and flux for potable water applications. I haven't seen leaded solder or flux at any of my local plumbing supply stores, as modern lead free solders work well and are inexpensive.
When I soldered copper pipes to a shower diverter, it took awhile to heat up. I moved the flame around to heat up the opposite sides.
Don't forget that washer that is leaning on the vice.
Very helpful. Thank you.
Everyones a "pipefitting cowboy" on the internet. Some manufacturers recommend sweating the ball valve in the closed position.
Agreed. You should always follow the manufacturer's instructions. I have seen some that recommend the closed position, other recommend soldering them open or at 45 degrees.
You explained that very well Good job bro✅💯
Thanks brother
You're not supposed to add solder with the flame off the female end, it defeats the capillary suction.
Why no Heat Sink Or wet rag ❓❓❓
A narrow wet cloth wrapped around the ball joint and handle area would protect the ball joint.
Whether the ball valve should be closed or not when soldering is dependent on the manufacturer. Need to check that first.
Yes, that is correct. However, the majority of valves I have seen recommend soldering in the open position.
@@DragonBuilds all information in Internet is closed
The flame still seems to be very close to the ball valve. Does simply pointing the flame AWAY from the ball valve make the difference between damaging it and not damaging it? How about the other type of shut off valve, i.e., the type that has black rubber seals inside? If the seal/handle screws out as a unit, should it be removed before heating? And in situations there the black rubber seal unit can't be removed, what is the closest to the shut off valve that the flame can be applied to a copper pipe WITHOUT risking damaging the seal?
I personally wouldn't install a new multi-turn valve because ball valves are more reliable, but for multi-turn valves with rubber disc seals, the stem should be removed before soldering. If you have to solder near an existing valve, I would wrap it with a wet rag before soldering.
Wet rag is the best
Was that enough solder? I use way more but maybe too much
Once you see a ring form around the pipe you know that you have used enough solder. A handy trick is to use a length of solder equal to the pipe size, such as 1/2" of solder for a 1/2" pipe.
You forget the washer.
Hard to watch stop removing the flame before it’s ready won’t hurt the solder
Shouldnt touch the cleaned copper before applying flux with your bare fingers.
You shouldn’t touch the copper with your fingers once prepped. I’m sure you know that!
I soldered but solder wasn’t sticking
Make sure your pipes and fittings are clean, that is probably the most important step. Sand cloth works pretty well. Using enough flux and enough heat is important too. At the right temperature, the solder should get sucked right in.
@@DragonBuilds thanks! I did sand and cleaned everything , used lots of flux but flux burned off
@@DragonBuildsthanks for the tips! I made sure to clean everything and it came out great with no leaks!
The oil from your fingers will cause the solder not to stick. So limit touching the spot to be soldered or wear gloves
Was that enough solder, I tend to apply more
Solder end ball valves should be installed with the valve in a closed position. Extreme care must be used to prevent overheating of the valve causing damage to seats and seals