If you ever run into something super-weird, Cane Creek is very accommodating. I had a Haro with a non-standard insertion depth ZS. They hooked me up with the proper cups.
Yes I'd love to see how you take the bottom bracket off. And I'd love to see a side by side comparison and your opinions on the various forks on the Ardor, Boundary and Taff. Thanks for the videos!!
I had to use an impact wrench to remove the BB on an Axum. I've used impacts on tapered BB before. I always triple check to make sure I'm righty-loosey on the drive side before I pull that trigger.
The slight oddities of the Mongoose bikes is one of my biggest hangups in purchasing anything else from them. The frustrations of trying to spec new parts for an OG Dolomite has left me a bit salty towards the brand.
Agreed. I'm mostly enthusiastic about the progress they're making, but this is just... weird. Not too uncommon to have odd sizing, but parts availability is hugely important -- especially in the current economic situation.
@@SonjaTheDork right there with you on the progress. But so long as Pacific keeps hamstringing Mongoose there's really no compelling reason to shop one over a Schwinn; even if the Schwinn runs a premium as it's at least industry compatible. But these with the random odd spec, and the freewheel are quickly falling off the radar for me.
With regard to the problematic B.B. removal, place a hot, wet cloth over the B.B. area of the frame for about twenty seconds first, then remove. This heats up the aluminium frame enough to help expand it, thereby easing the removal process. It helps if the frame is upside-down on the ground and use a large spanner for leverage.
Kev....Quick question sir... Downhill front forks: What Size will fit this Mongoose Ardor...? And can I used sealed bearings? Do they sell sealed bearings for this type of application....?
i just got my ardor and a 44/55 headset and it turns out my ardor is 44/46. verified with caliper. perhaps the factory has changed some things with the latest batch?
Yeah this video is outdated and it’s messing everyone up. The new ones come with 44/56 now. He probably just had the original batch with 55. I wish he made a sticky comment so people don’t keep making this mistake.
So I will eventually be upgrading to a bucklos fork. Will I have to cut the fork? I’m new to the game and trying to learn as I go with the ardor. Glad you made this video bc I was close to buying a zs56.
You might need to cut the fork or add spacers, but most likely cut it. I got the 56 and ordered the 55 just in case, people are saying 56 worked on theirs. This mongoose came out too quick I guess, Quality Control not up to speed
Overtight bottom bracket issues is possibly mixed metals reactions, not extreme torque tightening for assembly. May also be ocean voyage import sea air heat humidity reaction on top of mixed metals. It is an issue, might need independant tests, may need some intervention prevention until the manufacturers address it on their end.
When looking at headset measurements, what do the numbers mean, like 55/40 and so on?i know the zs is "Zero Stack", and that inthis case the"55" is the diameter. Wondering what the "40" is.
hey @kevcentral sorry for all the questions but, what upper would I use with this 55/40 lower ? also what upper would I use for a 56/40? sorry man nooooobaroni
Hey, I installed a Cane Creek bottom bearing ZS44-56mm on my wife's 2021 Women's Al Comp. It fit... I thought? Now I will have to really check it for splitting...
44-55. It seems to be a throwback from GT. I just swapped out the stock Suntour front shock on my GT Verb Sport to a Manitou M30. Same frame as the Mongoose Salvo you have or had.
55 is a common size. It’s just not the same size as the previous Schwinn tapers (or the new Ledge,) but thanks…and like that you appreciate matching items
You will find that many of the older Mongoose use 55mm...If you go to upgrade your Salvo Pro you will find it has a 55mm...and I have a Mongoose Ruddy that also uses 55. I have to assume that maybe when Pacific Cycles got a hold of the brands, they decided to start standardizing...but I can prove that, it's just a theory.
