Hi Jake. Great barn,can you tell me the size of the steel in the trusses and the length of them and the wall hight of the wall and ridge from the finished floor, please . I'm in Wexford in Ireland and have to get them made. Many thanks John.
Pressure-treated wood is softwood lumber, typically southern yellow pine that has been chemically treated to resist rot, decay, and termites. All treated wood is now “ground contact”. “Ground contact” has a high chemical retention level and can be placed directly on or in the ground.
A few questions. Thanks for sharing the video. It is difficult to find video enclosing soffits with steel trusses! 1. Did you remove the bottom edge of each steel truss? 2. Why did you enclose the soffit after the steel siding? 3. Any tips on adding the wedges for the fascia? Would rally appreciate your feedback. I'm working on a 40x60 with steel trusses in FL.
1. Yes I cut off the bottom edge of the truss for clearance. 2. I put the walls up first and then closed the soffits because the soffit is also your trim for your cuts at the top of the wall. 3. Put a nail or screw at each end of the fascia board and pull a tight line across it. Measure from the fascia board to the line and that is what you cut your wedge to. Hope that makes sense.
Hello, did you experience any warping twisting of the posts? Is it important to get the siding up fast to prevent that? Did you bury posts in concrete or use those rebar brackets and sit posts on top? I really appreciate you helping out and answering questions.
I didn’t have any twisting, I’ve got an open lean-to added to this shop and I’ve built another open pole barn and none of them have twisted either. It would take months for them to dry out and twist if they’re real green. I think them being bolted to the truss helps keep them square but getting the siding up definitely helps. I buried them in concrete, I know people frown on it but it’s very common practice here in the south. There’s barns around here that are 100 years old and still standing strong.
@Handyman Jake .great information! I had planned to just bury in concrete as you but read that poles in concrete could shrink leaving gaps for water intrusion or rot faster. But can't believe everything you read , I know. I agree that's the common way and barns are still standing decades later. I'm in NC. Again thank you!
having been in it for a few years, do u wish you did anything different with the garage door size and placement? 1 door 2 door.. wider or smaller? thanks
I like having the doors on both ends enabling me to pull straight through and also creates a breeze way and keeps the temp comfortable inside. Only regret is not building bigger but you can never build one big enough lol
I’m looking to build the same size barn but have two roll up doors on the side. Did you have plans to follow? If so, where can get them? Thanks. Great barn.
ho h thanks for the comment, I didn’t have any plans for this barn, I have helped a few friends build theirs and after you build a few of them, it’s pretty simple.
Ok. Do you mind if ask the total materials cost to build? I live in south ga. The cost will differ a little from where you live but I’ll have an idea how much I’ll save building it myself. If you lived close I’d like to come look and take pics of how you constructed it. I’ve never build a structure like this but I know I can do it if I have understanding of how it all connects. Thanks
ho h It cost me $13,000 including the concrete in 2015 but the price of metal has gone up since then. It can be done cheaper without all the windows and choosing a truss without the tail because it was almost $1000 worth of materials just to close in the eaves.
Handyman Jake ok. Thanks. That’s about what I expected. Gathering all information I can to be confident to pull the trigger and start this project. Thanks for the info.
I could only work on it a few hours a day and on weekends because I have a full time job. I had help putting the roof on, pouring the concrete and closing in the eaves. I framed it up, walled it in and hung windows by myself. It took 2 1/2 months from start to finish.
2 x wood has it’s strength in it’s height not it’s thickness. In other words you seem to have oriented them wrong. Also, scabbing on to the posts looks bad and doesn’t provide enough transfer of overhead weight to the ground.
Being a pole and truss construction, there isn’t any load on the 2x6’s in the wall. After the metal is attached to the wall it’s solid. I agree the scabbing to the 6x6 post does look bad but after insulation and OSB board goes up on the inside you’ll never see it.
@@handymanjake1039 you probably don’t live in an earthquake or high wind area then. If you did, you definitely would want the extra strength afforded by placing the 2 x 6 in their strength orientation to guard against side wind and shaking, which becomes “load from the side”. Also, the scabbing at the top of the poles doesn’t provide a sound weight transfer to the ground. In essence you have transferred the entire weight of the roof trusses and all to the hardware used to secure the scabs to the pole.
Only issue I had was tha he didn't just pour cement piers and stick some 4x4 brackets in and attack the legs that way with them not in Co tact with the ground
Yes it is the metal corrugated coil type roll up door. The opening in my shop is 9ft high by 10 ft wide but it’s a 10x10 door. I could’ve made the opening 1 ft. taller but I thought it would look odd for the door to be the same height as the walls and plus nothing I’m driving in the shop is over 9 ft.
WOW!!!!
Hi Jake. Great barn,can you tell me the size of the steel in the trusses and the length of them and the wall hight of the wall and ridge from the finished floor, please . I'm in Wexford in Ireland and have to get them made. Many thanks John.
Love the building, thanks for sharing. Question; did you put some kind of sealant on pressure treated posts where they meet the ground?
Pressure-treated wood is softwood lumber, typically southern yellow pine that has been chemically treated to resist rot, decay, and termites. All treated wood is now “ground contact”. “Ground contact” has a high chemical retention level and can be placed directly on or in the ground.
@@handymanjake1039 copy, thanks for the info.
@@marcbellucci2469 you’re welcome!
They make it look easy
A few questions. Thanks for sharing the video. It is difficult to find video enclosing soffits with steel trusses! 1. Did you remove the bottom edge of each steel truss? 2. Why did you enclose the soffit after the steel siding? 3. Any tips on adding the wedges for the fascia? Would rally appreciate your feedback. I'm working on a 40x60 with steel trusses in FL.
