26 X 1.5" slick road tires won't convert your old mountain bike into a hybrid. It just doesn't work!
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- Опубліковано 18 тра 2024
- TRIGGERED!!! I've never ridden a bike with these tires on it and thought it felt right. I've also never given it much thought. Until I did....and now I can't unthink it! So here I am, making a big stink outta literally nothing, just like everyone else. Fight me....✌️❤️🚲
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I learned my lesson the hard way. Don't convert one bike into another. There's a reason why Road, MTB and Hybrids bikes are engineered and designed the way they are.
Bingo! That said, small changes in tire size and knobbiness can usually get you pretty close to what you’re after. But the 2” knobby to 1.5” slick trend is a gimmick.
@@bkefrmr Since it's a disc brake bike, what would your thought be on going to a bigger rim (27.5 or even 700c) with a narrower tire on a bike like this? Obviously a lot more cost than just changing tires, but maybe cheaper than buying a whole hybrid bike?
@@LukeRichardson1981 Once you start to change one thing on a bike then you're starting to reengineer the other components of the bike to match. Its lot less headaches and money just to buy a good cheap used hybrid that's already been designed to your specs. Don't ask me how I know that. ;)
@@LukeRichardson1981 If you mind the wheel/tire OD remaining within couple of millimeters tolerance you can change, but there's also factor of the tire width affecting steering characteristics, which has also been designed with certain tire width and pressure in mind. Put a narrower tire with harder tire pressure on on a bigger wheel aligning to the original OD and the steering will likely change to twitchier, since there's less resistance of the narrow tire with higher tire pressure when turning the wheel.
There are also some special bikes that have been designed for looser specs, for example some Surlys and such, so they can be more compliant with various wheel/tire size setups. When we're talking about standard bikes, making changes will more than often result things you may not expect, sometimes they can be good, but also quite often not so good.
Changing specs on a bike you always need to take into consideration many factors and variables, some which my not be that apparent at first and something that usually requires experience from practical experimentation over the time, studying bit of theory doesn't hurt either.
When was the crash?
All Nonsense! Years ago I had one bike. I swapped out the knobbies for 1.5 slicks. Made my daily commute so much better. Number one rule(no matter what you ride) is to put your Outside pedal down while turning. Putting your Inside pedal down always invites a crash. I support slicks if you like them.
That wasn't the 1.5 size that changed it, it was the tread. I went UP a size from 2 to 2.3 back in the day and it was significantly faster, the big difference being knobbies vs semislicks.
So, yeah, you would've had a better time with larger slicks.
Yeah the burst of acceleration out of the hole is great with these light weight tires. If you don't already I suggest that you run the rear tire near maximum and front near minimum. That will protect the rear rim where your weight is and give you some extra cushion up front and a little more grip up there too. This does work well with the old MTB that would not be considered a MTB today. In my experience it just depends on the bike. An old MTB with short stays dies this well. The ones with super long stays just go with a big tire and set it up laid-back and enjoy a slow cruise.
@@MarchuxProductions Good point. Larger wheels roll faster. That's a given. Often we change multiple things at the same time and that makes it hard to isolate the variable that is making the most difference.
Yeah. He's way off base
@@fallenshallrise Larger wheels do not roll faster. They are better at rolling over stuff, but on flat ground wheel size does not matter for speed.
Older mountain bikes are the Swiss Army knives of bikes. You can knobby them up and tackle medium off-road trails. You can convert many to drop bars and have a “gravel bike”. You can slick them up and add hybrid handlebars and turn them into city bikes. Most have enough mounting points for at least rear racks and maybe fenders. And there are still so many options available for 26-inch wheels.
Wife and I (in our 60s) took off our junk 26×2.25 knobbies from our 90s Trek MTBs and put on a set of Bontrager 26x1.5 hybrids. Then we then rode them unsupported from DC to Cleveland. Rolling resistance was great. Pedal clearance above the ground was a little over 4" on both. The only thing I forgot to check before leaving was if the local bike mechanic thought we looked stupider with them or without them.
First mistake, always worry about how dorks think you look
Ha ha
Rolling resistance was great? That's a shame. You should have learned about the impact of tire width to your riding efficiency first, wider is generally better at least up to 2.0 or 50mm wide or so. There are many great 26" city and trekking tires without much knobs at 1.75 to 2.0 range or even wider than that, which provide comfort, grip and rolling efficiency which make you faster/more efficient than narrow like 1.5 tires. There are many factors at play in bicycle tires riding efficiency and going narrow has been learned to be wrong development in the past, that's why road bikes for example have gone from 20mm to 28-32mm wide. If your bike frame can host 26" x 2.0 it's way better than 26" x 1.5 any day.
