As always it was a pleasure working with you on this fantastic project great to see it bolted up where it belongs top video enjoyed every minuites of it 👍
Great video - just a couple of points: You used orange rear cover seals with pre-1966 convex covers; the orange seals are for the later concave covers - use cork gaskets for convex else they will leak oil. Also rotate the bypass hose clamps so the screws face the back, else if you ever need to change the water pump or bypass hose you won’t be able to get to the clamp screws after the engine is installed.
Cole, those tappet chest cover early type Swan neck which you are using in this video should be using a corked type of gasket. The rubber gasket are for a later Cooper S. The difference of this 2 types of Tappet chest cover are the thickness of the metal cover. It might leaked in later stages. Cheers mate .. Julian
Thanks for the cool video Cole! 👏😁 I hope the Mini Cooper S is soon back on the road, ready to drive. Hopefully there will be a detailed video with the owner about it then. 🤩 When I have to work on my Cooper S engine, I will consult the videos of Paul and you! Greetings from Germany. ✌😊
Cole, the oil feed to the rocker shaft on the AEG163 head flows up through the first rocker post. You show the original first rocker post at the second rocker post position, presumably because of MiniSpares rocker shaft locating screw at the second rocker post position. Did you drill the first rocker post and shaft to get the oil up to the rockers?
Only just found your site, I'm very familiar with HRE and I've commented on Pauls videos many times. Back in the day I used to work at BMC Competitions in Abingdon. We'd never have called any 1275 S an original one, they were 1071 or 990 the bigger engine was introduced in 1964. Did you use the competition C-AEG 399, later standard rocker shaft along with its associated modifications and extra AEG165 locking plate. Again these modifications because standard. Why didn't you strap the centre main bearing cap? This used to be standard practice. I agree with the comment about the water pump clip screws, put them the other way round so that you can access them. Do you know what crankshaft hardening was applied to your crank, the very early ones were the best several different processes were used. Good luck with the project.
More great content. I only have one nit to pick. The hose clamps for the water pump are too big. Need a smaller size to not have so much hanging out. Thanks again.
Hi Cole, great video, thanks. You and Paul are a remarkable source of how to work with these fantastic cars. One question, do you not use gasket sealant like Permatex at all?
Thank you! I do use permatex on almost all gaskets except the oil pump and head gasket. The ones at the top of the engine I left dry until the first start up. I have had to swap out thermostats and stuff after first assembly so I don’t wanna fight with my gaskets until I’m ready to seal it up for good.
Always a quality vid. Could not tell if you bolted the timing chain cover on tight or not. You probably already know that you want it floppy lose so that the pully centers on the seal in the timing chain cover. Otherwise it will leak.
So if I understand you correctly guys, the cover should be only tighten slightly, so the oil seal on the pulley can "adapt" to crank rotation? About to change it on my replacement 1275 soon :)
@@michalchlup6758 Yup tighten it up so its just a little looser than snug, then put your pulley in and jiggle the cover a bit. Then tighten your bolts you can see and access with the pulley on. Then take the pulley off and tighten the rest.
@@michalchlup6758 Yah you want the cover to float around while you install the pulley which rides along the seal. Once the pulley is in and you rotate it a couple times you can then finish tightening the cover.
Great post Cole looking forward to the next instalment, you have been a tremendous help recently with carburettor rebuilding giving confidence to take these tasks on much appreciated, Only question the green engine paint code or we're are getting from would be great
Yes I am planning to get pressure and bed in the lifters before I had it to the customer. I have a small test bench I will be running it on before I send it off. Definitely going to make some videos about it too. :-)
Hi Cole, love the channel. Any issues with using rubber gaskets on convex tappet chest covers? Mine have been leaking and I've seen convex covers should use cork ones. Or are you post 1966?
Mine in theory should have the cork gaskets but in practice I am struggling to see how they would be any better at sealing those tappet covers. They both are sandwiched down by the cover. I suppose the silicone ones might be more prone to coming unseated without the tappet cover lips? I am going to roll with these and if it becomes an issue I will swap in the cork ones.
