@ArtistBlade1972 Best is very subjective and each grind certainly has their place in the world. One of the biggest issues is that most knives produced today are overbuilt and they don't allow you to maintain proper edge geometry, or create an edge that will work with a multitude of tasks. All of Murray's knives are designed for cutting with 5 specific criteria: blade geometry, ease of maintenance, durability, sharpness, and edge holding ability.
I convex just about every knife. I'm guessing that's William's tip about the sandpaper,,he passed that along to me. I've used strops for my convex forever. Anyway, thanks for sharing
Theres one thing I am a bit confused.. are you referring to the edge angle when you say beef it up? because obviously you cant rethicken a blade... Thanks!
What is your take on the scandinavian grind? Obviously if sharpened by hand it would become slightly convex as well. What do you feel is the best grind for an all purpose utility type knife?
My bark river and fallkniven have performed just fine in the field, your statement is kind of correct depending on quality of knife and the steel used though.
Hello, Great video. I see that you are holding the knife almost 90 degree relative to the stone when you are sharpening the knife. I tend to hold the knife more like 45 degree relative to the stone. Can I use this angle of approach when using this rocking motion or will the result be better if I hold the knife 90 degree?
I think that convexes are a good overall option. A well made convex will be tough and a sharp cutter, unlike a thicker flat grind which will be heavier and will not cut as well. But the actual convexity of a knife can vary. Carter, if you get a chance, check out a custom knife maker called "Turley Knives". He makes some absolutely fantastic hard use woods knives.
You are right. Many edges are overbuilt to be "razor sharp out of the box", with the main purpose of giving a momentary pleasure to the buyer when they are basically, "invited" to cut a piece of paper to assure themselves that they bought, well, a paper cutter that will not perform in the field.
I agree with the concepts here...best method is to use the entire stone during a sharpening session. But really, sidewalks are not particularly flat or smooth, there may be 1/16-3/32 sand grains on the exposed concrete surface...I wouldn't even consider scratching away on a $80 stone by rubbing it on a sidewalk. Medium grit wet/dry paper on wet glass is about as radical as I would go. If you have $800 worth of stones, consider investing in a diamond plate a good investment.
lol i dont think any cold steel knife that I'm aware of has a convex edge, I agree they are overbuilt. They are typically either a full flat or sabre grind with a thick but flat primary edge. I think people are talking about knives like bark river and fallkniven when there thinking of convex edges.
My previous comment was posted here accidentally, and was intended to post on the video about Sharpening Stone Maintenance, and will make more sense in that context.
I would like to see Mr. Carter Sharpen a Cold Steel Recon 1 with a Tanto Blade a Plain Edge. I would like to see how he would sharpen that and another problem is that also me the CTS XHP Steel. High Carbon High Chromium Alloy. I know he CAN do it I just want to see how. I have a Recon 1 with a Clip Point Blade and sharpened on it some and the Grind Lines got just a bit uneven SO I sent it to a Professional Knife Sharpener. Now it is SCALPEL SHARP. I have a few different sharpeners. I was thinking of Buying a WorkSharp that moves with the shape of the blade or the KME Sharpener that was the No# 1 Rated Sharpener of 2015 and Maybe 2016 too.If Mr. Carter reads this I hope he will Make a video Demonstrating it. L want to see him Sharpen the BIG Hard Tough and Thick Steel Knives because i want to learn how to Sharp those type of Knives. Yes Cold Steel Is a Good Knife maker and the edges last a long time, BUT some of the Steels have to Be Sharpened by a Professional. Sorry for rambling and IF anyone has some advice to help me Sharpen any Knife I have or by in the Future I will Listen. Knife and Gun Nut. D. Neal Linville
I admire this skill very much and would absolutely love to be able to sharpen freehand to a point where my knife can shave facial hair. Nothing but respect for this idea of thinking and the obvious results it creates. But, doesn't it take ages to master and what if knives are of a bad quality of steel, wouldn't you take more off of the stone than the knife? I don't have enough skill to sharpen free hand and if somebody wants a knife sharpening that is of a low quality steel I'd rather use something diamond based or even a belt sander type product instead of ruining a decent quality japanese stone... with all that said I would love to produce the kind of edges that this guy does :( I'm just not that skilled. I guess I'l stick to the jigs and devices :( Confused and unsure of what to do after seeing this video because I like the philosophy involved and the obvious results. - Low quality steels will wear out a good japanese stone. - This skill takes years to truly master. - more modern methods are surely way quicker? This isn't criticism, I'd love to be able to sharpen like this but these are the pitfalls I see in this way of sharpening
