How to Install an Oil Catch Can | Unboxing EvilEnergy 300ML Reservoir | Ridgeline/Pilot/Passport
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- Опубліковано 29 вер 2024
- Due to circulating conversations I have seen about Ridgeline requiring a catch can I have decided to test it out and see if any oil is captured in the reservoir. In this video I walk you through a detailed step by step process for installing an oil reservoir. For benefits you can visit
www.mcnallyele...
to familiarize yourself. Vehicle I am using for this video is a 2018 Honda Ridgeline RTL-E.
This may void your warranty so you will have to confirm with your dealership if this will or will not. So at your own risk.
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Thank you for this video. I got the same exact one in today and I've been researching all night where to put the steel sponge piece at! 😅 you're the only video out of 30 I've seen explain this... thank you again!
Respectfully, i think you might want to do that same install for back 3 cylinders now... your catch can only connected to the front bank of cylinders. You also have a case vent on the back right side of engine connecting to the induction tube between air filter and throttle body, (steel chrome line)
So buy two catch cans or do it differently? I'm clueless so please help so I can learn and everyone else reading your comments. Thank you!
@@SK-mf1mi
Well, you can simply do two non vented cans for sure... then you’re golden.
I’m contemplating experimenting with a simple vented to atmosphere (one for front and another for back bank of cylinders) set up when I have time to tinker...
That might potentially turn out messy in the engine bay... so i would never suggest it till i see the results for myself. I suspect if i mount my case vents (2 small filters) high compared to the engine with short hose runs, oil escape i think would be minimal... but can’t say that for sure. All depends on the pressure the engine block produces.
@@hunterblack6937 Thank you!
If the other "vent" is connected between the throttle body and the air filter, that is where the filtered air is being sucked into the crankcase. Air goes through that tube into the back 3 cylinder valve cover through the crankcase and out of the crankcase via the front valve cover and into the intake manifold where he connected the catch can. The 1 can where he located it should be fine to catch some oil vapors before they get sucked into the intake manifold.
I have so many questions. 1. What is the purpose of an oil catch can? 2. When you don’t have an oil catch can what are the negative effects? 3. If there are negative effects, why don’t all vehicles come with these from the manufacturer?
Nice job. I especially liked your improvised mounting bracket. A little less .... no a LOT less head banging background noise would be nice for some of us in the senior citizen crowd.
Thanks George. Always trying to improve the quality of my videos
Здравствуй Юра. Спасибо за видео. Очень во-время выпустил видео.
На здоровье
Could you tell me which is the in hose on this project?
Why after I done.The car indicate engine emission and all wheel system.problem.
And I watch it 4 more times.Can I find out any wrong doing.Just have not covered the engine cover.
Got the same thing. This is a closed PVC system so remove the air filter and add the big screw on the top. Without the screw you have a big vacuum leak that causes the AWD and emission issue.
After I'm done. I found there is a lot of suction air flow from the "out" to the engine intake valve. Is that normal?
@@lou4018 I agree with you. I tried using the tiny air intake but there is too much air flowing into through the intake. I don't feel good about it so I took it out again.
Hi Yuri after installing your oil catch can you hear like whistling noise sound wen startup the vehicle? I do hear mind after had it installed
No I do not. I am wondering if you have a pinched tube or restriction of some sort. It needs to flow without any restriction.
@@YuriyMotso I did exactly the same you install your and check everything looks good i keep getting the whistling noise. I’ve removed the oil catch can and no whistling noise. I have 21 Ridgeline HPD and thank for your great video and I will try it again til no whistling noise
@Tha Srey don't put on the top air filter of can and it will stop
Holy anti seize batman! Otherwise, great video. Do you know if this catches all of the blow by or would you have to run a dual catch can setup to get the other cylinders?
Just installed the EvilEnergy 300ML Reservoir, all good.
UPDATE FOR INSTALLATION IN FREEZING AREAS - READ INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS: It is recommended that you go back to OEM during winter to avoid possible condensation/freezing blocking the lines and causing damage.
Thanks for posting that up. Takes one of these off the plate for where I live.
A bit confused I thought that that filter was for turbocharged applications for excessive positive blow by pressure???
Hello, i installed one but smoke is leaking from air filter when engine is working. Why ? Bad air filter ?
Hello. Can you share why you chose the oil catch can you bought (EvilEnergy one) with the air filter on top?