Yes, make a video on the bottom bracket. I've watched a TON of bike video's over the past few days, and recently saw a video of someone saying how hard it is to remove that bottom bracket from certain bike companies. Thanks for your main channel ( and this one ). Once some medical bills are paid, I'm thinking about buying a bike, and would really hope to be able to get one of the walmart bikes that you have shown, specifically the new Mongoose Ledge. Looks perfect for a new rider, and for someone that doesn't have a dedicated mountain bike trail around me, So I wouldn't be trying to take multi-foot jumps. And looks like it's great as a base-bike that can be upgraded over time, if I find that I really like the hobby, and want to spend more money later.
@@kev-reviews I'd like to, but money is a serious consideration, as biking is something me and my wife would want to do together ( we need the exercise ), so thats TWO bikes that need bought. Also, I'm in ohio, and where i'm at is fairly flat, and farm country. Not a whole lot of jumps, and no dedicated biking trails with jumps around here. Some towns around here have biking PATHS, but they are like 90% paved. Mostly, I'd want something that can handle old, bumpy country roads that are too damn narrow, and I can move to the grass, or gravel, or field, to avoid cars. So yeah, I'd need something cheap, to see if it's something my wife and I want continue doing, and get into, without breaking the bank on a hobby that might last only a few months, while also fitting my local enviroment, which is farm country, and not a city that actively plans the city around the use of bikes.
@Thomas The Offroad Train Im used to riding more expensive mountain bikes. The 2 things that would really make this bike perform are a decent fork and wheel set. Serious weight loss too. But I agree its a good starter bike and great for upgrades.
Jessica! No damn way I'm supporting FUNN. Affiliate to Trek i believe. I hate the company! It's a conglomerate company that doesn't allow some brands to thrive!
I’ve never seen any Funn products on a factory Trek. Their business address is on the other side of the country and they sponsor riders that don’t ride Trek. FUD
I have a haro double peak sport with caged bearings in the head tube. I'd really like to use sealed bearings if I could. Is there a way to change it to sealed?
I doubt it was intentional. I'm sure 99.8% of these bikes sold will never have the fork changed, let alone upgraded. The supplier/factory probably just worked a deal to get whatever was cheapest.
Mongoose doesn't make or do anything other than market and make arraignments for getting it from xyz to Walmart. The factory house engineers likely did this, someone at mongoose didnt notice this or they dont care.
Headsets are always weird to deal with and stuff like this makes it worse, im figuring out all the parts and sizing for my next bike and it uses a 44mm head tube with an EC44 lower cup and a ZS44/28.6 upper, and since my forks straight steerer i gotta put a weird Hope ZS44/28.6 headset in the bottom. Its one of those things im always scared im gonna mess up😂
@@earnestp.worrell5389 I know, i had a badass mongoose BMX bike in the early 80s. Redline's and Haro were also awesome. Mongoose website have some nice looking bikes although they all look like they're a couple years old and are all out of stock with the exception of a couple.
Hello KevReviews and anyone else that may have some helpful infor for me. I'm about to pull the trigger on the Schwinn Axum DP bike, I've owned a couple canannondales and mongoose mtb in the past but ive never added mods to any of them just rode them as they came. The Mongose XP Pro was a big disappointment imo horrible brakes etc who knows maybe i could of upgreaded the brake pads instead of selling the bike off. So my big question is I want to upgrade the Schwinn Axum DP as soon as i get my hands on it and one of the upgrades I'd like to do is a longer crank set. I noticed on amazon and ebay i can find 175mm but not much in the area or 180mm or 190mm is there a reason for this or am i barking up the wrong tree should the numbers by off set say like when it comes to disc brakes ( i noticed this on my own) the size jumps from 190mm to 203mm which I plan on upgraded as well. So to be clear I'd like to change my crank set to 180mm or 190mm maybe something close to these specs but im finding the options very very limited and expensive any help would be great. BTW I subscribed and enjoy watching your videos keep up the good work....
Can I use the original lower bearing on the 1.5 taper tube? I ordered a 1.5 crown race and plan on using the original headset minus the 1.5 to 1 1/8 adapter piece.
