I don't think that maxemet makes a bad knife. I think just the majority of users make bad maxemet users. It takes judicious use to enjoy the merits of that steel.
no, sir. you can't enjoy the long life of the steel if on every cut you're trying not to chip. that long life will only translate into a long agony until the inevitable.
@@CSLFiero I've been using my maxamet for a year now. Once you figure out sharpen in it it's awesome. I cut tons of stuff with it and never was afraid of chipping
Have had a much different experience with my maxamet so far. I really like this steel. I've had my Maxamet Manix2 LW from the first month they were available. Have not had any issues with it. It'll cut zip-ties and cardboard with no problem. Resharpened it because I simply wanted to. I set it to 15 per side and no microbevel. Also didn't take the edge past a 500 grit shapston stone. Haven't had any issues with chipping or other issues. I tend to press down hard on my stones while sharpening. I can take a video of cutting cardboard, wood or zip-ties if anyone doesn't believe me. I believe Cliff and you with no quesiton that the knives you've had were not up to par, but mine has been great. This video is actually the first I've seen of people complaining - though I don't browse the forums as much as I used to. I really think they screwed up the heat treat on some of the runs, like what you hear about ZT's early attempts with Elmax. Hasn't this happened before with Spyderco and one of their(at the time) new steels not many people were using?
I had one that cut a ridiculous amount of rope under a 20dps microconvex, and seemed to do okay. But really, this Bugatti Veyron of steels is about as practical for the average knife user as the said Veyron is for the average motorist. A good data point but MUCH safer to retreat down the heirachy to things we know better, like ZDP189
Cedric & Ada Gear and Outdoors Excellent analogy. I’m not sure Spyderco gets the “tune” as right on Maxamet as often as Bugatti does on the Veyron, however. Most of the ones I’ve handled were most certainly not optimally heat treated. Apparently that has been a bit of an issue.
Over 800 cuts with the same model knife......incredible my friend.. your vids have changed my mind on maxamet, also the local knife store owner here in town is an expert in metallurgy, and he's been ranting and raving about how incredible it is for a few months now. Endgame super steel. The only negative is that does rust if you edc it in humid conditions.
It is HSS Cobalt tool steel. It is good but nobody cares to design sharpeners for these type of materials. I get jugged edge when I try to sharpen a ceramic blade, too. Probably a strop stick with a diamond compound would be the easiest way to touch up the edge before it gets too dull.
i know im asking the wrong place but does any of you know of a tool to get back into an instagram account?? I stupidly forgot the password. I appreciate any tricks you can give me!
I wonder if Spyderco changed the HT on the folders compared to the Mule Team Maxamet. I've really had a fantastic run with my MT. I just run a 400 grit 15dps edge with a 20fps brown sharpmaker rod micro bevel. I chipped it once on a big staple but it's been a really great steel. No issue's with tune edge tearing out like I'm reading/seeing in the Manix 2 & Native 5 LW knives.
I’ve been using mine for years doing normal knife things like carving wood, and haven’t had any chipping problems. It takes a while to sharpen, but the edge retention is unreal. There’s no need to baby this steel. I love the stuff.
I sharpened my Native 5 Maxamet on the Edge Pro Apex with Edge Pro Diamond Matrix stones from 80 to 4000 Grit and stropped with 2 micron 1 micron 0.5 micron and 0.1 micron Jende Diamond Emulsion on Balsa wood (also on Edge Pro Apex) and 16 degrees per side without micro bevel and absolutely no issues, no chipping, nothing. I got a hair whittling sharp mirror polished edge without any problems.
I just now ran across this video, and you describe exactly the problems I have had with my older Manix. I indeed solved the issue by sharpening at 20 degrees. I have treated this particular knife gently since, (read hardly use it), with no problems so far. I just got a Sage 1 in Maxamet and forgot about my lessons learned on the old Manix, and put a polished 17 degree edge on it. The first time I cut some phone book paper with it a chip magically appeared. :( I agree it's a poor general use steel, but I have cut miles of cardboard with it and it never dulled, just chips, so there is that. Next time I am going to use 25 degree per side micro bevels! Great video, thanks!
Well apostle P, thanks for saving my mantix 2 from the junk drawer I know how to sharpen and I had gotten so frustrated with this steel that I put it away Went back after the video and started with 600 grit and a standard V grind 21 degree primary bevel with no micro bevel Took awhile but I worked from there down to a .05 micron strop and it’s sharp enough to do what i bought it for... cut cardboard. Still won’t take a fine edge as well as my s30v, M390, 20cv, or even s110v But it’s good enough I didn’t have chipping like you did but it was like after 100 grit my burr just fell off and left a jagged edge I couldn’t clean up Was actually able to apex with the 600 and chase the burr after that until deburring on 1500 grit diamond Thanks again I think you are right on about this steel Wish I wouldn’t have bought it but it better cut a lot of cardboard for me now
They must of fixed the heat treat as of 2020. Ive sharpened my para 3 keeping the factory angles with eze lap diamond fine and dmt ultra fine finish with spyderco ceramic. No problems to report as of yet.
Every thing you went thru to sharpening i also experienced the same issues and had to sharpen as you did. Maxamet makes a great lathe bit but for knives i feel it not worth the cost or troubles.
I use both Spyderco maxamet and custom ones by McCullen knives and I use them for everything and have not had anywhere near that kind of trouble with them. I mostly sharpen them with my 2X72" belt grinder up to a worn out 2000 grit belt, I convex them as I do almost all my knives, when I don't feel like going down to the shop I use a 600 grit Norton fine stone to touch them up and finish on a worn out 2000 grit strop I made from an old sanding belt.. I have had the PM2 and Native since they came out and carry the PM2 daily I have had a McCullen knives straight knife even longer than that with good results. In adding a microbevel I would think you are coming closer to a convex edge and I can see where it should help you.
I had some huge/ similar issues with h1. I was only able to not rip the apex off by doing ONLY strokes away from the edge. If i went towards the edge, no matter how light the pressure, i'd just rip the edge right off. :( Have you experienced this with H1 rob??
Maxamet has been very good in my experience based on recent releases since 2018. I’ve got a manix, PM2 PM 3 and have had none of the sharpening problems described. This is based on venev bonded diamond stone sharpening, and diamond stropping. I have had use chipping but each time has been a steel to rock or steel to steel misuse issue. Edge retention is otherwise excellent, I recommend the steel especially if you have a diamond based sharpening system.
MovieGuy666 why are you so upset that people are actually truly enjoy a knife they have purchased. I have had no issues whatsoever in the six months I’ve used my manix 2. Sharpening on my cemented diamond system is no more difficult than most other high end steels. I think the issue may, in fact, be your skill level.
Yes I’m replying to myself, thinking that a 3year follow up was worthwhile. My manix served as my everyday carry for two of the last three years. My experience with the steel has been great. Chipping only with steel to steel or concrete impact. I’m far more concerned with the lock on the manix as when wet the purchase on the ball cage is dodgy. The LW construction bars replacing the cage easily. The spring never weakened on my maxamet manix.
I agree with your statement and I don’t use the venev stones (yet). However I did just pick up the KO3 pro hunter with a set of the tsprof Diamond stones and they work beautifully. I had a hair shaving edge in 15-20 minutes Tops. I have heard so many in the knife community maxamet this maxamet that. Use the right tool for the job the right tool for maxamet is a decent set of Diamond stones and a little technique. Although I would not recommend a super low grit like 120. Rant over, stay sharp my friends!!!!
I recently got a PM2 with MAXAMET. Came at 17-18 dps. And i had no issues with the factory edge. It held up quite nicely to lateral tensions. First sharpening I dropped the edge angle to 16 dps. Had absolutely no issues sharpening it and getting a nice "crisp" edge. Listening to you talk about how you worked the secondary wit minimal pressure...maybe that was it! For months now I am sharpening using very little pressure. It started as a test to see if I could sharpen a knife and create a burr so minimal that there was no felt difference in use whether you deburred the edge or not, and i just noticed that the edges i got were more to my liking. I have heard a lot of people complain about maxamet. So far I can't relate but i did enjoy you video...as usual.
This is interesting. Given the high edge retention I would expect it to be very brittle and I treat it that way. I haven't had trouble sharpening mine. I never let it get very dull and I use a 500 diamond with light strokes followed by 1200 (on an Edge Pro). Dumb luck on my part choosing these stones. And yeah, relative to steels like ZDP or M390, maybe more trouble than it's worth. Cliff Stamp's comment about the grain of the steel is also interesting.
I have the exact same knife and had to sharpen it up as well. I used my Edge Pro Apex and did achieve a mirrored hair splitting edge but it was not easy. Nor was it fast. A steel like this required my diamonds ,diamond strops and time. I definitely wouldn't say the average Joe would want to sharpen up a knife like this by hand. I see much frustration in their future. It's great but steels like XHP with a great heat treat achieve an equivalent edge much easier. Resist rust better, and hold it for a highly respectable time as well for a fraction of the cost. God Bless. Just my 2 cents. Thanks for the content bud.
I know this video is very old but wanted to share my experience with maxamet. Now mine is from early 2021 and may been treated much differently than 4 years ago. I've heard many horror stories but also heard many people having great success with sharpening. I reprofiled with 300 grit dmt and refined with 600 grit dmt them 3 micron gunny juice on basswood at 18°. That's it, no problems, no chipping and used 3 edges so far repeating this process with same great results. Did spyderco get better at ht maxamet or am I just that good, probably a bit of both. Hope this helps
Eh... I value toughness in a knife steel as much as edge retention, and to some extent corrosion resistance and value of the steel. I really do feel spoiled using something like CTS-XHP.
That's strange, I get excellent quick results with maxamet with bonded diamond stones on my edge pro. I did 25° inclusive aswell, and I have no chipping.
