I have the same lithium-ion jumper pack and I love it. I've had for about 3 months and used it a few times. I live in Chicago, so it gets pretty cold here. I noticed it works best the closer it is to 70 degrees. It was 5 degrees last week and my car wouldn't start with the pack connected, so I put the pack inside my jacket, sat inside the car for 15 minutes, and let my body heat warm up the pack. I tried it again and car started right up.
Bernardo Cisneros Thanks for saying that. I'm trying to decide what brand of small Lithium jump start battery to purchase and this is a meaningful comment to me. The test really didn't help.
A useful observation! That could save someone's bacon! Hey, if you wore a bigger coat you could just do that with the car battery! More seriously the little packs can more easily taken inside in really cold weather. I've even taken them into restaurants, work, libraries and coffee shops in sub zero weather as I usually have a backpack anyway, to carry stuff. I've charged it in some places too. Of course bringing it in at home, overnight is the main thing, at least when it's double digits below zero... normally I don't.
I’ve used a jump n carry as a car battery before. We were reviving a Toyota. It was a small 4 banger but the jump pack was the only battery connected. We cranked and crank and started that thing a dozen times or more. I was really impressed with the jump pack but since it’s pretty much a car battery with jumper cables attached it’s makes sense why it would be able to do it.
I think the cold lithium pack needs to be taken inside, warmed to room temperature, charged overnight, and retested. That would rule out any failure of the battery pack itself.
It won't discharge or charge at all at the temperature it was cold soaked to. Just letting it warm up above freezing or even above 0°F should get it where it works as well as the other.
I was a friends house while he was working on an older ford dump (diesel). Batteries were dead, so he pulled out a Lithium Ion Jump Starter and Power Pack. that he got form Harbor Freight. Never hesitated... I bought one and use it when I go to bush-hog. My tractor is only cranked these days when I go to bushhog! Never fails bust-off that little diesel. I use mostly for the tractor, but I keep it in my wife's truck to make sure she doesn't get stranded. I also bought a Viking 1700 with the aux compressor. Got tire of flat lawnmower tires. The KOT's Meow. I have a 12' enclosed trailer that I keep my Hustler 52 in, and that's where the V17c resides. Along with tools. I call it my Mobile Storage. heh-heh-heh
I had one of those JNC770R packs. Lasted under one month and only two jumps. They wanted close to $70 for round trip shipping for a warranty replacement so I chucked it and got a cheapo lead acid jump pack from harbor freight. Four years later, the HF pack is still working well on its original battery.
For anyone interested if you pick up a used/broken or have a non working JNC unit it's super easy to replace to sealed batteries inside with the same quality branded cells with the same or higher capacity, they are relatively cheap on Amazon/specialty battery wholesale sites/eBay/etc. That's the only downside to the Harborfreight jump packs is inconsistent battery quality (and copper coated aluminum wire leads, not pure copper) you can also upgrade or replace the cells in those units too, but it's really not worth it vs. the original price... Just hope you get a good one lol 🙏🏼
@@berryreading4809 the red 770r is what I use for aaa roadside full time. They do the job.i keep it in the cabin floorboard with the heater running and charging as I go on calls in the winter.
@@truckdriver8416 They cost more for a reason! The leads are 100% copper with UV resistant rated sheathing, the cells are name branded and capacity tested before being put into a new unit, plus the clamps have better springs, better teeth geometry instead of just junk chrome and copper plating like on cheaper units... (the same ones that use copper coated aluminum leads and randomly batch tested sealed batteries) If your job requires a quality jump pack I'd buy JNC, if I was messing around the house with some non essential stuff with multiple jump options I can see the appeal of a cheaper unit harbor freight or otherwise... I've recently been trying out a couple of Schumacher li-ion jump pacs (real ones, not the mini capacitor style, although they are kind of a hybrid between the two styles honestly) with great results 👍 it's the Schumacher li-ion 1200 w/compressor great compact unit for most vehicles, but it's Achilles heel is having an onboard battery power only compressor (without modification 😉) and a horrendously slow charge time via micro-usb... but it's a perfect all in one unit for less prepared family members since the li-ion battery stays charged quite well, it has a usable compressor for up to crossover/stock SUV tires and is very compact and idiot proof... Definitely not a pro tool, but I keep one in my small run around truck and bought one for a family member, luckily this was back before the price went up over $65 😡 or I would've supplied more for gifts over the last year 😒
@@berryreading4809 when using your ion battery jump starter, instead of using the USB to recharge it back up after a jump start, why don't you try leaving it connected to the jumped vehicle as it runs and charges through the alternator for about three or four minutes and see if it fully charges back up that way and replaces the little bit of power you pulled from it to crank the dead battery. That's what I do when I jump with the 770r now. I don't disconnect the jumper box right away once I crank the car I let it recharge up and replace the battery power that I just pulled out of the jump box with the car's alternator recharging it for me.
@@truckdriver8416 That's another downside of it being similar to one of those glovebox li-ion boosters 😠 First on a completely disconnected or dead battery it has a timed relay that cycles power off/on for several seconds before reseting and cycling full power again (even though it has a large enough battery, not just a big capacitor 🙄) that's not a deal breaker and I have run equipment with just the pack, but can't remember if it was dumb equipment or had an ecu 🤔 anyway the circuitry also disconnects that relay after a start and if the alternator is working it won't reconnect after sensing voltage input (that might be the entire reason they decided to make it cycle like that, one bad alternator putting out 16v+ could fry that thing!, 24v might turn it into a handheld campfire 🤣) li-ion chemistry is definitely pros and cons! I try not to keep any of my tool batteries inside my house unless I'm there and it's all Dewalt or Milwaukee lol, even in my utility bed truck I try my best not to leave any in the cab overnight! (although I usually break that rule) BTW my "real" super duty jump pack/12v power pack is a home depot rigid brand toolbox that perfectly fits two 850 CA (680cca) 200min reserve capacity marine cranking batteries with some 00 cables used to make it 12v or 24v, a short set of 2g cables on the terminals is made up to a Anderson plug that fits my winch, large 120v power inverter, two sets of jumper cables I added them to, and can even plug directly into of any of my trucks since they are setup for easy jumping or winch swapping without opening the hood 😉 that box will also start some fairly large 24v excavators or other equipment that were left on/went dead over a few weeks... Only downside is a 150lbish jump pack isn't ideal for moving around very far by yourself 🤣 funny enough I actually have a little less invested (about $350 if i had to buy everything new instead of using what i already had, the box,cables,anderson plugs)in that than a high end JNC 12/24v model! (But those don't weigh as much 😆) BTW the 2AWG "HYCLAT" anderson style plug connectors from Amazon are super useful for all types of setups 👍 btw if you aren't familiar anderson connectors are DC one way connectors like what you've probably seen on battery powered forklifts and maybe on your service tuck! I've noticed more and more roadside/state/fleet/service/utility trucks and equipment with external anderson plugs for easy quick jump starting, especially on utility companies that mainly work up North lol 🥶
If you tried to start it a few more times, it might start. The LiPo cells need to be warmed up. Starting it a few times cold warms it up really quickly, and you should be able to crank it over by then.
I think cold weather testing of batteries and jump starters are always the best test . The equipment and vehicle should be same cold temperature zero or below then run the test . Likes that a lot .
I have never tired a little one. Convenient size and if the work, it's a good first step. I recently borrowed a friends bigger one rather than running 100' extension cord with the charger. It was snowed in so I couldn't easily get a car into the back 40. The bigger pack worked hard but after many tries it succeeded. I could see having a small one for quick try, especially since the Lithium probably recharges faster than the big ones.
