Nice work so far! Just remember that the staining on top of the wing for a B-17 comes from an oil breather tube, engine damage, possible engine fire, and not exhaust. The exhaust for all four engines is on the bottom of the wing. Those radials leaked a fair amount of oil, so over many hours of use, it spread and caused quite a lot of staining. Modern B-17's are taken care of and wiped down after each flight or each day of flying. That is why we don't see quite the same amount of staining. ALSO remember that the vents behind each engine (four vents for each engine) are hot air vents and not exhaust vents, so staining trailing from each vent is almost non existent. Keep up the good work, I look forward to seeing how your B-17 turns out.
Great job on that paint scheme!As an armour modeler,I never find my self painting such a large surface,and this impressive due to shear scale! I always preffered the brown B-17s over the green ones and this definitely skuter my preference.Thanks Hank!
As an aircraft buff, thanks so so much for this series! Can''t wait to see your follow up vids. I've been building kits for years, but always open to new and exciting techniques! :) You're an inspiration to new builders, as well as older ones like me- thx for keeping it so simple and easy to understand! :)
Nicely done. I was hoping you were doing a full on bare metal finish, as I am working towards building a particular B17G that my daughters grandpa piloted during WW2. Do you by chance have a video on the bare metal technique? How would chipping work on that? Of the 1/72 kits out there which would you recommend? Im leaning towards the airfix one as it has the offset waist gun positions of the later model B17G. Lastly, do you have a good spurce for custom decals? I am not nearly good enough to reproduce the nose art in particular, but ideally would get a full set for the aircraft in question. Your other video on unit markings was very helpful in this project by the way. Thanks for that.
Great work, I’m getting ready to paint my B17 just looking at photos it seem the main exhaust comes out underneath the engine from what looks like a exhaust turbine but it also looks like some exhaust comes out of the opening on top of wing or is that from dirt and grime? Please help lol
Hi Hank. Just got back into the hobby after about 20 yrs. I haven't built a plane or armor in as many. I've just received my Eduard Limited Edition B-17 The Bloody 100th 1/48 kit. Q: There's a lot of detail in the interior, cockpit, radio room, bomb bay, etc. It seems once assembled, painted and detailed, that these interiors will be mostly hidden once I put the fuselage together. Am I missing something?
Sorry to ask an off-topic question, but where did you find the wall-mounted helmet holders on your wall? That is a great way to display my collection, but I've had no luck finding such a thing as your hardware. Thank you. (and I very much enjoy your channel)
Is the 1/48 B17 still available today? Monogram is the only maker that I can recall. I built this kit 20+ years ago in dark olive drab and it's hanging in our hobby room between two 1/48 C47 Skytrains....
Nicely done. The only thing I might "alter" (and its just a quibble really) is to substitute Nato Black for the Flat or other standard Black.. And that is only because of the oft debated "scale effect". Standard blacks are often...well...too black. For me Nato Black seems to give a really really dark Grey/Black. I think I picked this tip up from Phil Flory on his site years ago. Nice job...I'll be sure to keep watching your B-17 series. Looking forward to Master's of the Air (although I have a few concerns after watching the trailer). Keep on keeping on.
Hank, I'm reluctant to get started with the airbrush because of all the dire warnings and exigent precautions that are recommended. Ventilation hoods, respirators, a separate room; is all that necessary?
Hey there - now I can't give any surefire advice as I'm not a doctor or expert in reparatory function, but I've been airbrushing for years with only a quality respirator, a fan on & a window open. I have yet to have any issues - but please take that with a grain of salt! I don't feel that a ventilation hood is necessary if you've got decent airflow in your space & wear a mask 👍
I would say that the precaution would be more true for lacquer paints. If you use water based acrylics like Vallejo, AK, Ammo, or Mission Models you are more secure in terms of solvents. It is still a good idea to at least have a window open during or after a paint session and/or wear a respirator, especially if you are in a small space. But this is the reason I don't use lacquer paints yet, as I don't have the appropriate gear.
Agreed with the previous two responses. I airbrush acrylics with nothing more than a dust mask and desk fan pointed towards an open window next to where I spray.
Paint is generally always thinned when airbrushed. To keep the “with what” simple use the thinner for the brand of paint you are using. As you gain experience you will learn what custom or alter brand thinners will work with which paint. Some thinners work for most, then one brand it will turn it to putty or cause other issues. There are paints you don’t need to thin before brushing, but they generally specify on the bottle. Even then most can still be thinned for different effect. As a general rule, if you buy a standard Tamiya, AK real, Mr paint etc pod if you top the new pod off with the brand thinner that’s a good ratio.
