I was running this saw for about 2 hours at about a 30-50% duty cycle ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxfQm1wmg0ItKDLavxj1nXtQY9HP7EF504 and it did a great job. I used the lever for the built in sharpener to clear chip buildup out more than to actually sharpen the chain. It managed to cut some hardwood stumps much larger than it's size without bothering the neighbors with hours of 2 stroke noise.
Finally, a video made by a professional using a tach to check RPMs. This is how it's suppose to be done. There's just too many people making videos about how to tune a chainsaw that don't really know what they're doing. great vid.
You can take my tach away and I'll do it blind-folded for ya. Either way. Pick your poison. I find the tach handy for reference but my ear is the boss. If it sounds off, I'll adjust regardless of what the tach says. :-) Tuning strictly by numbers is only good if the saw is completely stock with no modifications whatsoever.
I really respect that correction your stating! Yes, a tach is a professional piece of equipment that needs to be used as an aid went we tune out equipment ... But it is only to varify the basic range ... I don't believe that a piece of electronics is any where near as reliable or accurate over the course of time then a well trained ear. That's why really good tech's get mad respect "as the kids say" ... And they damn well deserve good pay and your upmost respect and the occasional case of really good beer dropped off at their shop on a friday .... Just like the guy that plays the violins in a symphony .... He can tune his instrument in two minutes ...by ear if something has changed with his instrument he hears it. I always take a new guy aside if he last a couple weeks and we know he's gonna be working with us and physically show him tuning... Put the screw driver in his had an let him make the adjustments ... So when he is running that tool and the tone of the engine changes he immediately knows it needs a quick adjustment ... They respect the tools more...keeps everyone on the crew invested in our tools...they understand that it's with those tools working in top condition that we earn our livings. I got a great mechanic that helps on the weekends... Every week I put the tools in the truck that need a tune up... By the third lawn in the morning everything is tuned up and he's carting a screw driver in his back pocket.... He's the slowest guy weedwacking that I've ever met... But I know my equipment is not only being respected... But getting the check up with the two stroke Dr. Yeah, this video should be part of every businesses new employee training on the first day...take off those earbuds with the dang music going and listen to the beautiful purr of our well tuned fleet! Now if I can just get them comfortable with using the old tranny fluid as hair gell ... I'll be alright! LMFFAO!!!! Extreamly professional video and you did stellar explaining why you do what you do in the comment! Great Job ....Sir!
+Brian Lawyer can i have a question? how can u adjust dolmar ps 5105.. Because dolmar has clutch engaged at 3900, so if i adjust La to 3700 where is the point when the engine is pulling enought air for the H ?
Yes ok thank you...I found out why I was losing power on my 660..it has a scorn piston....But When i get every thing back right I'm going to turn it up...after break in
My older Stihl 036 starts fine and idles fine but I can't get it to rich out on the high end no matter how far I back the high speed adjustment out... What can be the problem?
Thanks a lot for this video! Great explanations! Why is it so hard to get anyone to help you out on tuning a carb. Its like asking the shriners to tell you a secret!
michael crider to some, it is a secret. 😆 And not everybody truly understands the reasons why we set a saw carb up a little different than a blower or even a trimmer.
@@Sensei948 no, there’s not enough load on the saw at anytime when the L circuit is in operation to hurt anything. I set them to where they idle well and accelerate with no hesitation. Then set the H.
I have a MS460, my question the compression release when trying to start the saw i push it down and after one pull the release button releases and come up. Is that working properly, or should it stay engaged until the saw starts. Thanks again George, st louis, mo
Is the saw modified for more compression? If not, then the decompression valve is most likely worn. Some aftermarket valves also behave like this. I wouldn't say they are cheap, but a new valve from Stihl won't break the bank either.
Keep on being you that was an awesome demo. I kinda fuddle through my tuning process but we get there lol. Whats funny is without knowing it I retune at the same steps for the same sounds "minus the RPM gauge" keep up the good work. Alex Mathias
sorry to be so off topic but does anyone know of a trick to log back into an Instagram account? I was stupid lost the password. I love any tricks you can give me
@Rey Davian Thanks so much for your reply. I got to the site through google and I'm trying it out now. I see it takes a while so I will get back to you later with my results.
