How to Fix Rotted Wood with Epoxy | This Old House
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- Опубліковано 23 сер 2024
- This Old House general contractor Tom Silva saves a rotting window with a two-part epoxy filler. (See below or a shopping list and tools.)
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Tom showed Kevin how to repair a rotten windowsill and trim using a two-part "architectural" epoxy. The epoxy is designed to be flexible so that it will not separate from the wood as the wood expands and contracts with changes in humidity. Tom first grinded out the soft, decayed wood using a router. Next, he applied a bonding agent to ensure a good bond between the epoxy and the wood. Tom then traced the profile of the window trim onto a plastic putty knife and cut the knife to match the profile. Tom then dispensed the two-part epoxy using a special caulking gun onto the piece of plastic and mixed the two parts together. He then applied the epoxy to the windowsill and trim using his putty knives. Back in the loft, Tom recommended another application of epoxy for "touch up" and a light sanding before applying paint.
Shopping List for How to Fix Rotted Wood with Epoxy:
- two-part epoxy [amzn.to/2wG6uL9], used to rebuild rotted areas
- painter's tape [amzn.to/2MyRA44], for masking off area around the repair
- long, straight board, used as a straightedge [amzn.to/2WuO6V7]. Lexan panel [amzn.to/2QWpvCv], for use as an easel for mixing epoxy
- 100and 120-grit sandpaper [amzn.to/2K1tJbj], used to smooth hardened epoxy
- primer [amzn.to/2MApYf3] and paint [amzn.to/2IuReqd], used to finish the repair
Tools for How to Fix Rotted Wood with Epoxy:
- router [amzn.to/2Ip5Gjn] or cut-out tool fitted with a V-shaped bit [amzn.to/2MB2wyp], used to grind out rotted wood
- paint scraper [amzn.to/2Wsiakc], used for scraping off paint from wood surfaces
-plastic putty knives [amzn.to/2ItxmDw], used to apply epoxy
- aviation snips [amzn.to/2MyId4q], used for cutting profile of wood trim into plastic putty knife
- double-barrel caulking gun [amzn.to/2XzlgPJ], used to dispense two-part epoxy
- one-and-a-half inch paintbrush [amzn.to/2QWUJct]
- 1-inch-wide paintbrush [amzn.to/2Wp7wWm], used to apply bonding agent to wood
- 3-inch paintbrush [amzn.to/2wHO6BD], used to apply primer and paint
Two-part architectural epoxy for repairing rotten wood manufactured by Advanced Repair Technology, Inc. [www.advancedrep...]
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How to Fix Rotted Wood with Epoxy | This Old House
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Automotive body filler (Bondo) available in "Classic" and stranded reinforced formulas for heavy build-up applications works very well at a fraction of the cost of the product that you are demonstrating. I've used it for rotted wood moldings and frames for 40 years, particularly useful for 100 year old Victorian scroll work moldings that are difficult to reproduce today. Applications on my own home that are 20 years old are holding up fine and undetectable today. Bondo is also a two part epoxy that can be drilled, sanded and shaped with common woodworking tools and no special applicator required.
I have been thinking of trying Bondo. Does it require a bonding agent, and if so what’s a good one?
I agree. Body filler is much cheaper and very strong too. Epoxy is not needed.
I've heard that the downside of automotive body filler is that it doesn't expand and contract as much as the epoxy they are using here, so if you use it outside it's more likely to crack and pop off
@@StratKruzer No. I've never used any type of bonding agent for wood repairs with Bondo. Just make sure that all the damp rot is removed and dry the cavity with a heat gun before filling the void.
Chris Graham Thanks! I have some window repairs coming up, so I appreciate your advice.
I have done some woodworks in the past but this woodwork plan ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxZF0EMnrujZvqHhGkxiz559uIABJWR9TG helps me do much in a far lesser time than i used to do i have already built several projects with this plan and i intend to do many more soon. Thank you so much!
I like how Tom cut a special template from the plastic putty knife to have the correct profile of the wood. Very cool!
Cutting that knife for your perfect custom shape is such simple genius!
Love Tom Silva,I have watched him for over 25 years and he always has something new for me to learn ,thanks Tom !
I save the wood "dust" from sanding and use it when mixing epoxy. It stiffens the mix and makes it easier to sand. It works as well as expensive fillers.
Great tip what is the ratio
I like the second way he mentioned. Take out just the rotted part and replace that with a small piece of wood. Saves time, effort and money.
