Joe… a fantastic video. As you mentioned, the type of correction will vary with the type of written document being produced. For a “working draft” of a book, manuscript, article, etc, typing with extra line spacing works well. This allows the author to type without interruption…. going back after the piece is finished to make “strike-throughs”, corrections (and or changes) with a pen (using the space between lines for new or corrected words). Of course, this wouldn’t work for a finished draft or for correspondence, but it is an effective method when looks don’t count! Keep typing and keep up the great work!
Regarding type that is loaded up with ink, darkening the interior parts of characters, there's an easy bit of maintenance that can prevent this. Back in the mid 1960s, my grandfather gave me a Royal model 10 to learn to type on. It needed some cleaning, and my dad gave me a thing labeled "type cleaner", which looked like a wad of gray putty. He showed me how to press it into the type slugs, and when you pulled it back off, the ink within the crevices of the type would stick to the putty, cleaning the slugs. The putty could then be stretched and folded and kneaded so that the surface was clean again. This was meant to be used at the end of each typing session, so that the ink would not build up in the type. And it worked! I looked for some of this stuff to keep my current machines typing well, but found nothing being sold today as type cleaner. Oh well. BUT, I remembered something I was told years later in a drawing class in college: for erasing charcoal on paper, there is a thing called "kneaded eraser" that looked, smelled, and behaved the same way, and yes, it turned out to also work on typewriters just as I remembered. Look for it on Amazon, or wherever drawing supplies are sold. For type that has had ink dried into it for decades, this won't work miracles, but once you wet the type with alcohol, this will turn it shiny as new, and when used on a weekly basis, will keep it that way.
I had not seen your videos in ages on here. And yet here it is I have a sudden desire to start writing again and BAM! A new typewriter video :0 The universe is a funny thing isn't it?
I was kinda suprised to see you make another video about corrections, but I did enjoyed it! I've watched your previous videos 2 or 3 times already, because - as much as I know - you're the only one who makes videos about typewriters frequently enough that cover most things regarding these machines (not just repairs). Personally I still like to experiment with different solutions. For instance, japanese stationeries have colored correction tapes like the "Cream Tape" from Plus Corp. that combined with Rollbahn notebooks which have a cream colored paper seem to work perfectly. Or using a black marker with a stuby nib(used for calligraphy) to cover up the mistakes and giving the page a secret document kinda vibe. Thank you for another great video!
I tend to strike through words if they're atrocious - otherwise I tend to look at my typos in correspondence as akin to my handwriting style in type. If I need a perfect doc I'll OCR the type and then edit and print electronically.
Thought-provoking video. I loved it! I overstrike my faint letters, the "a" that is low, and any uppercase letter that is too "upper." Sometimes overstriking works for a over s, e over o, b or p or d over o, l over i, k over h, etc. I used to erase my errors on any type of paper, and it worked pretty well with one of my eraser pens, but not the two others. Might have been that the good eraser was newer. I stopped erasing because it was making too many eraser crumbs inside the machine and on my desk! Then I x-ed out, but it seemed ugly, so I decided to use cover-up tape, and I still do, but only for full words. I mostly use Type X now. I also often read back what I type and fix missed errors in pen, hand written. I use a wavy symbol for two transposed letters. But after viewing this, I will try x-ing out my words once more and see how it goes. That is, when I am not on the Correcting Selectric 3... Thanks for your all your work. Daniel
Another great and thought provoking video. When I'm using white paper I use Tipp-Ex sheets (these only cover the letter in white) but of course I have bought all kinds of paper. Really great quality stuff, or cheap and thin. Off white and yellow and pearlescent. In those cases I can't bring myself to leave any mistakes and so end up retyping. Thankfully I have taken great care to begin with when typing on those sheets it hasn't happened too often. But you are right in that it depends who is receiving it and if I'm sending to a type pal I want it to look good.
I have been using correction fluid. Instead of painting the liquid on I dab just enough on to mask what the mistake was. It does however interrupt the flow of typing.
I have dyslexia so there is a lot of corrections done in my writing. That being said I feel as if there is a very beautiful and human element to corrections and looking at a page that someone has worked on. If I saw a page that was typed on a computer with a courier font and printed it still wouldn't have the look and feel of a type writen page because of the quality, time and effort that goes into making those corrections. Perfect doesn't exit and I refuse to give up on my pursuit of creative passions in writing because someone says I'm too stupid to write a good book. I've published 13 books in fantasy, sci-fi and LGBT romance.
