BENCH BLEED clutch master cylinder and REPLACE
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- Опубліковано 6 вер 2024
- Learn how to BENCH bleed your clutch (or brake) master cylinder and replace. This process can be applied also to a brake master cylinder and many vehicle outside of the Honda & Acura family!
Tool List:
10mm socket
Deep 12mm socket
3 inch socket extension
pliers or pick to remove cotter pin
Dot 3 brake fluid
3/16" x "X length" cotter pins
Funnel
10mm flair nut wrench
3/8" outer diameter clear hose (test fit in store if able)
Optional: vise to hold master cylinder while bench bleeding
Music:
I Don't See the Branches, I See the Leaves by Chris Zabriskie is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution license (creativecommon...)
Source: chriszabriskie....
Artist: chriszabriskie....
Disclaimer:
Due to factors beyond the control of Engineered Mojo, I cannot guarantee against improper use or unauthorized modifications of this information. Engineered Mojo assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Use this information at your own risk. Engineered Mojo recommends safe practices when working on vehicles and or with tools seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of Engineered Mojo, no information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage, or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or from the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not Engineered Mojo.
If you like the video please like and subscribe! Looking to scrounge up subscribers to spread helpful advice to and also gain some knowledge from them! Enjoy learning from my videos as much as I try to pass knowledge :)
doing this on an RX8 (similar master cylinder style) and your instructions, tool suggestions and methods are clear and precise. Thank You :)
Awesome to hear this method could apply to an RX8! Glad the video was clear and could be of service. Nice car by the way!
Same 😂😅
Clearest motor mechanics instruction I've ever seen.
Appreciate the feedback! Hope the video was helpful for you
@@EngineeredMojo It was.. Though I was looking for slave cylinder on a BMW 316i, a model which I think was not available in USA.
@@upton_ogood sounds like an interesting car to work on
About to attempt this in my 06 RSX. Thanks for the video. One of the best ones I have seen for my RSX. 🤙🏻
Hope the bleed process goes well!!
@@EngineeredMojo thanks! A big learning experience. Had to replace the master and slave, and had trouble bleeding it in the beginning, but finally got it in the end!
Man I hadnt even checked my pedal yet AND I MUST THANK YOU for taking time out of your day to share these steps!!!!!⚡️⚡️⚡️
Haha glad to be of service! Hope you're on your way to a fixed car
@@EngineeredMojo Thanks Again! just wanted to mention (o yea your technique gave me my pedal back) Its the T.O.Bearing/Pressure plate which also gives a Stiff Pedal! 🙏🏽salute Im tired of getting ROBBED out here man!!!
@@MEGADEEZOO oh yea, it's always good to save some money :)
@@EngineeredMojo Since I replaced my clutch flywheel pressure plate and to bearing I’m getting a real stiff engagement shifting and a hard grind trying to reverse. Bled the system twice second time power bled I’m trying to get this done before I break my trans. Having doubts not sure if it’s on its way out but wasn’t engaging this hard before replacing the clutch. Y’all got any idea what it could be? Please help
Compared to others your video is not only clear to view but easy to follow as well. Thanks
Thanks for the feedback. Glad you felt info was presented well!
Great job on this video! I really appreciate your attention to detail and making it so easy to follow with step by step directions, good camera shots, and including a detailed description of all the tools needed. I've looked at other videos on this topic and this is the best by far. Thanks for your commitment to excellence. I appreciate the chill music too.
Thanks for the thorough feedback! I really appreciate learning what works in the video presentation. I try to take what I want to see in a tutorial and add what folks appreciate overall to find a sweet spot to make an efficient length of video. Thanks again and hope this install went well for you
@@EngineeredMojo , Thanks again, I was able to switch out the master cylinder, the slave cylinder and also bleed the system by watching two of your videos. The details in the video and the step by step instructions are what made it possible, thank you for being so thorough and including all the details. Now my car is working again great and I'm able to go back to work, thank you!
Changed my cylinder a while back and never had the same feel. Trying this, thanks!
I had the same issue as well first time I changed my slave cylinder and then again when I changed the master cylinder. Finally found a consistent way to bleed hydraulic lines and am glad to share!
So clear makes me not wanna make a video of my own
Your video clip started out with you walking. I had to check and see if you were working on a Ford.
Lmao
Good info, just be sure to clean the reservoir of any left over black residue. This will ensure the seals inside the slave and master last longer
This is a great tip! Thanks
Nice video! My client's own had a similar issue so I bleed the clutch and still to no avail. I've even replaced only the kit inside the upper clutch but the problem of a sponge clutch and no gear still persist.
