Tom… the outer tables with the support legs add a bunch of versatility to the SS. I use them a lot to support long pieces. I have a Porter Cable bench top mortiser. It sets on my work bench and my SS works perfectly as my in & out-feed support. Here’s a suggestion for bung filling a hole: Tilt your sander about 5degrees. The taper you sand in the edges will hide most cracks. You might think it would be difficult to get the sizing perfect… but if you make it thick enough… it will be strong enough that you don’t really need it to bottom out perfectly in the hole. Just drive it in until it is tight. Glue at the edges will hold it just fine. Your point is well taken… when it comes to complicated set ups… make sure the juice is worth the squeeze!
It was a fun experiment and did the job so I feel good about it. I knew going in that the old adage to move the tool to work piece for large parts was going to win out. I think any sort of drill press mortise will want for perfect smooth sides. There has to be some slop in the quill to allow for its extension in and out, so that means a little side to side to.
Always enjoy your videos and your sharing your processes and opinions. It is amazing what can be accomplished using the various setups of the Shopsmith. Thanks!
Helpful. Lessons learned: 1. Run a test piece on complex setups. 2. For awkward pieces, it may be better to bring the tool to the piece, vs. Bringing the piece to the tool.
It looks like for overhead routing you always need to have hold downs to push the piece against the fence and the table. The size of your pieces also makes it especially challenging.
Great setup. Very good use of the SS table system for stock support,looks rock solid. I noticed toward the last that you were cutting in both directions. Was there a tendency for the stock to pull away on the climb cut? I would have thought the spring holddowns wouldn’t be stout enough to prevent that. I think the SS was fully capable of the job you accomplished with it, but never miss an opportunity to add to the tool collection. I have the Makita palm router with the plunge base and like it.
Thanks Larry. Yes the table and the steel hold downs seemed solid and the hold the piece well. The biggest challenge was the dual miter setup and custom fence. It just took a long time to nail down.
Thanks Bob. I do have the mortise kit, bought new from Shopsmith 2-3 years ago. The chisels are very roughly milled and do not cut week, lots of force needed. The $45 Freud spiral uncut cuts with almost no force and is much more enjoyable to use. If I remember the hold down that is.
Thanks Curt. I definitely like using my shopsmith too. I ran 6000 rpm, this bit seemed to work well there. I found that 10k is just not necessary for routing joinery.
Has anyone used a machinist vice or even better an X/Y table on their shopsmith? It would make this operation and setup easier and more accurate. I’ve also considered possibly using an end mill on some metals. Has anybody tried?
The problem I've had with horizontal boring is that the table "legs" flex and the work piece moves away from the bit, which changes the contact location.
I have the 510 system and went down to my metal supply house and bought a 60” x 1” steel rod that I run between the table and the end supports. That really stabilized everything and you can get all the pieces on a perfect horizontal plane. In addition , I can set up the saw and the jointer on one end of the shopsmith and still have great floating table supports on the other end.
I'm using a free open source software called Inkscape. I go through some detail about how I made the drawings in this video - ua-cam.com/video/sLBjCpGuXYs/v-deo.html
Please check my Community tab for answers to common questions and the latest information! - ua-cam.com/users/woodshopnerderycommunity
Tom… the outer tables with the support legs add a bunch of versatility to the SS. I use them a lot to support long pieces.
I have a Porter Cable bench top mortiser. It sets on my work bench and my SS works perfectly as my in & out-feed support.
Here’s a suggestion for bung filling a hole: Tilt your sander about 5degrees. The taper you sand in the edges will hide most cracks. You might think it would be difficult to get the sizing perfect… but if you make it thick enough… it will be strong enough that you don’t really need it to bottom out perfectly in the hole. Just drive it in until it is tight. Glue at the edges will hold it just fine.
Your point is well taken… when it comes to complicated set ups… make sure the juice is worth the squeeze!
Great tip, thank Dave!
Interesting mortise idea. That’s going to be a great bookshelf.
Thanks Matt, sure is taking a long time. So many school activities!
Great video! I enjoyed the setup process. You made a good patch. Thanks for your time.