Well, much of this just goes away if I avoid colored or patterned paper, so that's my first defense. After that, I still have the choices of using correcting tape or correcting pen(i.e., "wite-out" in a fine-point paint pen). I'm still experimenting with both of these. I have not even been able to find sources for type correction tabs, as these haven't been manufactured in many years. There are ribbons being sold today that are black and white, where the white is basically cover-up tabs that have been incorporated into what is usually the red side of the ribbon. These are much more expensive than regular ribbons, though, and one of the typewriters I've bought actually came with one of these. And maybe this was due to the age of the ribbon, but it really didn't work well. It didn't cover well, and as you mention, it's useless for those misaligned characters unless you can duplicate the misalignment, which is a frustrating experience at best. All of this is really about letters, since in the case of drafts, I only care about readability, so strikeovers if I can get away with it, or just leaving the error as-is. Thanks for another very well thought-out video, Joe.
Joe, thank you for such amazing channel, I just bought my first typewriter on e-bay and the algorithm/cookies referred me to your channel, the sudden, you appeared in my UA-cam as a suggestion, I didn't hesitate to click on your videos right away, I got hooked and now I can't stop watching! In regards to the video, I have a couple of the correction pencil you showed in the video, but not the erasable typing paper, I guess I could give it a try and search for it online. Any suggestions where to get it?
Not sure if I missed it in the vid: The razorblade to correct typos. It works very good with paper thicker then that cheap laser printer paper. Thicker paper even with default weight of paper (Europeans say 80 g/m2) might be suitable for erasing mechanically. With a razorblade or a scalpel you can scratch the ink from the paper leaving enough paper to retype the letter(s). Thank you for your nice videos.
Excellent video! I recently bought a Tipp-Ex "Shake'n Squeeze" cover up pen, because my last correction paper has been used. Although the pen has a metal tip that should (in theory) allow corrections with precision, it is just a mess. It takes ages to dry and sometimes leaves white specks on your typewriter and the type slugs. I wish they would still manufacture correction papers. It is not a perfect method, but the best I have tried so far. Adding two correction methods that haven't been mentioned: 1. A missing letter could be squeezed in with the half-space function. Not pretty in most instances. 2. Use a typewriter with a correction tape feature (IBM Selectrics, ...). Haven't used one, but I assume they should work pretty well in combination with the correctable carbon tapes.
Typically if it’s just fixing a small mistake but one that can’t be over typed, I will use a small diamond file to physically remove the miss- typed letter. It works pretty well and is not very noticeable once retyped.
Actually the very first kind of writing was a hybrid mechanical/manual process, pressing a stylus into soft clay to produce what we now call Cuneiform. There was very little opportunity using this process to reveal personal style. Handwritten text, when it was the primary form of written communication was also somewhat standardized to promote legibility. In my humble opinion, typos are indications that you are trying to type too fast or carelessly. I think they're only acceptable in documents for your own personal use, such as a first draft, or for transmitting information very quickly, as with a teletype, where strikethough became standard. Liquid Paper would help in those situations where correction tabs wouldn't work and is/was sold in a variety of colors to more closely match different papers. The whole point of mechanically produced writing is to standardize the presentation and it really should be as error-free as possible. Personal style is still presented in word choice and writing style in the choice of overall tone.
Using computers all this time, we have forgotten the process of preparing documents on a typewriter back in the day. It's not just sitting at the machine and correcting and revising until you are done. When you're thinking about what to say, that's a first draft, and as long as you know what you meant, it can be a mess. I usually ended up marking up my first draft with pen and handwritten revisions that nobody else could figure out. Then I would revise and retype, more drafts depending on how important the document is. And for typing final copy, part of learning to type is learning how fast you can type with very few errors. So a normal paper for school I would type pretty fast but use correction tape. But if I was making carbon copies or something else where corrections don't work, I would slow down to avoid errors as much as possible. (Professional secretaries who had to make stencil masters were super accurate because those were hard to correct!) It took me years to get used to using a computer and I had to print out and mark up drafts at first until I learned how to slow down and revise on the screen. What is satisfying about a typewriter is that it is a good tool for all these phases. For a draft, it is physical and immediate and makes you move forward. For a final draft, because of its physical limitations and the conventions about what typed documents should look like, there are a lot of decisions you don't have to make about formatting your document that a WYSIWYG word processor requires. You just take your draft and put the words where they are supposed to go. I think my writing was better when I made a few passes through the document, retyping every character.
