This is so helpful. I was quoted £200 to replace a radiator, not including the cost of the radiator itself, by a local handyman. Watching this, I feel it’s actually something that I could do myself. Thank you for this.
A great job again from you and the missus. Thank you. I have to change a single rad to a double, but have no leeway on the feed and return copper pipes from the floor. I'm going to disconnect the radiator, then turn the valves towards me through 90 degrees, as the new radiator will be twice the depth of the single. Then I'll connect up the valve and rad with 90 degree pipework. Just a suggestion for anyone who has the same problem. Have a happy New Year and all the best for 2023.
I’ve got the same problem. I was thinking the same about turning the valves towards me, but can’t figure out what 90 degree pipe work to get to make it work, are you able to share some link for what part you got? Thank you!
brilliant vid i had a plastering job done to my wall behind the rad he took the rad off but bent the pipe foward a good bit when i went to put the rad back on i need to stragent it up but im worried i will crack the pipe coming up from the concreate floor
When you double your output in this manner for the rad being upgraded does your boiler have to work a little harder as a result? I have five seven rads that could potentially be swapped for double panel convection rads but concerned about the boiler strength. At the moment I have a total of ten rads in the system including towel rail and two double rads.
dereton33 My boiler is already struggling with what I have. Doesn't get hardley any heat to the furthest rad (which is a double). Have tried balancing by opening up the lockshield and working my way back closing off the others a quarter turn as I go back towards the boiler but it's only slightly warm at the top. If I isolate it so it's the only rad turned on through the system it heats up.
Brilliant and very informative videos. Thank you for sharing the knowledge. In my house I have old singe radiators installed but I would like to replace them with double radiators. It's very difficult yo find exact length of the double radiators and I'm worried that the distance from the wall of the double radiator would be off from the existing copper pipe coming out of the fixed floor. I'm thinking may be I can cut the copper pipes above floor level and install plastic straight connecters and then use PEX or plastic flexi piper to connect to the new double radiators. If possible can you please make a video to help with this or provide guidance. Your help is much appreciated. Kind regards
@@dereton33yes how come the valve was still the correct distance from the wall for the double? I find the valve is 3 or 4cm from the wall for a single and 7 or 8cm from the wall for a double. Where do you buy double radiators that have the inlets remain 3 or 4cm from the wall?
@@dereton33 Sorry i wasn't clear with my question. I was thinking depth rather than length, a K3 is going to be deeper than say a K1 and as such the valve flow inlet centre on the K3 might be say 30mm further from the wall. Presumably a copper pipe "S" shape might take care of that. I'd like to see a video of you doing that if the opportunity comes your way.
Thanks for the tutorial. I've taken off my old rad and got the new one lined up (upstairs, opposite end of the house to the boiler). I failed to note down the number of turns on the lockshield valve (been redecorating for a couple of weeks). Should I just reopen it a couple of turns and hope for the best? If it knocks out the balance I'd that something I can sort later on?
You prolly dont give a damn but does anyone know a way to log back into an Instagram account?? I somehow lost the password. I appreciate any tricks you can give me.
@Pedro James I really appreciate your reply. I found the site thru google and Im in the hacking process atm. Takes a while so I will get back to you later with my results.
Hi, thanks for the video which is great by the way, just one question -- when you have every connected back up with the new radiator do you open the lockshield and then bleed the radiator as in the video? or do you open the trv, then the lockshield then bleed it?
What do you do when there is absolutely no play in the pipe, and the rad pipework is plastered over in a blockwork wall, and only extends as far out from the wall as the radiator valve, and all that is left sticking out is 30mm of copper pipe with a soldered elbow, with another short bit of copper pipe up into the radiator valve.........?
@@dereton33 Thank you for your quick reply, but there is not enough pipe sticking out of the wall to get a straight connector on, and then solder on an elbow or bend into the valve.
Great vids. Thanks. When looking for a new radiator where do you measure from and to, to make sure the replacement isn't too long/short please? What are the dimensions quoted online?
