I will tell you one thing. I've been watching videos till my eyes hurt. But I am aways having to use the closed caption because I can't hear very well. You I heard. Do you understand how perfect you video is to me. And the way you explained the sanding. I never knew that. I watched videos of people telling me different ways but this was perfect. Your format was great. Thank you for making my life simpler.
I often find tutorial videos difficult to watch due to the instructor's pace being unbearably slow or rambling off topic, but your instruction style is PERFECT! Just the right pace, & cuts right to the chase on the important info without all the unnecessary chitchat. Clear speech, & good visual comparison examples. Thank you!
Fun Fact - The reason for the numbers on the grits is easy to understand. Each number indicates the average number of grains on the paper per inch, so a sheet of 40 grit sandpaper has about 40 grains of the hard cutting substance imbedded over each inch, 400 grit paper has about 400 grains of grit per inch, etc... Not covered in this video is the differences between wet sandpaper and dry sandpaper. For lower grit papers (40 - 200) you can usually use them dry because they're cutting larger particles of material and those simply fall away but when you move to higher grits (400 - 4000) those cut smaller and smaller particles which tend to get stuck to the paper and clog up the spaces between the cutting grains on the paper. So after an amount of time sanding, the paper tends to get coated with the material you're trying to sand away, so they stop working. But when you use wet sandpaper (as the name implies) you wet the paper with water which acts as a lubricant that washes the material off the paper as you work. You can rinse the wet sandpaper to clean it off periodically... if you try that with dry-use sandpaper, it will rip and fall apart like any other kind of paper. Wet-use sandpaper tends to be more expensive per sheet but because the wet-use sandpaper is more durable and you can clean it it's just as cost-effective as the dry use sandpaper. You're welcome.
Thanks for sharing this as I am trying to find an answer for this. Does always the higher number sandpapers are made to combined with water or it needs to be one that is made to combined with water?
Another addition on the video, is to be clarified the sandpapers and also the drills. Can you use any sandpaper to the drill or if you drill has 4 or 8 holes ,your sandpapers needs to be with the same amount of holes? Have used a drill with halls but sanspapers without holes and has created a weirs blurry effect on some parts of the resin project
It instilled in me how important sanding is. Propper sanding techniques can make or break your project,nobody likes to sand but it is very important. Im from JC Missouri, You SHOWED ME the right way to get the PERCECT results. I subscribed to your channel and keep the good advice comming. Thank you
this was perfect! i’ve been doing resin for a few years now & have been doing projects that would require sanding. this was a great visual representation of what to expect!!! thank you!
I just found your channel. This was an excellent video. I'm a woodworker and I carve custom wood signs using a hand held wood router as well as using a laser to create some of my other projects. I'm also the weird one in the group.....I LOVE SANDING!!! My best friend's Dad had an automotive body shop when I was young. I worked for him in the summers as a youth. Yep, I worked in the sanding department. I was taught early on that no matter how well the body men repaired the wrecked vehicles, if the paint job was second rate, the customers were not happy, I spent many hours learning to sand and learning to appreciate the affect sanding has on the finish of a project. I'm now 69 years old and I still love to sand! And now I'm a new subscriber for you. Thanks!!
This video just saved me! Thank you! I sanded down a top layer on a preservation block because there were micro bubbles. I used 36, 80, 150 and 220. Then I went to top coat it thinking it would be clear when I poured the resin. I was SO WRONG! Now I know that I just need to keep going up to 4000 and end with a polish. Phew!!! I feel so much better!!
HI Elizabeth, I was thinking of using similar grits to get rid of some imperfections before the flood coat. Did you ever redo your project with success and if so, can you share your techniques. Thanks
That's what I believe I have now. My husband just took a small project over to his friend's upholstery shop to sand down something that would have taken me a long time to do. It looks beautiful! But when I put the alcohol on to clean it, it was still in that frosty looking state. I now have to find out what grit was the last so I can go from there. Or maybe he can do it for me LOL
This was extremely helpful. I have had sanding epoxy explain to me many times but I could not for the life of me find out how to get that glossy finish, and what the different grits had to do with it. The way you explained the grit differences, the amount of epoxy sanded off, and the different finishes was a perfect and easily understood. Thank you so much for the instructional video!