I read below that you said you can use the same procedure just substituting the RPMs from the manual which is great but do the 3300 and 3700 rpm rules still apply? I have 194t idle supposed to be set at 3000 not 2500 so does that change those rpms used to adjust at all? Or still look for 3300 then less than 3700
+Brian Lawyer I hear ya, we get people all the time who try to do their own adjusting and they make things worse. I've seen a good many saws with the Low mixture screw turned out as far as 3 full turns. lol
so how do you know when the L screw is adjusted perfectly for response? if it bogs down when you pull the trigger at all it's too lean and keep going CCW untill it doesn't bog?
Yes. But if you're on the rich side of the L screw it will also rev up poorly, and may load up (slowly flood out) while idling. Another indicator I've found is if your L screw is adjusted correctly, the 2 cycle engine will start easily. If you're too lean on the L screw it will be harder to start. Disclaimer I'm not an expert.
I think I would understand better if i knew why you were doing some of the adjustments - would love to know how to tune my saws (023,066), I now comfortably do complete re-builds on saws and take them to the shop to tune them........
Basically there is 3 screws that you can adjust. The Fuel Air mixture screw, the max rpm screw, and the idle screw. Basically what you he is doing is finding the best running setting on fuel/ air mix and then setting the idle and max rpm to factory specifications.
Thanks for the video. I cut above 8500 ft elevation and run my 460 magnum on the lean setting. If I turn it towards richer even a quarter turn it begins to smoke. Is full lean setting ok at 8500 ft and above?
Ok I have quick question are the limiter caps still in this saw or did it not come with them? I could not get mine to 4 stroke with the high jet all the way rich when saw was brand new I ended up pulling the cap to get it fourstroke is this normal for 460? Also I want to make whole bigger in exhaust outlet how much will it affect the settings do they run a lot higher rpms after muffler is modified?
Absolutely normal. Muffler mods make a noticeable difference in the settings mainly because the stock opening is so tiny on a US-spec saw. They don't run much faster after the muffler mod but they will have much more power throughout the power band. You may end up somewhere around 14,000 rpm WoT no-load.
Your sequence is right out of the Stihl Service manual for the 440/460. It is the same procedure for the 360/361 except that the idle rpm is 2,800 instead of 2,500.
@@Sensei948 I run mine a little rich. I set them 12,600-12,800 for a good four stroke. I do not want to smoke a cylinder and piston in very hot or cold weather. Pushing them to their limits only ends up with a broken saw.I want a saw that starts easy every time I need it, stays lit and relights. I don’t care if someone else’s saw will cut a cookie a second or two faster than mine or not. My saw will still be running when their saw has long since died an ignoble death.
Great video, Brian. Very instructive. My question: what does it mean "...saw begins to four stroke"? I do hear a slight difference where you stop opening the H screw -- sounds as if it just begins to 'gurgle', but it's a very minor change. Is that the 'four stroke' sound? Why is it called that? ie. how can a two stroke engine be in a four stroke mode? I've read this term a couple times before in one of the forums, and would really like to understand what it means. Thanks in advance for your help, Brian! ~Allen
By "four-stroke", he means that the saw is tuned ever so slightly to the Rich side. As a result, the saw actually misses every so often, rather than firing on every stroke as two strokes theoretically do. Yes, this miss is also known as "gurgle" or "warble." It serves two purposes - 1.) lets the sawyer know that the saw is not adjusted to the Lean side, and 2.) every miss represents unburned mix which cools and lubricates the engine ever so slightly. At least, that's what my Dad taught me.
Unfortunately I don't get to pick every song on the radio. ;) Plus, that saw was built piece by piece out of a box of parts. That warranty was history a long time ago.
I figure most warranties are tail light warranties, anyway, and not worth the paper they are written on. If something breaks, I fix it. Most products will last if you take care of them, properly. If not, they will not last. That’s about it. Warranties are designed to trap people that don’t have a clue. Warranties are not even a consideration to me.