Great informative video. Just one thing I'm wondering, if the pipes are coming up from a concrete floor does this mean some new pipework will be needed or would there still be a little play in them?
lovely clear video. I have two rads I need to replace so I have no excuse now. Just a quick question - I have a open vented system is there any benefit in topping the rad up with water as well as inhibitor.. or should I just let the F and E tank do it's job ( not sure how much sludge is in it! )
Hi @dereton33, I have been watching your videos and they have helped me a lot I got to say. :) this one specially. I wanted to ask though. I want to change my single to a double/triple column one, but I am not sure of the wall will hold these? I see that you use the "standard type 22" but would you recommend a column one?
Double radiators can be very bulky compare to single ones checkout type 21 radiators these are double radiators but in all the sense look like a single radiator
Did you put the Teflon tape on backwards? You wrapped it Lefty Loosely, but the fitting went in Righty Tighty! I'm actually being serious. Does this matter?
hello that was a real plumber job ,iam from algeria and i do work as a plumber since 2006 and soon iam coming to uk ,what do i need to be a certified plumber ?and is it necessary to learn how to write perfect english for the job ? although i can talk and communicate in english language quite good
Algerino Vero If you want to be a general plumber. You can learn on the job. If you want to do any gas related work. You'll have to do your ACS city and guilds to become Gas Safe Registered along with putting a portfolio together. You'll have to do this with an accredited Gas Safe Registered heating & plumbing engineer.
Lovely an Ideal boiler, I call it, A pain in the A**e. Now you've added that rad it's going to bring on a host of new problems. You should've changed the boiler 😂, great vid ✌
good vid..but find it much easier to just line rad agin the wall and place a mark where the bracket edge will be then use a level to draw a straight edge.....next measure floor to valve centre / bottom edge of bracket centre to bottom edge of radiator / add these two measurements and then subtract distance of rad edge to valve centre/ get your calculation and mark position of bracket on wall/ easy peasy lemon squeezy
Some important things wasn't covered. Types of walls and the fixings for them. Plasterboard vs solid wall. If that was on plaster it would eventually fall off with plugs or come loose at least. Or not withstand too much force put on the radiator.
This is so helpful. I was quoted £200 to replace a radiator, not including the cost of the radiator itself, by a local handyman. Watching this, I feel it’s actually something that I could do myself. Thank you for this.
Excellent!
You mean a local cowboy?
i think having the wife asking questions makes this video. she asked the same questions i was thinking. nice job.
Thanks Steve.
A great job again from you and the missus. Thank you. I have to change a single rad to a double, but have no leeway on the feed and return copper pipes from the floor. I'm going to disconnect the radiator, then turn the valves towards me through 90 degrees, as the new radiator will be twice the depth of the single. Then I'll connect up the valve and rad with 90 degree pipework. Just a suggestion for anyone who has the same problem. Have a happy New Year and all the best for 2023.
Good luck and have a great new year. 👍
I’ve got the same problem. I was thinking the same about turning the valves towards me, but can’t figure out what 90 degree pipe work to get to make it work, are you able to share some link for what part you got? Thank you!
love Mo your handy assistant. And thanks to camerawoman for asking the right questions
Cheers Paul.
You make it look so easy. Nice job mate.
No problem Lugi.
brilliant vid i had a plastering job done to my wall behind the rad he took the rad off but bent the pipe foward a good bit when i went to put the rad back on i need to stragent it up but im worried i will crack the pipe coming up from the concreate floor
You will have to take a chance. Bend it slowly bit by bit.
loved the way you did your measurement you mad it so mush easy loved the video
Thanks Ratch
Very timely with the beast from the east blowing in 👍
Yes we need all the heat we can get Natasha.
Very comprehensive, thank you.
You're very welcome!
0:24 If I get same size & brand radiator will I need to adjust the brackets? Thank you.
No it should be the same.
@@dereton33 Thank you. Learned a lot from you. Love watching your videos.
Excellent video . . .its a job im about to do in the next few days. Thankyou for the posting
No problem.
When your wife asks too many questions😂
Great video... thank you
Ha ha thanks Ross.