I had a catch can on my Ram and it caught a lot of stuff. Thanks for your video! I'm now installing this same can on my 2019 Ridgeline.
Open system is better eliminate dirt to build up in the engine...
Excellent video. Thank you!
After I'm done. I found there is a lot of suction air flow from the "out" to the engine intake valve. Is that normal?
Great video as always. As a relatively new Ridgeline owner (3 months) I really appreciate all you do for the Ridgeline. Along with installing the catch can, Have you considered doing a video on cleaning the carbon build-up already present in your engine? I would really like to see that, especially where you would introduce the canned cleaner ( I understand you want to keep the spray from dousing the sensor in the air induction system)
I have planned a video for this.
What about the one that goes to the intaketube
Nice, I'm thinking about doing the same for my Honda Ridgeline and my wife's Acura MDX.
I'm just curious to why you didn't go with a dual catch cans set up?
Cheaper and I don’t think this will be filling up that frequently.
Wouldn't re-routing PCV lines void certain parts of Honda's factory warranty?
I have no warranty due to mine being a rebuilt title. So doesn’t void mine. 🤣
That's what I would worry about myself these factory warranties the manufacturer/ dealership will void them for any reason they can find. rips you the consumer off
This was helpful. However, be aware that the rubber hoses need to be measured accurately for the plastic manifold cover to fit. In addition you may have to bend the rod that supports your hood. Be very careful not to drop anything as it is hard to locate dropped parts or wrenches. You make it look easy, but beware it may take you longer than you expect.
Thanks for the video. Installation was a breeze! Are you planning to disconnect it during freezing temperatures?
I've been reading that you probably should in really cold temperatures. What's your take on that?
I’ll be posting up a follow up in a few weeks to how well this works. Once I have tested it after 5000 miles I’ll make a verdict. For now I have no firm position on this yet. If there is significant collection awesome, but I’m honestly hoping there is not. My general thoughts are that it may not be significant, however, there are lots of conversations I’m seeing so I’m putting this to test and doing the research for everyone. Again my truck is different and may have results that are different from other drivers but should be a good starting point for individuals interested in the product.
@@YuriyMotso I have a catch can on a 2021 Passport (as you know, same motor). I live in Minnesota and ran it all winter last year. No problems. Unsurprisingly, there was a lot more condensation in the cold weather...but there were no freezing issues. Think about it logically...anything that would freeze in the catch can would also freeze in the hose from the factory. It's just not an issue.
@JOHN TAFT interior Alaska here, installed a catch can on a 2008 Toyota highlander 3.5L. Works good in warm weather. Winter time down low Temps like -40 on a 125 mile run at highway speeds it could be full of condensate at my arrival.
Factory lines are insulated good enough with closed cell foam that between the pcv valve and intake the moisture does not condense out and gets passed into the intake and passed. The aftermarket can up on the firewall uninsured was not ideal. Ended up taking it off. Maybe if a guy could build it down on the engine or add heat and insulation it would be useful.
During warmer weather it was catching oil/sludge mixture.
Great video, perfect documentation and instructions.
Thanks.
Good video. And take it easy on the anti-seize. You went way overboard on applying. I even thought you were going to apply some to your zipper.
Dang it! I knew I forgot something! 🤣
Just ordered mine. Thanks
I have 07 pilot that's burning oil replaced pcv valve still doing would this help?
No that wouldn't help .need to change the oil sooner at 40 % plus buy a s vcm disabler.i bought one for my 2020 pilot ,was burning a half to almost 1 quart at 30k miles.i installed a svcm disabler and it was solved not burning a drop now.this just helps oil from burning up in the intake and valves and getting carbon build up.and switch to a 5w30 oil not 5w20.for your older pilot .I have a 08 crv I been putting 5w30 since I bought it at 50k and has almost 200k no burning oil
@@pilot2020 mines 4wd it doesn't have the vcm
I like the music…and the video
Very helpful video. Just installed mine. The hard part was getting that bracket bent. I ended up using a vice to put the twist in it.
Thanks, been waiting for these video. Awesome. Please also do a follow-up to see how much oil accumulated over time.
Will be doing a follow up around 1000 miles unless no serious issues found then will be the next mark of 5k
Yuriy, thanks for another great video. Just ordered a can for my 17, RTL-T.