You have to set the 460 up rich or it will beat you to death with the deco valve. Mine was a bitch untilI learned this fact. I set up all of my big saws exactly as you have tuned the 460. I do not want to have rotator cuff surgery. If you are having trouble starting a 460, just pour a half of a cap full of gas down the snout and this will provide enough lubrication to keep the deco from popping out and then tune as described in this video.
even if press throttle just keeps going was ok but ignition coil went so replaced that cleaned it all out and like an idiot cleared out near the adjustments and think knocked it all out now when started just screams as if it wants to take off lol
2 questions :) why 3300? at manual is 3500( clutch engaged) why not 3500? and why readjusting when rpms turn out over 3700?? and Brian u are really skilled iam lumberjack and the saw run bestialy ! i want to tune my chainsaws :)
3300 because we want the saw idling without the clutch engaged. Readjust the LA over 3700 because at that point the engine is pulling enough air for the H side of the carb to affect the mixture.
That’s about how I break them in. I load them up with a rich mix and let them idle on my work bench. They do not even get to see any wood before they have five tanks on them. I usually fill them with gas and bar oil and let them run until the tank is empty. The next day I run them for 15 minutes or a quarter a tank and I keep doing this every day until the get five tanks of gas through them. Then I put them in my saw logs. I will never cut more than a tank a day until they get 15 tanks through them. It takes me about a month to break in a saw to 15 tanks, sometimes a year. My 372 XP that I built this past April has about 10 tanks through it. My MS 241 that I bought in 2017 has 13.5 tanks through it. My MS 360 that I built in 2019 has over 15 tanks through it. My Ms 660 that I built in 2018 has 13.5 tanks through it. I keep good records, too. Every saw that I own (12) have entries in my record book, even used saws. The book details the date, model, what I did with them and how much gas they used and any parts replaced, etc. a fully detailed PM record for that saw.
This isn't bad for a baseline.. However when I'm out in it, I will tune it under load. I rely on all 13650 RPMs to take me to day's end. When in oak, I use carbide tipped chains also. Cutting butter with a blade.
Outstanding video & tutorial!!!! This should be the first search result on youtube for "Tuning a 2-stroke" @3:53-3:58 is the keystone of this vid - with 3:57.5 where it truly just starts to 4-stroke/burble with that "Reed-tapping bicycle spokes" Tip to the newbies trying to tune their saws perfect - get your mouse set on 3:56 and listen til 3:58 and keep clicking to repeat it - that noise that sounds like a plastic ruler snapping on a flat surface very fast repeatedly is the "burble"/4-stroking sound you are looking for. All the steps leading up to this are equally important, if not more so make sure you do them first (you can get a saw to burble by having it suck in tons of gas and it will run but it eats gas so quick its not economical nor healthy from the fumes). These new EPA strato carbs are even harder to tune - one degree of turning the screw (so little you don't even think you turned the adjustment screw) is all the difference between the saw running like poop or putting out power. The sweetspot is so small its almost nonexistant. Thanks for the vid, Brian!
it doesnt need to be this involved tho especially with a tachometer, screws should both be 1 1/2 turns out to start and dont need more than a full turn. also when tuning the high speed jet, you have to factor in the load you put on the saw when making a cut. shouldnt need a tachometer to tune a saw properly
Sounds in tune.running. will cut.mine will. I'm just to damn little.460 im about out in 3 hours.just cuz daddy bought you big saw.don't meen u can run. It.I don't like ignorant in the fell .
The chain oiler is definately working.
Very good tune procedure. Right by the Stihl book. That’s how I basically tune all of my saws.
perfect explaning that i can find for long time.
I was running this saw for about 2 hours at about a 30-50% duty cycle ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxfQm1wmg0ItKDLavxj1nXtQY9HP7EF504 and it did a great job. I used the lever for the built in sharpener to clear chip buildup out more than to actually sharpen the chain. It managed to cut some hardwood stumps much larger than it's size without bothering the neighbors with hours of 2 stroke noise.
