Im an amateur guitar builder, taking my first foray into acoustic building. Your content has been awesome so far and it’s helped me a lot, keep it up!!
It's amazing how many of us come from a bodywork background... It's interesting how that discipline relates so well to building guitars. The guitar looks beautiful. Thanks for bringing us along while you build it. -Greg
I've been watching Guitar Building videos for the last year and I'm just getting up the courage to think about start to try it but I'm not quite there yet. Thank you for sharing your process and knowledge. Much gratitude for you and your Channel
Great video. One thing I've learned is that a hard edge is a delicate edge. The more square a corner is, the faster it starts collecting dings. I do a lot of finish work for local woodworkers who often deliver stuff "sanded and ready to go!" Some take more care than others, and some are just terrible. A year ago, I refinished our old oak stair treads and decided to fill the grain (pandemic work). I used an old time method but substituted water based poly for a drying oil. I sanded the treads in a puddle of poly making a slurry (I also had dust I'd collected) and then wiped it flat with a plastic blade. All the grain (and small dings) filled with the mix and dried looking like wood. It's still like glass now. I've started doing this on some pieces at work (as I've had some time to say it seems durable) but have wondered if I should use it on a ukulele I'm building. I haven't even decided on a finish, and don't know if there could be some funky interactions so I worry. Thanks!
That’s actually how most people that French Polish instruments usually do it (or close to that method.) using fine dust from the wood and pumice to create a wood filling paste with the shellac. It’s time tested and a solid method. Some uke builders also use super glue with great success! As long as your pore fill is chemically compatible with you final finish, or catalyzed to ensure it won’t react, you should be fine!
That is a BEAUTIFUL guitar! There is NO WAY you can get this level of attention from the large guitar makers. That is a guitar to pass on to your kids for sure!
Amazing content for guitar builders both new and experienced, but those inlays are just incredible... your artistic side is just something to behold....
Thanks buddy. Are used to shellac as a seal coat Then my poor fill with pumice. Then I put nitrocellulose lacquer on top. Works out really good for me I haven’t had any issues yet
Production is an equation. Excellent description of pay now or pay later. When considering time is money, it's typically best to do it correctly the first time. ++added bonus, no rework from customer returns down the road.
Another good reason for rounding over the binding is that it allows you to build the finish over the edge of the binding. If you leave it fairly square, you will not be able to build the finish and any hard bump to the edge will most likely result in a dent as square edge always show wear and tear quicker.
Loved the Video. Thank you for sharing your knowledge. Refreshing to see real time work and helpful hints. What was the total guitar sanded down to in this video was it 220 all the way around? Thank you again!
Think I could use a belt sander with a heavy grit sandpaper, then hand sanding it with a fine grit of some sort to strip finish from a '89 Yamaha FG400a? I'm experimenting, replacing the bridge, nut and saddle, pick guard.. Thinking of sanding off the lacquer and using clear coat stain on it.. Project Guitar! Lol.. Thank you for the Awesome Content.. I'm a total Rookie at this, but having fun..
I got hooked on your channel recently, when I started making my first Stew Mac dreadnought kit build. I just finished the box and noticed I have a little dent in the sound board, near the edge that looks like it probably came from a bolt end (the circular end) that was pressed into the wood. unfortunately there's a little bit of a dark tint inside the dent. I still have time for the sanding but do you have any suggestions on fixing this so I don't have a circular imperfection on the soundboard?
I don’t think I’ve ever seen a bevel on an acoustic guitar before. I’ve always had a problem with acoustics for this reason and I think it should be the new standard!
O Brian guitars has a good video on Z Poxy filling as well which I followed recently. How do you find the festool sander for finishing? I have a old Bosch but even with fine grit paper I can see the small sanding swirls in the wood and so have to hand sand to get it good.
I’m struggling with finish prep work. I French polish mainly cos I don’t want to splash out a grand on spray equipment. I use a Royobi 601e orbital sander but even going to 400grit it leaves really small circles that show up badly when the finish goes on. I’m now resorting to hand sanding which is really tedious.
Will scratches from 220/320 grit hide when apply nitro? Or will it magnify? I'm unsure how perfect I need to sand. First time spraying nitro on a guitar.