Thanks so much! Amazing clear cast and your quick coat are the only epoxies I’ve ever used. No need to search around for others when you start with perfection 😊
Love this!! Been looking for a "sanding resin for idiot guide and you did it!! I've been doing a lot of projects but to be honest.. Sometimes they skip the final phase and that's when we mess up so thank you
Hi, you're making extremely entertaining videos. More than that, great information! I'm starting to work (professionaly) with microcement which I use to mix with an acrylic resin. I love this product a lot, cause you can apply it everywhere, as long as the surface is in good condition and flattened. On top of that, you can create that beautiful weared 'stone' effect. The downside of the story is that I'm sentitive to chemicals, especially to the fumes. I literally feel it somewhere in my lungs. There are two options: 1) I quit chemicals forever and find an other way creating stuff with more ecological material. This will limit dramatically my array of projects (no bathroom, no floor,...) 2) Or I handle the chemicals in a very responsible way (also waste management!) and take advantage of their great properties. I give the second option a shot. What do you recommend when working with acrylic resins? Thx!
Thank you for this. Makes it so much easier to understand for those of us that need to see things to learn. 🤣 Absolutely, love working with your products.
With a new poured surface, that’s pretty darn close to perfect, but you want to work out a few waves or the odd dust spot, what grit would you suggest we be good to start at, would 4000 be sufficient and then go to polish? And, does polish actually provide a layer of protection to the surface ergo, making something we should do even on a new surface?
Nice!!! Appreciated the visuals!!!! Liked how you explained why you can’t jump from 40 to 1000 grit. Question though: when to use water for wet sanding.
Do the direction of the scratches matter? If I hand sand a piece, can I go in any direction, maybe resulting in cross hatched marks, will they disappear with polishing?
So, this was my very first project I ever did using resin. I cut out a cross on the scroll saw. Then hollowed it out with the saw, kind of like a cookie cutter. I taped the bottom of it with blue painters tape and poured the resin in. The next day I went to take all the tape off and found out the resin leaked out the bottom and on the wood itself. After struggling to get it all off it looks like the sticky stuff on the tape also stayed on the resin. Now, is there any way I can clean this up? By the way I added some sparkles in the resin and even like it is when you hold it up to a light it looks pretty cool.
@@AlumiliteCorporation I wish I could show you a picture of it. I was wondering if it's even possible to try and sand it. Especially with the wood all around the resin.
1.13. in you look like the news anchor I want to listen to, 😍 on the subject I'm interested in. I have only made a few ashtrays 😩 I made a rolling trap 🤦🏼♀️ got distracted & touched my surface like a muppet & left a 🌊 popping up on the back. It's cured & still in the mold (I left it in cause I have writing on the front to still fill & I didn't want to get dust in it. I bought a hand drill sanding tool off Amazon. But I also have good intuition & wet & dry black sand paper & resin varnish (that tbh I nearly never bought 🙄 some purchases are absolutely necessary). I've only tried 2 different resin brands, the first one was yellowish. I've repurchased the 2nd type because it's performance was amazing compared to the other, the brand is called Craft Resin. I've got asthma so I have a good respirator, goggles, an industrial fan my windows open & my extractor fan since I'm in my kitchen, but not killing my neighbours with fumes is always a good thing. That was a funky cube light. At some point I'll copy that for my nephew & niece & put paper around the outside to use as a story shadow box. Anyway thanks for the advice & ideas. I hope things are good at your end, stay blessed 💙💜🏴
Love the content. on try number 3 figured I'd reach out...engraved a flag on some mahogany about 1/16th deep, for a podium/stand. First board...ultimately didn't put enough down to cover the grooves and the surface of the board, but it looked ok, except for the prickly bumps that caught the light and looked not so great. Figured I'd sand it down and replicate what I did on my test piece, well that didn't go well. The first sand was ok, but second pass I started seeing these white spots peppered across the surface. would'nt wipe off and the more I sanded the more appeared so I stopped tried to wipe with alcohol, and subsequently figured that they are the bubble channels that ended up filling with the dust from the sanding. I'd take it down to the wood but on the stars section, I don't have room. 2nd try I sealed with shellac x2, and poured. Started off good but in the deeper part of the engraving, I could s ee some bubbles so I applied the torch to the whole thing, but I think I ended up staying longer on one part and it "cooked" it. Acting quick I scraped off best I could the 1/8th in coat including the caked up cooked part to 8/10 success. A little texture left but nothing I don't think sanding would help. SOOOOOO...if you've read this part thanks, here's the questions...anything can be done with the small white spots? 2nd question is since I have a light surface coat...I think what I'm reading everywhere is to sand it, wipe it and pour a flood coat on it, wait a bit and use a heat gun? Anything I'm missing?
