I really like how you present information, Michael. Thank you for what you do. It's helped me to understand knife sharpening much better, and I feel that I already do a better job sharpening my knives simply by absorbing just a few key tips from these videos. Just wanted to say thanks. So...Thanks!! Dave
Honestly I had people say m390 is a difficult steel to sharpen but never had a problem with it. Actually I thought people were semi joking because it was so easy to sharpen. I never trust other people's opinions when it comes to sharpening I always make up my own opinions about steels. But I've got to say watching your videos is changing my mind on that.
I have a maxamet knife I used on the construction site I cut plastic with it No problem...I even cut some wire in an emergency but the edge chipped..it still cut after...I sharpened it with the DMT course blue pocket stone and .5 diomand strop ...and got it sharp again.
Found your channel by accident and really glad I did. The information you give on the different steels is what I have been looking for. Other channels seem to waffle on about unrelated stuff without really talking about the topic of the video and when they do they don't seem to go into any great detail or have any real knowledge. The detailed information you give is exactly what you need when deciding what steel is best for your needs. There's so much hype and BS out there. The forums are full of 'experts' and know it alls that you don't know what to believe. Btw I would love to be able to sharpen a blade where it can whittle hairs.
Your thoughts on the scratch pattern are something I hadn’t considered, but I’m still learning. I’ll have to give a try, thanks for the interesting video.
Thanks for not pulling the video Michael. This is super good information I can apply to my fixed angle KME system. I'm extremely used to sweeping motions and it makes sense that cutting that crap out would keep chunks of carbide from tearing out from my Maxamet Manix 2. Will report back.
Good to hear you haven't had problems. I've started asking people about their experiences with Maxamet recently because I plan on getting the Maxamet PM2 when it releases. I've been told by several people that I should steer clear of the steel, that it's too hard to sharpen, carbide tearout and chipping are common/to be expected. I've also come across people who love it and don't have any problems whatsoever. Love your vids man, keep up the good work.
Michael Christy Well, one person I had talked with who had remained adamant that the steel chipped too easily, hadn't actually used the steel themselves. I'd later found out that his "friend" had a Native that chipped a lot. I'm hoping to get my hands on Maxamet soon just so I can test it out myself.
SO glad you left this up. Can't argue with reason in explanation. Can't argue with results. One could try as stubbornly as they'd like. Their edge would always prove the point... Wrong approach.
Your teaching technique is a honed as your sharpening. There is no pride in it at all. It's very clear that you're coming from a place of sincere helpfulness. You're also seeking to learn from others' experience just as much as sharing your own (as any steel geek should be). This is just to give you an outside view of how I think most of us feel you come off. To have deleted this would have robbed the community of very helpful info. I imagine you came to that realization because it's still here. I also imagine it's a juggling act. Offend - Teach - Offend - Teach... You'll never stem false pride entirely but your sincerity is the best way to calm that beast long enough to hear... IMO. Appreciated, Marc... and many others I'm sure 🤙
Agree totally, on straight razors I hone heel leading, on knifes, I'm edge to spine, think about what the tool is made for !! I'd love to pick your brain someday on knifes !! In some instances razors are tougher to hone, but in most I'm finding out knifes are !!
I feel pretty much the same on the subject. Great info on scratch pattern I haven’t thought about that much. All I know is I’m very interested in getting some maxamet, I don’t even really care what model it is just to see for myself. Btw I don’t think your video is offensive in anyway to anyone. It’s simply you offering ideas as to what could be going wrong.
Same story with S110V...I read from numerous sources that it was difficult to sharpen and yet it’s a few minutes more than s30v and no problem at all. I was surprised and simultaneity a bit annoyed with the misinformation going around about steels. I think a lack of understanding of sharpening theory is part of the problem.
if you're dealing with vanadium steels you're going to need to use the right abrasives, I'd say diamond but it's not a must, I like diamond because it's cheaper than cbn and its also harder than cbn. SiC works but you're not going to find anything that's much finer than 1k in green sic. anyway. once you're already dealing with the maintenance regime of vanadium steels is makes very little difference if it's s30v or s110v. A coated diamond abrasive will work on them just about the same when hand sharpening. This is why imo if youre gonna carry vanadium steel edc, you'd be better off selecting by a minimum toughness threshold and getting the most vanadium bang for your buck and time.
If for nothing else, this video opened me up more to the idea that how you move the stone across the knife is important. I don't like swirling patterns either and felt that method doesn't give me the kind of edge I like, but never put a lot of thought into it. Thank you. I have a Manix2 in Maxamet and haven't had any of the reported problems either. My sharpening technique isn't anything special, the last time it was sharpened I used an atoma diamond 120 grit to set the bevel I wanted, then finished it on a 400 grit edgepro stone and put no microbevel or anything on it. It's rough looking, cuts forever and hasn't had any edge problems. I will say though, the first time I went to sharpen it I did gouge out large chunks of the bevel - I assumed I was pushing too hard on it or moving the blade around when holding it while using my edgepro, as I've been guilty of that before.
