Glad to see you are back up and healthy. It took me 15 years to restore mine with original parts and I did it exactly as it was done in San jose. The sloppiness that ford had on the assembly line in those days can be replicated and it makes all of the difference. Good luck.
Well, this isn’t a concourse restoration, more of a performance restoration, keep the spirit of the car completely intact but make improvements where they can be made without sacrificing the spirit or essence of the car.
Sorry to hear about all your troubles. I hope all on the right track now. I'm waiting to see the video on torque box connectors and stiffening that you are doing to your car. Great videos!
I’ve put the torque boxes and subframe connectors on hold while I address getting the car further along. This project has taken far more time than planned, but doing it well is more important than doing it quickly.
Dude. 60 over. I felt that in MY gut. Thanks posting an update! I’m looking forward to seeing your build progress this fall/winter. My 65 is getting an entirely new drivetrain once the weather turns. She’s really, really tired. I’m really looking forward to the work.
It was a standard block with no taper, it would have cleaned up with a power hone and could have stayed standard. So yeah, I was pissed. A standard bore Mexican 302 in that condition is a $1000+ these days. The standard bore spare block I bought is not usable as a standard bore block. It has to go +.020 or +.030 oversize and I gladly gave $600 for it as a spare.
As I said in the video, I did source another block. The one reason I’m not concerned with the sleeves is because it’s a Mexican 302, they did not cut into the water jackets to install the sleeves, that’s not something you can do with Windsor and Cleveland foundry blocks, the cylinders are so thin on the US and Canadian made blocks that to install a 4.190” OD sleeve you have to cut all the way into the water jacket.
Looking forward to the open tracker suspension upgrade Got a 72 fastback running a 460 that’s a street strip car and was really eyeing the diy roller kits
I’m not running a full roller suspension, it’s not entirely necessary. Your biggest challenge will be the weight of the 460 on the nose of the car, getting the right spring rate and ride height to provide a good balance of ride quality and suspension control, and then getting the suspension to follow the correct travel and suspension angles for your usage.
The only part that isn’t available are the original spec Eibach ‘67-70 Big Block rate springs. The updated versions of the Eibach spring range have about 10-15% lower active spring rates but will be excellent though for anything short of a track focused setup.
Did the machine shop leave a step in the bottom of the cylinder to set the sleeve on. The step traps the sleeve between the cylinder block and the head. If you don't trap the sleeve, it could slide out the bottom of the cylinder. Now you can start with a standard bore.
So, on a SBF, there is always a step on the main web side of the bore. The sleeve can not slip down ever. With that said, if is a full length sleeve. They are also ductile so they should wear much better than the stock Mexican 302 iron alloy. Sadly, the pistons are only available in .030”, and .040” off the shelf and the assembly was already balanced, so They took my block the long way to 4.030”. It sucks in a way, but it is what it is.
The original block was severely damaged by overheating when the car was equipped with a dealer installed air conditioning system. Fortunately the heads were not damaged and are original to this car. Yeah, I waited six months to mention the problems we had with the outsourced work, I was way beyond pissed.
@@TheGT350Garage You know if you still have the main caps off the Mexican block 302 you can source a 289 block install the the main caps line bore it and other than some screw in plugs you have a Hippo. I run a a 68 Mexican block and have another one with one bad bore cause by a rotten SOB that didn't do the machine work on a set of early 289 small chamber heads correct and dropped a valve destroyed a $8000 289 build. I can feel your pain guy.
I still have the Mexican 302 block, it has 8 ductile iron sleeves (they wear better anyway) and it’s ready to go. If the block fails, the caps will go to a spare standard bore, 289 block that has the correct part number and date codes for my car and I’ll use them to create a HiPo clone block.
Hi I have a 65 mustang and i want to know where i can buy a thermostat for my car part # 2101700aooo any suggestions. Thanks in advance, I'd appreciate your help
Start with my thermostat video to understand which opening temperature is best and which type of thermostat is better suited to these vintage engines. All the information you need is there. Early Mustang Cooling Systems Part 1: How Thermostats Work & How to Select the Type & Temperature! ua-cam.com/video/1fk7iPXsieo/v-deo.html
Glad to see you are back up and healthy. It took me 15 years to restore mine with original parts and I did it exactly as it was done in San jose. The sloppiness that ford had on the assembly line in those days can be replicated and it makes all of the difference. Good luck.
