How To Replace Motor Coupler--Whirlpool Direct-Drive Washer
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- Опубліковано 2 жов 2024
- Originally recorded September 6, 2016.
This video chronicles the repair procedure for a broken motor coupler on a Whirlpool Direct-Drive washer. The job is very simple to do, and will get your washing machine working again in very short order. No special tools are required, most households will already have the tools necessary to perform this repair.
Special thanks to Sharkie626 for his collaboration in this effort!
/ sharkie626
60 year old woman here ( granted I used to be a subcontractor), but I followed your video to the T, and then put it together again, wouldn't work. Took it apart and noticed I hadn't connected a teeny tiny ground wire with the electrical harness on the motor. Put it back together, and Viola, works like a charm! Thank you!
You are very welcome Valerie! I am so happy to hear that! I love hearing of people who have become empowered by my videos to do the job themselves, and get it done without much trouble. The ground wire could have simply been an honest mistake or something you overlooked. No harm done, it's back together, and working once again. To be quite honest, although you're still plenty young, it very well may outlast you! Excellent job!
@@jaykay18 No offense, but I sure hope not, lol!
@@valeriewells5767 These were some of the best washers ever made. You cannot buy any washer today that can perform like it, at any price. Forget "technology", all it does is foul things up. Ever notice how anything that says "Old Fashioned" is so good? Yeah, there's a good reason. Or like Breyer's Ice Cream's old slogan, "Taste, Not Technology". Well yeah, it used to be, not anymore. Trust me, you did the best thing ever by fixing your machine, and they're super reliable, easy to repair, and perform like no other.
Thank you Mr. jaykay, the coupler on mine was starting to break, I searched up for similar buzzing sounds, and when I heard this one buzz I knew exactly the issue. The part is now replaced with your video to thank and I can be confident my machine can remain in service now another 21 years
I'm thrilled to hear that! Very glad my video was of help to you in repairing it, and I'm also glad you decided to repair it. You've made the right choice, it most certainly won't give you trouble for the next 21 years, unlike any modern washer!
Yes. I never cared until my brother bought a Samsung side loader replacing a GE with the weird looking plastic tub. and I realized the big corperations are lying about saving water when it does 6 rinses and saving electricity when it runs on average 3 hours. It's 4 years old but has had 9 service runs done to it, next time I'll be heading a few towns over to a place I know carries old style machines such as mine. I expect it to be another 2 months before it's next and last visit from the service dude.
I've never had to fix anything else except the water drain pump, just last year. since I have a single piece agitator, agitator dogs are no worry. Even though from what I can tell those are no hassle to fix.
@@micheal9503 Ha ha, yep, he fell for it. You've got a good head on your shoulders to realize it's all hype and there are no savings, in fact, waste! I've had to do 2 sets of agitator dogs on my own washer, total repair cost was $4 each time. You can't beat that!
@@jaykay18 It appears that way. I was always suspicious of it, so when it started breaking down I decided to list the parts that got replaced.
In it's first year, the pump sprung a leak, and the door lock stopped functioning. Second year in, the pump stopped working entirely, the main motherboard failed, and it also developed a seemingly unfixable off balance issue that was eventually fixable. Then in it's 3rd year, the big weird plate looking motor died, and another main circut board failed. Then this year, the pump died, AGAIN, and the door seal had to be replaced as it was apparently cracking. What a ride this had been.. I could only imagine the repair bills to date
Thank you, Sir. Truly appreciate your video. I thought I was going to have to replace Old Reliable but decided to see if there might be a bit of info on UA-cam. It's a 30+ year old Kenmore so I didn't expect to find anything useful. Did find your video, though and I've just ordered the part. Fully expect to have Old Reliable back on the job again in about a week. Thanks again. Be safe. God bless.
Thanks Edwin! I'm sure you'll have no trouble replacing it. And--you made the best decision. There's a very good reason you call it Old Reliable, and it will serve you very well for many more years to come!
My washer broke a coupe of days ago, and it was a broken motor coupling. I wouldn't have fixed it without you guys! Thank you and Merry Christmas!! 🎄🦌
Thanks Carrie! Merry merry, have an extra round of egg nog on me!
Direct drives, yes please!
Another one saved!
The classic direct drive, so simple to repair, and so simple to diagnose. Its like, you can tell a problem by sight and sound. On an HE machine, you have to run diagnostic mode, then grab the code sheet, then find out your problem, then replace the part, then test the thing. Its so complicated, I think the most frequent repair on a direct drive is the agitator dogs, the most common repair on an HE machine would be replacing the entire damn thing.