@@cycleistic1365 By "Rolling resistance was great", means rolling resistance was low. "Great" as in 'very very good'. Thanks for the explanation tho', I'll always use wider tires now... best for our broken city streets anyway.
Why on earth would you care if your bike mechanic thinks your bike looks stupid?
Recently found myself thinking "good enough for who it's for" when working on my own bikes.
I installed a set of Ritchey Tom Slick 26 by 1.5-inch tires on my Bridgestone MB-3 commuter and I loved the way they rolled. They were much faster and quieter than the cheap tires that they replaced. I don’t think the bike looked stupid, in part because I ran Velo- Orange stainless fenders, and there wasn’t as much room under the fork compared to the bike in the video. I never had pedal strike issues despite running 175mm cranks. After the Ritcheys wore out I moved on to Rene Herse 1.75-inch slicks. I highly recommend them.
So many people don't get that the size change from a 2 inch to a 1.5 inch tire is not what makes the difference, it's the damn tread. A 2 inch semislick replacing a 2 inch knobby will almost always give better results than stuffing goofy 1.5s on there. And that's coming from a guy that daily rides 25mm slicks on a fixed gear ahaha
It is the thread count and pliability that makes a difference.
I purchased a set of 650b wheels, QRs and disc hubs. Fitted some 2 inch gravel tires.
Looks great, rolls fast, no clearance issues.
Bike is a Klein Attitude 2003, looks alot like the Trek 8500.
Dear Bike Farmer,
I disagree with you about the 26 x 1.5 slicks. They have a place for distance commuters who only have a 26" bike. They significantly reduce rolling resistance allowing a cheap mtb with a rear rack have an easier ride on pavement. I have also used them on 26" recumbents.
I get your points in this video, but I disagree.
Thanks for reading my rebuttal
Mike
Agreed. 90's mt bikes with those kwest tires make great commuter bikes. I prefer early 90's with a rigid fork but whatever. They ride great with those tires and have a ton of room for fenders, racks, whatever. 3x6 or 7 gearing means cheap chains and cassettes. I've probably sold 100's of those builds and several 1,000 of those tires.
I gladly take the 2 x 1.5 slicks, I have some on my 2nd wheelset for commuting. Works well around town.
I don't understand why so many people think it's the size that changes the rolling resistance. I mean, it is, but it's, but it's just a tiny part of the pie. The knobs are what make the difference. I went up in size when going from a really decent IRC race knobby to a cheaper Maxxis DTH, and the tread was what made all the difference.
Michelin, Kenda, Maxxis, Panaracer, Schwalbe, Surly, and WTB all make 26" slick or street-tread tires in widths between 2.0 and 2.5 inches, and all of them would work much better than undersized 2 6x 1.5 tires.
100% agree. Also, 90's mountain bikes rarely attract the notice of bike thieves, so you can safely leave them locked up at your place of work. If your commute includes some mass transit the smaller size of a bike with 26" wheels are a bit more manoeuvrable in the station platform or tram/rail car/etc.
Interesting. I converted my MTB over to a commuter with Schwalbe City Jet (26x1.5). It looks right with full length mudguards / fenders and I've never had a pedal strike. Natural inclination is to turn the crank to 12 o' clock going into a corner.
“It happens to be a gorgeous morning, it’s hard to see how dumb this bike looks” had me rolling 🤣
That one is a bit obtuse! Thank you for appreciating it!
I put 2.0" Bontrager H2 hybrid-style tires on my old 26" bike. The tire change and an inexpensive rack have turned it into a fine commuter/kick around bike.
30ish year bike mechanic here. Gotta agree, not a fan of this size. Don’t care so much about looks, but we’ve been in agreement about the practical disadvantages since the beginning of the millennium! Plenty low rolling resistance with 2” tires, none of the mechanical drawbacks and usually a more comfortable ride too!
I got 26x1.75" semi-slick tires for a mountain bike a two and a half years ago and it's one of the best decisions I've ever made. The rolling resistance is so much better, I've never had a single puncture, no pedal strike, and the adherence is amazing. I didn't have the money to just "get a hybrid bike", nor did I have the money to pay a mechanic that would btch about my tire choice.
yep, this guys a moron, used wrong size, its obvious.
And I didn’t have an emotionally fragile “customer” take personal offense and call me a bitch for sharing my bicycle tire preferences when they came to MY shop for MY help!