I've got a lithium one.. They charge for a few hours and they're at 100%. Some wont attempt to jump if they don't see at least 10v on the battery... Mine is like that. It does the thing though on a 5.4L. I've got a second one coming that doesn't have that limitation and should be able to spin my motor easily. They're more for jumping batteries that are almost there, and just a little low vs. a completely dead battery. Handy to have. When I jumped my expedition with the one I have, I ordered a second one for my other vehicle... What he's seeing with the COLD pack is accurate. The lithium cells DONT like cold weather. Heating em up to 30-40F would be ideal. Mine will do it in the cold, but it takes a few tries to get that big amp pull to warm up the unit.
The problem with battery jumpers is that you might carry it in your car for months or years before you need to use it. If you don't charge it up on a regular schedule it might fail when you need it. That's why I am a fan of the capacitor type jumpers.
If you don't care about trunkability, you could also get a small lead acid battery light enough to lift on your own, and carry it in a milk crate or similar. Or a battery with a handle on it, like many now have. Set of good jumper cables and you have yourself a portable jump pack. Keep it on a maintenance charger and it should give years of service.
@@musicalhistory4392 Not necessarily, A jumper pack is basically just an all in one unit with a small 12V battery, built in cables and a handle. You can make your own at home with just a car battery and jumper cables. A deep cycle battery is probably better for this application since they’re designed to be drained constantly. To be honest I prefer this crude battery and jumper cable method, most new jumpers have all these safety nannies that get in the way of starting a dead car. A regular deep cycle car battery has more cranking amps than any standard jumper pack on the market.
The classic method used long before jump packs existed is mounting a full-sized lead-acid battery to a hand truck then attaching a set of heavy jumper cables to it by cutting off the alligator clips and using standard copper lugs to connect to post-style (I convert every side terminal battery vehicle I own to post style batteries. They're great for around the shop and of course you can parallel a jump pack or other battery for difficult starts.
I'm not sure if you know or not! But when you disconnect the battery from a vehicle, it can erase the transmission codes. Causing the transmission to act up. I'm very impressed that little lithium battery started the truck. Thank you for sharing
As Naomi mentioned the transmission was doing some weird stuff where it was shifting into 5th even while just barely moving. I shut off the truck, started again, and then everything seemed to work again. Is there anything special I need to do to restore the transmission codes? Seems silly that disconnecting a battery would mess with a vehicle's transmission.
@@BenjaminSahlstrom Yes there is Naomi! You need to look into a manual for whatever vehicle you're working on, I had a Chrysler LeBaron i had to run 1st gear up to 2000 RPM then shift up 2nd gear and then 3rd gear and then let it go into overdrive. By that time i was hitting about 90 miles an hour, or more. Had to do that several times, like I said you have to look in a manual find out what you'll need to do for the vehicle you're working on. Thank you for your response, i hope I gave you some good advice you can use.
@@classic287 Did the same thing on our 2009 Honda CRV, had to reset the radio with a code when I changed the battery. Part of the anti theft system in the cars radio.
I appreciate you testing in true cold conditions since this is typically when batteries fail and which normally reduces the performance of the jump starters. As another comment listed, I think the best choice is an ultra capacitor version, because the cold doesn’t impact its performance and generally you can use the weak battery to pre-charge it… better yet you can get a hybrid which has the lithium battery combined with the caps and the lithium battery gives you another option to pre-charge the capacitors.
Lithium batteries have the advantage of holding a charge for a long long time, but they struggle in cold weather. Lead acid batteries do well in the cold, but they have to either me recharged frequently or kept on a battery tender.
Wire resistance is proportional to length. Shorter cables can get away with being lighter gauge. For the same amount of current longer cables need to be heavier gauge.
The only benefit I ever got from a lead acid jump pack is dead weight in my car for the winter. The couple I owned wouldn't start anything, even if the battery in the vehicle was just low and not dead. I bought a Li-Ion jump pack and it has started everything I've thrown at it, multiple times too without needing to recharge right away. Even our '87 Winnebago with a beefy carbed 454 in 30 degree weather just cranked cranked over like it was sunny and 75. More power to anyone that still uses old and aging acid batteries to jump start something, but I'll stick with the Li-Ion jump pack.
Thanks for the video! I'll just add a note to be careful with *some* battery-charger/starters when hooking them up without a battery installed. Really high amp charger/starters push out the high amperage by increasing the output volts. The battery acts as a energy sink and will then absorb the amps pulling down the volts to near ~14v even though the charger/starter may be trying to push out, perhaps 18-22 volts. The (dead) installed battery protects the vehicles electrical system from the too-high voltage. By removing the battery and hooking up such a high amp charger/starter, the vehicles electrical system see the high voltage and could damage some components. Check the output of volts of a charger starter before hooking it up to a vehicle without a battery.
That is 100 % correct , I have NOCO GB 500 its massive power output . Output volts on Bypass mode is 16 approx. Volts and on Regular smart mode 14.5 Volts , so be careful .
@@radiotvshop oh ok so NOCO has that safety bypass mode so that you can jump a battery that is completely dead at 0 volts? I noticed that option on the HULKMAN 85S and didn’t know which other units had it. Unfortunately I found this out too late and bought an SP Tools jumper, didn’t arrive yet but I think that it doesn’t have the option. To me it makes no sense to buy one without that option if there are models that have the option.
What is the lifetime of the units? I find that they only have a 100% lifetime on average of 18 months for the lead acid unit which I prefer, but the cost of a replacement battery to be prohibited because it is about 3/4 the cost of a new jumper. If you find it on sale off season, ( which happens every other time since I have it working 100% all the time). I am left with a choice of saving a small amount of money and have a beaten up looking unit (which is what I have) and none of the new bells and whistles, like USB ports. Why are these replacement batteries so expensive?
These things are cool and work great when they’re new but it’s a question of reliability. How do they hold up after a couple years in your trunk getting charged periodically? I’ve had two and they both went bad after a year or so and I looked after mine pretty well. Similar climate to yours here in Canada. I’m just not convinced. I still rely on my jnc 770
I've had a DBPower 800A lithium jumper for 3 years. It always seen constant use, and it never failed on me. It did fail on me one time but it was my fault complete, I had accidentally left it on my car seat with direct sunlight. It reached 140F and the internal battery swelled up and split open the case; they are fine to use, but you need to be mindful on where to store them. From that lesson, I now store my Lithium jump starter in the trunk next to the spare tire; its MUCH cooler in there.
come on, let's destroy the control units! 💪🔥⚡ Caution: ⚡please always close and open the electrical circuit with BLACK!! DO NOT handle it as shown here at 0:05 + 9:05 + 11:05! Also/and especially when jump-starting from car to car! Tip: just remember: Red/plus ALWAYS stays connected for LONGER. And if just the engine control unit is broken ($2,000 to $4.000,-installed), then the problem was between the steering wheel and the driver's seat. So people, BEWARE: as I said, never connect in the wrong order when jump-starting! For the sake of your electronics and your money: Make the red contact good and tight! Then, when the circuit is closed (with black/minus): DO NOT TOUCH/wiggle the red one again before the black one is off again! If you suspect that the red one is not properly seated, first REMOVE THE BLACK one and THEN correct/contact the red one. Then put the black one back on... etc. If the black one sparks, it's not so bad, as the electric shock is "cushioned" by the battery. (If the red one sparks, the shock goes through the entire on-board electronics every time... good luck, Raphael
This is exactly what I've thought about doing,, but don't run into a dead battery more than once every 3-5 years so I've never bought one since they're $100 or more. The advantage of the super-capacitor jump-starters is that they can (allegedly) charge themselves off of a low battery, and store enough power to start the car. The thing I don't like about the battery based ones is that you have to keep the battery charged. Lithium and lead/acid batteries have self-discharge rates that they might be dead in 6 months unless you charge them. A super-capacitor charger charges off your car battery, your phone, or the wall. Honestly, it'd be cool to see a hybrid car battery that already has a super-capacitor in it, and maybe some temperature sensors that charge it up when it's extremely cold. Then you'd get extra CCA capacity, or just protect against batteries that are low on capacity.