Like you said it could be heat treat . The mule might be softer . Lot of knife company don’t tell their rock well numbers . Good video keep it coming .
I picked up a PM3 in Maxamet 11 months ago. The blade chipped along the entire edge in the first days of use. It continued to chip while I sharpened it. I'm very done with Maxamet. I just ordered a PM2 in K390 hopefully it will be a better for me. I have had no problems wit S110V and ZDP 189. If you would like to give a try working on a problem Maxamet blade let me know. I'd be happy to pay to ship it both ways. Spyderco would be likely to sharpen it again on the belts. The heat treatment might be off. Thanks again for the video 😎👍
I was looking to the comments trying to see if anyone had asked what you were using to stop with but I didn't see that question pop up. At the end of your sharpening you're strapping with the spray but I cannot for the life of me tell what you are dropping on. It almost looks like some sort of ceramic stone but I can't be sure and I'm hoping you'll tell me. I agree with you completely I actually haven't found a steal that with the right technique can't be sharpened pretty damn easy
Hello Michael , here is Jürgen. I have just seeing your video.(16:00 ,local time, cologne ,Germany). It is wonderful sharing your thoughts. Thanx for that. Sometimes i wish you would live in the neighborhood so we can discuss together.Recently i bought a Sage3 and i love it.The Taichung Spydercos are the best. It is a pity i missed the Mule Team Maxamet. Best regards.
Is there any chance you would want to upload a video of your sharpening technique where you show how you maintain your straight scratch pattern throughout the length of the blade? I'm primarily looking to see how you maintain that technique through to the tip of the blade despite the belly and curve thereafter. Video was great and informative as usual.
Thanks for the well considered video. I agree and have found my Maxamet Mule to be easy to sharpen with diamonds and strops, although I do not refine to your level. This knife is in daily use in the kitchen and as my dinner knife. Please keep up the good work.
I use the knife to trim steaks off bone after cooking with no sign of chipping if I make bone contact. I use it for a dinner knife and here it blunts on ceramic plates somewhat slower than a hap40 petty that I have used for similar jobs. The edge can be revived, quickly, with a diamond rod . My experience leads me to believe that the hardening of the mules may be different than production knives.
MIRAMICHIBILL Then why comment about the heat treat being different on the production Maxamet, if you don't have any experience with them? You can SPECULATE, but your statement makes it sound like you've used both versions...
Interesting points, thank you for the video. By the way, I noticed Spyderco has released Double Stuff 2 with CBN and fine ceramic sides (C303FCBN2), might be an interesting stone to try out.
i have a maxamet manix and a native i stripped some copper wire appx. 100x and it did have a few micro chips(even with these micro chips was still catching fingernail) ,hit it on some diamond stones and then ceramic was able to remove chips quite easily and back to crazy sharpness that is my experience with this steel have pics and experience related on the Bladeforums
Great vid as always! there are tones of videos out there that show how to sharpen knives but non pf them are entering to such advanced level as you do. so if you could make vidoe/s of your way of how to sharpen knives and point out some "do and don'ts" it would be great!.
At 15 degrees per side you shouldn’t run into any problems with most any steels for most people’s EDC use, even with mega carbide steels. I prefer to go more like 8-10 degrees per side though, and I’ve had some issues with Maxamet and having it chip during sharpening at those angles. If you I a muddy stone though I can get it to take an edge at 8-10 per side without chipping. If I then go to diamonds at an angle around the same as my main bevel, it will take an edge without chipping out. However, if I jump up to a 15 per side microbevel after sharpening it at 8-10 per side the edge will chip out on me on an Atoma plate. This could just be that I need to sharpen it more to get to good steel though, or I should maybe just microbevel with a Spyderco stone rather than an Atoma plate.
Michael, Just wanted to say thank you for helping me understand more about hand sharpening. Would you consider doing a video for guys getting back into the manual game with high carbides and diamond? I recently picked up a blurple manix and I'm having trouble figuring out EXACTLY what I need. Maybe some links to specific plates/stones? I found the diamond sprays on Amazon but there are so many DMT plates to choose from! The S110 video was great, just not sure if I'm seeing the exact same things you're using in it.
Quinton D. The DMT plates are the same except the size. You should choose the size that you’re more comfortable with. I will say, the larger plates are heavier and that gives more control.
Great video, thanks for the info. Will Chosera stones work for sharpening steels like Maxamet and S90V/S110V? I’ve been trying to find info on this but I haven’t found much.
If I had to guess I'd say that maybe the water stones that most of us rely on aren't up to the task of cutting supersteels. I've found that my beloved Naniwa Chocera stones don't do much to HAP40 and is slow on SRS-15, etc. I'll switch to Shapton GlassStones for super steels and sometimes even diamond plates although I don't generally like diamond much. CBN on strops is great for any steel IMO.
Rob Babcock next time you go with diamond plates, finish with an UF from Spyderco. Let me know how you like the result. CBN and diamond are good on strops.
