Soft Case vs Hard Case LiPo Battery for your RC Car
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- Опубліковано 12 лип 2024
- What do you prefer? Soft Case LiPo's or Hard Case LiPo's?
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I can't believe it took a 12 minute video to explain hard pack vs. Soft pack! Never would have figured that out on my own!
Hardcase all the way, Seems so much safer for the battery when bashing
They are safer for bashing in the sense that they can't get punctured as easily, but they are much harder to inspect. I have yet to see any case where someone has had a random object puncture their lipo while bashing.
Thanks for the comment Ryan! Definitely surprised to see this many of us "bashers" using hard case LiPo's. Good for me to know
I started out with hard cases because that's what was provided with an RTR RC I bought years ago. Months ago when I saw a pair of soft case 6000mAh 150c 3S lipos on Amazon for $70, I did some research on hard vs soft packs and bought them. Since then, I've been buying soft packs. I do own both, because I still have hard packs I bought prior to finding out about the benefits of soft packs, but I find that with the soft packs, they are much easier to inspect for damage, lighter in weight, and are also cheaper in cost.
I find that some hard packs still have movement within the case itself. That movement can still cause the lipos to slam / smash against the inside of the same hard case that's supposed to protect it. I also found that those hard cases would pick up debri through the hole that the wires come out of, which could puncture the lipo. I guess that could be remedied with silicon. But clearly that's something so over looked, that you don't think about it, until after you realize there's small rocks / sand inside of your hard case.
With the hard cases that came with my RTR, I didn't know the cells even expanding, until the case eventually cracked open. With a hard case you may also find out the cells are damaged when it's too late (a fire happening), where-as with a soft case, you have a chance to see damage ahead of time.
Ultimately if you're that worried about your soft packs getting damaged, you can simply get a $1 sheet of 1/8 thick foam from a craft store, and put it under the battery as I do, as well as using all of the Velcro straps provided with your RC to limit movement.
Interesting, I bought only one hard cased LiPo and thought this was totally not worth it. Never used them since. Also have never had an issue with aggressive bashing with soft case packs.
Nice video, a couple of other things of note: 1. softcases are usually less expensive than hardcase 2. hardcase packs are required for racing
Great points!
When I started my brushless RC car journey (Mid to late 2000's), all there was was soft case packs, so I learned everything I know from that aspect. I prefer soft case, for all the reasons you mentioned, Plus one more. I'm a temp junkie, I temp my truck all the time when I'm running it, it's a habit I got from playing with Nitro for a little while. I monitor everything, including the battery and the slipper clutch. A hard case you can't really temp check , also that hard case can prevent the battery from cooling properly, which is just as bad as any other damage the battery can get. personally i'm not a speed freak or a bash till you break it guy. I just play with my toy, if it's good great charge and go again, if it breaks fix it and go again. Oh one more difference, price. Same battery same capacity and C rating, the hard case is usually $20.00 more expensive
Excellent points. I am a temp junkie too and missed including these 2 points on temps even when its in my video summarization notes.
Professor RC, you are always the best.......I have learned so much from your lectures.......thank you so much Professor.....take good care.....all the BEST!
Thanks Andy!
I typically buy hardcases these days. I’ve had bad luck with soft packs, taking hard hits during bashing and getting deformed and having to destroy them.
What has happened commonly is small rocks eventually get wedged on the sides of or even under the battery a bit, and then gradually got pressed into the soft pack. Plus there’s the flexing issue - a hardcase reinforces the battery so when the chassis flexes on a hard landing, it won’t bend the battery. I had two batteries I had to destroy due to bending leaving air air gap in the battery and that scary “bubblegum” smell.
I have 2s hard cases for bashing, and a 3s soft pack for speed runs.
Nice! thanks for sharing
my Yuneec Typhoon drone came with hard-cased Lipos, interesting
A hard case pack will come with all professional drones including DJI. Many non hobby grade items (including RC's) will come with hard case packs. There's too much liability to use a soft case in these applications sold to the general public.
Hard case I feel they are more resistant to breaking upon impact if they were to fall out of the vehicle while moving
That's definitely the case here. hahaha!
In the beginning I favored soft packs with plugs, but now I have converted to hard cases with bullets. Pretty much use them for everything, except when bashing in humid conditions. Haven't really found anything that match hard case graphene lipos in terms of overall performance, durability, and weight.
Also, most modern chargers have built-in diagnostic programs that let you test each cell. So I'm not really worried about "hidden puffing" underneath the case. I'm sure you would be able to detect damaged cells long before they ballon!?
I posted on the Patreon site a pic of some data my charger has collected from a 6s 4000mAh pack. I don't think anyone would be able to determine the puffed cell based on the data.
Thanks! Can hard packs with female bullets (no leads) be connected directly together to run in series, or do they need their own leads into a series adapter?
They can be connected directly together, positive on one pack to negative on the other pack. It is important to ensure that the packs are compatible with each other and that the correct polarity is observed when connecting them together. You, obviously don't want to short anything out but the opportunity for this to happen is quite significant as the connectors are not polarized on the battery.
hardcase always for me
Right on!
Hello , I want to make a long range autonomous boat for a university contest , what will I Need?
The boat must turn well, be fast and reliable , (Budget around 500-2000 $)
With some of my older cars Tamiya's (TA04's) and hpi sprints the rear drive belt rubs over the battery pack making a deep wear mark on the top, if I used soft packs it would wear in seconds and result in fire. Definitely a design fault..
But the cars are great and fast considering the age and only 2s lol
Yikes, soft case or not, as you mention it seems like a design issue or the battery is too big.
It's most likely because NiMH batteries were rounded on both sides and most lipo hardcase are square as you will already know, but believe it or not it doesn't do the belt any noticeable harm🤷 I've had the same rear drive belt on now for time. It's the Pack's plastic case that wears, The only grace is that by the time I've turned the battery around (so worn both sides) it's older and ready for the retirement life of running old buggies with standard silver cans.
Thought I'd mention it just in case anyone else is using the same older type kits and was using hardcase lipo's and comes across this issue. Double check before using soft cell lipo's. Check where the belt will rub if at all. 👍👍
Wow. That's for the insight.
Hmmm, interesting, is it possible to manufacture translucent or transparent hard case to at least see smthing inside🧐👍🙌
I have one hard case lipo that feels like puffed a little when you take it in hand or put on the flat surface)
not good
Well, anything is possible if you have enough time and or money
I worked in the plastics industry for 15 years and have seen all kinds of plastics , from rubber like to hard. The issue with clear plastics, as in true crystal clear, like the little bubbles you used to see in quarter toy machines is that the thicknesses we'd see in our hobby (2-3 MM roughly, is they'd be fragile. the additives that soften the plastic 9to withstand flex also cloud up the plastics. In my opinion, a hardcase done right (clear enough to see everything), would not survive the first bash. you'd have plastic chips everywhere and an exposed battery (not even shrink wrap)