A lithium jump pack is designed to disconnect its internal lithium battery once it sees alternator voltage. It protects the lithium battery which needs a different charging algorithm. Cold lithium batteries reduce voltage and capacity. On Teslas the car has to maintain battery temp in order to charge it in freezing temps. The big advantage of a lithium jump pack is that it holds a charge for a year or more, something a lead acid won't do. Plus the life of a lithium jump pack is much longer, especially if both are used periodically. Starting a car independent of a partially discharged car battery is not the use case for these packs.
@@jenni75288 use as intended, just to jump start, as a " additional boost" device for the motor to swing when battery is not capable to do it on it's own. Some can and do turn or swing a motor without a battery, but their longevity and reliability probably gets affected by doing it, shortening the lifespan. However, much better conditions and smaller engines were present during most of those illustrations. Ideal situations would be if you have a untraceable parasitic current draw with a 50/50 battery diagnosis . Getting you to a point (place of safety) where you can either, determine the fault, replace a bad, or recharge the good battery.
My experience with lithium ion jump packs has been very negative in cold weather. Looking at Amazon nearly all of these units look similar with cosmetic changes. Lipstick on a pig comes to mind.
I notice once the engine turn over with the lead acid, it's easy to restart again. A fair comparison is let the engine sit for a day and restart with the Li-ion.
You can make a super powerful lithium jump pack out of old tool battery pack cells and a 12V 3 cell BMS board. You will want a heavy duty diode to prevent the car 14V from back feeding into it
I dunno if anyone commented on this but if you've had the packs attached why wouldn't you expect it to start after some time accumulating a charge lol? Today I connected my 9ah dewalt to start my ranger battery, which was barely dead, but it worked! Wires got friggan hot as hell but it didn't so much as take a single bar of charge lol to crank that 4 liter over and get me going.
Doesn't hold up well in Phoenix heat either. If you store this in your car and its 120 degrees outside I think you will lose all capacity fairly quickly. I have ruined laptop batteries by leaving them in the car here. Greenhouse effect can get temps over 150 inside a car.
@@RoyArrowood yea Li-ion jumpstartes should not be stored inside the car, only in your house or possibly the garage. I think they should make LFE jump packs as they are much better suited for extreme temperatures.
So does lead acid. Lead looses about half it's capacity at 0°F and around two thirds at -15 so if the Lead acid booster had been in the truck overnight it wouldn't work either. Lithium ion losses about half it's punch at -4F and may not discharge at all if colder than that.
@@RoyArrowood Lithium ion actually likes it better a bit warm but outside it's optimal range it looses half if cycle life for every 10°F hotter it gets. Above 130 it'll fail spewing potentially burning gases. Definitely don't leave one on the dash in the sun in the SW...
I have a 1500 amp AVAPOW... started a 4cyc sedan every time . These small lithium jump starter pack some punch. Not sure why yours don't start. And i'm pretty sure you're suppose to connect the plug to your jumper before connecting to the car battery. That was how most of them works. The battery pack needs to read your plugs and reset before you connect to the battery.
Yup, those big Clore Automotive JNC packs are the industry standard, I have a 4 year old JNC660, original battery, still works great. Recently I picked up a NOCO GBX45 compact lithium (USB rechargable), using the JNC660 as backup. The Noco's have such nice fit and finish, even the box it comes in is nice, like what Apple products come in.
Hubjeep Thank you for taking the time to recommend that. I need a small jump battery. Long story but Boxster owners understand. The trunks won't open without power so you have to have a jumper in the cabin which has absolutely no room for anything. Thanks ....
I know you're kinda limited when all 3 batteries turned out to be fine, so thanks for going ahead with the test. But to be fair, disconnecting the battery doesn't simulate a dead one. The dead battery actually adds a rather heavy load to the circuit which would be a more accurate test. Also, lithium batteries are notoriously poor in the cold.
When a Li-ion booster is colder than a few degrees F its ability to discharge goes way down. Won't charge or discharge at all while it's about 5F below. If you stuck the colder one showing 77% under your jacket until it was as warm as the booster pack from your garage it would've worked right away too. Cold weather saps the car battery the same way so if you don't have a booster you can use a small heater or a heat lamp to try warming the battery enough to crank over.
It’s enough to run an electric dryer for crying out loud! I used to jump cars with just a 10’ piece of 14-2 NM cable. Never without romex and it works perfectly fine.😉
@@Jon-hx7pe LOL...yes. Amperage is inversely related to voltage so yes, you’re correct. However, in the time it takes to jump a car, you’re removing the undersized wire before it really heats up. Is it ideal or code compliant under whatever authority regulates automotive electronics, probably not, but I’ve done it successfully and quite often over the years. I’ve been a licensed electrical contractor for 22 years but I will admit, low voltage electrical is not my field of expertise so take my comment with a grain of salt. 😉
I'm not entirely sure, but when you disconnect battery like you did, it resets computer in the vehicle, and the engine may not start, or may not run properly for a few minutes until the 02 sensors in the exhaust warm up.... it wont idle properly until it "learns" how to again, very frustrating on a -20c morning at 5am
The Lith pack i had did not help with my dead Bimmer sedan this morning as the temp was -10 degrees. The Lith pack was stored inside when I tried to jump it. I think I’m going to have to try using two Lith pack and see what happens. The car battery is probably about 80% dead so that doesn’t help either with this cold weather.
If I were to have one of these, I would want to keep it in the vehicle so it would be there when I needed it. A jump starter that has an operating temperature of -4° (-20° C) on the low end just doesn’t seem terribly useful. It wouldn’t work when you’d be most likely to need it
The problem with this is that all batteries don't mix well with cold. That's just how they all are. Don't start your car for a week in well below freezing temps and your battery won't crank.
That jump pack that got below freezing is likely toast. It may work for a little while but its likely the battery is all puffy in side and won't recharge as intended
Mainly don't have to do a big work up about this situation with jumper one is a lithium battery carries more power for size to weight the main reason is this lithium battery does not lose power over amount of time AGM batteries hold power longer then basic lead acid battery drains itself over time. It's called weight time power key factor of intervals of recharging lithium batteries win out.
I mean you tested one of the cheapest lithium jump starters I have a Noco gbx 55 you can hit overide if it doesn't detect a battery but it will remove all safety features
Acid battery in a jumper last about one year if you frequently charge them but lithim last longer but aparentally get affected by cold temp acid batt don't. I prefer acid jumper cause has more power to start vehicle and can be used to start a 10 or more vehicle depend on The jumper capacity.
That small jump starter uses a lithium ion battery and they don't work as well in cold weather. The one I own also says that after you hook it up, you have to put the car on accessories for 10 seconds then start the car. Otherwise it won't work.
I keep lead acid in car at all times. Because lithium can be damaged when frozen or heated at temperatures that cars get to. I do have lithium that I keep in the house to stay warm. It is my goto whenever something needs a jump. I will never let it get cold or hot though. .
Couldn't believe you were even considering it a fair comparison using one that was warm and one left in the cold and what is with using it without the battery? I have used the old ones for years and liked them but your Ill informed disrespect for the new tech is not impressive.
I’m literally here because my vehicle won’t start. I have the big pack but it doesn’t work well or at all and I’m trying to see what would be the cheaper and more efficient . I have 2 little girls and the other day we got to the car, my battery died and Although I have regular cables I dreaded approaching strangers for help .
The lithium battery booster pack is clicking because it's disconnected from the car battery which requires it to need a power source to keep it running .These lithiums battery booster packs are very very tricky🕵♂️
General question that has nothing to do with this video, but with prior videos that you have done on wiring a home. The question I have is: “is there a code for how much insulator sheathing (the outermost insulator coating on standard household Romeo) can be left inside of a electrical receptacle. In other words, how much of the outer sheathing must be stripped off (e.g., 1/2”, 1/4”) ? Thanks.
