Відео

I’ll be doing a lot more content on this and a few other engines I’ve done in the upcoming couple of months, if you’d like to chat about your Cougar T/A tribute, shoot me an email TheGT350Garage@gmail.com because I’m very familiar with those cars, my first car having been a ‘67 XR-7 way back when that I did quite a lot with, and I can put you on to some great resources!

This is bad advice for a maximum effort engine. I put studs in a 289; dial bore gauge checked good before and after, but the crank didn’t turn as nice after. We barely kissed it with the align hone, not even taking enough to measure, but the crank went back in and spun real nice afterwards. I’m sure if I had taken the time to measure in about 100 places I could have probably measured the distortion, but it wasn’t exactly obvious.

@PeggyParrow a dial bore gauge will only tell you part of the story with the stud replacement. Because the load distribution changes with studs, the distortion in the main bores can be so slight the dial bore gauge can not detect it. The variation in the bore may be .00025” (which most machinists will write off because their dial bore gauges are t that accurate, it shows as little more than a needles width between marks on even the best Sunnen and Starrett dial bore gauges. The distortion does not occur in the same plane as adjacent bores and you end up with a stack of tolerances that are several degrees off of the next in the line bore. It only shows up later as edge wear in the bearings.

No, because the retainer is on a step recessed into the gauge, meaning it’s lower than the top or the gauge. You subtract the step from the total height, you don’t add to it.

Mexican blocks have “HECHO EN MEXICO” cast in the valley. Windsor blocks have a W and Cleveland Foundary is CF. More to it than that but those are the dead giveaways.

Absolutely, but if you were paying attention, the block has already been line honed with bolts and I don’t want to duplicate the process a second time for the minuscule benefit studs would offer.

Eh, studs are more expensive anyway 😂

Not really in the grand scheme of things. Even if they are double the price of bolts it’s only a small fraction of the cost of the engine build.

🤣 for real

Indeed, AFR does not address the steam holes, they should, but because most of their heads are used on later model blocks or race blocks with the newer steam hole location, it seems to be something they don’t consider important. You need to drill the holes the same size as the hole in the head gasket (about 3/16”) and you drill through the deck into the coolant passages around the cylinder. It’s an easy enough process, takes about half an hour, and does not affect the integrity of the engine block in any way. Do not drill the head. It’s not necessary to restrict oil on a SBF unless you suspect too much oil flow to the valvetrain. I don’t restrict the passages unless I’m running a maximum effort engine. Oil to the lifters and rockers is important to protect the lifters, pushrods, and rockers, it also cools the valve springs.

@@TheGT350Garage I did reinforce the fact that I amusing a 289 which is an older design compared to a modern 302, but they insisted nothing needs to be done with a steam hole. I'll add it as it is simple, might have to do it like you after machining as I don't have the heads yet and need to get the block into the machine shop before the busy winter work starts to pile up. Thanks for clarifying the oil restrictor.

@robertpanter6198 all you need is a head gasket to use as a template. Mark the steam hole with a sharpie, center punch the hole, drill with a sharp 3/16” drill bit. Go slow-ish, it takes about 3-4 minutes per hole, the deck is about 7/16” thick where you’re drilling. I don’t doubt that they said it’s not needed, but if that’s the case, why do they put the coolant passages in the head for a late model block. Makes no sense. I’ve drilled dozens of blocks, and I don’t have heating issues, so I keep doing what works.

@@TheGT350Garage Well, drilling steam holes was a fail for me. The second hole on the passenger side number 3 cylinder the drill bit wandered a bit high and even with a good drill at the right speed, quality bit, cutting oil and blowing out the hole as I went, the cast iron blew out into the lifter valley. What did I learn here? The tolerance is fairly close on half of the steam holes, which was not emphasized and drill bits don't make great precision holes. So is this an easy home project, I say no, leave it to the machine shop. Now have to see if the machine shop can weld up the hole in the lifter valley and bore (not drill) the steam holes with a milling machine to ensure precision. I can't add pictures here or I would. I hope I did not just ruin this block.