Shaked Tollman actually it’s the opposite. I don’t have a set process for any steel. I have preferred processes for almost every steel, but it’s not set in concrete. I. An easily improvise for the situation or the tools on hand. If you firmly understand the fundamentals of sharpening, you’re open to a lot of options.
The problem with maxamet is not with the mule team maxamet knife. its the native 5 and manix 2 LW versions in maxamet. they seem to think its the edge angle. its too thin behind the edge or so thats what apostle p is saying. what is your edge angle on the mule team? i have kept my mule team standard bevel and it just goes and has no issues. its far more obtuse than the manix2 and native 5 in maxamet.
How long did it take you to learn to make the bevels even. I can make my knives pretty sharp, but the bevels look uneven from one side to another. Also, do you find the DMT stones load up easily?
From personal experience I share in your conclusions. Maxamet is a beast when used as intended and easy even to completely reprofile the edge on DMT. I wish I knew about it when the Mule was still available in this steel.
The diagonal stroke is okay if your bevel is cut at say a 45 degree sweep with the edge teeth pointed at the handle it is real strong for pull cuts but as you say... Takes away bite in general purpose push cuts but has lots of bite in pull cuts. However an edge like that isn't as strong as one like you and I put on with scratches perpendicular to the edge.
Hey Mike havnt said hi in a while. I still dont have maxamet yet sadly. I would agree its the stones arent fresh. Diamond will sharpen anything. Max isnt as hard as carbide is and my dollar stone will still remove material from my carbide edge razor blade. I just sharpened my K2 And for reprofiling i notice steels being way harder, but regular sharpening not so much. Reprofiling my zdp stretch sucked but just sharpening it now is just fine. So how does it strop back after use can you maintain maxamet like other steels
I'm sure you've answered this somewhere, but what brand of diamond sprays are you using? I am looking to get a nice variety of micron sizes down to .05 micron like you use for most blades. Also do you have a personal preference for folding blade steel between maxamet and other top shelf steels ie m390? Thanks for any input and your massively informative videos, much appreciated
Jeremy Curtis I use different brands of diamond spray at different times. It’s not limited to one brand. Sometimes I’ll use several different brands in the same video. I like most high end steels that are out today. I also appreciate some stuff that’s not high end, like 1095 and N690Co. I try to find the strengths of all the steels. I do like M390, M4, ZDP, S90V, etc.
Where do you source the extra fine grit sprays? I am having trouble finding anything under 0.25 micron. Definitely agree about finding positive qualities of steel varieties. Thank you for your time
Keep scratch pattern consistent, sweeping to match the angle of the tip is useless. Match the tip angle by raising your hand and applying downward pressure. This become apparent on a scandi ground knife.
Spyderco PM2 is out next week or two. are you going to get one of them? they are also making a para3 sprint run in maxamet as well, but i dont have a date of when that will release. possibly by the end of december, but i havent a real clue.
I noticed this is much cheaper steels, and i think this is what is happening: if you change angles, and keep a very very toothy edge, the edge teeth are facing all different directions, which can compromise certain parts of the edge when you make a cut. Cutting is generally in 1 angle, and if the teeth are set at a whole bunch of angles, theres a much higher chance of rolling or flattening the teeth. I guess the best way to imagine it is a very poorly serrated knife, where all the serrations are at every which angle and size. trying to do more testing on this theory.
....*sigh, now i want to try maxamet too. well, now to find some diamond/creamic stones while i'm at it. pretty sure it's not the steel, since powdered metallurgy takes a lot of the carbide aggregation and other weird stuff out of the equation. but then again, first batches are known to be a bit wonky...
I’m not a great sharpener. I have a little nicer than normal diamond stones. But not top of the line. I haven’t had any issues at all. I don’t know how to explain it but I just listen to the diamond sing while sharpening...
Dean Grondin I’m not sure how it would work out. I usually use vinegar and shoot for a patina that looks natural. Vinegar doesn’t work too well on M4, so I’m not sure what would happen with Maxamet.
Hi Dude I don’t know if I’ve tried a 4, .25 progression specifically, but I may have at some point. Regardless, to me 1 micron is the most important step in the strops. If I had to go the rest of time with just one compound, it would be 1 micron.
Forgot if u said to reduce the burr and then have the Burr completely removed on the first strop in this video or the other one. But I was interested on keeping the striations going parallel. So I gave it a shot on my cheep spyderco that I don't mind sharpening. All DMT course medium fine extra fine then spyderco UF after that dmt past 6 3 1 on bass Moved on to .5 .25 .01 diamond spray. That gives you an extremely aggressive edge that splits hair so so easy. Tried it on cardboard and there is a huge difference between that and my Normal polished edges. Thanks for the advice!
But I have a question I normally sharpen on bench waterstones on a 45 degree angle on my stone. Moving the blade full strokes back and forth. Now wouldn't that put the micro striations all pointing to the he'll of the blade? So if you run your finger from tip to hilt it wouldn't be as aggressive. But then if u go hilt to tip it would be extremely extremely aggressive. So have u ever tested that vs going parallel to the stone?