Those things will last around 7 years then have battery issues, use it or not. Plus charge must be maintained once a month or battery will die sooner than 7 years. The lead acid battery could easily be replaced for around $40, just did this yesterday. I think the Li-ion is a throw away, could be dangerous if you don't know what you're doing and required breaking into the case and desoldering from the motherboard.
Many better lithium-ion jump start packs have a "boost" feature for when the battery is too low to be detected.... sorry to your sponsor but that's a crappy example of a lithium ion jump-starter. Also as mentioned lithium-ion loses most of its output in extreme cold. Warm it up and try again.
Had two lead/acid jump starters. Both died due to neglect. Unlike my spanners which just wear out in a regular civilized manner. Batteries are misery - you pay a lot, and they need caring for. Better to buy a dog. So can these pocket starters die from neglect too?
To understand why those 8ga wires Cables can carry that much amps you need to understand OHM'S Law The longer the wire the Heavier they have to be to carry Current (Amps) and those 8ga cable being only about 10" long is why they can carry the The amps to Start the Truck NOW if you Made the 8ga Cables 4ft long they would Not Start the truck they would not be able to Carry only about 1/4 of the Amps , So the shorter the wire the More Current Amps it Can Handle The longer The Wire it has to Be Bigger .
Lithium won’t start from Emptied battery sadly. A problem. My two lithium portables died same week after a year. Didn’t last long. Did do big diesels now won’t start even 2 litre diesels. Maybe a 1.2 petrol best
It's pretty simple why it did not work. These Lithium Jump Starters don't work well when they are cold. The battery inside has to warm up for them to work. To make that happen use short bursts. Just turn the key on and off a few times and kick the motor to get the battery warm. By the 5th time it should be warm enough to start your car or truck.
They froze one battery after messing with it and had the other battery at 35 degrees, granted the foxpeed probably would not work well in this situation but the test is just not done correctly.
The Foxspeed is not designed to operate in minus 15 degrees...period. A better quality Lithium will work fine that is designed for minus 40. Costs about $150. Why carry a lead acid battery around with you?
Rubin. Please protect your eyes next time you attempt to short circuit high current conductors. It would be a shame to say "the last thing I ever saw was a shower of molten metal".
These Lithium Ion jump packs should be called charging packs. They are designed to give enough charge to your car battery to enable a start. As shown they cannot substitute for a car battery. A chunky lead acid such as Snap On will start anything, with or without the vehicle battery connected.They also lie about the capacity. They add the 5 v capacity to the 12 v capacity neglecting to say that both voltages are generated simultaneously by the same battery. How dishonest is that? These Li-on packs are designed to start a car where the battery has gone flat accidentally by leaving lights on etc. They need a little time to put enough charge back in to enable a start. They cannot help if your battery itself is faulty. To cover all eventualities get yourself a good quality lead acid. My SnapOn 17Ah has given me good service in the car trade for many years although I have had to replace the battery itself 3 times in 15years, but at a fraction of the cost of the jump pack itself.
trying to use a tiny SLA at -15F to start what a gigantic SLA couldnt. I dont see the logic there. Only if the jump pack was a small Silicate Salt based battery. Also that jump pack is 2AWG CCA or Copper Clad Aluminum, its what they all are to give you false sense of security.
I just have to wonder why we can make electric cars using lithium batteries, but no one makes a full sized lithium starter battery. I would ike to be able to go 10+ years on a battery instead of the typical 3-5 years I get out of a lead acid.
They are available, but still pretty expensive. I expect that to change in the next few years. For example: shop.advanceautoparts.com/r/car-technology/lithium-car-battery
Lead/acid is still the best battery for rapid discharge as is needed for a starter motor. Lithium is good at steady, gradual discharge as is needed for a continuously operating piece of equipment in a relatively steady state. The lithium jumper pack contains and charges a large capacitor with the lithium cells and the rapid discharge of the capacitor is what boosts the vehicle battery. In fact, capacitors are often used in extremely cold climates to start heavy equipment because they're not subject to as much temperature degradation as any chemical battery, including lead/acid. Now of course, you cannot run anything on a capacitor continuously because it is more or less an accumulator of electrical energy, discharging its stored energy rapidly but cannot provide steady flow nor steady voltage. The point of my comment being, lithium cells are not a viable battery technology for intense rapid discharge, they have their place in other applications for sure, such as phones, computers, etc. As for the temperature issue, while lead/acid degrades under colder temperatures, lithium really takes a nose dive at some point, definitely not a cold weather battery.
Most EV's have absolutely no problem in the cold, though you do see reduced range. The Nissan Leaf is the one that suffers the most, but this is because Nissan cheaped out and went with an air-cooled battery instead of a heated/cooled unit like everyone else uses. (Supposedly the next Leaf will fix this) Normal EV's will run their battery heater/cooler even when the car is off, if the computer says its too hot/cold out, or if you set the car's computer to do so. For example, if you leave for work at 7am each day, you can tell the car to pre-heat the battery at 6:45am. Or better yet, tell it to pre-heat the entire car, so you do not need to defrost or defog at all, and the seat heaters can be readied. Of course this, and lithium-ion's reduced output at low temps, means you do lose some range in extreme cold. Normal EV's can lose ~20%. Nissan Leaf's lose 35-50%. And for the record, I'm not a super EV evangelist. Just a mechanic who works on anything with wheels, and have my certs for EV's. I'll get one when I can charge it at home, but the current rental doesn't allow it. Booo~!
I have the same lithium-ion jumper pack and I love it. I've had for about 3 months and used it a few times. I live in Chicago, so it gets pretty cold here. I noticed it works best the closer it is to 70 degrees. It was 5 degrees last week and my car wouldn't start with the pack connected, so I put the pack inside my jacket, sat inside the car for 15 minutes, and let my body heat warm up the pack. I tried it again and car started right up.
They only work for a few years.
Bernardo Cisneros
Thanks for saying that. I'm trying to decide what brand of small Lithium jump start battery to purchase and this is a meaningful comment to me. The test really didn't help.
@@dlee3710
That makes sense. No battery lasts forever. They are just batteries.
A useful observation!
That could save someone's bacon!
Hey, if you wore a bigger coat you could just do that with the car battery!
More seriously the little packs can more easily taken inside in really cold weather. I've even taken them into restaurants, work, libraries and coffee shops in sub zero weather as I usually have a backpack anyway, to carry stuff.
I've charged it in some places too.
Of course bringing it in at home, overnight is the main thing, at least when it's double digits below zero... normally I don't.
I’ve used a jump n carry as a car battery before. We were reviving a Toyota. It was a small 4 banger but the jump pack was the only battery connected. We cranked and crank and started that thing a dozen times or more. I was really impressed with the jump pack but since it’s pretty much a car battery with jumper cables attached it’s makes sense why it would be able to do it.
I have the JNC 660 and its been wonderful for about 12 years now. Only just recently had to replace the battery.
I think the cold lithium pack needs to be taken inside, warmed to room temperature, charged overnight, and retested. That would rule out any failure of the battery pack itself.
It won't discharge or charge at all at the temperature it was cold soaked to. Just letting it warm up above freezing or even above 0°F should get it where it works as well as the other.
I was a friends house while he was working on an older ford dump (diesel). Batteries were dead, so he pulled out a Lithium Ion Jump Starter and Power Pack. that he got form Harbor Freight. Never hesitated... I bought one and use it when I go to bush-hog. My tractor is only cranked these days when I go to bushhog! Never fails bust-off that little diesel. I use mostly for the tractor, but I keep it in my wife's truck to make sure she doesn't get stranded. I also bought a Viking 1700 with the aux compressor. Got tire of flat lawnmower tires. The KOT's Meow. I have a 12' enclosed trailer that I keep my Hustler 52 in, and that's where the V17c resides. Along with tools. I call it my Mobile Storage. heh-heh-heh
I had one of those JNC770R packs. Lasted under one month and only two jumps. They wanted close to $70 for round trip shipping for a warranty replacement so I chucked it and got a cheapo lead acid jump pack from harbor freight. Four years later, the HF pack is still working well on its original battery.