13,000 RPM 2 stroke sound makes me happy like back in the day racing MX 250 cc
Friend, the revolutions 13200 max for the saw 372xp oe 2003 are okay?
Finally, a video made by a professional using a tach to check RPMs. This is how it's suppose to be done. There's just too many people making videos about how to tune a chainsaw that don't really know what they're doing. great vid.
You can take my tach away and I'll do it blind-folded for ya. Either way. Pick your poison. I find the tach handy for reference but my ear is the boss. If it sounds off, I'll adjust regardless of what the tach says. :-)
Tuning strictly by numbers is only good if the saw is completely stock with no modifications whatsoever.
I really respect that correction your stating! Yes, a tach is a professional piece of equipment that needs to be used as an aid went we tune out equipment ... But it is only to varify the basic range ... I don't believe that a piece of electronics is any where near as reliable or accurate over the course of time then a well trained ear. That's why really good tech's get mad respect "as the kids say" ... And they damn well deserve good pay and your upmost respect and the occasional case of really good beer dropped off at their shop on a friday .... Just like the guy that plays the violins in a symphony .... He can tune his instrument in two minutes ...by ear if something has changed with his instrument he hears it. I always take a new guy aside if he last a couple weeks and we know he's gonna be working with us and physically show him tuning... Put the screw driver in his had an let him make the adjustments ... So when he is running that tool and the tone of the engine changes he immediately knows it needs a quick adjustment ... They respect the tools more...keeps everyone on the crew invested in our tools...they understand that it's with those tools working in top condition that we earn our livings. I got a great mechanic that helps on the weekends... Every week I put the tools in the truck that need a tune up... By the third lawn in the morning everything is tuned up and he's carting a screw driver in his back pocket.... He's the slowest guy weedwacking that I've ever met... But I know my equipment is not only being respected... But getting the check up with the two stroke Dr. Yeah, this video should be part of every businesses new employee training on the first day...take off those earbuds with the dang music going and listen to the beautiful purr of our well tuned fleet! Now if I can just get them comfortable with using the old tranny fluid as hair gell ... I'll be alright! LMFFAO!!!! Extreamly professional video and you did stellar explaining why you do what you do in the comment! Great Job ....Sir!
Thanks a lot David! Sometimes I wish I still worked small engines and the green industry full-time. If only it paid!
Thank you for the very easy to follow video, much appreciated!
Terimakasih vidio ini sdh membantu saya ....
+Brian Lawyer can i have a question? how can u adjust dolmar ps 5105.. Because dolmar has clutch engaged at 3900, so if i adjust La to 3700 where is the point when the engine is pulling enought air for the H ?
Don’t you just love how the 460 lubricates the bar?
nice job........love it!
thank you for a nice video I don't know to much about tuning a carb is the same for ms260 pro ? thank you again .
great video thanks for sharing !
Always set the H a little richer when you're bench tuning, to factor in when you're Cutting in wood.
What were your final settings on the h and l screw if you don't mind me asking. I'm tuning a 461 right now.
thank you I have found the answer to my question in the comments thank you again
Nice chainsaw and nice jamming music.
How to avoid piston scoring. What is the contribution of carburator to piston scoring, piston damage, please replay me sir.
Yes ok thank you...I found out why I was losing power on my 660..it has a scorn piston....But When i get every thing back right I'm going to turn it up...after break in
which tacho are you using here please?
What is the stock LA screw adjustment? 5-6 out?
My older Stihl 036 starts fine and idles fine but I can't get it to rich out on the high end no matter how far I back the high speed adjustment out... What can be the problem?
Thanks a lot for this video! Great explanations! Why is it so hard to get anyone to help you out on tuning a carb. Its like asking the shriners to tell you a secret!
michael crider to some, it is a secret. 😆 And not everybody truly understands the reasons why we set a saw carb up a little different than a blower or even a trimmer.
@@GoFastGator Friend, the revolutions 13200 max for the saw 372xp oe 2003 are okay?
@@GoFastGator Friend, is it wrong to leave the L-nozzle at full speed? Can the saw be damaged through the L nozzle?