I am a huge knife lover and I’m getting into sharpening. I have made only one hair whittling edge, and about 26 (I’m joking. I have no idea but it’s a large number) Mirror polished knives and I want to get way better. Lastly could I send a knife to you to get sharpened? You would do fantastic!
Would you be interested in checking out my Maxamet Manix light weight im having trouble with it you can edc it sharpen it whatever you like if your not interested I'll probably send it back to spyderco. Well brother hope your having a great day talk to you later
Michael Christy hey I just saw your response I had sharpened mine with my diamond stones the first time and after breaking down a few boxes I noticed a bunch of micro chips when looking at the apex under my microscope so I resharpened the knife with ceramic only in the manner you talked about and got the knife hair whittling sharp then broke down some more boxes with the same results with chipping so sharpened it again this time I checked it under the microscope to make sure there were no deep scratches that I may have not gotten out but it looked good so I went at the cardboard once again still with the same result so I finally decided to send it in to spyderco to see what they think about what’s going on. I’ll let you know what they say when I here back from them I just shipped it to them yesterday
Michael Christy nah strictly cutting cardboard standing up like you do in your vids all are the same size Amazon boxes free of any staples. After my first test I thought there may have been a staple because of all the chips but there wasn’t. The main reason I feel that there may be a problem with the heat treat on my knife is because I sharpened my friends Maxamet native like you said to along with my Manix and his was put through the same cardboard with absolutely no problem and is still free from any chips and still super sharp. I know Spyderco’s warranty department can be a pain to deal with cause I had to send my Gayle Bradley Advocate back and your right I definitely had to be patient and as polite as possible because getting mad will get you know were with them. I don’t really care how long it takes as long as the issue gets resolved cause I really enjoyed using the light weight Manix it was comfortable and easy to wear in gym shorts especially because since my accident all I can wear is shorts. Well brother I appreciate your videos they always seem to help me in some way especially this one. I’ll try to keep you posted on the outcome of the knife. Hope your having a good one talk to you later
It's stuff like this that reminds me why I love knives and Sharpening. So much to explore
People in general are too quick to blame steel vs technique/understanding.
i think this is very true.
I would venture to hypothesize 8/10 issues with sharpening steels is technique.
Exactly 🙏 outstanding comment
RIP Mr. Stamp. People are too quick to blame anything…. other than the only thing all of their problems have in common.
The calmest, most edifying rant ever.
Excellent analysis, and I appreciate you were gentle when broaching other's technique. Well said, and correct in my mind.
I really like how you present information, Michael. Thank you for what you do. It's helped me to understand knife sharpening much better, and I feel that I already do a better job sharpening my knives simply by absorbing just a few key tips from these videos. Just wanted to say thanks. So...Thanks!!
Dave
Honestly I had people say m390 is a difficult steel to sharpen but never had a problem with it. Actually I thought people were semi joking because it was so easy to sharpen. I never trust other people's opinions when it comes to sharpening I always make up my own opinions about steels. But I've got to say watching your videos is changing my mind on that.
I have a maxamet knife I used on the construction site I cut plastic with it No problem...I even cut some wire in an emergency but the edge chipped..it still cut after...I sharpened it with the DMT course blue pocket stone and .5 diomand strop ...and got it sharp again.
Found your channel by accident and really glad I did. The information you give on the different steels is what I have been looking for. Other channels seem to waffle on about unrelated stuff without really talking about the topic of the video and when they do they don't seem to go into any great detail or have any real knowledge. The detailed information you give is exactly what you need when deciding what steel is best for your needs. There's so much hype and BS out there. The forums are full of 'experts' and know it alls that you don't know what to believe. Btw I would love to be able to sharpen a blade where it can whittle hairs.
Gaz Pyrotechnics I’m glad you found the channel and I hope you keep enjoying the videos.
Your thoughts on the scratch pattern are something I hadn’t considered, but I’m still learning. I’ll have to give a try, thanks for the interesting video.
James Miller thank you.
It's true though! In my humble experience if you sharpen parallel to length of edge it will never get sharp/as sharp as perpendicular
Thanks for not pulling the video Michael. This is super good information I can apply to my fixed angle KME system. I'm extremely used to sweeping motions and it makes sense that cutting that crap out would keep chunks of carbide from tearing out from my Maxamet Manix 2. Will report back.
Good to hear you haven't had problems. I've started asking people about their experiences with Maxamet recently because I plan on getting the Maxamet PM2 when it releases. I've been told by several people that I should steer clear of the steel, that it's too hard to sharpen, carbide tearout and chipping are common/to be expected. I've also come across people who love it and don't have any problems whatsoever. Love your vids man, keep up the good work.
J xcellent I wonder how much of people saying to stay away from Maxamet is people just repeating what a few others have said.
Michael Christy Well, one person I had talked with who had remained adamant that the steel chipped too easily, hadn't actually used the steel themselves. I'd later found out that his "friend" had a Native that chipped a lot. I'm hoping to get my hands on Maxamet soon just so I can test it out myself.
Great vid, thank you for clarification of your thoughts.
SO glad you left this up.