1.75s are way better than 1.5s
I'll comment this till my fingers fall off, it's not the size, it's the tread. You'd be just as well off with a 2 inch slick.
@@MarchuxProductions that’s what she said!
I have a single speed mtn bike with 2.35 x 26 slicks. They are a little heavy but roll fast and work surprisingly well on wet pavement.
I respectfully disagree! I installed these tires in this size a couple of months ago on a late 90's Specialized Rockhopper that I recently used for a 50mi charity ride ( Bike MS coast the coast). The 26x2.1 chunky tires that is came on felt like riding through mud while out on the street and these made a world of difference!
You just described what actually made the difference. The lack of chunkiness did it.
@@MarchuxProductions are you having any progress with convincing the people of your slick vs width theory…? :)
@@PRH123 absolutely not, but the BikeFarmer replied, so that's something haha
Hmm. 26 x 1.5 Schwalbe City Jets were huge fun on my old unsuspended MTB. Incredible cornering grip. All the puncture resistance of a wet paper bag, though. And yeah they did look way too small. Don’t recall any pedal strikes, although I appreciate that casual or novice riders may not realise or remember how to set the pedals when cornering. Enjoying the channel and your no-BS approach.
At our shop we really like throwing on some Kenda Kruisers on these type of bikes, gives folks that more slick rolling feeling they’re hoping for on the road and bike path while maintaining the same volume as a mountain tire
I'd say its about tire size rather than being slick/semi slick. The conti urban contacts are super cheap tires and are great when most riding is on asphalt. 2" urban contacts are perfect for city bikes
Those tires are great! Available in almost any size, fast rolling, pretty light, good grip, and really durable. Best all-round tire imo, if you're not looking for marginal gains.
I have a pair of those (27.5.x2.2) arriving tomorrow, to replace the knobbly tyres on my bike. But, if I were in the situation here with a bike to get ready for sale and I had a decent set of slightly used tyres already lying around, I'd put those on rather than putting another 65 quid into the bike! I'm looking forward to riding the Continentals.
@@james-p Perhaps I mean another tire set as I can get them cheap here for usually 15 euros each.
They are quite fast for their size and decent enough against punctures, but with a bit of width and keeping the tire pressure low are also reasonable on the cobble stones of the city I live in.
They are also made with quite a grippy rubber and are half decent when it gets icy in the winter.
I'd likely keep them to myself on the bike I sell I usually put the tires I don't want.
I generally find most continental tires a good choice, though on a long distance tour a pair of travel contacts had their side walls melt on me when I neared the Turkish border (these tires have since been discontinued).
Exactly. A big slick rolls about as well as a small slick, plus it both looks and feels better.
@@thomasullmann7447 interesting, this last week my rear continental contact started to have a bulge in the sidewall, it will clearly fail soon (am replacing it with Schwalbe)
Now you tell me! I put 26 X 1.5 Panaracer Paselas on my MTB in 2008. I pedaled to work 100 times and toured the Katy Trail. Now I am terrified of the thought of a pedal strike.
Fan here, not troll. I've outfitted several of my 90s MTBs with 1.25 or 1.5 tires, including Kenda Kwests, without issue. It looks a little goofy, but so what. Compare the geometries of an MTB frame vs road or hybrid and you have 3/4-1" of extra ground clearance. So, swapping out a tire with 3/8" smaller radius will still leave you with higher ground clearance than a road bike or hybrid. Plus, a technique my bike club teaches that avoids pedal and toe strikes, and leads to more stable turns: Put your outside leg down in the 6 o'clock position.
My 1990 Claud Butler Spirit had FJs until they wore out, then I put Michelin touring tyres on, then in 1997 I fitted cast alloy 5 spoke wheels and Nokia City Runners (slick), never had a pedal strike and it goes like a rocket on asphalt. And I still own it, plus 3 e-bikes too. I'm 67 years old and been riding bicycles since before you were born sonny boy !
I think I put a set like this on my cheap GT mountain bike years ago. I was a poor grad student who transitioned from mountain to road riding and I could not afford a road bike. The speed boost relative to knobby tires was very nice. I don’t remember striking the ground, but I wasn’t doing many tight turns.
Same here but I was using an early 90's Giant so the geo may have been a little more accomodating. Certainly made the commute bearable.
My bike sucks! LOL I switched to 26 x 1.5s years ago... My frame is different so I've got 4.5 inches of pedal clearance. The bike does seem "twitchey?" at low speed I thought that was because I am a spaz. I actually like the way it looks. Thanks for the video! 😁
I did the same with my old Trek 4300. They worked great!