@@Sensei948 no, there’s not enough load on the saw at anytime when the L circuit is in operation to hurt anything. I set them to where they idle well and accelerate with no hesitation. Then set the H.
@@GoFastGator ell it does somewhat… I believe there’s like 30% of your fuel going through the low jet at full throttle
??????????
I appreciate the billy squire
Now how do you tune when all 3 screws have been moved all over the place. I have an MS251 stihl
are the limter caps off on this carb?
If you still monitor this post. Where can I get an RPM device like the one you use?
Billy Squire Hill yeah !
What is the rpm gauge you are using ?
nice saw brian
I have a MS460, my question the compression release when trying to start the saw i push it down and after one pull the release button releases and come up. Is that working properly, or should it stay engaged until the saw starts. Thanks again George, st louis, mo
Is the saw modified for more compression? If not, then the decompression valve is most likely worn. Some aftermarket valves also behave like this. I wouldn't say they are cheap, but a new valve from Stihl won't break the bank either.
Keep on being you that was an awesome demo. I kinda fuddle through my tuning process but we get there lol. Whats funny is without knowing it I retune at the same steps for the same sounds "minus the RPM gauge" keep up the good work. Alex Mathias
sorry to be so off topic but does anyone know of a trick to log back into an Instagram account?
I was stupid lost the password. I love any tricks you can give me
@Jay Armando Instablaster ;)
@Rey Davian Thanks so much for your reply. I got to the site through google and I'm trying it out now.
I see it takes a while so I will get back to you later with my results.
@Rey Davian It worked and I actually got access to my account again. I'm so happy!
Thank you so much, you saved my account !
@Jay Armando You are welcome :)
I read below that you said you can use the same procedure just substituting the RPMs from the manual which is great but do the 3300 and 3700 rpm rules still apply? I have 194t idle supposed to be set at 3000 not 2500 so does that change those rpms used to adjust at all? Or still look for 3300 then less than 3700
Friend, the revolutions 13200 max for the saw 372xp oe 2003 are okay?
Forget about trying to dial in your idle speed until you have the L needle tuned.
Sometimes they are so far out of whack that I have to leave the Idle screw turned in until the L is close enough for it to really idle on its own.
+Brian Lawyer I hear ya, we get people all the time who try to do their own adjusting and they make things worse. I've seen a good many saws with the Low mixture screw turned out as far as 3 full turns. lol
very informative video. where did you learn this procedure?
Friend, the revolutions 13200 max for the saw 372xp oe 2003 are okay?
R you below 1 turn at this point?
so how do you know when the L screw is adjusted perfectly for response? if it bogs down when you pull the trigger at all it's too lean and keep going CCW untill it doesn't bog?
Yes. But if you're on the rich side of the L screw it will also rev up poorly, and may load up (slowly flood out) while idling. Another indicator I've found is if your L screw is adjusted correctly, the 2 cycle engine will start easily. If you're too lean on the L screw it will be harder to start. Disclaimer I'm not an expert.
Check out Steve’s small engine saloon... Perfect explaining on that channel
I think I would understand better if i knew why you were doing some of the adjustments - would love to know how to tune my saws (023,066), I now comfortably do complete re-builds on saws and take them to the shop to tune them........
Basically there is 3 screws that you can adjust. The Fuel Air mixture screw, the max rpm screw, and the idle screw. Basically what you he is doing is finding the best running setting on fuel/ air mix and then setting the idle and max rpm to factory specifications.
Thanks for the video. I cut above 8500 ft elevation and run my 460 magnum on the lean setting. If I turn it towards richer even a quarter turn it begins to smoke. Is full lean setting ok at 8500 ft and above?
Ok I have quick question are the limiter caps still in this saw or did it not come with them? I could not get mine to 4 stroke with the high jet all the way rich when saw was brand new I ended up pulling the cap to get it fourstroke is this normal for 460? Also I want to make whole bigger in exhaust outlet how much will it affect the settings do they run a lot higher rpms after muffler is modified?