I bought two. This one...www.amazon.com/dp/B00GW3X088/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_0V0G6S07DQWW9HA2D154?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 And this one... www.amazon.com/dp/B08J422P7X/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_216HW17Z5WZNGJBR079Y?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
And yes, between the sloppy enamel and the clear coat you can get to .5 mm thick. Multiply by 2 and you lose a full mm of internal diameter. They use a "zs55" which is not a real standard to compensate for sloppy manufacturing tolerances.
If it were just sloppy mfg the outer headtube diameter wouldn’t be the same 1mm smaller diameter. 55mm is also a commonly made size. It still seems to me that it would cost more to have 2 sizes, but who knows why this one is unique among the Schwinn/Goose tapered bikes
@@taumax sorry misunderstood. 138mm sounds like a factory issue, you can for sure stick a 135mm wheel there and pinch it. But it is not ideal, and will take more time than just dropping in the wheel and tightening QR. All my years cycling I never head of regular 138mm hubs, maybe only on hub driven motors. So I guess pinching 135mm wheel is the only way
to me, bikes don't get real until they get thru axles. So much easier to work with, much stiffer hubs, wider spacing for better bracing angles, MUCH better wheel upgrades. really turns a starter bike into a potential forever bike.
Anything is better than bolt on. Ive been mtbing for 30 years and still have qr on some bikes. Honestly dont notice huge difference from thruaxle. I go pretty fast on both.
Be careful with wheel spacing on Mongoose bikes. I had a Ripsaw and that had 150 rear and 110 front both qr. I ditched it because there were no wheel options for it.
@@kev-reviews I mistakenly thought it was boost and bought a wheelset based on that. Boy was I wrong. I got it for $300, upgraded it to 1x11 with NX, used hydro brakes, bars, seat post, pedals and was at just under $600. My overall goal was having a 29er wheel option but that funky spacing as well as it's weight wrote it off. It's stock wheels weren't bad but with a 50mm, non tubeless rim they left me with very few tire options.
My thoughts exactly on both those bikes, there's not much that usable on either bike, other than the frame and a couple pieces of Hardware here and there. You're looking at well over a grand to bring those bikes up to par.
Both of you gentlemen are missing the entire point of KevCentral and this channel. They exist for those looking to wet their feet in trail biking and not for those who are willing to dump hundreds of dollars on something they may never use more than once or twice. The bikes are priced low enough that you wouldn’t spend too much initially, but could upgrade if you decided to do so as you progressed as a rider.
It’s a good route for beginners, start off with the stock bike, then start upgrading parts as you become a better rider. And not everyone can afford a $900 and up bike
That's why I haven't been a fan of the whole, tapered head tube and tapered steerer tube trend. I wish they would make things more standardized not less, cut down on the trial-and-error.
I dustry should have standardized the straight 1.5" headtube. You can run any possible fork with that size, plus more surface area for welding means stronger headtube area.
The only thing Craftsman tools makes that is worth the buy is socket sets and wrenches. All of their battery powered tools are garbage. I had a whole tool kit of Craftsman battery powered tools. The batteries are garbage. I ordered extra batteries and they all failed after a handful of uses. If you want battery powered tools that are worth the money and will last for years, go with Makita. Makita is far more expensive, but you get what you payed for. Trust me. Plus Makitas rapid charger for its batteries charges the 3 amp batteries in 12 minutes. Which is great when your on site and need to get things done. Seriously, don't buy craftsman battery powered tools. Makita is the way to go.
@@kev-reviews I posted a video on my UA-cam channel with my leg looks like under motorized bike Willard Buchanan we don't know what the outcome of my leg is going to be after they do send you X-rays and find out if I can walk again with when they take the Staples out there going to unlock the brace
@@kev-reviews it was the bike I posted on the year parade channel came in like number 14 I was riding that bike with the motor on it memorial weekend and it's set up from underneath me and I put my foot down to stop the fall and my leg shattered and then broke it in two places metal plate with screws in a rod in my leg
If you ever run into something super-weird, Cane Creek is very accommodating. I had a Haro with a non-standard insertion depth ZS. They hooked me up with the proper cups.