I had problems with a manix 2 is s110v. I sharpened it on my kme 4 times with no success. With a brand new 50 grit beast too! Could not get my burr to grow no matter what I did. Could get it working sharp but not that hair popping sharp. I came to the conclusion that it was a bad heat treat. Sooo hard. I traded it in for a manix 2 in s30v. I then finally decided to try out s110v again praying it was just that one knife and got a native 5 in s110v and had it super sharp first attempt. Felt good! I've been wanting a maxamet knife but I'm on the fence because I don't want to fail sharpening it and waste my time and then have a knife I just can't get sharp. Not a good feeling. Cool videos I love your work. Your mirror polishes are insane. I go up to 5k cholera stones and then have my kme strops down to .1 micron and I still see small scratch pattern in direct sunlight. Is that just how it is? Or should I get the 10k chosera maybe...
The camera is a bit of a fooler. There are fine scratches in mine too. I don't think they're the result of the last stone we used, but left over scratches we didn't see from lower grit stones. These large/high carbide super steels tend to give us these fits. That's why I micro bevel most of them, just to be sure the apex is really the result of the finest grit I use without residual scratches. Also, don't be too concerned with burr formation on steels like this. They're usually too hard to produce much of a burr. Let your eyes and fingers be your guide. Hope that helps.
This is why I watch your vids, Rob. I just don't need to pay extra for a knife and have to worry about a delicate steel. I dont need the headaches. I sharpen my own knives but I'm only a novice. I enjoy trying out some of the super steels but this may just be beyond my needs.
Very interesting. I love the problem solving with this odd-ball stuff. What do you think about convex sharpening? You had that cool sandpaper strop holder awhile ago, seems like a great reason to bust that out. I've seen videos of guys having good results sharpening ceramic kitchen knives using the wet/dry sandpaper over a neoprene mousepad method.
I literally just sharpened my PM2 in maxamet. I definitely did not have this issue. I also didn’t find it any more difficult to sharpen than s30v. Maybe they’ve changed the heat treat on their maxamet since this video?
I own and use the Manix version of this knife. I found it very difficult to sharpen with alumina stones. When I switched to diamond plates for re-profiling and ceramics to finish the process became much easier. Maybe I got lucky with my example but I haven't experienced large chipping when sharpening. I sharpen to 30 inclusive without a micro-bevel. I don't think I will buy another model with this steel however as 5/6 knives you sharpened having these problems doesn't instill confidence.
ReloaderSPR Sounds like you got a good one. It’s interesting I think hat the knives I’ve worked on haven’t given me much trouble removing material, even with alumina stones, but they just haven’t been stable. After reading the comments, it seems guys are having either very good or very bad experiences with this Steel. It would seem that the heat treat process is not in control.
How do you explain the edge retention? Are many blades created from powder? I don’t know if many are. I do know that you can’t really judge it completely based on the material when it comes to something new. You have to go from experience if use. Your experience using it was very welcoming. Maybe though there needs to be a different way to sharpen as it is a different material.? Idk, I do like that there at least is something being tried. My experience is being a plumber welder and now a chemical engineer. I’d like to take a microscope or even an ET microscope to the edge after sharpened.
I use KME, and take it to 600 grit max, (diamond stone), seems sharp to me, not that hard to get the edge, but it does stain fairly easy on tomatoes or other fresh fruit? And I do have a chip at the front 1/4". But sure stays sharp a long time. I also strop weekly no matter the use.
I have sharpened a bunch of maxamet, I have never had this happen. I have had mild chipping on some of the Older maxamet when on low grit diamond stones but cleans right up once your over F240 grit. I have taken maxamet edges down to 15dps no problem, they prefer 16 to 16.5dps.
On the worst of the knives, the apex came off at 23 degrees, 600 grit Edgepro stone, light presure, in the belly of a Native 5. On subsequent knives, some Native 5's and some Manix 2's, if I saw the apex break off at 20 degress, I just went to the convex method. This was the firs knife I tried this method on.
I've also heard great reports on the Mules in Maxamet, from credible sources. But in these folders, I'm 1 for 6, and the 1 you see here I was very gentle with.
I have not seen that and have been using Maxamet in custom knives long before Spyderco has used it, plus other similar steels like 121REX, CPM-15V (not 10V). There are many possible explanations for it, such as the blanks of the knives were cut with the wrong grain orientation. The first thing I would check is the steel cross-rolled, and what method is used to blank the steel. If the sheets have a distinct grain bias, and you blank parallel to it, well you would expect the exact behavior he has noted. If Spyderco (or whoever) doesn't have a method in place to prevent this, then you would just see it happen at random from batch to batch. But it could also just be a sharpening issue (stones/technique), though the fact that the apex comes off in strips is problematic to explain without an underlying steel problem. Random chipping is easy to explain by any number of factors.
I have noted used the EdgePro stones in a long time (more than a decade), but for very high carbide steels, I have found that you need really soft bond stones, the Naniwa Superstone series is a decent one, or even traditional Kings. Sintered stones, or any stone with a ceramic binder (hard bond), is likely to cause fracturing in grinding at a level way above the grit level. Plus you really have to avoid at all costs any movement parallel to the cutting edge, or at least minimize it because that just leaves a fault line. In any case, I hope you report this to Sal he is decent at trying to resolve problems and Maxamet should not have this behavior.
I've replicated this in a fixed angle system on a manix 2 lw... but I can't agree with your conclusions.. it doesn't do well with lateral load but it's still steel, don't be afraid. 8f you have trouble, just minimise burr and lower pressure.
Used the manix 2 LW MAXAMET for 2 weeks offshore. Managed to put 2 chips in the cutting edge and lost maybe 1/64” of the tip. It didn’t seem to me to hold an edge any better than S30V. Easily got the chips out with diamond hones. Haven’t changed the bevel angle, but will next time. 2 weeks later: Increased the angle on #600 diamond stone, stropped with 1 micron diamond. Performed much better,
MAXAMET is actually pretty easy to sharpen, I didn't have any issues under 20 DPS at all dealing with it. I tested it at both 15 DPS and 18 DPS. It's easier than I thought it might be given the alloy content. I use Silicon Carbide stones to sharpen with however.
No issues here sharpening maxamet and I don’t consider my self an expert by any means. But dang you hear the majority of the knife community just regurgitating the same garbage. My experience with sharpening maxamet 15-20 minutes max with a decent set of Diamond stones you have a hair shaving edge. Although I would not recommend a super low grit like 250 or lower. Stay sharp my friend!!!
@@andrewjewell8209 The majority of the so called knife community are literal children or just man children. Not sure which is worse, the actually little boys or the grown as men with minds of little boys. The reason EDC bros are so obsessed over steel in the first place is... marketing, and ignorance. Classic combo. But whats more the reason they are so hyper focused on the one aspect of blade steels that probably matters the least, which is abrasion resistance, which they just blindly call "edge retention durrr" is because none of them actually know how to use or maintain a knife. They've never actually sharpened any knife. They think like children. Its like "my car CAN BEAT your car" "this beats that car" all that bs child like little boy brain bs. They're looking for magic. Magic steel that won't need maintenance, because they don't know how and they're too lazy and scared to bother learning. I've seen it carry over into abrasives too. They don't even know how to sharpen and they want to fanatically post about industrial/commercial grade specialty stones that aren't even available to the general pubic, because they think it's magic. They don't realize like you said, a $30 silicon carbide whetstone will work just fine. Even alumina stones work in low enough grits. They think it's magic. I need one of those magic "super" vitrified bonded diamond stones. Magic stones, which I don't know how to use, for my magic steel, which isn't supposed to get dull in the first place. None of it makes any actual sense. It's quite annoying though.
Ceramic that looks like steel is a decent analysis, it is one of the class of intermediate compounds meant to bridge the gap between HSS and carbide tooling.
Very detailed review on this steel. Thank you Rob. I don't see myself ever owning a Maxamet knife after watching this. Even ZDP is more stable than this stuff.
Knives coming out of Golden CO / Spyderco are not sharpened by hand. If you watch their tour of the plant on youtube you can see that a robot sharpens the knives. That has to take some of the variable OUT of the process. Just a FYI. It would have been great for you to include a clip of the video of you experiencing the issue with the steel while on a stone. Thanks
Thank you for the enlightening video. I already have my problems sharpening ZDP-189. I prefer easier steels for EDC as VG-10, etc. I just got a Para 3 LW with CTS BD1N, I'll see how it goes. No problems with my old knives in ATS-34, or with the Sebenzas in S30 and S35VN. Excellent the 154CM on my old green BM 840 Osborne, no need to upgrade to more exotic steel.
God I hope this was just a bad heat treatment in an earlier run of these knives. I just ordered the Manix 2 in CPM-S110V and Maxamet. One may get returned though.
I haven’t experienced any of the brittleness he speaks of. I have owned my manix 2 maxamet for over a year and it is still amazing and sharp. I HAVE cut zip ties with no problem. I love maxamet so much i just bought a pm2 in maxamet. He is upset because he had to take a LOT of time to sharpen that knife.
Just discovered something that I thaught might be relevant to this topic. Sharpening a disposable boxcutter blade to perfection is much harder than sharpening Maxamet. So if you able to sharpen a box cutter blade to your liking then you will be more than capable of handling Maxamet. I had to go through a couple of techniques to try and get the micro chips out of the boxcutter blade. Here is what I ended up with: Using Lansky fixed angled sharpening system on box cutter blade Apex 200grit Run blade over 600grit stone 90° to get chipping from the 200grit stone out re-apex with 600 grit run 2000grit sandpaper over edge to get those chips out Re-apex 1200grit then run 1200grit stone over edge length wise to create horizontal scratch pattern and mimic higher grit. Then strop This produced hair whittling edge with no chips on box cutter blade. It is a real mission but its fun to try on box cutter blade. The type used: tinyurl.com/yxjcqoov
With time, makers and users will adapt to Maxamet. I love S90V and haven't even tried S110v yet, and I won't be an early adopter of Maxamet, but will be watching.