For anyone interested if you pick up a used/broken or have a non working JNC unit it's super easy to replace to sealed batteries inside with the same quality branded cells with the same or higher capacity, they are relatively cheap on Amazon/specialty battery wholesale sites/eBay/etc. That's the only downside to the Harborfreight jump packs is inconsistent battery quality (and copper coated aluminum wire leads, not pure copper) you can also upgrade or replace the cells in those units too, but it's really not worth it vs. the original price... Just hope you get a good one lol 🙏🏼
@@berryreading4809 the red 770r is what I use for aaa roadside full time. They do the job.i keep it in the cabin floorboard with the heater running and charging as I go on calls in the winter.
@@truckdriver8416 They cost more for a reason! The leads are 100% copper with UV resistant rated sheathing, the cells are name branded and capacity tested before being put into a new unit, plus the clamps have better springs, better teeth geometry instead of just junk chrome and copper plating like on cheaper units... (the same ones that use copper coated aluminum leads and randomly batch tested sealed batteries) If your job requires a quality jump pack I'd buy JNC, if I was messing around the house with some non essential stuff with multiple jump options I can see the appeal of a cheaper unit harbor freight or otherwise... I've recently been trying out a couple of Schumacher li-ion jump pacs (real ones, not the mini capacitor style, although they are kind of a hybrid between the two styles honestly) with great results 👍 it's the Schumacher li-ion 1200 w/compressor great compact unit for most vehicles, but it's Achilles heel is having an onboard battery power only compressor (without modification 😉) and a horrendously slow charge time via micro-usb... but it's a perfect all in one unit for less prepared family members since the li-ion battery stays charged quite well, it has a usable compressor for up to crossover/stock SUV tires and is very compact and idiot proof... Definitely not a pro tool, but I keep one in my small run around truck and bought one for a family member, luckily this was back before the price went up over $65 😡 or I would've supplied more for gifts over the last year 😒
@@berryreading4809 when using your ion battery jump starter, instead of using the USB to recharge it back up after a jump start, why don't you try leaving it connected to the jumped vehicle as it runs and charges through the alternator for about three or four minutes and see if it fully charges back up that way and replaces the little bit of power you pulled from it to crank the dead battery. That's what I do when I jump with the 770r now. I don't disconnect the jumper box right away once I crank the car I let it recharge up and replace the battery power that I just pulled out of the jump box with the car's alternator recharging it for me.
@@truckdriver8416 That's another downside of it being similar to one of those glovebox li-ion boosters 😠 First on a completely disconnected or dead battery it has a timed relay that cycles power off/on for several seconds before reseting and cycling full power again (even though it has a large enough battery, not just a big capacitor 🙄) that's not a deal breaker and I have run equipment with just the pack, but can't remember if it was dumb equipment or had an ecu 🤔 anyway the circuitry also disconnects that relay after a start and if the alternator is working it won't reconnect after sensing voltage input (that might be the entire reason they decided to make it cycle like that, one bad alternator putting out 16v+ could fry that thing!, 24v might turn it into a handheld campfire 🤣) li-ion chemistry is definitely pros and cons! I try not to keep any of my tool batteries inside my house unless I'm there and it's all Dewalt or Milwaukee lol, even in my utility bed truck I try my best not to leave any in the cab overnight! (although I usually break that rule) BTW my "real" super duty jump pack/12v power pack is a home depot rigid brand toolbox that perfectly fits two 850 CA (680cca) 200min reserve capacity marine cranking batteries with some 00 cables used to make it 12v or 24v, a short set of 2g cables on the terminals is made up to a Anderson plug that fits my winch, large 120v power inverter, two sets of jumper cables I added them to, and can even plug directly into of any of my trucks since they are setup for easy jumping or winch swapping without opening the hood 😉 that box will also start some fairly large 24v excavators or other equipment that were left on/went dead over a few weeks... Only downside is a 150lbish jump pack isn't ideal for moving around very far by yourself 🤣 funny enough I actually have a little less invested (about $350 if i had to buy everything new instead of using what i already had, the box,cables,anderson plugs)in that than a high end JNC 12/24v model! (But those don't weigh as much 😆) BTW the 2AWG "HYCLAT" anderson style plug connectors from Amazon are super useful for all types of setups 👍 btw if you aren't familiar anderson connectors are DC one way connectors like what you've probably seen on battery powered forklifts and maybe on your service tuck! I've noticed more and more roadside/state/fleet/service/utility trucks and equipment with external anderson plugs for easy quick jump starting, especially on utility companies that mainly work up North lol 🥶
If you tried to start it a few more times, it might start. The LiPo cells need to be warmed up. Starting it a few times cold warms it up really quickly, and you should be able to crank it over by then.
I think cold weather testing of batteries and jump starters are always the best test . The equipment and vehicle should be same cold temperature zero or below then run the test . Likes that a lot .
I have never tired a little one. Convenient size and if the work, it's a good first step. I recently borrowed a friends bigger one rather than running 100' extension cord with the charger. It was snowed in so I couldn't easily get a car into the back 40. The bigger pack worked hard but after many tries it succeeded. I could see having a small one for quick try, especially since the Lithium probably recharges faster than the big ones.
I've got a lithium one.. They charge for a few hours and they're at 100%. Some wont attempt to jump if they don't see at least 10v on the battery... Mine is like that. It does the thing though on a 5.4L.
I've got a second one coming that doesn't have that limitation and should be able to spin my motor easily. They're more for jumping batteries that are almost there, and just a little low vs. a completely dead battery. Handy to have. When I jumped my expedition with the one I have, I ordered a second one for my other vehicle...
What he's seeing with the COLD pack is accurate. The lithium cells DONT like cold weather. Heating em up to 30-40F would be ideal. Mine will do it in the cold, but it takes a few tries to get that big amp pull to warm up the unit.
The problem with battery jumpers is that you might carry it in your car for months or years before you need to use it. If you don't charge it up on a regular schedule it might fail when you need it. That's why I am a fan of the capacitor type jumpers.
If you don't care about trunkability, you could also get a small lead acid battery light enough to lift on your own, and carry it in a milk crate or similar.
Or a battery with a handle on it, like many now have.
Set of good jumper cables and you have yourself a portable jump pack.
Keep it on a maintenance charger and it should give years of service.
Exactly what I have
So you're saying don't carry a jump starter, but just a spare battery that you can change out?
@@musicalhistory4392 Not necessarily, A jumper pack is basically just an all in one unit with a small 12V battery, built in cables and a handle.
You can make your own at home with just a car battery and jumper cables. A deep cycle battery is probably better for this application since they’re designed to be drained constantly.
To be honest I prefer this crude battery and jumper cable method, most new jumpers have all these safety nannies that get in the way of starting a dead car. A regular deep cycle car battery has more cranking amps than any standard jumper pack on the market.
But you have to keep it charged.
The classic method used long before jump packs existed is mounting a full-sized lead-acid battery to a hand truck then attaching a set of heavy jumper cables to it by cutting off the alligator clips and using standard copper lugs to connect to post-style (I convert every side terminal battery vehicle I own to post style batteries. They're great for around the shop and of course you can parallel a jump pack or other battery for difficult starts.
I'm not sure if you know or not! But when you disconnect the battery from a vehicle, it can erase the transmission codes. Causing the transmission to act up. I'm very impressed that little lithium battery started the truck. Thank you for sharing
You might have just relieved a bit of concern that the “transmission was sounding strange” as we are right now driving the truck! 😅
As Naomi mentioned the transmission was doing some weird stuff where it was shifting into 5th even while just barely moving. I shut off the truck, started again, and then everything seemed to work again. Is there anything special I need to do to restore the transmission codes? Seems silly that disconnecting a battery would mess with a vehicle's transmission.