Absolutely normal. Muffler mods make a noticeable difference in the settings mainly because the stock opening is so tiny on a US-spec saw. They don't run much faster after the muffler mod but they will have much more power throughout the power band. You may end up somewhere around 14,000 rpm WoT no-load.
The tach is a Stihl EDT-7
Sikat kawan
After LA adjustment 3300 Do you close the low screw to lean out to get 3700 rpm?
Yes, I'm not looking for 3700 specifically but thats where the rpms just happened to peak.
Your sequence is right out of the Stihl Service manual for the 440/460. It is the same procedure for the 360/361 except that the idle rpm is 2,800 instead of 2,500.
Friend, the revolutions 13200 max for the saw 372xp oe 2003 are okay?
@@Sensei948 not my saws. I like my saws to run safely rich.
a
that is - 300 revolutions from max 13500 according to the instructions is it ok?
@@Sensei948 I run mine a little rich. I set them 12,600-12,800 for a good four stroke. I do not want to smoke a cylinder and piston in very hot or cold weather. Pushing them to their limits only ends up with a broken saw.I want a saw that starts easy every time I need it, stays lit and relights. I don’t care if someone else’s saw will cut a cookie a second or two faster than mine or not. My saw will still be running when their saw has long since died an ignoble death.
@@johnclarke6647 oil mix 1:33 is ok ?
Great video, Brian. Very instructive. My question: what does it mean "...saw begins to four stroke"? I do hear a slight difference where you stop opening the H screw -- sounds as if it just begins to 'gurgle', but it's a very minor change. Is that the 'four stroke' sound? Why is it called that? ie. how can a two stroke engine be in a four stroke mode? I've read this term a couple times before in one of the forums, and would really like to understand what it means. Thanks in advance for your help, Brian!
~Allen
By "four-stroke", he means that the saw is tuned ever so slightly to the Rich side. As a result, the saw actually misses every so often, rather than firing on every stroke as two strokes theoretically do. Yes, this miss is also known as "gurgle" or "warble." It serves two purposes - 1.) lets the sawyer know that the saw is not adjusted to the Lean side, and 2.) every miss represents unburned mix which cools and lubricates the engine ever so slightly. At least, that's what my Dad taught me.
I have ms261 and soon as I start it the chain starts going round fast on its own with engine screaming which shall I adjust first
Does it settle down as soon as you blip the throttle? It may be getting stuck in the fast idle/warn start position.
Unfortunately I don't get to pick every song on the radio. ;)
Plus, that saw was built piece by piece out of a box of parts. That warranty was history a long time ago.
I figure most warranties are tail light warranties, anyway, and not worth the paper they are written on. If something breaks, I fix it. Most products will last if you take care of them, properly. If not, they will not last. That’s about it. Warranties are designed to trap people that don’t have a clue. Warranties are not even a consideration to me.
Could you explain what the L screw is for I never really new
L screw is a low speed screw setup to 1 and half to specification. It mix fuel and air in low speed.
You can use the exact same procedure . Just substitute the specs from your owners manual in place of mine.
You have to set the 460 up rich or it will beat you to death with the deco valve. Mine was a bitch untilI learned this fact. I set up all of my big saws exactly as you have tuned the 460. I do not want to have rotator cuff surgery. If you are having trouble starting a 460, just pour a half of a cap full of gas down the snout and this will provide enough lubrication to keep the deco from popping out and then tune as described in this video.
even if press throttle just keeps going was ok but ignition coil went so replaced that cleaned it all out and like an idiot cleared out near the adjustments and think knocked it all out now when started just screams as if it wants to take off lol
2 questions :) why 3300? at manual is 3500( clutch engaged) why not 3500? and why readjusting when rpms turn out over 3700?? and Brian u are really skilled iam lumberjack and the saw run bestialy ! i want to tune my chainsaws :)
3300 because we want the saw idling without the clutch engaged. Readjust the LA over 3700 because at that point the engine is pulling enough air for the H side of the carb to affect the mixture.
Brian Lawyer so i can tune up my ms 261 .. same as this yeap? or 361ms ... have same parameters.. Am i right?