Just tried to sharpen my Maxamet Manix 2 LW 15 dps and 1/2 inch wire piece of my apex fell off and a ton of chips. I figured I was using the KME BEAST, so my fault…. Went to 140 grit and could tell if the burr was really a ragged burr or the apex was being chippy. Hour and hours went by then went to microbevel at 17 dps. Finally sharp for 90 percent of the apex except the heel part isn’t that great. I suppose I should have started at 300 grit or 600 grit even? I would describe my experience as very painful! Much harder to keep from chipping than s110v
More people need to know about this and see this video... I'm not sure if youre open to it, but maybe make a short 3 minute video with the basics of why to stay away from maxamet and spread it everywhere... Maybe tell them if they want to know more watch this video and leave a link. Just an idea because there's a large consensus out there that maxamet is the best steel on earth and everyone seems to love it and want it. Awesome video as always... Seriously impressive that you were able to obtain that edge on maxamet. I believe that you're the first I've seen to do it.
EDC with Aaron there have been a bunch of people here on UA-cam that have gotten some great edges from maximet along with great results from testing it, I don’t agree with banning the steel. I noticed a guy up in the comments saying he didn’t have issues with his wicked edge which uses diamonds. Maybe that had something to do with the ripping out of the edge when using other abrasives but I’m not sure.
i use my maxamet mule as an edc. It is easy to sharpen with my double sided dmt stones, red=600, green=1200 and i finish with the spyderco ultra fine ceramic bench stone 306uf. i have had no chipping ,none of the alarmist banter that this "apostle" speaks of. so take your maxamet knife out and use it ,let the performance of the blade speak for itself.
My first Maxamet knife was a Para 3. The knife chipped a lot and was sent back to Spyderco. Spyderco sent the knife back to me claiming that the "Heat treat and HRC" were good, thank you for playing... I proceeded to sharpen out the chips and eventually the edge stopped chipping. Most casual knife owners would have been out of luck. I sharpen a lot and was able to fix the knife. I look at the Maxamet steel much like a new baseball glove. It takes time to break it in. I would love to get an update regarding your opinion of the steel. Thank you for the video! : )
After a few years and several more Maxamet knives sharpened, I would agree with your baseball glove analogy. To continue the comparison… when I was a kid most of the gloves we could afford behaved as you described. But if you could manage to spend twice the price of most good quality gloves, you could buy a Wilson A2000 or Rawlings Wing Tip. Those gloves were made so well, from the best hides prepared the right way, that they felt broken in right out of the box. It’s like the difference between a $200 pair of cowboy boots and a $1,200 pair today. To bring it full circle, if I’m paying ultra premium prices for knives made of a particular steel, I don’t think I should have to “break it in” by sharpening away a significant amount of it for it to perform optimally. Also, for most users/sharpeners, we all have a sweet spot on the spectrum of wear resistance, toughness and sharpenability that we look for in a knife steel. It’s kind of like the “crazy hot spectrum” for women. In that context Maxamet is like a stunningly gorgeous woman who loves sex, with multiple personality disorder, who doesn’t take her meds, but drinks excessively and has a penchant for violence when she doesn’t get her way. Definitely not wife material. And Maxamet will never be the steel for me.
@@TheApostleP Ok, so a little more of the story. Knife 1 - Chippy till the factory edge was long gone Knife 2 - Para 3 Used, sharpened and Zero problems Knife 3 - Para 3 second owner, Brand New factory edge I'm sending all 3 to Gerald at Outpost76 for cut testing. The first 2 knives are sticky sharp with the factory angle. The third Para 3 is a wild card with the factory edge. I sharpen 50-125 knives every year. Playing with super steel is a hobby for me. Thanks for the years and years of outstanding UA-cam videos! Much appreciated. : )
@@barkingspider2007 I've seen UA-cam videos that said Spyderco Maxamet was horrible in early years, but they improved the HT and now it is so much better. Do you agree with this?
@@JustStartingOut-nt8ve Out of 5 Spyderco knives 1 had a chipping problem. 3 have yet to be sharpened. I will know after I get the use them 2 are out on loan for HRC and cut testing wot Outpost 76.
@@JustStartingOut-nt8ve I have 5 Spyderco knives in Maxamet. 1 was very chippy right from the factory. 2 of the knives are out on loan to Outpost76 for HRC and cut testing (Para3) I have a brand new in box PM 2 and a brand new in box Para3. Sadly I can't say if they have improved the heat treatment at Spyderco. The point of buying so many knives in Maxamet was to see if the one poor example of the knife was a one-off. At the moment K390, REX45 and CPM4v are what I carry. In the stainless department, Magnacut is getting some pocket time. I tend to carry a knife for many weeks before stating any opinion. How they sharpen up is also a big factor. Magnacut is a great "Stainless" steel. I prefer the high carbon super steel over stainless. For the money, K390 is hard to beat.
Honestly most users really only need s30v or s35vn if you need wear resistance S110V, S90V, and M390 are all options that are just fine. I agree with you on your statement about not using the knife. Most people buy steels just to “have” them but don’t actually use them to their full potential. Does anyone that is actually into knives ever really let their knife get dull enough to worry about actually sharpening and not just maintaining the edge?
Nutun had one of those rustproof knives on his boat ! It rusted just like stainless rusts ! They test it under salt water when its the oxygen that oxidizes the steel ? The salt air is what takes the biggest toll ! Blade hq buried one in the salt lake for a week didn't rust ? Put some carbon steel with it ? And wet it and dry it in the salt air !
If you are trusting a video this old to avoid buying maxamet, you are missing out on the best steel I’ve sharpened and used. I’ve had no issues that the author has. I have found that there must have been an issue in early batches of this steel. It’s that or some serious flaw in his sharpening technique. I love it so much I have three knives in it. I most certainly would not have done that to “justify my spending so much money on a knife”. Try to do some digging on recent reviews of this steel. You will find that this author’s experience is most certainly in a tiny minority of those reviews.
I know this is old... but that comment about cliff stamp talking about really obtuse angles. I have not been able to find anything about him saying that. He was the one that suggested this steel to spyderco. I know that because he told me personally. I know they kind of fixed the heat treatment of maxamet so I was wondering if your opinion has changed? I don’t own any maxamet but I’ve had s110v chip in a similar way. Love your videos man. Been a watcher since the very beginning. I think it was an American lawman or a recon 1 reveiw. Thanks for everything you have done.
I can't be much help on the edge toughness under use, Dale. I don't own one and haven't carried one. The horror of sharpening the stuff ended my interest. That said, there are guys who love the stuff. Perhaps I got a couple examples of a heat treat gone bad.
I really want this knife, and had this same knife in my cart, bit after watching this video I was wondering which blade steel you would recommend for this knife ?
I love the stonewashed finish on these. I wish they offered it on a few over steels, cpm 4v definitely being one. Have the 4v manix 2 and the "satin" finish is pretty rough, seems like that happens on the harder high carbide steels. As a user I much prefer stonewashed finish over satin. It hides wear better and on carbon steels it helps prevent patina better.
Don't fall in love with that stonewashed look on maxamet spyderco's. It patinas and changes VERY easily. To the point that if you get almost ANY kind of liquid (besides water and alcohol) on it, you will see spots. I had steak juice leave a spot in my maxamet PM3 and it was only on the knife long enough for me to eat dinner while camping. I haven't done much with the blade for me to speak about the brittle/fragile nature of the cutting edge (like this guy did in the video), but the stonewash is anything but good. That much I CAN confirm.
Yes, I have that grey frn Manix 2 and I am not fan of Maxamet, I prefer much more my CPM S110V, K390 or even older ZDP-189 blades. I have a Lansky and a Gatco sharpening systems both with diamond rods and I don't have any problem with those hard steels even reprofiling them but I can't get the Maxamet as sharp as the others no matter the time I pass sharpening or stropping it and I find it more prone to chipping than the rest. I wouldn't buy it again but confess I haven't tried it with a coarse edge so maybe I am partially guilty for the results.
I have a factory 2nd maxamet para 2 .. i have also s110v native 5 and s30v manix.. the pm2 because of the steel im using 17 degree per side and its the most amazing knife and unbelievable steel ive ever seen ..
Just an update… I’ve seen much better and more consistent sharpenability and performance over the last couple of years from Spyderco’s Maxamet. But the early stuff was very hit and miss, and when it missed, it missed ugly.
Yikes, no thanks. I'll take toughness over wear resistance any day, that's why I love 3V so much. How much extra are you having to charge for the extra time/effort in the sharpening process?
Funny thing: I found Maxamet to be the same or sometimes even less chippy than m390 and equivalents. Maxamet in my opinion is also easier to sharpen than them, especially on diamonds. You can safely begin sharpening with 400 grit and light pressure is essential (as mentioned on the video). I think 22 degrees per side is to much... anything between 17-20 degrees is ok. What I also like about this steel is fact that it reacts really nicely to stropping. Much better than m390. It's obvious that batoning is not the best idea and if corrosion resistance is not a deal breaker, then it's quite decent steel for EDC.
i think you should try a hapstone cbn, i saw a guy have no problem, but he did say the knife shines in cutting cardboard all day so i don't know for such little a job it i capable of if it is worth it, there are steels that will cut in many situations or use a box cutter for boxes
So this sounds like the perfect box cutting knife. Good because my wife orders from amazon all the time. My house inundated with boxes and I’m getting tired of dulling my knives so much. I have no interest in sharpening it when it dulls. Looks like I will use a strop and then send it to you when that no longer works.
For just opening boxes an Olfa knife can't be beat :) Partially kidding as I love my "fancy" steels but I've run knives over hidden staples once too often.