Great info sanding resin. What grit and process would I use on wood going from a Matt finish to a semi gloss or satin finish. On let’s say black walnut. Thank you.
Thats a great work appreciated 👍 i need your suggestion, valuable precious advise for my projects. I am stuck with glossy shine finish. After sanding upto 2500 grit when i use alchole pad fir dust removal its perfectly alright but when i use cutting compound i came up with matt finish everytime and its giving me swear headach now since last 7 months. Awaiting your valuable response. Thanks
This was very informative as I'm sanding my first large piece and had no idea where to begin. Thank you If I go up to 4000 then want to add ocean waves on my table I shouldn't use polish then correct?
couple statement and a request When choosing which grit to move to in woodworking the addage has always been ~50% higher than the previous grit within the realistic availability. so 40 to 60, 60 to 90 but 90 is less common so you jump 60-80 then 120, 180 etc adding in an extra step like 150 as you see fit. Love the videos and totally miss the podcast to go along with maker monday. One more detailed video that may be helpful is master prep. specifically you have mentioned in other videos about smoother masters give smoother casts. If you have tips of preparing different mold master materials that would be helpful. Like method of finishing a 3d print, wood or clay to give the smoothest mold and therefore the clearest casts
Hey I love the new format with the screen! Quick question, what do you use to seal your resin only projects to keep glossy after the polishing compound? Right now I use Pledge Furniture polish after using Flitz polish.
what kind of power sander do you recommend. I have guys working on fiberglass joints for one week now, they can't seem to get it smooth yet. Any suggestions?
By polish do u mean top coat of the epoxy or polish is something else i don't know of ? Also if we don't use polish and simply top coat it with resin what result would that give after Sanding with lower grit and/or higher grit ?
What is a polishing compound and can I put my new coat of resin directly over it or do I need to clean it after that application first? Thank you!! Deborah
Hi, just came across your channel and I love that you do some more technical explanations when it comes to resins. I've been wondering about getting refraction effects into resins and would love to hear your take/ideas for it. Are there epoxys with enough difference in refractive index to be visible once poured together? Or do you have to use other clear materials? E.g. I've seen people use clear silicone as fake ice inside of resin. But what if you wanted to do clearly visible refraction plane somewhere inside the resin? You'd have to pour layers of material with the different refractive indices, not sure if that would work with a layer of silicone and resin. And what if you wanted to do swirls?
If I did a deep pour of resin (a 4in serving tray) and the surface is already smooth, is it necessary to sand before polishing? Should I still work up to 4,000 grit to get the most shine? Or just skip to polish?
Hi. Thanks for the video. I have a question regarding the selectable speed of my orbital sander. It goes from 1 to 5 an I’d like to know what’s (according to you) the best speed to select for each grid and for the polishing. Thanks a lot in advance.
I’m making and cutting some designs into wood and filling it in with epoxy but I’m installing LEDs underneath the epoxy designs to kind of light up the designs. Where should I stop grit wise for the best outcome?
Shop Our Epoxies : www.alumilite.com/products/epoxy/
I will tell you one thing. I've been watching videos till my eyes hurt. But I am aways having to use the closed caption because I can't hear very well. You I heard. Do you understand how perfect you video is to me. And the way you explained the sanding. I never knew that. I watched videos of people telling me different ways but this was perfect. Your format was great. Thank you for making my life simpler.
I often find tutorial videos difficult to watch due to the instructor's pace being unbearably slow or rambling off topic, but your instruction style is PERFECT! Just the right pace, & cuts right to the chase on the important info without all the unnecessary chitchat. Clear speech, & good visual comparison examples. Thank you!