I’m curious what you think the best options for a typewriter for a a casual traveling writer would be, I’m looking for a classic one that’s as small as possible to take on vacations
Generally, larger machines work better than smaller. However, the condition of the individual machine matters too. If you are traveling by car, get a medium sized portable like a Smith-Corona 5 series (Silent, Silent-Super), Hermes or Olympia. For small machines I like the Olympia Splendid 33 or 66, or the Royal Mercury.
@@Joe_VanCleave thank you very much sir!! I agree bigger is better for feel and ability to tinker on but for me and a lot of other people portability is necessary haha
I refuse to use any cover up options. I am on the relaxed end of the typo spectrum I suspect. All typos I make (or perhaps, notice), are addressed in a case by case basis. Most often, I do nothing about it, particularly if the meaning is still perfectly clear. Next most likely is backspace and retype a single letter over the wrong one. Up from there is x over the offender and type the right letter directly after. If I have more than one typo in a word, or a tragic misspelling that makes my look like a complete idiot (more so than usual!), I might X the whole word. That is pretty rare. Sometimes I type a mistake and change what I am going to say, just so the typo is not a typo any more. It is then that I suspect the typewriter is doing the writing, and not me! And of course, there are some typos that need the most drastic of responses. Things like addressing envelopes, or type samples for eBay ads, where really there is a zero tolerance for typos. In this case, you have to simply start all over again. Yes it takes longer, but perfection has a price of time mostly. You need to go slowly and concentrate hard - which is something most people don't enjoy too much, myself included. A funny example of a typo that my wife did on an email that she luckily caught just before hitting send. She was typing "kind regards" but the G got swapped for a T! Yikes. I think actually there is a whole other class of typos now in the modern word - the dreaded autocorrect. When you are typing an SMS or text message and press send, only to see it send something very different to what you had in mind. This is not just a single letter messed up, but whole words, so I think it is often worse as meaning is damaged. Some typewriters induce more typos from me than others. So one other tip is to find a machine that you are comfortable with that just seems to work for you. There might be all sorts of things at play, like the rake of the keybed, the spacing, the layout, the keytops size and shape, the way the typebars return, the speed of the shift etc, etc. Some typewriters too seem better at "keeping up" with the typist. I have found most older Imperial machines are good at that, like the Good Companions. I love both my Erika 5 and Smith-Corona 5 series for a relatively low typo experience. On the PC I use an IBM Model M computer keyboard - the best there is IMHO. It is a great topic overall, a lot to say about it, and a lot of it quite subtle to the experience but oh so important to how it all feels.
I just got a 1934 Royal KHM I've tried to find videos on this forgotten middle brother of the 10 and KMM but very few exist maybe you could find and do review. Ps. awesome content.
I don't even know. I feel like i use several different methods and barely think about it. I use a white paint marker (acrylic) instead of Tipp-Ex or White-out. It's much easier and works well enough. :)
Very good thoughts on corrections...I feel so sorry for ultra-perfectionist that will type whole pages over and over until it looks perfect! What a waste of time.
They’ve stopped teaching kids cursive writing in schools.. I received a letter from the courts, hand written envelope, it looked like it was written by an infant.
Hello Joe! Yesterday I got a Groma kolibri and cleaned it and it looks very nice but the carriage is stuck to the left and I don't know what to do. Is there a way I can reach you by email and maybe send you some pictures? I was so proud of it. Now it's just stuck. I can't even get it back in the case. Please help. Can we correspond via email?
Joe… a fantastic video.
As you mentioned, the type of correction will vary with the type of written document being produced.
For a “working draft” of a book, manuscript, article, etc, typing with extra line spacing works well. This allows the author to type without interruption…. going back after the piece is finished to make “strike-throughs”, corrections (and or changes) with a pen (using the space between lines for new or corrected words).
Of course, this wouldn’t work for a finished draft or for correspondence, but it is an effective method when looks don’t count!
Keep typing and keep up the great work!
Regarding type that is loaded up with ink, darkening the interior parts of characters, there's an easy bit of maintenance that can prevent this.