The reason the panel’s have different hugh’s because of different thickness, armour, sunlight and weather such as sand whipped by wind, panels walked on and so on. Therefore if you want to be realistic, look for the panels and go to town.
This thing is so cool man. As a beginner to the hobby with little space, I'm wondering how careful I need to be about airbrushing? I can't afford to get a booth but my table is next to a window and I of course would wear a respirator- is this good enough to get into airbrushing without harming myself? I'd think if the room reeks of chemicals/paint, give it a while to dissipate but how hazardous is this stuff in terms of lingering around and harming you?
I don't have a paint booth either but a respirator when airbrushing is a must. Good thing you have one. The days of oil based paints has pretty well seen the sunset and the vast majority of paint available now are acrylic which is pretty safe. I think you will be just fine with your air brushing.
Hey, the model looks great at the end! I wasn't sure at first where you were going with all this different colors but it made sense in the end. I have another one of those "dumb questions" as for painting. I've decided to go down the AMMO MIG rabbit hole as these paints seem to be the most noob-friendly. Is it normal for the paint job to look different when using the same paint (e.g. Dunkelgrau) when spray from an airbrush and when brushed by hand? I find that when I brush by hand the coat looks a bit more pale. Also, do you thin the AMMO MIG paints with Tamiya acrylic thinner, water or not at all? Again, sorry for carpet bombing you with noob questions at every opportunity.
Thank you! And no worries - no such thing as a bad question. I really do enjoy my AMMO MIG paints; they're quite user-friendly, and one of the reasons for that is you shouldn't need to thin them at all before use! I don't & they've worked well so far for me. I generally spray at between 22-30psi without thinner & that's proven to be a decent formula for me. As for the brush vs airbrush, I do think they tend to go down differently as well. A good rule of thumb is to stick to the airbrush-specific paints for spraying & brush-formulated paints (a little thicker) for brushing. Hope that helps - happy building!
@@SpruesNBrews Thank you for this speedy answer! I'll try that recipe with the next model - the Italeri Pacific theatre Sherman. Just finishing off the Tamiya Jagdpanther with AK Gauzy agent, decals, some weathering etc 🙂
@@SpruesNBrews, Thanks! I knew it! I built the same kit some months ago. Very satisfying even though it required some fitting work. I made a simple diorama with it. This is the link to the short video ua-cam.com/users/shortsPo10RkS_ljw?si=p7pTs5KXwhMmr2Iz
And I'm sure, offcamera he is holding the B17 up in the air, runs through the room, goes Bbbbbbbrrrrrrrrr and Ratatatatatatatatatatata!!! How do i know? Because i would do so🤣
@@SpruesNBrews How I said, I do the same. My son liked Cobi really much and we loved to play with the planes...i always played tough...but in the end I loved to run around with my son and go bbbbrrrrrr and ratatatatat🤣
Nice work but not accurate. Most B-17s flew less than 25 missions, not enough for the paint to peel off. Also, paint tends to fade before it peels unlike Japanese planes.
Oh boyyy - coming in hot, my friend! So - the B-17 I'm working on (as I mentioned in the video) was a combat veteran; she got her crews through more than 100 missions before she was scrapped. I have a reference book of WWII original full-color photographs and in many of the shots of war-weary B-17s, B-26s, etc., the chipping is not only present, but pretty aggressive. These gals took a real beating & definitely did chip. Trust me - I try to do my homework before I make these videos 😉
To the OP. Crews may have on average flown less than 25 missions, but their aircraft soldiered on until shot down, written-off from battle damage, or just plain worn out.
Nice work so far! Just remember that the staining on top of the wing for a B-17 comes from an oil breather tube, engine damage, possible engine fire, and not exhaust. The exhaust for all four engines is on the bottom of the wing. Those radials leaked a fair amount of oil, so over many hours of use, it spread and caused quite a lot of staining.
Modern B-17's are taken care of and wiped down after each flight or each day of flying. That is why we don't see quite the same amount of staining. ALSO remember that the vents behind each engine (four vents for each engine) are hot air vents and not exhaust vents, so staining trailing from each vent is almost non existent.
Keep up the good work, I look forward to seeing how your B-17 turns out.
Watching 12 o'clock high as a kid got my interest in the B-17
This video is a gem. I just started assembling B-17 with hope to take it on modelling show.
Thanks so much! Good luck and happy building!
Great job on that paint scheme!As an armour modeler,I never find my self painting such a large surface,and this impressive due to shear scale! I always preffered the brown B-17s over the green ones and this definitely skuter my preference.Thanks Hank!
Thanks very much! I appreciate it!
Which group flew the brown B17s?