My two cents: Cocobolo was the main culprit, along with Ebony, that led me to hang up my chisels. It is a nasty allergen! Use a respirator, wear long sleeves, double down on your air purification and dust control. After working the wood clean the floor, bench and tools really well to avoid ingesting fine Coco or Ebony dust. I wish I had spent the money on proper dust control instead of wood and tools. No kidding guys, some of the wood we use can be dangerous to your health! When you receive tone wood, especially tropical hardwood, do not sand off the paraffin on the ends, it is often dipped in anti fungal and bug control chemicals. If you sand the dipped ends you can ingest the dust along with those nasty and dangerous chemicals. Instead cut off the dipped ends before working the wood. Don’t learn the hard way.
@@DriftwoodGuitars Loving the content, your work is amazing and inspiring :) Rob Cosman's live streams are worth your time if you're not already a fan, and his tech team does a great job; audio is always great. "Video is 80% audio" :)
Re: softening that hard edge on the binding - hard edges are NOTORIOUSLY thin areas of finish, and a burn-through when buffing is almost difficult to avoid.
I’m already here for part 2.
Thanks my friend! Coming this week for sure.
Wait.. Is there gonna be a fucking Rhett Shull Driftwood guitar?!?
You never know!
Great idea! Any signature guitars at driftwood yet?
I only recently started to follow your channel, it was the cocobolo video that brought me here. I have to say I am enjoying your content.
anyone else lovin' these regular uploads?
Im an amateur guitar builder, taking my first foray into acoustic building. Your content has been awesome so far and it’s helped me a lot, keep it up!!
Agreed 100% , with the sickest inlays I've ever seen .... A true master of his craft...
Hi from the UK. One of the best vid series for hobbyist (I can't consider myself amateur yet!) luthiers I've found. Thanks.
Still amazing to see my old high school best friend making beautiful guitars.
It's amazing how many of us come from a bodywork background... It's interesting how that discipline relates so well to building guitars. The guitar looks beautiful. Thanks for bringing us along while you build it. -Greg
I've been watching Guitar Building videos for the last year and I'm just getting up the courage to think about start to try it but I'm not quite there yet. Thank you for sharing your process and knowledge. Much gratitude for you and your Channel
Thanks for watching and we plan to cover every part of the process on this channel.
@@DriftwoodGuitars Absolutely beautiful guitars by the way brother...I mean jaw dropping!
Great video. One thing I've learned is that a hard edge is a delicate edge. The more square a corner is, the faster it starts collecting dings. I do a lot of finish work for local woodworkers who often deliver stuff "sanded and ready to go!" Some take more care than others, and some are just terrible. A year ago, I refinished our old oak stair treads and decided to fill the grain (pandemic work). I used an old time method but substituted water based poly for a drying oil. I sanded the treads in a puddle of poly making a slurry (I also had dust I'd collected) and then wiped it flat with a plastic blade. All the grain (and small dings) filled with the mix and dried looking like wood. It's still like glass now. I've started doing this on some pieces at work (as I've had some time to say it seems durable) but have wondered if I should use it on a ukulele I'm building. I haven't even decided on a finish, and don't know if there could be some funky interactions so I worry. Thanks!
That’s actually how most people that French Polish instruments usually do it (or close to that method.) using fine dust from the wood and pumice to create a wood filling paste with the shellac. It’s time tested and a solid method. Some uke builders also use super glue with great success! As long as your pore fill is chemically compatible with you final finish, or catalyzed to ensure it won’t react, you should be fine!
That is a BEAUTIFUL guitar! There is NO WAY you can get this level of attention from the large guitar makers. That is a guitar to pass on to your kids for sure!
Amazing content for guitar builders both new and experienced, but those inlays are just incredible... your artistic side is just something to behold....
Thanks buddy. Are used to shellac as a seal coat Then my poor fill with pumice. Then I put nitrocellulose lacquer on top. Works out really good for me I haven’t had any issues yet
Production is an equation. Excellent description of pay now or pay later.
When considering time is money, it's typically best to do it correctly the first time.
++added bonus, no rework from customer returns down the road.
I've sprayed a coat of lacquer prior to grain filler on a couple of builds now, it works well.
Good video, Chris... I'm looking forward to the next one...
Those inlay skills are amazing 👌
Another good reason for rounding over the binding is that it allows you to build the finish over the edge of the binding. If you leave it fairly square, you will not be able to build the finish and any hard bump to the edge will most likely result in a dent as square edge always show wear and tear quicker.
Loved the Video. Thank you for sharing your knowledge. Refreshing to see real time work and helpful hints. What was the total guitar sanded down to in this video was it 220 all the way around? Thank you again!
i still in the adventure of my first guitar, but now i know how im going to finish it. thanks a lot!
Hi Chris. LOVE your work. I was wondering if you could do a detailed video on how you do your arm rest and waist scallop. Thanks
That’ll be coming eventually.