It is similar but doesn't use the crappy omega springs that Benchmade uses and is all around superior to Benchmade axis lock. Not surprising because all Spyderco are superior to Benchmade 😂
@@mikewhite255 you ain’t lying. But the bugout bk4 is one of the finest “going out to dinner” knives I’ve ever owned. Def check it out it’s a fine looking specimen
I had enjoyed my ZDP189 experiences and I thought that Maxamet sounded like a fun adventure based on forum posts but this video helped me realize I'm not the right user for Maxamet. I have had zero problems with my ZDP but I fear I'm way too casual and want way too much from a knife to be satisfied with a knife that is as fragile as you're describing. Thanks for saving me a bunch of cash, I'll buy something more forgiving for my next toy.
@@Mastermindyoung14 having bought a maxamet knife since writing that comment all I can say is that I am glad that I own other knives. It's an interesting steel and I'd love to have a kitchen knife in maxamet but it won't be a daily carry.
Meh, I'll take Cru-wear or M4 or even 14C28N over Maxamet any day. I could see enjoying it in a very specific type of knife, something small that I carried just for precision slicing/cutting, but I prefer toughness over brittle hard steels like Maxamet, 15V or Rex 121. i do a lot of whittling and carving with my pocket knives and I find that these brittle, high-Rockwell "super steels" chip very easily when you apply torsional pressure as you're cutting. I'd be interested in trying maxamet or an analog in both a convex and a Scandi grind blade to see if the more robust width behind the edge made them more stable but a Manix 2 is too thin for me to trust steels like Maxamet. My Cru-wear 2XL is my favorite knife that I carry daily (along with my M4 Shaman) so I'm very familiar with Spyderco's and I've been collecting them since the mid 90's. Until lately I've managed to avoid the draw of these "sprint run" knives but that Cru-Wear 2XL just called to me.
Edge retention isnt the issue people make it out to be. Its a marketimg scheme to get people to buy knives and pay higher. The truth is, under actual real world use, maximet is gonna get screwed just as fast as s30v. Maybe in a different way but screwed non the less. Bc in the real world when you're actually using your knife, you're gonna cut through whatever it is you're cutting and run into something else thats either gonna round, chip, or dull it. Example, if your cutting zipties that are holding hoses or wires to a frame on a piece of equipment or a vehichle frame, youre gonna hit the edge on the steel frame. Then, guess what, its dull, or chipped. If you're stripping wire, your gonna hit the copper, and guess what, same result. If your cutting boxes, which who does? People who want a reason to use their knife. Your gonna hit a staple and... chipped, or dull. If im cutting a hydraulic line or rubber hose or even rope, thats actually used, not brand new store bought stuff people test with, its gonna be covered in dirt and grit which contains iron. Guess what! Chipped or dull. Any real world use, even kitchen use where you would most definitely chip maximet on a cutting board the blades are gonna dull either way. Its a minuscule difference in real world. People on youtube doing testing with controlled items being very careful and everyone thinks it relates to real world. Its confirmation bias they want their 250 dollar knife to be the best and tell people its the best. And the reviewers are gonna tell you what you want to hear otherwise yall flip and go crazy just like this comment section. In reality, the knife company has scammed you into being happy to pay extra. Dont get me wrong i love spyderco and benchmade and think their worth the money, but the "exotic super steels" like maximet arnt any better then something like s30v or 45 in real world use. They all dull and chip. Now if youre in a office where youre begging your coworkers to cut open their yogurt for lunch just for a reason to use your knife and feel good about yourself, then sure, maximet may be special but for the blue collar guys its garbage. If it doesnt corrode away from soaking in your sweat all day, you will surely chip or even break the blade.
Few steels we see used in knives were actually created for the knife market. Out of the high carbide steels only s30v, s35vn, rwl 34, zdp 189 and cowry x/y were designed for knives. The rest were designed for other industries but exhibited qualities that could be used for knives so they were used.
The Carter testing only work on grinds lower the 0.20 behind the edge. You can use your fingernail to watch the edge flex. It's not used to test toughness. It's used to see if he has resilience and elasticity in the steel. If it doesn't flex and just stays bent then it's too soft.
Big Brown Guy I think you’re missing the point, perhaps intentionally. The point is that a knife edge should be able to endure sideways force in moderation, at least that required to sharpen it, by deflecting and springing back slightly, without breaking. Maxamet, as processed by most of the Spydercos I’ve handled, will not. And I repeat, absolutely no other steel I’ve ever sharpened behaves like this. Also, this is not a one knife anomaly - five out of the six I’ve sharpened had this defect.
Big Brown Guy I think if you read this comment section, and do a minimal amount of research, you’ll find his problem is real... or there has been a masterfully engineered conspiracy to trash Spyderco... by guys who love Spyderco. This video was not intended to prove the existence of a rather commonly known problem, but rather to give information on how to work around it. I think you should continue cutting up phone book paper, very carefully, with your Maxamet knives, and stop posting comments. You’re making yourself look silly... with all due respect.
It's strange, a lot of guys on the forums talk about Maxamet being easier to sharpen than S110V? I did see though that at first a lot of guys complained about chipping and had to send their knives in to be replaced. I think Spyderco changed their heat treat or something as guys have been really happy for the last couple months. Could be why you finally got a winner among all the previous losers?
I think Spyderco is having issues with their heat treat. I had one of these in for service a few months back and I had zero issues obtaining a hair-whittling edge on silica carbide stones. Strange!
Don't shut it hard ! Xhp d2 ! Im liking the s30v on the crooked rivers ! But its nearly as hard to sharpen as d2 ! But if its hard to sharppen its edge holds ! I guess not for this one ( maxima ?) ? Thanks for the warning !
Spyderco released the police 4 model in another steel with weird chemistry, k390- %2.5 carbon and %9.0 vanadium. Any experience with this steel? Also isn't zdp-189 another super high carbon, chippy steel (also used by spyderco, hmm...)?
Mt. Baldwin k390 is Bohlers version of cpm 10v. It's not a super tough steel but it's tougher than maxamet. 390 is usually ran to 62-65 hrc while maxamet is ran to 67-69 hrc which makes it harder but more brittle. K390/10v make a good knife if you cut up lots of cardboard for work. I haven't had any issues sharpening those 2 steels. Before you start speculating do a lil research.
Vesselin Georgiev Re: What is K390 Comparable to? PostFri Dec 09, 2016 8:56 pm I have been using K390 from the start ever since it was introduced by Bohler and I got some small samples to try. A bit of history is that it is the European version of CPM 10V but not the exact chemistry (about 1% less V plus small addition of a few others). That is because the CPM 10V chemistry was protected by patent at the time. If you check the K390 data sheet it claims that the bit less V gives K 390 a little boost in impact toughness. It also can be heat treated at a lower temp. than 10v. So it is pretty much the same as the A11 grade but different in a few small details. It is hard to tell the difference between CPM 10v and BU K390 in the real world in my experience. I like both grades and they are the base line (along with Vanadius 10 and K294) from which I measure wear resistance. The 5 chrome is there to make them all air hardening among other things and does not contribute much to corrosion resistance. It is going to make a killer knife in the new offering and be another classic. Phil This was said by Phil Wilson who is a master knife maker and knows his steels. I know that K390 doesn't have the same exact composition as 10v(A11, Vanadis 10 or K294 like you said) but it's close enough and 10v is more well known. I should have said that k390 is similar to 10v instead if it's Bohlers version of it.
I don't think that maxemet makes a bad knife. I think just the majority of users make bad maxemet users.
It takes judicious use to enjoy the merits of that steel.
no, sir. you can't enjoy the long life of the steel if on every cut you're trying not to chip. that long life will only translate into a long agony until the inevitable.
Maxamet doesn't chip, and it's easy to sharpen for me, in my experience. I use the hell out of mine too.
CSLFiero ua-cam.com/video/S_7EPuJiHg0/v-deo.html
ua-cam.com/video/PEL70quVOMk/v-deo.html
@@CSLFiero I've been using my maxamet for a year now. Once you figure out sharpen in it it's awesome. I cut tons of stuff with it and never was afraid of chipping
CSLFiero that is not the case at all with Maxamet. Idk where you’re getting that idea
Great observation and work Rob! Thank you for sharing with us.
Great lesson. After experiencing the same problems with Maxamet, I flowed your suggestions with success. Thank you!
Have had a much different experience with my maxamet so far. I really like this steel.
I've had my Maxamet Manix2 LW from the first month they were available. Have not had any issues with it. It'll cut zip-ties and cardboard with no problem.
Resharpened it because I simply wanted to. I set it to 15 per side and no microbevel. Also didn't take the edge past a 500 grit shapston stone. Haven't had any issues with chipping or other issues. I tend to press down hard on my stones while sharpening.
I can take a video of cutting cardboard, wood or zip-ties if anyone doesn't believe me. I believe Cliff and you with no quesiton that the knives you've had were not up to par, but mine has been great. This video is actually the first I've seen of people complaining - though I don't browse the forums as much as I used to.
I really think they screwed up the heat treat on some of the runs, like what you hear about ZT's early attempts with Elmax. Hasn't this happened before with Spyderco and one of their(at the time) new steels not many people were using?
I had one that cut a ridiculous amount of rope under a 20dps microconvex, and seemed to do okay. But really, this Bugatti Veyron of steels is about as practical for the average knife user as the said Veyron is for the average motorist. A good data point but MUCH safer to retreat down the heirachy to things we know better, like ZDP189
Cedric & Ada Gear and Outdoors Excellent analogy. I’m not sure Spyderco gets the “tune” as right on Maxamet as often as Bugatti does on the Veyron, however. Most of the ones I’ve handled were most certainly not optimally heat treated. Apparently that has been a bit of an issue.
Over 800 cuts with the same model knife......incredible my friend.. your vids have changed my mind on maxamet, also the local knife store owner here in town is an expert in metallurgy, and he's been ranting and raving about how incredible it is for a few months now. Endgame super steel. The only negative is that does rust if you edc it in humid conditions.