As an aircraft buff, thanks so so much for this series! Can''t wait to see your follow up vids. I've been building kits for years, but always open to new and exciting techniques! :) You're an inspiration to new builders, as well as older ones like me- thx for keeping it so simple and easy to understand! :)
I'm getting ready to do a 2 1/48 scale B17 g to pay tribute to the 2 we lost earlier this year
Just got the 1/72 Academy “E” Pacific kit. Can’t wait to start! One day I’ll do the big HK kit when I get good with my airbrush, one day…
Glad to see an aircraft.
Glad to hear it!!
Very cool video, as always. I'm looking foward for one of my B17's I have in my storage😅
Greetings from Berlin, Germany
Ah lovely - enjoy!
Currently working on a academy 1 72 scale, so far, a very nice kit
Amazing work, can’t wait to start work on one. What ratio are you using the Mig paint and what do you cut it with please? Thank you
Excelentes técnicas y muy buen video
what a beautiful beast 💪😍🙌
Thank you!! 👍
Nicely done.
I was hoping you were doing a full on bare metal finish, as I am working towards building a particular B17G that my daughters grandpa piloted during WW2.
Do you by chance have a video on the bare metal technique? How would chipping work on that?
Of the 1/72 kits out there which would you recommend? Im leaning towards the airfix one as it has the offset waist gun positions of the later model B17G.
Lastly, do you have a good spurce for custom decals? I am not nearly good enough to reproduce the nose art in particular, but ideally would get a full set for the aircraft in question.
Your other video on unit markings was very helpful in this project by the way. Thanks for that.
Did you ever make the video on the exhaust staining on the wings?
Great work, I’m getting ready to paint my B17 just looking at photos it seem the main exhaust comes out underneath the engine from what looks like a exhaust turbine but it also looks like some exhaust comes out of the opening on top of wing or is that from dirt and grime? Please help lol
You’re awesome for this. Painting tutorials are always a pleasure to watch. Just curious, what airbrush are you using?
Great video
Hi Hank. Just got back into the hobby after about 20 yrs. I haven't built a plane or armor in as many. I've just received my Eduard Limited Edition B-17 The Bloody 100th 1/48 kit. Q: There's a lot of detail in the interior, cockpit, radio room, bomb bay, etc. It seems once assembled, painted and detailed, that these interiors will be mostly hidden once I put the fuselage together. Am I missing something?
Hi Hank - Are there any brands or formulas of hairspray that make weathering more difficult? Any you'd recommend I stay away from? Thanks!
Hi mate, where did you get that painting stand from? Looks great btw!
If starting from scratch, after primer and aluminium do you then clear coat or go straight on with olive drab? Thanks
Hank going full iconic mod
Ha! 😅
Sorry to ask an off-topic question, but where did you find the wall-mounted helmet holders on your wall? That is a great way to display my collection, but I've had no luck finding such a thing as your hardware. Thank you. (and I very much enjoy your channel)
Is the 1/48 B17 still available today? Monogram is the only maker that I can recall. I built this kit 20+ years ago in dark olive drab and it's hanging in our hobby room between two 1/48 C47 Skytrains....
Nicely done. The only thing I might "alter" (and its just a quibble really) is to substitute Nato Black for the Flat or other standard Black.. And that is only because of the oft debated "scale effect". Standard blacks are often...well...too black. For me Nato Black seems to give a really really dark Grey/Black. I think I picked this tip up from Phil Flory on his site years ago. Nice job...I'll be sure to keep watching your B-17 series. Looking forward to Master's of the Air (although I have a few concerns after watching the trailer). Keep on keeping on.
Hank, I'm reluctant to get started with the airbrush because of all the dire warnings and exigent precautions that are recommended. Ventilation hoods, respirators, a separate room; is all that necessary?
Hey there - now I can't give any surefire advice as I'm not a doctor or expert in reparatory function, but I've been airbrushing for years with only a quality respirator, a fan on & a window open. I have yet to have any issues - but please take that with a grain of salt!
I don't feel that a ventilation hood is necessary if you've got decent airflow in your space & wear a mask 👍
I would say that the precaution would be more true for lacquer paints. If you use water based acrylics like Vallejo, AK, Ammo, or Mission Models you are more secure in terms of solvents. It is still a good idea to at least have a window open during or after a paint session and/or wear a respirator, especially if you are in a small space.
But this is the reason I don't use lacquer paints yet, as I don't have the appropriate gear.
Ditto to that point! I stick to acrylics & enamels - lacquers can get a little testy on the safety front, by my understanding.
Agreed with the previous two responses. I airbrush acrylics with nothing more than a dust mask and desk fan pointed towards an open window next to where I spray.
Fantastic work Hank. I’m still pretty new so forgive a stupid question; are you thinning your paints; how much and with what? Cheers!
