Glad to hear that you enjoyed the show. Thanks for tuning in and if you have any questions at all, feel free to ask and I will do my best to help you out.
I really appreciated the non-nonsense approach, and the emphasis on PERSONAL PROTECTIVE EQUIPMENT!!! :) Very good explanation of how a jointer works... very responsibly done!
I've been watching a lot of videos on how to use a jointer and I must say you explained it in the most clear and concise way, well done. Thank you for the video!
canadianbeech Glad you enjoyed it. I try to make the show a little on the lighter side. Not everything should be so serious. Thanks for tuning in and thanks for taking the time to drop me a comment. It's appreciated.
Really well done, and thanks for the emphasis on safety. Your explanation of why and how to use the jointer is the best I've seen--thanks for that practical and good thinking!
Thank you for the kind words on the show. I'm glad that you found it useful. If you have any questions at all, please feel free to ask as I'd be more than happy to help you out if I can. Thank you for tuning in to the show.
Im glad that I watched this. I have a relatively new jointer and I now see that I was putting pressure on the infeed side.....tapered board, drove me nuts. Tried a few passes using your instructions...VICTORY!!!! Flat surface..ready for the thickness planer. I use a lot of home dried wood (maple and walnut) for turning, so a precise glue line is important to a quality finish...aka, no visible glue line. Thanks for posting this. Putting your vids in my fav folder.
Great video. I have just bought a jointer and this has given me a really good insight into how to use it properly. Really impressed with the clear instruction and video. Many thanks and I now look forward to using my jointer properly.
You're very welcome Alan, I'm glad that the show helped you. On my program, I try to help as many people as I can in the best way that I know how. It's for that reason that I don't monetize my show. I have no desire to make money from something that i love to do. So with that in mind, if you have any questions at all, please feel free to ask and I would be more than happy to help you out if I can. Thanks for tuning in and for taking the time to leave me a comment. I truly do appreciate it.
Glad to hear that you enjoyed the show Cayvman. Thanks for tuning in and for taking the time to leave me a comment. If you have any questions, please don't hesitate to ask.
+Rattlecan Guitar Restorations I'm glad that you found it. Technique is the key to getting good results with a jointer. It might take a while to get the hang of it, but you'll get it, just like the rest of us did. Good luck with the new tool and thanks for taking the time to leave a comment on the show.
MrGtownjake I know folks that have done it believe it or not. It's a horrible thought, but it does happen because people feel the need to remove the guard. Thanks for tuning in and thanks for your comment on the show.
+Jim Meyer You're very welcome. I'm glad that you enjoyed it. Hopefully, it will help any new jointer owners to achieve some good results with their jointer.
Hi Kenny and everyone. I am a probie and think your video is extremely useful. Thank you so much. I am sorry that the video had about 0.006759% negative feedback. Well, the last time i checked, 99.993241% is ...pretty damn impressive (not just in woodworking, but in everything else in life). To me, if the video gives me information that I didn't know, i will take the info and be thankful. If the video gives me information that confirms things I already know, I will be thankful because it is actually a "gain" for me as well. Please continue to make more videos like this one.
Thanks for the kind words on the show. My theory has always been that if the video is helpful to one person, then it was worth the time it took to film, edit and post it. Thanks for tuning in to the show and thanks for taking the time to leave me a comment. I appreciate it.
Excellent explanation.! Tank you. Even I that speak english as a second language understood evry thing .Oh, your english is very clear. Greetings from México.
Thank you very much. I'm glad that you enjoyed the show and that you were able to understand it all. If you have any questions, please feel free to ask. I'd be more than happy to help you out if I can.
Hi Nick. The straight edge that I am using is the steel milled straight edge from Lee Valley. It comes in 3 different sizes and I find them to be very useful in the shop.
hi love your videos and now realise exactly what I was doing wrong results improved first time around I'm going to make my first video next week on my recycled shop keep up the great instructions
+STEVE LOADER That's awesome. Glad to hear that the video helped you out. Let me know when you get your first video up and running. I'd love to check it out. Thanks for tuning in.
Thanks for the kind words Kirk. A new show is uploaded every Friday and I hope that you will become a regular viewer of the show. Feel free to ask any questions you like and I will do my best to help you in any way I can. Thanks for tuning in.
Thank you for posting this GREAT video, largely self taught amateur here, and I definitely learned some things, makes sense why my last few projects involving my benchtop jointer had issues, I now understand I was doing it wrong, can't wait for this weekend so I can try the right technique lol!
You're very welcome Jeison. I'm glad that the show was helpful to you. The jointer can be a frustrating thing if not used properly but hopefully, now you will have no problems at all. Thanks for tuning in and for taking the time to leave me a comment. I appreciate it.
I make myself laugh too Barbara. Glad that you enjoyed the show. Thanks for tuning in and if you have any questions at all, please don't hesitate to ask. I'd be more than happy to help you out if I can.
Excellent and sound advice for anyone with a planer, planer/thicknesser. I know when wearing ear protection it is quite difficult to hear subtle changes as the timber passes over the blades, but with experience you can hear the blades missing the timber if it has a bow in it, if your technique is correct.
Definitely. Sound is a big part of using any power tool and with experience, those sounds will become a natural thing for you to listen to for obtaining good results. Thanks for the extra input. Great point!!!
Really helpful - thank you. I got so frustrated last night trying to joint a 3/4" piece of oak (it just kept getting more and more bowed!) but after watching your method, I'm going to try again. I think I was pushing down while it was over the cutter head.
+Greg Smith Good luck. If you have any questions, feel free to ask and I will do my best to help you out. I'm glad to hear that the video was helpful to you.
thank you so much Kenny . i am retired and have embarked in wood working no experience in wood . have 10 yrs as machinists , 20 electronics bench test and 11 as a corrections officer ( who knew you do what you can to feed the family right ) any way i want to learn to build guitars ( lol ) so i watch all the wood working i can . again thank you for all the info
You're very welcome Dennis. Glad to hear that you found the show useful and that you enjoyed it. Feel free to ask any questions that you might have and I will do my best to help you out in any way I can. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
I have heard that for face jointing long boards the purpose of the jointer is different. For long board, the purpose of the jointer to face joint is to establish enough high points on one face so that the board does not rock with going thru a thickness planer. The planer actually does the planing for BOTH sides; the jointer is just the preliminary for the faces.
