Most small engines actually are designed in a way that they do normally start at full throttle. This is a result of how the governor controls the throttle and for most 2 strokes like this saw when starting on choke or half choke the throttle is also open. Have you wrecked many small engines?
@@joec9680most 2 strokes don’t have 8 thousand rpm red lines, I always let my 2 stroke motor bikes warm up a bit before riding . A chain saw or saw is no different.
I build and mod saws on the side, and used to be the foreman of a small tree service company. 066/ ms660 is a fantastic saw. I own 9 saws currently (Stihl/ Husky,) which are all built by myself to a certain degree, some all out, others just a muffler mod/ timing advance. The Farmertec stuff is decent depending on what the part actually is. As far as cylinders/ jugs are concerned I would go OEM or for a high quality aftermarket replacement. I use Meteor Pistons and Caber Rings in all my builds. You can pick up a decent big bore, do a mild port job, throw in the Meteor/ Caber combo and have a kickass reliable saw. HL Supply or Sawagain.com are both excellent vendors to buy quality stuff from. So what was wrong with the current engine? Down on compression? If the cylinder isn't badly scored, fresh rings, piston, gaskets/ hoses will most likely bring it right back to running perfect. The biggest cause of failure besides deteriorated hoses/ gaskets is usually when someone runs straight gas or has the carb so far out of adjustment that it runs the saw lean. Carb adjustment is critical. Couple tips for you since I can tell your pretty new to saw repairs... you don't need the flywheel puller if you are careful. Thread the nut loosely on the crank and tap on crank snout with a hammer and it will pop right off. Use a tach to adjust the carb properly so you don't lean it out and ruin the new cylinder. Set the coil gap with a business card. Perfect size to adjust the air gap. Dual port muffler, and a timing advance will make that saw a whole different animal. You can mod the muffler yourself or buy a dual port one. Cut times are way faster, not to mention it makes the saw run/ sound a hell of a lot better. Adjust the carb afterwards since opening it up/ changing the timing effects the mixture. My 066 has the muffler mod, timing advance, max flow filter, port work, 3/4 wrap handle, big bore with the Meteor/ Caber combo, Stihl OEM large dogs w/ roller catch, Sugihara bar and a badass full chisel. Cuts and runs like a raped ape 😁
Hopefully the carb is properly setup and wasn't running lean causing the seizures on the old engine and soon to be the new engine. I see this repeatedly on 2 stroke engines. Cause of failure on the old engine becomes the cause of failure on the replacement!
I have a smaller Stihl that is always hard to start when cold, probably because I don't use it that often. Outside of that, it runs pretty well. I'm always impressed with the local tree removal company's whose saws seem to start on the first pull and cut the hell out of tree limbs and trunks without a hiccup!
Nice work, Tyler! Hope that engine lasts a while, sure saved some money. I'm old school, former brush monkey. Our lives depended on those Stihls. Carried a few versions, 034s, 038s, Magnums, and the battleship 044s. Set up our own saw workshop, hated the turnaround delays sending them to HQ. Always chuckled when the engine crews marvelled at how well the crew boys' gear started and howled. If your tool doesn't start on that first pull, brush monkeys know, that puppy will get some love. Carried spares and tools on our rig.
I'm kind of a saw nut. I run 32:1 in all my two stroke. No issues. No fouled plugs no carbon if you know how to tune one and use quality oil it runs will very little smoke over 40:1. I never run 50:1. Stihl use to recommend 40:1 and then all of a sudden went to 50. Nothing changed, even produced the same saws from year to year and same oils. The swap was EPA emissions related. So in my mind if they use to want you to use 40:1 at one point and for no reason other than EPA went to 50:1 I'm still useing 40 cause that's what they designed it on for those family of engines. Now I use 32:1 for more oil cause I want the protection. With that mix you have to tune it for it cause you will lean out at the same setting as each charge of mix has less fuel and more oil than at 50:1 but again just tune your stuff. Also on that saw if you port the muffler opening and put the dual port cover on it that saw will cut 25-33% faster just from the cover swap and retune. That 066 is giving up slot with that single pencil size exhaust port.
2-stroke 101: If a 2 cycle locks up at high load, it is almost always that it is overheated and the piston is getting too large for the bore. If there was a crank shaft/bearing issue, it would have problems hot or cold. You should not have them run more oil in the mix. That actually makes it run leaner. The carb will send the same volume of mix no matter what - if you add oil you get less gas and a leaner burn. Lean equals overheating and possible piston scuffing / seizing. Read the spark plug after a hard pull - if it looks hot - you need to lean the mix (less oil in the mix and/or carb adjustments...
