As a student of the academy, I'm learning that watching all of the videos, regardless of what stage, or project I'm on helps with knowledge and questions that have come up in my lessons... I'm really enjoying the lessons and videos, and being apart of the prince armory academy
I really appreciate the fact you don't edit out some of the "mistakes" you make. It's great to know that even pros aren't perfect. Like almost forgetting to dye the pieces at 5:14 . Feels like something I'd totally do.
If you can't get/afford Chicago screws in the needed quantity, or like me have an overabundance of double-capped rivets, try a shim between the scales when setting a rivet. Just take a piece of 2-4 oz. leather and punch a hole as far back from the edge as the diameter of the cap. Cut a slot the diameter of the stem from the hole to the edge of the leather. Leave enough tab sticking out the other way to keep ahold of and place it between the scales. When the rivet is set, pull out the tab and the point should now flex. This is also how I did a lot of metal hinge points for armor.
I endorse this advice for small parts like gauntlet fingers, I've done the same there. But, for any hinge joints that are in any way load-bearing, I really do not suggest rivets, not double-capped rivets anyway. copper rivets, standard peened rivets can work though.
Want to craft this piece in the tutorial? ♞ Get the Pattern HERE: bit.ly/IK-Sabatons ♞ Thanks for watching! Are you looking forward to the next tutorials? What videos and topics do you want to see when we finish the Armor series?
Big fan, sir. I've been enjoying your work since I found you on DA back in 2011ish! Awesome to see how far you've come. I'd love to see you tackle Thranduil's battle armor! And if we're going with video games, I'd vote to see your take on the Ancient Elven armor or Dwarven Massive plate armor from Dragon Age Origins! Excited to see whatever you decide to make next!
Up to 11 works no problem by my own testing, I haven't had any need to go that thick myself on it yet, but I suspect it should be fine, it just will take longer
It's certainly possible but I feel like there are so many that do only that genre I'm not sure my contribution would be that significant here. But if there is a demand for it, why not?
Why do you wet the pieces before beveling? I have always thought that beveling could be done wet or dry, and by doing it dry I reduce the risk of imprinting the pieces by accident (dropping a tool on it, stray fingernail, etc)
I do it becuase you can emboss the leather at the same time as beveling. To say it another way, having it wet means I can compress the fibers for a smoother edge straight out of the cut
Question: In your tutorials, you always seem to smear the resist very liberally. I did that once on the female version of the fantasy armor and it dried and blotched all over my red dye. How come yours look so well finished and uniform when you apply and let it dry like this? Thank you for the cool video!
Practice and experience mainly. You have to babysit the finish while you are learning to get a feel for how it dries. Try some experiments with different techniques.
Another tip Jean-Marc, I use alcohol based dyes and they can be uneven and dry the leather out. However a liberal application of mink oil paste evens the dye and moisturizes the leather. (If you use alcohol based dyes)
I never try to cut leather with my laser, I just mark the pattern, then cut it with a knife. its really difficult to mess up if you do it that way. I'll make marks at a much lower energy setting than what I would need to cut through.
As a student of the academy, I'm learning that watching all of the videos, regardless of what stage, or project I'm on helps with knowledge and questions that have come up in my lessons... I'm really enjoying the lessons and videos, and being apart of the prince armory academy
I really appreciate the fact you don't edit out some of the "mistakes" you make. It's great to know that even pros aren't perfect. Like almost forgetting to dye the pieces at 5:14 . Feels like something I'd totally do.
I chuckled when he stopped the music for those 2 straps lol
If you can't get/afford Chicago screws in the needed quantity, or like me have an overabundance of double-capped rivets, try a shim between the scales when setting a rivet. Just take a piece of 2-4 oz. leather and punch a hole as far back from the edge as the diameter of the cap. Cut a slot the diameter of the stem from the hole to the edge of the leather. Leave enough tab sticking out the other way to keep ahold of and place it between the scales. When the rivet is set, pull out the tab and the point should now flex. This is also how I did a lot of metal hinge points for armor.