"Woody Chairrelson" came close to making me spit take my coffee. 😂
Been riding a 90s mtb with 26x1.5 slicks for probably 20 years. Never had a problem. I've even replaced them a number of times! Wore my helmet too. 😂
I suffered from the opposite issue - trying to fix 26x1.95 on a touring bicycle that wasn't really intended for those tires.
Toe overlap was an issue, and tire clearance was bare minimum, swapping back to 26x1.75 really improved the ride
Yep. I have 26x1.75s on my old Surly LHT touring bike. Fine on pavement, rail trails, and gravel roads.
I bought a different fork just to fit 1.95's on my gravel touring bike. +1 for crown forks. My road touring bike is a 63.5 cm (25in) monster anything bigger than 700x36 makes it too tall.
Very practical advice. I tried the narrower tires once on my mountain bike and found pedal strikes started. Went to 26x2.0 Schwalbe Big Apple tires. Faster rolling, good air volume, no pedal skrikes.
I stuffed 26x2.5 big apples in my old mountain bike. With a little rim wobble they barely fit but I love the look and comfort of the massive tire 😂
@@zwicker5585 I did the same and love them.
I had to put 170 cranks on my 26” because those 175s just strike on everything. Shockingly a massive difference, probably be worthwhile even for a road bike.
I put 26" x 1.5" tires on my old MTB 5 years ago and it's worked out great as a casual road bike. No pedal strike issues. But I guess you got me to click on the video and comment so...
Short long story, last March, wife's 1999 Scott mountain bike had 1.95 tyres(Scotland). I sussed out the local cycle shop and asked if he could fit the widest tire that would fit. He pulled out a new set, 2.25x26 fitted them, wow "way better eh." Still got a bit more room for something wider. Rode like an old bike before, now rides like a dream.👍
I learned the same lesson years ago. Those old 26" wheel bikes want a ~2" tire. Going low does the things you mentioned, as well as reduces steering trail, which leads to the "divey" feeling you mention. However, going the other way can be good. I've got some of those plumb, chusy 2.3" Rene Herse on an old Trek MountainTrack, and that bikes a joy to ride. In fact, getting ready for a Katy trail tour on it in a few weeks.
90's MTBs are the Swiss Army Knives of bikes but only if you kit it out correctly. I put 1.5's on a bike and not only did it not look right, it felt wrong too. The over built alloy frame sitting on higher pressure tires just beat me up. Those things need the beef.
switched up an old 26er xc bike with 650b wheels and it is the way to go. EXACT same diameter with a gravel tire as 26 fat tire, and so much faster on road and gravel, while still keeping enough trail capability to get by when needed. It's my dad bike with trailer mount and mechanical discs and 3x9. It is not particularly cool or exciting, but it pretty much always works while all my other bikes break.
I rolled 26x1.25 tires on my campus cruiser all through college. Old Cannondale mt bike, single speed (surly singulator), and lived in the mountains of southern NM. I loved that bike. DT Swiss/XT wheels, XT hollowtech crank, brakes and levers. It weighted almost nothing. The ol' Cracknfail Cannondale is what happened to it.
I had a pair of the old 26 by 2.25 city slicker tires on my bike when commuting but would swap out to knobs for dirt riding.
Your strat for fixing a crooked stem is way better than the take the whole tire off and "reseat" the tube strat I've used up till now. Thanks Bike Farmer.
I actually put these exact Kenda slick tires on my 1987 Specialized stump Jumper and they work great on paved surfaces.
I have a 2001 S Works FSR with 1.5s and 50 years experience as a pro mechanic, track and road racer and coach. This bike is one of my faves and flys. Low pedals are fine if you know how to ride.
I respect your experience. Even though I’ve got 20 years less experience than you; we might have differing opinions on what rides well.
You'd probably be exactly as fast on 2 inch slicks lol
I ride around town in my Santa Cruz Heckler 6 with 26x2.0 Marathon Supreme and it's AMAZING
Those cranks look long too. But then , Im a road biker guy , not a mtn biker.
most old mtbs have 175mm cranks
I have 165mm on all my bikes now, excellent upgrade
Exactly, most people have too long cranks for their height. The bike industry has resisted shorter cranks on smaller frames, for cost savings. I would've personally changed to shorter cranks and kept the 1.5" slicks, better rolling and pedaling efficiency.
@@jayziac I don't get it. He shits on good tires because his cranks are to long. Unsub...
I was always told or taught to raise your inside pedal. So the whole peddle strike can be avoided.