You got that exactly right!
Its like, this ended as a $12 repair, and in total took maybe what, like 35 minutes. Then on an LG, you have to take apart the cabinet piece by piece because the suspension is ON the cabinet, because that makes sense. Then you probably have to lay the damn thing down, make sure you don't harm any of the circutboards, the insides of these new washers are damn minefields. No wonder they are so explosive.
Har har.
notice how the basket is supported from the bottom rather than the top
Yes, what a concept!
I replaced the coupler and clutch. Still getting the same sound, would the motor be the issue? Great video!
Take a good, close look at that motor shaft. It may be rounded out, especially if the motor coupler has the metal insert.
@@jaykay18 the motor coupler fits extremely snug, not rounded - I have it apart again now, I kept the motor and drive connected and it seems to be connected correctly - same sound I was getting before the replacement.
@@nicholasavignonesr2764 You can run the machine without the drain pump, take that off as a quick check to see if it still makes the sound. Otherwise the problem may be downstream of the motor coupler, could be anything. I can guess as well as you can. I've also seen a bad motor or bad capacitor cause an issue.
@@jaykay18 appreciate your prompt response and feedback! Thank you sir!
@@nicholasavignonesr2764 No problem, good luck.
Yay glad it is finally up :D
Aside from a couple of things here and there, This really wasn't all that bad to do.
Biggest problems were accessibility, filth in that basement, and the case. Generally everyone will have those problems.
thank you man!
You're very welcome!
Some idiots think that their direct drive washer is "broken" when the coupler/coupling goes bad, so they replace it with an "HE" washer. How pathetic!
They don't know any better. They're deluded by the BS claims of HE and saving water and electricity, so they get suckered in and buy.
My aunt fell for it. She replaced it with Samsung junk. I hate having to tell her the truth. I am telling her when it breaks.
Some people are going to do what they want to do, no matter what. Some people will listen to your advice but not take it. Those that take your advice are the smart ones.
But you have to realize that it's really human nature--advice is very easy to give but not that easy to take. I don't know how old you are, but if you're young still, you'll never get listened to, the grown-ups think they know better. Many times, they don't.
This is so stupid!
Love that kine! One less DD that would have gone to waste!
If you wouldn't have swooped in, it probably would have been thrown away for an HE Machine! Bye, HE: Highly Erratic.
I meant btw not bye
I will do everything in my power to save any ailing DD. HE Hardly Efficient.
It think HE machines can catch fire when they break down.
Jason Hernandez Halt and catch fire!
After replacing this part, once I started the machine, it smelled like rubber was burning.. any thoughts On why
The question is, did the machine otherwise operate normally? If so, it's possible that was remnants from the old one. Otherwise, you're going to want to open it back up and check your work, and check for wear on the rubber.
20:46 Oh it went into spin, that’s it, video over, we got to shut the machine down, throw it away, and replace it with a Millenniwasher.
That's the ticket!
Here's how it cost my to say hello to the direct drive repairman aka you and sharkie626. practically free. just had to spend 15 seconds on an ad.
Not to mention paying $250 to just say hello to a repairman whose only job is to tell you that your machine is not repairable.
That's VERY true!
este video es perfecto.tremendo,muy bien esplicado.gracias..WEE PUERTO RICO.
De nada.
So always well overloaded and left well off balance. Do you know how often the machine is ran weekly?
At least 2 or 3 times. Each of my machines get 1 load per week, if that much! Sometimes we'll go 2 weeks before they get used.
We run ours twice a week, all in one shot, handling pretty light loads, and short cycles. But when it comes time for towel week, even then it doesn't deal with any overloads and that usually ends up as its largest load.
Awesome good news! yeah i agree brand new washing machine are piece of junk except of Speed Queen
Correct! SQ is the only good machine left. But nothing like fixing your old machine to the tune of 6 bucks!
yep :)
thank you!! Great instructions along with tips that made it a ton easier.
@@osumikey5 You're welcome.
Excellent. Thank you. You answered every question I had.👍
You're welcome.
Hi could I just pick your brain? I cant seem to remove the white coupler pieces at all. The are really really stuck. Any other ideas I might try?
@@MariaDias-fh5uo Let me get you some gloves first, it's a dirty mind!
Since you're replacing the coupler anyway, use any means necessary to remove them. Break them, who cares, they are being replaced.
great video , really appreciate you guys thjanks !
Sure thing, no problem!
20:44 it should not spin drain because it was enough agitation time
Apparently not long enough.