When you double your output in this manner for the rad being upgraded does your boiler have to work a little harder as a result? I have five seven rads that could potentially be swapped for double panel convection rads but concerned about the boiler strength. At the moment I have a total of ten rads in the system including towel rail and two double rads.
It has to work a little harder but the trade off is worth it.
dereton33 My boiler is already struggling with what I have. Doesn't get hardley any heat to the furthest rad (which is a double). Have tried balancing by opening up the lockshield and working my way back closing off the others a quarter turn as I go back towards the boiler but it's only slightly warm at the top. If I isolate it so it's the only rad turned on through the system it heats up.
@@msoutlookenator Have you eliminated sludge/corrosion or air; if so you may need a new boiler. I'm not a plumber so that's my uninformed opinion.
so well explained thank you
Brilliant and very informative videos. Thank you for sharing the knowledge. In my house I have old singe radiators installed but I would like to replace them with double radiators. It's very difficult yo find exact length of the double radiators and I'm worried that the distance from the wall of the double radiator would be off from the existing copper pipe coming out of the fixed floor. I'm thinking may be I can cut the copper pipes above floor level and install plastic straight connecters and then use PEX or plastic flexi piper to connect to the new double radiators. If possible can you please make a video to help with this or provide guidance. Your help is much appreciated. Kind regards
I will see what jobs are coming up.
@@dereton33yes how come the valve was still the correct distance from the wall for the double? I find the valve is 3 or 4cm from the wall for a single and 7 or 8cm from the wall for a double. Where do you buy double radiators that have the inlets remain 3 or 4cm from the wall?
What needs to be done if the flow/return pipe tails were in a concrete floor?
Try and get an exact size replacement. You can also get sliding rad tails if is just a bit smaller.
@@dereton33 Sorry i wasn't clear with my question. I was thinking depth rather than length, a K3 is going to be deeper than say a K1 and as such the valve flow inlet centre on the K3 might be say 30mm further from the wall. Presumably a copper pipe "S" shape might take care of that. I'd like to see a video of you doing that if the opportunity comes your way.
I was relieved to see you turning off that socket!
Yes too close for comfort.
@@dereton33 old build...
Is it not best to change the olives on the rad tails?
Thanks for the tutorial. I've taken off my old rad and got the new one lined up (upstairs, opposite end of the house to the boiler). I failed to note down the number of turns on the lockshield valve (been redecorating for a couple of weeks). Should I just reopen it a couple of turns and hope for the best? If it knocks out the balance I'd that something I can sort later on?
Yes a couple of turns is a safe bet. Sort out any balancing after that.
@@dereton33 thanks for getting back to me. Your videos gave me the confidence to change my first radiator and it has been a great success. Cheers
You prolly dont give a damn but does anyone know a way to log back into an Instagram account??
I somehow lost the password. I appreciate any tricks you can give me.
@Keagan Dylan Instablaster :)
@Pedro James I really appreciate your reply. I found the site thru google and Im in the hacking process atm.
Takes a while so I will get back to you later with my results.
Hi, thanks for the video which is great by the way, just one question -- when you have every connected back up with the new radiator do you open the lockshield and then bleed the radiator as in the video? or do you open the trv, then the lockshield then bleed it?
It does not matter, I have always opened the lockshield first, out of habit.
@@dereton33 thanks for the reply, do I need to lockshield and TRV open to bleed it? I just didn't want to introduce air into the rest of the system
What do you do when there is absolutely no play in the pipe, and the rad pipework is plastered over in a blockwork wall, and only extends as far out from the wall as the radiator valve, and all that is left sticking out is 30mm of copper pipe with a soldered elbow, with another short bit of copper pipe up into the radiator valve.........?
Drain the system and cut the pipe and extend to the new wider measurement.
@@dereton33 Thank you for your quick reply, but there is not enough pipe sticking out of the wall to get a straight connector on, and then solder on an elbow or bend into the valve.
Another great video, thanks
Glad you enjoyed it
Great vid so easy to understand thanks👍👍
No problem Barry.
Great video 👍
Thanks 👍
if these things are filled with water,why isn't there more water coming out of the old radiator?
