Forging a Wakizashi San Mai Sword - Part 1
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- Опубліковано 6 вер 2024
- In this new series I'll be forging a wakizashi sword from san mai damascus steel. In this first part we'll be forging the blade and grinding the bevels.
My Website: www.tyrellknife...
My Instagram: / tyrellknifeworks
Abrasives by Brodbeck Ironworks: brodbeckironwo...
Tools used in this video:
Wen Horizontal Bandsaw - amzn.to/3nS7Vzi
Titanium 200 Welder: amzn.to/3jkqNoQ
Propane Torch kit: amzn.to/3oT3JyF
5" Vice: amzn.to/34PvAsF
Bosch 4.5" Angle Grinder: amzn.to/36I2tbA
Norton abrasives 3-pack 36 grit: amzn.to/3hlqeKF
Blue Dykem: amzn.to/2WQ4k8Q
Digital Calipers: amzn.to/3aHSdD3
Any particular parts of this build I should be concerned about? Any suggestions for the design of tsuba or menuki?
You right that the grind of the blade bevel transitions into the tang. I think you need to adjust that tang grind, that 2/3 - 1/3 ratio needs to be in the tang as well otherwise you will habe problems to slide on the habaki.
Nice built btw.
The tang tapers so I don’t think I’ll need the exact same bevel on it though. We’ll see when I fit the habaki. 👍
@@TyrellKnifeworks yes please let me know. I was in Japan in 2018 twice and saw a lot of Katanas, Wakizashis and Tantos (Japaneses Sword museum and the weapons section of the national gallery) Pretty much all had the bevel and espcially the ridge line (for the lack of a better word) extended into the tang. The tangs where bevelled but very slightly. I hope this link opens it clearly shows the geometry of the tang. images.app.goo.gl/yz1LMqsu6W5QyFKn6
On the other hand you are the maker and will be able to adjust at any time
When making the handle the glue line should be offset to one side so its less likely to split while in use
@@Joker-em6oz thanks, I’ll keep that in mind. 👍
I searched the entire Internet in search of a drawing of wakizashi, and it turns out there is a detailed instruction on my favorite UA-cam channel and I have already watched it before. Thank you for the video and for your work! I will continue forging tomorrow.
I suggest you checkout my Knifeprint episode this Saturday. I’ll be doing a deep dive on designing a tanto and all the traditional fittings. Turning that into a wakizashi is trivial. All my designs are also available to my Patreon members. Thanks for watching.
@@TyrellKnifeworks I will definitely look! I watch all the videos that come out on the channel. Thanks!
Found it Boss. Was preoccupied watching all your Triple-T videos. Amazing content. I'm here to stay. Some of the best content I've ever seen. Thank you
Thanks so much! I appreciate you following the channel!
Man, that looks ecellent!
Thanks! It’s been super fun so far!
@@TyrellKnifeworks Thanks again, sir. I am present at your CHANNEL. and don't forget to come to my channel. greeting hobbies. 🙏🙏🙏
Can't wait to see how this turns out, should be interesting. Love the look of San Mai. So far it's looking sweet. Hope all is well, take it easy
Thanks Dave! This one is really fun so far. The hard work is all to come though!
Maaan! This is going to be a gorgeous blade! I love Japanese style knives!
Will stick to these series for sure!
Nice Intro by the way!
Thanks for joining us on this one! I hope it turns out as nice as I want it! 🤞
I am surprised you didn't do the traditional folding technique that I have seen others do.
Traditional folding of steel is when you use tamahagane steel and the folding is to remove impurities. Since this is already pure solid steel, there's really no need. Folding does not make the steel stronger. I decided to do a san mai on this one to impart some flexibility into it. Thanks for watching.
Very excited to see the final outcome of your design and work
Thanks for watching!
Super cool Denis! Grinding the bevel into the tang is a strange feeling! I did the on my puukko build and it was weird, worked out great just had to think through it. 🤣😂dude your building a Japanese sword and you think you won't have keyboard warriors injecting opinion on how your not building it correctly😂😂
Haha, I’m sure they’ll be lots of opinions. I’m having fun with it so it’s cool. 😜
Screw ‘em! Let them try and better it! 👍🏻👊🏻
Yup, true that! 👍
lol How Dare you use your own tools and materials and time to make it how you want!
