I show you my bed! The perfect Print Bed Design (not only for my Ender3v2 or Voron 350)
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- Опубліковано 11 вер 2024
- This video is in fact belong somehow to my Ender 3v2 Series to achieve perfect ABS prints, BUT I took it out to make it more common as it applies to all printers out there. Finally I know you a little bit better and I will share with you my ultimate print bed design. I hope you like it - I am happy about your comment I will share the CAD files soon through links to my homepage.
For the Ender I use an Aluminium Bed of 5mm height. For the Voron 2.4 350 I use the same design but with a height of 8mm.
I think you forgot to mention that the thicker aluminium will deflect less in general creating a more stable bed mesh and shouldn’t warp in heat at much. Having said that I do like the presentation of the videos and find them very interesting.
Thank you so much and happy that you like my videos. Actually my results on the 5mm plate are fantastic. The Voron plate I didn’t try yet. I will maybe make a video of it.
you literally designed a bed with embedded magnets that have been around for year in the 3d printing hobby alone! btw i print only abs at 110c bed temp for the last 2 years ive had it and not and issue at all with the bed and it still snaps down strong best $28 on amazon you can spend! not many people want to invest more than the printer itself to be made. id look around seems like your at lest a few years behind on standard 3d printer
Thank you for your comment. I appreciate all feedback :-)
I don't know if I am a fan of the magnet insets. They are quite large so your bed isn't supporting the pei sheet for a relatively large area maybe that doesn't make a difference. But another drawback is for sure you couldn't or probably can't use a beacon bed leveling probe. With all the distinct magnets. I am yet to solve the high temp issue with magnetic beds myself. But for voron atleast since the bed isn't moving and you can and should seh the heat to on having a huge dataset of bed leveling points is probably the way to go to map the unevenness off the bed including. The magnetic foil. And it should be pretty consistent too. I don't know if giving up on that high resolution scan is really worth it to get rid of the unevenness of the magnetic foil.
On my 350 Voron the standard Z align is enough. The bed is perfectly flat and aligned with the magnets. Actually same on the Ender. I will try to eliminate the bed leveling screws of the ender, as with my upcoming Y axis design it should be perfectly flat... lets see... I will share my results.
id love a bed like that, i also hate the magnetic sticker which is normally used.
but what happend to the aluminium?😅 at 9:18 you can see that the glass plate is not flush with the plate 😅
Hi KidCe, thank you very much for your observation... you made me a bit nervous but it would have been impossible actually if it would be true. Because in order to print ABS on a PEI plate without any adder or chemical the complete surface of the buildplate must be within 0.05mm - 0.07mm over the size... so I double checked everything. First of all: yes you are right, at 9:18 there is a gap between the glass and the build plate. Very well visible. But this gap is probably caused by some dust part which came in between. I can confirm that the built plate is absolut flat and is closing without gap to the glas plate as well. I can't attache a picture here, but it does :-) So I still believe that this solution is very good and I can confirm after many hours of printing ABS with 110 degree built plate and 240 degree Hotend, everything is still working perfect. But I have another idea, and I am just preparing the parts... because I want to have a faster speed and I think the aluminium plate is heavy (even only 4mm thick). Getting rid of the weight would be good... so I will make a new one with PEEK-GF30 in the same way and see how this will behave. I will make a video on it if the result is good. And then I will show again the current solution with glas :-) Thanks again for your feedback.
Hi.
What about weight? not a problem for the voron, yes, but what about the ender where the bed rests on the Y axis?
For the Ender I use a 5mm aluminum plate and the same magnets. The difference between a 5mm and 8mm on 350 to 210 is around 4.5 times in volume. The Ender Version is really light. No problem with that weight on the moving axis at all - when I have time I will measure the weight difference between the original and my modified version. But I also changed the Y Axis to a rail drive.
Nice new channel, Oliver 👍The printbed design is awesome. Who did this milling into aluminium? How much more does the bed weight for your slinger (Ender3)? Might it have some impact to acceleration? I'm asking because I try to improve my CR10v1. There are allways new limitations on this printer that show up when I thought I fixed a point. :)
Thank you. Happy that you like my channel. I had a lot of work and could make videos less check comments a while. I will let you know the weight difference here when I measure.
I am curious about the heat transfer with potential air gaps where the magnets are. Might not heat as evenly?
