you probably dont care but does any of you know of a way to get back into an instagram account..? I stupidly lost my account password. I would appreciate any help you can offer me!
These meetings you have been posting are some of my favorites you’ve started doing. Thank you and keep it up mr voice of the industry lol. Can’t wait for the next one.
Thanks for the info. Nice to be able to have access to such lessons. Had never heard of using alcohol to clean fittings. not sure if co-workers would be impressed or laugh if I tried it
I dislike doing duct work so much but I have to accept the fact that in az I have to deal with it being that high static pressure is such a issue in az because of the hack installs that started in the late 80s with new construction which I was apart of for 6 months in the early 90s thanks for sharing the right way to install 👍
Make sure when you pull the inner liner over the start collar to pass over the lock ring very important , your panduit should be tightened pass the lock ring of the collar or boot also We use air seal or mastic on the inside of the inner liner and panduit and fx tape and panduit in the outer liner r8 duct our our targets are to pass below 5% we have no problem here in California Central Valley good video thanks
Excellent class. Clearly explained and easy to understand step by step information and method for the installation of Flex Ductwork (even with the industry terms used).
Great informational content. Really sad that as a brand new homeowner I'm having to teach myself exactly what the hell the HVAC company did all wrong before I bought the house. At least I know who they are and I can just avoid them going forward.
Thats too much waste of drill battery and screws because you drop them, just put the sleeve over the crown with mastic insidr zip tie it and call it a day
When I started installing back in 06 the company that I was working for told us that pookie inside the flex to make the connection was code. Later on I learned it was just one of there things they wanted done.
Mastic the (black trash bag) slide it to the splice collar zip tie it (panda like you guys call it)put the insulation over tip zie it again (not hard) Then the silver trash bag just tape it with silver tape and call it a day
I was taught the term “pookie” came from black pipe thread sealing plumbers I worked with called “pipe dope”. So instead of calling it “dope” in front of a customer they say “pookie” - another code name for narcotics in the 70’s and 80’s. It made sense to me lol
I do new construction lmao we just throw a zip tie on the inside liner then pull the insulation down and ziptie that we also mastic the boots but we don’t actually mastic the flex seems weird/messy to me but to each his own
Air will ALWAYS take the path of least resistance. If at times length +route=larger diameter pipe to keep down static and thus keep up velocity to distribute airflow properly. Duct board to start is at minimal .05 supply to ensure proper airflow. Whereas metal you can start at .08 for supply. Metal is always the best choice. Ductwork was intended as a commercial EXTERNAL insulator. It should NEVER be used as soley as duct. Whom seals the corners? Whom seals each collar put in so that fiberglass is NOT in airstream for the life. One last very important factor.. Duct board ALWAYS molds!
Just curious, what is it like doing hvac in Florida? I’m considering moving there from WA State and would like to know what people think about working in the summers in the humidity. Thanks!
Great information.never been to Florida and guess things are different there.the only people where I live,southern Virginia,that use duct board are the not so desirable company.we use metal all hand made for the jobs.everything you said is true but it all starts with a great duct design.
I have high static pressure on a new 3.5 ton heat pump. I know for sure the flex duct is the issue. I have two 12" coming out of the supply in opposite directions. I know I need an 18" for a 3.5 ton heat pump. I did a diagram layout of the duct in the attic. What would happen if I just replace the two 12" to 18"? Ignoring the downstairs, because everything is between the walls. The problem was even worse with an undersized return. The original and only return was a 24x18. The total static pressure on the unit was .9 W.C. I was able to drop the TESP to .66 by making the return 30x24. Since there is so much static pressure and the unit TESP is a .2 and I need an 18" for a 3.5 ton for 1400 CFM. How big does the supply plenum should be and what shape? Should the supply plenum split to 3 18" going out to each of the 3 distribution boxes? Do the other three distribution boxes also need to be larger? Looking at the triangle shaped supply plenum I have very little room up for a rectangle plenum. I think a 3 feet ductboard supply plenum should work. There is a foot from the Air handler to the ceiling and I think 2 feet from the attic floor to the roof. Now I am looking at two types of designs. Design #1 keeps the 18" ducts straight by having a single 18" coming out of the supply and then a distribution box splitting it to three 18". The sides would be coming out straight to the to side boxes and one going to the third box with a slight curve. Design #2 splits to three right at the supply plenum and goes to each box individually, but all three will have a slight curve. I will not be using any metal plenums..... it will be all flex duct and ductboard boxes, because of budget. I am not trying to make a perfect system, but trying to remove the restriction from the 12" undersized ducts installed and replacing the flex duct that was patched with mastic with new ones. Another question about the installation..... I have the flex duct running up and strapped to the roof for support. Since the supply plenum is low to the floor due to the roof..... Can the flex duct be run on the attic floor? Can you tell me which layout makes more sense and less restrictive? Thank you. Layouts: Current i.ibb.co/Ld9kmPM/Flex-Duct-Layout-and-Size.jpg Option #1 i.ibb.co/GHyS00g/2022-07-05-0002.jpg Option #2 i.ibb.co/PNN8mSB/2022-07-05-0001.jpg Air Handler Specs ibb.co/17VvF4B Video of attic ua-cam.com/video/iInIN89q8GU/v-deo.html
When attempting to make improvements on an existing system... Would You Rather: Have a 1” filter in the factory position next to the evap coil? Or Have a 4” filter in the return grill 10’ from from the air handler. All else being equal...should I be more worried about the poor airflow of the 1” or the negitave pressure exerted on a length of flex duct? Thanks, learning so much.
