To avoid blisters and hot spots, wear thinner, slippery dress socks and then regular boot socks inside out. Sounds weird but it totally works and saved my feet in basic training.
Biggest tip I used when breaking in my nicks was conditioned the inside of the upper every time I put them on so it helped them mold to my ankles faster
If you've beeswaxed the boots like we do in the army to make them rock hard and they are not comfortable you can heat the boot so the wax is sof inside the lether and then once it's cooled it will stay in its cureent form hard again but stretched and fledged in the where it needs to be for your foot
I'm breaking in a pair of nicks right now and it's beyond brutal. My first pair of rugged boots was a pair of iron rangers, and while they were stiff when I got them, they are so silky smooth now it's like wearing a glove. These Nicks are something else though. It feels like I'm wearing wooden shoes.
I feel ya. They remind me of my first pair of jump boots I got in the Army. I can assure you though, once your Nicks are broken in they will feel unlike any other boot you've owned, and they'll last far longer than your Iron Rangers. I've found this to be the case for all very rugged high quality PNW boots. They are the diesel engines of boots.
I haven't seen one of my break in methods in the comments so here's one of mine. Lift weights in them. I'm pretty light at around 60kg so some of the last things to break in in my footwear is the foot bed. Lifting weights speeds up the break in of the foot bed while you don't move around much so not much abrasion on the rest of the foot.
That's an interesting trick that makes sense to me. Essentially you are making yourself a lot heavier and thus harder on the boots which need to flex and break in to accommodate the weight. Thanks George
A great trick that has worked for me numerous times is to work the leather with my hands. You can put 3 weeks worth of break in with 30 mins using your hands.
Thanks for the video and the tips! Fyi, NB's don't have any cork in them (5:50). It's all leather other than the rubber anti-squeak layer b/w the insole and midsole and the outsole itself.
Very thick merino wool socks I bought at a hunting supplies store made it possible to comfortably wear some new boots I had brought on a 2 week vacation, which were giving me heel blisters. Never underestimate the power of ridiculously thick socks.
My cobbler broke in my Iron Rangers after a month of blisters. Total comfort in one day. He said essentially used a heating device and focused on some vital spots. Used conditioner as well. Not sure if this is good or bad long term for the leather.
I had the worst break in experience with my White's moc toes. Serious heel blisters. I massaged the leather and compressed and expanded the heel counter a lot for about a week. And I literally taped gauze pads on my heels when I wore them. Two weeks of that and they were fine. But man, it was a journey.
I’ll have to take your word on that my nicks boots I got with a customer cap toe Is rough when I crouch which is a lot during the day. I think if I buy a pair of boots from a PNW company I’m gonna get it in buffo I have Mocs that I had made by my cousin after hunting on the rez easies breaking and very durable leather up ther with kangaroo leather
From all the vids I’ve watched, I’m expecting a 2-month break-in time frame for my Builder Pros…had them made with the honey vibram. I’m on day 2…wish me luck!
I’m surprised how little I hear about how different sock materials have different friction coefficients. A silk or nylon sock within a silk or nylon sock produces way less heat when rubbed against one another than one sock against the heel cup.
You are right about heat and moisture being the two best things to soften leather and break-in boots. Walking in the boots does more to break in the footbed, but not the upper. I use heat and moisture to break in the upper I break in the upper leather with a hot, slightly damp washcloth or hand towel. You do not want to soak the leather. The hot towel a barber uses before a shave is perfect. Press the hot, slightly damp towel on to the boot to warm up leather, which will gradually become soft and pliable. Shape the leather around your ankle bone and Achilles’ tendon. Repeat for the toe vamp areas and the shaft of tall boots. Keep the boots on while they dry out. I’ll do this when I am in the Lay-Z-Boy watching a ball game on TV.
Trying to break-in Nick's, I got Plantar fasciitis and bone spurs on both feet and heels. Caused by the mid-sole slab of Veg-tan leather. My cobbler suggested it before I said a thing about the boots. He removed it and now they fit and feel like sneakers. I've never felt that kind of pain in my life. With or w/o shors I could barely walk for 3 months. (edit) I've worn boots my entire life too.