Hey! Thanks for the kind words. I don't take on a ton of these projects as they usually are quite expensive parts and labor-wise, and take a great deal of time. That said if you want to email me with some details about your build/plans we can chat and see if it's a good fit. classicminidiy@gmail.com
Thanks for the video. Out of curiosity, where's the fuel pump on the Cooper S? I see the usual spot is not even drilled? Or you blanked it and block paint job was done afterwards?
The Cooper S used an electric SU fuel pump from the factory. The block never came with the mechanical pump and the casting was never drilled back there.
Hey Cristiano! I mention in the vid its a custom tool made by Paul and Hickey Race Engineering. I am not sure he is making them for general sale but if you want one, I would reach out to him.
As always it was a pleasure working with you on this fantastic project great to see it bolted up where it belongs top video enjoyed every minuites of it 👍
Great video - just a couple of points:
You used orange rear cover seals with pre-1966 convex covers; the orange seals are for the later concave covers - use cork gaskets for convex else they will leak oil. Also rotate the bypass hose clamps so the screws face the back, else if you ever need to change the water pump or bypass hose you won’t be able to get to the clamp screws after the engine is installed.
Cole and Paul thank you guys for all your work on my engine it is greatly appreciate helping getting my mini back on the road
Cole, those tappet chest cover early type Swan neck which you are using in this video should be using a corked type of gasket. The rubber gasket are for a later Cooper S. The difference of this 2 types of Tappet chest cover are the thickness of the metal cover. It might leaked in later stages. Cheers mate .. Julian
Another top notch episode and yes that‘s a sweet lookin’ set of rockers. Looking forward to the next instalment
Thanks for the cool video Cole! 👏😁
I hope the Mini Cooper S is soon back on the road, ready to drive. Hopefully there will be a detailed video with the owner about it then. 🤩
When I have to work on my Cooper S engine, I will consult the videos of Paul and you! Greetings from Germany. ✌😊
Cole, the oil feed to the rocker shaft on the AEG163 head flows up through the first rocker post. You show the original first rocker post at the second rocker post position, presumably because of MiniSpares rocker shaft locating screw at the second rocker post position. Did you drill the first rocker post and shaft to get the oil up to the rockers?
Great video!
Watch out for the tappet cover bolts leaking oil. It usually needs the rubber washer with that special done washer to get a good seal 👍🏻
Good tip! I will go back and add a rubber washer. Thank you!
Funny, but the first thing I noticed is that you're rocking the same green iWatch band I wear. Haha. Thanks for another great video.
Sounds like you have great taste. I am on a green kick lately. Green truck, green watch bad, green engine, greeeeeeennnn
Awesome video as always Sir!
How satisfying to watch
hi cole did you make your cam shaft bearing instal tool. you should do a seperate video on doing this part of the build..
Only just found your site, I'm very familiar with HRE and I've commented on Pauls videos many times. Back in the day I used to work at BMC Competitions in Abingdon. We'd never have called any 1275 S an original one, they were 1071 or 990 the bigger engine was introduced in 1964. Did you use the competition C-AEG 399, later standard rocker shaft along with its associated modifications and extra AEG165 locking plate. Again these modifications because standard. Why didn't you strap the centre main bearing cap? This used to be standard practice. I agree with the comment about the water pump clip screws, put them the other way round so that you can access them. Do you know what crankshaft hardening was applied to your crank, the very early ones were the best several different processes were used. Good luck with the project.
More great content. I only have one nit to pick. The hose clamps for the water pump are too big. Need a smaller size to not have so much hanging out. Thanks again.
Great video don’t forget the links Cole 😉
Silly youtube not saving my changes! :-) Thanks for the reminder.
Hi Cole, great video, thanks. You and Paul are a remarkable source of how to work with these fantastic cars. One question, do you not use gasket sealant like Permatex at all?
Thank you! I do use permatex on almost all gaskets except the oil pump and head gasket. The ones at the top of the engine I left dry until the first start up. I have had to swap out thermostats and stuff after first assembly so I don’t wanna fight with my gaskets until I’m ready to seal it up for good.