It is HSS Cobalt tool steel. It is good but nobody cares to design sharpeners for these type of materials. I get jugged edge when I try to sharpen a ceramic blade, too. Probably a strop stick with a diamond compound would be the easiest way to touch up the edge before it gets too dull.
I’m so glad that I have the Native 5 in Maxamet. Once you got a Bugatti, you prob will never need another car, or in this case knife
i know im asking the wrong place but does any of you know of a tool to get back into an instagram account??
I stupidly forgot the password. I appreciate any tricks you can give me!
Super informative! Thank you!
There have been no maxamet sprints. Like s110v maxamet is a regular production steel.
Maybe Carpenter should throw a little gold in the alloy. That would soften it up and make it cost a lot more.
Chris Allison wow good job
I wonder if Spyderco changed the HT on the folders compared to the Mule Team Maxamet. I've really had a fantastic run with my MT. I just run a 400 grit 15dps edge with a 20fps brown sharpmaker rod micro bevel. I chipped it once on a big staple but it's been a really great steel. No issue's with tune edge tearing out like I'm reading/seeing in the Manix 2 & Native 5 LW knives.
I’ve been using mine for years doing normal knife things like carving wood, and haven’t had any chipping problems. It takes a while to sharpen, but the edge retention is unreal.
There’s no need to baby this steel. I love the stuff.
I sharpened my Native 5 Maxamet on the Edge Pro Apex with Edge Pro Diamond Matrix stones from 80 to 4000 Grit and stropped with 2 micron 1 micron 0.5 micron and 0.1 micron Jende Diamond Emulsion on Balsa wood (also on Edge Pro Apex) and 16 degrees per side without micro bevel and absolutely no issues, no chipping, nothing. I got a hair whittling sharp mirror polished edge without any problems.
Paul i got give you credit I've never seen better looking polished edges. Really nice looking!!
Enjoyed your video, I myself had different experience in sharpening and use. I have cut 100 plus zip ties with no problem.
I just now ran across this video, and you describe exactly the problems I have had with my older Manix. I indeed solved the issue by sharpening at 20 degrees. I have treated this particular knife gently since, (read hardly use it), with no problems so far. I just got a Sage 1 in Maxamet and forgot about my lessons learned on the old Manix, and put a polished 17 degree edge on it. The first time I cut some phone book paper with it a chip magically appeared. :( I agree it's a poor general use steel, but I have cut miles of cardboard with it and it never dulled, just chips, so there is that. Next time I am going to use 25 degree per side micro bevels! Great video, thanks!
Well apostle P, thanks for saving my mantix 2 from the junk drawer
I know how to sharpen and I had gotten so frustrated with this steel that I put it away
Went back after the video and started with 600 grit and a standard V grind 21 degree primary bevel with no micro bevel
Took awhile but I worked from there down to a .05 micron strop and it’s sharp enough to do what i bought it for... cut cardboard.
Still won’t take a fine edge as well as my s30v, M390, 20cv, or even s110v
But it’s good enough
I didn’t have chipping like you did but it was like after 100 grit my burr just fell off and left a jagged edge I couldn’t clean up
Was actually able to apex with the 600 and chase the burr after that until deburring on 1500 grit diamond
Thanks again I think you are right on about this steel
Wish I wouldn’t have bought it but it better cut a lot of cardboard for me now
They must of fixed the heat treat as of 2020. Ive sharpened my para 3 keeping the factory angles with eze lap diamond fine and dmt ultra fine finish with spyderco ceramic. No problems to report as of yet.
Every thing you went thru to sharpening i also experienced the same issues and had to sharpen as you did. Maxamet makes a great lathe bit but for knives i feel it not worth the cost or troubles.
I use both Spyderco maxamet and custom ones by McCullen knives and I use them for everything and have not had anywhere near that kind of trouble with them. I mostly sharpen them with my 2X72" belt grinder up to a worn out 2000 grit belt, I convex them as I do almost all my knives, when I don't feel like going down to the shop I use a 600 grit Norton fine stone to touch them up and finish on a worn out 2000 grit strop I made from an old sanding belt.. I have had the PM2 and Native since they came out and carry the PM2 daily I have had a McCullen knives straight knife even longer than that with good results. In adding a microbevel I would think you are coming closer to a convex edge and I can see where it should help you.
I had some huge/ similar issues with h1. I was only able to not rip the apex off by doing ONLY strokes away from the edge. If i went towards the edge, no matter how light the pressure, i'd just rip the edge right off. :(
Have you experienced this with H1 rob??
Maxamet has been very good in my experience based on recent releases since 2018. I’ve got a manix, PM2 PM 3 and have had none of the sharpening problems described. This is based on venev bonded diamond stone sharpening, and diamond stropping. I have had use chipping but each time has been a steel to rock or steel to steel misuse issue. Edge retention is otherwise excellent, I recommend the steel especially if you have a diamond based sharpening system.
no it hasn't, you just saying it cause you need to justify buying a knife with fancy metal that's garbage.
And you know this how? If you are psychic I’d suggest getting a new job, have you even used maxamet or are you saving up for a skateboard?
MovieGuy666 why are you so upset that people are actually truly enjoy a knife they have purchased. I have had no issues whatsoever in the six months I’ve used my manix 2. Sharpening on my cemented diamond system is no more difficult than most other high end steels. I think the issue may, in fact, be your skill level.
Yes I’m replying to myself, thinking that a 3year follow up was worthwhile. My manix served as my everyday carry for two of the last three years. My experience with the steel has been great. Chipping only with steel to steel or concrete impact.
I’m far more concerned with the lock on the manix as when wet the purchase on the ball cage is dodgy. The LW construction bars replacing the cage easily. The spring never weakened on my maxamet manix.
I agree with your statement and I don’t use the venev stones (yet). However I did just pick up the KO3 pro hunter with a set of the tsprof Diamond stones and they work beautifully. I had a hair shaving edge in 15-20 minutes Tops. I have heard so many in the knife community maxamet this maxamet that. Use the right tool for the job the right tool for maxamet is a decent set of Diamond stones and a little technique. Although I would not recommend a super low grit like 120.
Rant over, stay sharp my friends!!!!
I recently got a PM2 with MAXAMET. Came at 17-18 dps. And i had no issues with the factory edge. It held up quite nicely to lateral tensions.
First sharpening I dropped the edge angle to 16 dps. Had absolutely no issues sharpening it and getting a nice "crisp" edge.
Listening to you talk about how you worked the secondary wit minimal pressure...maybe that was it! For months now I am sharpening using very little pressure. It started as a test to see if I could sharpen a knife and create a burr so minimal that there was no felt difference in use whether you deburred the edge or not, and i just noticed that the edges i got were more to my liking.
I have heard a lot of people complain about maxamet. So far I can't relate but i did enjoy you video...as usual.
This is interesting. Given the high edge retention I would expect it to be very brittle and I treat it that way. I haven't had trouble sharpening mine. I never let it get very dull and I use a 500 diamond with light strokes followed by 1200 (on an Edge Pro). Dumb luck on my part choosing these stones. And yeah, relative to steels like ZDP or M390, maybe more trouble than it's worth.
Cliff Stamp's comment about the grain of the steel is also interesting.
I have the exact same knife and had to sharpen it up as well. I used my Edge Pro Apex and did achieve a mirrored hair splitting edge but it was not easy. Nor was it fast. A steel like this required my diamonds ,diamond strops and time. I definitely wouldn't say the average Joe would want to sharpen up a knife like this by hand. I see much frustration in their future. It's great but steels like XHP with a great heat treat achieve an equivalent edge much easier. Resist rust better, and hold it for a highly respectable time as well for a fraction of the cost. God Bless. Just my 2 cents. Thanks for the content bud.
Hi, what is your opinion on cts-xhp - is it tough enough to hold its edge decently?
I know this video is very old but wanted to share my experience with maxamet. Now mine is from early 2021 and may been treated much differently than 4 years ago. I've heard many horror stories but also heard many people having great success with sharpening. I reprofiled with 300 grit dmt and refined with 600 grit dmt them 3 micron gunny juice on basswood at 18°. That's it, no problems, no chipping and used 3 edges so far repeating this process with same great results. Did spyderco get better at ht maxamet or am I just that good, probably a bit of both. Hope this helps
what would be your top 2 choices of steel for an edc pocket knife? I like ATS-34, and D2 the most.
Eh... I value toughness in a knife steel as much as edge retention, and to some extent corrosion resistance and value of the steel.
I really do feel spoiled using something like CTS-XHP.
That's strange, I get excellent quick results with maxamet with bonded diamond stones on my edge pro. I did 25° inclusive aswell, and I have no chipping.
I had problems with a manix 2 is s110v. I sharpened it on my kme 4 times with no success. With a brand new 50 grit beast too! Could not get my burr to grow no matter what I did. Could get it working sharp but not that hair popping sharp. I came to the conclusion that it was a bad heat treat. Sooo hard. I traded it in for a manix 2 in s30v. I then finally decided to try out s110v again praying it was just that one knife and got a native 5 in s110v and had it super sharp first attempt. Felt good! I've been wanting a maxamet knife but I'm on the fence because I don't want to fail sharpening it and waste my time and then have a knife I just can't get sharp. Not a good feeling. Cool videos I love your work. Your mirror polishes are insane. I go up to 5k cholera stones and then have my kme strops down to .1 micron and I still see small scratch pattern in direct sunlight. Is that just how it is? Or should I get the 10k chosera maybe...
The camera is a bit of a fooler. There are fine scratches in mine too. I don't think they're the result of the last stone we used, but left over scratches we didn't see from lower grit stones. These large/high carbide super steels tend to give us these fits. That's why I micro bevel most of them, just to be sure the apex is really the result of the finest grit I use without residual scratches. Also, don't be too concerned with burr formation on steels like this. They're usually too hard to produce much of a burr. Let your eyes and fingers be your guide. Hope that helps.