I wear my new boots on my treadmill, changing to thicker socks when appropriate. When finished on the treadmill, I use a rolled up facecloth to force into the vamp/instep area, as that area is the hardest for me to breakin. I gradually increase the diameter of the cloth, by folding over, untill the instep area of the boot stretches to my liking- similar method to breaking in a new holster- wrap the pistol in plastic wrap and leave in holster for a few days.
Purchased a pair of Nicks with the English Bridal Veg tan from Wickett and Craig. I also opted for the 2021 Sand Wedge outsoles. If you don't want the tough break in period, try the sand wedge soles. Mine are extremely comfortable right out of the box.
I want to plug using rubbing alcohol to soften up boots if needed. TLDR: Frank (from Frank’s boots) advised me to use rubbing alcohol when I was struggling to break-in the footbed on my Frank’s Patriots. He probably knows what he is talking about for an *all leather* PNW-style (no fiberboard, cork, etc.) boot. Full story:I recently bought a pair of Frank’s Patriot boots and I was really struggling to break in the arches. I started to question my purchase and wondered if my arches were too flat for PNW boots - it felt like I was walking on a wood block, shaped like my arch, but much too tall in the middle. I reached out to Frank’s through email and got a response from Frank himself. He told me to take a mixture of 50/50 water and rubbing alcohol and pour it in the boot, let it sit for a minute, then pour it out, put the boots on, lace ‘em up tight, and go for a walk. I gotta say, it made a world of difference. I’m not sure what it does to the leather or its longevity, but it sure made the boots wearable. I am still breaking them in, but they are not nearly as painful as before. It gave me hope again that these boots will be very comfortable once broken in. I would also say that Frank has probably forgotten more about leather and boots than I will ever know, so I feel like he would not advise me to do something that would destroy my boots. Now it should be said that these are a PNW logger boot - leather insole and midsole, stitch down construction, 7-8 oz uppers, stiff as a board and tough as nails. There is no cork, fiberboard, cardboard, or any other weak materials. It is probably not advisable to do this for anything less than this type of construction, nor should it be necessary. These boots are built to withstand extreme conditions and are very stiff, so they may require extreme measures, depending on your feet. Iron Rangers, Parkhurst, Grant Stones, etc., are all well made and tough, but should not need anything close to this type of treatment to break in.
I had a real hard time breaking in my old Red Wings, now they are like my Danners. I have a pair of Rancourt's from Maine that I am still having problems with. The right boot just never feels right. It's tighter on the outside of my right side of my foot then the left is. Of course they are non-returnable. I might try the sandpaper route..Thanks..another nice video..
So far the only break in periods I’ve ever experienced is the soles breaking in. I can usually wear a band new pair of boots for upwards of 4-8 hours of constantly being on my feet (I work retail so there’s no desk work for me) with little more than mild discomfort in the soles of my feet. After a month or two of this I can wear my shoes for as long as I like with little to no pain, and this has been with shoes ranging in price from $60-114 in cost, so I’ve experienced a variety of construction.
I have only noticed having a bit of a hot spot where I commonly get them I just re adjust the laces to be less tight or a different lacing pattern like if it get bad I will ladder lace or loop up into the next eye so it had more flex Also bonus tip if you are doing a lighter/thinner sock do bamboo as they help reduce hot spots companies like red back advertise this
Compeed is the best plaster to use on blisters or hot spot. I have been using them for over thirty years. They stick much better than the alternatives and they promote healing with the gel inner. They're not cheap but worth every penny when you have rubbing boots.
One note: There's no cork in Nick's. Been looking at their construction while doing research, and that's one of their selling points. All leather with a bit of rubber
My old man was issued super stiff boots in the army during the 50s and he and his mates used to fill their fresh boots with warm water till saturation then wear/march in the boots till they dried. I tried it and it works. 👍
Some things I did to break in my boots is wear them on shorter easier work shifts, wear them on short errands, and wear them to hang outs that don't involve a lot of moving around.