Can confirm it. Great experience with Cane Creek
Yep they can sort it out
Yup same here got the hellbender set up on my canyon neuron 5
Yes I'd love to see how you take the bottom bracket off. And I'd love to see a side by side comparison and your opinions on the various forks on the Ardor, Boundary and Taff. Thanks for the videos!!
Another Kev central channel my day just got better
I wonder if this bike came from a different factory? So odd that they would change things like this.
I had to use an impact wrench to remove the BB on an Axum. I've used impacts on tapered BB before. I always triple check to make sure I'm righty-loosey on the drive side before I pull that trigger.
Why did they use a 27.2 seat post and not a 30/31? Still not bad for the $$$.
Smaller Seat post = more flex= more comfort
Better
Excited for the women's Al comp build as I would like to upgrade it as well.
The slight oddities of the Mongoose bikes is one of my biggest hangups in purchasing anything else from them. The frustrations of trying to spec new parts for an OG Dolomite has left me a bit salty towards the brand.
Agreed. I'm mostly enthusiastic about the progress they're making, but this is just... weird. Not too uncommon to have odd sizing, but parts availability is hugely important -- especially in the current economic situation.
@@SonjaTheDork right there with you on the progress. But so long as Pacific keeps hamstringing Mongoose there's really no compelling reason to shop one over a Schwinn; even if the Schwinn runs a premium as it's at least industry compatible. But these with the random odd spec, and the freewheel are quickly falling off the radar for me.
Great video! Yes, please make a video to get the bottom bracket cup out!
I think a video on how you take ababa off the Schwinn bikes would be really cool!
With regard to the problematic B.B. removal, place a hot, wet cloth over the B.B. area of the frame for about twenty seconds first, then remove. This heats up the aluminium frame enough to help expand it, thereby easing the removal process.
It helps if the frame is upside-down on the ground and use a large spanner for leverage.
I've heard of putting your bottom bracket in the freezer before you install it
Kev I think they are using air impact wrench to tighten it down because air is higher than battery if I’m not mistaken
Kev....Quick question sir...
Downhill front forks: What Size will fit this Mongoose Ardor...? And can I used sealed bearings? Do they sell sealed bearings for this type of application....?
WOOT thanks for the mention! lol
Sorry if this has been asked but what aluminum spec is the ardor? 7075 or 6061?
i just got my ardor and a 44/55 headset and it turns out my ardor is 44/46. verified with caliper. perhaps the factory has changed some things with the latest batch?
Same :/
Yeah this video is outdated and it’s messing everyone up. The new ones come with 44/56 now. He probably just had the original batch with 55. I wish he made a sticky comment so people don’t keep making this mistake.
Mine is also 56mm
So I will eventually be upgrading to a bucklos fork. Will I have to cut the fork? I’m new to the game and trying to learn as I go with the ardor. Glad you made this video bc I was close to buying a zs56.
You might need to cut the fork or add spacers, but most likely cut it. I got the 56 and ordered the 55 just in case, people are saying 56 worked on theirs.
This mongoose came out too quick I guess, Quality Control not up to speed
You will have to cut the headtube
Thanks! I Have to see how much ill have to chop off now
So many new videos. So happy
Overtight bottom bracket issues is possibly mixed metals reactions, not extreme torque tightening for assembly. May also be ocean voyage import sea air heat humidity reaction on top of mixed metals. It is an issue, might need independant tests, may need some intervention prevention until the manufacturers address it on their end.
Bring it on. This is BIG news in the bike world.
So now we have to wait for the new Hyper and have an ultimate shootout 😄. Hopefully the new Hyper comes out this year!
What calipers did you use in this video 📹?