actually low quality steels will not wear out a Japanese stone that much. bad quality steel is usually alot softer then most high quality steels. and dont be discouraged with freehand sharpening... it really isnt a science. ive only been sharpening freehand for about a month now and my edges can whittle hair after practicing. a good source of information on freehand sharpening is jdavis882 he has many sharpening videos that are incredibly easy to understand. and theres nothing wrong with using jigs and devices. the reason murry dislikes them so much is because hes spent his entire life dedicated to mastering blade smithing in the traditional japanese way and so freehand sharpening is kind of spiritual to him in a sense... just go out and practice on a bunch of cheap knives and youll understand what hes saying after about a month or so of practice. i use a coarse, fine, extra fine dmt diamond stone set then i use a spyderco ultra fine bench stone then i finish it up with a stropman strop and the edges i get are mirrored and beyond razor sharp and all i did was watch murry and jdavis882 for information then i just went at it and did it and ive had fantastic results. so dont be discouraged with it just practice and have confidence and youll be amazed how your results turn out... good luck with future sharpening however you choose to do it and i hope this was a little helpful
flex93312 I went with DMT stones originally, and spyderco fused ceramic stones after watching Jdavis, and Richard blaine, I found that I really hate diamond stones and hard ceramics. water stone are just so easy to use somehow, and keeping them flat is not nearly as big a deal as it sounds. I use DMT stones for lapping, and occasional sharpening, but thats all!
Great videos. I think im pretty good at freehand sharpening already. But these videos still help me out a lot.
@ArtistBlade1972 Best is very subjective and each grind certainly has their place in the world. One of the biggest issues is that most knives produced today are overbuilt and they don't allow you to maintain proper edge geometry, or create an edge that will work with a multitude of tasks. All of Murray's knives are designed for cutting with 5 specific criteria: blade geometry, ease of maintenance, durability, sharpness, and edge holding ability.
I convex just about every knife. I'm guessing that's William's tip about the sandpaper,,he passed that along to me. I've used strops for my convex forever. Anyway, thanks for sharing
Theres one thing I am a bit confused.. are you referring to the edge angle when you say beef it up? because obviously you cant rethicken a blade... Thanks!
What is your take on the scandinavian grind? Obviously if sharpened by hand it would become slightly convex as well. What do you feel is the best grind for an all purpose utility type knife?
My bark river and fallkniven have performed just fine in the field, your statement is kind of correct depending on quality of knife and the steel used though.
Hello, Great video. I see that you are holding the knife almost 90 degree relative to the stone when you are sharpening the knife. I tend to hold the knife more like 45 degree relative to the stone. Can I use this angle of approach when using this rocking motion or will the result be better if I hold the knife 90 degree?
Thank you for this video! Very informative!
I think that convexes are a good overall option. A well made convex will be tough and a sharp cutter, unlike a thicker flat grind which will be heavier and will not cut as well. But the actual convexity of a knife can vary. Carter, if you get a chance, check out a custom knife maker called "Turley Knives". He makes some absolutely fantastic hard use woods knives.
Always wondered how that was attained using stones... Thanks.
You are right. Many edges are overbuilt to be "razor sharp out of the box", with the main purpose of giving a momentary pleasure to the buyer when they are basically, "invited" to cut a piece of paper to assure themselves that they bought, well, a paper cutter that will not perform in the field.
I agree with the concepts here...best method is to use the entire stone during a sharpening session.
But really, sidewalks are not particularly flat or smooth, there may be 1/16-3/32 sand grains on the exposed concrete surface...I wouldn't even consider scratching away on a $80 stone by rubbing it on a sidewalk. Medium grit wet/dry paper on wet glass is about as radical as I would go.
If you have $800 worth of stones, consider investing in a diamond plate a good investment.
If I sharpen at a 12 degree angle do I need to thin my knife (ever)? If so how often?
so what is the sharpest convex edge angels for kitchen knife?
Any tips on sharpening a Ka-Bar? Mine has me about ready to chunk it!