@@BenjaminSahlstrom, On my 99 Volvo it disabled the radio 😂
@@BenjaminSahlstrom
Yes there is Naomi! You need to look into a manual for whatever vehicle you're working on, I had a Chrysler LeBaron i had to run 1st gear up to 2000 RPM then shift up 2nd gear and then 3rd gear and then let it go into overdrive. By that time i was hitting about 90 miles an hour, or more. Had to do that several times, like I said you have to look in a manual find out what you'll need to do for the vehicle you're working on. Thank you for your response, i hope I gave you some good advice you can use.
@@classic287 Did the same thing on our 2009 Honda CRV, had to reset the radio with a code when I changed the battery. Part of the anti theft system in the cars radio.
I appreciate you testing in true cold conditions since this is typically when batteries fail and which normally reduces the performance of the jump starters. As another comment listed, I think the best choice is an ultra capacitor version, because the cold doesn’t impact its performance and generally you can use the weak battery to pre-charge it… better yet you can get a hybrid which has the lithium battery combined with the caps and the lithium battery gives you another option to pre-charge the capacitors.
Lithium batteries have the advantage of holding a charge for a long long time, but they struggle in cold weather. Lead acid batteries do well in the cold, but they have to either me recharged frequently or kept on a battery tender.
Wire resistance is proportional to length. Shorter cables can get away with being lighter gauge. For the same amount of current longer cables need to be heavier gauge.
The only benefit I ever got from a lead acid jump pack is dead weight in my car for the winter. The couple I owned wouldn't start anything, even if the battery in the vehicle was just low and not dead. I bought a Li-Ion jump pack and it has started everything I've thrown at it, multiple times too without needing to recharge right away. Even our '87 Winnebago with a beefy carbed 454 in 30 degree weather just cranked cranked over like it was sunny and 75.
More power to anyone that still uses old and aging acid batteries to jump start something, but I'll stick with the Li-Ion jump pack.
On the lithium jumper there's a small booster button on it . Not sure if that would of made a difference.
Thanks for the video!
I'll just add a note to be careful with *some* battery-charger/starters when hooking them up without a battery installed. Really high amp charger/starters push out the high amperage by increasing the output volts. The battery acts as a energy sink and will then absorb the amps pulling down the volts to near ~14v even though the charger/starter may be trying to push out, perhaps 18-22 volts. The (dead) installed battery protects the vehicles electrical system from the too-high voltage. By removing the battery and hooking up such a high amp charger/starter, the vehicles electrical system see the high voltage and could damage some components. Check the output of volts of a charger starter before hooking it up to a vehicle without a battery.
Excellent point.
That is 100 % correct , I have NOCO GB 500 its massive power output . Output volts on Bypass mode is 16 approx. Volts and on Regular smart mode 14.5 Volts , so be careful .
@@radiotvshop oh ok so NOCO has that safety bypass mode so that you can jump a battery that is completely dead at 0 volts? I noticed that option on the HULKMAN 85S and didn’t know which other units had it. Unfortunately I found this out too late and bought an SP Tools jumper, didn’t arrive yet but I think that it doesn’t have the option. To me it makes no sense to buy one without that option if there are models that have the option.
this. i had to mcguyver a dewalt 20v 3 ah battery into a jump pack one night. was scarred I was gonna cook the car. i didn't
What is the lifetime of the units? I find that they only have a 100% lifetime on average of 18 months for the lead acid unit which I prefer, but the cost of a replacement battery to be prohibited because it is about 3/4 the cost of a new jumper. If you find it on sale off season, ( which happens every other time since I have it working 100% all the time). I am left with a choice of saving a small amount of money and have a beaten up looking unit (which is what I have) and none of the new bells and whistles, like USB ports.
Why are these replacement batteries so expensive?
These things are cool and work great when they’re new but it’s a question of reliability. How do they hold up after a couple years in your trunk getting charged periodically? I’ve had two and they both went bad after a year or so and I looked after mine pretty well. Similar climate to yours here in Canada. I’m just not convinced. I still rely on my jnc 770
If I had to choose I'd go with the 770 no question.
I've had a DBPower 800A lithium jumper for 3 years. It always seen constant use, and it never failed on me. It did fail on me one time but it was my fault complete, I had accidentally left it on my car seat with direct sunlight. It reached 140F and the internal battery swelled up and split open the case; they are fine to use, but you need to be mindful on where to store them. From that lesson, I now store my Lithium jump starter in the trunk next to the spare tire; its MUCH cooler in there.
Super good stuff
Happy birthday 🤩
The old school with the lead acid jumper is heavier but is better because if the alternator goes out then it can run the car for a while.
come on, let's destroy the control units! 💪🔥⚡ Caution: ⚡please always close and open the electrical circuit with BLACK!! DO NOT handle it as shown here at 0:05 + 9:05 + 11:05! Also/and especially when jump-starting from car to car! Tip: just remember: Red/plus ALWAYS stays connected for LONGER. And if just the engine control unit is broken ($2,000 to $4.000,-installed), then the problem was between the steering wheel and the driver's seat.
So people, BEWARE: as I said, never connect in the wrong order when jump-starting! For the sake of your electronics and your money: Make the red contact good and tight! Then, when the circuit is closed (with black/minus): DO NOT TOUCH/wiggle the red one again before the black one is off again! If you suspect that the red one is not properly seated, first REMOVE THE BLACK one and THEN correct/contact the red one. Then put the black one back on... etc. If the black one sparks, it's not so bad, as the electric shock is "cushioned" by the battery. (If the red one sparks, the shock goes through the entire on-board electronics every time... good luck, Raphael
Need to try a super capacitor jump starter, not effected by the cold
This is exactly what I've thought about doing,, but don't run into a dead battery more than once every 3-5 years so I've never bought one since they're $100 or more.
The advantage of the super-capacitor jump-starters is that they can (allegedly) charge themselves off of a low battery, and store enough power to start the car. The thing I don't like about the battery based ones is that you have to keep the battery charged. Lithium and lead/acid batteries have self-discharge rates that they might be dead in 6 months unless you charge them. A super-capacitor charger charges off your car battery, your phone, or the wall.
Honestly, it'd be cool to see a hybrid car battery that already has a super-capacitor in it, and maybe some temperature sensors that charge it up when it's extremely cold. Then you'd get extra CCA capacity, or just protect against batteries that are low on capacity.
A lithium jump pack is designed to disconnect its internal lithium battery once it sees alternator voltage. It protects the lithium battery which needs a different charging algorithm. Cold lithium batteries reduce voltage and capacity. On Teslas the car has to maintain battery temp in order to charge it in freezing temps. The big advantage of a lithium jump pack is that it holds a charge for a year or more, something a lead acid won't do. Plus the life of a lithium jump pack is much longer, especially if both are used periodically. Starting a car independent of a partially discharged car battery is not the use case for these packs.
Well said.
Please clarify the last sentence, I’m not using it as a charge system. Just for starting a dead battery
@@jenni75288 use as intended, just to jump start, as a " additional boost" device for the motor to swing when battery is not capable to do it on it's own. Some can and do turn or swing a motor without a battery, but their longevity and reliability probably gets affected by doing it, shortening the lifespan. However, much better conditions and smaller engines were present during most of those illustrations. Ideal situations would be if you have a untraceable parasitic current draw with a 50/50 battery diagnosis . Getting you to a point (place of safety) where you can either, determine the fault, replace a bad, or recharge the good battery.
ua-cam.com/video/9cV837XhCN8/v-deo.html
My experience with lithium ion jump packs has been very negative in cold weather. Looking at Amazon nearly all of these units look similar with cosmetic changes. Lipstick on a pig comes to mind.
The Hulkman 85S has a pre-heat option that almost none of them have.