Agreed. But pro tip: you can change playback speed if instructor is too fast or slow paced. :)
This channel is criminally underrated
Fun Fact - The reason for the numbers on the grits is easy to understand. Each number indicates the average number of grains on the paper per inch, so a sheet of 40 grit sandpaper has about 40 grains of the hard cutting substance imbedded over each inch, 400 grit paper has about 400 grains of grit per inch, etc...
Not covered in this video is the differences between wet sandpaper and dry sandpaper. For lower grit papers (40 - 200) you can usually use them dry because they're cutting larger particles of material and those simply fall away but when you move to higher grits (400 - 4000) those cut smaller and smaller particles which tend to get stuck to the paper and clog up the spaces between the cutting grains on the paper. So after an amount of time sanding, the paper tends to get coated with the material you're trying to sand away, so they stop working. But when you use wet sandpaper (as the name implies) you wet the paper with water which acts as a lubricant that washes the material off the paper as you work. You can rinse the wet sandpaper to clean it off periodically... if you try that with dry-use sandpaper, it will rip and fall apart like any other kind of paper. Wet-use sandpaper tends to be more expensive per sheet but because the wet-use sandpaper is more durable and you can clean it it's just as cost-effective as the dry use sandpaper. You're welcome.
This is awesome additional info, Ron!! We imagine it will be super helpful to our other makers!
Thanks for sharing this as I am trying to find an answer for this. Does always the higher number sandpapers are made to combined with water or it needs to be one that is made to combined with water?
Another addition on the video, is to be clarified the sandpapers and also the drills.
Can you use any sandpaper to the drill or if you drill has 4 or 8 holes ,your sandpapers needs to be with the same amount of holes? Have used a drill with halls but sanspapers without holes and has created a weirs blurry effect on some parts of the resin project
Thanks for taking the time to make this!
Every thing you need to know without complicating the process. Cheers lads.
Loved how you used iPad to aid in demonstration. As a beginner I appreciated the clear explanation and reasons why you do things a specific way.
It instilled in me how important sanding is. Propper sanding techniques can make or break your project,nobody likes to sand but it is very important. Im from JC Missouri, You SHOWED ME the right way to get the PERCECT results. I subscribed to your channel and keep the good advice comming. Thank you
So happy to hear that!
@AlumiliteCorporation when so you change sand paper??
@AlumiliteCorporation if I plane it do, I still have to sand it?
Went it gets coasted in dust and doesn't work as well anymore!@@bus1inyagirlsbut
planing it should be fine !
@@bus1inyagirlsbut
Great video. What’s your preferred polishing compound?
this was perfect! i’ve been doing resin for a few years now & have been doing projects that would require sanding. this was a great visual representation of what to expect!!! thank you!
Happy to help!
I just found your channel. This was an excellent video. I'm a woodworker and I carve custom wood signs using a hand held wood router as well as using a laser to create some of my other projects. I'm also the weird one in the group.....I LOVE SANDING!!! My best friend's Dad had an automotive body shop when I was young. I worked for him in the summers as a youth. Yep, I worked in the sanding department. I was taught early on that no matter how well the body men repaired the wrecked vehicles, if the paint job was second rate, the customers were not happy, I spent many hours learning to sand and learning to appreciate the affect sanding has on the finish of a project. I'm now 69 years old and I still love to sand! And now I'm a new subscriber for you. Thanks!!
This video just saved me! Thank you! I sanded down a top layer on a preservation block because there were micro bubbles. I used 36, 80, 150 and 220. Then I went to top coat it thinking it would be clear when I poured the resin. I was SO WRONG! Now I know that I just need to keep going up to 4000 and end with a polish. Phew!!! I feel so much better!!
HI Elizabeth, I was thinking of using similar grits to get rid of some imperfections before the flood coat. Did you ever redo your project with success and if so, can you share your techniques. Thanks
@@darlenestewart3149 I did exactly what I noted above. It worked.
That's what I believe I have now. My husband just took a small project over to his friend's upholstery shop to sand down something that would have taken me a long time to do. It looks beautiful! But when I put the alcohol on to clean it, it was still in that frosty looking state. I now have to find out what grit was the last so I can go from there. Or maybe he can do it for me LOL
Yeah alumilite hired the right guy! The tablet is a nice touch. Thanks
This was extremely helpful. I have had sanding epoxy explain to me many times but I could not for the life of me find out how to get that glossy finish, and what the different grits had to do with it. The way you explained the grit differences, the amount of epoxy sanded off, and the different finishes was a perfect and easily understood. Thank you so much for the instructional video!