@robertpanter6198 the holes don’t have to be precise, the holes in a late model block are huge triangles 3/4” x 3/4” on the right angle, you’re drilling a 3/16” hole that mostly lines up. You’re going to be fine. You could use a 3/8” bit and it wouldn’t matter because the hole in the gasket would restrict the passage anyway. It doesn’t need to be nearly as precise as you’re thinking. Your engine will thank you and run cooler for it in the long term. Masking the engine and using magnets was the easiest way to manage the bits of iron, putting tape on the magnets or wrapping them in paper or putting them in a sandwich bag will keep the chips reigned in. You’ll be in good shape, don’t worry about a slight misalignment on the holes.

I tried, but a bankruptcy made storage impossible. I love the 289 and helped a friend get his into the 11’s in a 65 Mustang.

That will be covered in an upcoming video.

So, the valley girdle is actually of no use. If you watched the entire video I explained why I didn’t stud or girdle. It is getting a Moroso baffled/gated 9qt pan with a windage tray. Detailing the valley isn’t super critical on a mostly street engine, neither is painting the interior of the engine. I’ll be using a light acid solution before applying a red oxide primer and painting Ford Corporate Blue. Using an H-Beam and the stock Rod:Stroke ratio is right at 1.8:1 so there isn’t a need to go higher. Come back for the follow up videos and you’ll actually see me chase all the threads and cover a lot of the items you’ve mentioned.

Very worthwhile info. Thank you! (Note: Heavy breathing audible is a distraction) Gaps in audio also a negative.

@kensheffer9539 appreciate the feedback, I’m working with a new microphone and it’s taking a little getting used to and trying to figure out best placement.

And that is why this video was important for me to make. Thanks for watching, and I hope you’ll come back for the rest of the build!

Absolutely, you guarantee no burrs on the deck, and the cleaning process will remove any metal particles. My plans have changed a few times and three years ago when the machine work was supposed to begin, I was still planning to run early factory style iron heads.

What you’re talking about doing is usually accomplished with an offset wrist pin in the piston. The real reason is more about the thrust forces on the cylinder wall than the angle of force the piston applies to the crankshaft through the connecting rod. Moving the bores would effectively change the relationship to the cam, require moving the head to align over the piston, and simply is not something I’d ever recommend attempting.

@@TheGT350Garage On another UA-cam channel, there is a bottom-up view of something similar to a 4-inch bore with a typical cylinder head installed. Inline valves, 1.9 or 2 inches intake, and 1.6 inches exhaust. With no experience to judge, there appeared to be little room. I would be skittish around the offset center of pressure with offset wrist pins until I could see the cyclical stresses and pressures between peak torque and peak rpm. Where can I learn more about offset wrist pins?

@@TheGT350Garage The offset in Ford's flathead and new 3cyl makes me curious but I'm too ignorant to know better. I would also need to learn about the cam specs and setup changes.

Offset wrist pins are VERY common. Even Ford used them in production 302 engines. That’s why a lot of pistons have an arrow denoting “Front” on the pistons. Do a little google search and you’ll see. The new Toyota Dynamic Force engines all use offset bores (relative to the crank centerline) as you ask about, it generates the same end result.

@@TheGT350Garage thank you

I appreciate the comments. My machinist has cut the cylinders and sleeved ordinary 2-bolt blocks with all eight sleeves for over 45 years. I’ve run his machine work for 25+ years, and I haven’t had failures related to his work. We do things that many say can’t be done with success. And like it or not the pipe plugs won’t leak with the UG on them, and the core plugs won’t leaks installed dry. I’ve seen core plugs stay glued in and blocks freeze and crack because the plug would not budge, which is worse if you ask me. This isn’t a customer job, and no one is asking you as a machinist to compromise your personal ethics or do anything you’re uncomfortable with.