Back in the mid 1960s, my grandfather gave me a Royal model 10 to learn to type on. It needed some cleaning, and my dad gave me a thing labeled "type cleaner", which looked like a wad of gray putty. He showed me how to press it into the type slugs, and when you pulled it back off, the ink within the crevices of the type would stick to the putty, cleaning the slugs. The putty could then be stretched and folded and kneaded so that the surface was clean again. This was meant to be used at the end of each typing session, so that the ink would not build up in the type.
And it worked! I looked for some of this stuff to keep my current machines typing well, but found nothing being sold today as type cleaner. Oh well.
BUT, I remembered something I was told years later in a drawing class in college: for erasing charcoal on paper, there is a thing called "kneaded eraser" that looked, smelled, and behaved the same way, and yes, it turned out to also work on typewriters just as I remembered. Look for it on Amazon, or wherever drawing supplies are sold.
For type that has had ink dried into it for decades, this won't work miracles, but once you wet the type with alcohol, this will turn it shiny as new, and when used on a weekly basis, will keep it that way.
I had not seen your videos in ages on here. And yet here it is I have a sudden desire to start writing again and BAM! A new typewriter video :0
The universe is a funny thing isn't it?
I think you nailed this Joe. Thankyou for another fine video!
I was kinda suprised to see you make another video about corrections, but I did enjoyed it! I've watched your previous videos 2 or 3 times already, because - as much as I know - you're the only one who makes videos about typewriters frequently enough that cover most things regarding these machines (not just repairs). Personally I still like to experiment with different solutions. For instance, japanese stationeries have colored correction tapes like the "Cream Tape" from Plus Corp. that combined with Rollbahn notebooks which have a cream colored paper seem to work perfectly. Or using a black marker with a stuby nib(used for calligraphy) to cover up the mistakes and giving the page a secret document kinda vibe. Thank you for another great video!
I like that black marker idea!
I tend to strike through words if they're atrocious - otherwise I tend to look at my typos in correspondence as akin to my handwriting style in type. If I need a perfect doc I'll OCR the type and then edit and print electronically.
Not overthinking at all, sir. This was awesome!
Thought-provoking video. I loved it!
I overstrike my faint letters, the "a" that is low, and any uppercase letter that is too "upper." Sometimes overstriking works for a over s, e over o, b or p or d over o, l over i, k over h, etc.
I used to erase my errors on any type of paper, and it worked pretty well with one of my eraser pens, but not the two others. Might have been that the good eraser was newer. I stopped erasing because it was making too many eraser crumbs inside the machine and on my desk!
Then I x-ed out, but it seemed ugly, so I decided to use cover-up tape, and I still do, but only for full words. I mostly use Type X now.
I also often read back what I type and fix missed errors in pen, hand written. I use a wavy symbol for two transposed letters.
But after viewing this, I will try x-ing out my words once more and see how it goes. That is, when I am not on the Correcting Selectric 3... Thanks for your all your work.
Daniel
Joe when are you going to write a book about typewriters? I can’t wait to read it. 😀
@joe van cleave
very true
Another great and thought provoking video. When I'm using white paper I use Tipp-Ex sheets (these only cover the letter in white) but of course I have bought all kinds of paper. Really great quality stuff, or cheap and thin. Off white and yellow and pearlescent. In those cases I can't bring myself to leave any mistakes and so end up retyping. Thankfully I have taken great care to begin with when typing on those sheets it hasn't happened too often. But you are right in that it depends who is receiving it and if I'm sending to a type pal I want it to look good.
Nice! Thorough. Thanks.
I have been using correction fluid. Instead of painting the liquid on I dab just enough on to mask what the mistake was. It does however interrupt the flow of typing.
I have dyslexia so there is a lot of corrections done in my writing. That being said I feel as if there is a very beautiful and human element to corrections and looking at a page that someone has worked on. If I saw a page that was typed on a computer with a courier font and printed it still wouldn't have the look and feel of a type writen page because of the quality, time and effort that goes into making those corrections. Perfect doesn't exit and I refuse to give up on my pursuit of creative passions in writing because someone says I'm too stupid to write a good book. I've published 13 books in fantasy, sci-fi and LGBT romance.
Those are beautiful thoughts, thank you.