I liked the TV portion. That put it into a better perspective for me. Thank you.
Timing for this video is great. I’m in the middle of making a table for a local fire department and it needs some sanding. Thanks
I like the idea/tv explaining with the real life combo. Very helpful.
Thanks so much! Amazing clear cast and your quick coat are the only epoxies I’ve ever used. No need to search around for others when you start with perfection 😊
Awesome! Thank you!
I love the way you explained this video it felt like a short video shown in class that you actually zone in and enjoy- like bill nye
Love this!! Been looking for a "sanding resin for idiot guide and you did it!! I've been doing a lot of projects but to be honest.. Sometimes they skip the final phase and that's when we mess up so thank you
I am a beginner and I absolutely loved this format. Very informative!!
Usually don't leave comments but I really liked the video
We're so glad to hear it! Thanks for watching!
Please keep doing things like this.
Perfectly Professionally Performed! Keep up the good work.
This was a cool break down thanks
Excellent video!!! I needed this info and the tv and presentation of the info was easy to understand at a perfect pace. I’m super impressed!
Awesome exploration man. Thank you for doing this video.
Thanks so much for this video. Do you have any that tell you when to use water when sanding?
The best sanding tips I ever seen, thank you so much 👏👏👏❤️
We're glad we could help!!
do I need to seal the appoxy after all the sanding and thanks for your video's very helpful
Hi,
What brand of polish is safe to use for epoxy resin?
Thank you!
Try our epoxy polish www.alumilite.com/epoxy-polish/
Love the new format!
We're glad to hear it Donna - thanks for the feedback!
Love this format. It us super helpful for Newbies like me. Thanks so much!
Glad it was helpful!
Hi, you're making extremely entertaining videos. More than that, great information!
I'm starting to work (professionaly) with microcement which I use to mix with an acrylic resin.
I love this product a lot, cause you can apply it everywhere, as long as the surface is in good condition and flattened. On top of that, you can create that beautiful weared 'stone' effect.
The downside of the story is that I'm sentitive to chemicals, especially to the fumes. I literally feel it somewhere in my lungs.
There are two options:
1) I quit chemicals forever and find an other way creating stuff with more ecological material. This will limit dramatically my array of projects (no bathroom, no floor,...)
2) Or I handle the chemicals in a very responsible way (also waste management!) and take advantage of their great properties.
I give the second option a shot.
What do you recommend when working with acrylic resins?
Thx!
Thank you for this. Makes it so much easier to understand for those of us that need to see things to learn. 🤣
Absolutely, love working with your products.
This was the perfect video I was looking for
Great video! So important so thanks for sharing?
You are so welcome!
With a new poured surface, that’s pretty darn close to perfect, but you want to work out a few waves or the odd dust spot, what grit would you suggest we be good to start at, would 4000 be sufficient and then go to polish?
And, does polish actually provide a layer of protection to the surface ergo, making something we should do even on a new surface?
I like your videos, you're very easy to understand!
Thanks for the feedback!
Thanks for the tips, help me a lot.
Good video! We are always up to learning new ways to present our projects! Go for it!!! We will be here as you move on! Take care!!!
We're glad you liked it! We'll definitely be bringing more content like this to UA-cam in the future!
You’re a funny man!! 😂 was just about to type “anchor man” 😆
Nice!!! Appreciated the visuals!!!! Liked how you explained why you can’t jump from 40 to 1000 grit. Question though: when to use water for wet sanding.
Great content and loved the format. Please keep sharing!
Do the direction of the scratches matter? If I hand sand a piece, can I go in any direction, maybe resulting in cross hatched marks, will they disappear with polishing?
if you continue with finer grits the scratches will go away. does not matter which direction.
Well done
Love the TV
Keep up the good work bro
This was really helpful! How long do you sand on each grit before moving up to the next one?
That's what I Wana know ☺️
@@dorispeterson9059 me too
Since no one answered us, I guess you do it until you don't feel the mistake,
So, this was my very first project I ever did using resin. I cut out a cross on the scroll saw. Then hollowed it out with the saw, kind of like a cookie cutter. I taped the bottom of it with blue painters tape and poured the resin in. The next day I went to take all the tape off and found out the resin leaked out the bottom and on the wood itself. After struggling to get it all off it looks like the sticky stuff on the tape also stayed on the resin. Now, is there any way I can clean this up? By the way I added some sparkles in the resin and even like it is when you hold it up to a light it looks pretty cool.