I am going to shock them keyboard warriors with my wakizashi! They will be screaming from the highest mountain top! Shoot they will probably try to ban me from social media🤣😂🤣
Had to come back and see how much steel you used. I’m going to make the mandolins dark saber with 15n20 and 1084. But I was going to stack it with 3 really thick layers. But this seems to be a much safer option. Less chance of getting the core steel off center. Long forge welds scare me, but if it’s completely sealed then there shouldn’t be any issue. Glad I remembered this video. 😉
I’m glad it helped you, Erik! 👍
That is awesome as hell so far. Can't wait to see you advance more on it. Great video sir
Thanks for watching!
Nicely done, and I appreciate why you used mild steel cladding over the 15N20. That pattern from the mild steel is very interesting, hope it sticks around after your final grind!
I did an etch after the grind and it looks pretty cool! We’ll see if it sticks. Thanks for watching!
Neat so far, Denis! A long freehand grind like that must be pretty nerve wracking! 😱
🇬🇧🤜⚡️🤛🇨🇦
Yeah it was! It was still easier than doing the cleaver though. 🤣
Kudos to you for doing it “the right way” but most of those complaining about things not being done “the right way” can’t themselves do things “the right way”, nor do they understand the mechanics behind the “right way” and why it isn’t necessary with modern material and technology.
Yeah, everyone seems to have an opinion on these swords. That’s fine, it’s been a fun build regardless. Thanks for following along!
On traditional Japanese blades, the bevel does indeed extend into the tang, so that is correct. I’m quite concerned about the mild steel San mai though. While it will certainly achieve the goal of being more flexible, it will also stay where it flexes because mild steel doesn’t “spring back in place”. That’s why it’s really best to do a differential heat treat on a harder steel, or use a really good spring steel. In this case where you aren’t doing a differential heat treat, using something like 5160 as your cladding would have been more ideal. Either way, it’s looking good, I’m glad to see more and more people trying Japanese blades. Good job and good luck!
I assume you’re saying the differential heat treat would still leave the outside harder than mild steel and thus a bit springy. It still has the hard core so hopefully that’s springy enough with the mild on either side. We’ll see I guess. Thanks for the input!
wakis dont 'spring back into place'...
Awe yeah! Here we go!
😜. Thanks for watching and supporting the channel! 👍
@@TyrellKnifeworks keep up the good work! I started one of these but never finished. I need a lot more practice. And also I need to realize I don't have to forge the whole thing 100%.
@@nevermore1045 forge what you’re comfortable with. I would normally forge something like this a lot more but because it’s San mai, you risk screwing up how centered the core is. I’d rather grind most of my San mai’s.
@@TyrellKnifeworks I will try this technique. Thanks for the tips!
@@nevermore1045 Glad I could help! Send me a pic when you’re done! 😉
Well done mate!
Thanks David! Checkout the rest of the build series as well. Some cool builds coming up too!
@@TyrellKnifeworks Sure Thanks for sharing!!
thats so cool, it looks amazing already
Thanks Shaun! I hope it looks good in the end. 🤞
Are your measurements and tapers accurate? I think Walter sorrells might be happy to help with that. It's an ambitious project.Cheers man, I'll continue binge watching later. Also: it is the correct way to also bevel the tang on any japanese swords. The tang is also where you would traditionally engrave your makers mark since the handle would be swapped out every few generations. this area if the blade would never ever be cleaned up or de rusted, to not touch that makers mark. That is fortunate because that's a great way for historians now to date historical pieces. Funny how you found out yourself how to bevel the tang.