Can't argue with reason in explanation. Can't argue with results. One could try as stubbornly as they'd like. Their edge would always prove the point...
Wrong approach.
Thanks Mr Christy. Great video..
Your teaching technique is a honed as your sharpening. There is no pride in it at all. It's very clear that you're coming from a place of sincere helpfulness. You're also seeking to learn from others' experience just as much as sharing your own (as any steel geek should be).
This is just to give you an outside view of how I think most of us feel you come off.
To have deleted this would have robbed the community of very helpful info. I imagine you came to that realization because it's still here.
I also imagine it's a juggling act. Offend - Teach - Offend - Teach... You'll never stem false pride entirely but your sincerity is the best way to calm that beast long enough to hear... IMO.
Appreciated,
Marc... and many others I'm sure 🤙
Agree totally, on straight razors I hone heel leading, on knifes, I'm edge to spine, think about what the tool is made for !! I'd love to pick your brain someday on knifes !! In some instances razors are tougher to hone, but in most I'm finding out knifes are !!
I feel pretty much the same on the subject. Great info on scratch pattern I haven’t thought about that much. All I know is I’m very interested in getting some maxamet, I don’t even really care what model it is just to see for myself. Btw I don’t think your video is offensive in anyway to anyone. It’s simply you offering ideas as to what could be going wrong.
Same story with S110V...I read from numerous sources that it was difficult to sharpen and yet it’s a few minutes more than s30v and no problem at all. I was surprised and simultaneity a bit annoyed with the misinformation going around about steels. I think a lack of understanding of sharpening theory is part of the problem.
if you're dealing with vanadium steels you're going to need to use the right abrasives, I'd say diamond but it's not a must, I like diamond because it's cheaper than cbn and its also harder than cbn. SiC works but you're not going to find anything that's much finer than 1k in green sic. anyway. once you're already dealing with the maintenance regime of vanadium steels is makes very little difference if it's s30v or s110v. A coated diamond abrasive will work on them just about the same when hand sharpening. This is why imo if youre gonna carry vanadium steel edc, you'd be better off selecting by a minimum toughness threshold and getting the most vanadium bang for your buck and time.
@@jeffhicks8428
Indeed. I use diamond plates. Maxamet is not a problem. As I said above, just a few minutes more than a standard steel.
If for nothing else, this video opened me up more to the idea that how you move the stone across the knife is important. I don't like swirling patterns either and felt that method doesn't give me the kind of edge I like, but never put a lot of thought into it. Thank you.
I have a Manix2 in Maxamet and haven't had any of the reported problems either. My sharpening technique isn't anything special, the last time it was sharpened I used an atoma diamond 120 grit to set the bevel I wanted, then finished it on a 400 grit edgepro stone and put no microbevel or anything on it. It's rough looking, cuts forever and hasn't had any edge problems.
I will say though, the first time I went to sharpen it I did gouge out large chunks of the bevel - I assumed I was pushing too hard on it or moving the blade around when holding it while using my edgepro, as I've been guilty of that before.
Brian Duncan I’m glad you like led the video.
Nice video! I also don’t find it hard to sharpen Maxamet on my Manix2. Can get it hair whittling withing 30 min or so with the Wicked Edge.
Like you said it could be heat treat . The mule might be softer . Lot of knife company don’t tell their rock well numbers . Good video keep it coming .
little woody the edge retention on the Mule is extremely good. If it is a matter of HT, I would think Spyderco would be looking into fixing it.
I picked up a PM3 in Maxamet 11 months ago. The blade chipped along the entire edge in the first days of use. It continued to chip while I sharpened it. I'm very done with Maxamet. I just ordered a PM2 in K390 hopefully it will be a better for me. I have had no problems wit S110V and ZDP 189. If you would like to give a try working on a problem Maxamet blade let me know. I'd be happy to pay to ship it both ways. Spyderco would be likely to sharpen it again on the belts. The heat treatment might be off. Thanks again for the video 😎👍
Thank god u finally made a video
Great video, as usual, very informative. I don't see a reason to take it down. Looking forward to me PM2 when it comes out.
peterko this video was made very fast. Recorded, edited and posted in a few hours. I usually take more time then that. Glad you liked it though.
I've tried both sweeping strokes and shorter strokes making sure ths scratch is always perpendicular to the edge. The latter has worked more for me.
I was looking to the comments trying to see if anyone had asked what you were using to stop with but I didn't see that question pop up. At the end of your sharpening you're strapping with the spray but I cannot for the life of me tell what you are dropping on. It almost looks like some sort of ceramic stone but I can't be sure and I'm hoping you'll tell me. I agree with you completely I actually haven't found a steal that with the right technique can't be sharpened pretty damn easy
Hello Michael , here is Jürgen. I have just seeing your video.(16:00 ,local time, cologne ,Germany). It is wonderful sharing your thoughts. Thanx for that. Sometimes i wish you would live in the neighborhood so we can discuss together.Recently i bought a Sage3 and i love it.The Taichung Spydercos are the best. It is a pity i missed the Mule Team Maxamet. Best regards.
fluoling thank you Jurgen. The Sage series are nice knives. Glad to hear you're enjoying it.