You need a saw get you an old school McCulloch 10-10, they are the Detroits of chainsaws, they can sit on a shelf for years and with fresh mixed gas most will fire right up.
I finally got rid of my Stihl 026 which I could never hot start, and replaced it with a Milwaukee M-18 battery powered saw. The Milwaukee does everything I now need a chainsaw to do and all I have to do is keep the battery charged and the bar oil reservoir full.
@@mikemullay5622 Not surprised. The 026 is one of the best pro saws around that cc size. It's my go-to for most stuff. I run an 18" Forester platinum and full chisel on mine and it cuts great
I almost rebuilt a Pro Mac 610 which someone threw out. It ran very well but was smoky, meaning that the cylinder was scored. When I found out it was a uniblock (meaning the cylinder and crankcase are one piece) I decided to get rid of it, knowing how difficult a uniblock 2-stroke can be to work on.
Yea those farmertec what use to be Huztle on eBay are ok for what there are lots of guys on the forums are buying the whole kits and building entire saws. Turn out pretty decent. I have all farmertec or Huztle plastics on my ms650
manual says 50-1, but man that seems lean, 40-1 has been my go to for ages for small engines, seems to me my old hody bike ran 20-1 of course that was the 70's . . .
Agreed 50:1 is 2 lean i run 32:1. Every day i log with my 066mag ms461 a homelite sxl925 an a mccullough promac 700. I have ran 50:1 40:1 an now 32:1 an i know that most saws under hard use are alot happier at 32:1.
You are helping out many of us chainsaw massacre serial killer people. Great video tonight - most informative.. Thank you Mr. Tyler. No longer a Park Service Aide. Now, I am full time, and something called a Semi Skilled Laborer! What is cool is now I have this funny thing called insurance. Dennis, in Miami. Bless
Interesting video! Always look forward to your new content. I had to wonder though, wouldn't it have been just as much money to get a brand new chainsaw?
Oh hell no! You can replace a handful of engines for less money than buying New saw. This is one of the biggest saws Stihl sells and they are not cheap! This saw runs a 36” bar a good bit of the time and are made for cutting the big logs, not for homeowners use
Have you looked at the price of the "spares" for Stihl saws - it would probably work out two or three times the price of buying a new one :-( (From memory even just rebuilding the motor would be getting on for double, or maybe even treble, the price Tyler paid for the new motor)
Compare the number of days (or hours) the replacement gives to what the original motor provided, and your friend will discover why Chinese stuff is so "cheap". I used to work for a U.S. electronics maker. Got a million stories.
If you think that saw is a pain try wrlorking on the engine on an 1127 series... There clam shell motors , there basically the farm boss and all those saws built on the same chassis. The 029/290 031/310 and 039/390. Well any of those clamshells are similar.
Check out Walt at Hill Top Saw Shop. His channel is “afleetcommand”. Has the absolute lowdown on all things chainsaw. Looks as if this rebuild/swap went pretty dang good. 👍
I run all my 2stokes at 32-1..... you'll note that we went to 40-1, and then to 50-1 just to satisfy the EPA, meanwhile we started eating motors. 32-1 with a carb adjust, and they'll run forever.
Same, they are simple but never seem to work right. This one refused to start at first with the proper gap on the coil. Tightened it up and runs great. But less than half what the book called for on gap
Starting them cold and pinning the throttle is a good way to wreck any small engine.
Most small engines actually are designed in a way that they do normally start at full throttle. This is a result of how the governor controls the throttle and for most 2 strokes like this saw when starting on choke or half choke the throttle is also open. Have you wrecked many small engines?
@@joec9680most 2 strokes don’t have 8 thousand rpm red lines, I always let my 2 stroke motor bikes warm up a bit before riding . A chain saw or saw is no different.