This is why I watch your vids, Rob. I just don't need to pay extra for a knife and have to worry about a delicate steel. I dont need the headaches. I sharpen my own knives but I'm only a novice. I enjoy trying out some of the super steels but this may just be beyond my needs.
Very interesting. I love the problem solving with this odd-ball stuff. What do you think about convex sharpening? You had that cool sandpaper strop holder awhile ago, seems like a great reason to bust that out. I've seen videos of guys having good results sharpening ceramic kitchen knives using the wet/dry sandpaper over a neoprene mousepad method.
What’s a good steel to get in a Spyderco that I can use every day .. I’m a mailman cutting a lot off plastic straps.. thank you
Would you have the same problem sharpening it, if you used a wicked edge sharpening system?
Very helpful, thanks.
I literally just sharpened my PM2 in maxamet. I definitely did not have this issue. I also didn’t find it any more difficult to sharpen than s30v. Maybe they’ve changed the heat treat on their maxamet since this video?
Same here, I use DMT plates and strop with 1 micron on Para 2 without problem. I think they must have gotten the heat treatment fixed.
I own and use the Manix version of this knife. I found it very difficult to sharpen with alumina stones. When I switched to diamond plates for re-profiling and ceramics to finish the process became much easier. Maybe I got lucky with my example but I haven't experienced large chipping when sharpening. I sharpen to 30 inclusive without a micro-bevel. I don't think I will buy another model with this steel however as 5/6 knives you sharpened having these problems doesn't instill confidence.
ReloaderSPR Sounds like you got a good one. It’s interesting I think hat the knives I’ve worked on haven’t given me much trouble removing material, even with alumina stones, but they just haven’t been stable. After reading the comments, it seems guys are having either very good or very bad experiences with this Steel. It would seem that the heat treat process is not in control.
Ha, I suggested that steel to Sal.
How do you explain the edge retention? Are many blades created from powder? I don’t know if many are. I do know that you can’t really judge it completely based on the material when it comes to something new. You have to go from experience if use. Your experience using it was very welcoming. Maybe though there needs to be a different way to sharpen as it is a different material.? Idk, I do like that there at least is something being tried. My experience is being a plumber welder and now a chemical engineer. I’d like to take a microscope or even an ET microscope to the edge after sharpened.
I use KME, and take it to 600 grit max, (diamond stone), seems sharp to me, not that hard to get the edge, but it does stain fairly easy on tomatoes or other fresh fruit? And I do have a chip at the front 1/4". But sure stays sharp a long time. I also strop weekly no matter the use.
I have sharpened a bunch of maxamet, I have never had this happen. I have had mild chipping on some of the Older maxamet when on low grit diamond stones but cleans right up once your over F240 grit. I have taken maxamet edges down to 15dps no problem, they prefer 16 to 16.5dps.
What stone were you using at what angle (the highest one) where you noted the apex actually coming off?
On the worst of the knives, the apex came off at 23 degrees, 600 grit Edgepro stone, light presure, in the belly of a Native 5. On subsequent knives, some Native 5's and some Manix 2's, if I saw the apex break off at 20 degress, I just went to the convex method. This was the firs knife I tried this method on.
I've also heard great reports on the Mules in Maxamet, from credible sources. But in these folders, I'm 1 for 6, and the 1 you see here I was very gentle with.
I have not seen that and have been using Maxamet in custom knives long before Spyderco has used it, plus other similar steels like 121REX, CPM-15V (not 10V). There are many possible explanations for it, such as the blanks of the knives were cut with the wrong grain orientation.
The first thing I would check is the steel cross-rolled, and what method is used to blank the steel. If the sheets have a distinct grain bias, and you blank parallel to it, well you would expect the exact behavior he has noted. If Spyderco (or whoever) doesn't have a method in place to prevent this, then you would just see it happen at random from batch to batch.
But it could also just be a sharpening issue (stones/technique), though the fact that the apex comes off in strips is problematic to explain without an underlying steel problem. Random chipping is easy to explain by any number of factors.
I have noted used the EdgePro stones in a long time (more than a decade), but for very high carbide steels, I have found that you need really soft bond stones, the Naniwa Superstone series is a decent one, or even traditional Kings. Sintered stones, or any stone with a ceramic binder (hard bond), is likely to cause fracturing in grinding at a level way above the grit level.
Plus you really have to avoid at all costs any movement parallel to the cutting edge, or at least minimize it because that just leaves a fault line.
In any case, I hope you report this to Sal he is decent at trying to resolve problems and Maxamet should not have this behavior.
I've replicated this in a fixed angle system on a manix 2 lw... but I can't agree with your conclusions.. it doesn't do well with lateral load but it's still steel, don't be afraid.
8f you have trouble, just minimise burr and lower pressure.
Used the manix 2 LW MAXAMET for 2 weeks offshore. Managed to put 2 chips in the cutting edge and lost maybe 1/64” of the tip. It didn’t seem to me to hold an edge any better than S30V. Easily got the chips out with diamond hones. Haven’t changed the bevel angle, but will next time.
2 weeks later:
Increased the angle on #600 diamond stone, stropped with 1 micron diamond.
Performed much better,
What is the knife in the opening to the channel?
MAXAMET is actually pretty easy to sharpen, I didn't have any issues under 20 DPS at all dealing with it. I tested it at both 15 DPS and 18 DPS. It's easier than I thought it might be given the alloy content. I use Silicon Carbide stones to sharpen with however.
No issues here sharpening maxamet and I don’t consider my self an expert by any means. But dang you hear the majority of the knife community just regurgitating the same garbage. My experience with sharpening maxamet 15-20 minutes max with a decent set of Diamond stones you have a hair shaving edge. Although I would not recommend a super low grit like 250 or lower. Stay sharp my friend!!!
@@andrewjewell8209 The majority of the so called knife community are literal children or just man children. Not sure which is worse, the actually little boys or the grown as men with minds of little boys. The reason EDC bros are so obsessed over steel in the first place is... marketing, and ignorance. Classic combo. But whats more the reason they are so hyper focused on the one aspect of blade steels that probably matters the least, which is abrasion resistance, which they just blindly call "edge retention durrr" is because none of them actually know how to use or maintain a knife. They've never actually sharpened any knife. They think like children. Its like "my car CAN BEAT your car" "this beats that car" all that bs child like little boy brain bs. They're looking for magic. Magic steel that won't need maintenance, because they don't know how and they're too lazy and scared to bother learning. I've seen it carry over into abrasives too. They don't even know how to sharpen and they want to fanatically post about industrial/commercial grade specialty stones that aren't even available to the general pubic, because they think it's magic. They don't realize like you said, a $30 silicon carbide whetstone will work just fine. Even alumina stones work in low enough grits. They think it's magic. I need one of those magic "super" vitrified bonded diamond stones. Magic stones, which I don't know how to use, for my magic steel, which isn't supposed to get dull in the first place. None of it makes any actual sense. It's quite annoying though.
Ceramic that looks like steel is a decent analysis, it is one of the class of intermediate compounds meant to bridge the gap between HSS and carbide tooling.
Where are your videos!!!!!!????????
@@SharpThinkingKnives he's gone.
@@Mastermindyoung14 he wasn't back then 😂
Do you have same issue with cpm10v or k390?
How about using this blade steel ?
It is a bad heat treat . They will have maybe have try a lower hardness in the final temper !
Very detailed review on this steel. Thank you Rob. I don't see myself ever owning a Maxamet knife after watching this. Even ZDP is more stable than this stuff.
Knives coming out of Golden CO / Spyderco are not sharpened by hand. If you watch their tour of the plant on youtube you can see that a robot sharpens the knives. That has to take some of the variable OUT of the process. Just a FYI. It would have been great for you to include a clip of the video of you experiencing the issue with the steel while on a stone. Thanks
How did you get the mirror edge on the knife….incredible
The reason maxamet is so brittle is because it brought to to a very high hardness its Rockwelled at high 60 sometimes 67
Seems like it might be a good steel for (some) cooking knives?
Thank you for the enlightening video. I already have my problems sharpening ZDP-189. I prefer easier steels for EDC as VG-10, etc.
I just got a Para 3 LW with CTS BD1N, I'll see how it goes.
No problems with my old knives in ATS-34, or with the Sebenzas in S30 and S35VN. Excellent the 154CM on my old green BM 840 Osborne, no need to upgrade to more exotic steel.
Life & Nature how’s that para 3 LW workin for ya? I’m thinkin about buying one, definitely agree with the easier steels for edc
God I hope this was just a bad heat treatment in an earlier run of these knives. I just ordered the Manix 2 in CPM-S110V and Maxamet. One may get returned though.
I haven’t experienced any of the brittleness he speaks of. I have owned my manix 2 maxamet for over a year and it is still amazing and sharp. I HAVE cut zip ties with no problem. I love maxamet so much i just bought a pm2 in maxamet. He is upset because he had to take a LOT of time to sharpen that knife.
I have learned more about sharpening and steel by watching your videos than from anywhere else. Thank you for your videos
Just discovered something that I thaught might be relevant to this topic.
Sharpening a disposable boxcutter blade to perfection is much harder than sharpening Maxamet.
So if you able to sharpen a box cutter blade to your liking then you will be more than capable of handling Maxamet.
I had to go through a couple of techniques to try and get the micro chips out of the boxcutter blade.
Here is what I ended up with: Using Lansky fixed angled sharpening system on box cutter blade
Apex 200grit
Run blade over 600grit stone 90° to get chipping from the 200grit stone out
re-apex with 600 grit
run 2000grit sandpaper over edge to get those chips out
Re-apex 1200grit
then run 1200grit stone over edge length wise to create horizontal scratch pattern and mimic higher grit.
Then strop
This produced hair whittling edge with no chips on box cutter blade.
It is a real mission but its fun to try on box cutter blade.