So wonderful to see an expert at work. Not enough worker like Tom Silva.
Tom, after I learned about this product, I have kept a supply in my garage for the next project that pops up. Your window project in this video was a large undertaking and I have never taken on a project this large before. I have used this on window brick mold and other applications on the exterior of my house. Currently using it on my French door threshold. I have found in the cold weather it can take a lot longer to setup. I always get nervous thinking maybe I did not mix it correctly. Recently ART was sold out of the large double tube, which I love to use with the caulking gun. Due to Covid shortages they were having trouble getting stock for the large double tube. I was encouraged to order the smaller project size, which I do not like as much, I found when I went to reuse the smaller tube after a couple months, there was some hardening at the applicator tip area. I recently saw ART had the larger tubes in stock, so I bought one. It is great stuff.
It’s interesting to see that after grinding out the rot you can see the very tips of a finger jointed brick molding. When building my house some 30 years ago I installed 27 windows all of which came with brick molding made out of finger jointed scraps. Over the last 10 years I’ve had to repair or replace almost every one of those brick moldings AND all the rot started in the finger joints. Something I wish I had considered when making the purchase.
Interesting observation...
I agree- same with my windowsills. All the finger joints swell and contract and cause problems that require repairs. Why wouldn’t they make casing/sills out of a single length of PT wood….
I still miss this old house and not to forget norm
Great video! Good explanation of the contractor grade versions of this, but there are super easy homeowner ways to do this too. JB Weld 'Kwikwood' is a putty that you knead the parts together and once mixed you just press it into the void after clearing out the rot. You can easily knead it and shape it for about 20 minutes before hardening. After 1 hour it can be sanded and painted. Nowhere near as messy as this. The end result is surprisingly tough and blends very well with the wood.
Tbh, this rot is so extensive it would have been easier to rout out the remaining wood square-ish and cut a filler piece of wood to fill this large area.
IS there anything that JB Weld products can't fix?
@@surfordie82 Toughest epoxy filler and repairer on the planet.
its like being a house dentist
Except you don't get such a big hole in your pocket
In the larger voids use screws so the expoxy binds to the screws as well making a much better bond.
good idea
I have used that method with concrete repairs, on large repairs tie wire can be wrapped around the screws in a random pattern to make mesh like grid for extra reinforcement.
@@dodge96sport Rodger.. sounds like a fiddle I would sort out in the fly..
Screws will rust out over time making it look like crap many years down the toad
@@BlessednFree only if you don't use untreated screws. Useing screws makes a better conection between the timber & the product since one is inert & the other expands & contracts.
He is Using Flex-tec HV (see at 2:07). At $200+ per twin Bottle kit of Epoxy, I might as well pay for the wood replacement...
+Erick GT yup your right around 200$ holy crap
"Before we apply the epoxy I have to apply a 'bonding agent' to the wood so the epoxy adhere's to the wood." What's the name of the "bonding agent" in case I want to try this. Also, do I need a router or can I just attach the triangular shaped grinding bit to my drill?
You can use a dremel. I have no clue what the bonding agent is. This video isn't that helpful other than to show you how to do it once you guess what materials these bozos are using.
Here is their video, they also make thge bonding agent ... watch?v=EcRoCm9Am0g
Get an EndRot kit, it's like $40 and a lot easier to work with than the stuff they are using.
Been using auto body filler for this for 10 years. I stay at that house today and it showes no signs of failing.
Thanks for info will try.
I have been using bondo for 10 years too and as long as water doesn't get into the wood under the bondo, it will last! I don't know why some complain that it doesn't work but it does work. Others say it's not water proof. But so is wood! That is why we paint over it. Yes, it can crack and separate where it meets the wood, but if you keep an eye out, the problem can be fixed before more damage can be done. Cheap, fast repair and easy to apply. I'll keep using it until my window sills become 100% bondo. :p
great tip about making a tool to match the profile I could have used it yesterday Thanks Tommy
Yep, great tip. I do this kind of work often, I'll be using this little gem.
Show the whole process, beginning to end! I want to see the repair after it's painted.
I am working on a rotted window sill much like the one in this video and I like how Tom made the template to match the profile of the molding. Instead of using an epoxy, which can be pricey, I have decided to use some foam insulation and Bondo.