Is there any chance you would want to upload a video of your sharpening technique where you show how you maintain your straight scratch pattern throughout the length of the blade? I'm primarily looking to see how you maintain that technique through to the tip of the blade despite the belly and curve thereafter. Video was great and informative as usual.
theboldshadow it's a detailed subject. It's something that, once you get it, you've got it. But before you get it, it can be confusing.
Thx a lot for this video!!!
Thanks for the well considered video. I agree and have found my Maxamet Mule to be easy to sharpen with diamonds and strops, although I do not refine to your level. This knife is in daily use in the kitchen and as my dinner knife. Please keep up the good work.
MIRAMICHIBILL it's interesting to hear that you use it in the kitchen. do you ever have a problem with impact on the cutting board?
I use the knife to trim steaks off bone after cooking with no sign of chipping if I make bone contact. I use it for a dinner knife and here it blunts on ceramic plates somewhat slower than a hap40 petty that I have used for similar jobs. The edge can be revived, quickly, with a diamond rod . My experience leads me to believe that the hardening of the mules may be different than production knives.
MIRAMICHIBILL What is your experience with the production version?
I only have the mule, so I cannot comment on other models. I did buy two at the time.
MIRAMICHIBILL Then why comment about the heat treat being different on the production Maxamet, if you don't have any experience with them? You can SPECULATE, but your statement makes it sound like you've used both versions...
I think I understand the motion argument. Scratches that are more parallel to the cutting edge act as score marks for lateral pressure?
Interesting points, thank you for the video.
By the way, I noticed Spyderco has released Double Stuff 2 with CBN and fine ceramic sides (C303FCBN2), might be an interesting stone to try out.
Arcturus I heard that it came out. It's something I'll look into when I get the chance.
liked and subscribed, i have a pm2 coming in maxamet and am a little fearful after listening to all the naysayers. glad to hear mileage may vary!
I carry Maxamet all the time. It is awesome steel!
i have a maxamet manix and a native i stripped some copper wire appx. 100x and it did have a few micro chips(even with these micro chips was still catching fingernail) ,hit it on some diamond stones and then ceramic was able to remove chips quite easily and back to crazy sharpness that is my experience with this steel have pics and experience related on the Bladeforums
I’ve used diamonds and also SiC and had no difficulty sharpening Maxamet on my Manix.
Great vid as always! there are tones of videos out there that show how to sharpen knives but non pf them are entering to such advanced level as you do. so if you could make vidoe/s of your way of how to sharpen knives and point out some "do and don'ts" it would be great!.
Ilan Khiyayev it's been suggested before that I do a more in depth video. It's something I'm thinking about.
Michael Christy thanks for the respond. Waiting with great anticipation for your next vid
At 15 degrees per side you shouldn’t run into any problems with most any steels for most people’s EDC use, even with mega carbide steels. I prefer to go more like 8-10 degrees per side though, and I’ve had some issues with Maxamet and having it chip during sharpening at those angles. If you I a muddy stone though I can get it to take an edge at 8-10 per side without chipping. If I then go to diamonds at an angle around the same as my main bevel, it will take an edge without chipping out. However, if I jump up to a 15 per side microbevel after sharpening it at 8-10 per side the edge will chip out on me on an Atoma plate. This could just be that I need to sharpen it more to get to good steel though, or I should maybe just microbevel with a Spyderco stone rather than an Atoma plate.
Michael,
Just wanted to say thank you for helping me understand more about hand sharpening. Would you consider doing a video for guys getting back into the manual game with high carbides and diamond? I recently picked up a blurple manix and I'm having trouble figuring out EXACTLY what I need. Maybe some links to specific plates/stones? I found the diamond sprays on Amazon but there are so many DMT plates to choose from! The S110 video was great, just not sure if I'm seeing the exact same things you're using in it.
Quinton D. The DMT plates are the same except the size. You should choose the size that you’re more comfortable with. I will say, the larger plates are heavier and that gives more control.
Awesome, thanks!
Great video, thanks for the info. Will Chosera stones work for sharpening steels like Maxamet and S90V/S110V? I’ve been trying to find info on this but I haven’t found much.
NordWave I wouldn’t use Chosera’s to sharpen those steels.
If I had to guess I'd say that maybe the water stones that most of us rely on aren't up to the task of cutting supersteels. I've found that my beloved Naniwa Chocera stones don't do much to HAP40 and is slow on SRS-15, etc. I'll switch to Shapton GlassStones for super steels and sometimes even diamond plates although I don't generally like diamond much.
CBN on strops is great for any steel IMO.
Rob Babcock next time you go with diamond plates, finish with an UF from Spyderco. Let me know how you like the result.
CBN and diamond are good on strops.
What I learned from these videos is that every knife steel has a process of sharpening, you just need to head down the right path for that steel
Shaked Tollman actually it’s the opposite. I don’t have a set process for any steel. I have preferred processes for almost every steel, but it’s not set in concrete. I. An easily improvise for the situation or the tools on hand. If you firmly understand the fundamentals of sharpening, you’re open to a lot of options.