Have you tried using rubbing alcohol?
@AlumiliteCorporation No I haven't. How would I do that?
I would take a rag or paper towel and soak it in rubbing alcohol and try and get the tape residue off the resin that way
@@AlumiliteCorporation Thanks so much! I will give that a try!
@@AlumiliteCorporation I wish I could show you a picture of it. I was wondering if it's even possible to try and sand it. Especially with the wood all around the resin.
Good video, what compound do you use for polishing?
So what do u polish with? Is it the amazing clear coat high gloss? Or is there another product after that?
Thanks for the video. Does the type of sanding paper matter?
1.13. in you look like the news anchor I want to listen to, 😍 on the subject I'm interested in. I have only made a few ashtrays 😩 I made a rolling trap 🤦🏼♀️ got distracted & touched my surface like a muppet & left a 🌊 popping up on the back. It's cured & still in the mold (I left it in cause I have writing on the front to still fill & I didn't want to get dust in it. I bought a hand drill sanding tool off Amazon. But I also have good intuition & wet & dry black sand paper & resin varnish (that tbh I nearly never bought 🙄 some purchases are absolutely necessary). I've only tried 2 different resin brands, the first one was yellowish. I've repurchased the 2nd type because it's performance was amazing compared to the other, the brand is called Craft Resin. I've got asthma so I have a good respirator, goggles, an industrial fan my windows open & my extractor fan since I'm in my kitchen, but not killing my neighbours with fumes is always a good thing. That was a funky cube light. At some point I'll copy that for my nephew & niece & put paper around the outside to use as a story shadow box. Anyway thanks for the advice & ideas. I hope things are good at your end, stay blessed 💙💜🏴
Great illustrations 👌👌
this is great! the tv ipad is a great idea!
Love the content. on try number 3 figured I'd reach out...engraved a flag on some mahogany about 1/16th deep, for a podium/stand. First board...ultimately didn't put enough down to cover the grooves and the surface of the board, but it looked ok, except for the prickly bumps that caught the light and looked not so great. Figured I'd sand it down and replicate what I did on my test piece, well that didn't go well. The first sand was ok, but second pass I started seeing these white spots peppered across the surface. would'nt wipe off and the more I sanded the more appeared so I stopped tried to wipe with alcohol, and subsequently figured that they are the bubble channels that ended up filling with the dust from the sanding. I'd take it down to the wood but on the stars section, I don't have room. 2nd try I sealed with shellac x2, and poured. Started off good but in the deeper part of the engraving, I could s ee some bubbles so I applied the torch to the whole thing, but I think I ended up staying longer on one part and it "cooked" it. Acting quick I scraped off best I could the 1/8th in coat including the caked up cooked part to 8/10 success. A little texture left but nothing I don't think sanding would help. SOOOOOO...if you've read this part thanks, here's the questions...anything can be done with the small white spots? 2nd question is since I have a light surface coat...I think what I'm reading everywhere is to sand it, wipe it and pour a flood coat on it, wait a bit and use a heat gun? Anything I'm missing?
Thanks for this video!
Is it OK to use N95 mask as a respirator?
Thanks. Very clear to follow. What product do you use to polish? What if you’re resin also has wood?
And can you pour again over the polish
Thank you so much for this information. Loved your way of explainig sir!
Very helpful way of learning thank you👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽
I'm new to sanding epoxy. I learned that going up to 400 grit is good for high gloss finish, but can you give suggestions of the grit increments?
Great info sanding resin. What grit and process would I use on wood going from a Matt finish to a semi gloss or satin finish. On let’s say black walnut. Thank you.
Awesome this was very helpful!!! Thanks
Just the info I was looking for. Thanks
Thank you. I salute your work, really good 👏👏👏. Keep it up 🤜🤛
What sandpaper should i use for a small epoxy coffee table?