I notice once the engine turn over with the lead acid, it's easy to restart again. A fair comparison is let the engine sit for a day and restart with the Li-ion.
You can make a super powerful lithium jump pack out of old tool battery pack cells and a 12V 3 cell BMS board. You will want a heavy duty diode to prevent the car 14V from back feeding into it
I dunno if anyone commented on this but if you've had the packs attached why wouldn't you expect it to start after some time accumulating a charge lol?
Today I connected my 9ah dewalt to start my ranger battery, which was barely dead, but it worked! Wires got friggan hot as hell but it didn't so much as take a single bar of charge lol to crank that 4 liter over and get me going.
Lithium hates being cold!!
Doesn't hold up well in Phoenix heat either. If you store this in your car and its 120 degrees outside I think you will lose all capacity fairly quickly. I have ruined laptop batteries by leaving them in the car here. Greenhouse effect can get temps over 150 inside a car.
Apparently!
@@RoyArrowood yea Li-ion jumpstartes should not be stored inside the car, only in your house or possibly the garage. I think they should make LFE jump packs as they are much better suited for extreme temperatures.
So does lead acid. Lead looses about half it's capacity at 0°F and around two thirds at -15 so if the Lead acid booster had been in the truck overnight it wouldn't work either. Lithium ion losses about half it's punch at -4F and may not discharge at all if colder than that.
@@RoyArrowood Lithium ion actually likes it better a bit warm but outside it's optimal range it looses half if cycle life for every 10°F hotter it gets. Above 130 it'll fail spewing potentially burning gases. Definitely don't leave one on the dash in the sun in the SW...
I have a 1500 amp AVAPOW... started a 4cyc sedan every time . These small lithium jump starter pack some punch. Not sure why yours don't start. And i'm pretty sure you're suppose to connect the plug to your jumper before connecting to the car battery. That was how most of them works. The battery pack needs to read your plugs and reset before you connect to the battery.
Yup, those big Clore Automotive JNC packs are the industry standard, I have a 4 year old JNC660, original battery, still works great. Recently I picked up a NOCO GBX45 compact lithium (USB rechargable), using the JNC660 as backup. The Noco's have such nice fit and finish, even the box it comes in is nice, like what Apple products come in.
Hubjeep
Thank you for taking the time to recommend that. I need a small jump battery. Long story but Boxster owners understand. The trunks won't open without power so you have to have a jumper in the cabin which has absolutely no room for anything. Thanks ....
I know you're kinda limited when all 3 batteries turned out to be fine, so thanks for going ahead with the test. But to be fair, disconnecting the battery doesn't simulate a dead one. The dead battery actually adds a rather heavy load to the circuit which would be a more accurate test.
Also, lithium batteries are notoriously poor in the cold.
Bushcraft n Stuff
Good comment by you. Be careful of what you believe on UA-cam. Anyone can say anything.
When a Li-ion booster is colder than a few degrees F its ability to discharge goes way down. Won't charge or discharge at all while it's about 5F below. If you stuck the colder one showing 77% under your jacket until it was as warm as the booster pack from your garage it would've worked right away too.
Cold weather saps the car battery the same way so if you don't have a booster you can use a small heater or a heat lamp to try warming the battery enough to crank over.
Will in pass Project Farm testing?
Now THAT is the question. Project Farm is awesome.
“Thermostat wire” LOL! But for this application #8 (if that is AWG and not China wire gauge) is still a great description
It’s enough to run an electric dryer for crying out loud! I used to jump cars with just a 10’ piece of 14-2 NM cable. Never without romex and it works perfectly fine.😉
@@midnightflyer7510 don't car/truck starters can draw 60+ amps?
@@Jon-hx7pe
LOL...yes. Amperage is inversely related to voltage so yes, you’re correct. However, in the time it takes to jump a car, you’re removing the undersized wire before it really heats up. Is it ideal or code compliant under whatever authority regulates automotive electronics, probably not, but I’ve done it successfully and quite often over the years. I’ve been a licensed electrical contractor for 22 years but I will admit, low voltage electrical is not my field of expertise so take my comment with a grain of salt. 😉
I'm not entirely sure, but when you disconnect battery like you did, it resets computer in the vehicle, and the engine may not start, or may not run properly for a few minutes until the 02 sensors in the exhaust warm up.... it wont idle properly until it "learns" how to again, very frustrating on a -20c morning at 5am
Happy Birthday Ben!
Thanks guys!
My ring cameras won't work even with a charger plugged in below -5f. Lithium batt like to be a bit warmer.
The Lith pack i had did not help with my dead Bimmer sedan this morning as the temp was -10 degrees. The Lith pack was stored inside when I tried to jump it. I think I’m going to have to try using two Lith pack and see what happens. The car battery is probably about 80% dead so that doesn’t help either with this cold weather.
Grattis ! (Happy Birthday 🎉)
Love it. Do you have a video on THHN tips and tricks for wiring a shop?
I bet my Noco gbx75 2500amp booster would have started that truck with no battery no problem!"
Noco boosters are 💪
Thank you for making the video
Good review. I have that same lithium jumper but the name on it is Topvision. It has come in handy several times.
Seems like there are a lot of different "brands" of the same exact thing when it comes to these jumper packs.
Third generation used car dealer here... I bought 2 lithium starters and will never use a lead acid battery again.
Thanks for sharing your experience!
@@BenjaminSahlstrom Forgot to add I'm in Michigan so I've used them a lot in winter.
Annnd.... I keep one on my boat. Cheap insurance.
If I were to have one of these, I would want to keep it in the vehicle so it would be there when I needed it. A jump starter that has an operating temperature of -4° (-20° C) on the low end just doesn’t seem terribly useful. It wouldn’t work when you’d be most likely to need it
The problem with this is that all batteries don't mix well with cold. That's just how they all are. Don't start your car for a week in well below freezing temps and your battery won't crank.
That jump pack that got below freezing is likely toast. It may work for a little while but its likely the battery is all puffy in side and won't recharge as intended
Interesting. Maybe I'll have to open it up and see what it looks like.
you must really like the winter
YOU HAVE EXCEEDED YOUR "SO" QUOTA OF THE DAY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Ben, you need to head over to Project Farm's channel, he did a very thorough testing of these units
Mainly don't have to do a big work up about this situation with jumper one is a lithium battery carries more power for size to weight the main reason is this lithium battery does not lose power over amount of time AGM batteries hold power longer then basic lead acid battery drains itself over time. It's called weight time power key factor of intervals of recharging lithium batteries win out.
I mean you tested one of the cheapest lithium jump starters I have a Noco gbx 55 you can hit overide if it doesn't detect a battery but it will remove all safety features
HAPPY BIRTHDAY BROTHER ❤️❤️
Ji
Acid battery in a jumper last about one year if you frequently charge them but lithim last longer but aparentally get affected by cold temp acid batt don't. I prefer acid jumper cause has more power to start vehicle and can be used to start a 10 or more vehicle depend on The jumper capacity.
Very informative 👍
That small jump starter uses a lithium ion battery and they don't work as well in cold weather. The one I own also says that after you hook it up, you have to put the car on accessories for 10 seconds then start the car. Otherwise it won't work.
I keep lead acid in car at all times. Because lithium can be damaged when frozen or heated at temperatures that cars get to.
I do have lithium that I keep in the house to stay warm. It is my goto whenever something needs a jump. I will never let it get cold or hot though. .
Negative does not go on negative, it goes on a ground. Luckily., the main reason is for sparks so the switches on the jumpers are saving you lol
Did you hit the boost button?
I don't think that unit has one!
Better to try the lead acid battery jumper versus a mega capacitor style jump starter
how come you chose JNC770, not JNC660?
Couldn't believe you were even considering it a fair comparison using one that was warm and one left in the cold and what is with using it without the battery?
I have used the old ones for years and liked them but your
Ill informed disrespect for the new tech is not impressive.
what is the dif. beteen 20 volt battery with 1.5 AH and 20 volt battery with 3.0 Ah? THANKS . your every informing.