I don't know much about these bikes but the plastic top cover cracked for the headtube, do you know where I can find parts?
Would love to see you working on the bottom bracket.
So a headset would be a 40/55 internal?
44/55
@@MTBAlex nah man, the headset is zs55/40, 44 is the inner diameter of a straight headtube...like in steel frames.
Thi
When looking at headset measurements, what do the numbers mean, like 55/40 and so on?i know the zs is "Zero Stack", and that inthis case the"55" is the diameter. Wondering what the "40" is.
The zs56 lower cup went in mine without any problems.
Did it slide in and stay naturally or were you hammering the thing in?
@@SekritKomrade used the standard headset cup press. no extra pressure required.
@@dblt1726 Well in my eyes it looks like his aint honed...normally bikes are. Was yours free from paint inside?
@@gryyta9617 correct - no paint inside.
@@dblt1726 Look closely, i think his has paint inside, which means no honing has been done...cost cutting deluxe
I can confirm that the drive-side BB cup on my Ledge X2 was nearly impossible to remove
So what could be a practical reason or explanation for doing this? It doesn't make sense to mess with the market like that.
hey @kevcentral
sorry for all the questions but, what upper would I use with this 55/40 lower ?
also what upper would I use for a 56/40? sorry man nooooobaroni
My 2018 Merida one twenty used a 55, not a 56. Stuffed me up on the day too.
Do the bottom bracket video. I was working no mine and the drive side is stuck in good, couldn't get it out
Hey, I installed a Cane Creek bottom bearing ZS44-56mm on my wife's 2021 Women's Al Comp. It fit... I thought? Now I will have to really check it for splitting...
Note that I was referring to the outer diameter measurement being the same Ardor-Wcomp. I’ll be adding the fork to that bike soon to see
While the Wcomp outer diameter is smaller, it does in fact use the 56mm lower cup as you mentioned. The ardor, however, is 1mm smaller internally 🤷♂️
Yes, Please. Would love to see any/all teardown. Also, any known Headsets that would work with Ardor would be appreciated.
What is the top cup size for the ledge? I heard you say the bottom is 56/40. Thanks
44-55. It seems to be a throwback from GT. I just swapped out the stock Suntour front shock on my GT Verb Sport to a Manitou M30. Same frame as the Mongoose Salvo you have or had.
Jessica headsets on Amazon have a 55mm option. And match your favorite ace kit bars
55 is a common size. It’s just not the same size as the previous Schwinn tapers (or the new Ledge,) but thanks…and like that you appreciate matching items
Like I had said in a different video someplace..they are using a 800 lb silverback gorilla to tighten the bottom bracket..
Do you have any info on if either of these will be back in stock anytime soon?
Frames look so much nicer but I assume they haven't fixed their weight problems.
Can you make a video on the tools you made to remove your fork on the schwinn’s
Hex wrenches is all that’s needed
2 videos in one day wow!
You will find that many of the older Mongoose use 55mm...If you go to upgrade your Salvo Pro you will find it has a 55mm...and I have a Mongoose Ruddy that also uses 55. I have to assume that maybe when Pacific Cycles got a hold of the brands, they decided to start standardizing...but I can prove that, it's just a theory.
Yes, make a video on the bottom bracket. I've watched a TON of bike video's over the past few days, and recently saw a video of someone saying how hard it is to remove that bottom bracket from certain bike companies.
Thanks for your main channel ( and this one ). Once some medical bills are paid, I'm thinking about buying a bike, and would really hope to be able to get one of the walmart bikes that you have shown, specifically the new Mongoose Ledge. Looks perfect for a new rider, and for someone that doesn't have a dedicated mountain bike trail around me, So I wouldn't be trying to take multi-foot jumps. And looks like it's great as a base-bike that can be upgraded over time, if I find that I really like the hobby, and want to spend more money later.