I have to say, that I'm not really in agreement with your statement here. Although preventing the stock from rocking is a method to use when you wish to use your thickness planer as a jointer, I truthfully don't think that it is the jointer's purpose to accomplish this. It is an interesting concept though and if it works for you and your shop, then that's great. Thanks for chiming in on the show and providing us with your theories. It's appreciated.
I'm watching part 1 of your workbench build right now. That bench may take more than "an army of 15" to move! Yes, that's why they call it a workbench. LOL!
Good morning Kenny. I just bought a small used Delta bench top jointer last week and that was the first time I ever operate a jointer. As expected for the first time user, the result was far from perfect. I followed your instruction and the result was 100 times better. I will keep practicing until it is perfect. I have a couple questions for you. How do we know it is time for a new blade? Can the blade be sharpened? Thank you much!
Glad to hear that you enjoyed the show and that it was useful to you. The blades should be cutting the wood with no effort what so ever. If there is any burning of the stock, chances are it is time to hone your blades. You can hone (sharpen) jointer blades. It is a special stone that is used to hone the edge and you should be careful to hone each blade equally. For example, if you drag the stone across one blade 10 times, you must do the exact same thing to all other blades. If you google "jointer honing stone" you will be able to see that stone type that I am talking about.
There are good days and bad days with the hand and I have been lucky enough to have quite a few good days lately so I'm okay with that. Thanks for the kind words and for tuning in to the show. I appreciate it.
Hi Kenny I have had to pack up work due to ill health but I needed something to keep my brain cells working I always loved woodwork so I bought myself a nice big shed and a load of tools one of these tools is a jointer/planner combi but having trouble getting the jointer set up what I mean is getting square faces your video is so good mate any advice by you and any other woodworkers would be a big help thank you so much atb Barry
I guess my first question Barry would be what results are you getting when you are trying to joint the boards. The first step in figuring out the problem is knowing what the problem is.
Very informative video. Question; what is the name of the box you used to confirm that the tables and fence are perpendicular? Thanks and please keep up the instructive videos.
That tool would be the Tiltbox from the Beall tool company Jerry. It's great for checking saw blades, drilling angles etc. I love it. Here's a link. www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/hand-tools/marking-and-measuring/67350-tilt-box-ii-digital-inclinometer-for-tool-setting I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
I finally got my table co-plane,,,, perfecto! So I was a happy guy to say the least. I will confess: taking apart the jointer, removing the infeed table to have it machined to half of 1/1000, (it was off by 35/1000) and then reassembling the entire machine,, "all by myself" was a challenge to say the lest. My lack of patience only adds to my problems. Ive got my fence tuned right in at 90* to the table but for some reason after planning the face then the side of a 2" X 4" X 5', the corner is NOT exactly 90*. The head scratching starts! Could this be due to one of my knives being too high? Any advice? thanks a lot.
I would be double checking that the infeed and the outfeed tables are both square to the fence. I would also be careful not to be placing too much pressure on the fence while feeding the stock. Some fences can shift a little bit if you apply too much pressure. This is not the case with mine, but it may be with yours. Also, as you stated, I would make sure that all blades are parallel to the infeed and outfeed tables. It only takes one blade to be out of alignment to change the square of the stock. Glad to hear that you got the table coplanar. That's some serious dedication to go the extra mile of milling rather than just shimming. Good for you Rob.
What if the board is three times as long as the infeed table, and the curvature of the concave is greater than the depth of cut? For long and much concaved board, other considerations must be taken. For this type of board, I joint the convex side. I use a straight edge (extruded AL) to ID the most convex part and remove that part first. I find final jointing with greater depth a way to overcome these problem after removing the worse convex part. If the dept of cut is great enough, the board with hug the outfeed table thru-out without the board even touching the infeed table half way of the cut or sooner .
If this method works for you, then that's fantastic. This video was intended to assist those who were having issues with their jointer producing surfaces that were not flat. It wasn't meant to cover all aspects of jointing for sure. Thanks for the input on your method of choice when using the jointer. I'm sure that it will be useful to some of the viewers.
Great vid I am having an issue when face planning it is coming out slanted. I was putting down pressure on both the infeed and outfeed table. I will try to just do it on the outfeed and see if that helps. What is the digital box you used to check for square?
+Larry Brassard The digital box is called a Tilt Box and is made by Beale. You can find them at most woodworking stores. I bought mine at Lee Valley Tools. Here's a link. www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=67350&cat=1,43513 Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Good video. Can you still use the jointer for very long boards? It seems like a board longer than the surface area of the jointer could still tend to move and not give you a perfectly flat edge. I am working to join two 96" boards. I tried use a Track Saw but I am still not happy with the results.
You can use a jointer for longer boards. Depending on how long the board is, you may need extra support on the out-feed side of the jointer that is the exact same height as the existing out-feed table. For the most part though, the flat surfaces of the board well eventually get longer and support the board enough that the jointing can continue. If you have already used a track saw, this would provide a pretty straight edge on its own and the jointer could just finish off this edge and fine tune it so to speak. I hope this has helped you out Robert and thanks for tuning in to the show.
Great video, thanks for the tips! I realize I'm a little late in commenting so hopefully you still see this. I have had my grizzly 8" jointer for several weeks and am getting used to it. I am having problems jointing the face of a long board (72"). After watching this video I think I need to put more pressure on the outfeed table. But the problem I'm having is that the 72" x 7" x 1" board does not stay down on the spiral cutter head evenly and creates ridges across the width of the board. Any tips on jointing the face of a long board?
Ryan Garritson An auxiliary outfeed table with rollers to help support the longer boards is very helpful. They will allow you to concentrate on placing the downward pressure on the stock instead of trying to hold the stock down. Also, if you are getting ridges across the width of the board, you may be feeding your stock too quickly. Slow down your feed and let the cutters do their job. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Great video, but I have one question. How would you do it with long board on smaller jointer, how would you distribute pressure on outfeed table then and how would you support parts of the board that aren't on jointer?
Thanks for the kind words on the show Kenan. When using a smaller jointer, it is possible to do larger boards. You would need something to support your stock at the in-feed and out-feed side of your jointer. Something like a roller support. It has to be set at the same height as the table that it is placed at. So the in-feed support has to be the exact same height as the in-feed table and the out-feed support has to be the exact same height as the out-feed table. Basically, by adding roller supports, you are extending you jointer bed. Another method is to install your jointer in such a way that you can build in-feed and out-feed tables out of wood that will extend the jointer beds. This is a little more extreme but works well. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in.