I’m not a fan of flex duct. Should be used for terminations only. Rodents chew right thru it. With all the prep, sealant, bands, mastic, tape, etc, needed to make sure the flex doesn’t fall off or leak, I would rather just run steel duct. The cellophane inner liner, with spring, disintegrates, and doesn’t have a very long lifespan. I guess that’s OK in Florida, if the houses only last 15 years.
In some counties in my state they don't allow pookie or duct seal on the duct work. I heard this about 3 years ago. I would have to find out if it still holds true though.
This is the weekly meeting that my company does not have. I'm gonna see I can get my boss to start showing these videos once a week. Maybe we'll actually have meetings then.
Flex was designed to use in short lengths from the REAL duct system to the diffuser. Now everyone uses it for complete systems. There are areas in the US, where you can’t use more than several feet of it.
Those city inspectors have a poor outlook when it comes to the outer insulation of flex having to have a mastic application. That would be about the same as putting mastic around a radiator hose and clamp on a pickup truck. What is the point when its already sealed up with the inner duct ? The outer duct has zero pressure, all it is doing it providing a dead air space for insulation purposes. Plus, if there is nothing to support the mastic layer, insulation moves of course and is not rigid, over cycle times etc. my guess is the mastic is going to age, get hard and eventually crack and just one crack clear through is all it takes to make that idea a waste. I agree, good cleaned surface preparation is king and then the foil tape done nice and neatly, evenly so that all of the tape meets the contact surfaces evenly/smoothly will provide a longer lasting connection than only mastic. I like the idea of a mastic application to the inner connection and the metal fitting. That works because the metal fitting is rigid and will support the mastic for a long time regardless of how old it gets. Wider duct straps are better too as 1.5" seems too narrow. Most systems I'd think will need supply dampers at the supply plenum to get the correct tune for most installs, even if just one or two of them do any good out of all of them it worth the effort and cost.
When you have a 2 story space with a single evap and no VFD on the fan you zone with a dump (bypass). With this config there is a single dump vent somewhere. In this case it's downstairs. Would there be any reason you couldn't add zone dampers to that run that would dump downstairs in Winter and upstairs in Summer to make better use of the conditioned air?
Round snaplock duct is way more efficient for long runs, but it requires more labor to install, thats why it isn't used in house installs. But home owners are only interested in cool air coming out of the registers, so it is easier to run a mile of flex and get away with it.
Lol who’s cleaning fittings with alcohol? It’s flex duct for heavens sake. They will do all that and than use duct board, which is the real problem for leakage. Duct board is a terrible product.
I DISAGREE ON THE CONNECTION PROCESS HE DESCRIBED VOCATIONAL TRAINED journeyman 3o years insanity way to much If you put a hanger on flex every four feet and tape flex your fired asap
termites ? how come we are buying homes or you CAN buy homes that are over 15 years old ,,,,! or spraying our homes properly for termites ? and who can afford a home every 15 years hell avarage young person now cant even afford an old one even ,,,,,that is a stupid idea thats going to cost billions .
wow I wished I worked for a company that trains like this.
thanks
I think Kalos is hiring.
I wish i could find a company like this to do the work on my house
you probably dont care but does any of you know of a way to get back into an instagram account..?
I stupidly lost my account password. I would appreciate any help you can offer me!
@Jeffery Lukas instablaster :)
Really like the whole classroom format and longer length from these last few videos super informative my man thank you.
Glad you like them!