Thanks. Note: if you plan on taking jumps and can save up, buy a bike that’s prebuilt to handle it
@@kev-reviews I'd like to, but money is a serious consideration, as biking is something me and my wife would want to do together ( we need the exercise ), so thats TWO bikes that need bought.
Also, I'm in ohio, and where i'm at is fairly flat, and farm country. Not a whole lot of jumps, and no dedicated biking trails with jumps around here. Some towns around here have biking PATHS, but they are like 90% paved.
Mostly, I'd want something that can handle old, bumpy country roads that are too damn narrow, and I can move to the grass, or gravel, or field, to avoid cars.
So yeah, I'd need something cheap, to see if it's something my wife and I want continue doing, and get into, without breaking the bank on a hobby that might last only a few months, while also fitting my local enviroment, which is farm country, and not a city that actively plans the city around the use of bikes.
So I am planning on doing my own project pretty soon and I don't know what upper and lower headset to get, is it possible you can link me one?
Check out my Ardor experimental video on KevCentral
Too bad you cant just buy the frame. Then all your money would go to upgrades.
Most good frames start's at $300 anyways, still not a bad deal.
@Thomas The Offroad Train Im used to riding more expensive mountain bikes. The 2 things that would really make this bike perform are a decent fork and wheel set. Serious weight loss too. But I agree its a good starter bike and great for upgrades.
When I first saw the video thought it had a faper glad to see it’s a real taper
Ha! Thankfully, it’s legit - just a different size for some reason
A wheel cylinder hone on a drill for 2 mins will fix this issue 😉👍
EDIT: Disregard this, 55mm cups are plentiful on Amazon 😂
Warranty killer😂
I see the drywall taping was started...
Yes, please share video of taking off BB
I had to use my 1/2" drive 18volt impact wrench to remove the bottom bracket on mine.
Ha! Just released a video on this exact topic
Can you review some vitus or decathlon bikes
That is so strange? Why would they do this?
Will you be getting your hands on any Polygon Bikes?
I’ve reviewed a couple of them so far
Jessica! No damn way I'm supporting FUNN. Affiliate to Trek i believe. I hate the company! It's a conglomerate company that doesn't allow some brands to thrive!
I’ve never seen any Funn products on a factory Trek. Their business address is on the other side of the country and they sponsor riders that don’t ride Trek. FUD
I have a haro double peak sport with caged bearings in the head tube. I'd really like to use sealed bearings if I could. Is there a way to change it to sealed?
www.hopetech.com/products/controls/headsets/pick%E2%80%99n%E2%80%99mix-headsets/
They're in the bike business. They're purposely making this frame difficult to upgrade. IMO Buy nice or buy twice.
I doubt it was intentional. I'm sure 99.8% of these bikes sold will never have the fork changed, let alone upgraded. The supplier/factory probably just worked a deal to get whatever was cheapest.
Apparently 55mm cups are a thing. Plenty of listings from Cane Creek and Funn MTB on amazon.
@@simrigpc27b12 I know Scott had some models with them.
Make a video about removing the bottom bracket!!!
Mongoose doesn't make or do anything other than market and make arraignments for getting it from xyz to Walmart. The factory house engineers likely did this, someone at mongoose didnt notice this or they dont care.
Where can I find a decent hardtail for around $500 that isn’t sold out?
Schwinn Axum - Is Walmart online.
Is or the GT from Dick's sporting goods
Headsets are always weird to deal with and stuff like this makes it worse, im figuring out all the parts and sizing for my next bike and it uses a 44mm head tube with an EC44 lower cup and a ZS44/28.6 upper, and since my forks straight steerer i gotta put a weird Hope ZS44/28.6 headset in the bottom. Its one of those things im always scared im gonna mess up😂
There's that bigbox bike quality screwing things up again. Thanks Mongoose, ya chuckleheads.
They were making nicer frames 6,7,8 years ago.
@@mjsmjs7905 Mongoose used to be the shiznitz. Started real good ended kinda meh.