The two foot board was simply for demonstration purposes only. I have had issues with longer boards as well. The problem is that if you have your board set properly (concave side facing the jointer bed) then the leading edge of the board falls off the planer bed before the back end can register against the blades and this causes serious issues. I have been able to combat this with an auxiliary outfeed table that is the exact height as the outfeed table of the jointer. This gives the extra support needed to work on the piece. I have also (while it is not exactly the best method) ran the board into the jointer blades until it no longer makes contact. Then I rotate the board end on end and plane the opposite end of the board; running it into the blade until it no longer makes contact. I continue this process which lengthens the amount of stock that is contacting the jointer bed on each end of the board and it lessens the length of the void in the middle which is not contacting the bed. What this does, is eventually it give enough flat surface at either end to be able to run the board normally through the jointer and maintain enough contact to allow the outfeed table to do it job and support the piece. I have only used this method on longer, very problematic boards but I have had some success with it. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in
Awesome video, thank you. I'm curious about a few things you may be able to help me with, and may make good videos for others as well. I am very new to using a jointer and am using a fairly small machine. A lot of my boards are pretty long, and I find myself having to move my body and reposition my arms and grip frequently. Is there a good way of doing long boards or are there good tools for doing this? I also would like to use the jointer on 1 inch by 1 inch pieces of wood. Is that too small and dangerous and should I not bother? Or again do you have a good method for doing these types of thin pieces with good hand tools?
That's a lot of questions Casey. ha ha ha ha ha ha. I'll start with the longer boards. I have found that longer boards are better suits for the larger machines. However, you can set up an auxiliary out feed roller at the end of the out feed table to help support the stock as it comes out of the jointer. The problem is, that the out feed rollers have to be the exact (stressing exact here) same height as the out feed table. Otherwise, you will cause problems with your flat surfaces. Smaller pieces like the 1" X 1" pieces are just fine to do on a jointer as long as you are using push pads and not your hands. You will also want to make sure that all your safety guards are in place and in good working order. There is a way to do jointing on a router table and I have produced a video on the channel to show you how to do this. ua-cam.com/video/fdHvU-IeEJU/v-deo.html With the proper safety gear, I don't think that the pieces that you are asking about are much of a risk on the jointer. I will give this one other piece of advice. If it doesn't feel right or you aren't comfortable with doing something, DON'T DO IT!!!! You brain is telling you that there is something wrong or that there is something that you could do a little safer.
The device you are asking about Scot is called a Tilt box. They are a little pricey but are worth their weight in gold. They are fantastic for any job where you need to set a tool to a specific angle. They are available at most woodworking suppliers. I got mine at Lee Valley. Here's the link. www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/hand-tools/marking-and-measuring/67350-tilt-box-ii-digital-inclinometer-for-tool-setting Thanks for tuning in. I hope this helps.
you should never use pressure at any given time, let the cutter head do the job (assuming you have sharp blades), the weight of the wood is sufficient. use your push sticks only to push the wood through.
While I agree that you don't need to place excessive pressure on the board you are jointing, the emphasis what placed of applying pressure on the out-feed table because most folks were applying pressure on the in-feed table causing them to get concave results. I'm not talking about hundreds of pounds of force here, but just enough to keep the board from firing back at you from the directional force of the spinning blades. Pressure is still required to prevent this.
This show was primarily about the general usage and technique needed when using a jointer. Obviously, it can't cover every scenario. Thanks for tuning in.
Hi Ken, Ive a delta DJ20/8", just had the infeed table machined, shes perfect now, same as the outfeed. Ive been following this system to set co-plane of both tables where you start by setting the outfeed 15/1000 above the cutterhead, then do same with the infeed. The outfeed is set perfectly as is the cutterhead end of the infeed table but the start end of the infeed table,(opposite the cutterhead), just wont raise high enough to match the 15/1000 everywhere else. Even with the cams turned to their highest point. Ive heard about "shims/wedges", is this what I need to fix my problem? Could you perhaps shed some lite on shims/wedges, IE: what, when, where, how? Or if you've any other suggestions on how to resolve my issue. Thanks a lot Sir.
If this were me, I would be looking into some brass shims. You can buy them pre cut at various thicknesses, or, if you like (and it would be my preferred method) you can buy the brass shim stock in a small roll where all you need to do is cut your own custom shims from the sheet stock. Depending on the extra height that you need, brass shims are a great way to level everything out without too much aggravation. Lee Valley does sell this stock, but I'm sure that you can search around for a vendor in your local neighbourhood. www.leevalley.com/en/Wood/page.aspx?p=40946&cat=1,43456,43407&ap=1
I have same jointer and pretty much same problem but haven’t been able to find any info on this then am reading the comments and boom! My other question is, is the fence supposed to be level?
Thanks for the question. The purpose of the jointer is to make one surface perfectly flat and the adjacent surface (or edge) perfectly flat and 90 degrees to your first flat surface. The opposing flat surface would be accomplished in a thickness planer while the apposing flat edge would be accomplished on the table saw after you check you blade for its squareness to the table surface. The jointer planer does not have the ability to accomplish parallel surfaces.
sorry to hear that. i myself have been battling cancer using natural remedies for 6 years now. i decided against the surgery,radiation and chemo since i have watched so many friends and family members go the hospital route and die anyway with painful deaths. i use herbal tinctures from my local health food store and they keep the cancer fungus in check. i usually notice it come back after eating sugared products. here is an article on a natural parkinsons cure that you may want to read. fredphillips.wordpress.com/articles/healing-parkinsons-disease-naturally/
+kennyearrings1 I have two brothers that have Parkinson's also. One has had it about 8 years the other just found out this year. They keep busy and it helps them to stay busy . Loved your video. Please do more.
Thanks Michael. There are worse things in life than a shaky hand. Thanks for the kind words on the show and my work. I hope you continue to enjoy the show as I film and post more............woodworking videos. Thanks for tuning in.
You are correct on the size. It is an 8" jointer and the brand name is Craftex. It is a brand sold here in Canada by a company called Busy Bee Tools. I have heard many people compare the tools to the Grizzly brand, which would be the American equivalent. It is a 240 volt machine and thus far, the only issues I have had with it is a wore out a belt while making the workbench project. I hope this answers all your questions......if not, feel free to ask more. I'd be more than happy to help you out.
Thanks for the kind words and for the concern Loll. I've already been tested and supposedly I am in the beginning stages of the disease. Things for me have improved considerably since this video was taken and I don't shake quite so much. Thanks for the kind words and for taking the time to leave me a comment. I do appreciate it.