@@jaykay18 It seems more likely that it slipped into spin due to the transmission being cold (so the oil inside being thicker and stuff), The whirlpool service manual states that only 10 seconds of agitation (fast agitation) is needed to properly engage the neutral drain mechanism.
@@OpenGL4.6 10 seconds under ideal laboratory conditions. On paper, it sounds great. In real life, it acts differently.
Did you oil the motor? Looked a little stiff.
No, no need. I've never actually seen one of these that needed oiling. They are induction motors, which typically means heavier-duty to start with, so the bearings are in good shape and still smooth.
Wasn't stiff at all! Turned very easily.
Sounds good. My first instinct is to oil things. You guys did a great job!
Bob Loom Thanks Bob!
Hello again Jay, I just did this to my new Kenmore 80 series I just saved from the trash, it now spins and agitates but it makes a really loud squealing sound when running, would you have any ideas as to why that could be? It didn’t make the sound before I replaced the coupler, I followed this video to the fullest extent and everything is placed in correctly and it has the correct coupler replacement. I uploaded a video today on my channel of the sound if you’d like to hear it, but cannot figure it out after taking it back apart again and it still makes the sound. Thank you for such a perfect video on how to do this, just wish I could figure out this noise.
The newest video on your channel was posted 9 days ago. You had that and another one of the machine doing a neutral drain, sounded fine on both of those.
My recommendation, without seeing anything, is to unclip the drain pump and pull it away from the motor, then run the machine again and see if it still makes the noise. If so, it's not the drain pump. Is it possible one of the motor bearings is screwed and that's why it's squealing (even though it was fine before)? Unlikely, but possible. To test that, you'd unbolt the motor from the machine and run it again with no load on it. If there's still noise, I'd have to hear it to know.
@@jaykay18 My apologies, I should of stated in there before that it was a short that I uploaded today which is why you didn’t see it, not a regular video, a short, it’s up though to listen to, I’ve never heard a machine like this make this noise. Thank you, that’s the next thing I was going to try out.
@@Goldenwoodz I have no use for shorts, didn't think to check it. But now I've seen it. Indeed, that is a very strange noise. The pump could easily make that noise. The pump spins in one direction while neutral draining and spinning, and when agitating, it spins in the other direction. You can actually see the pump pump AIR into the machine during the agitation, with the cabinet off, because it's spinning backwards and sucking air. If the pump is shot, that could definitely be it. Other thing it might be is the coupler on the transmission shaft, is it indeed installed flush with the shaft as shown? If it's driven too far on, it might rub, and that could cause the noise. I know you said you did it properly, but double check while the motor is out. Just in case something went awry.
Another thing you might be able to try, with the motor removed, is to spin the coupler on the transmission by hand, which will be slow of course, but it may help you to pinpoint the source of the noise.
@@jaykay18 Neither do I, I am not a fan of these new shorts. You were exactly correct, it’s the pump. Washer runs perfectly without the pump on, and makes no strange sounds at all, so will be ordering a new pump for her. It’s got the original pump still…I already had the coupler on hand since I accidentally ordered it long ago, and my neighbors were about to throw this machine away and I saw the underneath and said absolutely not happening, transmission looks and operates like new still as for the clutch as well. Thank you so very much.
@@Goldenwoodz That's the best news I've heard all day! Been having kind of a crummy day today, made me feel a lot better to know that what I said was correct! Even better for you, since pumps are cheap and readily available. Pumps today are typically knockoffs; they work fine and pump fine, but be prepared for a small leak. Sometimes the diameter of the pump inlet and outlet ports are ever so slightly off. If it leaks, reposition the hose and/or clamp and you should be good. Worst case, you can use some RTV silicone on it.
beautiful! nice and fix!
That's the only proper thing TO do!
Good job on the video but, my washing machine Kenmore 110.92291100 just stays after is done washing with the close and water in the tub. Just sitting there and wont start rinse cycle. It does not start spinning and no noise. Can you help, Please.
Possible bad timer or bad motor. The motor runs both backwards and forwards, depending on whether the washer is to agitate or drain/spin.
Thank You so much, It is old, how old I can remember so, maybe is time to replace the unit. Be safe out there...
You're better off fixing it. New machines will definitely cost more, won't wash well at all, and you'll end up in the same boat just with a lot less money in your wallet. ua-cam.com/video/Rju3cHaAyek/v-deo.html
Thank you very much. You helped me. Great video!!😊😊
You're very welcome!
Good job
Thank you.
Will it still make that same sound if the 6 fingers are broken?