Except for the fact that the template he made was absolutely useless as he didn't cut it straight and you could see that he ruined the work he had already done as soon as he took one swipe and they switched the scene. When he was scribing with the pencil he let the pencil fall in the dip of the rot and drew a crooked line. He sat there for 30 minutes making it straight with a knife he didnt cut, off camera. I'd bet on it. 🤣🤣
@@matthewmcneil9812 I was thinking it looked like a good idea but your prob right. Bugger trying to cut those plastic scrapers. I’ve seen neat profile tools but tbh my freehand profiling is reasonably neat on my 70 year old timber windows.
This man is a master of his craft.
Keep in mind one of most hazardous things you can do with epoxy is to start sanding it before it's fully cured. So scrape, cut but don't sand until the next day.
I've made some wooden strip kayaks and so I've used a lot of epoxy. The cheapest easiest way I might deal with this rotted wood work is to get a less expensive brand of epoxy, mix it up (as a liquid) then add filler. A filler I've used many times in a pinch was instant pancake mix. Baking flour (that Gold bond stuff that keeps dry for a year? It's not really food anymore) makes a great filler. Mixed in with the epoxy I've never had any bugs or problem. If you mix your epoxy and then add the filler right away you get longer working time. If you let the epoxy sit mixed for 5 minutes, then add the filler, it goes off a lot quicker.
Another good filler material is the dust from a shop vac or dust collection system on your table saw if you have one.
If there is a big cavity that needs to be filled, you can use scrap wood blocks to make the epoxy go further.
Emmm I used people's s lasting
Where the void is larger I cut timber into the area and apply an expanding glue which dose it's stuff and works its always into all the books and crannies making for an seperior bond.
Another use for epoxy. I have two forty year old shovels that are badly weathered and cracked. I smeared epoxy into all the cracks and completely covered the wood. Smooth, shiny and solid.
Tom is so clever. I love watching him work.
West System product is the way to go. I usually put in a new piece of wood but keep coating all endgrain with unthickend epoxy many times until the wood will no longer draw it in like a straw. Then I thicken a batch with chopped cotton 406 and paiste it in. Your turning the crappy wood you can get today into plastic basically. Grind and file to sculpt the patch. Prime and paint. It's labor intensive but a lot cheaper than ripping everything out and flashing it all correctly and replacing. With the wide growth rings in the lumber that's available today carefully epoxy sealing endgrain on for example wood brick molding is an extra step worth taking.
Before I purchased my house the previous owner had a contractor repair a sill using car bondo, this allowed the water into and around the entire window. The entire sill and surrounding wood rotted out and now I have to replace the window, window sill, frame, and flashing. Real wood and a real contractor is my next choice!
I learned from watching this video that we can tackle this ourselves! Thank you!
Outstanding. I buy my epoxy by the half gallon and one of several thickening agents.When dry, its solid like plastic and a little flexible. Great video. I have done the same thing around my home, several times. Process confirmed. Fantastic
Harry Paul Garcia have you found a resonantly priced 1/2 gallon size of epoxy?
I'd like to see how to fix windows made of field built wood frames attached to structural corner posts and go floor to ceiling where the bottom sill details is also baseboard trim detail where there's nothing really on the market to replace such big things and also preserve the look of the original mid century modern 1952 look.
But still I thank you for all the woodworking tips ! Your show helps demystify and builds confidence !
As soon as I get the epoxy mixed, is when it starts raining.
You are in the craftsman club now
YOU GUYS ARE AWESOME tom teaches me so much I want to be a carpenter when I get older too
I hope you are younger than 18.....if not you're going the wrong way.
Bondo makes an all purpose "fill" for about $11 per tub. Might be a bit more difficult but works beautifully and can be painted/sanded.
It doesn't work as good for exterior purposes though. It doesn't expand and contract with the wood nearly as much as this epoxy will, so it could crack and then pop off. May not happen a lot, but it's a very real possiblity.
@@AxcelGamer97 yeah I probably only use it for diy home repairs vs a paid job, but so far so good here. Replaced all the rotted trim of my windows here and it looks pretty darn good from a few feet away.
@@sean9820 I bet it works fine when you're doing it yourself like that. I've usually ended up just going the route of cutting out whatever is rotted and putting wood there simply because it's usually just one section of trim instead of a whole bunch like in this video. I've used Bondo a lot though for interior projects, such as trim, and it's worked great on that front.