I went the opposite route. I have a modern MTB I wanted to commute on so I took the 2" knobbies off and put 29x2.5" hook worms on it. It does well.
hookworms are HEAVY. they are sweet tires, I have a set myself, but they are beefy and wouldnt be my choice for a commuter tire. They are bmx style tires with tread all the way to the bead. fast rolling and tough but at the expense of weight. Probably looks sweet but some efficiency could likely be gained with a lighter tire.
@@ChrisTrunek yes, the bike comes in at 35lbs total including the tires but my commute is short and the tires don't mind all the debris and loose gravel. I was very new to all this when I did it and probably wouldn't do it the same way over again. I went with a BMX style tire for the durability and so I could terrorize the more "urbanized" areas on my commute. Either way,for riding on the roads here they are WAY better than the sticky knobs of the kendas that came on the bike, that was like riding in glue. I also have a vintage touring bike with 700x25c continental ultra pros that I ride and they do a great job...two completely opposite ends of the spectrum. Maybe it is time for an "in the middle" bike to complete the set.
They make those exact Kenda tires in a 2.25 size which I put on an old cruiser bike and they worked great. I can’t imagine 1.5 size would be comfortable at all.
I have had amazing results with the WTB cruz tires on several mountain bikes for road use. I bought my first 10-speed in the late 60's and my first mountain bike recumbent the 1980's . I have ridden gravel bikes, hybrids and road bikes yet for me...a bike is a bike. As wonderful as all the bicycle choice are today...I believe it is all just a marketing effort to keep the industry alive. Thanks for the video.
One trend I actually agree with is big tires. Go with the biggest tires you can fit and it's just a more enjoyable ride. You get more control over the ride quality with a bit of air pressure change. I run high pressure skinny tires with room for fenders on my touring bike but on my old MTB, booze cruiser I run 2.3" Fat Franks and the ride is so smooth.
Rolling resistance is more about tread pattern and air pressure than the width of the tire in my opinion and I think the trade offs of better traction, more shock absorption and less issues with running the tire 10-20 PSI low because you are grabbing the bike in a hurry is worth whatever difference in rotating weight.
Have similar Marin, steel frame, steel rigid fork, with 2.25 tyres its sweet ride
I saw him going after the Kenda tires. I looked closely. Then I thought, "Yep, those are the tires I have on my bike." So, I watched the video. I gave it some thought. The idea was that those "bad" tires were for hybrid bikes. My bike is an old hybrid bike with 700C wheels. So, I do believe the Kenda tires are appropriate for my bike. I dodged another one.
Oh yeah they’re perfectly good on bikes that were actually designed for it!
How did you get a 26x1.5 (559) on a 700C (622) wheel?
@@gk5891 Good question - Same tread / same brand but different size. People like you have an eye for details. That is a good trait.
@daniellarson3068 I have an old Rockhopper with steel fork, 1x8 drivetrain, CX MiniV and wider wheels (all takeoff pieces from co-op) that I put the biggest slick I could get on (had to inflate after install). Maxxis Hookworm 26x2.5 (61-559 so actually 2.40"). I wonder how he would feel about that? I think it makes a pretty good town bike. I rechristened it Curbhopper.
@@gk5891 He ain't shy in telling you what he thinks. Maybe a comment will pop up.
What bothers me is that no one seems to know that speed, grip and comfort depend much more on casing and rubber compound than tread. Everyone thinks you need lots of tread to have grip and almost no one believes me when I say my MTB with 2.1" knobby tyres has much less grip on a wet road than my road bike with 27mm slicks. And my MTB rolls really fast too with those light casing XC tyres.
These hybrid semi slicks are often so cheap and hard that they roll way slower and feel much less comfortable too.
Some bmx and hardpack/dirt jump tires can work well as street tires.
I love this video and it’s hilarious. I do think it’s okay sometimes. I recently took off my 29x2.3 XC tires and put on 29x1.6 inch continental slicks (contact urban) since I’ll be commuting. With nothing else changed, my average speed on my 15 mile paved commute went from usually ~15 mph to usually ~17 mph. By the way it ‘feels,’ I thought it would be more like 19mph. But I’ll still take the 17.
I installed 26x1.5 tires and get the same speed on my commute as my 700x28 road bike .
Awesome stuff man!!
I have made this change on bikes in the past and yes.. big improvement in just general performance of the bike👍🏻
26x2.2 continental race king protection, mounted tubeless. Cost more than the bike I mounted them on and worth every penny. Please just trust me and go out and buy them so they keep making them in this size. No need for smaller, slower hybrid tires.