Paint is generally always thinned when airbrushed. To keep the “with what” simple use the thinner for the brand of paint you are using. As you gain experience you will learn what custom or alter brand thinners will work with which paint. Some thinners work for most, then one brand it will turn it to putty or cause other issues.
There are paints you don’t need to thin before brushing, but they generally specify on the bottle. Even then most can still be thinned for different effect.
As a general rule, if you buy a standard Tamiya, AK real, Mr paint etc pod if you top the new pod off with the brand thinner that’s a good ratio.
that coat looks amazing! where’s you find it?
The reason the panel’s have different hugh’s because of different thickness, armour, sunlight and weather such as sand whipped by wind, panels walked on and so on. Therefore if you want to be realistic, look for the panels and go to town.
This thing is so cool man. As a beginner to the hobby with little space, I'm wondering how careful I need to be about airbrushing? I can't afford to get a booth but my table is next to a window and I of course would wear a respirator- is this good enough to get into airbrushing without harming myself? I'd think if the room reeks of chemicals/paint, give it a while to dissipate but how hazardous is this stuff in terms of lingering around and harming you?
I don't have a paint booth either but a respirator when airbrushing is a must. Good thing you have one.
The days of oil based paints has pretty well seen the sunset and the vast majority of paint available now are acrylic which is pretty safe.
I think you will be just fine with your air brushing.
Hey, the model looks great at the end! I wasn't sure at first where you were going with all this different colors but it made sense in the end. I have another one of those "dumb questions" as for painting. I've decided to go down the AMMO MIG rabbit hole as these paints seem to be the most noob-friendly. Is it normal for the paint job to look different when using the same paint (e.g. Dunkelgrau) when spray from an airbrush and when brushed by hand? I find that when I brush by hand the coat looks a bit more pale. Also, do you thin the AMMO MIG paints with Tamiya acrylic thinner, water or not at all? Again, sorry for carpet bombing you with noob questions at every opportunity.
Thank you! And no worries - no such thing as a bad question. I really do enjoy my AMMO MIG paints; they're quite user-friendly, and one of the reasons for that is you shouldn't need to thin them at all before use! I don't & they've worked well so far for me. I generally spray at between 22-30psi without thinner & that's proven to be a decent formula for me.
As for the brush vs airbrush, I do think they tend to go down differently as well. A good rule of thumb is to stick to the airbrush-specific paints for spraying & brush-formulated paints (a little thicker) for brushing.
Hope that helps - happy building!
@@SpruesNBrews Thank you for this speedy answer! I'll try that recipe with the next model - the Italeri Pacific theatre Sherman. Just finishing off the Tamiya Jagdpanther with AK Gauzy agent, decals, some weathering etc 🙂
How do you do bullet holes
Very, very nice! Is your B-17 the Monogram one?
It is! A classic!
@@SpruesNBrews, Thanks! I knew it! I built the same kit some months ago. Very satisfying even though it required some fitting work. I made a simple diorama with it. This is the link to the short video ua-cam.com/users/shortsPo10RkS_ljw?si=p7pTs5KXwhMmr2Iz
Resto mod?😳
Jman
That Mig paint is the SHIT. I can’t airbrush with anything else after using it.
And I'm sure, offcamera he is holding the B17 up in the air, runs through the room, goes Bbbbbbbrrrrrrrrr and Ratatatatatatatatatatata!!!
How do i know? Because i would do so🤣
Haha how'd you know?? 😅
@@SpruesNBrews How I said, I do the same. My son liked Cobi really much and we loved to play with the planes...i always played tough...but in the end I loved to run around with my son and go bbbbrrrrrr and ratatatatat🤣
A great demonstration of how not to airbrush. Painful! 🤔
What a nice comment - thank you so much!
Nice work but not accurate. Most B-17s flew less than 25 missions, not enough for the paint to peel off. Also, paint tends to fade before it peels unlike Japanese planes.
🤓🤓
Oh boyyy - coming in hot, my friend! So - the B-17 I'm working on (as I mentioned in the video) was a combat veteran; she got her crews through more than 100 missions before she was scrapped. I have a reference book of WWII original full-color photographs and in many of the shots of war-weary B-17s, B-26s, etc., the chipping is not only present, but pretty aggressive. These gals took a real beating & definitely did chip.
Trust me - I try to do my homework before I make these videos 😉
To the OP. Crews may have on average flown less than 25 missions, but their aircraft soldiered on until shot down, written-off from battle damage, or just plain worn out.
@@SpruesNBrews
I guess the OP has never seen a photo of Flak Bait. 😊
@@Chilly_Billy I once saw her nose in the National Air and Space museum :)
Hasn't she been completely restored by now? anyone know?