I build and mod saws on the side, and used to be the foreman of a small tree service company. 066/ ms660 is a fantastic saw. I own 9 saws currently (Stihl/ Husky,) which are all built by myself to a certain degree, some all out, others just a muffler mod/ timing advance. The Farmertec stuff is decent depending on what the part actually is. As far as cylinders/ jugs are concerned I would go OEM or for a high quality aftermarket replacement. I use Meteor Pistons and Caber Rings in all my builds. You can pick up a decent big bore, do a mild port job, throw in the Meteor/ Caber combo and have a kickass reliable saw. HL Supply or Sawagain.com are both excellent vendors to buy quality stuff from. So what was wrong with the current engine? Down on compression? If the cylinder isn't badly scored, fresh rings, piston, gaskets/ hoses will most likely bring it right back to running perfect. The biggest cause of failure besides deteriorated hoses/ gaskets is usually when someone runs straight gas or has the carb so far out of adjustment that it runs the saw lean. Carb adjustment is critical. Couple tips for you since I can tell your pretty new to saw repairs... you don't need the flywheel puller if you are careful. Thread the nut loosely on the crank and tap on crank snout with a hammer and it will pop right off. Use a tach to adjust the carb properly so you don't lean it out and ruin the new cylinder. Set the coil gap with a business card. Perfect size to adjust the air gap. Dual port muffler, and a timing advance will make that saw a whole different animal. You can mod the muffler yourself or buy a dual port one. Cut times are way faster, not to mention it makes the saw run/ sound a hell of a lot better. Adjust the carb afterwards since opening it up/ changing the timing effects the mixture. My 066 has the muffler mod, timing advance, max flow filter, port work, 3/4 wrap handle, big bore with the Meteor/ Caber combo, Stihl OEM large dogs w/ roller catch, Sugihara bar and a badass full chisel. Cuts and runs like a raped ape 😁
Hopefully the carb is properly setup and wasn't running lean causing the seizures on the old engine and soon to be the new engine. I see this repeatedly on 2 stroke engines. Cause of failure on the old engine becomes the cause of failure on the replacement!
I have a smaller Stihl that is always hard to start when cold, probably because I don't use it that often. Outside of that, it runs pretty well. I'm always impressed with the local tree removal company's whose saws seem to start on the first pull and cut the hell out of tree limbs and trunks without a hiccup!
Nice work, Tyler! Hope that engine lasts a while, sure saved some money.
I'm old school, former brush monkey. Our lives depended on those Stihls. Carried a few versions, 034s, 038s, Magnums, and the battleship 044s.
Set up our own saw workshop, hated the turnaround delays sending them to HQ. Always chuckled when the engine crews marvelled at how well the crew boys' gear started and howled.
If your tool doesn't start on that first pull, brush monkeys know, that puppy will get some love. Carried spares and tools on our rig.
I'm kind of a saw nut. I run 32:1 in all my two stroke. No issues. No fouled plugs no carbon if you know how to tune one and use quality oil it runs will very little smoke over 40:1. I never run 50:1. Stihl use to recommend 40:1 and then all of a sudden went to 50. Nothing changed, even produced the same saws from year to year and same oils. The swap was EPA emissions related. So in my mind if they use to want you to use 40:1 at one point and for no reason other than EPA went to 50:1 I'm still useing 40 cause that's what they designed it on for those family of engines. Now I use 32:1 for more oil cause I want the protection. With that mix you have to tune it for it cause you will lean out at the same setting as each charge of mix has less fuel and more oil than at 50:1 but again just tune your stuff.
Also on that saw if you port the muffler opening and put the dual port cover on it that saw will cut 25-33% faster just from the cover swap and retune. That 066 is giving up slot with that single pencil size exhaust port.
Great job and video Tyler, you make it look so easy!
2-stroke 101: If a 2 cycle locks up at high load, it is almost always that it is overheated and the piston is getting too large for the bore. If there was a crank shaft/bearing issue, it would have problems hot or cold. You should not have them run more oil in the mix. That actually makes it run leaner. The carb will send the same volume of mix no matter what - if you add oil you get less gas and a leaner burn. Lean equals overheating and possible piston scuffing / seizing. Read the spark plug after a hard pull - if it looks hot - you need to lean the mix (less oil in the mix and/or carb adjustments...
That's right running them with to much oil makes them to lean and and under a load they will get to hot , thanks
Wow!
Always use the right tool for the job, It works better...
You need a saw get you an old school McCulloch 10-10, they are the Detroits of chainsaws, they can sit on a shelf for years and with fresh mixed gas most will fire right up.
With all that sawdust packed in the case, no wonder it was getting hot and not running
I finally got rid of my Stihl 026 which I could never hot start, and replaced it with a Milwaukee M-18 battery powered saw. The Milwaukee does everything I now need a chainsaw to do and all I have to do is keep the battery charged and the bar oil reservoir full.
026 is a great saw. I own 2 of them, both fully modded by myself. Did you sell yours or you still have it for sale? I'm interested if so.
@@psavel274 I sold it to a guy who is really happy with it.
@@mikemullay5622
Not surprised. The 026 is one of the best pro saws around that cc size. It's my go-to for most stuff. I run an 18" Forester platinum and full chisel on mine and it cuts great
Good info should I should have to take my 028 super apart. The only trouble I ever had with it was old fuel once,
a work with saws everyday. its comment people run saws too lean and when they getting hot it does lock up piston in cylinder.