Would be great if Conti still makes Racesport version of Race King and Speed King at 26"....One can dream.... That's leads to your point of buying good 26" tyres to keep production going....
Hookworm 2.5” slicks are the go
Back in the 90s, I spooned on a pair of 1", 100psi tires, Spinacci aerobars, and a rear rack onto my Gary Fisher Hoo Koo e Koo hardtail and rode from Oakland to LAX along the Pacific Coast Highway. I was more than a match for my buddy on his touring bike, and as we approached LA on a Sunday, we were catching and passing lycra-clad group rides.
The front was a touch squirrelly and the 175mm cranks were a bit more challenging to spin smoothly, but the whole thing worked surprisingly well.
i have a marin bolinas ridge i bought new in 2003 that looks a lot like this bike -- it was fun seeing that top and down tube shape, y2000 rims, and other familiar components. mine came with a knobbier tire in the back so when that wore out i replaced it with one that had a smoother centerline since i ride it mostly on pavement or crushed limestone. i also put shorter cranks on it when i replaced the worn-out drivetrain, so even less pedal strikes
Schwalbe makes some very nice BMX like tires for old MTBs like the Big Apple, I have them on my commuter, very nice!
I love my Continental Town and Country tires. 26 x 2.1 with a center rib and inverted tread. Plus that wonderful Continental rubber
You look like Windows95Man and you have the cool vibe too. I would love to have such a cool bike dude around, the people in your area can be very happy!
I turned a 90's Cannondale mtb into a commuter for my son. But, I also changed it out the 26" wheels for 700c. It rides great.
100% true, also 1.5” MTB tyres may ‘cut through’ mud to firmer ground, but they’re rough as on a rigid bike
I feel you need a business partner to run "Gib's Cafe!" I would love the bike ornaments and surrounds while relaxing with a cuppa.
What would you consider the best 28x1.6 tire for a hybrid bike? I'll mostly ride in good conditions, bc I have an older bike for rainy days.
Higher volume tires also provide some nice cushion on a hard tail.
I'm restoring a 26' right now and you changed my mind about the new tires, thank you for the this great video!
get shorter cranks. they are all the rage now.
@@carlosgaspar8447 not a good idea for me. It's a restoration, I prefer to maintain the original normal size cranks, they are in good shape. But thanks for the idea.
@@joaopedrodefreitaslima2936 i didn't watch most of the video because i've run 1.5" for a long time. i'm not racing and simply don't pedal through corners. also, mountain bikes usually have a slightly higher bb than a road bike, and could be as much as half an inch, which is the difference between running 1.5" and 2" tires.
I run thicker touring tires. They are pretty fast while keeping the bike geometry basically the same.
@@nebulous962 are you still running the original flat bars and 140mm stem. that's part of the geometry.
I have 1.75 Kenda's on my old Specialized Stumpjumper M2, I have both cranks horizontal with the ground on curves so no pedal strikes, (Who turns corners with the pedal down)?
My 1990 Miayata Elevation 150 came from the dumpster with 1.5s. Use it as my local around the neighborhood bike. Put spoke beads on the front wheel. 36, one for each spoke. Good exercise in wonky bike handling for a good price.
Well I’m rocking 1.5s on a 1998 GT Zaskar with drop bars and barcons and still have the rock shox Judy’s. 26er gravel bike vibe . Gets around great. Feels fast light nimble and handles gravel path fire road style riding better then expected and feel efficient enough on pavement never even thought anything about the 1.5 until this video ……. I think the positive of 1.5 far outweighs the neg. Probably depends the bike as well. Ha maybe I’ll go 1.25 and give some roadies a run for there money. Idk but ride on with what you got
You have any thoughts or experience with mini velos? I have an Orbea Katu (an old analog, not the ebikes) coming my way and besides the regular tuneup and some color coordination, i was thinking of throwing on a steering damper. It's going to be my "always with me" bike that lives in the car. Would love your thinks and thonks on weirder bikes!
Good rant about tires on your bike. I have Ritchey Speedmax tires on my mountain bike. They are not aggressive, roll very easy,and more important they look good. Thank you Bike Farmer. 🚴🏻♂️
shout outs from marin county ;)
are there semi slicks that are thicker? like 2 inch etc?
I love my kenda qwests. I’ve never had a pedal strike on that bike. They’re comfortable. Smooth rolling. In combination with the swept back bars i put on that old mountain frame, its a very comfortable commute.