On a separate issue with some 2nd Gens. I recently discovered water intrusion into the left rear passenger cab floor due to an unsealed cab seam where Honda missed a spot installing seam sealer. The water comes down from behind the vertical plastic corner trim travels down to the area where the bed meets with the cab. As we speak 7/12/21, the truck is at the body shop where they are removing the left fender of the bed to get to where the seam is at and add seam sealer ($550). To check for water on the cab floor just lift off the door sill and feel under the carpet. Hope yours is dry.
Hello, for left side you are referring to drivers side?
@@SpayNeut.Always if your question is for me LP, then yes LEFT side is driver’s side. Just got my truck back from the body shop all seams on the left side corner of cab we’re re-sealed, leak gone…👍 Wish I could post pictures taken by the body shop. Honda MISSED-APPLIED the body seam sealer in more than one area.
Great video, I bought a similar one and I'll be referring to this video when I add to to my 2015 MDX. Thanks!
Awesome
@@YuriyMotso got mine on, chose a different mounting point so I couldn't get my engine cover on, but no biggie. Thanks again!
Edit: shortened the hose that came with the kit a bit and was able to get my cover on.
Can I install for Skoda BSF engine?
Is it tied into the intake manifold small vacuum line? I can't tell on my little phone screen. I'd think it has to be there or the vacuum line? To the booster
I didn’t know the 3.5L had a carbon buildup issue.
A few People are stating that they are finding lots of oil in their catch cans. I am testing it out to see if this is true.
@@YuriyMotso Looking forward to your follow up video. With this direct injection stuff, I guess even Honda can be susceptible to carbon buildup on the backside of the valves. Apparently the manufacturers don’t care about long term wear!!! (And why should they). FYI-The breather element may cause you to fail smog. You should probably remove the filter & keep the system sealed.
In the video my instructions note that I kept mine sealed but for people who want to use the filter the installation and fitment is for visual information. Maybe people other than Ridgeline owners may watch and might be interested. Thanks though.
F yeah!
Just curious if you got any check engine alarms or anything else. I have been considering this addition to my 2019 RT-L. Wanted to make sure the install went well. Thanks.
So far been about 100 miles and have not had an issue but I’ll be doing a follow up video in a thousand or more miles. All depending on issues or buildup.
Hi. How can you know which one is IN and OUT. Cannot find the engine diagram
Thinking the same thing 🤔
Thank You for this wonderful video, You are a great guy for doing this !!!
Thank you.
This makes me not want to buy a Ridgeline. Am I overreacting? If this is a problem, why doesn't Honda put these on at the factory?
Almost every vehicle will get the same collection. Some might be worse than others. So this should not be a deterrent.
@@YuriyMotso I was told by someone that vehicles with direct injection,as opposed to port injected, only really have these problems. In port-injected engines, the fuel being sprayed into the intake works as a cleanser, washing off any oil buildup that might occur. Makes sense but it seems like most engines are direct injection now.
Did adding that top air filter cause a vacuum leak?
I personally don’t use it. I’m the video I show the installation but I do make a notation that I don’t use it.
What is that good for ?
I explain it in my follow up video at 5000 miles. 👍🏻
So I just installed same can as you and here is what happened. Loud whistle sound coming from the filter car is idling rough. Switched hoses between in and out no change. Removed filter and it’s fine now. What do you think?
Do you have a kink in the line? That would be my first guess if you hear a whistling noise. Should definitely not be experiencing any idle issues. Make sure you have everything connected properly as the idling issues sound as if an air hose is not connected.
@@YuriyMotso I got new lines and nothing is kinked. How much suction do you have? Mine line is sucking pretty hard. When I closed the line the engine died
How much of the steel wool did you use? Did you over stuff it? Maybe your not getting enough air flow?
@@YuriyMotsoI didn’t use any.
You can't use the top air filter on these or Toyota engines. They don't like them.
I take it our Ridgelines warrant this?
BTW, Gibson has come out with a dual exhaust system for the 2017-2020 trucks.
I can’t guarantee this is under warranty or not so due at your own risk. My truck is a rebuilt title so I doesn’t matter to me. 😁
Also thanks for the update! I’ll check it out!
@@YuriyMotso No, I meant do our trucks need this? Technically you could install this on every newer vehicle now since almost everyone is using the same types of fuel systems for gas engines.