The problem with maxamet is not with the mule team maxamet knife. its the native 5 and manix 2 LW versions in maxamet. they seem to think its the edge angle. its too thin behind the edge or so thats what apostle p is saying.
what is your edge angle on the mule team? i have kept my mule team standard bevel and it just goes and has no issues. its far more obtuse than the manix2 and native 5 in maxamet.
hi, Michael can you make a video explaining a TTT diagram?
How long did it take you to learn to make the bevels even. I can make my knives pretty sharp, but the bevels look uneven from one side to another.
Also, do you find the DMT stones load up easily?
doluseb DMT’s don’t load up at all.
As for the bevels, lots of practice. Slow down if you need to. It takes time.
From personal experience I share in your conclusions. Maxamet is a beast when used as intended and easy even to completely reprofile the edge on DMT. I wish I knew about it when the Mule was still available in this steel.
Mark Tudor you may still be able to find one. Maybe on the secondary market.
The diagonal stroke is okay if your bevel is cut at say a 45 degree sweep with the edge teeth pointed at the handle it is real strong for pull cuts but as you say... Takes away bite in general purpose push cuts but has lots of bite in pull cuts. However an edge like that isn't as strong as one like you and I put on with scratches perpendicular to the edge.
Do you think Maxamet is less prone to corrosion than d2? I had problems with d2.
For edge retention, do you prefer s110v or Maxamet?
Thanks.
daniel Dan if you’re having problems with corrosion, use oil.
Maxamet will have better edge retention then S110V.
Hey Mike havnt said hi in a while. I still dont have maxamet yet sadly. I would agree its the stones arent fresh. Diamond will sharpen anything. Max isnt as hard as carbide is and my dollar stone will still remove material from my carbide edge razor blade. I just sharpened my K2
And for reprofiling i notice steels being way harder, but regular sharpening not so much. Reprofiling my zdp stretch sucked but just sharpening it now is just fine. So how does it strop back after use can you maintain maxamet like other steels
I'm sure you've answered this somewhere, but what brand of diamond sprays are you using? I am looking to get a nice variety of micron sizes down to .05 micron like you use for most blades. Also do you have a personal preference for folding blade steel between maxamet and other top shelf steels ie m390? Thanks for any input and your massively informative videos, much appreciated
Jeremy Curtis I use different brands of diamond spray at different times. It’s not limited to one brand. Sometimes I’ll use several different brands in the same video.
I like most high end steels that are out today. I also appreciate some stuff that’s not high end, like 1095 and N690Co. I try to find the strengths of all the steels.
I do like M390, M4, ZDP, S90V, etc.
Where do you source the extra fine grit sprays? I am having trouble finding anything under 0.25 micron. Definitely agree about finding positive qualities of steel varieties. Thank you for your time
Jeremy Curtis I get the really done sprays directly from Ken Schwartz.
Keep scratch pattern consistent, sweeping to match the angle of the tip is useless. Match the tip angle by raising your hand and applying downward pressure. This become apparent on a scandi ground knife.
Spyderco PM2 is out next week or two. are you going to get one of them? they are also making a para3 sprint run in maxamet as well, but i dont have a date of when that will release. possibly by the end of december, but i havent a real clue.
Tactical Center I’d like to, but it’s too close to Christmas. Gotta worry about presents for the kids.
good point! man, i forget how close it really is to the holidays.
I noticed this is much cheaper steels, and i think this is what is happening: if you change angles, and keep a very very toothy edge, the edge teeth are facing all different directions, which can compromise certain parts of the edge when you make a cut. Cutting is generally in 1 angle, and if the teeth are set at a whole bunch of angles, theres a much higher chance of rolling or flattening the teeth. I guess the best way to imagine it is a very poorly serrated knife, where all the serrations are at every which angle and size. trying to do more testing on this theory.
asleepyinsomnia but people are having the problem even using guided systems.
....*sigh, now i want to try maxamet too. well, now to find some diamond/creamic stones while i'm at it. pretty sure it's not the steel, since powdered metallurgy takes a lot of the carbide aggregation and other weird stuff out of the equation. but then again, first batches are known to be a bit wonky...
asleepyinsomnia that’s true, but the Mule I’m using is their first batch. Just saying.
I’m not a great sharpener. I have a little nicer than normal diamond stones. But not top of the line. I haven’t had any issues at all. I don’t know how to explain it but I just listen to the diamond sing while sharpening...
Hey Mike can you put a patina on maxamet? Even tho they stone wash them?
Dean Grondin I’m not sure how it would work out. I usually use vinegar and shoot for a patina that looks natural. Vinegar doesn’t work too well on M4, so I’m not sure what would happen with Maxamet.
Have you tried 4 um strop and then .25? How necessary is the 1?
Hi Dude I don’t know if I’ve tried a 4, .25 progression specifically, but I may have at some point. Regardless, to me 1 micron is the most important step in the strops. If I had to go the rest of time with just one compound, it would be 1 micron.