1.5 AH will supply 1.5 A current for 1 hrs, same logic for 3AH
I’m literally here because my vehicle won’t start. I have the big pack but it doesn’t work well or at all and I’m trying to see what would be the cheaper and more efficient . I have 2 little girls and the other day we got to the car, my battery died and Although I have regular cables I dreaded approaching strangers for help .
The lithium battery booster pack is clicking because it's disconnected from the car battery which requires it to need a power source to keep it running .These lithiums battery booster packs are very very tricky🕵♂️
yes Li-ion is not suitable for cold weather. LFE cells are much better for this application, but they are more expensive and bulky
Fox peed? Remove the alcohol from the marketing department.
It must sound better in Chinese.
General question that has nothing to do with this video, but with prior videos that you have done on wiring a home. The question I have is: “is there a code for how much insulator sheathing (the outermost insulator coating on standard household Romeo) can be left inside of a electrical receptacle. In other words, how much of the outer sheathing must be stripped off (e.g., 1/2”, 1/4”) ? Thanks.
WE KNOW IT'S HERE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Push the button for direct start, if not you have to wait for battery ballance
Those things will last around 7 years then have battery issues, use it or not. Plus charge must be maintained once a month or battery will die sooner than 7 years. The lead acid battery could easily be replaced for around $40, just did this yesterday. I think the Li-ion is a throw away, could be dangerous if you don't know what you're doing and required breaking into the case and desoldering from the motherboard.
Many better lithium-ion jump start packs have a "boost" feature for when the battery is too low to be detected.... sorry to your sponsor but that's a crappy example of a lithium ion jump-starter. Also as mentioned lithium-ion loses most of its output in extreme cold. Warm it up and try again.
Had two lead/acid jump starters. Both died due to neglect. Unlike my spanners which just wear out in a regular civilized manner. Batteries are misery - you pay a lot, and they need caring for. Better to buy a dog.
So can these pocket starters die from neglect too?
To understand why those 8ga wires Cables can carry that much amps you need to understand OHM'S Law The longer the wire the Heavier they have to be to carry Current (Amps) and those 8ga cable being only about 10" long is why they can carry the The amps to Start the Truck NOW if you Made the 8ga Cables 4ft long they would Not Start the truck they would not be able to Carry only about 1/4 of the Amps , So the shorter the wire the More Current Amps it Can Handle The longer The Wire it has to Be Bigger .
Brilliant !
Worried all of them will start fine 😁😂🤣😅 lol!!!!
Lithium won’t start from
Emptied battery sadly. A problem. My two lithium portables died same week after a year. Didn’t last long. Did do big diesels now won’t start even 2 litre diesels. Maybe a 1.2 petrol best
It's pretty simple why it did not work. These Lithium Jump Starters don't work well when they are cold. The battery inside has to warm up for them to work. To make that happen use short bursts. Just turn the key on and off a few times and kick the motor to get the battery warm. By the 5th time it should be warm enough to start your car or truck.
They froze one battery after messing with it and had the other battery at 35 degrees, granted the foxpeed probably would not work well in this situation but the test is just not done correctly.
dipstick heaters are cheap and work if dont have oem block heater.
Hi u
at 9:10.. the jumper broken .. u can see the spark.. ⚡️ ⚡️
The Foxspeed is not designed to operate in minus 15 degrees...period. A better quality Lithium will work fine that is designed for minus 40. Costs about $150. Why carry a lead acid battery around with you?
Rubin. Please protect your eyes next time you attempt to short circuit high current conductors. It would be a shame to say "the last thing I ever saw was a shower of molten metal".
That would be smart!
¿quien chingados le dio pulgar abajo a Benjamín? ¡Si el es muy chingon, Saludos desde Michoacán México!
13:27 "Fox peed" -- what a brand name. My guess: not made in America.
These Lithium Ion jump packs should be called charging packs. They are designed to give enough charge to your car battery to enable a start. As shown they cannot substitute for a car battery. A chunky lead acid such as Snap On will start anything, with or without the vehicle battery connected.They also lie about the capacity. They add the 5 v capacity to the 12 v capacity neglecting to say that both voltages are generated simultaneously by the same battery. How dishonest is that? These Li-on packs are designed to start a car where the battery has gone flat accidentally by leaving lights on etc. They need a little time to put enough charge back in to enable a start. They cannot help if your battery itself is faulty. To cover all eventualities get yourself a good quality lead acid. My SnapOn 17Ah has given me good service in the car trade for many years although I have had to replace the battery itself 3 times in 15years, but at a fraction of the cost of the jump pack itself.
trying to use a tiny SLA at -15F to start what a gigantic SLA couldnt. I dont see the logic there. Only if the jump pack was a small Silicate Salt based battery. Also that jump pack is 2AWG CCA or Copper Clad Aluminum, its what they all are to give you false sense of security.
dam u modern flue injecting for starting all the vehicle. I don't miss the carb days at all. :)
The jnc 660 is a much better unit than the 770. That being said any jnc will outlast any cheap China lithium jump pack.
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Batteries go to hell when they get cold... Warm that one at 77% up and see if thatll jump it!
Kick ass
The only reason I use led acid it's for the price
I just have to wonder why we can make electric cars using lithium batteries, but no one makes a full sized lithium starter battery. I would ike to be able to go 10+ years on a battery instead of the typical 3-5 years I get out of a lead acid.
They are available, but still pretty expensive. I expect that to change in the next few years.
For example:
shop.advanceautoparts.com/r/car-technology/lithium-car-battery
Lead/acid is still the best battery for rapid discharge as is needed for a starter motor. Lithium is good at steady, gradual discharge as is needed for a continuously operating piece of equipment in a relatively steady state.
The lithium jumper pack contains and charges a large capacitor with the lithium cells and the rapid discharge of the capacitor is what boosts the vehicle battery. In fact, capacitors are often used in extremely cold climates to start heavy equipment because they're not subject to as much temperature degradation as any chemical battery, including lead/acid. Now of course, you cannot run anything on a capacitor continuously because it is more or less an accumulator of electrical energy, discharging its stored energy rapidly but cannot provide steady flow nor steady voltage.
The point of my comment being, lithium cells are not a viable battery technology for intense rapid discharge, they have their place in other applications for sure, such as phones, computers, etc.
As for the temperature issue, while lead/acid degrades under colder temperatures, lithium really takes a nose dive at some point, definitely not a cold weather battery.
ua-cam.com/video/9cV837XhCN8/v-deo.html
Watch how long it takes to charge your lithium! 4 HOURS !!!
Why are we not seeing lithium car batteries?
My guess is that it is related to the fact that they don't work well in cold weather?
Cost?
Think about very cold electric cars
Most EV's have absolutely no problem in the cold, though you do see reduced range. The Nissan Leaf is the one that suffers the most, but this is because Nissan cheaped out and went with an air-cooled battery instead of a heated/cooled unit like everyone else uses. (Supposedly the next Leaf will fix this) Normal EV's will run their battery heater/cooler even when the car is off, if the computer says its too hot/cold out, or if you set the car's computer to do so. For example, if you leave for work at 7am each day, you can tell the car to pre-heat the battery at 6:45am. Or better yet, tell it to pre-heat the entire car, so you do not need to defrost or defog at all, and the seat heaters can be readied. Of course this, and lithium-ion's reduced output at low temps, means you do lose some range in extreme cold. Normal EV's can lose ~20%. Nissan Leaf's lose 35-50%.
And for the record, I'm not a super EV evangelist. Just a mechanic who works on anything with wheels, and have my certs for EV's. I'll get one when I can charge it at home, but the current rental doesn't allow it. Booo~!
it doesn't work, people don;t normally have two jumper packs.
I don’t trust lithium right now. Too much potential for fires.
Lead acid jump pack batteries don't self combust😂