Like I said, I learned a lot. I did a lot of research when I profiled that blade in knifeprint so I'm confident it is within general parameters of a wakizashi. I did learn as I went on things like the bevel on the tang. 😜
What you did wrong is....lol just kidding man. I have no idea, but I love where you're going with it. It's gunna be beautiful
Thanks Nate, I’m enjoying this build! 😁
Very cool! Hope to see if that banding remains also
Thanks Ryan! I like how it’s going so far. 👍
Sweet!! Smart steel choice and yeah you’ll get some banding with mild. I wanna cut things with it!😂
Thanks! It should be a fun cut test! 🤣
Good call on the bevels in the tang...traditionally the entire blade from end to end was beveled and in some historical examples I've seen there often wasnt a DEFINED "shoulder" separating the blade and ang areas. I did find it interesting you "discovered" the need/reason behind the bevelling of the tang. Knowing Japanese blades they "discovered" this also and hence the traditional bevelling of the tang.
Yeah, I knew the seppa had the shape of the bevel on it so therefore the habaki had to as well and beveling the tang seemed the only way to get it on and off. It was fun to figure it out. 😉
Sometimes the fuller also continues all the way down the tang
Amazing
Thanks for checking it out!
@@TyrellKnifeworks Thanks again, sir. I am present at your CHANNEL. and don't forget to come to my channel. greeting hobbies. 🙏🙏🙏
I love San mai blades. Particularly ones with a softer steel jacket. But that long of a blade has me concerned it’s going to look like a banana after quenching. Although it’s usually fixable but it can be a gamble.
Yeah, we’ll see. The quench is definitely a worry for me.
Honsanmai kobuse or soshu kitae generally work better
Whoa, awesome!!
Thanks Drew!
I’ve used mild steel that has a dendritic look to it when etched. Not all of it has it so it’s always a surprise, good or bad.
Yup, it looks pretty cool so I hope it comes through in the final. Thanks for watching!
@@TyrellKnifeworks yah man. Love your content. Good old UA-cam algorithm.
Hello, just started knife making. I think I may attempt this build also. How thick was the billet after you finished forging it? if you have it somewhere else, apologies for missing it. Also, Great videos, thanks for posting
I'm pretty sure I mentioned in the video, but I don't quite remember. It was likely about 1/4" at its thickest. Thanks for watching.
@@TyrellKnifeworks awesome. Thanks. Looking forward to watching more of your content.
Have you ever tried a Teflon push stick for your method of grinding it works great.
No, I haven’t tried that. I like the control of my hand though. Thanks for watching!
@@TyrellKnifeworks I used to do it the same way You should try to stick once you’ll love it
@@rickhall1381 I’ll have to check it out! 👍
The "banding" you are seeing could be some carbon migration from the 15N20 into the mild..
Hmm, I’m not so sure. It was near the spine away from the edge and I know what carbon migration typically looks like and it wasn’t this. I wish I could have gotten a better picture. If I see it after the final grinding I’ll get a pic with my camera instead of the video camera.
@@TyrellKnifeworks yeah I couldn'treall see the banding on my phone at all so I wasnt sure what you were seeing on your end.
Say what?!?! You didn't start out by making your own bloomery steel? That's not traditional! Just kidding. Looking great so far. Looking forward to seeing you tackling the hibaki. I've seen some rather nice ones made simply by shaping copper pipe.
I don’t think I’m gonna get too fancy on the habaki. I have some cool plans for the menuki though! I’ll save the bloom steel for the next project. 🤣
Awesome work. But when u make that effort to make it traditional so viewers cant have many objectios then why dont do it with tamahagane?
A couple reasons I didn't use tamahagane... first, I don't have any or access to any. Second, it's actually really crappy steel compared to today's modern steel. The main reason traditional tamahagane is folded so many times is to remove the rampant impurities in it. Although people like to glamorize the steel, it is in fact very inferior. What people don't remember in history is that the battlefields were littered with broken katanas. 😏. Thanks for watching
You are amazing
Thanks so much! I appreciate you watching.
I am watching your video because all your videos are unique and you deserve to be supported , in the past I had a problem with you because of one of your videos about ( film of 300) and then we discussed it and it's been sorted out, it was only a misunderstanding issue , but now I am happy to be one of your membership. I wish the best for you and you have to know that I learned a lot from you.
I am watching your video because this is unique and you deserve to be supported
@@user-rm5rq3ix8p Thank you! I appreciate that.