I found Maxamet easy to sharpen as well. Thanks for the video
ApexKnives I remember that you didn't have any problem with it.
Would sharpening on an edge pro create those strange movements?
Ya that's what he's talking about. The only way to avoid that is to freehand for the most part
Hey Michael, can you lead me in the right direction to find good leather for stropping?
crf450r bullet david I usually get my stuff off Amazon. I couldn’t tell you a certain brand. I usually base it off of the compound I want to use.
Im sure you've said it before but what kind of wood do you use to strop on?
I jump in... If my memory serves me right... Basswood.
Joshua Burkhead Balsa
Bass wood he recommended the same to me. Been useing it since much better the balsa
Sour basswood seems to work far better than leather for burr removal and a little better than balsa for burr removal.
Can't wait for maxamet pm2
Sour yeah, it should be good.
U put out some dam good content on your channel
Forgot if u said to reduce the burr and then have the Burr completely removed on the first strop in this video or the other one.
But I was interested on keeping the striations going parallel. So I gave it a shot on my cheep spyderco that I don't mind sharpening.
All DMT course medium fine extra fine then spyderco UF after that dmt past 6 3 1 on bass
Moved on to .5 .25 .01 diamond spray. That gives you an extremely aggressive edge that splits hair so so easy. Tried it on cardboard and there is a huge difference between that and my Normal polished edges. Thanks for the advice!
But I have a question I normally sharpen on bench waterstones on a 45 degree angle on my stone. Moving the blade full strokes back and forth. Now wouldn't that put the micro striations all pointing to the he'll of the blade? So if you run your finger from tip to hilt it wouldn't be as aggressive. But then if u go hilt to tip it would be extremely extremely aggressive.
So have u ever tested that vs going parallel to the stone?
Sour I’m glad the video was helpful. I almost didn’t make and post this one.
I’d rather have a knife I need to sharpen once a month than a pry bar I need to sharpen every five minutes.
Hey is there some way besides the UA-cam comments section to get in contact with you to ask questions.
I am a huge knife lover and I’m getting into sharpening. I have made only one hair whittling edge, and about 26 (I’m joking. I have no idea but it’s a large number) Mirror polished knives and I want to get way better. Lastly could I send a knife to you to get sharpened? You would do fantastic!
Hi Dude I don’t take sharpening jobs, but you can email me at michaelchristy13@gmail.com
HeyMichael...what..steel...from..spyderco..would..you..say...is...your...all...around....favorite?...as...far...as..edge.retention..toughness?
Dean Grondin I’m not sure that I have a favorite. For a folding knife, I’m really liking K390 right now.
Michael Christy that’s what I have. I want to try maxamet tho. Or should I just get another k390?
Would you be interested in checking out my Maxamet Manix light weight im having trouble with it you can edc it sharpen it whatever you like if your not interested I'll probably send it back to spyderco. Well brother hope your having a great day talk to you later
Stassa23 what's wrong with it?
Michael Christy hey I just saw your response I had sharpened mine with my diamond stones the first time and after breaking down a few boxes I noticed a bunch of micro chips when looking at the apex under my microscope so I resharpened the knife with ceramic only in the manner you talked about and got the knife hair whittling sharp then broke down some more boxes with the same results with chipping so sharpened it again this time I checked it under the microscope to make sure there were no deep scratches that I may have not gotten out but it looked good so I went at the cardboard once again still with the same result so I finally decided to send it in to spyderco to see what they think about what’s going on. I’ll let you know what they say when I here back from them I just shipped it to them yesterday
Stassa23 just remember to be polite and patient with them.
Is the blade contacting anything other then cardboard in the cutting?
Michael Christy nah strictly cutting cardboard standing up like you do in your vids all are the same size Amazon boxes free of any staples. After my first test I thought there may have been a staple because of all the chips but there wasn’t. The main reason I feel that there may be a problem with the heat treat on my knife is because I sharpened my friends Maxamet native like you said to along with my Manix and his was put through the same cardboard with absolutely no problem and is still free from any chips and still super sharp. I know Spyderco’s warranty department can be a pain to deal with cause I had to send my Gayle Bradley Advocate back and your right I definitely had to be patient and as polite as possible because getting mad will get you know were with them. I don’t really care how long it takes as long as the issue gets resolved cause I really enjoyed using the light weight Manix it was comfortable and easy to wear in gym shorts especially because since my accident all I can wear is shorts. Well brother I appreciate your videos they always seem to help me in some way especially this one. I’ll try to keep you posted on the outcome of the knife. Hope your having a good one talk to you later
Stassa23 I hope it all works out with the knife. Interesting to hear the two knives were done side by side and only one had issues.
I'm looking forward to PM2 and Para3 Maxamets.
Chuck Nunface so am I.
I'm a beginner. I wish you would show an actual sharpening video start to finish. It's all kind of vague to me.
Jameson Cross I did do that video. It’s titled “Full Knife Sharpening - Opinel #9”.
Sounds like you'd handle as if porcelain