@@earnestp.worrell5389 I know, i had a badass mongoose BMX bike in the early 80s. Redline's and Haro were also awesome. Mongoose website have some nice looking bikes although they all look like they're a couple years old and are all out of stock with the exception of a couple.
Hello KevReviews and anyone else that may have some helpful infor for me. I'm about to pull the trigger on the Schwinn Axum DP bike, I've owned a couple canannondales and mongoose mtb in the past but ive never added mods to any of them just rode them as they came. The Mongose XP Pro was a big disappointment imo horrible brakes etc who knows maybe i could of upgreaded the brake pads instead of selling the bike off. So my big question is I want to upgrade the Schwinn Axum DP as soon as i get my hands on it and one of the upgrades I'd like to do is a longer crank set. I noticed on amazon and ebay i can find 175mm but not much in the area or 180mm or 190mm is there a reason for this or am i barking up the wrong tree should the numbers by off set say like when it comes to disc brakes ( i noticed this on my own) the size jumps from 190mm to 203mm which I plan on upgraded as well. So to be clear I'd like to change my crank set to 180mm or 190mm maybe something close to these specs but im finding the options very very limited and expensive any help would be great.
BTW I subscribed and enjoy watching your videos keep up the good work....
Can I use the original lower bearing on the 1.5 taper tube? I ordered a 1.5 crown race and plan on using the original headset minus the 1.5 to 1 1/8 adapter piece.
What race did you buy?
I bought two. This one...www.amazon.com/dp/B00GW3X088/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_0V0G6S07DQWW9HA2D154?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
And this one...
www.amazon.com/dp/B08J422P7X/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_216HW17Z5WZNGJBR079Y?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Wasn't sure which one would mate up to the bearing the best.
New subscription. Hi kev 😀
👍🏼
Will that take a standard/thru-axle hubs?
This frame isn’t designed for thru axel at the rear. It will work with a standard QR
It's most likely just paint that was sprayed inside instead of being masked off properly. Take sand paper to it.
And yes, between the sloppy enamel and the clear coat you can get to .5 mm thick. Multiply by 2 and you lose a full mm of internal diameter. They use a "zs55" which is not a real standard to compensate for sloppy manufacturing tolerances.
If it were just sloppy mfg the outer headtube diameter wouldn’t be the same 1mm smaller diameter. 55mm is also a commonly made size. It still seems to me that it would cost more to have 2 sizes, but who knows why this one is unique among the Schwinn/Goose tapered bikes
You can't ream out the head tube 1mm?
Would cost more than the bike is worth I imagine unless you own the tools and can perform the labor yourself.
Think of all the money they save in manufacturing with that extra mm less.
Great info!! It's so bizzard one company, 2 new bikes, 2 different internal lower cup size...
thanks @kev
How hard is it to find a rear wheel qr to fit that?
Finding one that fits 2.6 tires properly and is 135 QR is though ans les me to the local bike shop looking
try looking up dtswiss 135 hubs, I believe they have a few options.
Newb question. So what does one do for the non standard spacing of the ardor?
ZS55/40 is commonly used so it is not non-standard. I am pretty sure cane creek has ZS55 cups, but you can definitely find them elsewhere too
@@mstvir I was asking about the non standard rear drop out spacing.
@@taumax sorry misunderstood.
138mm sounds like a factory issue, you can for sure stick a 135mm wheel there and pinch it. But it is not ideal, and will take more time than just dropping in the wheel and tightening QR.
All my years cycling I never head of regular 138mm hubs, maybe only on hub driven motors.
So I guess pinching 135mm wheel is the only way
It’s a standard 135 hub. Just a bit wider spaced at the dropouts for some reason
@@kev-reviews so it sounds like a manufacturing issue? So basically the dropouts get pinched together the bolts get tightened?
to me, bikes don't get real until they get thru axles. So much easier to work with, much stiffer hubs, wider spacing for better bracing angles, MUCH better wheel upgrades. really turns a starter bike into a potential forever bike.