@@AxcelGamer97 amen brother! I should note I did cut out and replace the wood as well, used the bondo to blend and fill the two/any gaps. Also had some rot on the bottom of our doors, which I again just filled and sanded. Little areas here and there where it helped in a big way.
I’d use bondo any day considering this epoxy stuff they showed was nearly $100 for the bottle and doesn’t include their “special” gun.
Not sure what he used for bonding agent. Years ago I prepared soft rotted window sill areas with liquid thin penetrating epoxy that wicked in through the wood about 1 inch. It made soft wood fibers into hard plastic fibers never to rot and ready for filling. I bought it from *"The Rot Doctor"*
The problem with this lies in the cost of this epoxy kit.
It cost more than replacing the whole window trimming
You must have a very low value for labor...
I love UA-cam I'm a visual learner this is great!
Awesome! Would of liked to seen it finished thought!
Would have liked
Love the video. My house, is 1880 years old,, lol the kitchen windows show this the most. In the spring of 2021 I will attack these areas better armed with the knowledge I gained today 8 Nov.20.... well done Guys.
Thank you for the video very nice job! I appreciate how you show how to do the template with the spatula. I fixed 3 rotten wood beams and 3 window sills. I took away the wood rot first , then apply a product call Rotten wood restorer by Bondo. It really harden the wood in few minutes. Then i used Wood Bond, sanded it and painted it. Looks great!
I use super glue to harden wood. The liquid type soaks right into the fiber.
Cool so i Rotten Wood Restorer. I really love the product , very easy to apply and dried very hard very quickly
They say Bondo dries hard and doesn't give with the weather so it will crack
I've used the Bondo on exterior repairs and it does crack in some instances. As far as Minwax it's it's basically Bondo. I do like using the wood hardener Minwax makes. I would like to use the epoxy stuff that they use then then make my decision on what is best
Epoxy, great idea! What kind of epoxy and bonding agent [brands?] ? There are many.
I have a large project and need bout a gallon.
Damn good show. I've been watching for many years. Thank you PBS.
So you don’t need to remove the wood and replace the whole sill? I’m in Milwaukee. Do you make house calls? 🙏
Lots of people asked (wondered the same), I think I found it!
Bonding agent: Primatrate for Flex-Tec Epoxy
Epoxy: Flex-Tec Wood Epoxy
OR get the Kit: Flex-Tec Dual Cartridge Starter Kit 101 ($230+ when you factor in sales tax and shipping) forget it!
It's actually much easier to just get a can of auto body Bondo. Works fantastic! And easily sanded and then painted.
We should be done with this small repair in two to three days.... 🤣
"How much is that in dollars, Tommy?"
That's what i was thinking. It seems like an awful lot just to fix two pieces of window trim. Seems to me like it would be much quicker and cheaper to just pull the boards out, cut some more boards to size, and put them in.
I have used Bondo, which is used for auto body repairs. Works well and cheap. Purchased it at Lowe's
Thanks!! I now know what to do for a couple of window sills. 👍
I just bought this stuff and it is perfect for the job I needed to do in our corner window. For that window the number of parts that would have to be removed would be time consuming. With this you dig out all the rotten wood, sand as much as possible, pretreat with the bonding agent and will the void. It dries very fast. Sand and paint. In the future when all of the siding is replaced that would be the time to replace the wood window surrounds, not now.
Thanks for the review. If you don't use the entire tube/tubes is their a way to cap them and save them? Was it somewhat easy to sand and form? Thanks!
@@phild9140 You need to apply it quickly. If you are too slow and work it too much you will get pits or grooves. I used a belt sander to smooth it because it becomes hard as a rock. I had window sills that had rot all the way through the middle. The results are amazing. Do order more that you think because it goes fast. You don't want to run out.
Yes the tubes come with caps so you can close it up. I used the tube style where you mix after you dispense.
@@toycarcollector thank you for the reply. I was hoping I could sand it by hand. Still might purchase it though.Thanks again.
I use Durham's "Rock-Hard" Water Putty. It only lasts around 10 years - longer if you prep the surfaces properly and paint it well, but it costs under $10.
Does it flex though?
@@cooperwelder75 no
This looks fine, except for the skim coat applied on the face of the sill. Epoxy does not allow liquid water or water vapor to pass through itself. When you apply a skim coat over the face of the sill, moisture can be trapped inside the wood, leading to accelerated rot and the skim coat separating from the sill. 5 yrs seems to be the lifespan of this kind of repair in the humid philadelphia area.