The operation and the purpose of the jointer are quite a lot less intuitive than with other tools. I have found unsound simplification detrimental to skill development with the jointer. Abridged understanding with short boards leads to difficulty for the general case with long boards. Overall, I find jointer simplified creating problems in the future. The simpler situation is when the work is not longer than the infeed table, but this situation should be exceptional simplification and should not be emphasized. (This situation as a simplification should become obvious when the general more difficult case is understood.) On jointing on the edge, illustration on the jointer should be with boards twice or three times the length of the infeed table and with significant curvature in bow On jointing on the face on a slightly bowed long board, one has to first understand the purpose of the jointer. It is often not the purpose of the jointer to remove all bow from a thin board (say four quarter thick 5-6 inches wide) 48-60 inches or longer. Doing so would often require taking too much off and making the board too thin, and a thin long board generally flexes. After one establishes enough even high spots on one face; one uses the thickness planer to "joint" both faces. The issue of bowed for a thin long board is overcome during assembly with cross members.
You really like to analyze the heck out of this don't you. That's a lot of fancy words that might confuse more folks than it would help them. However, you seem to be quite confident and persistent in your want of NOT simplifying the jointer's purpose and use, so as to prevent problems in it's operation down the road. The purpose of this show was to assist those who were getting poor results with properly dimensioned lumber due to a poor technique of applying force solely on the in-feed table instead of the out-feed table. It sure wasn't taking into account all possible scenarios and it surely didn't require a PHD in the structure and physics of wood to understand that you need to apply pressure here, not here. I will leave your information here in the comments to assist those who wish to take their jointing to the extreme level and delve into every aspect of every scenario that could possibly occur while jointing boards of various dimension and proportion to the in-feed and out-feed tables. Thanks for the input on the show and hopefully, it will come in handy to those who are interested in that information. Thanks for tuning in. I do have to wonder though.....for someone who is so in tune with the jointer, it's function and the proper way to joint boards and the proper purpose of the jointer; why would you click on a video of simple, beginner's instruction or introduction to the jointer? Thanks for tuning in.
Thanks for your opinion Ariel, however sometimes the demonstration is useless without knowing the theories and reasoning behind them. I hope you were able to get something out of the show. Thanks for tuning in.
Far too much rhetoric and not enough hands on. A VERY common malady on UA-cam .Sadly it is driven by how we should spell microphone: "E G O T R I P". Instructional videos should go by the tried and proven method when instructing: "CUT to the chase!" where "Less is More". OR....make two videos per subject. One for the novice and one for the experienced. Oh indeed yes. Delete this post if you wish, and/or Flame on fellows, but in time you will see this is correct.
Okay, I will cut to the chase. Your comment has FAR too much rhetoric; and I can see by the number of videos that YOU have produced on your channel, that there is very little "hands on" experience by you. I have no intentions of deleting your post. After all, you are entitled to an opinion and who am I to judge? I post these videos to help others. I don't make a dime from them and I don't monetize my show. The only "E G O T R I P" being shown here is the one you are displaying by boosting your own self worth while insulting and attempting to degrade others. Whatever makes you feel good. Apparently, the point of this video was to bait and feed the trolls. Thanks for tuning in.
Dude, he ran through what it is you have to look for and why. Then he talked about it, while he was doing it to explain what he was doing and why. I think the word is: informative.
Thanks James. I appreciate you stepping up and saying something in this case but if there one thing that I've learned while doing this show, it's that there are going to be trolls constantly. This guy is one of those trolls. They live a breath to try and get a reaction out of people. Sometimes I respond and other times, they aren't worth the effort. Thanks for tuning in to the show and for the kind words on the program. I hope that you'll stick around for more episodes as I continue to post a weekly video. Thanks again for tuning in.
awesome video. no unboxing, set up, or cutting without explanation. this is what I needed. very detailed and easy to follow
Glad to hear that you enjoyed the show. Thanks for tuning in and if you have any questions at all, feel free to ask and I will do my best to help you out.
I really appreciated the non-nonsense approach, and the emphasis on PERSONAL PROTECTIVE EQUIPMENT!!! :) Very good explanation of how a jointer works... very responsibly done!
Thanks for the kind words on the show Rafael. I truly do appreciate it. Thanks for tuning in.
just obtained a jointer thicknesser. This steady and easy to comprehend tutorial has put me right. Thank you.
Sorry for the late reply Graham. Glad to hear that the show helped you out. Thanks for tuning in.
I've been watching a lot of videos on how to use a jointer and I must say you explained it in the most clear and concise way, well done. Thank you for the video!
You're very welcome David. I'm glad to hear that you liked the show and that you found it helpful. Thanks for tuning in.
Great video! Very thorough instruction and some humour...just what I like!
canadianbeech Glad you enjoyed it. I try to make the show a little on the lighter side. Not everything should be so serious. Thanks for tuning in and thanks for taking the time to drop me a comment. It's appreciated.
Very good explanation on how to use a jointer. Now I understand the process.
+Gordon Clark Glad that the video helped you out. Good luck with your jointer technique and thanks for tuning in to the show.
Best video yet of understanding a jointer. Thx Kenny!
Considering how many videos there are out there, that's quite the compliment. Thank you very much.
Really well done, and thanks for the emphasis on safety. Your explanation of why and how to use the jointer is the best I've seen--thanks for that practical and good thinking!
Thank you for the kind words on the show. I'm glad that you found it useful. If you have any questions at all, please feel free to ask as I'd be more than happy to help you out if I can. Thank you for tuning in to the show.
Im glad that I watched this. I have a relatively new jointer and I now see that I was putting pressure on the infeed side.....tapered board, drove me nuts. Tried a few passes using your instructions...VICTORY!!!! Flat surface..ready for the thickness planer. I use a lot of home dried wood (maple and walnut) for turning, so a precise glue line is important to a quality finish...aka, no visible glue line. Thanks for posting this. Putting your vids in my fav folder.
Glad to hear that this video was useful to you. That makes it all worth doing. Thanks for taking the time to leave me a comment. I appreciate it.
Great video. I have just bought a jointer and this has given me a really good insight into how to use it properly. Really impressed with the clear instruction and video. Many thanks and I now look forward to using my jointer properly.
You're very welcome Alan, I'm glad that the show helped you. On my program, I try to help as many people as I can in the best way that I know how. It's for that reason that I don't monetize my show. I have no desire to make money from something that i love to do. So with that in mind, if you have any questions at all, please feel free to ask and I would be more than happy to help you out if I can. Thanks for tuning in and for taking the time to leave me a comment. I truly do appreciate it.