I got my first pair of whites smoke jumpers 4 days ago and I've been wearing then ever since (about 30 to 35 hours of total wear) and they haven't caused me any pain yet. I haven't even oiled them yet. They did cause some toe rubbing, but that went away yesterday. So far so good.
For my Nicks steel toe builder pros i started with just wearing them around the house, Then i started doing the dog walks in them. Then i started wearing them for work but i had my old boots with me just in case. Turns out i didn't need them but if it had got to much i had the option to change them.
You shouldn't use alcohol and water (50/50 mix) however, there is proof that this works and has been used for a very long time to stretch leather. It actually doesn't dry the leather out and does allow a reaction with the leather to allow it to stretch. Its a practice used with leather for a long time. However, safer, and slower, oil (if absolutely needed to stretch it a bit) will work to soften the leather. Taking them to a local cobbler will assist in this process too. You can also, simply hold them in ur hand and bend them where they would literally bend. Just basically moving the leather in ur hand. This process wont help it form to ur foot, but it will absolutely start to allow the leather to relax.
i ended up having to ford a 3 foot deep river in my hotshots when they were only a few days old. had to spend the next few days rehydrating the leather so they didn't rot away. 3 years later they're doing just great. definitely wouldn't do it again. really dried the leather out
When I started working in an aluminum cast house a few years ago I had to begin wearing heavy duty boots. Thiiiick leather is an absolute necessity but is stiff af. Best thing I ever did was bring an extra pair or two of cheap cotton socks and throw on an extra pair if needed. Helps prevent blisters and slows down the wear on your good work socks while also helping stretch that new leather. 3 to 6 months in and you likely wont have to worry about comfort anymore.
neatsfoot oil is also a very good option to soften the uppers! and as a bootmaker i feel obliged to say there is truth to the alcohol method. off course you dont pour a bottle of booze over your boots but rather you slightly dampen the uppers with a 50/50 mixture off water and ethyl alcohol before wearing them. its also whats sometimes used to work the leather when making boots. used sparingly it doesn't harm the leather at all as it quickly evaporates. the alcohol basically just helps the water to soak very deep and evenly into the leather fibers due to its lower density thus helping the material to swell and soften up better. it also prevents water marks due to this property. very good method actually! that said i'm really sceptical towards the wet socks method^^! it could work but why walk around in wet socks only slightly dampening your uppers when you could very thoroughly moisten your leather from the outside while keeping allmost dry feet?!
My Wesco stock engineer boots were so stiff that I only wore them for short periods , I then decided to do the water soak method.I soaked them in warm water, inside also,I put them on poured water inside kept them on for 6 hrs. The next day they were semi dry and wore them again, they broke in just right, I oiled them with Huberds shoe grease.
They fit like a glove, not stiff anymore. The second day they were damp wore them until they dryed in this 100+ weather in the desert I live in. WESCOS are tough this momentary water exposure did no harm them at all.
Wear silk sock liners for break in under your regular socks. They are designed for hikers to prevent blisters and wick moisture. They are thin so not much bulk but just enough to get a good fit.
One year late, oh well! 1. One coat Bick 4 conditioner, wrap a micro fiber (MF) towel around foot of cedar tree and install in each boot. Let boots rest three days. 2. Wear one hour around the house. Install MF towel wrapped boot trees and recondition with Bick 4. Let boots rest two days. 3. Wear two hours around the house and repeat with Bick 4 and MF towel wrapped boot trees. Let boots rest one day. 4. Wear boots two hours and place trees in the boots. Remove MF towels. Let boots rest one day. 5. Wear the socks you typically wear with boots. Also, place a small strip of Mole Skin inside the heel of the boot. Remove it once break-in is complete.
I watched that first video yesterday, and I was thinking, "That's a metric shit ton of words for a guy with a foo foo dog telling you to wear your boots." The dog is cute af, but I was expecting a boot guy dog - like a shepard or a pittty. Anyway, I use mink oil and a boot dryer for a couple days.