How do you explain the same does not happen when you paint the wood?
Gleison Storto Simple. Paint is vapor permeable.
I’ve seen this too in marine industry. People coat varnish or epoxy on both sides of wood. A small scratch allows water in and lack of ventilation and oxygen causes ramped rotting
What bonding agent do you apply before you apply the epoxy ?
I started using a lot of epoxy and polyester resin with and without fiberglass strands, or microbeads or colloidal silica on my house after buying a boat!
Looks like a great idea, as long as someone else pays for it.
Slick Trick with the putty knife making template
I took note of negative contractor comments about the cost of the materials Tom Silva selected for this job? I am an amateur in this area but my immediate reaction was I wonder if this material is easier to work with and to form? I am restoring some 106 year old screened porch framing wood that has wood rot from a water leak. I chose PC Rot Terminator and their PC Woody product. These are good products but much harder to spread and fill holes than what I see in Tom's video. The worst part of the job is the preparation but that is closely followed by the application of the epoxy repair product difficulties if it wants to stick to everything it touches.
So, if I have to do this again I will very strongly consider Tom's choice of product and will likely be glad to pay the extra cost. None of us attempting these kinds of repairs on old houses want to have to go back and do one of these tedious repairs, which are primarily manual labor, over again.
There is a 4th way! I used some cheap all-purpose filler from Wilco (UK). It's cement based and not the usual plaster one.
Tommy Silva is the man!
Smart using that rubber mat on the front porch.
Question: If the rotted part is touching something prone to moisture, such as a concrete slab, will repairing the wood with epoxy prevent rotting in the future? Or will the moisture transverse up into the wood above it?
Wood should never be close to concrete without a vapor barrier in between
My new project for rotten pation door. Thanks
You can use Bondo and it works really well and a lot cheaper than epoxy and it's paintable as well
That was slick well done with the putty knife making your temple
Love the trick with the knife
The wood to replace is cheaper but requires more labor and time than the epoxy. The epoxy makes the job waterproof and chances are good will not need repaired again. Some sanding, some primer and paint and it's a permanent repair.
This is exactly what I needed to know. I have a Catalina Macaw which has chewed up several interior doors and other parts of my house. Is that a special 2-part epoxy made especially for wood?
I watched this while waiting for the dentist ......
I wonder if epoxy gives any structural strength? I have a table with rotten legs. I wonder if this is strong enough to support the table (around 15kg weight) or I'd better replace the legs.
System 3 Rot fix kit is a much easier way to go and a lot less expensive.
One thought on the Bondo use, i thought it absorbed water, that is why we need to use tiger hair when filing in a rust hole and not go straight to bondo. Bondo is so easy to use and sands so nice, i can see how convenient it would be in this application.
I know people who have used bondo for fiberglass repairs on their boats who report that water absorption has never been a problem. But wood absorbs water too, so I am not sure why that would be a problem when repairing damaged wood.
What is the bonding agent?
bondo cheaper and sets up faster. also you need to add something to the large holes for the epoxy to grip or it will eventually fall back out. nails or screws into the good wood will work great.
I've repaired casement and sliding sash windows for years, transplant new timber instead of these chemical fillers. Talk about "going against the grain " reinstatement of timber is best practice.
What would you use for an old wooden column - the base got wet because of a faulty eave spout / gutter and now a section of the round base is rotted approx, 3 x 3". Need an epoxy or something to fill it; or replace the 8' column which is thousands of $
I use Bondo, a gallon is like $16.00. Works Great for wood and i still have a lot left for Auto. Repairs.
I've used Bondo, and Bondo wood filler. They both work fine. Minwax High Performance Wood Filler is another great product. I used it to update an old door when I removed the mortise lock and updated to a modern type lockset. Got hard as a rock and I was able to drill out for the bolt.
This is very cool! I have a couple of rotten window sills on my house and this technique should do the trick.
I've tried this myself using JB Weld Wood Epoxy. It works but it's pretty difficult to make it look as good as new. If you only have a tiny amount of rot this might be the easiest and cheapest method, but next time I run into this situation I will probably just replace the wood.
I like what I see, but I need to get it in writing. I had a head injury in 1986 on a motorcyle and it is hard for me to remember. Thank you.
Thanks for sharing this great strategy
Thanks for this invaluable information
We use that on wooden boats that used to call it get right but basically it's just a poxy injected into the wood and it makes it as good as new even stronger I believe
This wasn't even a customers house, they just saw this house was rotting and they just fixed it
They did not fix it, go look its rotted out again by now.