These meetings you have been posting are some of my favorites you’ve started doing. Thank you and keep it up mr voice of the industry lol. Can’t wait for the next one.
More to come!
You are best teacher! My english bad, but i am learning for understanding every your lesson!
Thank you! 😃
Thanks for the info. Nice to be able to have access to such lessons. Had never heard of using alcohol to clean fittings. not sure if co-workers would be impressed or laugh if I tried it
I dislike doing duct work so much but I have to accept the fact that in az I have to deal with it being that high static pressure is such a issue in az because of the hack installs that started in the late 80s with new construction which I was apart of for 6 months in the early 90s thanks for sharing the right way to install 👍
ETomatoeMan that’s what I’m saying it was chas Roberts back in 92 what 2 companies was it
Have you been to the R.O.C. For your license
Cuz last I heard they aren’t testing because of Covid my brother barely got his R.O.C. Card after the first out break
You are correct the installations in Phoenix AZ are shockingly bad.
Vic? Albanian right? Here in florida bosnians and albanians do ac work only
I'd hate doing hvac in Florida with all this talk of ductboard and flex 😤
It sucks, and it’s what is being used in production homes all over the south 99.9% of the time and at all price points. Throwaway junk.
duct board is for lazy techs
Good lesson for me as a soon to be home owner\builder. Now I will watch my HVAC guys,
Great teaching with understandable explanations. Thanks!
Make sure when you pull the inner liner over the start collar to pass over the lock ring very important , your panduit should be tightened pass the lock ring of the collar or boot also
We use air seal or mastic on the inside of the inner liner and panduit and fx tape and panduit in the outer liner r8 duct our our targets are to pass below 5% we have no problem here in California Central Valley good video thanks
Great class Brian 👏 👌 👍 🙌
I feel part of your team when I am setting in front of my computer taking this class to become a better tech. 🙂
Excellent class. Clearly explained and easy to understand step by step information and method for the installation of Flex Ductwork (even with the industry terms used).
These meetings are great. Thank you Bryan
Glad you like them!
I was taught to use a screws to attach the inner duct too a collar a strap then mask.
Great informational content. Really sad that as a brand new homeowner I'm having to teach myself exactly what the hell the HVAC company did all wrong before I bought the house. At least I know who they are and I can just avoid them going forward.
Been straping my flex every 2' always get compliments from inspectors.
In Indiana we tape inner liner, squeegee with hands, panduit strap on outside, we also mastic inside boots and boots to the boot rails.
When we make any connection between flex and hard duct we use a zip tie and screws through the zip tie into the duct.
Thats too much waste of drill battery and screws because you drop them, just put the sleeve over the crown with mastic insidr zip tie it and call it a day
When I started installing back in 06 the company that I was working for told us that pookie inside the flex to make the connection was code. Later on I learned it was just one of there things they wanted done.
Would you have more duct layout and installation videos please
That's my nick name at work! Pooky. Love the Pooky reference on here.😁
Very good explanation and knowledge.
Thank you for sharing
Glad it was helpful!
Mastic on inner liner, slide over collar, put a panduit on, slide over insulation with panduit. Grant is correct. Did it for ten years in az.
I thought he said don’t put a panda strap on the outside of insulation and vapor barrier
Mastic the (black trash bag) slide it to the splice collar zip tie it (panda like you guys call it)put the insulation over tip zie it again (not hard)
Then the silver trash bag just tape it with silver tape and call it a day
Awesome and helpful video Bryan, I like the classroom meeting video.
Glad it was helpful!
13:00 thats how we do it in texas mastic around edges of collar then mastic on flex, then slide over the collar.
Great class Bryan. Thank you.
Glad you enjoyed it!
I’ve started to use these for our work meetings. Thank you for sharing
You're so welcome!
Great video. Dream employer.
I was taught the term “pookie” came from black pipe thread sealing plumbers I worked with called “pipe dope”. So instead of calling it “dope” in front of a customer they say “pookie” - another code name for narcotics in the 70’s and 80’s. It made sense to me lol
Thanks. Always great learning.
Just look at that beautiful Milwaukee in the background
I learned alot. Thank you
Good information ,as usual.