You are my hero...That was awesome. I am assuming you can sharpen an Ax just like that too
Thank you. I just found you from word of mouth
lol i dont think any cold steel knife that I'm aware of has a convex edge, I agree they are overbuilt. They are typically either a full flat or sabre grind with a thick but flat primary edge. I think people are talking about knives like bark river and fallkniven when there thinking of convex edges.
@Quoiyaien I think he means raise the angle. As you grind away at the new angle you'll hit thicker steel.
Great vid, Mr. Carter.
Iz
My previous comment was posted here accidentally, and was intended to post on the video about Sharpening Stone Maintenance, and will make more sense in that context.
Imagine a huge wide knife with no micro bevel and a perfectly straight and no concave blade and edge.. Like a perfect flattened "v"
I would like to see Mr. Carter Sharpen a Cold Steel Recon 1 with a Tanto Blade a Plain Edge. I would like to see how he would sharpen that and another problem is that also me the CTS XHP Steel. High Carbon High Chromium Alloy. I know he CAN do it I just want to see how. I have a Recon 1 with a Clip Point Blade and sharpened on it some and the Grind Lines got just a bit uneven SO I sent it to a Professional Knife Sharpener. Now it is SCALPEL SHARP. I have a few different sharpeners. I was thinking of Buying a WorkSharp that moves with the shape of the blade or the KME Sharpener that was the No# 1 Rated Sharpener of 2015 and Maybe 2016 too.If Mr. Carter reads this I hope he will Make a video Demonstrating it. L want to see him Sharpen the BIG Hard Tough and Thick Steel Knives because i want to learn how to Sharp those type of Knives. Yes Cold Steel Is a Good Knife maker and the edges last a long time, BUT some of the Steels have to Be Sharpened by a Professional. Sorry for rambling and IF anyone has some advice to help me Sharpen any Knife I have or by in the Future I will Listen.
Knife and Gun Nut.
D. Neal Linville
I admire this skill very much and would absolutely love to be able to sharpen freehand to a point where my knife can shave facial hair. Nothing but respect for this idea of thinking and the obvious results it creates. But, doesn't it take ages to master and what if knives are of a bad quality of steel, wouldn't you take more off of the stone than the knife? I don't have enough skill to sharpen free hand and if somebody wants a knife sharpening that is of a low quality steel I'd rather use something diamond based or even a belt sander type product instead of ruining a decent quality japanese stone... with all that said I would love to produce the kind of edges that this guy does :( I'm just not that skilled.
I guess I'l stick to the jigs and devices :( Confused and unsure of what to do after seeing this video because I like the philosophy involved and the obvious results.
- Low quality steels will wear out a good japanese stone.
- This skill takes years to truly master.
- more modern methods are surely way quicker?
This isn't criticism, I'd love to be able to sharpen like this but these are the pitfalls I see in this way of sharpening
actually low quality steels will not wear out a Japanese stone that much. bad quality steel is usually alot softer then most high quality steels. and dont be discouraged with freehand sharpening... it really isnt a science. ive only been sharpening freehand for about a month now and my edges can whittle hair after practicing. a good source of information on freehand sharpening is jdavis882 he has many sharpening videos that are incredibly easy to understand. and theres nothing wrong with using jigs and devices. the reason murry dislikes them so much is because hes spent his entire life dedicated to mastering blade smithing in the traditional japanese way and so freehand sharpening is kind of spiritual to him in a sense... just go out and practice on a bunch of cheap knives and youll understand what hes saying after about a month or so of practice. i use a coarse, fine, extra fine dmt diamond stone set then i use a spyderco ultra fine bench stone then i finish it up with a stropman strop and the edges i get are mirrored and beyond razor sharp and all i did was watch murry and jdavis882 for information then i just went at it and did it and ive had fantastic results. so dont be discouraged with it just practice and have confidence and youll be amazed how your results turn out... good luck with future sharpening however you choose to do it and i hope this was a little helpful
flex93312 I went with DMT stones originally, and spyderco fused ceramic stones after watching Jdavis, and Richard blaine, I found that I really hate diamond stones and hard ceramics. water stone are just so easy to use somehow, and keeping them flat is not nearly as big a deal as it sounds. I use DMT stones for lapping, and occasional sharpening, but thats all!
Non ho mio visto affilate un colyello tanto