1. Yes I cut off the bottom edge of the truss for clearance. 2. I put the walls up first and then closed the soffits because the soffit is also your trim for your cuts at the top of the wall. 3. Put a nail or screw at each end of the fascia board and pull a tight line across it. Measure from the fascia board to the line and that is what you cut your wedge to. Hope that makes sense.
How close are the 6x6 post from hitting the truss on the 2 ends.
Great job, im trying to do the same thing now with a 30x36. Glad i found your video.
They are only a couple inches away. Go to 3:02 in the video and pause it and zoom in
Did the set the two post on each end 10 ft from the center of the corner 6x6? I plan on doing 2 roll up doors just like you did
Hello, did you experience any warping twisting of the posts? Is it important to get the siding up fast to prevent that? Did you bury posts in concrete or use those rebar brackets and sit posts on top? I really appreciate you helping out and answering questions.
I didn’t have any twisting, I’ve got an open lean-to added to this shop and I’ve built another open pole barn and none of them have twisted either. It would take months for them to dry out and twist if they’re real green. I think them being bolted to the truss helps keep them square but getting the siding up definitely helps. I buried them in concrete, I know people frown on it but it’s very common practice here in the south. There’s barns around here that are 100 years old and still standing strong.
@Handyman Jake .great information! I had planned to just bury in concrete as you but read that poles in concrete could shrink leaving gaps for water intrusion or rot faster. But can't believe everything you read , I know. I agree that's the common way and barns are still standing decades later. I'm in NC. Again thank you!
@@benw6554 you’re welcome!
having been in it for a few years, do u wish you did anything different with the garage door size and placement? 1 door 2 door.. wider or smaller? thanks
I like having the doors on both ends enabling me to pull straight through and also creates a breeze way and keeps the temp comfortable inside. Only regret is not building bigger but you can never build one big enough lol
Nice montage. Curious, why did you put your grits horizontal.... with 1 - 1/2” to screw to instead of 5 -1/2”... if that make sense
Thanks. I put the grits horizontally so I can put insulation between them and then osb board to finish out the inside.
But I mean, the 1 1/2” dimension out vs the 5 1/2” out... bleh... I can’t explain what I am trying to say >
@@astrong1984 Those trusses had straps to screw in to the the 2x6's 2" side. Long span between trusses, makes sense eh?
I’m looking to build the same size barn but have two roll up doors on the side. Did you have plans to follow? If so, where can get them? Thanks. Great barn.
ho h thanks for the comment, I didn’t have any plans for this barn, I have helped a few friends build theirs and after you build a few of them, it’s pretty simple.
Ok. Do you mind if ask the total materials cost to build? I live in south ga. The cost will differ a little from where you live but I’ll have an idea how much I’ll save building it myself. If you lived close I’d like to come look and take pics of how you constructed it. I’ve never build a structure like this but I know I can do it if I have understanding of how it all connects. Thanks
ho h It cost me $13,000 including the concrete in 2015 but the price of metal has gone up since then. It can be done cheaper without all the windows and choosing a truss without the tail because it was almost $1000 worth of materials just to close in the eaves.
Handyman Jake ok. Thanks. That’s about what I expected. Gathering all information I can to be confident to pull the trigger and start this project. Thanks for the info.
ho h you’re welcome, I’ll be glad to answer any questions you may have along the way, good luck!
how long did it take you to complete this barn ?
I could only work on it a few hours a day and on weekends because I have a full time job. I had help putting the roof on, pouring the concrete and closing in the eaves. I framed it up, walled it in and hung windows by myself. It took 2 1/2 months from start to finish.
2 x wood has it’s strength in it’s height not it’s thickness. In other words you seem to have oriented them wrong. Also, scabbing on to the posts looks bad and doesn’t provide enough transfer of overhead weight to the ground.
Being a pole and truss construction, there isn’t any load on the 2x6’s in the wall. After the metal is attached to the wall it’s solid. I agree the scabbing to the 6x6 post does look bad but after insulation and OSB board goes up on the inside you’ll never see it.
@@handymanjake1039 you probably don’t live in an earthquake or high wind area then. If you did, you definitely would want the extra strength afforded by placing the 2 x 6 in their strength orientation to guard against side wind and shaking, which becomes “load from the side”. Also, the scabbing at the top of the poles doesn’t provide a sound weight transfer to the ground. In essence you have transferred the entire weight of the roof trusses and all to the hardware used to secure the scabs to the pole.
Only issue I had was tha he didn't just pour cement piers and stick some 4x4 brackets in and attack the legs that way with them not in Co tact with the ground
What did ypu use to ancor the 2x6 to the concrete floor
I put L-bolts in the wet concrete so I would have something to anchor to. Go to 1:45 in the video and look closely, you’ll see them sticking up
How do you like the metal Truss? Where did you purchase them from?
I bought them from a lumber yard in Geneva, Alabama
Hello again, what size door is that? Is that the metal corrugated coil type door?
Yes it is the metal corrugated coil type roll up door. The opening in my shop is 9ft high by 10 ft wide but it’s a 10x10 door. I could’ve made the opening 1 ft. taller but I thought it would look odd for the door to be the same height as the walls and plus nothing I’m driving in the shop is over 9 ft.
Awesome, thanks for that detail. I love your building. Planning one now with one of those metal truss kits
Hello what height did your pole /leg height end up being after burying? Thanks
10 ft
Thanks