​@@TheGT350GarageIt's what works for You ! I built a 71 Mopar 340 that had 3 cylinders that were cracked & I had a Machine shop in Ft. Worth TX. Bore & sleeve all 8 cylinders and bored them to 4.080 & installed a set of TRW power forged pistons and I was told that it would never hold up but I ended up putting over 100K miles on it and never had any problems with it. P/S the Machinist left a small step at the bottom of all the cylinders and installed the sleeves with some type of sealant on them never had any coolant lose or coolant in the crankcase .

Great points,those windsor blocks r notorious for being weak from scratch

@ferdinandcuevas8457 Green Loc-Tite is commonly used during sleeve installs, they won’t move. Heat transfer is fine, and durability has never been an issue. Thanks for the comments!

@@rickyfulks6656weak?! Compared to what exactly? What is the criteria of your comparison?

You buy, I’ll try. 🤣 For now, I’m at 12.2:1 with Wiseco pistons, H-beams, stock crank, Mexican block. The next engine will get a steel crank, coated pistons with a narrower ring pack, and a 4.125” bore Dart block in 3-5 years

Actually, the brushes from Goodson are what I use, not Sunnen, they run right at $75 for the UF-450 Ultrafinish Plateau Soft Hones, and we are not looking to change the cylinder size, just take that peak off the top.

I considered that, but it was the height of Covidflation, and they were about $4000 delivered. They are also nearly 80lbs heavier and I don’t want the weight on the nose of the car. And sleeving and line honing the block was on the machine shop’s dime because they screwed up. It’s normally about $100 per cylinder, so with all eight and a line hone it’s about $1000 to save an otherwise good block. If it were a serial numbers matching HiPo block, I wouldn’t hesitate to sleeve all eight to save a block.

@TheGT350Garage Fosho,some of the hips blocks had VIN stamped on an oil pan rail

Most actually. The only ones that didn’t were service blocks bought through the parts departments and blocks that went to Shelby to be installed in 289 Cobras. If a HiPo went in a car, it got the VIN stamped on the passenger side skirt above the oil pan rail just behind the timing cover and in front of the motor mount.

I doubt it. It’s been out of the car for 50+ years. I have a standard bore C6AE-E casting with a fairly close date code, it’s about 75-90 days too early for the car, but that’s just waiting in the wings if I decide to return the car to “stock”.

No, I’m not building this for drag racing, it’s an open track road race setup, and I will also do some autocross in addition to a bit of street use. I get bored drag racing when the fun ends after a few seconds, and they don’t like it when you take the turn off at speed 😉.

Your 302 has potential. I’ve done tons of “5.0L” builds using essentially a stock short block that produce 400-450hp from out of the box TFS Twisted Wedge 170 heads. People don’t give that head the credit it’s due because it’s “old” now. It’s still probably the best performing head horsepower per dollar under $1500 for a pair.

Nice setup, like I said in the video, I had to make specific choices due to circumstances that were out of my control. If I was to do it again, I would use studs, but that change has to be decided before it’s line honed. I’m using the big 9qt Moroso road race pan and matching windage tray, also a really nice setup, I’ve used them before with good results. Canton, Aviad, and Moroso are all good quality pans, I haven’t had the best experiences with other manufactures.

I have a boss 302 windage tray and the main bolts had it on the 289 I drag raced in the 80's . Bought it along with a boss 302'balancer from the local Ford dealer. I also run the Mexican black have a 1968 that needs a sleeve. Then the one I'm running now is a 1972 Mexican block. Like you channel love the 289

Thanks Walter.

It’s a 9-keyway crank sprocket, perfectly suited to what I need. I do not like the “adjustable” upper sprockets for two reasons, I’ve seen the Torrington thrust bearings fail and trash an engine, and I don’t trust the clamping load of the fasteners in the adjustable uppers, I would want a better system of locking the timing pieces together.