Alan Oliver qa
Great video and extremely helpful. Thanks
Glad that you found it useful. Thanks for tuning in to the show. It's very much appreciated.
Great tutorial. Appreciate the time and effort in providing this video.
Glad to hear that you enjoyed the show Cayvman. Thanks for tuning in and for taking the time to leave me a comment. If you have any questions, please don't hesitate to ask.
Just got my first jointer today and I'm really glad I ran across this video. Thanks!
+Rattlecan Guitar Restorations I'm glad that you found it. Technique is the key to getting good results with a jointer. It might take a while to get the hang of it, but you'll get it, just like the rest of us did. Good luck with the new tool and thanks for taking the time to leave a comment on the show.
Thank you Kenny for a detailed explanation of using a jointer.
You're very welcome Raymond. I'm glad that you enjoyed it. If you have any questions, please don't hesitate to ask. thanks for tuning in.
Thank you for this very informative video. Your clear, detailed explanations are much appreciated!
You're very welcome. Thanks for tuning in to the show. If you have any questions, please feel free to ask.
I flinched when you said, "down into the dust collector".
MrGtownjake I know folks that have done it believe it or not. It's a horrible thought, but it does happen because people feel the need to remove the guard. Thanks for tuning in and thanks for your comment on the show.
This is a great video for us rookies out there! Thank you so much!
+Jim Meyer You're very welcome. I'm glad that you enjoyed it. Hopefully, it will help any new jointer owners to achieve some good results with their jointer.
Watched 5 vids and yours was the best for Jointer technique. Thanks!!
Glad you liked it Stacy. Good luck with your jointer use and thanks for tuning in.
Very well explained and demonstrated. Thanks so much!
You're very welcome Tom. I'm glad to hear that you enjoyed the show. Thanks for tuning in.
just took delivery of my Oliver 8" jointer. Very helpful. Thank you.
Glad to hear it Chris. Good luck with the new jointer. I hope it serves you well.
Hey man good vid , I seen alot of instructionals over the years but this is awesome, no-one could get it wrong after this. well done
Thanks for the kind words Tom and thanks for tuning in to the show. It's appreciated.
Much appreciated Kenny. Have a wonderful day.
+maikay1403 Thanks you very much. You have yourself a great day too.
Hi Kenny and everyone. I am a probie and think your video is extremely useful. Thank you so much. I am sorry that the video had about 0.006759% negative feedback. Well, the last time i checked, 99.993241% is ...pretty damn impressive (not just in woodworking, but in everything else in life). To me, if the video gives me information that I didn't know, i will take the info and be thankful. If the video gives me information that confirms things I already know, I will be thankful because it is actually a "gain" for me as well. Please continue to make more videos like this one.
Thanks for the kind words on the show. My theory has always been that if the video is helpful to one person, then it was worth the time it took to film, edit and post it. Thanks for tuning in to the show and thanks for taking the time to leave me a comment. I appreciate it.
Excellent explanation.! Tank you. Even I that speak english as a second language understood evry thing .Oh, your english is very clear. Greetings from México.
Thank you very much. I'm glad that you enjoyed the show and that you were able to understand it all. If you have any questions, please feel free to ask. I'd be more than happy to help you out if I can.
Hi Nick. The straight edge that I am using is the steel milled straight edge from Lee Valley. It comes in 3 different sizes and I find them to be very useful in the shop.
hi love your videos and now realise exactly what I was doing wrong results improved first time around I'm going to make my first video next week on my recycled shop keep up the great instructions
+STEVE LOADER That's awesome. Glad to hear that the video helped you out. Let me know when you get your first video up and running. I'd love to check it out. Thanks for tuning in.
You are my hero Kenny!
Surely, you could find someone better than me, to be your hero Walter. Thanks for tuning in though.
You teach safety and form at the same time. Thanks again.
Thanks for the kind words. I'm glad that you're enjoying the channel.
Excellent video now will use jointer with confidence.
Glad to hear that you found the show useful Steven. Thanks for tuning in and for taking the time to leave me a comment.
Great video. I appreciate the tips. It is all a matter of the details.
Thanks for the kind words Kirk. A new show is uploaded every Friday and I hope that you will become a regular viewer of the show. Feel free to ask any questions you like and I will do my best to help you in any way I can. Thanks for tuning in.
Thank you for posting this GREAT video, largely self taught amateur here, and I definitely learned some things, makes sense why my last few projects involving my benchtop jointer had issues, I now understand I was doing it wrong, can't wait for this weekend so I can try the right technique lol!
You're very welcome Jeison. I'm glad that the show was helpful to you. The jointer can be a frustrating thing if not used properly but hopefully, now you will have no problems at all. Thanks for tuning in and for taking the time to leave me a comment. I appreciate it.
Excellent. Plus, you always make me laugh at least once. Thank you.
I make myself laugh too Barbara. Glad that you enjoyed the show. Thanks for tuning in and if you have any questions at all, please don't hesitate to ask. I'd be more than happy to help you out if I can.
Thank you! finally a clear concise guide to using the jointer.
You're very welcome. I'm glad to hear that you found the show useful. If you have any questions, feel free to ask.
Excellent and sound advice for anyone with a planer, planer/thicknesser. I know when wearing ear protection it is quite difficult to hear subtle changes as the timber passes over the blades, but with experience you can hear the blades missing the timber if it has a bow in it, if your technique is correct.
Definitely. Sound is a big part of using any power tool and with experience, those sounds will become a natural thing for you to listen to for obtaining good results. Thanks for the extra input. Great point!!!
Really helpful - thank you. I got so frustrated last night trying to joint a 3/4" piece of oak (it just kept getting more and more bowed!) but after watching your method, I'm going to try again. I think I was pushing down while it was over the cutter head.
amherstguitar Let me know how it works out for you. Glad to hear that the video helped
+amherstguitar Just checking in to see how you made out with your jointer. I hope that using the proper technique gave you some better results.
Thanks for the video, it helped. Just acquired my first jointer (used) and doing the initial setup.
+Greg Smith
Good luck. If you have any questions, feel free to ask and I will do my best to help you out. I'm glad to hear that the video was helpful to you.
thank you so much Kenny . i am retired and have embarked in wood working no experience in wood . have 10 yrs as machinists , 20 electronics bench test and 11 as a corrections officer ( who knew you do what you can to feed the family right ) any way i want to learn to build guitars ( lol ) so i watch all the wood working i can . again thank you for all the info
You might want to check out my 12 part series on building a ukulele. Very different than building a guitar but there are some similar processes.
thank you and yup i did watch it kudos to you kind sir
Excellent instructional video!