Thanks Mike, Glad you enjoyed it!
The pass-through was a clever approach, Tom. Sorry it didn't work out as well as you hoped, but you are on the right track with the router. Scott
It was a fun experiment and did the job so I feel good about it. I knew going in that the old adage to move the tool to work piece for large parts was going to win out.
I think any sort of drill press mortise will want for perfect smooth sides. There has to be some slop in the quill to allow for its extension in and out, so that means a little side to side to.
Always enjoy your videos and your sharing your processes and opinions. It is amazing what can be accomplished using the various setups of the Shopsmith. Thanks!
Thanks James, I appreciate the compliment.
Nice job on the patch!
Thanks, I am looking forward to seeing how well the stain hides it.
Thanks for the great video Tom. 👍 Your creativity is adorable.
Thanks Mark!Glad you liked the video.
Helpful. Lessons learned: 1. Run a test piece on complex setups. 2. For awkward pieces, it may be better to bring the tool to the piece, vs. Bringing the piece to the tool.
Absolutely Chad, you nailed it. Thanks for the tips.
You are amazing sir!
Thanks Larry, glad you liked the video!
It looks like for overhead routing you always need to have hold downs to push the piece against the fence and the table. The size of your pieces also makes it especially challenging.
Yes, very true. When the setup is good it works well.
Nice job!
Thanks Albert!
Great setup. Very good use of the SS table system for stock support,looks rock solid. I noticed toward the last that you were cutting in both directions. Was there a tendency for the stock to pull away on the climb cut? I would have thought the spring holddowns wouldn’t be stout enough to prevent that. I think the SS was fully capable of the job you accomplished with it, but never miss an opportunity to add to the tool collection. I have the Makita palm router with the plunge base and like it.
Thanks Larry. Yes the table and the steel hold downs seemed solid and the hold the piece well. The biggest challenge was the dual miter setup and custom fence. It just took a long time to nail down.
Very nice ! Awesome solution Tom! I have the SS mortice attachment have you tried it?
Thanks Bob. I do have the mortise kit, bought new from Shopsmith 2-3 years ago. The chisels are very roughly milled and do not cut week, lots of force needed. The $45 Freud spiral uncut cuts with almost no force and is much more enjoyable to use. If I remember the hold down that is.
I’m waiting for the day he discovers the origin shaper.
Excellent job. For me with more than enough time I prefer using the SS setup. What speed were you running on the PowerPro? Thanks for sharing.
Thanks Curt. I definitely like using my shopsmith too. I ran 6000 rpm, this bit seemed to work well there. I found that 10k is just not necessary for routing joinery.
@@woodshopnerdery great information to know. I will definitely be giving this setup a tryout. Curt.
Has anyone used a machinist vice or even better an X/Y table on their shopsmith? It would make this operation and setup easier and more accurate. I’ve also considered possibly using an end mill on some metals. Has anybody tried?
I've seen it done, here is an example. ua-cam.com/video/PKWWA75Qq9Q/v-deo.html
What speed did you use? any vibration ? Great video.
The router seems to run better at 7,000 RPMs rather than the 10,000 RPMs. Don't know what just a "feel thing." Nope, no unusual vibrations.
Why not use the mortising kit from shopsmith?
The problem I've had with horizontal boring is that the table "legs" flex and the work piece moves away from the bit, which changes the contact location.
True. Are you backing up the main table with the auxiliary table?
@@woodshopnerdery I have not. But clearly it is a must.
@@woodshopnerdery my main use for horizontal boring is the jack in the side of a guitar. 😉
I have the 510 system and went down to my metal supply house and bought a 60” x 1” steel rod that I run between the table and the end supports. That really stabilized everything and you can get all the pieces on a perfect horizontal plane. In addition , I can set up the saw and the jointer on one end of the shopsmith and still have great floating table supports on the other end.
What software do you use for designing work pieces?
I'm using a free open source software called Inkscape. I go through some detail about how I made the drawings in this video - ua-cam.com/video/sLBjCpGuXYs/v-deo.html
@woodshop nerdery ok thanks. I'll be sure to check it out