The type used: tinyurl.com/yxjcqoov
With time, makers and users will adapt to Maxamet. I love S90V and haven't even tried S110v yet, and I won't be an early adopter of Maxamet, but will be watching.
Just tried to sharpen my Maxamet Manix 2 LW 15 dps and 1/2 inch wire piece of my apex fell off and a ton of chips. I figured I was using the KME BEAST, so my fault…. Went to 140 grit and could tell if the burr was really a ragged burr or the apex was being chippy. Hour and hours went by then went to microbevel at 17 dps. Finally sharp for 90 percent of the apex except the heel part isn’t that great. I suppose I should have started at 300 grit or 600 grit even? I would describe my experience as very painful! Much harder to keep from chipping than s110v
Not gonna lie I cut through zip ties and other cabable metat with my maxamet para 3 lol no chipping yet gonna be dull quick maybe roll or micro ch
More people need to know about this and see this video... I'm not sure if youre open to it, but maybe make a short 3 minute video with the basics of why to stay away from maxamet and spread it everywhere... Maybe tell them if they want to know more watch this video and leave a link. Just an idea because there's a large consensus out there that maxamet is the best steel on earth and everyone seems to love it and want it. Awesome video as always... Seriously impressive that you were able to obtain that edge on maxamet. I believe that you're the first I've seen to do it.
EDC with Aaron there have been a bunch of people here on UA-cam that have gotten some great edges from maximet along with great results from testing it, I don’t agree with banning the steel. I noticed a guy up in the comments saying he didn’t have issues with his wicked edge which uses diamonds. Maybe that had something to do with the ripping out of the edge when using other abrasives but I’m not sure.
I think we r running some Proto para 3 blades In maxamet they want it at like 65-70hrc!!!! Like I’ll never be able to sharpen that
Is it just the camera or does that thing have the Bowie's finish? It looks really cool
i use my maxamet mule as an edc. It is easy to sharpen with my double sided dmt stones, red=600, green=1200 and i finish with the spyderco ultra fine ceramic bench stone 306uf. i have had no chipping ,none of the alarmist banter that this "apostle" speaks of. so take your maxamet knife out and use it ,let the performance of the blade speak for itself.
My first Maxamet knife was a Para 3. The knife chipped a lot and was sent back to Spyderco. Spyderco sent the knife back to me claiming that the "Heat treat and HRC" were good, thank you for playing... I proceeded to sharpen out the chips and eventually the edge stopped chipping. Most casual knife owners would have been out of luck. I sharpen a lot and was able to fix the knife. I look at the Maxamet steel much like a new baseball glove. It takes time to break it in.
I would love to get an update regarding your opinion of the steel. Thank you for the video! : )
After a few years and several more Maxamet knives sharpened, I would agree with your baseball glove analogy. To continue the comparison… when I was a kid most of the gloves we could afford behaved as you described. But if you could manage to spend twice the price of most good quality gloves, you could buy a Wilson A2000 or Rawlings Wing Tip. Those gloves were made so well, from the best hides prepared the right way, that they felt broken in right out of the box. It’s like the difference between a $200 pair of cowboy boots and a $1,200 pair today.
To bring it full circle, if I’m paying ultra premium prices for knives made of a particular steel, I don’t think I should have to “break it in” by sharpening away a significant amount of it for it to perform optimally.
Also, for most users/sharpeners, we all have a sweet spot on the spectrum of wear resistance, toughness and sharpenability that we look for in a knife steel. It’s kind of like the “crazy hot spectrum” for women. In that context Maxamet is like a stunningly gorgeous woman who loves sex, with multiple personality disorder, who doesn’t take her meds, but drinks excessively and has a penchant for violence when she doesn’t get her way. Definitely not wife material. And Maxamet will never be the steel for me.
@@TheApostleP Ok, so a little more of the story.
Knife 1 - Chippy till the factory edge was long gone
Knife 2 - Para 3 Used, sharpened and Zero problems
Knife 3 - Para 3 second owner, Brand New factory edge
I'm sending all 3 to Gerald at Outpost76 for cut testing. The first 2 knives are sticky sharp with the factory angle.
The third Para 3 is a wild card with the factory edge.
I sharpen 50-125 knives every year. Playing with super steel is a hobby for me.
Thanks for the years and years of outstanding UA-cam videos! Much appreciated. : )
@@barkingspider2007 I've seen UA-cam videos that said Spyderco Maxamet was horrible in early years, but they improved the HT and now it is so much better. Do you agree with this?
@@JustStartingOut-nt8ve Out of 5 Spyderco knives 1 had a chipping problem. 3 have yet to be sharpened.
I will know after I get the use them
2 are out on loan for HRC and cut testing wot Outpost 76.
@@JustStartingOut-nt8ve I have 5 Spyderco knives in Maxamet.
1 was very chippy right from the factory.
2 of the knives are out on loan to Outpost76 for HRC and cut testing (Para3)
I have a brand new in box PM 2
and a brand new in box Para3.
Sadly I can't say if they have improved the heat treatment at Spyderco. The point of buying so many knives in Maxamet was to see if the one poor example of the knife was a one-off. At the moment K390, REX45 and CPM4v are what I carry. In the stainless department, Magnacut is getting some pocket time. I tend to carry a knife for many weeks before stating any opinion.
How they sharpen up is also a big factor.
Magnacut is a great "Stainless" steel.
I prefer the high carbon super steel over stainless. For the money, K390 is hard to beat.
Honestly most users really only need s30v or s35vn if you need wear resistance S110V, S90V, and M390 are all options that are just fine. I agree with you on your statement about not using the knife. Most people buy steels just to “have” them but don’t actually use them to their full potential. Does anyone that is actually into knives ever really let their knife get dull enough to worry about actually sharpening and not just maintaining the edge?
Being all technical, but Spyderco Maxamet knives are not "Sprint Runs", they are regular production runs. The info on the steel is appreciated.
thanks 4 Rob,,i was considering it.
Nutun had one of those rustproof knives on his boat ! It rusted just like stainless rusts !
They test it under salt water when its the oxygen that oxidizes the steel ? The salt air is what takes the biggest toll ! Blade hq buried one in the salt lake for a week didn't rust ? Put some carbon steel with it ? And wet it and dry it in the salt air !
Great video was going to get this steel but I'll avoid it. Need to find the best EDC steel for my worksharp. Any suggestions?
Maxamet is awesome
If you are trusting a video this old to avoid buying maxamet, you are missing out on the best steel I’ve sharpened and used. I’ve had no issues that the author has. I have found that there must have been an issue in early batches of this steel. It’s that or some serious flaw in his sharpening technique. I love it so much I have three knives in it. I most certainly would not have done that to “justify my spending so much money on a knife”. Try to do some digging on recent reviews of this steel. You will find that this author’s experience is most certainly in a tiny minority of those reviews.
I know this is old... but that comment about cliff stamp talking about really obtuse angles. I have not been able to find anything about him saying that. He was the one that suggested this steel to spyderco. I know that because he told me personally. I know they kind of fixed the heat treatment of maxamet so I was wondering if your opinion has changed? I don’t own any maxamet but I’ve had s110v chip in a similar way. Love your videos man. Been a watcher since the very beginning. I think it was an American lawman or a recon 1 reveiw. Thanks for everything you have done.
You got a good edge but if its just going to flake off when you use it ?
I can't be much help on the edge toughness under use, Dale. I don't own one and haven't carried one. The horror of sharpening the stuff ended my interest. That said, there are guys who love the stuff. Perhaps I got a couple examples of a heat treat gone bad.
I really want this knife, and had this same knife in my cart, bit after watching this video I was wondering which blade steel you would recommend for this knife ?
joseph linares CPM-M4, M390, CPM-20CV, CruWear and CTS-XHP are all good candidates.
@@TheApostleP thanks, just got done watching your sale video, a zt caught my eye as well as the Chris Reeves large sabenza 21,wow awesome knives
I love the stonewashed finish on these. I wish they offered it on a few over steels, cpm 4v definitely being one. Have the 4v manix 2 and the "satin" finish is pretty rough, seems like that happens on the harder high carbide steels. As a user I much prefer stonewashed finish over satin. It hides wear better and on carbon steels it helps prevent patina better.
Don't fall in love with that stonewashed look on maxamet spyderco's. It patinas and changes VERY easily. To the point that if you get almost ANY kind of liquid (besides water and alcohol) on it, you will see spots. I had steak juice leave a spot in my maxamet PM3 and it was only on the knife long enough for me to eat dinner while camping.
I haven't done much with the blade for me to speak about the brittle/fragile nature of the cutting edge (like this guy did in the video), but the stonewash is anything but good. That much I CAN confirm.
Yes, I have that grey frn Manix 2 and I am not fan of Maxamet, I prefer much more my CPM S110V, K390 or even older ZDP-189 blades. I have a Lansky and a Gatco sharpening systems both with diamond rods and I don't have any problem with those hard steels even reprofiling them but I can't get the Maxamet as sharp as the others no matter the time I pass sharpening or stropping it and I find it more prone to chipping than the rest. I wouldn't buy it again but confess I haven't tried it with a coarse edge so maybe I am partially guilty for the results.
I have a factory 2nd maxamet para 2 .. i have also s110v native 5 and s30v manix.. the pm2 because of the steel im using 17 degree per side and its the most amazing knife and unbelievable steel ive ever seen ..
Just an update… I’ve seen much better and more consistent sharpenability and performance over the last couple of years from Spyderco’s Maxamet. But the early stuff was very hit and miss, and when it missed, it missed ugly.
Ya i think I'll stick to stuff like M4, S30/35, D2 and Magnacut. At least I can still sharpen those without having to baby them.
Yikes, no thanks. I'll take toughness over wear resistance any day, that's why I love 3V so much. How much extra are you having to charge for the extra time/effort in the sharpening process?