I endorse this advice for small parts like gauntlet fingers, I've done the same there. But, for any hinge joints that are in any way load-bearing, I really do not suggest rivets, not double-capped rivets anyway. copper rivets, standard peened rivets can work though.
Want to craft this piece in the tutorial? ♞ Get the Pattern HERE: bit.ly/IK-Sabatons ♞
Thanks for watching! Are you looking forward to the next tutorials? What videos and topics do you want to see when we finish the Armor series?
link off :c
Something's wrong here.
This is a 404 error,
@@cronos29 thanks! it was a typo
Big fan, sir. I've been enjoying your work since I found you on DA back in 2011ish! Awesome to see how far you've come. I'd love to see you tackle Thranduil's battle armor! And if we're going with video games, I'd vote to see your take on the Ancient Elven armor or Dwarven Massive plate armor from Dragon Age Origins! Excited to see whatever you decide to make next!
I love your stuff Mr. Prince
Thank you!
the masking tape peel off was 👌🏼👌🏼👌🏼
haha thanks!
What masking paper are you using?
I bought it probably 12 years ago so I don't recall. It's uncommon but not rare, there are many brands that make wide masking tape.
Wonderful as always! ♥♥
Thank you!
Looking good!
Thanks!
I took the model and printed it but the model is too small on the sheet so I wanted to know at what scale is it best to print the model?
So good. I knew this one guy Asmal who made some pretty good stuff but this is just on another level.
hmm
How does the glow forge fair with 12-14oz leather?
Up to 11 works no problem by my own testing, I haven't had any need to go that thick myself on it yet, but I suspect it should be fine, it just will take longer
@@Princearmory I do a lot of sca heavy armor that's why I ask. Is that a 40w laser?
Amazing! Where can I find that "forming dome"?
Which dome? You can find some examples listed at the academy site in the tool guide.
Would you consider doing some of the medieval spin offs like the batman superman ect.
Could you do some viking designs
It's certainly possible but I feel like there are so many that do only that genre I'm not sure my contribution would be that significant here. But if there is a demand for it, why not?
You are correct,but I feel you are very capable of putting your own Twist on it
Amazing
Thank you!
Very Nice!!!
Thanks
Why do you wet the pieces before beveling? I have always thought that beveling could be done wet or dry, and by doing it dry I reduce the risk of imprinting the pieces by accident (dropping a tool on it, stray fingernail, etc)
I do it becuase you can emboss the leather at the same time as beveling. To say it another way, having it wet means I can compress the fibers for a smoother edge straight out of the cut
Question: In your tutorials, you always seem to smear the resist very liberally. I did that once on the female version of the fantasy armor and it dried and blotched all over my red dye. How come yours look so well finished and uniform when you apply and let it dry like this? Thank you for the cool video!
Practice and experience mainly. You have to babysit the finish while you are learning to get a feel for how it dries. Try some experiments with different techniques.
@@Princearmory Thank you!
Another tip Jean-Marc, I use alcohol based dyes and they can be uneven and dry the leather out. However a liberal application of mink oil paste evens the dye and moisturizes the leather. (If you use alcohol based dyes)
I'm a huge fan of the Stargate franchise. I'd love to see some Jaffa armor.
Very cool!
hola el video está muy bueno 🤜🤛👍
👍
@@Princearmory me encantó el vídeo
I never try to cut leather with my laser, I just mark the pattern, then cut it with a knife. its really difficult to mess up if you do it that way. I'll make marks at a much lower energy setting than what I would need to cut through.
A valid strategy
Please please please make the nazgul/ringwreath armor from lord of the rings!!!
I'd like to see woman's corset armor builds in future video's
You might be pleasantly surprised very soon
Sabaton? In before the Winged Hasuars arrive
👍
isnt this called a "spat" (in terms of apparel)?
hey, spat is a word for a fight.
you made spat spats!
uh..
30th
👍