Will you ever do a video on how you do your inlays on your fret boards? Awesome and informative information for us luthier wana bees.
Think I could use a belt sander with a heavy grit sandpaper, then hand sanding it with a fine grit of some sort to strip finish from a '89 Yamaha FG400a? I'm experimenting, replacing the bridge, nut and saddle, pick guard.. Thinking of sanding off the lacquer and using clear coat stain on it.. Project Guitar! Lol.. Thank you for the Awesome Content.. I'm a total Rookie at this, but having fun..
Love this series
I appreciate it!
Loving these vids man, keep it up!
I got hooked on your channel recently, when I started making my first Stew Mac dreadnought kit build. I just finished the box and noticed I have a little dent in the sound board, near the edge that looks like it probably came from a bolt end (the circular end) that was pressed into the wood. unfortunately there's a little bit of a dark tint inside the dent. I still have time for the sanding but do you have any suggestions on fixing this so I don't have a circular imperfection on the soundboard?
Nice work.
I don’t think I’ve ever seen a bevel on an acoustic guitar before. I’ve always had a problem with acoustics for this reason and I think it should be the new standard!
A light coat of shellac before poor filler seems to work pretty well.
If I have low spots on the sides, do I fill them with resin until flush? Maybe several applications depending the depth of the low spots? Or...✈️✈️✈️
O Brian guitars has a good video on Z Poxy filling as well which I followed recently. How do you find the festool sander for finishing? I have a old Bosch but even with fine grit paper I can see the small sanding swirls in the wood and so have to hand sand to get it good.
I’m struggling with finish prep work. I French polish mainly cos I don’t want to splash out a grand on spray equipment. I use a Royobi 601e orbital sander but even going to 400grit it leaves really small circles that show up badly when the finish goes on. I’m now resorting to hand sanding which is really tedious.
Will scratches from 220/320 grit hide when apply nitro? Or will it magnify? I'm unsure how perfect I need to sand. First time spraying nitro on a guitar.
My two cents: Cocobolo was the main culprit, along with Ebony, that led me to hang up my chisels. It is a nasty allergen! Use a respirator, wear long sleeves, double down on your air purification and dust control. After working the wood clean the floor, bench and tools really well to avoid ingesting fine Coco or Ebony dust. I wish I had spent the money on proper dust control instead of wood and tools.
No kidding guys, some of the wood we use can be dangerous to your health! When you receive tone wood, especially tropical hardwood, do not sand off the paraffin on the ends, it is often dipped in anti fungal and bug control chemicals. If you sand the dipped ends you can ingest the dust along with those nasty and dangerous chemicals. Instead cut off the dipped ends before working the wood. Don’t learn the hard way.
Wise words. Thank you!
South american hard woods totally caused an allergic reaction unbelievable itching scared to use it again!!
I seal with shellac but same effect as the trial lacquer you are doing
Padauk bleeds as well.
really really wish i could have some of your guitar and i really really enjoy watching your videos💖 hope you could do a raffle of free guitar😂
It’s something we’re considering! Stay tuned
Nice guitar.. how much would a finished product like that cost... Ball Park.
I am trying to find someone to give me a legit answer. Do you HAVE to do the wood fill and epoxy/polymer/clear coat?
can you share what spray gun and method you use spray
I come from car painting too, why not 2k and use so much less ?, and more durable too
I would like to suggest you get a cardoid microphone and/or run a compressor on the audio. Your voice is a bit low and we're here for the content!! :)
Working on it! Thanks for the input. Gonna use Lav mics soon
@@DriftwoodGuitars Loving the content, your work is amazing and inspiring :)
Rob Cosman's live streams are worth your time if you're not already a fan, and his tech team does a great job; audio is always great. "Video is 80% audio" :)
Shellac would be a better alternative for a seal coat then lacquer.
Yeah if I had some on hand, I may have used that.
Cocobolo is oily do you clean it before sealer
Re: softening that hard edge on the binding - hard edges are NOTORIOUSLY thin areas of finish, and a burn-through when buffing is almost difficult to avoid.
Valid point as well! Thanks for the input!
Padauk would have to be close for bleeding colour I'd have thought...no?.
... do I sand the Spruce top all the way to 5000 grit before spraying the lacquer?...✈️✈️✈️
No need to go past 400
@@DriftwoodGuitars - ok, thanks
...by the way, your guitars are superior...✈️✈️✈️
what brand of sander is that
Festool
Sanding sealer to prevent color bleed?