Well, much of this just goes away if I avoid colored or patterned paper, so that's my first defense. After that, I still have the choices of using correcting tape or correcting pen(i.e., "wite-out" in a fine-point paint pen). I'm still experimenting with both of these. I have not even been able to find sources for type correction tabs, as these haven't been manufactured in many years. There are ribbons being sold today that are black and white, where the white is basically cover-up tabs that have been incorporated into what is usually the red side of the ribbon. These are much more expensive than regular ribbons, though, and one of the typewriters I've bought actually came with one of these. And maybe this was due to the age of the ribbon, but it really didn't work well. It didn't cover well, and as you mention, it's useless for those misaligned characters unless you can duplicate the misalignment, which is a frustrating experience at best.
All of this is really about letters, since in the case of drafts, I only care about readability, so strikeovers if I can get away with it, or just leaving the error as-is.
Thanks for another very well thought-out video, Joe.
Nice office.
Nice t-shirt.
The typewriter is not floating in the air today.
We are tuned or tunned.
Joe, thank you for such amazing channel, I just bought my first typewriter on e-bay and the algorithm/cookies referred me to your channel, the sudden, you appeared in my UA-cam as a suggestion, I didn't hesitate to click on your videos right away, I got hooked and now I can't stop watching! In regards to the video, I have a couple of the correction pencil you showed in the video, but not the erasable typing paper, I guess I could give it a try and search for it online. Any suggestions where to get it?
Welcome to my channel! The erasable typing paper is “legacy” paper, I don’t think it’s made today, so look on places like Etsy and eBay.
Not sure if I missed it in the vid: The razorblade to correct typos.
It works very good with paper thicker then that cheap laser printer paper. Thicker paper even with default weight of paper (Europeans say 80 g/m2) might be suitable for erasing mechanically. With a razorblade or a scalpel you can scratch the ink from the paper leaving enough paper to retype the letter(s).
Thank you for your nice videos.
Excellent video! I recently bought a Tipp-Ex "Shake'n Squeeze" cover up pen, because my last correction paper has been used. Although the pen has a metal tip that should (in theory) allow corrections with precision, it is just a mess. It takes ages to dry and sometimes leaves white specks on your typewriter and the type slugs. I wish they would still manufacture correction papers. It is not a perfect method, but the best I have tried so far.
Adding two correction methods that haven't been mentioned:
1. A missing letter could be squeezed in with the half-space function. Not pretty in most instances.
2. Use a typewriter with a correction tape feature (IBM Selectrics, ...). Haven't used one, but I assume they should work pretty well in combination with the correctable carbon tapes.
I tried one of those pens, they’re a mess! I ran out of time to mention inserting missing letters, thank you!
Great video. What type of off-white paper is it you use?
Newsprint paper!
My Olivetti Lexikon 80 E has reduplicative typing on some keys. I usually just strike out the whole line with the letter x. Makes errors fun!
Hi Joe… link for the blogger you mentioned in the final part of these useful video, please… thxs !
Here it is: theuntimelytypewriter.com
Excellent video.
@@Joe_VanCleave thank you ! Greetings from Portugal!
Does Portugal exist yet?
Typically if it’s just fixing a small mistake but one that can’t be over typed, I will use a small diamond file to physically remove the miss- typed letter. It works pretty well and is not very noticeable once retyped.
That’s interesting!
Actually the very first kind of writing was a hybrid mechanical/manual process, pressing a stylus into soft clay to produce what we now call Cuneiform. There was very little opportunity using this process to reveal personal style.
Handwritten text, when it was the primary form of written communication was also somewhat standardized to promote legibility.
In my humble opinion, typos are indications that you are trying to type too fast or carelessly.
I think they're only acceptable in documents for your own personal use, such as a first draft, or for transmitting information very quickly, as with a teletype, where strikethough became standard.
Liquid Paper would help in those situations where correction tabs wouldn't work and is/was sold in a variety of colors to more closely match different papers.
The whole point of mechanically produced writing is to standardize the presentation and it really should be as error-free as possible. Personal style is still presented in word choice and writing style in the choice of overall tone.