Thanks 👍
I do new construction lmao we just throw a zip tie on the inside liner then pull the insulation down and ziptie that we also mastic the boots but we don’t actually mastic the flex seems weird/messy to me but to each his own
I figured out the leaky issues back in the’70s cheep caulk now I saw spray foam the whole thing
AWESOME EDUCATIONAL VIDEO ‼️‼️
Air will ALWAYS take the path of least resistance. If at times length +route=larger diameter pipe to keep down static and thus keep up velocity to distribute airflow properly. Duct board to start is at minimal .05 supply to ensure proper airflow. Whereas metal you can start at .08 for supply. Metal is always the best choice. Ductwork was intended as a commercial EXTERNAL insulator. It should NEVER be used as soley as duct. Whom seals the corners? Whom seals each collar put in so that fiberglass is NOT in airstream for the life. One last very important factor.. Duct board ALWAYS molds!
Great job and video
Thanks!
Just curious, what is it like doing hvac in Florida? I’m considering moving there from WA State and would like to know what people think about working in the summers in the humidity. Thanks!
Snap lock/ adjustable 90s dont leak nearly as much when properly sealed
I learned a lot from this
Thanks
In Australia, bucketloads of black duct tape will hold anything.
Keeps my girlfriend quiet
In SC if I can do metal, should I even be considering ductboard?
Snaplock pipe.. Round adjustable elbow.. 🤓
Great information.never been to Florida and guess things are different there.the only people where I live,southern Virginia,that use duct board are the not so desirable company.we use metal all hand made for the jobs.everything you said is true but it all starts with a great duct design.
Very true!
your videos on UA-cam are very good, where is the HVAC school located? Blessings.
I'm glad my inspectors don't care about mastic on the outside layer
I have high static pressure on a new 3.5 ton heat pump. I know for sure the flex duct is the issue. I have two 12" coming out of the supply in opposite directions. I know I need an 18" for a 3.5 ton heat pump. I did a diagram layout of the duct in the attic. What would happen if I just replace the two 12" to 18"?
Ignoring the downstairs, because everything is between the walls. The problem was even worse with an undersized return. The original and only return was a 24x18. The total static pressure on the unit was .9 W.C. I was able to drop the TESP to .66 by making the return 30x24. Since there is so much static pressure and the unit TESP is a .2 and I need an 18" for a 3.5 ton for 1400 CFM. How big does the supply plenum should be and what shape? Should the supply plenum split to 3 18" going out to each of the 3 distribution boxes? Do the other three distribution boxes also need to be larger?
Looking at the triangle shaped supply plenum I have very little room up for a rectangle plenum. I think a 3 feet ductboard supply plenum should work. There is a foot from the Air handler to the ceiling and I think 2 feet from the attic floor to the roof. Now I am looking at two types of designs. Design #1 keeps the 18" ducts straight by having a single 18" coming out of the supply and then a distribution box splitting it to three 18". The sides would be coming out straight to the to side boxes and one going to the third box with a slight curve. Design #2 splits to three right at the supply plenum and goes to each box individually, but all three will have a slight curve. I will not be using any metal plenums..... it will be all flex duct and ductboard boxes, because of budget. I am not trying to make a perfect system, but trying to remove the restriction from the 12" undersized ducts installed and replacing the flex duct that was patched with mastic with new ones.
Another question about the installation..... I have the flex duct running up and strapped to the roof for support. Since the supply plenum is low to the floor due to the roof..... Can the flex duct be run on the attic floor? Can you tell me which layout makes more sense and less restrictive? Thank you.
Layouts:
Current
i.ibb.co/Ld9kmPM/Flex-Duct-Layout-and-Size.jpg
Option #1
i.ibb.co/GHyS00g/2022-07-05-0002.jpg
Option #2
i.ibb.co/PNN8mSB/2022-07-05-0001.jpg
Air Handler Specs
ibb.co/17VvF4B
Video of attic
ua-cam.com/video/iInIN89q8GU/v-deo.html
Good training
Thanks 👍
Putting mastic on the OUTSIDE of the inner liner...noooo! It won't seal the duct to the collar!
When attempting to make improvements on an existing system...
Would You Rather:
Have a 1” filter in the factory position next to the evap coil? Or
Have a 4” filter in the return grill 10’ from from the air handler.
All else being equal...should I be more worried about the poor airflow of the 1” or
the negitave pressure exerted on a length of flex duct?
Thanks, learning so much.
your filter should be before the coil and the blower
Don't use the factory filter in the air handler, install filter grills in the house return to make life easier for changing filters.
I have flex duct now but am going to switch to hard duct can I use the flex duct for my insulation of the hard by sliding in inside the flex thanks
I want to see one of these snap lock 90’s 😂
Issue with using mastic on inside is mold growth.
I’m not a fan of flex duct. Should be used for terminations only. Rodents chew right thru it. With all the prep, sealant, bands, mastic, tape, etc, needed to make sure the flex doesn’t fall off or leak, I would rather just run steel duct. The cellophane inner liner, with spring, disintegrates, and doesn’t have a very long lifespan. I guess that’s OK in Florida, if the houses only last 15 years.