Just get you some boots from Pacific Northwest with the heel for the arch. Doesn’t matter who you get them from. Nicks whites, JK, Wesco and Franks all made about the same. JK is faster and has better customer service than most.
I just put mink oil in the inside of my boots. It’s much easier the only downside is my socks were soaked in mink oil too and I had to throw them away 😢
Serious break-in (for heavy, tall boots): Use a heat gun (hairdryer as plan B) along the seams and flex areas and then rub some beeswax along these warm areas. Also, (for tall and heavy boots) skip several lace holes in the middle... skip from the top of your foot to the two top holes... allows the leather to move and doesn't feel like a cobbler is 'getting medieval on your ass'..er...foot. If you can't stand the pain of Nicks-Clamp (™) then you won't wear your boots and break them in. These two tricks will cut down your break in time.
try a different last or width. could be you are improperly sized. if the instep is tight and it is the correct size you'll just have to wear them till they stretch to your foot
For me, the trick that works best is to take a full size bic lighter and use the bottom end to stretch out the pressury spots both when I put them on and when I take them off. Use cedar shoe trees to pull the moisture out overnight. Takes a few days and it's over. Worked on my Iron Rangers and my Nicks... or at least made them bearable enough to wear through a full day. Once you get to full days, you're in the home stretch.
I wear my new boots while swimming in the ocean. Saturating them with salt water adds years to the life of the boots and really gives that distressed patina a head start 😄 !
Condition the dam leather That breaks them within days Use tons of liquid fiebings mink oil on the flesh side of rhe leather and that deeply gets it going
Boot stretchers? Leather relaxers? Come on. Buy the right size. Wear them sparingly daily, and add more time as you go. Just put them on your feet, folks.
You should get all your jeans tapered. I did that solely to show off my boots to the fullest. Your jeans are covering way too much of those cool Americana boots.
Dont buy nicks. ordered a pair back in April and still waiting on it to be made. Not sure if I need boots to last me 30 years in or if it is even worth 700 dollars. If it doesnt come by week 25, Ill switch to Oak Street boots - same thing, less wait time, fairer price, American made.
To avoid blisters and hot spots, wear thinner, slippery dress socks and then regular boot socks inside out. Sounds weird but it totally works and saved my feet in basic training.
Biggest tip I used when breaking in my nicks was conditioned the inside of the upper every time I put them on so it helped them mold to my ankles faster
Great tip right there!
If you've beeswaxed the boots like we do in the army to make them rock hard and they are not comfortable you can heat the boot so the wax is sof inside the lether and then once it's cooled it will stay in its cureent form hard again but stretched and fledged in the where it needs to be for your foot
I'm breaking in a pair of nicks right now and it's beyond brutal. My first pair of rugged boots was a pair of iron rangers, and while they were stiff when I got them, they are so silky smooth now it's like wearing a glove. These Nicks are something else though. It feels like I'm wearing wooden shoes.
I feel ya. They remind me of my first pair of jump boots I got in the Army. I can assure you though, once your Nicks are broken in they will feel unlike any other boot you've owned, and they'll last far longer than your Iron Rangers. I've found this to be the case for all very rugged high quality PNW boots. They are the diesel engines of boots.
I haven't seen one of my break in methods in the comments so here's one of mine. Lift weights in them. I'm pretty light at around 60kg so some of the last things to break in in my footwear is the foot bed. Lifting weights speeds up the break in of the foot bed while you don't move around much so not much abrasion on the rest of the foot.
That's an interesting trick that makes sense to me. Essentially you are making yourself a lot heavier and thus harder on the boots which need to flex and break in to accommodate the weight. Thanks George
A great trick that has worked for me numerous times is to work the leather with my hands. You can put 3 weeks worth of break in with 30 mins using your hands.
Try using a hot, damp washcloth or hand towel when you do that. Do not soak the leather. You want damp, not wet.
Thanks for the video and the tips! Fyi, NB's don't have any cork in them (5:50). It's all leather other than the rubber anti-squeak layer b/w the insole and midsole and the outsole itself.