Ah lol. I have installed this due to a circulating discussion I have been reading and hearing about this so I am testing it out. It’s inexpensive but if there is oil that can be collected in the reservoir instead of going into the combustion chamber, then by all means this will Be a very good and inexpensive fix to increase reliability.
@@YuriyMotso Looking forward to your results. If this proves to be an issue, I will have to invest as well. 😉
How do you clean it?
Open it and dump it out.
Yuri, what would be the reason (maybe I missed it) for that filter on the top of the can?
The Honda is closed system however this filter on the catch can allows to have any pressure and gasses to vent from the system. Personally I kept mine closed as it’s similar to Honda’s OEM setup just with oil separator added in the line. People have done both so I am not sure which is best for this particular vehicle. Don’t think it’s necessary though.
@@YuriyMotso Thank you, Yuri, much appreciate your expertise!
@@YuriyMotsoI would think the filter on top could lead to moisture buildup in the crankcase. System should be sealed like stock to flow crankcase gases into the can & then to the intake. With the filter on it, fresh air would be pulled into the intake and not gases that had passed through the can. My $.02. Thanks for the videos.
Yuriy, when you first started bending the aluminum bar at an angle, did you screw it to a 4x4, started to bend and then finished the bend on a 2x4? And then why were you banging it on the floor?
Yes. Started with 4x4 because I didn’t have a vice and 4x4 is more sturdy. Moved to 2x4 because it allowed me to fully bend it back. I finished on the ground because then I needed to make the bend parallel to the mounting. I forgot that when you bend at 45 the material projection changes. So instead of going straight down and at 45 degrees it was 45 degrees but it also was pointing to the left of the engine bay instead of down towards the ground so I had to manipulate it back into position. I didn’t take very long as usual to go through the steps and totally spaced on how it was going to transition. In the end it worked out well so I’m happy. I would stress though it’s aluminum, so do not bend it fast and do not make sharp bends as it can crack. Heat it up even if you are not confident. Aluminum has no memory so once the structure has been altered it’s permanent. Hope this makes sense.
@@YuriyMotso Yuriy, thanks for getting back with me. Your explanation makes perfect sense and just in time as I’ll be working on it today. Thanks again - Lou
@@YuriyMotso Hi Yuriy,
Installed the EvilEnergy can yesterday ran the truck, drove a few blocks, no problems.
Today, cold start and within a couple of minutes got an “Emissions Problem” message. Started to drive off and engine shuttered and idle rough. Went in, disconnected the battery to clear code and switched the hoses back to factory, fired up the truck and drove off with no problems. Guessing my 2017’s computer does not like the CAN install. I’ve posted the issue on the Ridgeline Owners Club to see if anyone has a similar experience. Any thoughts 💭?
I installed mine pretty much in the same location as Yuriy did, but I didn't need to bend the bracket. I just drilled a new hole on top of the area and used the bracket as it came. Maybe I'll post a video on my own channel to show. Mine's also a 2017 RTL-T.
Looks great, well done on the bracket, I installed mine in a not great spot and now my hood prop flops around 🤦
Well good thing its not permanent and can be easily relocated.
@@YuriyMotso I've got the hood struts on order so problem solved? 🤣🤣🤣
Юрий ,объясни вобще зачем нужен на новой машине этот Oil Catch Can ?
I have added a link in my description that can fully describe the reason and benefits in greater detail. I have added this because I have read of people noticing a lot of oil being captured on this specific vehicle. I will put it to the test and follow up with results.
@@YuriyMotso Да я прочитал согласно твоего линка но я не думаю что на автомобиле С небольшим пробегом нужно это устройство спасибо
WHERE YOUR AEM COLD AIR INTAKE? GREAT VIDEO!
I'm running the AEM drop in. I need to make a follow up video. Sorry. AEM cold Air is good I just like the consistency of the drop in better.
@@YuriyMotso THANKS FOR ALWAYS RESPONDING TO THESE COMMENT THAT WE ALL SEND YOU.
Did you put your stock intake back on?
I am running the AEM drop in. I have not gotten around to doing a wrap up video. Hopefully I will.
@@YuriyMotso I wrapped the metal tube of the AEM with heat tape. Thought that would help keep the air flow in the metal tube cooler. Wish we could attach pictures to show…
You really don’t need the breather on top. It’s honestly ruining the pressure and the pcv valve is already taking care of that breather job
I didn’t use it. I showed it for install purposes. I believe I have it mentioned in the video in the step by step processes that it’s optional.