Thanks Jerry. I appreciate the kind words on the show. Thanks for tuning in and for taking the time to leave a comment. I truly appreciate it.
Great video thanks for putting it into laymans language
You're very welcome Dennis. Glad to hear that you found the show useful and that you enjoyed it. Feel free to ask any questions that you might have and I will do my best to help you out in any way I can. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Thank you for this very imformtive information.
You're very welcome Louis. Thank you for tuning in to the show.
very nice and instructive video
Glad you liked it. Thanks for tuning in.
Well explained. Thanks
You're very welcome Johnny and if you have any questions, please don't hesitate to ask. Thanks for tuning in.
hey man, thanks for the video. very helpful!
+Dave Canoy
you're very welcome. Glad to hear that you enjoyed the show. Thanks for tuning in.
thank you for this video
You are very welcome. Thanks for taking the time to leave me a comment.
Thank you!!
I have heard that for face jointing long boards the purpose of the jointer is different.
For long board, the purpose of the jointer to face joint is to establish enough high points on one face so that the board does not rock with going thru a thickness planer. The planer actually does the planing for BOTH sides; the jointer is just the preliminary for the faces.
I have to say, that I'm not really in agreement with your statement here. Although preventing the stock from rocking is a method to use when you wish to use your thickness planer as a jointer, I truthfully don't think that it is the jointer's purpose to accomplish this. It is an interesting concept though and if it works for you and your shop, then that's great. Thanks for chiming in on the show and providing us with your theories. It's appreciated.
I'm watching part 1 of your workbench build right now. That bench may take more than "an army of 15" to move! Yes, that's why they call it a workbench. LOL!
It definitely does weigh a ton Barbara. Glad that you are enjoying that series. I had a lot of fun making that bench.
Good morning Kenny. I just bought a small used Delta bench top jointer last week and that was the first time I ever operate a jointer. As expected for the first time user, the result was far from perfect. I followed your instruction and the result was 100 times better. I will keep practicing until it is perfect. I have a couple questions for you. How do we know it is time for a new blade? Can the blade be sharpened? Thank you much!
Glad to hear that you enjoyed the show and that it was useful to you. The blades should be cutting the wood with no effort what so ever. If there is any burning of the stock, chances are it is time to hone your blades. You can hone (sharpen) jointer blades. It is a special stone that is used to hone the edge and you should be careful to hone each blade equally. For example, if you drag the stone across one blade 10 times, you must do the exact same thing to all other blades. If you google "jointer honing stone" you will be able to see that stone type that I am talking about.
I big that the shaky hands makes things tough. wish I could fixem for ya. thanks for the videos.
There are good days and bad days with the hand and I have been lucky enough to have quite a few good days lately so I'm okay with that. Thanks for the kind words and for tuning in to the show. I appreciate it.
Hi Kenny I have had to pack up work due to ill health but I needed something to keep my brain cells working I always loved woodwork so I bought myself a nice big shed and a load of tools one of these tools is a jointer/planner combi but having trouble getting the jointer set up what I mean is getting square faces your video is so good mate any advice by you and any other woodworkers would be a big help thank you so much atb Barry
I guess my first question Barry would be what results are you getting when you are trying to joint the boards. The first step in figuring out the problem is knowing what the problem is.
hi Kenny are you up and about mate
I am now. LOL.
Very informative video. Question; what is the name of the box you used to confirm that the tables and fence are perpendicular? Thanks and please keep up the instructive videos.
That tool would be the Tiltbox from the Beall tool company Jerry. It's great for checking saw blades, drilling angles etc. I love it. Here's a link. www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/hand-tools/marking-and-measuring/67350-tilt-box-ii-digital-inclinometer-for-tool-setting
I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
I finally got my table co-plane,,,, perfecto! So I was a happy guy to say the least. I will confess: taking apart the jointer, removing the infeed table to have it machined to half of 1/1000, (it was off by 35/1000) and then reassembling the entire machine,, "all by myself" was a challenge to say the lest. My lack of patience only adds to my problems. Ive got my fence tuned right in at 90* to the table but for some reason after planning the face then the side of a 2" X 4" X 5', the corner is NOT exactly 90*. The head scratching starts! Could this be due to one of my knives being too high? Any advice? thanks a lot.
I would be double checking that the infeed and the outfeed tables are both square to the fence. I would also be careful not to be placing too much pressure on the fence while feeding the stock. Some fences can shift a little bit if you apply too much pressure. This is not the case with mine, but it may be with yours. Also, as you stated, I would make sure that all blades are parallel to the infeed and outfeed tables. It only takes one blade to be out of alignment to change the square of the stock. Glad to hear that you got the table coplanar. That's some serious dedication to go the extra mile of milling rather than just shimming. Good for you Rob.
What if the board is three times as long as the infeed table, and the curvature of the concave is greater than the depth of cut?
For long and much concaved board, other considerations must be taken.
For this type of board, I joint the convex side. I use a straight edge (extruded AL) to ID the most convex part and remove that part first.
I find final jointing with greater depth a way to overcome these problem after removing the worse convex part. If the dept of cut is great enough, the board with hug the outfeed table thru-out without the board even touching the infeed table half way of the cut or sooner .
If this method works for you, then that's fantastic. This video was intended to assist those who were having issues with their jointer producing surfaces that were not flat. It wasn't meant to cover all aspects of jointing for sure. Thanks for the input on your method of choice when using the jointer. I'm sure that it will be useful to some of the viewers.
Great vid I am having an issue when face planning it is coming out slanted. I was putting down pressure on both the infeed and outfeed table. I will try to just do it on the outfeed and see if that helps. What is the digital box you used to check for square?
+Larry Brassard The digital box is called a Tilt Box and is made by Beale. You can find them at most woodworking stores. I bought mine at Lee Valley Tools. Here's a link. www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=67350&cat=1,43513
Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Good video. Can you still use the jointer for very long boards? It seems like a board longer than the surface area of the jointer could still tend to move and not give you a perfectly flat edge. I am working to join two 96" boards. I tried use a Track Saw but I am still not happy with the results.
You can use a jointer for longer boards. Depending on how long the board is, you may need extra support on the out-feed side of the jointer that is the exact same height as the existing out-feed table. For the most part though, the flat surfaces of the board well eventually get longer and support the board enough that the jointing can continue. If you have already used a track saw, this would provide a pretty straight edge on its own and the jointer could just finish off this edge and fine tune it so to speak. I hope this has helped you out Robert and thanks for tuning in to the show.