Very thick merino wool socks I bought at a hunting supplies store made it possible to comfortably wear some new boots I had brought on a 2 week vacation, which were giving me heel blisters. Never underestimate the power of ridiculously thick socks.
My cobbler broke in my Iron Rangers after a month of blisters. Total comfort in one day. He said essentially used a heating device and focused on some vital spots. Used conditioner as well. Not sure if this is good or bad long term for the leather.
I had the worst break in experience with my White's moc toes. Serious heel blisters. I massaged the leather and compressed and expanded the heel counter a lot for about a week. And I literally taped gauze pads on my heels when I wore them. Two weeks of that and they were fine. But man, it was a journey.
Yeah, I find moc toes to be quite a rough break-in. Well done.
I’ll have to take your word on that my nicks boots I got with a customer cap toe Is rough when I crouch which is a lot during the day. I think if I buy a pair of boots from a PNW company I’m gonna get it in buffo I have Mocs that I had made by my cousin after hunting on the rez easies breaking and very durable leather up ther with kangaroo leather
From all the vids I’ve watched, I’m expecting a 2-month break-in time frame for my Builder Pros…had them made with the honey vibram. I’m on day 2…wish me luck!
I’m surprised how little I hear about how different sock materials have different friction coefficients. A silk or nylon sock within a silk or nylon sock produces way less heat when rubbed against one another than one sock against the heel cup.
We used the same trick in USAF Basic Training.
Nicks boots do not have cork on the inside. They are not Goodyear welted so they do not require filler material.
I was going to give this info. Glad to have found this comment already.
Yep, I just learned this when doing a review of the nicks, which is coming out next week
You are right about heat and moisture being the two best things to soften leather and break-in boots.
Walking in the boots does more to break in the footbed, but not the upper. I use heat and moisture to break in the upper
I break in the upper leather with a hot, slightly damp washcloth or hand towel. You do not want to soak the leather. The hot towel a barber uses before a shave is perfect.
Press the hot, slightly damp towel on to the boot to warm up leather, which will gradually become soft and pliable.
Shape the leather around your ankle bone and Achilles’ tendon. Repeat for the toe vamp areas and the shaft of tall boots.
Keep the boots on while they dry out. I’ll do this when I am in the Lay-Z-Boy watching a ball game on TV.
Great tip right there!
Trying to break-in Nick's, I got Plantar fasciitis and bone spurs on both feet and heels. Caused by the mid-sole slab of Veg-tan leather. My cobbler suggested it before I said a thing about the boots. He removed it and now they fit and feel like sneakers. I've never felt that kind of pain in my life. With or w/o shors I could barely walk for 3 months. (edit) I've worn boots my entire life too.
I wear my new boots on my treadmill, changing to thicker socks when appropriate. When finished on the treadmill, I use a rolled up facecloth to force into the vamp/instep area, as that area is the hardest for me to breakin. I gradually increase the diameter of the cloth, by folding over, untill the instep area of the boot stretches to my liking- similar method to breaking in a new holster- wrap the pistol in plastic wrap and leave in holster for a few days.
Purchased a pair of Nicks with the English Bridal Veg tan from Wickett and Craig. I also opted for the 2021 Sand Wedge outsoles. If you don't want the tough break in period, try the sand wedge soles. Mine are extremely comfortable right out of the box.
I want to plug using rubbing alcohol to soften up boots if needed. TLDR: Frank (from Frank’s boots) advised me to use rubbing alcohol when I was struggling to break-in the footbed on my Frank’s Patriots. He probably knows what he is talking about for an *all leather* PNW-style (no fiberboard, cork, etc.) boot.
Full story:I recently bought a pair of Frank’s Patriot boots and I was really struggling to break in the arches. I started to question my purchase and wondered if my arches were too flat for PNW boots - it felt like I was walking on a wood block, shaped like my arch, but much too tall in the middle. I reached out to Frank’s through email and got a response from Frank himself. He told me to take a mixture of 50/50 water and rubbing alcohol and pour it in the boot, let it sit for a minute, then pour it out, put the boots on, lace ‘em up tight, and go for a walk. I gotta say, it made a world of difference. I’m not sure what it does to the leather or its longevity, but it sure made the boots wearable. I am still breaking them in, but they are not nearly as painful as before. It gave me hope again that these boots will be very comfortable once broken in. I would also say that Frank has probably forgotten more about leather and boots than I will ever know, so I feel like he would not advise me to do something that would destroy my boots.