Note, your last reply was flagged because it had an email address in it so I removed it. I don't really do custom orders, I focus on builds for YT and just sell what I make for the channel. My builds go up for sale to Patreon members first, so you could consider joining. Thanks.
You kidding me ☺️ This is the interweb!!!!! You could have a 5th Generation Japanese Grand Master make it and you would have 50 keyboard cowboys tell you your wrong... Just enjoy yourself and don't take yourself to seriously... Cool build already.
Yup, so true! 🤣. I’m having fun with it so it’s cool.
Hard to tell so far but was you seeing carbon migration? Looking really good so far!
Hey Chuck... I did a little test etch and I was seeing some carbon migration and it looks pretty cool. Not a ton of the core exposed yet so its hard to tell but I think it'll look good! Thanks for watching!
How come you're not going to differentially harden it?
Because I’m using mild steel cladding. There’s no point in differential my hardening it, the jacket won’t harden anyway. Thanks for watching.
@@TyrellKnifeworks fair, but even traditionally swords with iron cladding were differentially hardened for aesthetic purposes and to give the curvature to the blade.
This is a San mai, so it already has an aesthetic line like a hamon. I wouldn’t want a real hamon on top of that, it would look confusing. Also since the mild steel isn’t going to move much, I doubt you’d get any curvature. A differential heat treat on this blade doesn’t make any sense.
Dumb question... where do you get your metal slates from?
Sorry, what slates are you referring to? Do you mean the steel it was made with? I get most of my blade steel from Jantz Supply.
@@TyrellKnifeworks Right, the steel used to craft the blade. Thank you.
Can I order 1 of your amazing knife?
Sorry, Oivier, I don’t take orders. What I make goes up on my website (link in every video description). My entire inventory is going to the blade show next month. Check after that. Thanks for watching.
Just here to say “You didn’t do it the right way man”🤪
Sorry, some folks beat you to it already, as i foretold. 😜
@@TyrellKnifeworks F*CK the toxic animaniac pseudo-knowledge magical japanese sword worshippers! Katana and Wakizashi are STYLES; blades of certain shape, geometry and form. Like a Longsword, a Rapier, a Cutlass, a Kopis, a Falcata - doesnt matter where and how it was made. The dumba**es will NEVER get the difference between katana and NIHONTO. Its just like climate and weather... soe just lack brain capacity to check through it. Great job!
I’m pretty sure HallMade was joking but I get what you’re saying. It’s cool, people seem to have opinions about this sword. 🤷♂️
Wakizashi carve mm
Omg
Thanks for checking out this series!
Эх. Надо было добавить немножко никеля.
Спасибо за просмотр
💪🤙🤙🤙
Thanks for watching!
ok , you have it backwards , the mild steel should be the core , and the skin steel hard
Well that makes zero sense, sorry. You need the hard steel in the core on your cutting edge.
@@TyrellKnifeworks no , you need the hard steel as the skin steel for your cutting edge , the soft steel as the core steel for flexibility .... 1000 years of japanese sword making technique ... do your research ... I have a stack of books on the subject
You are missing some key info here. Traditional Japanese blades folded the steel to homogenize the carbon in the steel. Yes they started with lower carbon steel for the core but it was folded with the other steel. Using mild steel in a San mai with high carbon in a modern way would be a terrible idea. There would be zero edge retention and it would dull on every single strike.
@@TyrellKnifeworks let me know how the blade fairs after 4 cuts through 8 inch tatami target ... if it holds it's edge and doesn't need a polish , I'll be surprised , but will bow to your knowledge
It’s already cut through several tatami mats, water jugs, wood and other stuff and is still razor sharp. If it were mild steel, the edge would be totally gone. Thanks for watching.
Template download
Give it a try! Thanks for watching.
The 15n20 and the mild steel are not going to contrast each other for shit . that makrs no sense lmao
Well I can already see the line clearly so I’m sure it will. Thanks for watching.
@@TyrellKnifeworks Always a good idea to wait and see how things turn out before passing judgement, IMHO.
Great advice! 👍
I believe the point isnt a black and white contrast but something more subtle
@@Joker-em6oz boo
Amazing
Thanks for watching!