Great video, thanks for the tips! I realize I'm a little late in commenting so hopefully you still see this. I have had my grizzly 8" jointer for several weeks and am getting used to it. I am having problems jointing the face of a long board (72"). After watching this video I think I need to put more pressure on the outfeed table. But the problem I'm having is that the 72" x 7" x 1" board does not stay down on the spiral cutter head evenly and creates ridges across the width of the board. Any tips on jointing the face of a long board?
Ryan Garritson An auxiliary outfeed table with rollers to help support the longer boards is very helpful. They will allow you to concentrate on placing the downward pressure on the stock instead of trying to hold the stock down. Also, if you are getting ridges across the width of the board, you may be feeding your stock too quickly. Slow down your feed and let the cutters do their job. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Great video, but I have one question. How would you do it with long board on smaller jointer, how would you distribute pressure on outfeed table then and how would you support parts of the board that aren't on jointer?
Thanks for the kind words on the show Kenan. When using a smaller jointer, it is possible to do larger boards. You would need something to support your stock at the in-feed and out-feed side of your jointer. Something like a roller support. It has to be set at the same height as the table that it is placed at. So the in-feed support has to be the exact same height as the in-feed table and the out-feed support has to be the exact same height as the out-feed table. Basically, by adding roller supports, you are extending you jointer bed. Another method is to install your jointer in such a way that you can build in-feed and out-feed tables out of wood that will extend the jointer beds. This is a little more extreme but works well. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in.
@@acutabove_woodworkings great, thak you for answer :)
@@kenansenagic384 You're very welcome.
This is great, but 2 foot boards aren't too hard. What about 14 foot boards on a relatively short bed jointer? That is where I'm having issue.
The two foot board was simply for demonstration purposes only. I have had issues with longer boards as well. The problem is that if you have your board set properly (concave side facing the jointer bed) then the leading edge of the board falls off the planer bed before the back end can register against the blades and this causes serious issues. I have been able to combat this with an auxiliary outfeed table that is the exact height as the outfeed table of the jointer. This gives the extra support needed to work on the piece. I have also (while it is not exactly the best method) ran the board into the jointer blades until it no longer makes contact. Then I rotate the board end on end and plane the opposite end of the board; running it into the blade until it no longer makes contact. I continue this process which lengthens the amount of stock that is contacting the jointer bed on each end of the board and it lessens the length of the void in the middle which is not contacting the bed. What this does, is eventually it give enough flat surface at either end to be able to run the board normally through the jointer and maintain enough contact to allow the outfeed table to do it job and support the piece. I have only used this method on longer, very problematic boards but I have had some success with it. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in
What are you using for your straight edge? Aluminium bar stock?
Awesome video, thank you. I'm curious about a few things you may be able to help me with, and may make good videos for others as well. I am very new to using a jointer and am using a fairly small machine. A lot of my boards are pretty long, and I find myself having to move my body and reposition my arms and grip frequently. Is there a good way of doing long boards or are there good tools for doing this? I also would like to use the jointer on 1 inch by 1 inch pieces of wood. Is that too small and dangerous and should I not bother? Or again do you have a good method for doing these types of thin pieces with good hand tools?
That's a lot of questions Casey. ha ha ha ha ha ha. I'll start with the longer boards. I have found that longer boards are better suits for the larger machines. However, you can set up an auxiliary out feed roller at the end of the out feed table to help support the stock as it comes out of the jointer. The problem is, that the out feed rollers have to be the exact (stressing exact here) same height as the out feed table. Otherwise, you will cause problems with your flat surfaces. Smaller pieces like the 1" X 1" pieces are just fine to do on a jointer as long as you are using push pads and not your hands. You will also want to make sure that all your safety guards are in place and in good working order. There is a way to do jointing on a router table and I have produced a video on the channel to show you how to do this. ua-cam.com/video/fdHvU-IeEJU/v-deo.html
With the proper safety gear, I don't think that the pieces that you are asking about are much of a risk on the jointer. I will give this one other piece of advice. If it doesn't feel right or you aren't comfortable with doing something, DON'T DO IT!!!! You brain is telling you that there is something wrong or that there is something that you could do a little safer.
Thanks a million! I really appreciate it.
You're very welcome. Feel free to ask any questions you like.
What is the name of the devise you used to check for square?
The device you are asking about Scot is called a Tilt box. They are a little pricey but are worth their weight in gold. They are fantastic for any job where you need to set a tool to a specific angle. They are available at most woodworking suppliers. I got mine at Lee Valley. Here's the link. www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/hand-tools/marking-and-measuring/67350-tilt-box-ii-digital-inclinometer-for-tool-setting
Thanks for tuning in. I hope this helps.
you should never use pressure at any given time, let the cutter head do the job (assuming you have sharp blades), the weight of the wood is sufficient. use your push sticks only to push the wood through.
While I agree that you don't need to place excessive pressure on the board you are jointing, the emphasis what placed of applying pressure on the out-feed table because most folks were applying pressure on the in-feed table causing them to get concave results. I'm not talking about hundreds of pounds of force here, but just enough to keep the board from firing back at you from the directional force of the spinning blades. Pressure is still required to prevent this.
Techniques on boards much longer than the infeed are needed.
This show was primarily about the general usage and technique needed when using a jointer. Obviously, it can't cover every scenario. Thanks for tuning in.
Hi Ken, Ive a delta DJ20/8", just had the infeed table machined, shes perfect now, same as the outfeed. Ive been following this system to set co-plane of both tables where you start by setting the outfeed 15/1000 above the cutterhead, then do same with the infeed. The outfeed is set perfectly as is the cutterhead end of the infeed table but the start end of the infeed table,(opposite the cutterhead), just wont raise high enough to match the 15/1000 everywhere else. Even with the cams turned to their highest point. Ive heard about "shims/wedges", is this what I need to fix my problem? Could you perhaps shed some lite on shims/wedges, IE: what, when, where, how? Or if you've any other suggestions on how to resolve my issue. Thanks a lot Sir.