Now it should be said that these are a PNW logger boot - leather insole and midsole, stitch down construction, 7-8 oz uppers, stiff as a board and tough as nails. There is no cork, fiberboard, cardboard, or any other weak materials. It is probably not advisable to do this for anything less than this type of construction, nor should it be necessary. These boots are built to withstand extreme conditions and are very stiff, so they may require extreme measures, depending on your feet. Iron Rangers, Parkhurst, Grant Stones, etc., are all well made and tough, but should not need anything close to this type of treatment to break in.
I had a real hard time breaking in my old Red Wings, now they are like my Danners. I have a pair of Rancourt's from Maine that I am still having problems with. The right boot just never feels right. It's tighter on the outside of my right side of my foot then the left is. Of course they are non-returnable. I might try the sandpaper route..Thanks..another nice video..
So far the only break in periods I’ve ever experienced is the soles breaking in. I can usually wear a band new pair of boots for upwards of 4-8 hours of constantly being on my feet (I work retail so there’s no desk work for me) with little more than mild discomfort in the soles of my feet. After a month or two of this I can wear my shoes for as long as I like with little to no pain, and this has been with shoes ranging in price from $60-114 in cost, so I’ve experienced a variety of construction.
I fill my boots full of water with the hose as I'm tying them up for my first walk. Never had a problem w/that method but to each is own.
I have only noticed having a bit of a hot spot where I commonly get them I just re adjust the laces to be less tight or a different lacing pattern like if it get bad I will ladder lace or loop up into the next eye so it had more flex
Also bonus tip if you are doing a lighter/thinner sock do bamboo as they help reduce hot spots companies like red back advertise this
Compeed is the best plaster to use on blisters or hot spot. I have been using them for over thirty years.
They stick much better than the alternatives and they promote healing with the gel inner.
They're not cheap but worth every penny when you have rubbing boots.
One note: There's no cork in Nick's. Been looking at their construction while doing research, and that's one of their selling points. All leather with a bit of rubber
My old man was issued super stiff boots in the army during the 50s and he and his mates used to fill their fresh boots with warm water till saturation then wear/march in the boots till they dried. I tried it and it works. 👍
I believe that the toughest boots are the Italian army paratrooper boots, those from the 80s and 90s, laced up to the toes and as hard as "tanks"
If I remember correctly, obenaufs suggests conditioning the inside of the boot where the hot spot is. ONLY IN THE BEGINING With their oil conditioner
Some things I did to break in my boots is wear them on shorter easier work shifts, wear them on short errands, and wear them to hang outs that don't involve a lot of moving around.
This is what I did as well.
Yep, that’s basically exactly what i do too. Just wear them when you know you don’t have to trudge in them for hours
What’s the black over shirt your rocking
I got my first pair of whites smoke jumpers 4 days ago and I've been wearing then ever since (about 30 to 35 hours of total wear) and they haven't caused me any pain yet. I haven't even oiled them yet. They did cause some toe rubbing, but that went away yesterday. So far so good.
Dang, you’re crushing those things! Nice!
Lots of specific tips here delivered fast! Thanks!
For my Nicks steel toe builder pros i started with just wearing them around the house, Then i started doing the dog walks in them. Then i started wearing them for work but i had my old boots with me just in case. Turns out i didn't need them but if it had got to much i had the option to change them.
You shouldn't use alcohol and water (50/50 mix) however, there is proof that this works and has been used for a very long time to stretch leather. It actually doesn't dry the leather out and does allow a reaction with the leather to allow it to stretch. Its a practice used with leather for a long time.
However, safer, and slower, oil (if absolutely needed to stretch it a bit) will work to soften the leather.