Funny thing: I found Maxamet to be the same or sometimes even less chippy than m390 and equivalents. Maxamet in my opinion is also easier to sharpen than them, especially on diamonds. You can safely begin sharpening with 400 grit and light pressure is essential (as mentioned on the video). I think 22 degrees per side is to much... anything between 17-20 degrees is ok. What I also like about this steel is fact that it reacts really nicely to stropping. Much better than m390. It's obvious that batoning is not the best idea and if corrosion resistance is not a deal breaker, then it's quite decent steel for EDC.
i think you should try a hapstone cbn, i saw a guy have no problem, but he did say the knife shines in cutting cardboard all day so i don't know for such little a job it i capable of if it is worth it, there are steels that will cut in many situations or use a box cutter for boxes
So this sounds like the perfect box cutting knife. Good because my wife orders from amazon all the time. My house inundated with boxes and I’m getting tired of dulling my knives so much. I have no interest in sharpening it when it dulls. Looks like I will use a strop and then send it to you when that no longer works.
For just opening boxes an Olfa knife can't be beat :) Partially kidding as I love my "fancy" steels but I've run knives over hidden staples once too often.
What is that app called?
Thx a lot, Rob, for sharing this interesting experience
Been waiting to see this steel on your bench. Lol.
Sam I hope I never see it again! LOL!
What does "too much fewer" mean? I own the app...
How did you get a spyderco with that lock mechanism? Is it an older model? Looks like benchmade’s lock mechanism
It is similar but doesn't use the crappy omega springs that Benchmade uses and is all around superior to Benchmade axis lock. Not surprising because all Spyderco are superior to Benchmade 😂
@@mikewhite255 you ain’t lying. But the bugout bk4 is one of the finest “going out to dinner” knives I’ve ever owned. Def check it out it’s a fine looking specimen
@@GanjaGuy for sure , it's a beauty.
I had enjoyed my ZDP189 experiences and I thought that Maxamet sounded like a fun adventure based on forum posts but this video helped me realize I'm not the right user for Maxamet. I have had zero problems with my ZDP but I fear I'm way too casual and want way too much from a knife to be satisfied with a knife that is as fragile as you're describing.
Thanks for saving me a bunch of cash, I'll buy something more forgiving for my next toy.
Maxamet is an excellent steel. This guy is crazy
@@Mastermindyoung14 having bought a maxamet knife since writing that comment all I can say is that I am glad that I own other knives.
It's an interesting steel and I'd love to have a kitchen knife in maxamet but it won't be a daily carry.
Meh, I'll take Cru-wear or M4 or even 14C28N over Maxamet any day. I could see enjoying it in a very specific type of knife, something small that I carried just for precision slicing/cutting, but I prefer toughness over brittle hard steels like Maxamet, 15V or Rex 121. i do a lot of whittling and carving with my pocket knives and I find that these brittle, high-Rockwell "super steels" chip very easily when you apply torsional pressure as you're cutting. I'd be interested in trying maxamet or an analog in both a convex and a Scandi grind blade to see if the more robust width behind the edge made them more stable but a Manix 2 is too thin for me to trust steels like Maxamet. My Cru-wear 2XL is my favorite knife that I carry daily (along with my M4 Shaman) so I'm very familiar with Spyderco's and I've been collecting them since the mid 90's. Until lately I've managed to avoid the draw of these "sprint run" knives but that Cru-Wear 2XL just called to me.
So, batoning is not recommended?
Scott G lol
There are videos of abusing this steel, and it holds up well.
Apostle what do you think of cru-wear?
I LOVE that steel!!!
Edge retention isnt the issue people make it out to be. Its a marketimg scheme to get people to buy knives and pay higher. The truth is, under actual real world use, maximet is gonna get screwed just as fast as s30v. Maybe in a different way but screwed non the less. Bc in the real world when you're actually using your knife, you're gonna cut through whatever it is you're cutting and run into something else thats either gonna round, chip, or dull it. Example, if your cutting zipties that are holding hoses or wires to a frame on a piece of equipment or a vehichle frame, youre gonna hit the edge on the steel frame. Then, guess what, its dull, or chipped. If you're stripping wire, your gonna hit the copper, and guess what, same result. If your cutting boxes, which who does? People who want a reason to use their knife. Your gonna hit a staple and... chipped, or dull. If im cutting a hydraulic line or rubber hose or even rope, thats actually used, not brand new store bought stuff people test with, its gonna be covered in dirt and grit which contains iron. Guess what! Chipped or dull. Any real world use, even kitchen use where you would most definitely chip maximet on a cutting board the blades are gonna dull either way. Its a minuscule difference in real world. People on youtube doing testing with controlled items being very careful and everyone thinks it relates to real world. Its confirmation bias they want their 250 dollar knife to be the best and tell people its the best. And the reviewers are gonna tell you what you want to hear otherwise yall flip and go crazy just like this comment section. In reality, the knife company has scammed you into being happy to pay extra. Dont get me wrong i love spyderco and benchmade and think their worth the money, but the "exotic super steels" like maximet arnt any better then something like s30v or 45 in real world use. They all dull and chip. Now if youre in a office where youre begging your coworkers to cut open their yogurt for lunch just for a reason to use your knife and feel good about yourself, then sure, maximet may be special but for the blue collar guys its garbage. If it doesnt corrode away from soaking in your sweat all day, you will surely chip or even break the blade.
Careful! You’re making way too much sense here!!!
Maxamet is a tool steel created for machining other steels. It was never intended to be a knife steel, so yeah...
UA-camVoice lol
As was rex 121
Most steels weren’t intended to be knife steels.. so that doesn’t really mean anything
Trevor 87 exactly!
Few steels we see used in knives were actually created for the knife market. Out of the high carbide steels only s30v, s35vn, rwl 34, zdp 189 and cowry x/y were designed for knives. The rest were designed for other industries but exhibited qualities that could be used for knives so they were used.
The Carter testing only work on grinds lower the 0.20 behind the edge. You can use your fingernail to watch the edge flex. It's not used to test toughness. It's used to see if he has resilience and elasticity in the steel. If it doesn't flex and just stays bent then it's too soft.
Big Brown Guy I think you’re missing the point, perhaps intentionally. The point is that a knife edge should be able to endure sideways force in moderation, at least that required to sharpen it, by deflecting and springing back slightly, without breaking. Maxamet, as processed by most of the Spydercos I’ve handled, will not. And I repeat, absolutely no other steel I’ve ever sharpened behaves like this. Also, this is not a one knife anomaly - five out of the six I’ve sharpened had this defect.
TheApostleP show us
With all due respect, regards
-Shawn
Big Brown Guy I think if you read this comment section, and do a minimal amount of research, you’ll find his problem is real... or there has been a masterfully engineered conspiracy to trash Spyderco... by guys who love Spyderco. This video was not intended to prove the existence of a rather commonly known problem, but rather to give information on how to work around it. I think you should continue cutting up phone book paper, very carefully, with your Maxamet knives, and stop posting comments. You’re making yourself look silly... with all due respect.
TheApostleP we both know Empircal evidence is King nothing silly about that. Take it easy Rob.
-Shawn
It's strange, a lot of guys on the forums talk about Maxamet being easier to sharpen than S110V? I did see though that at first a lot of guys complained about chipping and had to send their knives in to be replaced. I think Spyderco changed their heat treat or something as guys have been really happy for the last couple months. Could be why you finally got a winner among all the previous losers?
Tbh, I prefer Rex 45. No sharpening issues whatsoever, and it has ridiculous edge retention.
Sounds like the .40 S&W...a solution in search of a problem...
Junk.
Good Job
I think Spyderco is having issues with their heat treat. I had one of these in for service a few months back and I had zero issues obtaining a hair-whittling edge on silica carbide stones. Strange!
Don't shut it hard ! Xhp d2 ! Im liking the s30v on the crooked rivers ! But its nearly as hard to sharpen as d2 ! But if its hard to sharppen its edge holds ! I guess not for this one ( maxima ?) ?
Thanks for the warning !
Spyderco released the police 4 model in another steel with weird chemistry, k390- %2.5 carbon and %9.0 vanadium. Any experience with this steel? Also isn't zdp-189 another super high carbon, chippy steel (also used by spyderco, hmm...)?
Mt. Baldwin k390 is Bohlers version of cpm 10v. It's not a super tough steel but it's tougher than maxamet. 390 is usually ran to 62-65 hrc while maxamet is ran to 67-69 hrc which makes it harder but more brittle. K390/10v make a good knife if you cut up lots of cardboard for work. I haven't had any issues sharpening those 2 steels. Before you start speculating do a lil research.
K390 is not the answer to cpm 10v - it is k294 that has the same composition as cpm 10v ...
Vesselin Georgiev
Re: What is K390 Comparable to?
PostFri Dec 09, 2016 8:56 pm
I have been using K390 from the start ever since it was introduced by Bohler and I got some small samples to try. A bit of history is that it is the European version of CPM 10V but not the exact chemistry (about 1% less V plus small addition of a few others). That is because the CPM 10V chemistry was protected by patent at the time. If you check the K390 data sheet it claims that the bit less V gives K 390 a little boost in impact toughness. It also can be heat treated at a lower temp. than 10v. So it is pretty much the same as the A11 grade but different in a few small details. It is hard to tell the difference between CPM 10v and BU K390 in the real world in my experience. I like both grades and they are the base line (along with Vanadius 10 and K294) from which I measure wear resistance. The 5 chrome is there to make them all air hardening among other things and does not contribute much to corrosion resistance. It is going to make a killer knife in the new offering and be another classic. Phil
This was said by Phil Wilson who is a master knife maker and knows his steels. I know that K390 doesn't have the same exact composition as 10v(A11, Vanadis 10 or K294 like you said) but it's close enough and 10v is more well known. I should have said that k390 is similar to 10v instead if it's Bohlers version of it.
Interesting. Thanks so much for making this video. This exact knife had been on my wish list. I think I'll be passing on this one now.