Using computers all this time, we have forgotten the process of preparing documents on a typewriter back in the day. It's not just sitting at the machine and correcting and revising until you are done. When you're thinking about what to say, that's a first draft, and as long as you know what you meant, it can be a mess. I usually ended up marking up my first draft with pen and handwritten revisions that nobody else could figure out. Then I would revise and retype, more drafts depending on how important the document is. And for typing final copy, part of learning to type is learning how fast you can type with very few errors. So a normal paper for school I would type pretty fast but use correction tape. But if I was making carbon copies or something else where corrections don't work, I would slow down to avoid errors as much as possible. (Professional secretaries who had to make stencil masters were super accurate because those were hard to correct!) It took me years to get used to using a computer and I had to print out and mark up drafts at first until I learned how to slow down and revise on the screen. What is satisfying about a typewriter is that it is a good tool for all these phases. For a draft, it is physical and immediate and makes you move forward. For a final draft, because of its physical limitations and the conventions about what typed documents should look like, there are a lot of decisions you don't have to make about formatting your document that a WYSIWYG word processor requires. You just take your draft and put the words where they are supposed to go. I think my writing was better when I made a few passes through the document, retyping every character.
Great points!
I’m curious what you think the best options for a typewriter for a a casual traveling writer would be, I’m looking for a classic one that’s as small as possible to take on vacations
Generally, larger machines work better than smaller. However, the condition of the individual machine matters too. If you are traveling by car, get a medium sized portable like a Smith-Corona 5 series (Silent, Silent-Super), Hermes or Olympia. For small machines I like the Olympia Splendid 33 or 66, or the Royal Mercury.
@@Joe_VanCleave thank you very much sir!! I agree bigger is better for feel and ability to tinker on but for me and a lot of other people portability is necessary haha
I refuse to use any cover up options. I am on the relaxed end of the typo spectrum I suspect. All typos I make (or perhaps, notice), are addressed in a case by case basis. Most often, I do nothing about it, particularly if the meaning is still perfectly clear. Next most likely is backspace and retype a single letter over the wrong one. Up from there is x over the offender and type the right letter directly after. If I have more than one typo in a word, or a tragic misspelling that makes my look like a complete idiot (more so than usual!), I might X the whole word. That is pretty rare.
Sometimes I type a mistake and change what I am going to say, just so the typo is not a typo any more. It is then that I suspect the typewriter is doing the writing, and not me!
And of course, there are some typos that need the most drastic of responses. Things like addressing envelopes, or type samples for eBay ads, where really there is a zero tolerance for typos. In this case, you have to simply start all over again. Yes it takes longer, but perfection has a price of time mostly. You need to go slowly and concentrate hard - which is something most people don't enjoy too much, myself included.
A funny example of a typo that my wife did on an email that she luckily caught just before hitting send. She was typing "kind regards" but the G got swapped for a T! Yikes.
I think actually there is a whole other class of typos now in the modern word - the dreaded autocorrect. When you are typing an SMS or text message and press send, only to see it send something very different to what you had in mind. This is not just a single letter messed up, but whole words, so I think it is often worse as meaning is damaged.
Some typewriters induce more typos from me than others. So one other tip is to find a machine that you are comfortable with that just seems to work for you. There might be all sorts of things at play, like the rake of the keybed, the spacing, the layout, the keytops size and shape, the way the typebars return, the speed of the shift etc, etc. Some typewriters too seem better at "keeping up" with the typist. I have found most older Imperial machines are good at that, like the Good Companions. I love both my Erika 5 and Smith-Corona 5 series for a relatively low typo experience. On the PC I use an IBM Model M computer keyboard - the best there is IMHO. It is a great topic overall, a lot to say about it, and a lot of it quite subtle to the experience but oh so important to how it all feels.
Or as an old radio character used to call it a typogiraffical error!
I just got a 1934 Royal KHM I've tried to find videos on this forgotten middle brother of the 10 and KMM but very few exist maybe you could find and do review.
Ps. awesome content.
Using a scalpel, and if the paper is thick enough, I’ve scratched out the erroneous character(s).
I don't even know. I feel like i use several different methods and barely think about it. I use a white paint marker (acrylic) instead of Tipp-Ex or White-out. It's much easier and works well enough. :)
Very good thoughts on corrections...I feel so sorry for ultra-perfectionist that will type whole pages over and over until it looks perfect! What a waste of time.
They’ve stopped teaching kids cursive writing in schools.. I received a letter from the courts, hand written envelope, it looked like it was written by an infant.
This also makes typewriters with script typefaces pretty much obsolete, since they don't teach kids how to READ cursive, either!
Hello Joe! Yesterday I got a Groma kolibri and cleaned it and it looks very nice but the carriage is stuck to the left and I don't know what to do. Is there a way I can reach you by email and maybe send you some pictures?
I was so proud of it. Now it's just stuck. I can't even get it back in the case. Please help. Can we correspond via email?
Jvcabacus@yahoo.com