I find this pattern to be more interesting because of the knee space where you can add some buffer for when you want to kneel down and have something soft for your knee, would be nice to implement this to the other patterns
This is the reason I'll be buying this pattern. I'll add some dragon esc styling to match the Fantasy armor better, but I'm really needing the knee space.
It would look sharp and is definitely doable. Any of my designs can be stiched instead of riveting. I just assume riveting is easier for most people so that's what I try to make this beginner friendly content around.
Ruin? no, but depending on how much dye you use, it will soften the leather and it can collapse on you, but if you tend to the leather as it dries you can prevent this and reshape it as it dries. Typically most of the hard work is in the wet forming to start to stretch the leather. Resetting it to the desired shape after that is easier as long as it doesn't dry in a collapsed position. If you're concerned about it, one tip that can help with this is to make sure your molded piece is bone dry, then dye it in sections, like just dye the back half, let it dry, then the front, and let it dry, and touch up if needed. Then you don't have to worry about it ever reaching full saturation and getting too soft.
I find this pattern to be more interesting because of the knee space where you can add some buffer for when you want to kneel down and have something soft for your knee, would be nice to implement this to the other patterns
This is the reason I'll be buying this pattern. I'll add some dragon esc styling to match the Fantasy armor better, but I'm really needing the knee space.
Prints arm ere. Everything you do is simply awesome dude. No disrespect.
Nice, a lot of space there for tooling.
Yeah, its a blank canvas.
Would it affect the shape of the greaves if I were to sew them instead of using rivets.
Loving it. You are a rock star...
Thanks!
Wonder this would look double stitched in place of being riveted.
It would look sharp and is definitely doable. Any of my designs can be stiched instead of riveting. I just assume riveting is easier for most people so that's what I try to make this beginner friendly content around.
did you make the part that cover the foot? thanks.
Yes, there are various options available for sabatons in the academy. The fantasy series sabaton could fit with this theme well enough.
does the top coat automatically act like a resist?
Question, after I've tooled and molded the leather to shape and allowed it to dry, does dying it ruin the mold?
Ruin? no, but depending on how much dye you use, it will soften the leather and it can collapse on you, but if you tend to the leather as it dries you can prevent this and reshape it as it dries. Typically most of the hard work is in the wet forming to start to stretch the leather. Resetting it to the desired shape after that is easier as long as it doesn't dry in a collapsed position. If you're concerned about it, one tip that can help with this is to make sure your molded piece is bone dry, then dye it in sections, like just dye the back half, let it dry, then the front, and let it dry, and touch up if needed. Then you don't have to worry about it ever reaching full saturation and getting too soft.
please samurai armor body whit leather
how do you print the pattern its not like your other ones
watch the other video tutorials in the series and the getting started guides at our academy
How long is the sale price for the warrior bundle good for? Would love to get and make it, but it will be next month befor I can.