Well, this isn’t a concourse restoration, more of a performance restoration, keep the spirit of the car completely intact but make improvements where they can be made without sacrificing the spirit or essence of the car.
Sorry to hear about all your troubles. I hope all on the right track now. I'm waiting to see the video on torque box connectors and stiffening that you are doing to your car. Great videos!
I’ve put the torque boxes and subframe connectors on hold while I address getting the car further along. This project has taken far more time than planned, but doing it well is more important than doing it quickly.
Dude. 60 over. I felt that in MY gut.
Thanks posting an update! I’m looking forward to seeing your build progress this fall/winter.
My 65 is getting an entirely new drivetrain once the weather turns. She’s really, really tired. I’m really looking forward to the work.
Right?!? .060 over is a ton!
It was a standard block with no taper, it would have cleaned up with a power hone and could have stayed standard. So yeah, I was pissed. A standard bore Mexican 302 in that condition is a $1000+ these days. The standard bore spare block I bought is not usable as a standard bore block. It has to go +.020 or +.030 oversize and I gladly gave $600 for it as a spare.
Glad ya feel'n better God bless
I would never trust a sleeved block and would take the time to source another Mexican block. I look forward to watching your build.
As I said in the video, I did source another block. The one reason I’m not concerned with the sleeves is because it’s a Mexican 302, they did not cut into the water jackets to install the sleeves, that’s not something you can do with Windsor and Cleveland foundry blocks, the cylinders are so thin on the US and Canadian made blocks that to install a 4.190” OD sleeve you have to cut all the way into the water jacket.
Looking forward to the open tracker suspension upgrade
Got a 72 fastback running a 460 that’s a street strip car and was really eyeing the diy roller kits
I’m not running a full roller suspension, it’s not entirely necessary. Your biggest challenge will be the weight of the 460 on the nose of the car, getting the right spring rate and ride height to provide a good balance of ride quality and suspension control, and then getting the suspension to follow the correct travel and suspension angles for your usage.
Glad you are felling better. Will the suspension package be available for us as well? Is there going to be someone we can call to get the same set up?
The only part that isn’t available are the original spec Eibach ‘67-70 Big Block rate springs. The updated versions of the Eibach spring range have about 10-15% lower active spring rates but will be excellent though for anything short of a track focused setup.
@@TheGT350Garage thanks.
Did the machine shop leave a step in the bottom of the cylinder to set the sleeve on. The step traps the sleeve between the cylinder block and the head. If you don't trap the sleeve, it could slide out the bottom of the cylinder. Now you can start with a standard bore.
So, on a SBF, there is always a step on the main web side of the bore. The sleeve can not slip down ever. With that said, if is a full length sleeve. They are also ductile so they should wear much better than the stock Mexican 302 iron alloy.
Sadly, the pistons are only available in .030”, and .040” off the shelf and the assembly was already balanced, so They took my block the long way to 4.030”. It sucks in a way, but it is what it is.
OMG guy my hair would be on fire over the block. What happened to the original Hippo block?
The original block was severely damaged by overheating when the car was equipped with a dealer installed air conditioning system. Fortunately the heads were not damaged and are original to this car. Yeah, I waited six months to mention the problems we had with the outsourced work, I was way beyond pissed.
@@TheGT350Garage
You know if you still have the main caps off the Mexican block 302 you can source a 289 block install the the main caps line bore it and other than some screw in plugs you have a Hippo. I run a a 68 Mexican block and have another one with one bad bore cause by a rotten SOB that didn't do the machine work on a set of early 289 small chamber heads correct and dropped a valve destroyed a $8000 289 build.
I can feel your pain guy.
I still have the Mexican 302 block, it has 8 ductile iron sleeves (they wear better anyway) and it’s ready to go. If the block fails, the caps will go to a spare standard bore, 289 block that has the correct part number and date codes for my car and I’ll use them to create a HiPo clone block.
Hi I have a 65 mustang and i want to know where i can buy a thermostat for my car part # 2101700aooo any suggestions. Thanks in advance, I'd appreciate your help
Start with my thermostat video to understand which opening temperature is best and which type of thermostat is better suited to these vintage engines. All the information you need is there.
Early Mustang Cooling Systems Part 1: How Thermostats Work & How to Select the Type & Temperature!
ua-cam.com/video/1fk7iPXsieo/v-deo.html
What the actual f.....💩🔥💩