What about switching to 650b semi slicks to fill the space and keep the speed?
What else is required to qualify as a hybrid?
So what size did you fit instead?
It depends on the frame of course; and if you put nice metal fenders on to fill up the space.
Though, 1.5 really isn't enough tire; 1.75 is where it's at.
If they made a 2.0 pasela though, then, I'd ride 2.0.
the conti contact urban can go to 55mm, has 5/5 on BRR and good puncture protection
Continental Contact Urbans are the bomb.
I recommend them everywhere nowadays, especially for ebikes.
Yeah they are also one of my favourite. They are pretty cheap too so that's nice.
Yes, they are the best bike tires for road use and commuting. As a bikeshop owner, I recommend them for racebikes used for every day ride. And I think Schwalbe tires are overrated.
After a coupla wipeouts as a kid on my Schwinn, it became second nature to have the inside pedal high in turns.
Funny!! In 1990 I road a Bridgestone 6:26 MB1 with 26x1 1/2 and the Dirt drop bars across the US it wasn't perfect but it was what I had and didn't want to spend any more money on a new bike because I was a poor hippie kid who needed all my extra money for the tour across the US.
I mean, it's been awhile since I've ridden, but I don't remember turning, cornering , with crankarm at 6:00 o'clock position on the side I'm cornering, turning into....
Bike farmer - I enjoy your channel. I have to take blood thinners and anti-coagulation meds. I built a 29 inch jamis durango e bike. Im 6'2"but and i made the bike into a comfort cruiser. My legs get destroyed by the pedals just moving hte bike around and getting in an out of my alley. DO have any pedals you recommend that wont shred me cause I need blood transfusions every time i ride.
You could just put fatter semi slicks.. It is still easier to ride. I have some cheap CST city something 26x195.
I was taught to put the valve hole where the pressure rating is. But I was also taught to read your rider and put the logo where the valve stem is for serious writers rider for cosmetic reasons as they usually know their pressure rating and how to find it.
You mentioned “slower steering”. One road bike of mine has a very “fast” front fork. No matter what I do with the head set, bearings and races it still flops about. How do you make the steerer slower? Thanks, Laurence
I love a good spite project 😆
I have an old rigid mountain bike that I put 26 x 2 Maxxis slicks on it. Cost more than the bike is worth, but I love it for tooling around the neighborhood. I am fairly immune to pedal strikes as I run short cranks.
I can remember when 1.9 Specialized Ground Control tires were considered fat.
Good vid. Thanks for the always enjoyable content.
Me too
It works like a charm, with my 160mm cranks. Maybe the geometry of my 90s mtb with rigid fork just works better with the lower bb.
My old early 90's bike had deteriated rubber and I needed new tyres, this was about 15 years ago.
I went to the bike shop, explained what I needed, showed old tyres. He asked do I ride on road or off road, I said both, it's a mountain bike but mostly road and paths. I had the option off stupid flats or gnarly all terrain tyres.
I asked isn't there an in between like old BMX tyres, because all old mountain bike tyres reminded me of them, something in between.
He said nope, I got the all terrain tyres.
Since then I got a $20 AUD hardtail, fixed up nice. It had Maxxis Cross Marks and Larsens on it, that's what I wanted an in between. So I got a new one to replace the Larsen.
Then saw some super cheap ones second hand, they're hanging up in the garage next to my 90's mountain bike, came complete with spider home too, I think spiders know a good tyre when they see it.
I'm so glad I bought the gnarly tyre over the stupud hyrbid ones, still they're a bit too gnarly, I should really swap them with my hardtail as my cross marks only just barely keep up on a mountain trail, but they're enough for me so far.
Gotta have the right tyres, and I'll find something better for my 90's bike one day, the Cross Marks would be ideal but too fancy for it.
Every bike deseves a second life. My 1996 Scott Navajo is now a great comuter. Rides great, no pedal stikes at all, handle better, nimble and it´s faster. You may be right in the case of this bike but not in every scenario.
One of the best things I ever did bicycle tire wise was to swap out the kinds of tires I keep getting put on sort of randomly at the previous bike shop (still exists now, just a different name and owner) and move to a more narrow, semi-dirt tire. What I had on before was normally Kenda 700Cx40, and 38, while now I have two Fincci 700Cx35s on. It made all the difference for speed and handling, for primarily street running, yet could still do OK with the dirt or even the snow for once in a while. They also seem to be better constructed with some good built-in linings. I actually ran straight over a glass jar of pasta sauce once with both front and rear tires, bounced over, exploded the thing, almost wiped, yet no puncture at all. When I change the tubes for them next time I'm not even going to put in any Slime. Had no issue with pedal strikes either. In fact I never even thought of that possibility with things. Sometimes you just naturally adapt to things automatically. Probably my bike with these tires speaks to the difference between that frame there and mine here which is a XL size, larger and taller than my road bike. Probably also to the difference between a hybrid and a mountain bike, especially with the space for tires. I checked today and it's about 4 1/2 inches on the clearance for my Marin hybrid, which has worked well enough.