Taking them to a local cobbler will assist in this process too.
You can also, simply hold them in ur hand and bend them where they would literally bend. Just basically moving the leather in ur hand. This process wont help it form to ur foot, but it will absolutely start to allow the leather to relax.
This was some good points and a well constructed video. Good job.
i ended up having to ford a 3 foot deep river in my hotshots when they were only a few days old. had to spend the next few days rehydrating the leather so they didn't rot away. 3 years later they're doing just great. definitely wouldn't do it again. really dried the leather out
"Mole Skin" I like the video, good advice.
When I started working in an aluminum cast house a few years ago I had to begin wearing heavy duty boots. Thiiiick leather is an absolute necessity but is stiff af. Best thing I ever did was bring an extra pair or two of cheap cotton socks and throw on an extra pair if needed. Helps prevent blisters and slows down the wear on your good work socks while also helping stretch that new leather. 3 to 6 months in and you likely wont have to worry about comfort anymore.
neatsfoot oil is also a very good option to soften the uppers! and as a bootmaker i feel obliged to say there is truth to the alcohol method. off course you dont pour a bottle of booze over your boots but rather you slightly dampen the uppers with a 50/50 mixture off water and ethyl alcohol before wearing them. its also whats sometimes used to work the leather when making boots. used sparingly it doesn't harm the leather at all as it quickly evaporates. the alcohol basically just helps the water to soak very deep and evenly into the leather fibers due to its lower density thus helping the material to swell and soften up better. it also prevents water marks due to this property. very good method actually! that said i'm really sceptical towards the wet socks method^^! it could work but why walk around in wet socks only slightly dampening your uppers when you could very thoroughly moisten your leather from the outside while keeping allmost dry feet?!
My Wesco stock engineer boots were so stiff that I only wore them for short periods , I then decided to do the water soak method.I soaked them in warm water, inside also,I put them on poured water inside kept them on for 6 hrs. The next day they were semi dry and wore them again, they broke in just right, I oiled them with Huberds shoe grease.
Worst idea ever, do not do this
They fit like a glove, not stiff anymore. The second day they were damp wore them until they dryed in this 100+ weather in the desert I live in. WESCOS are tough this momentary water exposure did no harm them at all.
Wear silk sock liners for break in under your regular socks. They are designed for hikers to prevent blisters and wick moisture. They are thin so not much bulk but just enough to get a good fit.
Ooo nice, great tip!
Or a cheaper alternative are free nylons from shoe stores
those Nicks are crazy beautiful !
One year late, oh well!
1. One coat Bick 4 conditioner, wrap a micro fiber (MF) towel around foot of cedar tree and install in each boot. Let boots rest three days.
2. Wear one hour around the house. Install MF towel wrapped boot trees and recondition with Bick 4. Let boots rest two days.
3. Wear two hours around the house and repeat with Bick 4 and MF towel wrapped boot trees. Let boots rest one day.
4. Wear boots two hours and place trees in the boots. Remove MF towels. Let boots rest one day.
5. Wear the socks you typically wear with boots. Also, place a small strip of Mole Skin inside the heel of the boot. Remove it once break-in is complete.
I watched that first video yesterday, and I was thinking, "That's a metric shit ton of words for a guy with a foo foo dog telling you to wear your boots." The dog is cute af, but I was expecting a boot guy dog - like a shepard or a pittty. Anyway, I use mink oil and a boot dryer for a couple days.
OHHH I've wanted to see someone review Packers for a while.
What color are your Americana’s in this video? Love that leather
Lol, wearing new boots to the water slides? That would be hilarious to see. I can't imagine a water park would even allow that.
That’d make a pretty great video
My whites packer boots weren't really hard to break In but I wear them on my farm so the get a beating
Can you review the Thursday Major?
I can only fit in EEE and I have a high arch :( . Limits my options a lot.
Just get you some boots from Pacific Northwest with the heel for the arch. Doesn’t matter who you get them from. Nicks whites, JK, Wesco and Franks all made about the same. JK is faster and has better customer service than most.