Thanks for the reply

Because I already had the pistons and they are not available in standard 4.000 or 4.060 except as a custom order. They are really nice Wisecos from TFS with a small dome to offset the valve reliefs, and they are a hand detailed piston, unusually nice for an off the shelf piston actually.

❔

UA-cam has recently changed the algorithm for ad delivery, I don’t have the control over that you’d think. I’ve noticed it on content I watch, seems like it’s nearly doubled the amount and frequency of ads.

Off the car, blow it out with some brake cleaner. In the car, a tap on the brake pedal will push them out and clear the line without using more than an .5-1.0 ounces of fluid. Don’t over think it and you’ll be fine.

We shelved these heads at the last minute in favor of a set of Edelbrock E-Street 1.90 valve heads, I’m sure they would have run well, close to the same power, but it was a no-brainer to drop 50lbs and gain a little more power. The engine ended up making right in the ball park of 375-390hp, these heads would have still put it right at 350-365hp.

@@TheGT350Garage Thanks for the reply, 1hp per cubic inch is my goal. I'm with you, the aluminum heads are so tempting, especially the weight loss. I have the '70 D00E heads, and just want to see how I can do with iron heads. I'm already dropping about 140 lbs since I'm replacing an FE engine with a 351! What cam did you use? I didn't hear mention of it.

That engine was built with a Comp N271+ solid flat tappet grind. It runs excellent. If you’re interested in more information on the engine package, shoot me an email TheGT350Garage@gmail.com

Careful, the audience for this video doesn’t always believe in science, chemistry, or mathmatics. 100% Ethanol: RON 108-109 MON 90.7 AKI 99-100 Numbers without context are meaningless. Fuel is complicated stuff, understanding it takes an open mind. I prefer to avoid ethanol when possible, to increase the energy content of the fuel. But E10 blends at higher octane ratings are perfectly fine in most performance applications IF the engine is tuned correctly using Lambda and ignition timing is optimized to the engine. People who continue to insist on running arbitrary “Air/Fuel Ratios” and arbitrary “Total Timing” values are going to continue to struggle to get what they want out of their application.

@ well, for carb applications I could see how straight alcohol or even e85 would be a problem. I was just using it as an example of a fuel that can’t have any octane molecules in it but still has an octane rating.

If it’s not an erroneous gauge reading (verified insufficient heat from the heater in cold weather) the only possible explanation is the system is bypassing coolant from the radiator past the thermostat. In other words, your water pump is somehow forcing coolant from the radiator into the engine and bypassing it back to the radiator past the thermostat. It’s clearly an efficient enough cooling system, you may need to place a restrictor in the bypass, but I would suspect there is a large bypass taking place, equivalent to a thermostat being stuck partially open.

@@TheGT350Garage I have one of those laser temp guns and I’ll check it on the aluminum intake right under the water neck and it shows about 5* cooler than my gauge. I’ll also check it on the radiator and from the inlet side to the outlet on the radiator it’s about a 60* temperature drop. As far as the coolant bypassing the stat. Well, I don’t have any built in bypass on the car like some vehicle do. I even changed the water neck from a pop metal one to a billet one in case it was warped. Nope that did help. I thought about using the OE style thermostat at 180* but where I live the speed limit is 65-70mph and to get anyplace that’s what I’ll be driving on. At 70mph I’m at 3700rpms and I was told with the water moving that fast it can force the OE style stat shut. 🤷🏼‍♂️ I believe that those HF stats have a built in bypass now that I think about it. I guess today I’ll install a 195* HF stat and see what that does. I’ll send you a link to where I bought my last 180* stat. This guy checks each one before selling it to ensure it’s correct.

@einstein3509 A 60°F drop in the radiator core is tremendous, that’s a very good radiator. If your temp sensor for the fan is in the manifold, you may want to move it to the outlet of the radiator. This will delay fan operation until the thermostat opens and reduce the time the fan runs substantially. You do want to get the engine up over 160°F regularly to ensure the oil gets warm enough to release any trapped moisture or hydrocarbons (unburned fuel) that escaped the ring seal into the crankcase.