I put a Kenda West 1.95 (on sale!) on my old El Saltamontes for street / gravel / dry doubletrack riding - works fine given those conditions. & when I'm too lazy or time-constrained to swap tires for real dirt singletrack (w/ dampness) did surprisingly well.
I guess I don’t know what a hybrid is.
I turned an ‘83 Schwiinn Sidewinder into what a friend calls an urban assault bike. That thing is stout. It’s a nicely geared 3x7 w/ a 400% range. For the past 25 yrs it’s had fenders, lights & heavy duty racks. I think my favorite thing about it, it has very little bottom bracket drop & a 22” seat tube, so it sits tall. The drop might be 3/8”, or 10mm maybe, if that - the stays are almost dead level with a line from hub center to hub center, so pedal strike simply isn’t an issue.
After I let it stop pretending to be a MTB, the first set of tires were 26 x 2.25” slicks that did _not_ work out. What’s been on it since are good street treads like Schwalbe Marathons in the 1.75” range. They’re chunky enough, & they’re just fine on what amounts to a semi-stationary resistance trainer.
That bike is a go-to, utterly bomb proof urban commuter that can handle any surface I’ll put it on, all 4 seasons of mid-western nonsense, & whatever stupid thing I come up with as well - like 80 lbs of cat litter & food in one go. The bike doesn’t flinch or flex or break, it just soldiers on.
Stumbling on your video I realized I do not like the 26x 1".5 as well, changes the geometry of everything like you said I just didn't realize it and I went in a complete opposite direction and only go with tires 2.0 or larger on 26s and you can find good touring tires like schwabel Big Ben tires thanks again
There's only two 26" slicks you'll ever need: Maxxis DTH's and Kenda Kiniptions.
Love your channel when you put on the tires stuck the wheels in the dropout and started riding I said to myself I know Andy is going to tell us the tire size and bam 2.0 I was guessing 1.95 great job if you ever get any late 80s or early 90s diamondback or GT mountain bikes bikes with the the totally cool paint jobs blue and Grey smoke like the diamondback ascent ex or apex or the fade,splattered like they took a paint brush and threw it all over the frame like the GT bikes would love to hear your opinion on it like the coolest thing ever to come out or the stupidest idea to try to sell bikes thanks again enjoy the rest of your weekend
Iv3 enjoyed my slicks on my mt bike. No issues.
I own a 1992 KONA Hei Hei that's been morphed into a city/ rail trail queen and I roll with 2.3 Maxxis DTH tires on it . The high volume absorb bumps and curbs as they also roll incredibly well with a very small contact patch as they're very rounded.
I like collecting 2.35 downhill tires and shaving off the knobs to make big slicks. Puncture resistance is good because they were already made for that.
@@ThisTimeTheWorld Great idea.
There used to be a great tire on the market, Tioga City Slickers, in a 26 X 1.95 size. I loved em, can't find them anymore.
Working on the 1980(ish) Nishiki mixte bike I found in my neighbor’s shed. Just because I’m a curmudgeon. The frame is pretty cool and with 27” wheels and the Suntour group she’s probably a wallflower. She does have a chrome dork disk, coolness. We’ll see. Thanks for the great videos 👍
Wait til your neighbor finds out you've been in their shed... :)
Those mixtie frames are great commuters. Bonus points for the ones you can modernize. 700c wheels, indexed shifting...
@@aaadamt964 Mixtes are indeed cool, great frame for a city bike
@@PRH123 After cleaning and making a list of parts, the only thing decent is the frame, just barely. Not worth it.
@@PRH123 It’s back in the shed. It’s junk.
26x1.5 pasela folders are my go to backup tire on my bespoke travel and gravel bike. Packs sooo tiny. 🙂 Yeah, it came with 1.5 slicks and a high bottom bracket.
I made the mistake of buying those same tires for my in-town steel rigid mountain bike. Went back to my stock 26x2's after two rides.
I needed this video 3 years ago when I got a $10 mountain bike and put on street tires. Yes pedal stikes could happen, and rolling resistance is less.