Great vids. Thanks. When looking for a new radiator where do you measure from and to, to make sure the replacement isn't too long/short please? What are the dimensions quoted online?
I have another video on how to measure for the correct size.
@@dereton33 Found it. Cheers.
Great informative video. Just one thing I'm wondering, if the pipes are coming up from a concrete floor does this mean some new pipework will be needed or would there still be a little play in them?
There should be a little play in them, especially if they are long stems.
Thank you for the quick reply.
lovely clear video. I have two rads I need to replace so I have no excuse now. Just a quick question - I have a open vented system is there any benefit in topping the rad up with water as well as inhibitor.. or should I just let the F and E tank do it's job ( not sure how much sludge is in it! )
No just let the F and E tank do it`s job.
Hi, just had a radiator fitted they told me it was a double but it looks more like a single can you help me is there a way of telling?
Thank you.
A double has two heat panels, one in front and one at the back.
Hi @dereton33, I have been watching your videos and they have helped me a lot I got to say. :) this one specially. I wanted to ask though. I want to change my single to a double/triple column one, but I am not sure of the wall will hold these? I see that you use the "standard type 22" but would you recommend a column one?
Column ones are quite ok.
What's the best boiler for these double radiator?
A Bosch worcester.
Mo - great little helper
She sure is ha ha.
Double radiators can be very bulky compare to single ones checkout type 21 radiators these are double radiators but in all the sense look like a single radiator
Thanks Stewart.
my rads are very old and cant find one to fit
You can get valve extensions to make up any short fall in length.
Did you put the Teflon tape on backwards? You wrapped it Lefty Loosely, but the fitting went in Righty Tighty! I'm actually being serious. Does this matter?
JASON BORDEN yes against the turn so the tape doesn’t unravel
hello that was a real plumber job ,iam from algeria and i do work as a plumber since 2006 and soon iam coming to uk ,what do i need to be a certified plumber ?and is it necessary to learn how to write perfect english for the job ? although i can talk and communicate in english language quite good
You will need to be registered. Guess they might set you a test. Not to sure on this one.
Algerino Vero If you want to be a general plumber. You can learn on the job. If you want to do any gas related work. You'll have to do your ACS city and guilds to become Gas Safe Registered along with putting a portfolio together. You'll have to do this with an accredited Gas Safe Registered heating & plumbing engineer.
I've never put an inhibator in the radiator and i've taken loads of water out of it as i thought it had an air lock!
May need topping up then.
Why can't the radiator manufacturers place the brackets in the same place, that way can just hang the rad on the existing wall hangers.
If only life was that easy.
Remember, the boiler BTU output is not exceeded by all radiators BTU?
Thanks For The Video 👍
No problem.
Nice scooter T-shirt Al.Quadrophinia fan are you? 👍
Yes 😁
Make sure your boiler can do it
Most are oversized.
@@dereton33 agree but it’s worth checking
Lovely an Ideal boiler, I call it, A pain in the A**e. Now you've added that rad it's going to bring on a host of new problems. You should've changed the boiler 😂, great vid ✌
good vid..but find it much easier to just line rad agin the wall and place a mark where the bracket edge will be then use a level to draw a straight edge.....next measure floor to valve centre / bottom edge of bracket centre to bottom edge of radiator / add these two measurements and then subtract distance of rad edge to valve centre/ get your calculation and mark position of bracket on wall/ easy peasy lemon squeezy
Thanks Dave.
@@dereton33 love the vids man
Great job more food videos please.
They will be coming.
top marks bro
Thanks ✌
Thank you!!!
No problem Mark.
top marks
Thanks 👍
Some important things wasn't covered. Types of walls and the fixings for them. Plasterboard vs solid wall. If that was on plaster it would eventually fall off with plugs or come loose at least. Or not withstand too much force put on the radiator.
That would have been common sense.
Why does everyone giving plumbing advice use mole wrenches and pliers rather than the correct sized spanner?
Would need to many spanners to carry around.
I thought there would be more water in the radiators
Never as much as you think.
Here in 2022 I know people who are swapping double panel rads for single to reduce costs, ironic.
Thats life!