If this were me, I would be looking into some brass shims. You can buy them pre cut at various thicknesses, or, if you like (and it would be my preferred method) you can buy the brass shim stock in a small roll where all you need to do is cut your own custom shims from the sheet stock. Depending on the extra height that you need, brass shims are a great way to level everything out without too much aggravation. Lee Valley does sell this stock, but I'm sure that you can search around for a vendor in your local neighbourhood.
www.leevalley.com/en/Wood/page.aspx?p=40946&cat=1,43456,43407&ap=1
I have same jointer and pretty much same problem but haven’t been able to find any info on this then am reading the comments and boom! My other question is, is the fence supposed to be level?
hey can you make the other sides flat too or do you have 2 make just 2 and the rest in the thickness planer??
Thanks for the question. The purpose of the jointer is to make one surface perfectly flat and the adjacent surface (or edge) perfectly flat and 90 degrees to your first flat surface. The opposing flat surface would be accomplished in a thickness planer while the apposing flat edge would be accomplished on the table saw after you check you blade for its squareness to the table surface. The jointer planer does not have the ability to accomplish parallel surfaces.
nice video................why do your hands shake?
+george washington I am in the beginning stages of Parkinson's disease. I have good days and bad. Thanks for tuning in.
sorry to hear that.
i myself have been battling cancer using natural remedies for 6 years now.
i decided against the surgery,radiation and chemo since i have watched so many friends and family members go the hospital route and die anyway with painful deaths.
i use herbal tinctures from my local health food store and they keep the cancer fungus in check. i usually notice it come back after eating sugared products.
here is an article on a natural parkinsons cure that you may want to read.
fredphillips.wordpress.com/articles/healing-parkinsons-disease-naturally/
Thanks for the information. Good luck on your treatment. I wish you all the success in the world.
+kennyearrings1 I have two brothers that have Parkinson's also. One has had it about 8 years the other just found out this year. They keep busy and it helps them to stay busy . Loved your video. Please do more.
Thanks Michael. There are worse things in life than a shaky hand. Thanks for the kind words on the show and my work. I hope you continue to enjoy the show as I film and post more............woodworking videos. Thanks for tuning in.
Hi, What kind of jointer is this? I'm guessing an 8"??
You are correct on the size. It is an 8" jointer and the brand name is Craftex. It is a brand sold here in Canada by a company called Busy Bee Tools. I have heard many people compare the tools to the Grizzly brand, which would be the American equivalent. It is a 240 volt machine and thus far, the only issues I have had with it is a wore out a belt while making the workbench project. I hope this answers all your questions......if not, feel free to ask more. I'd be more than happy to help you out.
Very good video. Please make sure you get tested for Parkinsons.
Thanks for the kind words and for the concern Loll. I've already been tested and supposedly I am in the beginning stages of the disease. Things for me have improved considerably since this video was taken and I don't shake quite so much. Thanks for the kind words and for taking the time to leave me a comment. I do appreciate it.
The operation and the purpose of the jointer are quite a lot less intuitive than with other tools.
I have found unsound simplification detrimental to skill development with the jointer. Abridged understanding with short boards leads to difficulty for the general case with long boards. Overall, I find jointer simplified creating problems in the future.
The simpler situation is when the work is not longer than the infeed table, but this situation should be exceptional simplification and should not be emphasized. (This situation as a simplification should become obvious when the general more difficult case is understood.)
On jointing on the edge, illustration on the jointer should be with boards twice or three times the length of the infeed table and with significant curvature in bow
On jointing on the face on a slightly bowed long board, one has to first understand the purpose of the jointer. It is often not the purpose of the jointer to remove all bow from a thin board (say four quarter thick 5-6 inches wide) 48-60 inches or longer. Doing so would often require taking too much off and making the board too thin, and a thin long board generally flexes. After one establishes enough even high spots on one face; one uses the thickness planer to "joint" both faces. The issue of bowed for a thin long board is overcome during assembly with cross members.
You really like to analyze the heck out of this don't you. That's a lot of fancy words that might confuse more folks than it would help them. However, you seem to be quite confident and persistent in your want of NOT simplifying the jointer's purpose and use, so as to prevent problems in it's operation down the road. The purpose of this show was to assist those who were getting poor results with properly dimensioned lumber due to a poor technique of applying force solely on the in-feed table instead of the out-feed table. It sure wasn't taking into account all possible scenarios and it surely didn't require a PHD in the structure and physics of wood to understand that you need to apply pressure here, not here. I will leave your information here in the comments to assist those who wish to take their jointing to the extreme level and delve into every aspect of every scenario that could possibly occur while jointing boards of various dimension and proportion to the in-feed and out-feed tables. Thanks for the input on the show and hopefully, it will come in handy to those who are interested in that information. Thanks for tuning in. I do have to wonder though.....for someone who is so in tune with the jointer, it's function and the proper way to joint boards and the proper purpose of the jointer; why would you click on a video of simple, beginner's instruction or introduction to the jointer? Thanks for tuning in.
Less talking, more demo.
Thanks for your opinion Ariel, however sometimes the demonstration is useless without knowing the theories and reasoning behind them. I hope you were able to get something out of the show. Thanks for tuning in.
Far too much rhetoric and not enough hands on. A VERY common malady on UA-cam .Sadly it is driven by how we should spell microphone: "E G O T R I P". Instructional videos should go by the tried and proven method when instructing: "CUT to the chase!" where "Less is More". OR....make two videos per subject. One for the novice and one for the experienced. Oh indeed yes. Delete this post if you wish, and/or Flame on fellows, but in time you will see this is correct.
Okay, I will cut to the chase. Your comment has FAR too much rhetoric; and I can see by the number of videos that YOU have produced on your channel, that there is very little "hands on" experience by you. I have no intentions of deleting your post. After all, you are entitled to an opinion and who am I to judge? I post these videos to help others. I don't make a dime from them and I don't monetize my show. The only "E G O T R I P" being shown here is the one you are displaying by boosting your own self worth while insulting and attempting to degrade others. Whatever makes you feel good. Apparently, the point of this video was to bait and feed the trolls. Thanks for tuning in.
Great reply, Kenny.
Glad you liked it David.
Dude, he ran through what it is you have to look for and why. Then he talked about it, while he was doing it to explain what he was doing and why. I think the word is: informative.
Thanks James. I appreciate you stepping up and saying something in this case but if there one thing that I've learned while doing this show, it's that there are going to be trolls constantly. This guy is one of those trolls. They live a breath to try and get a reaction out of people. Sometimes I respond and other times, they aren't worth the effort. Thanks for tuning in to the show and for the kind words on the program. I hope that you'll stick around for more episodes as I continue to post a weekly video. Thanks again for tuning in.
Thank you!
You're very welcome. Thanks for tuning in.