Thats a great work appreciated 👍 i need your suggestion, valuable precious advise for my projects. I am stuck with glossy shine finish. After sanding upto 2500 grit when i use alchole pad fir dust removal its perfectly alright but when i use cutting compound i came up with matt finish everytime and its giving me swear headach now since last 7 months. Awaiting your valuable response. Thanks
Great information 🦋
I just commented on Instagram earlier about this, but I use a Dremel. Like to see how one uses a Dremel for there resin projects
That a great video idea - we'll have to look into different applications with a Dremel!
Thanks for the tips!
Im making a coffee table and I stopped at 220grit and wondering why its so frosty ☃️
Totally dig it! Thank you! Please 🙏🏼keep ‘em coming
This was very informative as I'm sanding my first large piece and had no idea where to begin. Thank you
If I go up to 4000 then want to add ocean waves on my table I shouldn't use polish then correct?
Hey man, if I'm doing a clear deep pour in two pours, do I need to sand in between pours?
couple statement and a request
When choosing which grit to move to in woodworking the addage has always been ~50% higher than the previous grit within the realistic availability. so 40 to 60, 60 to 90 but 90 is less common so you jump 60-80 then 120, 180 etc adding in an extra step like 150 as you see fit.
Love the videos and totally miss the podcast to go along with maker monday.
One more detailed video that may be helpful is master prep. specifically you have mentioned in other videos about smoother masters give smoother casts. If you have tips of preparing different mold master materials that would be helpful. Like method of finishing a 3d print, wood or clay to give the smoothest mold and therefore the clearest casts
Do you have to begin at the 40 grit? How do you determine what grit to begin with?
Hey I love the new format with the screen!
Quick question, what do you use to seal your resin only projects to keep glossy after the polishing compound?
Right now I use Pledge Furniture polish after using Flitz polish.
We don't actually seal our projects after polishing - it's a pretty interesting concept. We'll have to look into it more!
@@AlumiliteCorporation Thank you for the reply! Let me know what comes of your research haha
What an amazing explanation keep it up
Great tutorial! Keep doing vids! Thank you!
Thanks, will do!
When should I sand after the first 24 hour curing or the second curing process? I'm creating a small neckless charm.
Sanding is typically done after the curing process is complete!
I really like your visual.. im not quite sure about starting with 40 grit, though.
what kind of power sander do you recommend. I have guys working on fiberglass joints for one week now, they can't seem to get it smooth yet. Any suggestions?
What do you recommend for polish? I am working on my first project and it’s almost set so I should be able to start sanding I hope tomorrow.
Great video ! Keep it up
By polish do u mean top coat of the epoxy or polish is something else i don't know of ? Also if we don't use polish and simply top coat it with resin what result would that give after Sanding with lower grit and/or higher grit ?
Best tips video, really great
Nice , thanks for information , but a question, whay i see some people use water ?
What is a polishing compound and can I put my new coat of resin directly over it or do I need to clean it after that application first?
Thank you!!
Deborah
May I ask if the type of polish matters? Can I use metal polish?
great format
Great explanation, thanks.
Thanks for watching!
What type of polish is needed for small resin projects??
very helpful. thank you!
So helpful! Thank you!
Hi, just came across your channel and I love that you do some more technical explanations when it comes to resins. I've been wondering about getting refraction effects into resins and would love to hear your take/ideas for it. Are there epoxys with enough difference in refractive index to be visible once poured together? Or do you have to use other clear materials? E.g. I've seen people use clear silicone as fake ice inside of resin. But what if you wanted to do clearly visible refraction plane somewhere inside the resin? You'd have to pour layers of material with the different refractive indices, not sure if that would work with a layer of silicone and resin. And what if you wanted to do swirls?
If I did a deep pour of resin (a 4in serving tray) and the surface is already smooth, is it necessary to sand before polishing? Should I still work up to 4,000 grit to get the most shine? Or just skip to polish?
To what gritt do you recommend sanding if i want to add clear coat instead of polishing?
Hi. Thanks for the video. I have a question regarding the selectable speed of my orbital sander. It goes from 1 to 5 an I’d like to know what’s (according to you) the best speed to select for each grid and for the polishing. Thanks a lot in advance.
Excellent video
Great video
I’m making and cutting some designs into wood and filling it in with epoxy but I’m installing LEDs underneath the epoxy designs to kind of light up the designs. Where should I stop grit wise for the best outcome?