The new motor looked like it came with cigarette lighter in one of the holes ! smokem if you gottem lol
I almost rebuilt a Pro Mac 610 which someone threw out. It ran very well but was smoky, meaning that the cylinder was scored. When I found out it was a uniblock (meaning the cylinder and crankcase are one piece) I decided to get rid of it, knowing how difficult a uniblock 2-stroke can be to work on.
Another well done job 👍
I mean a rich mix (less oil and or richer carb setting) if it is running hot.
“Every tool has a hammer side” evidently that holds true even for cordless impact guns. i use mine the same way.
It was closer than my hammer lol
Yea those farmertec what use to be Huztle on eBay are ok for what there are lots of guys on the forums are buying the whole kits and building entire saws. Turn out pretty decent. I have all farmertec or Huztle plastics on my ms650
manual says 50-1, but man that seems lean, 40-1 has been my go to for ages for small engines, seems to me my old hody bike ran 20-1 of course that was the 70's . . .
Agreed 50:1 is 2 lean i run 32:1. Every day i log with my 066mag ms461 a homelite sxl925 an a mccullough promac 700. I have ran 50:1 40:1 an now 32:1 an i know that most saws under hard use are alot happier at 32:1.
cool video, keep them coming
You are helping out many of us chainsaw massacre serial killer people. Great video tonight - most informative.. Thank you Mr. Tyler. No longer a Park Service Aide. Now, I am full time, and something called a Semi Skilled Laborer! What is cool is now I have this funny thing called insurance. Dennis, in Miami. Bless
Interesting video! Always look forward to your new content.
I had to wonder though, wouldn't it have been just as much money to get a brand new chainsaw?
So I'm pretty sure the replacement for this saw is the ms660. Which is like $1200. So a $200 motor and buying me some beer is a way better deal.
Oh hell no! You can replace a handful of engines for less money than buying New saw. This is one of the biggest saws Stihl sells and they are not cheap! This saw runs a 36” bar a good bit of the time and are made for cutting the big logs, not for homeowners use
Those small engines can be picky. Sounds like it's ready for work.
business card between the coil and flywheel. tighten and remove card. job done
That's what I did and it wouldn't spark. Had to use a piece of printer paper.
@@Spyke383 the trick is close as possible with out hitting. I guess stihl is a little more picky.
Have your buddy switch to AMSOIL 100/1 and mix at 80/1. Run it in all my 2 cycle engines.
Asking for trouble, my opinion.
Good job.
What was that puller kit number. I have a number of saws and would like to get one
shankly 10pc flywheel puller set off Amazon
Don't shit can the old block... rebuild it and get all the parts to build a new old saw
Have you looked at the price of the "spares" for Stihl saws - it would probably work out two or three times the price of buying a new one :-(
(From memory even just rebuilding the motor would be getting on for double, or maybe even treble, the price Tyler paid for the new motor)
Let buy the old case if you still have it
You pick it up or pay for shipping you can have it
@@Spyke383 Sweet I'll take it!
@@chevy7134 message me on Instagram or Facebook. Shop has accounts on both
Probally the the old motor was the same cheap Chinese Engine!
Compare the number of days (or hours) the replacement gives to what the original motor provided, and your friend will discover why Chinese stuff is so "cheap". I used to work for a U.S. electronics maker. Got a million stories.
Yea but 2-3 of these equals one in price. So it's going to take a while before it's worth it. I don't charge him labor so I think it's worth it.
If you think that saw is a pain try wrlorking on the engine on an 1127 series... There clam shell motors , there basically the farm boss and all those saws built on the same chassis. The 029/290 031/310 and 039/390. Well any of those clamshells are similar.
Check out Walt at Hill Top Saw Shop. His channel is “afleetcommand”. Has the absolute lowdown on all things chainsaw.
Looks as if this rebuild/swap went pretty dang good. 👍
I run all my 2stokes at 32-1..... you'll note that we went to 40-1, and then to 50-1 just to satisfy the EPA, meanwhile we started eating motors. 32-1 with a carb adjust, and they'll run forever.
I always run mine rich. I'd rather kill a few extra plugs than a motor
@@Spyke383 if it ain't blowing smoke, it ain't running right 😀
My two cents:. I liked this video for something a little different.
I dont do small engines my luck is not good with them.
Same, they are simple but never seem to work right. This one refused to start at first with the proper gap on the coil. Tightened it up and runs great. But less than half what the book called for on gap
25:1 on Chinese engines