@@rainman6080 Ill check that out!
what leather color/type were those Nicks?
I just put mink oil in the inside of my boots. It’s much easier the only downside is my socks were soaked in mink oil too and I had to throw them away 😢
Replace them with camel city mill socks! Best wool work socks in the game
Try it without socks, the sweat of your foot will soften the leather up due to the chemicals in your sweat. I did this with all my 6 pairs
Serious break-in (for heavy, tall boots): Use a heat gun (hairdryer as plan B) along the seams and flex areas and then rub some beeswax along these warm areas. Also, (for tall and heavy boots) skip several lace holes in the middle... skip from the top of your foot to the two top holes... allows the leather to move and doesn't feel like a cobbler is 'getting medieval on your ass'..er...foot. If you can't stand the pain of Nicks-Clamp (™) then you won't wear your boots and break them in. These two tricks will cut down your break in time.
Good tip!
Great tips. Could you do a video on best boots for height increase?
I have an article on bootspy.com - search best elevator boots and you’ll find it
@@BootSpy sweet, thanks
Any tips to deal with a tight instep
That’s what I struggle with the most and these tips have helped me the most. Try a thinner sock. It’s counter intuitive, but might help
try a different last or width. could be you are improperly sized. if the instep is tight and it is the correct size you'll just have to wear them till they stretch to your foot
There shouldn't be any cork inside a pair of the Nick's insole.
You can’t beat putting in the miles as much as you can.
It’s the best way
Another very informative video Bill...! 5 STARS... GG
For me, the trick that works best is to take a full size bic lighter and use the bottom end to stretch out the pressury spots both when I put them on and when I take them off. Use cedar shoe trees to pull the moisture out overnight. Takes a few days and it's over. Worked on my Iron Rangers and my Nicks... or at least made them bearable enough to wear through a full day. Once you get to full days, you're in the home stretch.
That's retardad..... don't use fire like lighters around boots you're pre destroying leather
Also grammar and English much?
You could also just wear them.
Couldn't imagine breaking in a boot tougher than my helm. It's brutal.
Which boots? I had no issues with my Hollis.
@@davidpalmer9014 dark natural Lou
I wear my new boots while swimming in the ocean. Saturating them with salt water adds years to the life of the boots and really gives that distressed patina a head start 😄 !
You’ve ascended to boot lord!
@@BootSpy I hope it pays well 💰💵😎 !
this has got to be a joke. salt water is the best way to cause the leather to dry and crack prematurely.
@@kennethm407 Yes, it is a joke !
@@stevenroche9874 dude I honestly cannot tell anymore with people telling their care/break in "secrets" on UA-cam 😂
8:00 is the truth
Yep, I spent too long thinking I needed to condition the leather all the time!!
Breaking boots is easier in hot weather.
Wear cheap ankle high nylons under wool socks.
You will never get a blister or a hot spot.
I mean condition the leather a couple times a year. Lol
Condition the dam leather
That breaks them within days
Use tons of liquid fiebings mink oil on the flesh side of rhe leather and that deeply gets it going
Boot stretchers? Leather relaxers? Come on. Buy the right size. Wear them sparingly daily, and add more time as you go. Just put them on your feet, folks.
finally reasonable advice. there is so much junk surrounding boots/leather on youtube
@@kennethm407 I appreciate those words. People get silly with this stuff.
You should get all your jeans tapered. I did that solely to show off my boots to the fullest. Your jeans are covering way too much of those cool Americana boots.
Just wear your boots
Amen amen amen
How do I break in my boots?
Easy. Get my mother-in-law wear them for a month. She’s a potato farmer on the Steppes in Ukraine.
Everyone has their own pro tip!
Dont buy nicks. ordered a pair back in April and still waiting on it to be made. Not sure if I need boots to last me 30 years in or if it is even worth 700 dollars. If it doesnt come by week 25, Ill switch to Oak Street boots - same thing, less wait time, fairer price, American made.
I like to cook my boots a sweet steak dinner. Instantly moist, and conditioned.
Make them wet and put them overnight in the FREEZER.