Always a quality vid. Could not tell if you bolted the timing chain cover on tight or not. You probably already know that you want it floppy lose so that the pully centers on the seal in the timing chain cover. Otherwise it will leak.
Hey yes good tip! I do exactly as you suggest on all my builds. Those pulley seals are so annoying when they leak!
So if I understand you correctly guys, the cover should be only tighten slightly, so the oil seal on the pulley can "adapt" to crank rotation? About to change it on my replacement 1275 soon :)
@@michalchlup6758 Yup tighten it up so its just a little looser than snug, then put your pulley in and jiggle the cover a bit. Then tighten your bolts you can see and access with the pulley on. Then take the pulley off and tighten the rest.
@@michalchlup6758 Yah you want the cover to float around while you install the pulley which rides along the seal. Once the pulley is in and you rotate it a couple times you can then finish tightening the cover.
Great post Cole looking forward to the next instalment, you have been a tremendous help recently with carburettor rebuilding giving confidence to take these tasks on much appreciated, Only question the green engine paint code or we're are getting from would be great
Hey Rob! Thank you. The paint I use is actually made by Moss Motors.
mossmotors.com/spray-paint-engine-dark-green
I'm so crushed. I asked my girlfriend if she wanted a vintage Fiat and she said no... she wants a classic Mini.
Great video!
From my perspective it was a win win! Can't go wrong with either of them, and they both have the added benefit of being equally unreliable! :-D
@@classicminidiy I don't know mate. Classic Fiats are remarkably unreliable...
... being into Fiats, I'm not helping my case here. 🤣
@@classicminidiy who is doing the work and paying for it...????
How will you check oil pressure on the bench? Be great to see a vid on that. Building a A series motor right now.
Yes I am planning to get pressure and bed in the lifters before I had it to the customer. I have a small test bench I will be running it on before I send it off. Definitely going to make some videos about it too. :-)
4:20 when the fun starts.
Hi Cole, love the channel. Any issues with using rubber gaskets on convex tappet chest covers? Mine have been leaking and I've seen convex covers should use cork ones. Or are you post 1966?
Mine in theory should have the cork gaskets but in practice I am struggling to see how they would be any better at sealing those tappet covers. They both are sandwiched down by the cover. I suppose the silicone ones might be more prone to coming unseated without the tappet cover lips? I am going to roll with these and if it becomes an issue I will swap in the cork ones.
Love the video, how would I reach out to you for a similar build? Would love to speak with you about it.
Thank you.
Hey! Thanks for the kind words. I don't take on a ton of these projects as they usually are quite expensive parts and labor-wise, and take a great deal of time. That said if you want to email me with some details about your build/plans we can chat and see if it's a good fit. classicminidiy@gmail.com
Thanks for the video. Out of curiosity, where's the fuel pump on the Cooper S? I see the usual spot is not even drilled? Or you blanked it and block paint job was done afterwards?
The Cooper S used an electric SU fuel pump from the factory. The block never came with the mechanical pump and the casting was never drilled back there.
Great vid. How did you dial in your camshaft please mate?
Thank you Michael! I have a video on how to do that actually.
ua-cam.com/video/XA0xrkkMTBA/v-deo.html
you had me worried for a sec that you didnt dial in the cam..
Great video.
Where did you get that tool to insert the camshaft bearings
You got a link?
Regards cristiano
Hey Cristiano! I mention in the vid its a custom tool made by Paul and Hickey Race Engineering. I am not sure he is making them for general sale but if you want one, I would reach out to him.
Thanks
Alas I'm in Italyt
Beware of Steve Gibbs CTR Racing on the eastcost as he stole and wasted my time on my 1275s build. Very sorry for the negativity ,
First
Valve chest breather is part of the spec ? part no 12A1212 ?
That’s a good question. I have seen some AEG312 with the breather unit and some with the simple upside down tube. Need to do some research.
Original ???? That's an A-plus head mate.
Nope
Clearly not an A+ head. It has the AEG163 casting number for a start and is “sculpted” on the manifold face, which the A+ heads weren’t.
Always one fool . Lol