It's rare that will happen. The fingers are mounted in rubber so usually they don't break, and instead you see a failure like this. The new ones though, like the one it was replaced with, are metal-reinforced in the center. Typically they don't shear or break, the transmission does.
Thank you for this video. One question before I test my washer, should you be able to turn the motor by hand before putting the last piece with the 2 hoses on it? I had to use vice grips which I assume I shouldn't have had to.
If you're just trying to grip that motor shaft with your hand, there's no way you're going to turn it by hand, it needs a tool for leverage.
Generally when a motor coupler breaks, it's either due to old age (the plastic gets old and brittle), or the machine was overloaded. Worst case scenario when you put it back together, the new coupler will break immediately. If that happens, there's a much more serious problem with the machine. The likelihood of that, however, is very small.
What happened with this? Did it work with being unable to turn the motor shaft by hand? The same thing has happened with me and I don't know if its ok to put it all back together or not.
@@jaykay18but weren't you turning it by hand in the video?
@@nikkifachik Yes, it was just fine.
Better than the "professionals" who ruin new appliances than fix them!
Way better, a job done right!
@@jaykay18 Whirlpool engineers must've thought of the direct drive technology as it has no belts or pulleys! They were way ahead of their time in my opinion.
@@jeromedavis8575 I cannot say that this was the first. Automatic washers were becoming popular in the 1950s, the diect drive design came out in the 80s, so there were a good 20-30 years of design and development. While quite a number of machines used belts, I couldn't imagine there wasn't another direct drive type unit out there before. When you really do think about it, what does it actually cost to manufacture a motor coupler? A lot less than the cost of metal pulleys and a belt. So in my eyes, it was actually a cost-saving measure.
@@jaykay18 At least Whirlpool put quality first.
@@jeromedavis8575 Quality used to matter to a lot of companies. Not anymore.
Do you think I could be having the same issue and fix the same way? I loaded 1 super heavy blanket and mid wash cycle, the agitator began spinning only clockwise and it tangled the blanket. I unloaded it and try it with nothing in it, and it still only turns right during the wash cycle.
I'm not exactly certain what "only spins clockwise" means. Typically a broken motor coupler will elicit no agitation and no spin whatsoever, but the washer will drain, which is how I diagnosed this one: ua-cam.com/video/SkGfUuGDGEc/v-deo.html
Is it possible you can post a video showing the problem? With that I could probably tell you what the problem is.
@@jaykay18 yes, ill try to get a video for you in a minute. I'm trying to figure out how to keep it running with he lid up. The little hole other washers have where u can put a screw driver isn't there so im assuming its where the lid is actually screwed on. I'll let u know when u have the vide
@@jaykay18 okay, apparently the to by pass the switch i need to take the top part off and i dont know how to do that -so I did my best to show you the issue, so what is happening is that it sounds like the agitator is going back and forth as it should but when I open it, everything, water clothes,, agitator is only spinning to the right and the clothes is tangled around the agitator. When the issue first appeared yesterday, I was washing blankets and sheets and all them were tightly wrapped around the agitator completely tangled. This happens during the regular wash cycle. So i had to turn it off, untangle them which was super difficult and then just switch to the draining part to get all the water out.. It does correctly drain and the tub spins to get the excess water out.
The washer is not as loud as it is now either.
ua-cam.com/video/v2q3t1KNSIA/v-deo.html
@@jaykay18 i only added small items to demonstrate because untangling the heavy sheets its a real pain lol
@@jaykay18 here is another short clip, I dont know if this is related at all, but you can see the agitator cant be turned to the left at all. It only goes right. The washer on the right is my neighbors and I noticed I am able to turn the agitator either way with little effort.
ua-cam.com/video/AXyL648UmPo/v-deo.html
Has the motor ever been replaced in this machine? For some reason it doesn't look original.
Legend has it that this machine has had every part on it replaced at least twice, as allegedly it was a lemon from the get-go. I have no proof of this legend, but based on the fact that the screws to secure the motor holding clips are missing, the motor was at least removed from this machine before. If it was replaced, it was while the machine was still new.
I was surprised to see the motor's design myself. Apparently that kind of design does exist, but I am guessing they were only used for a short period of time, because our 1990 machine, and the 2010 machine my bro used to have, all had the other motor design.
+Sharkie626 I thought the motor was replaced because of that design as I've never seen a DD motor with that design before.
Andrew Gallucci I guess they had a couple different designs over the years, but all seemed to be rock solid reliable.
jaykay18 That proves the quality of the DD washers!