Anything is better than bolt on. Ive been mtbing for 30 years and still have qr on some bikes. Honestly dont notice huge difference from thruaxle. I go pretty fast on both.
ZS55, why bother with standards lol. (Same as Scott and Lapierre though if that bit of info helps anyone).
Too bad the headtube inner diameter is a funny size and they are not standardizing such things. Complicates upgrading
Be careful with wheel spacing on Mongoose bikes. I had a Ripsaw and that had 150 rear and 110 front both qr. I ditched it because there were no wheel options for it.
😳
@@kev-reviews I mistakenly thought it was boost and bought a wheelset based on that. Boy was I wrong. I got it for $300, upgraded it to 1x11 with NX, used hydro brakes, bars, seat post, pedals and was at just under $600. My overall goal was having a 29er wheel option but that funky spacing as well as it's weight wrote it off. It's stock wheels weren't bad but with a 50mm, non tubeless rim they left me with very few tire options.
Strange and spooky
I don't think calipering is a word lol 😆
Too much work. Maybe its better to buy a bike with all the right components installed already. Polygon seems to be good value for price.
Not really, it's easy and you do whatever parts you want it...
Vitus has better value
My thoughts exactly on both those bikes, there's not much that usable on either bike, other than the frame and a couple pieces of Hardware here and there. You're looking at well over a grand to bring those bikes up to par.
Both of you gentlemen are missing the entire point of KevCentral and this channel. They exist for those looking to wet their feet in trail biking and not for those who are willing to dump hundreds of dollars on something they may never use more than once or twice. The bikes are priced low enough that you wouldn’t spend too much initially, but could upgrade if you decided to do so as you progressed as a rider.
It’s a good route for beginners, start off with the stock bike, then start upgrading parts as you become a better rider. And not everyone can afford a $900 and up bike
Hello
soooo...uhhhh.... does anyone even make a 55/40??
That's why I haven't been a fan of the whole, tapered head tube and tapered steerer tube trend. I wish they would make things more standardized not less, cut down on the trial-and-error.
It,s all a hype ! I never seen a straight steer break or malfunction bearing,s ! But it does look cool !
@@paulmichaud1246 I've heard people say that they're more stable but, I'm with you on this one. All kinds of new weird things coming out these days.
I dustry should have standardized the straight 1.5" headtube. You can run any possible fork with that size, plus more surface area for welding means stronger headtube area.
New bike reviews with 0 bikes in stock, sigh…
They sold out rapidly
That's pretty whack, but I'm not surprised.
its aluminum, its soft... just press that shit in there...
The only thing Craftsman tools makes that is worth the buy is socket sets and wrenches. All of their battery powered tools are garbage. I had a whole tool kit of Craftsman battery powered tools. The batteries are garbage. I ordered extra batteries and they all failed after a handful of uses. If you want battery powered tools that are worth the money and will last for years, go with Makita. Makita is far more expensive, but you get what you payed for. Trust me. Plus Makitas rapid charger for its batteries charges the 3 amp batteries in 12 minutes. Which is great when your on site and need to get things done. Seriously, don't buy craftsman battery powered tools. Makita is the way to go.
Today's cycling industry is based on planned obsolescence and constantly changing standards (27.5 anyone?)
Somehow I got knocked off your subscribe
😳
@@kev-reviews I posted a video on my UA-cam channel with my leg looks like under motorized bike Willard Buchanan we don't know what the outcome of my leg is going to be after they do send you X-rays and find out if I can walk again with when they take the Staples out there going to unlock the brace
@@kev-reviews it was the bike I posted on the year parade channel came in like number 14 I was riding that bike with the motor on it memorial weekend and it's set up from underneath me and I put my foot down to stop the fall and my leg shattered and then broke it in two places metal plate with screws in a rod in my leg
Not sure I want to see it. Is it gross?
I remember you saying that. Sad. Hopefully it will heal this time