I've checked scrutingly for signs of leakage carefully while someone and found out that the down clutch nipple doesn't hold clutch hydraulic fluid! It goes out gently, and also the clutch fluid was replaced with a new one. Nevertheless, it's still very darkened in color. Please, how do I fix the issues?
Darkened fluid, soft clutch pedal, and a most especially the leak at the down clutch bleeder or nipple.
Hello sir wow thanks for making this video on how to self bleed a master clutch cylinder, I made the mistake of removing and replacing mine, and thinking I can just self bleed It in the car unfortunately I have a dead peddle. so this video definitely help me out as far as the how to self bench bleed. I will do this tomorrow thanks man.
No problem, glad the video was useful for you! It would be really convenient to be able to bleed the master cylinder while its installed haha
Great video. Nice detail. Wish you showed the bleeding process from the slave assembly.
You are in luck! I made that exact video:
ua-cam.com/video/mFVUQVsj4pM/v-deo.html
Very well detailed video! Thanks boss! Very easy to understand. I like the way you bench bleed that system
Appreciate the feedback and glad the video was clear and useful for you!
air bubbles never stoppeed but drives good
May have been air infiltrating from around the hose connection. Hopefully should be and you are all good, especially if it drives well. You'd notice air in the lines for sure
I've done gravitational bleed outs on brakes before just open the cap on the master make sure its filled then open the bleeder valve up and let it slowly seep out .. not sure if this would work on a clutch master cylinder or not but will find out as I'm replacing it on my 1997 Toyo Tercel 5 speed
It has nearly 190k and doesn't burn oil yet but this car has outlasted my left knee joint and nearly outlasted me lasted me this past august due to some serious health issues.. after having it for TEN Years will be selling it off in the near future replacing it with a 2004 Toyo Corolla with auto transmission hope this car is as good as the Tercel was to me
Can't go wrong with getting another Toyota, those vehicles last a good while. I have a Tacoma that has over 300,000 miles and still sounds better than some new cars fresh off the lot. Doesn't hurt to try the gravity bleed method, may be possible but I don't have personal experience using it on a clutch cylinder. Good luck and if you remember, let me know how it goes! Thanks for leaving a thoughtful comment
Thank you so much, this was very helpful!
Glad it helped!
Question, my friction plate wont disengage when pedal is fully depressed. Flywheel, friction plate, pressure plate and concentric slave + bearring are replaced 2 months ago and have done 2500miles with them without any problem. The problem started occuring when a friend of mine launched my car from a standstill and wanted to shift to 2nd. I've checked the shifting mechanism, bleeded but none worked. In first gear with clutch pedal depressed to the floor and accelerating the car creeps forward when close to redline. The slave cylinder moves out instantly when I'm depressing the clutch pedal, also it doesn't slip
What i did notice is the level in the clutch resevoir is decreasing when the pedal is depressed and raises again when releasing (no leaks under the car or at the pedal)
Great video, Thank-you; my clutch pedal stays down. How do I determine which to change- master cylinder or slave master? No visible leak inside or outside of car, also clutch reservoir is full. 2006 Acura Tsx
In that situation, I'd do a visible inspection of the slave cylinder. I'd remove the dust cover boot and verify it was operational and no leaks inside the boot
Finally fixed my clutch .. Thanks for the video 👌🏻👌🏻👏🏻
Thanks for giving an update! Glad this video was helpful
What was your problem khan209i?
@@RattygamingTV Fluid leak from CMC O-ring
this trick it did not work out for me I end up calling off of work and everything because I couldn't get the clutch to bleed I have no ride to work
Thanks bro!!
No problem, hope the video was helpful 😀
What’s the link or part number for the new part? Or what car are you working on?
I am working on a 1995 Honda Civic EG Sedan in the video
Fantastic video! Very easy to see everything and very clear instructions!
Awesome glad the video was informative for you and appreciate you taking the time to comment and provide feedback!
Bro this vid is awesome, thx and keep em coming. Can u do one on bent valves
Glad you found some good value in this video and appreciate you taking the time to comment! I have some additional videos on the way; I'll have to add bent valves to the mix as I've run across that a few times
@@EngineeredMojo my thing is my timing jump the other day, I changed the belt, waterpump, pulley and tensioner. And also changed the plugs and plug wires. But one of my cylinders still isn't firing. And it sounds like I have a vacuum leak, but can not find it. I've checked and tripled checked. So it has to be a bent valve lol. My car is a 06 Chevy aveo.