The Epoxy will NEVER rot. I would say cost its worth the permanent fix. Also, there are probably other areas that could use the same repair
@@angelleigh9468 the wood around there patches is likely rotted out now
I can understand fixing a small hole in a window sill with the epoxy but why bother with brick mold when you can buy the PVC plastic brick mold for about $10 for 8 feet prepainted nail it up fell on the nail holes touch them up with paint last longer than the rest of the house
Never heard of "prepainted pvc."
People rarely show the staining or painting of these fillers, especially the homemade ones.
Where do you find the wood to epoxy bonding agent?
I have to admit from the way I have seen wood rot travel.I would pull the boards if possible and replace them.That way you can see if it traveled on any of the other contact pieces.Wood rot is no joke.
Is that a bonding agent or a wood hardener? I would always apply a preservative wood hardener after getting rid of as much of the rotten stuff as possible. It needs to soak in as far as possible to kill off the rot spores and make a solid surface to bond too. Also, I just use cheap, generic epoxy fillers. They will last longer than the wood anyway.
Yeah they just skipped over the mysterious "bonding agent" like they were afraid of it. I need to know.
I sometimes drill small holes into the existing old wood (maybe 1/2") and pour the wood hardener directly into the holes so that the liquid hardener distributes itself deeply throughout the wood. Sometimes use a hypodermic needle, without the needle, to direct the hardener to specific spots. You can get them at your local drug store for a few pennies or sometimes for free.
@@g.e.boroush5176 That's an excellent idea.
Pair of shysters. Remove the shutters and cut out the rotten timber profile with a fine tooth saw. Replace with new redwood profile glued and screwed into place.
Make sure to always paint your epoxy to prevent UV damage
As a handy man I use Durham's Rock Hard water putty. Home Dumpo has it and is a crap-ton cheaper too. In the paint isle.
I have a wood Pilar supposed by a concrete base.
Is it possible to use this kind of solution?
Thank you that was very good info. It will come in handy this spring, as I fix a. Few spots i noticed this winter.
Isnt the epoxy really bad for wood as it stops it breathing and traps water in? Like it accelerates rot
it calls ART ( Advanced repair technology ) . you can go to any Benjamin Moore paint store and buy it for $70 . it works great specially on old wood, the only thing is that you must use latex primer .
I can see repairing the sill as I've done many over the years but I wouldn't waste my time repairing the brick moulding as it's a lot cheaper to buy it pre-primed and takes just minutes to remove and replace.
...or get the PVC stuff that never needs painting.
What bonding agent did he use?
I hope Kevin sends Bob Villa a Sears gift card every Christmas.
I've used short strand fiberglass .
Can I use Bondo for this kind of repair also?
What about killing the fungus? Isn't that a must before covering over the affected area?
Car body filler will work well and is much cheaper. Remove ALL rotten wood, where possible rebuild with new wood anti corrosion mesh and anti-corrosion screws, treat with wood preserver, prime with wood primer, fill with car filler, sand, prime again and finish paint.....Done right it will look as good as new and last for years.
+Iazzaboyce You are correct. Car body filler works great. I've used "Bondo" on exterior and interior wood repairs. It will outlast the wood.
Polyester Resin (Fiberglass Resin) mixed with saw dust.. Last for ever..
ThomasTheSailor Chubby what purpose does the sawdust serve? I've worked with this material before and never saw a need to add sawdust...
Capps, It makes it much Thicker and doesn't sag on a vertical surface either.. You never need multiple coats,, Of course, You don't need it but, it makes a stiff filler.. If you need a stiff filler..
ThomasTheSailor Chubby "stiff filler". That's what she said... Lol
I'm reminded of a opening that was cut thru a concrete floor to put in a stairway, we made the steel to reinforce the opening and the design called for holes to fill in with epoxy between the steel and concrete. We priced out the epoxy and realized it was going to cost maybe over a thousand dollars. Luckily we realized our contract was just for steel and said nothing about epoxy, had it been $50-100 we would have just done it whether it was our responsibility of not.............One more interesting thing about that job was it was the top of a 40 floor apartment building and the Desk Man looked and sounded just like Henry Kissinger.
Oh wow i could do this on a piece of wood for my bed. Bingo!!! Now my next question is will I be able to drill into once dried to put bolts in it.