So... what do you do about dampers?... or do you just not use them?
In some counties in my state they don't allow pookie or duct seal on the duct work. I heard this about 3 years ago. I would have to find out if it still holds true though.
This is the weekly meeting that my company does not have. I'm gonna see I can get my boss to start showing these videos once a week. Maybe we'll actually have meetings then.
8:10. I’m Florida as well. Where in code does it mention this?
Y'all need a room mic.
Working on that
Flex is used only to connect duct to a plenum or duct to a small fan. Never use flex as a substitute for duct.
Flex was designed to use in short lengths from the REAL duct system to the diffuser. Now everyone uses it for complete systems. There are areas in the US, where you can’t use more than several feet of it.
Aeroseal!
Those city inspectors have a poor outlook when it comes to the outer insulation of flex having to have a mastic application. That would be about the same as putting mastic around a radiator hose and clamp on a pickup truck.
What is the point when its already sealed up with the inner duct ? The outer duct has zero pressure, all it is doing it providing a dead air space for insulation purposes. Plus, if there is nothing to support the mastic layer, insulation moves of course and is not rigid, over cycle times etc. my guess is the mastic is going to age, get hard and eventually crack and just one crack clear through is all it takes to make that idea a waste. I agree, good cleaned surface preparation is king and then the foil tape done nice and neatly, evenly so that all of the tape meets the contact surfaces evenly/smoothly will provide a longer lasting connection than only mastic. I like the idea of a mastic application to the inner connection and the metal fitting. That works because the metal fitting is rigid and will support the mastic for a long time regardless of how old it gets. Wider duct straps are better too as 1.5" seems too narrow. Most systems I'd think will need supply dampers at the supply plenum to get the correct tune for most installs, even if just one or two of them do any good out of all of them it worth the effort and cost.
Turbulence being static pressure
how about flex duct to metal wyes...
I wished he would have had visual aids for this. I know I'm just a lay person but I'm trying to understand my system that's in the basement.
Move the system???? I don't know about that!!
Flex works great but use hard 90s.
We call it pookie in Colorado lol
Everywhere that I been to they call it pookie l
When you have a 2 story space with a single evap and no VFD on the fan you zone with a dump (bypass). With this config there is a single dump vent somewhere. In this case it's downstairs. Would there be any reason you couldn't add zone dampers to that run that would dump downstairs in Winter and upstairs in Summer to make better use of the conditioned air?
It drives me CRAZY when theses kids call mastic. PUKEEE!!! Also
Good talk, might work better with more visuals.
Is it worth running R-8 ducts in a uninsulated attic ? I’m not in HVAC business just a home owner in the south
If your attic is uninsulated, why not put a radient barrier under the roof to keep both the ducts and house interior much cooler?
Yes and so would an attic power vent.
I prefer to clean my fittings with Tito’s myself. 😉
Why is the woman on her phone during this?
we call it pookie oohhh goodness.
Hog hair? Does he mean filter Media?
Yes
Round snaplock duct is way more efficient for long runs, but it requires more labor to install, thats why it isn't used in house installs. But home owners are only interested in cool air coming out of the registers, so it is easier to run a mile of flex and get away with it.
Why is she there
Do your best pookie the rest hahaha sorry i had to say it for the west coast
First
POOKIE
wheres the demo.... a lot of talkin for zero demo
Lol who’s cleaning fittings with alcohol? It’s flex duct for heavens sake. They will do all that and than use duct board, which is the real problem for leakage. Duct board is a terrible product.
I DISAGREE ON THE CONNECTION PROCESS HE DESCRIBED VOCATIONAL TRAINED journeyman 3o years insanity way to much
If you put a hanger on flex every four feet and tape flex your fired asap
termites ? how come we are buying homes or you CAN buy homes that are over 15 years old ,,,,! or spraying our homes properly for termites ? and who can afford a home every 15 years hell avarage young person now cant even afford an old one even ,,,,,that is a stupid idea thats going to cost billions .
I hope that girl on her phone in the front row doesn't work on my HVAC system.
I do not believe turbulence in a ducked system really makes that much of a difference. I believe this is a lot over kill
What facts or data do you have to back up your beliefs?
I wouldn’t recommend putting any animals in your ducts... this will greatly impact airflow...
You are wrong...turbulence creates an "air bubble" effect inside the ducts and makes a blockage vs. a pathway.