@@TheGT350Garage No the gauge sensor is in the manifold. The fan sensor is in the radiator. I installed the 195* today. It’s 72* out right now and it’s holding at 180* will driving on the hwy. In town it will get to 195* or a bit higher and then cool down to 174*-175*. I may have to readjust to fan controller to come on a bit sooner. Not sure how that 195* stat will work when it’s 90*+ outside. But I guess if I need to switch stats for summer that wouldn’t be the end of the world. It still puzzles me that the 180* stat won’t heat it up. Even in the summer it has a hard time climbing to 180* with that stat.

@@einstein3509 your situation is an enviable one for most enthusiasts. Rarely is too cool an issue.

Bit of a stretch likening it to dynamite there, the gasoline from the late ‘70s until the beginning of the ‘90s was an experiment by the oil refiners to produce a product that performed reasonably without the addition of TEL. They slammed in as much BTEX and Toluene as they could to make the octane rating but the “explosiveness” you’re referring to was actually a lack of stability as the refiners were figuring out as they went. By the early ‘90s they had MTBE in the fuel, more stable, but incredibly toxic resulting an an all out ban by ‘05, which made ethanol the additive of choice for stable combustion, octane levels, and oxygenation to reduce emissions. The early ‘80s were a wild time to be alive.

@TheGT350Garage I was just thinking about lighting brush piles in the eighties compared to today

I am a long time fan of the original TFS Twisted Wedge head, it is still affordable, offers great power potential, and works with a stock piston using a decent cam profile. If you’re looking for a combination, shoot me an email with your power goals and a little more info on the car, and I can point you in the right direction.

@TheGT350Garage I thinking around 350hp it's just a mild 289 with modified c4 to handle 400hp carbie is just a 2 barrel and standard exhaust system and standard manifold but it has a electronic ignition system the car is a 1969XT Falcon

@vincepinneri1703 shoot me an email; TheGT350Garage@gmail.com and I can shoot you a basic combination that will put you right where you want to be.

Unless you’re dealing with some oddball OE line, 409 is not used for brake likes, exhaust pipes yes, but not brake line. Stainless steel brake lines are Typically 304 or 316 stainless. And if the “worst” style tool by popular opinion can make the flare, it’s not a tool issue but an operator issue.

Factory A/C cars in ‘67-68 use a different heater box. R&R is similar, as is the rebuild, but you also have the evaporator in the box.

You have a fun setup, it’s likely you’re running a decently large camshaft. The point of the video is to help people understand what’s possible, it’s rare to find someone like you who will admit to doing it successfully.

You need to correct your ignition timing and air/fuel mixture. Ignition timing should be 10-14° initial with 20-24° mechanical advance but combined they should not exceed 32-34° total timing. You also need the vacuum advance working on manifold vacuum providing 10-14° additional timing at idle and under light throttle cruise conditions. Check my distributor curve video for detailed info. Late timing causes the engine to run hotter than it should and it builds slowly until it’s uncontrollable. Also check your air/fuel mixture. The car should be running close to stoich at idle, but stoich on modern fuels with ethanol in them are around 14.2:1. Part throttle cruise sound be 13.6-13.8:1, WOT should be 12.2-12.6:1. 195-215°F is fine for normal driving. Occasionally getting up to 225-230°F isn’t cause for alarm unless it’s popping off at the cap, then you have a bad cap or a localized heat issue. I try not to run them under 180°F because it increases wear and emissions (more blow by for the PCV system to deal with and less efficient combustion leaving excess carbon deposits in the combustion chambers).

what are you using to check your exact engine temp? i've been using an IR reader but i don't think it's accurate enough

@@nwesterbeckmaster IR temp guns are pretty close +/- 5°F. Check the temp on the intake manifold directly behind the thermostat. That will be fairly accurate.