Parameters may be different (will be listed in the owners manual for low idle speed and max RPM) but the procedure is the same.
Friend, the revolutions 13200 max for the saw 372xp oe 2003 are okay?
DUDE if its just been built it needs to run on the rich side for at least 5 tanks of fuel mix.breaker in right...after that get it to 4 stroking
That’s about how I break them in. I load them up with a rich mix and let them idle on my work bench. They do not even get to see any wood before they have five tanks on them. I usually fill them with gas and bar oil and let them run until the tank is empty. The next day I run them for 15 minutes or a quarter a tank and I keep doing this every day until the get five tanks of gas through them. Then I put them in my saw logs. I will never cut more than a tank a day until they get 15 tanks through them. It takes me about a month to break in a saw to 15 tanks, sometimes a year. My 372 XP that I built this past April has about 10 tanks through it. My MS 241 that I bought in 2017 has 13.5 tanks through it. My MS 360 that I built in 2019 has over 15 tanks through it. My Ms 660 that I built in 2018 has 13.5 tanks through it. I keep good records, too. Every saw that I own (12) have entries in my record book, even used saws. The book details the date, model, what I did with them and how much gas they used and any parts replaced, etc. a fully detailed PM record for that saw.
wished i could do that with my ms660...I just cant remember how
Note the oil accumulating on his floor(and likely wall)
What the hell are you doing? The first rule of tuning a chainsaw carburetor is don't do it until the motor has reached operating temperature.
Warrant on the radio, lol
hhahaha I thought it was Billy Squier
At 4:42
rich pendlebury Heaven isn't too far away-eeeaaayyyay! 🤘
I think it's a Fast-Tach MDS-FT1
This isn't bad for a baseline.. However when I'm out in it, I will tune it under load. I rely on all 13650 RPMs to take me to day's end. When in oak, I use carbide tipped chains also. Cutting butter with a blade.
What tool did you use to check RPM'S?
A Tac like what’s in your vehicle it’s similar to that but it doesn’t stay with the saw it is its own tool
@@kylarschilz Friend, the revolutions 13200 max for the saw 372xp oe 2003 are okay?
Outstanding video & tutorial!!!! This should be the first search result on youtube for "Tuning a 2-stroke"
@3:53-3:58 is the keystone of this vid - with 3:57.5 where it truly just starts to 4-stroke/burble with that "Reed-tapping bicycle spokes"
Tip to the newbies trying to tune their saws perfect - get your mouse set on 3:56 and listen til 3:58 and keep clicking to repeat it - that noise that sounds like a plastic ruler snapping on a flat surface very fast repeatedly is the "burble"/4-stroking sound you are looking for. All the steps leading up to this are equally important, if not more so make sure you do them first (you can get a saw to burble by having it suck in tons of gas and it will run but it eats gas so quick its not economical nor healthy from the fumes).
These new EPA strato carbs are even harder to tune - one degree of turning the screw (so little you don't even think you turned the adjustment screw) is all the difference between the saw running like poop or putting out power. The sweetspot is so small its almost nonexistant.
Thanks for the vid, Brian!
Haiwaltmshin oil kam kaise kare
Billy squire music voided your warranty....
let me know if you want to sell that 460
john reilly Sorry! This one has long been sold but lives in as a MMWS cutting firewood in Ohio!
good job at burning your emergency clutch at the beginning when powering on lol!
Queste accelerate a freddo non fanno bene
it doesnt need to be this involved tho especially with a tachometer, screws should both be 1 1/2 turns out to start and dont need more than a full turn. also when tuning the high speed jet, you have to factor in the load you put on the saw when making a cut. shouldnt need a tachometer to tune a saw properly
That turned out being hit-or-miss-try this-try that- ok that’s good- mmmm, not so sure- try this again confusing shitsky.
Sounds in tune.running. will cut.mine will. I'm just to damn little.460 im about out in 3 hours.just cuz daddy bought you big saw.don't meen u can run. It.I don't like ignorant in the fell .
This video is pure NONSENSE!