I print ABS with 100 degrees. I have an absolute even surface, without warping on parts which are the size of the max print area of the Ender. I heat up the bed and print directly. I don’t wait after the bed heat up is done (beside for heating the hotend). I don’t use any additional glue, chemicals or ABS mixes but print on PEI directly. I did not do the math but I guess the heat distribution isn’t an issue as a 0.3mm gap is not negatively influencing my ABS prints (nor any other material). When I can grab a heat camera I will check :)
Hi Techguy
here is a simple upgrade solution without milling holes in your aluminium Bed:
GraviFlex® Magnetfolie 200
Constant Temperature resistant 120°, short time use 200°C
Grüße aus Deutschland ;-)
Very limited in size and very expensive. Thickness error adder: 0.06 (+- 0.03) (which is for me too high). So you are going to add an additional 0.06 mm error on your built plate over an unknown area. Exactly thats what I wanted to get rid of.
I sadly dont think this is a perfect design anymore. The magnets will interfere with the new fast probing options (doesnt matter if you dont use them ofc) and it still doesnt have any way of negating thermal expension like the maxwell coupling used in many 3z setups.
There might be probing options which don't fit with it, but there might be new optical probes which don't care about magnets... I am using still a standard probe and for the same designed Voron I am using the Tap. All works very well. And of course... I am very happy to have people coming up with new ideas and thoughts :-) Thats what makes life fun. Right? And: A perfect solution exists till someone brings up a better one ;-)
Weight limits the y speed.
It is not much heavier than the original one. But yes in general I agree what you say. I am going to make a new plate using PEEK-GF30 and see how it goes... will make a video of it.
Nicely done. My concern would be the strength of the magnets, can they resist the bed as the material is warping? I have had this problem with a weak magnetic bed, the plastic actually pulls the corners of the bed away from the magnet surface (this was with a large PETG print which used most of the area).
Wow… that sounds like it is very well sticking on the bed… :) maybe you can reduce the warping through a better distance in general? Honestly, I print mainly ABS and yes - sorry - never printed PETG. So I don’t want to talk about things I don’t know well… but I am happy to give it a try. Just got a roll… let’s see how it is compared to ABS.
@@TechGuyZone thanks for the reply! Yes, I mentioned PETG because that was the filament where I noticed the problem. But I think you would have the same problem with ABS. It warps even more than PETG. If your bed adhesion is strong, I am concerned that it may pull the magnetic bed away from the magnets. The part will want to lift at the corners and you need a strong magnetic bed to resist this, I had this problem even with PETG. I am hoping that your bed does not have this problem - it is a good design, I am a mechanical engineer and I was impressed.
For me ABS is absolute perfect. I am using a polished PEI plate and the bed need to be 100% accurate flat (lets say within 0.05 mm over the area of printing. The standard rough PEI plate is causing the ABS to warp. I print ABS in this setup like PLA - of cause I need to watch the first layer... but then it is perfect. Also the print speed is very important for ABS. It must be slow but not too slow. The head must be perfectly aligned to the surface. Changing the configuration for the distance even within 0.02 mm steps is crucial. Having found the right setup let you print ABS like a charm. I agree that in case you glue the ABS on the PEI - in case it warps it takes the plate with it. But the art is to have it setup in a way that you do not need any glue. Nothing. Just a alcohol iced absolute clean an polished PEI
sympathisch
danke schön :-)
Not an original idea, adds significant cost and complexity to machining the bed, removal of so much material could cause internal stresses to be released warping the plate, thermal expansion could cause nonlinear buckling of the plate, doesn’t work the latest generation of bed scanning probes, good quality magnetic sheets can definitely withstand over 110C
Thank you for your comment. I also want to encourage everyone to make videos and share their ideas. You seam like very Knowledgeable in Aluminium and Materials in general. But what you describe I don’t observe. Maybe because the way the holes are structured and distributed do not at all cause any warping or nonlinear buckling. But that’s just my own observation. If here is a material specialist I would be happy to know more. Anyway, I am happy that you are happy with your magnetic sheet. Thats good for you.
Hi there, just some feedback: after extensive printing over a time of about 8 months, with mainly ABS and 100-110 degree bed temperature over hours per day, there is zero deformation of the build plate.