@@dirtyred246 have you done a compression test on that cylinder and/or a leak down test (assuming you have access to compressed air)? I'd try a compression test since its relatively simple and will at least tell you if there is a compression problem in the cylinder which can be investigated further
@@EngineeredMojo no I haven't done one yet, have to figure out how first lol.
@@dirtyred246 haha I hear you, compression test is a simple check. Just need a compression tester (~$20-$30 online, prob similar in stores) and the ability to turn the crank which you've definitely mastered if you changed a timing belt
what the name of this master cylinder
Believe it was a carquest brand, which has now been bought out by Advance Auto
When your done bleeding the master cylinder in the workbench. When you remove the plastic clear hose will it poor o out fluid and if so wasnt it quite messy when installing it. The step skipped after the workbench to it being already installed.
Also thank you for your videos i watched the slave cylinder one aswell!
Glad you've seen a few videos haha. And it's not messy at all actually. I keep all the bleed hoses on while bolting the master cylinder to the car and take them off one at a time as I'm reinstalling each hardline back into the master cylinder. I place a small cloth under the master cylinder to catch any drops as the clear hoses are removed, but very little comes out. Hope that was clear and thanks for asking the question!
Engineered Mojo thank you bro i understand now. Ill be doing this and my slave cylinder. Should this be done first before the slave cylinder and then as shown in your slave cylinder video i can resume bleeding from the slave cylinder after installing the master cylinder. Lol half this paragraph is slave master cylinder lol
@@alexanderbarrera9140 haha no problem. Yes, I would complete the master cylinder install first only because it's a bit more effort. Then proceed to swapping the slave. Makes no real difference though given you are changing both and bleeding system. Only important part is to bench bleed the master cylinder to save yourself some hassle. Not fun trying to get rid of air in the master cylinder if installed on the car.
Do you have to bleed your brakes after a clutch master cylinder install?
Not at all; two different/separate hydraulic lines
Not at all; two different/separate hydraulic lines. Good question
wish i knew this before installing my master cylinder and wasting my whole day trying to bleed it
Hopefully bench bleeding goes fast for you to make up some time!
@@EngineeredMojo i was hoping for that. i bled the whole system by bench bleeding it and when i installed it the rubber boot bursted and this is the third one that’s done that
Very well detailed thank you it helped me a lot cheers🍻👍🙂
Glad the video had enough detail and thanks for taking the time to provide feedback!
On my civic I replaced the master and slave cylinder and had bled it, and had pressure for about 7 pumps then the pedal began to fall to the floor and now when I push the pedal there’s like a hissing air sound coming from the master cylinder as it just sucks back to the ground
Did you bench bleed the master cylinder or did you try to bleed it while installed on the car?
Engineered Mojo yeah I had bled it before but accidentally used the wrong fluid then got the correct fluid ran through the line and everything and bled it again. I’ll post a video of what the pedal does and the sound it makes
Just posted the video if you wanna see for yourself
@@theighthokage2943 hey I just watched it, yea you still have air intrusion in the line. I'd try rebleeding from the slave cylinder. Since you initially had preasure, it doesnt sound like a leak anywhere. By bleeding again you'll be able to tell quickly how much air is still in the line
Engineered Mojo how many cycles do you think it’d take, when I bleed through the slave cylinder I go till I have to top off the reservoir 3 times and I won’t see any bubbles in the hose
Goodjob mate:-)
Thanks! Appreciate the feedback on the video
why did u removed the master clutch?
My master cylinder had failed so it was being replaced. It is magnitudes more effective to bleed a master cylinder out of the car than installed on the car as well. Good question!
Thank you sir
No problem, thank you for taking the time to leave a comment! Hope the video serves you well
fuck me i never did this. is this why i cant get my clutch to be bled. pedal stays soft
edit: turned out i needed a pressure bleeder. that did it instantly
Good video 👌🏻
Thanks for sharing the feedback!
I'm white guy 2.25% Nigerian but pretty sure they coulda named it something different than master/slave cylinder. Uhhh maybe major/minor cylinder.. Big/little cylinder.. Pedal/transmission? Primary, secondary.. lol
Haha, yea one of those items where a PR department would have helped way back in the day
Jeepers.. you have so much room you could remove it with your feet… most of them are not this easy to access
Haha, thats true. 90 era Hondas have a lot of room in the engine bay for sure
Clean the bloody reservoir dude.
@joekresan8990 I went back and cleaned it after editing the video, in the midst of the repair I didn't even notice haha. Looks great now, thanks for the tip