Great video, definitely learned a lot. This doesn’t seem to be too big of a job but your video will definitely help if I need to do this someday. Thank you for posting.
You should always throw some anti-seize compound when you are replacing bolts like that. You might think you will never have to replace them again but just in case....and for any other bolts that you replace or reuse.
Thanks for that tip. I guess I figured the car would unlikely be around in another 30 or so years. It’s a great tip and could save a lot of work further down the track.
did you notice if the vibration in the cab decreased? thinking of doing mine to make it more comfortable. I've done my gearbox and engine mounts already.
Reminds of some of the shit I get up to. You think it'll be straight forward and then before you know it you're over committed and stuck neck deep in shit (generally you also had plans to go out the day after and then there's a week lead time). Not sure if you have an air compressor, but an air hammer might have been useful here.
don't use wd40 use lanox or bust a nut, shift ya bastard or some other penetrating lubricant and spray every day for a week before you try to remove old nuts and bolts. The trick I've found that works best on body mount bolts and diff fill plugs and other old rusted or seized nuts n bolts on the 80 series is a bottle jack with some railway sleepers or wood blocks (yes that same bottle jack behind the rear tyre you haven't used since you put bigger tyres on your 80) and your old oem toyota bushes lasted 26-30 years so pay the extra and don't cheap out on bushes use the toyota oem stuff a poor man pays twice same goes for any nuts and bolts you replace spend the extra and get oem toyota and put some anti seize grease on them, but just be careful using torque specs with anti seize
I have had pretty good success with wd40 usually best if soaked over a week. Have tried some of the others. And found they are all about the same. Have a different bottle jack than standard due to the larger tyres. But yes that could work well. I usually use Toyota parts. Sometimes others. Sometimes I can’t afford the Toyota ones. Thanks for the tip on never seize and touque settings.
Thanks buddy, my rears are shot and this was really useful to see how they work. Tempted to just change all of them
I’m glad I could be helpful
Awesome to see you encounter problems, try various fixes and talk about them. My hands are covered in cuts todays as well :)
Great video, definitely learned a lot. This doesn’t seem to be too big of a job but your video will definitely help if I need to do this someday. Thank you for posting.
Correct it should ent be a big job if all goes smoothly.
I’m glad you found the video useful
You should always throw some anti-seize compound when you are replacing bolts like that. You might think you will never have to replace them again but just in case....and for any other bolts that you replace or reuse.
Thanks for that tip. I guess I figured the car would unlikely be around in another 30 or so years.
It’s a great tip and could save a lot of work further down the track.
@@blackllama1 works especially great when changing suspension components. 👍
Amazing vídeos Bro, greatest 💫 saluted Venezuela
Great video!!
Great video. Where did you get the OEM rubbers and the bolts you used didn't look OEM. Where did you get those in Australia? Terrain Tamer?
I used Toyota ones. Ordered from Toyota through my local parts shop.
Great video 👍👍
Where did you buy your parts including the washers and bolts?
Purchased through my local parts supplier ordered direct from Toyota.
Thanks mate good video!
Greetings, where can I buy the mounts?
Hi mate
Have you done the engine mounts
No sorry I have not had any problems with engine mounts yet.
did you notice if the vibration in the cab decreased? thinking of doing mine to make it more comfortable. I've done my gearbox and engine mounts already.
Yes there was less vibration.
RUS 👍👍👍🤝🤝🤝🤝
Reminds of some of the shit I get up to. You think it'll be straight forward and then before you know it you're over committed and stuck neck deep in shit (generally you also had plans to go out the day after and then there's a week lead time). Not sure if you have an air compressor, but an air hammer might have been useful here.
Sounds exactly how working on the 80 goes sometimes. It all takes longer than expected.
Yes I have an air compressor but no air hammer
Why not use excessive heat on the bolt? It's stuck in rubber and heat will melt it loose.. eventually.
I didn’t have access to an oxy touch or I probably would have tried it.
How Eva if the rubber burns there is a risk of setting the car on fire
don't use wd40 use lanox or bust a nut, shift ya bastard or some other penetrating lubricant and spray every day for a week before you try to remove old nuts and bolts. The trick I've found that works best on body mount bolts and diff fill plugs and other old rusted or seized nuts n bolts on the 80 series is a bottle jack with some railway sleepers or wood blocks (yes that same bottle jack behind the rear tyre you haven't used since you put bigger tyres on your 80) and your old oem toyota bushes lasted 26-30 years so pay the extra and don't cheap out on bushes use the toyota oem stuff a poor man pays twice same goes for any nuts and bolts you replace spend the extra and get oem toyota and put some anti seize grease on them, but just be careful using torque specs with anti seize
I have had pretty good success with wd40 usually best if soaked over a week. Have tried some of the others. And found they are all about the same.
Have a different bottle jack than standard due to the larger tyres. But yes that could work well.
I usually use Toyota parts. Sometimes others.
Sometimes I can’t afford the Toyota ones.
Thanks for the tip on never seize and touque settings.
Hmmm spanner skills level 5 I think. Looks dangerous to me 🤔